|
It feels like there needs to be "how to ask a question" guidance here. With things like providing year, make, model and whatever part number you just bought so we can tell you if it's just the wrong part.
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2022 02:56
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 21:34 |
|
|
Total newbie question here, buying a car for the first time in a couple decades: Buying a new 2022 Corolla LE from a local New York Toyota dealership, they're clearing out this year's models at MSRP ($20,875 MSRP + $457 installed packages + $1,095 delivery fee), so I'm biting now. I have the cash to pay it off in full right now, but the MSRP deal is contingent on me financing through them. The guy mentioned I can pay off the loan in full after making the first 3 monthly payments with no prepayment penalty. If that's all I need to do, I guess I'll do it. Anyone have experience doing this? Any major pains about doing it this way? I just need a new car since my 2002 Corolla is about to give up the ghost, so I would really like to land this particular one if I can just pay the listed price. Just feels weird applying for a fake loan in order to do them a favor.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2022 04:45
|
|
|
JazzFlight posted:Total newbie question here, buying a car for the first time in a couple decades: Literally nothing wrong with it, I’ve refinanced an auto loan three days after signing it. It’s just important to NOT TRUST A DEALER on anything. Make sure you read the writing pertaining to early payoff penalties.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2022 04:50
|
|
|
a primate posted:I think we’re getting somewhere. I just checked and the one I installed has two filaments but maybe the parts selector iPad thing steered me wrong. Can you post the part number for the bulb you bought? Or, better, show us a picture of the package? If you have a 9 volt battery and two alligator clip leads, you can poke around at the three terminals on the bulb and see if you can get each of the two different filaments inside to illuminate. Lots of different bulb designs out there, but most commonly the three terminals will be the metal cylindrical housing of the base, and two little nubs on the bottom. Try connecting one battery lead to the housing (doesn't matter which) and then tap each of the nubs on the bottom in turn. You should get a dim light from one and a bright light from the other*. If not, try connecting the wires in different combinations -- there are only six possible orientations and you can't burn the bulb out doing this. *It won't be as bright as your normal brake lights, and there may not be much difference between the filaments, because 9 volts is lower than your 12 volt electrical system and the 9 volt battery can't produce as much current as your car. But it should be enough to light it up and show that the filament isn't broken Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Nov 26, 2022 |
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2022 05:37
|
|
|
Motronic posted:It feels like there needs to be "how to ask a question" guidance here. With things like providing year, make, model and whatever part number you just bought so we can tell you if it's just the wrong part. I wouldn’t expect anyone to go that far. I was more just looking for ledes since it’s something I hadn’t encountered before. Sagebrush posted:Can you post the part number for the bulb you bought? Or, better, show us a picture of the package? Thanks, I’ll try that. I’d post more info but I was vague because I threw everything out like an idiot before confirming it worked since I did it before. I posted here because I assumed it was a more complicated issue but I’ll try verifying voltage and whether I have the right lamp installed before bothering you guys further 
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2022 05:47
|
|
|
A very useful and effective rule in auto repair -- and everything else, really -- is "if it worked before, then you changed something and now it doesn't, the thing you changed is the problem." Even if you think the thing you put in is brand new and perfectly good and you totally installed it correctly and everything. It's far more likely that the part was DOA or you hosed up than something else just coincidentally broke at the exact same moment. A related rule is "if you notice two things are broken and you fix one, don't expect that first repair to work until you fix the other thing too, no matter how unrelated they seem." That one's gotten me a bunch of times.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2022 05:57
|
|
|
It would be good if people could at minimum post year make and model. That’s pretty trivial; you should know that about your car off hand.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2022 14:06
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:A very useful and effective rule in auto repair -- and everything else, really -- is "if it worked before, then you changed something and now it doesn't, the thing you changed is the problem." Even if you think the thing you put in is brand new and perfectly good and you totally installed it correctly and everything. It's far more likely that the part was DOA or you hosed up than something else just coincidentally broke at the exact same moment... Textbook example: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3812091
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2022 14:59
