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wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Corla Plankun posted:

There's almost certainly a childproofing device you can put on your freezer that will stop this in a much safer and less goony way.

It sounded to me like the issue was one of the child not closing the fridge/freezer entirely after getting something out rather than trying to keep them out altogether.

Keeping one out altogether is easy, ensuring the door is properly closed is harder. That's a problem I still run in to as an adult living only with other adults, especially when we've all done a grocery run recently so the fridge is packed.

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LochNessMonster
Feb 3, 2005

I need about three fitty


GigaFuzz posted:

Home Assistant can act as the zigbee controller, but you'll need to add a USB antenna (e.g. this) to the Pi. I've got both Hue and IKEA bulbs connected directly to HA. I've not tried a separate hub but I believe they'll work that way with HA as well.

Thanks, going to order one and reimage my pi. Which type of lamps do you prefer?

snickles
Mar 27, 2010

wolrah posted:

It sounded to me like the issue was one of the child not closing the fridge/freezer entirely after getting something out rather than trying to keep them out altogether.

Keeping one out altogether is easy, ensuring the door is properly closed is harder. That's a problem I still run in to as an adult living only with other adults, especially when we've all done a grocery run recently so the fridge is packed.

Yeah, unfortunately this is the case. And I think the other posters are generally right that monitoring the state of the door is the way to go. I guess I was thinking that with a temperature monitor you’d be notified but also have an idea if the food was unsafe. That’s probably not a terribly realistic goal, since the window in which you’d trip the temperature alarm and get the freezer cooled back down is so slim you’d probably just lose most of the food anyway.

GigaFuzz
Aug 10, 2009

LochNessMonster posted:

Thanks, going to order one and reimage my pi. Which type of lamps do you prefer?

I haven't really compared like-for-like. I've been wanting to pick up some bright Hue colour bulbs, but for now I've only got some basic warm white ones, and some basic color IKEA ones.

Aside from bulbs, Aqara has some stuff that works well with HA. I've got their mini switch buttons, motion sensor and door sensor. Motion or door-activated lights are so simple but make a very big difference!

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

I like using their temperature sensors to automatically turn on my ceiling fans, which are controlled by Lutron fan dimmers.

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

Just bought my first set of Twinkly Christmas lights. These are pretty rad. The mapping function is really sweet.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
Home Assistant constantly lets me know about integrations it discovered like: Apple TV, HD Home Run, my Audio Receiver, and my HP Printer.

What in the world am I missing by not having these set up? Ink alerts? A dashboard displaying what Apple TV is playing what?

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
Pretty much, depends on the integration. The main tv is a Sony smart tv, so it integrated immediately and I have play/pause/power/volume for when we’re in the kitchen and want to modify the music volume, or need to pause/power it off because of children.

The tv that got moved upstairs to upgrade the main bedroom had a shield tv which has a full fledged app remote but this is enough functionality to be minimally useful.

No I don’t know why you would want a phone notification about low toner but clearly someone does. That’s not a hard integration though, it’s just trolling snmp and reading anything public.

Slash
Apr 7, 2011

wolrah posted:

A temperature sensor would be hard to calibrate to respond reasonably quickly while also not false alarming because someone put some warm leftovers too close to it.

Not saying a temperature sensor wouldn't be neat information to have and also useful to alarm on for any variety of fridge failure, but it would definitely not be my choice for the primary "did someone leave the door open?" sensor.

Bear in mind that a Freezer is a pretty good Faraday Cage, so any wireless temp sensor that you put inside the freezer is going to have difficulty communicating.

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002
Why isn’t the obvious solution something like a door/window sensor that would beep if it’s in the on position longer than 5 minutes or so

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

BigFactory posted:

Why isn’t the obvious solution something like a door/window sensor that would beep if it’s in the on position longer than 5 minutes or so

I don't know why this isn't the only answer.

There are countless wireless door sensors that could be used for this, and most non-french door configurations could utilize a single sensor to monitor both fridge and freezer door (edit: derp, a traditional top/bottom would still need 2 sensors, maybe only a side-by-side would get away with 1 sensor).

Only issue is if the door is left cracked open then most of these sensors have enough slop where they'll make even if the door isn't fully closed. Careful placement might alleviate that, but then you'd get false triggers when the battery runs low.

Temp sensor would be a good backup to that, but a temp sensor is gong to be a nightmare to try to filter out false alarms (for the reasons others have already covered).

DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 13:57 on Nov 22, 2022

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

OP said it's in his garage where he wouldn't hear it IIRC.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

DaveSauce posted:

Careful placement might alleviate that, but then you'd get false triggers when the battery runs low.

That's not how those sensors work. There's a tiny mechanical reed switch that senses the magnet, so battery level doesn't affect the sensing range or sensitivity. You're not wrong about the slop in them, though.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

sharkytm posted:

That's not how those sensors work. There's a tiny mechanical reed switch that senses the magnet, so battery level doesn't affect the sensing range or sensitivity. You're not wrong about the slop in them, though.

I was under the impression that some were inductive. Reed switches are prone to failure with a lot of cycles, though I suppose they're probably much lower power so it makes sense for a battery powered device.

VelociBacon posted:

OP said it's in his garage where he wouldn't hear it IIRC.

I would assume that anything OP used would be integrated in to an app or some other centralized system that sent notifications?

That was my read, anyhow... if we're talking some sort of stand-alone system, then that's completely different.

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

VelociBacon posted:

OP said it's in his garage where he wouldn't hear it IIRC.

The alarm can be on a phone

Gerdalti
May 24, 2003

SPOON!
My big freezer in the basement has a door sensor as mentioned above. It works great, I get a notification on my phone if it's open for more then 5 minutes.
Standard z-wave reed sensor and home assistant.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

BigFactory posted:

The alarm can be on a phone

Ah sorry.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

BigFactory posted:

Why isn’t the obvious solution something like a door/window sensor that would beep if it’s in the on position longer than 5 minutes or so
We already suggested that:

wolrah posted:

Seems like most standard door sensors could probably be made to work for state detection, but you'd then have to have something to monitor that state and alert when it's been open for too long.

WhiteHowler posted:

I did this pretty easily with Home Assistant and Aqara door sensors.

Henrik Zetterberg posted:

Yeah I'd think you could just use some cheap Aqara ones.
At this point we were just going on about why a temperature sensor based solution would be a bad idea for this specific problem.

bobfather
Sep 20, 2001

I will analyze your nervous system for beer money
If you couldn't do a door sensor, and if a temp sensor is a dumb idea, a different dumb idea would be to hook the fridge up to a smart plug that can do power monitoring and then set an automation to notify you if the fridge's power draw is too high for too long (i.e., assuming the compressor would continuously run if a door were left open).

But honestly, door/window sensor would be best. The Zigbee sensors by Linkind on Amazon are cheap and reliable.

haveblue
Aug 15, 2005



Toilet Rascal
Maybe we're being too high-tech and the solution is to add or strengthen a spring that pushes the door shut when it's not being actively held open?

Scruff McGruff
Feb 13, 2007

Jesus, kid, you're almost a detective. All you need now is a gun, a gut, and three ex-wives.

haveblue posted:

Maybe we're being too high-tech and the solution is to add or strengthen a spring that pushes the door shut when it's not being actively held open?

I think you may be in the wrong thread.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
obviously a pneumatic actuator to automatically close the door when it stays open for too long is the answer.

You don't want the door to close on someone, so you will also need a safety mat in front of the fridge to ensure the space is clear. This must be wired to a safety controller, as well as a safety rated air dump valve.

Super simple. Could probably DIY this all for about $5k in parts.

DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Nov 22, 2022

Gerdalti
May 24, 2003

SPOON!
A real world dumb solution could be a screen door pneumatic arm. If you could figure out a way to hook it up and not interfere with access. My basement freezer is a stand up freezer with a front door. I could in theory attach a pneumatic arm to the top of the freezer and the top of the door.

I won't, because my door sensor works, but it's a neat idea. And probably would not crush a child who's rumaging for nuggets for too long.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
Eh, real talk: a passive air spring for a screen door is probably not strong enough. I dunno about anyone else, but we typically load the door up pretty good.

And the real use case here is not "door is wide open," it's "door is closed enough to not notice it's still open, but not quite fully closed." In that case, the screen door cylinder isn't going to do much of anything; they generally don't have much closing force at that point in the stroke. Plus it doesn't account for the "box of food is jamming the door open" scenario.

DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Nov 22, 2022

Guy Axlerod
Dec 29, 2008
If we're going for absurd solutions, I suggest a matched lock and key switch. Both must be captive so the key remains in the lock when the fridge is open or the switch is engaged. Set an alarm when the switch is off for more than 5 minutes. Should be good as long as the lock picking lawyer isn't your roommate.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
Anything that enhances the closing force won't help if the fridge was packed up pretty tight and something got shifted around such that the door hits it or whatever.

