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I like the muc off ones, you can get them in pretty colours 
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Oct 28, 2022 10:11
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TobinHatesYou posted:Also those valves look pretty terrible if the product image is anything to go by. The stoppers/bungs are too small. Go get some Stan's, WTB, Terske, etc. valves, not some terrible random Amazon.com alphabet vomit product from a sleazy junk seller. I've used those exact valves for ~4 years/~5k miles of muddy gravel and terrible roads. They work just fine, no issues with the bung, clog up less than the nicer looking ones I have on my other wheelset and come in pretty colours. But yeah, mostly don't buy Amazon junk.
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Oct 28, 2022 10:25
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a loathsome bird posted:I've used those exact valves for ~4 years/~5k miles of muddy gravel and terrible roads. They work just fine, no issues with the bung, clog up less than the nicer looking ones I have on my other wheelset and come in pretty colours. But yeah, mostly don't buy Amazon junk. There's no design feature in those valves that would make them less likely to clog. At the end of the day, it's still an open bore with a constricted aperture because the Presta valve core takes up space. If you want a tubeless valve with a flow rate about as good as a Presta valve with the core removed, then pay the extra money for Reserve Fillmore valves. They're expensive, but actually worth it. They don't get clogged because the actual valve head is at the bottom. They can be disassembled and the only wear item is a replaceable o-ring that gets less chewed up than the rubber seals on a Presta valve core. Fillmore valves don't just make tubeless setup easier, they make daily/weekly tire inflation less of a chore. One stroke of the plunger will open the valve every time, unlike with a slightly clogged Presta valve that might require 2-3 strokes before enough pressure builds up in the head to open the valve.
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Oct 28, 2022 11:02
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TobinHatesYou posted:There's no design feature in those valves that would make them less likely to clog. cool. they still clog less though! TobinHatesYou posted:If you want a tubeless valve with a flow rate about as good as a Presta valve with the core removed, then pay the extra money for Reserve Fillmore valves. They're expensive, but actually worth it. They don't get clogged because the actual valve head is at the bottom. They can be disassembled and the only wear item is a replaceable o-ring that gets less chewed up than the rubber seals on a Presta valve core. Fillmore valves don't just make tubeless setup easier, they make daily/weekly tire inflation less of a chore. One stroke of the plunger will open the valve every time, unlike with a slightly clogged Presta valve that might require 2-3 strokes before enough pressure builds up in the head to open the valve. I've seen these, they look cool but $50 is a tough sell unless you really have that problem a lot (you shouldn't)
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Oct 28, 2022 12:06
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What you’re not using sealant? lol there’s your problem. Get some sealant, preferably orange seal, put a good amount in and reinflate, spin/shake the wheel around until its all sealed up.
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Oct 28, 2022 17:38
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a loathsome bird posted:cool. they still clog less though! The only reason I can think of why they might take longer to clog is because you switched from brass valves to alloy and they have a slightly larger internal diameter. That buys you time, but it’s still an open bore exposed to drippy sealant. I have that problem 0% of the time with Fillmores. I never have to remove the non-existent valve core. I never have to replace the non-existent valve core. I’ve bought packs of replacement valve cores where a non-zero number of them didn’t create an airtight seal in the valve. The whole valve is rebuildable, the bung can be replaced. It makes seating open-tubular style tires a breeze. It makes the simple act of pumping up tires feel the same every single time. I do also put in a lot of miles, so that accelerates most wear conditions on components. Anyway Fillmores are absolutely worth that one-time cost. I tried them on one wheelset and switched them all over soon after. It’s just one of those revelatory moments you have to experience for yourself…like switching to Orange Seal from Stan’s (or anything else.) Like using DynaPlugs vs using plain bacon strips/worms.