|
|
|
I got a 2012 TSX wagon with some vibration in the steering wheel, particularly while turning. I had a similar issue about 4k miles ago, and got the front axles replaced, which seemed to help. But either it’s returned or this is a new issue. The only cause I can think of is hitting the bump stops real hard the other day going over some deceptively rough road under construction. It tracks straight and the actual steering ability isn’t hampered, but the feel is off. I notice it at low and high speeds. There’s no obvious noise of a bad wheel bearing. I don’t feel the vibration or anything wrong when turning the wheel while stopped. What else can I try to narrow this down? I have a tire balancing and rotation appointment for next week to hopefully narrow that down.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2022 17:43
|
|
|
Very step 1, but since it was apart less than 4k miles ago check your lug nuts. If those are fine you can swap front and rear wheels to see if the vibration follows one or both fronts.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2022 17:48
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:A very useful and effective rule in auto repair -- and everything else, really -- is "if it worked before, then you changed something and now it doesn't, the thing you changed is the problem." Even if you think the thing you put in is brand new and perfectly good and you totally installed it correctly and everything. It's far more likely that the part was DOA or you hosed up than something else just coincidentally broke at the exact same moment. I normally agree because 99.99% of the time this is true but I just had the opposite happen to me last night. My cigarette lighter adapter stopped charging my phone right after I clobbered it with my instrument cluster getting it out of the truck. I mean RIGHT after. Tonight I went to troubleshoot it, and there was 14 volts at the center pin with my meter, ground was fine... But nothing worked in it. I ended up tracking it down to corrosion on the fuse contacts in the fuse panel because both test points in the top of the fuse dropped to 4 volts under load when I plugged the adapter in. It was just dumb luck that the crusty terminals in the fuse panel stopped working exactly when I bashed into the adapter so hard it made a cracking noise. Edit: also yes people should list the make model year and ideally engine and transmission their car has when asking questions, but people forget all the time and nothing is going to change human nature.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2022 19:42
|
|
|
kastein posted:I normally agree because 99.99% of the time this is true but I just had the opposite happen to me last night. My cigarette lighter adapter stopped charging my phone right after I clobbered it with my instrument cluster getting it out of the truck. I mean RIGHT after. Tonight I went to troubleshoot it, and there was 14 volts at the center pin with my meter, ground was fine... But nothing worked in it. I ended up tracking it down to corrosion on the fuse contacts in the fuse panel because both test points in the top of the fuse dropped to 4 volts under load when I plugged the adapter in. It was just dumb luck that the crusty terminals in the fuse panel stopped working exactly when I bashed into the adapter so hard it made a cracking noise. Ah, this leads us to the third rule: if you're absolutely, positively sure that the problem is this one specific thing, it isn't that. Go to your second place candidate and fix that instead. I had a combination of rules two and three just recently while working on my motorcycle. It had been sitting for quite a while, on a battery tender, and when I went to ride it recently it wouldn't rev above about 3,000. Obviously a fueling problem then right? I opened up the carburetors and they didn't look too bad, but there was some brown gunk in some of the passages so I flushed them out and cleaned all the jets and everything. Put it back together and went to tune it. Noticed that the headlight wouldn't come on, but shrugged and figured oh, must just be some corrosion in the contacts of the switch from sitting around, right? After all it's been on a battery tender. It was impossible to tune. Couldn't get it running smoothly even at an idle, and absolutely would not rev above 3,000. But it can't be an electrical problem, right? After all it does light off and run, so there is spark, right? Nope, rule 3 says if I'm sure it's fuel, try the electrical system instead. And rule 2 says don't expect your fuel system repairs to work until you've fixed whatever is happening with the headlight, even though you're sure that can't be the problem. Plug the bike into the charger and start it up while it's connected to the wall. Lights off instantly, revs powerfully and smoothly all the way to redline. Welp, guess it is the battery. But how can this be? It's been on a tender the entire time and the tender's light has always been green! Stick it on a multimeter. 12.3 volts with the bike off. Kind of low but okay. Turn the ignition on and it drops to 9 volts, lol. Flip the headlight switch and it drops down to like 4. Lmao. Pull the battery out and shake it around a bit: the electrolyte is essentially completely evaporated. It'll still hit the full voltage on a charger, but it has 0.01% of its original capacity. End result: I'm loving done with flooded cells. Spent the extra 50 bucks to buy a high quality AGM replacement instead of the "OEM" 1860s technology the bike calls for. Everything is fine. Anyway these are the rules. I don't think they've ever steered me wrong Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Nov 26, 2022 |