I've had a few times where the combination of a pizza box on a lower shelf and a two liter in the door looked like it would fit just fine but prevented the door from fully closing.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

wolrah posted:

Anything that enhances the closing force won't help if the fridge was packed up pretty tight and something got shifted around such that the door hits it or whatever.

I've had a few times where the combination of a pizza box on a lower shelf and a two liter in the door looked like it would fit just fine but prevented the door from fully closing.

So just wire up a vacuum pump that has a periodically scheduled automation to pull the pressure down a couple of PSI and compare it to a set of pressure sensors inside and outside over a period of time, then send an alert to your phone if it fails the leak down test.

haveblue
Aug 15, 2005



Toilet Rascal

wolrah posted:

Anything that enhances the closing force won't help if the fridge was packed up pretty tight and something got shifted around such that the door hits it or whatever.

Obviously this means the closing force is not enhanced enough

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Motronic posted:

So just wire up a vacuum pump that has a periodically scheduled automation to pull the pressure down a couple of PSI and compare it to a set of pressure sensors inside and outside over a period of time, then send an alert to your phone if it fails the leak down test.
Now we're talking, this is a practical and reasonable solution. It'd also help keep the door closed tightly.

haveblue posted:

Obviously this means the closing force is not enhanced enough
New automated fridge door closer:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8XdFXmSoLo

IUG
Jul 14, 2007


bobfather posted:

But honestly, door/window sensor would be best. The Zigbee sensors by Linkind on Amazon are cheap and reliable.

10 bucks a sensor is my sweet spot for window sensors. But the product page says it requires a hub. Can this be circumvented by a Pi running HA with a Zigbee adapter?

haveblue
Aug 15, 2005



Toilet Rascal

Me going for a late night snack against my dad's wishes

bobfather
Sep 20, 2001

I will analyze your nervous system for beer money

IUG posted:

10 bucks a sensor is my sweet spot for window sensors. But the product page says it requires a hub. Can this be circumvented by a Pi running HA with a Zigbee adapter?

Yup. If you get a Zigbee adapter, go big and get a Conbee II (works great with HomeAssistant). Amazon has them right now for 25% off for cyber week, which puts them at the lowest price I've ever seen for one (~$26).

Edit: Wait, nevermind. Don't get a Conbee II. This thread might have other recommendations: https://community.home-assistant.io/t/conbee-ii-and-deconz-is-there-a-better-solution/449790/7

IUG
Jul 14, 2007


I already have the Conbee II for my Pi. I just wanted to make sure that was enough for these sensors, given the CAPS LOCK WARNING about needing their hub.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

I got IKEA trådfri working across vpn using tailscale... But only if I'm on WiFi (any WiFi will do) :cripes:

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
Finished putting up Christmas lights today then spent some time tweaking the home assistant config.

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

I keep ordering more Twinkly lights because they’re cool and on sale ☹️

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
Are the twinkly lights good quality? Been looking for something better than the cheap Philips lights from target, and individually addressable is a big bonus.

Henrik Zetterberg
Dec 7, 2007

I like them. Had them on my counter while awaiting our tree. Once you map them, you can draw designs. My first one was a spurting dick. I think I posted it a page or so ago.

Just put them on the tree today and they look great. I have a single 600-light (150 foot) strand on a 9-foot tree and it looks good. It took me about 18 pictures to map all the lights, ha. It helps if you don’t bury them super deep in the tree on the bottom third.

XYZAB
Jun 29, 2003

HNNNNNGG!!
I stumbled onto a set of Axis 212 PTZ cameras and was thinking about trying to wire up a basic security cam setup with them, but it looks like Axis's monitoring software doesn't support older cameras that can't be upgraded beyond a certain firmware threshold, which these cannot be upgraded to.

Is anyone here aware of a workaround for this that uses either the standard Axis software or some other third party software that accepts a variety of camera manufacturers/models? Or should I just eWaste these and figure something else out? I'm incredibly new to this.

e: speling

Edit: Without quoting this month after the fact, I just wanted to thank you. VVVVV

XYZAB fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Jan 21, 2023

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stevewm
May 10, 2005
BlueIris is one go-to software for broad camera support. It has support for that specific camera

I've used BI for my home CCTV system for 2 years now. Quite happy with it

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