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Oct 28, 2022 23:27
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Skarsnik posted:I like the muc off ones, you can get them in pretty colours Also one of the stem caps is a valve core remover so this is the only brand I've bought lol
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Oct 29, 2022 05:27
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I'm having a problem with a DT Swiss 350 177mm fat bike rear hub. I bought a new DT Swiss 350 177mm hub with an HG free hub. I built it up into a wheel. I put it on my fatbike and it spins fine in the stand (no cassette installed). I wanted to run Shimano 12 speed on it so I bought a microspline freehub. I installed the new freehub with the new endcap. Put the wheel on my fatbike (no cassette) and when I tighten the axle the free hub binds and will not freewheel. Just as an experiment, I grabbed a spare xD freehub with its endcap, put it on the hub, again put it on the bike in the stand with no cassette. This one works fine, it will freewheel without issue. Any ideas as to what could be causing the microspline freehub to bind up? I was wondering about the spacer but the microspline freehub didn't come with a new one so I assumed they all used the same spacer.
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Oct 29, 2022 16:31
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Figured out the issue. The endcap that shipped with the freehub doesn't seem right. It made my overall hub width too wide.
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Oct 29, 2022 16:47
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:The components are all drillium'd to the point of nearly being broken. When I saw him bolt up the eeBrakes, I thought, dawg, just buy a frame. But obviously this was a challenge to himself kind of project. I assume those bars are modified from some actual Ritcheys, and were inspired by the Surly Corner Bar. But maybe he's always had some fitment need to run mtb levers. The breathtaking optimism of using epoxy to span this tubing gap: 
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Oct 30, 2022 06:29
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kimbo305 posted:When I saw him bolt up the eeBrakes, I thought, dawg, just buy a frame. But obviously this was a challenge to himself kind of project. They are not Ritchey, tons of knockoffs love the WCS logo.
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Oct 30, 2022 23:43
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He confirmed they're modified/ customized WCS.
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Oct 31, 2022 04:05
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kimbo305 posted:He confirmed they're modified/ customized WCS.  Then he is lying, because these are his bars: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803892892709.html
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Oct 31, 2022 19:25
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Pooper Hero posted:
Ha, it's my fault for seeing the WCS where it didn't exist. He said "Yes Surlv Corner Bar was the inspiration, ZNIINO then adapted the concept for a carbon fiber version with narrower angle." I thought he meant he used a ZNIINO bar first, then used the same concept to make a custom carbon bar.
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Nov 1, 2022 03:20
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I want to put a rack on my bike. I've chosen the Blackburn ex-1. It comes in two flavours normal and a disc brake version. My bike has disc brakes but has an 8 speed alfine internal hub. I should just get the normal rack right and put my fender mounts over the rack and use the same mounts?
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Nov 1, 2022 04:14
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If your bike has caliper mounted to seatstay, get disc version. If mounted.to chainstay, get normal version. If you only have one set of holes, attach fender to rack with P clamps.
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Nov 1, 2022 04:21
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Pug Smugly posted:I should just get the normal rack right and put my fender mounts over the rack and use the same mounts? That should work, as long as the new struts don't collide with the caliper or rotor.
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Nov 1, 2022 05:00
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Has anyone here ever paired an FD6800 with an FC8000? I have the chance to pick up an FC8000 with new rings for a fairly decent price (I'd be going from 172.5 mm cranks to 170 mm and it has a gen 2 4iiii precision power meter - two changes/upgrades I've been interested in for a while). Am I right in thinking I shouldn't?
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Nov 7, 2022 16:34
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Doing the slow cooker wax on a new chain. Do I have to do the MSW mineral oil/alcohol process on the new chain to get the grease off, or will dawn in an ultrasonic be sufficient?
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Nov 7, 2022 17:21
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in a well actually posted:Doing the slow cooker wax on a new chain. Do I have to do the MSW mineral oil/alcohol process on the new chain to get the grease off, or will dawn in an ultrasonic be sufficient? I use simple green in an ultrasonic cleaner, which seems to be enough(the wax stuck to the chain). For non-new chains: I've heard of some people putting their chain in a ziploc bag with simple green in it, and water in the cleaner, so you don't end up with a bunch of dirt and grease in your cleaner. I have not tried it. I personally shake my chain in a bottle with simple green to get most of the old wax/dirt off before cleaning it.
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Nov 7, 2022 23:46
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Pooper Hero posted:simple green Actually, it's probably not a big deal: https://www.velonews.com/gear/technical-qa-with-lennard-zinn-not-so-simple-green-2/ CopperHound fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Nov 8, 2022 |
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Nov 8, 2022 00:03
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CopperHound posted:Here we go again. Wait, are people complaining that their chains rusted and broke after leaving them in a water based cleaner for two weeks? I'm suggesting you shake your chain and simple green for a minute or so in a plastic container, and than ultrasonic clean for like 30 minutes(degas first if you want).
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Nov 8, 2022 00:22
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I was hearing FUD about hydrogen embrittlement, but I didn't realize people left them soaking.
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Nov 8, 2022 00:35
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Citrus degreaser aka d-limonene will work better than Simple Green anyway. -- Also for anyone stripping factory grease off new chains in an ultrasonic cleaner...it's a process. I fill the ultrasonic cleaner with plain hot water and turn the heating element on. I get a tall, round plastic food tub and stick the chain in that. Fill the tub with water until the chain is almost fully submerged. Add citrus degreaser to the tub, 5:1 water:degreaser is a good mix. Place the plastic container in the ultrasonic cleaner. Turn it on. Mine goes for up to 8 minutes at a time. Watch the solution turn cloudy. Discard the solution and refill the tub with fresh dilute degreaser. Repeat the ultrasonic cleaning process until the solution no longer gets cloudy. This might take 3-4 refills with Shimano chains... It might take 5-6 with SRAM chains. I typically do a couple chains at a time and sometimes will reuse the first couple rounds of cloudy degreaser.
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Nov 8, 2022 08:09
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My bike has index shifters, and I think they're basically worn flat. It's annoying but I can live with it. However, now my chain is skipping gears a lot on my rear (not just when hitting bumps), which is way annoying, and makes the first problem more of a problem than it otherwise would be. The cassette, chain, and cables are all less than 1 year old. The shifters are ~13 years old. Could these be related (the index not being "precise" and the dereaulier alignment being off as a result)? Or do I have some other problem?
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Nov 23, 2022 02:53
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First thing to check is generally whether the derailleur is damaged or bent. Shifters should be able to be tuned to at least not let the chain bounce to different gears.
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Nov 23, 2022 03:06
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Toe Rag posted:My bike has index shifters, and I think they're basically worn flat. It's annoying but I can live with it. However, now my chain is skipping gears a lot on my rear (not just when hitting bumps), which is way annoying, and makes the first problem more of a problem than it otherwise would be. The cassette, chain, and cables are all less than 1 year old. The shifters are ~13 years old. Could these be related (the index not being "precise" and the dereaulier alignment being off as a result)? Or do I have some other problem?
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Nov 23, 2022 03:20
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VelociBacon posted:First thing to check is generally whether the derailleur is damaged or bent. Shifters should be able to be tuned to at least not let the chain bounce to different gears. The mounting seems a little wobbly? I think this may be the problem, actually. It's wobbling around causing problems when it used to be only on bigger bumps. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_lCMPHr00o I'm going to tighten it up unless it's supposed to have some play in it? mystes posted:What have you already tried before reaching this conclusion? That the "indexes" are worn flat? I can move through the shift lever's full travel 5+ times before it finally "catches" and actually pulls on the cable. Releasing cable tension, which shifts up, is one at a time, and works fine but going the other way, which can go like 3 gears at a time, is what doesn't work. I don't necessarily know what are the interior mechanisms by which a shifter works, but I assume there is some sort of ratcheting and indexing mechanisms which would wear down or gunk up or whatever over time. These are older Shimano shifters ... according to some website, they are "Shimano Sora STI 9-speed" FWIW.
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Nov 23, 2022 06:47
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You can try basically flushing the insides of the shifters with wd40 or something similar. This can free up gunk inside and make the ratchets engage. Of course if they're worn they're worn but the wd40 trick will take only 5 minutes of your time.
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Nov 23, 2022 06:52
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Toe Rag posted:The mounting seems a little wobbly? I think this may be the problem, actually. It's wobbling around causing problems when it used to be only on bigger bumps. I've dealt with basically this exact problem on a couple of old bikes and yeah, the factory grease turns hard and makes the ratcheting mechanism skip instead of catching. It's all made of metal and you can take things apart, immerse the relevant parts in solvent then lube it.
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Nov 23, 2022 06:56
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Toe Rag posted:That the "indexes" are worn flat? I can move through the shift lever's full travel 5+ times before it finally "catches" and actually pulls on the cable. Releasing cable tension, which shifts up, is one at a time, and works fine but going the other way, which can go like 3 gears at a time, is what doesn't work. I don't necessarily know what are the interior mechanisms by which a shifter works, but I assume there is some sort of ratcheting and indexing mechanisms which would wear down or gunk up or whatever over time. These are older Shimano shifters ... according to some website, they are "Shimano Sora STI 9-speed" FWIW. If flushing doesn't work, open it up and look for a bit that looks like this. Dribble a bit of lube on the pivot and work it back and forth until it can snap back crispy under the spring tension. 
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Nov 23, 2022 07:09
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I'm trying to convert an old MTB to 1x on the cheap and I've been given (for free) a Sunrace 11-46 cassette with a crack in the smallest ring. Is that safe to ride assuming I avoid actually shifting into it? I'd be concerned that if it actually splits the rest of the cassette will come loose, but mountain bike cassettes are expensive so I'd rather not have to buy a new one.
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Nov 25, 2022 09:24
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Yeep posted:I'm trying to convert an old MTB to 1x on the cheap and I've been given (for free) a Sunrace 11-46 cassette with a crack in the smallest ring. Is that safe to ride assuming I avoid actually shifting into it? I'd be concerned that if it actually splits the rest of the cassette will come loose, but mountain bike cassettes are expensive so I'd rather not have to buy a new one. The smaller cogs all hold the bigger cogs in place until you get to the point where the cassette is pinned together. You probably won't die I guess but it'll be a miserable shifting experience especially if you're trying to index anything. Sunrace and Microshift make, like, 9-speed wide range cassettes, and Shimano came out with an 8-speed last year, so there's cheaper options available.
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Nov 25, 2022 14:32
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SimonSays posted:The smaller cogs all hold the bigger cogs in place until you get to the point where the cassette is pinned together. You probably won't die I guess but it'll be a miserable shifting experience especially if you're trying to index anything. I hadn't even thought about staying 8 speed, I've managed to find an 11 speed shifter and rear derailleur dirt cheap second hand locally, but 11-40 probably isn't enough range anyway and that seems to be the most I can get on an 8. It's a shame Sunrace don't sell just the 11t cog as that's all I'd need to use the broken cassette.
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Nov 25, 2022 15:10
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Do you have any other 11spd cassettes to see if they can donate an equal width 11t cog? Yeep posted:but 11-40 probably isn't enough range anyway You’re looking specifically to match the gearing you used to have? Could you also size down the chainring, or is that a budget issue?
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Nov 25, 2022 15:25
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Yeep posted:I'm trying to convert an old MTB to 1x on the cheap and I've been given (for free) a Sunrace 11-46 cassette with a crack in the smallest ring. Is that safe to ride assuming I avoid actually shifting into it? I'd be concerned that if it actually splits the rest of the cassette will come loose, but mountain bike cassettes are expensive so I'd rather not have to buy a new one. A sun race cassette is like £50, no? The cassette lockring should hold all the cogs in place onto the freehub directly, but yes you’ll have a problem if you shift into that smallest cog and crack it. But if you want to save money, just ride the present drivetrain maybe?
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Nov 25, 2022 16:45
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Can any of you ID this derailleur? RD-M785 sounds like a Shimano number but I'm pretty sure it isn't Shimano.  
CopperHound fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Dec 5, 2022 |
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Dec 5, 2022 01:26
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Think it’s a Microshift XCD or a ripoff of the same. https://www.hawleysbicycleworld.com/product/microshift-xcd-rear-derailleur-377384-1.htm
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Dec 5, 2022 01:43
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lol very presumptuous of them to give themselves an XT-level part number 
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Dec 5, 2022 16:32
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| # ? Jun 1, 2024 10:39 |
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Do those adapters to fit a nicer bottom bracket into a 1-piece crank frame work well? It's got this kind because it was a $130 bike https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/bottom-bracket-service-one-piece
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Dec 5, 2022 16:46
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