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2022 22:09
|
|
|
There's good advice in all of this, but in general for most people it's whatever you touched last. Right until it isn't and then we all get to talk about our anecdotes. And that's what they are. I just repaired a leaky air strut that took out the air pump as well (pretty common for everything/anything using a wabco suspension air pump - they don't have anywhere close to a 100% duty cycle so when anything starts leaking for a while you end up needing to replace the piston ring). But for some reason the pump was still running a LOT. It would satisfy eventually on a cold start, but if I turned the truck off for 30 minutes or so and back on again it would have to run for several minutes again - after there were absolutely no suspension leaks anymore. So you'd figure I screwed something up taking the pump out and back in again. Nope. Ridiculous timing of it sitting around for a while and fall/getting cold out when the mice are trying to get inside/find new homes:  That's the air line in the wayback under where the spare and accumulator/storage tank is at. A mouse got under there, built a nest by the spare tire and for some reason thought plastic blue line was tasty and nibbled on it until it jusssst started leaking and probably got scared off by that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2022 22:31
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Very step 1, but since it was apart less than 4k miles ago check your lug nuts. Lug nuts are good and tight on the 2012 TSX wagon. Also checked the codes with my OBD scanner and came up clean. I took it for another drive this afternoon, and I noticed the steering wheel vibration more at 15-30mph than 60 and above. I’m wondering if it’s the power steering, which is electric in these cars. There was a recall on it a while back which I got fixed at the dealer. any ways to test the power steering on these things? I also have a balancing scheduled at costco to rule that out Head Bee Guy fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Nov 27, 2022 |
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 00:49
|
|
|
Balancing at something like Cosco would not really rule that out. Go do that, but if the symptoms persist swap front and rear wheels. It's really something you need to be doing before chasing ghosts.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 01:42
|
|
|
Scrree posted:girlfriends toyota's got poo poo brakes Update: it took a while because our cat nearly died; but I 'did it for her'.    It was not nearly a scary as I had first feared. Also, I'll definitely get back under there and replace all of the rotors sooner than later because I'm not an expert but those look like poo poo???
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 03:20
|
|
|
Motronic posted:It feels like there needs to be "how to ask a question" guidance here. With things like providing year, make, model and whatever part number you just bought so we can tell you if it's just the wrong part. Hell give us your VIN if you want. I love being a VIN creeper to find out the trim level, paint code and other goodies if it's a make that includes it in the code. There were also good old days where there were some wonderful forums including here where you could  the CarFax / Autocheck for free.99 but it appears those days are gone. If anyone has a source for that still please hmu.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 03:44
|
|
|
Scrree posted:Update: it took a while because our cat nearly died; but I 'did it for her'. I...would not have put new pads on rotors looking like that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 03:50
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:And since this is the stupid question thread, I would tell the newbies that generally the good names in portable power tools are So Milwaukee, Ryobi, Ridgid (AEG) and... HART... are all made by the same company (TTI Group). Obviously each is built a bit differently (Milwaukee being their highest end brand, Ridgid below that, Ryobi lower, HART being the lowest end), but HART isn't horrible for homeowner use - I'd put them above most of Harbor Freight's stuff (but you'll have an easier time exchanging dead stuff at HF). Reviews are decent for the price point. That said, there's a big difference between impact driver and impact wrench; the kit posted earlier had an impact driver, which is meant for screws. Tom Guycot posted:I'm thinking about getting those drop in led bulb replacements, hopefully to not have to worry as much about bulbs burning out again, but they're pricey so I wanted to see if anyone had any experience with them. Are they worth doing, is there a catch to them, do they actually suck and I shouldn't get them, what brands are good, which are poo poo, etc but mostly just are there some big red flags I'm missing as I'm not really a car person? Also since the high beams are still fine, can I leave them in and have a mix of the led and halogens, or if I'm replacing the lows with led do I also need to replace the highs? With the price of the LEDs if I don't have to buy another 2 all the better. Get name brand halogens from Rockauto or Amazon (they're stupid expensive everywhere else; just a cheap Phillips or Sylvania will work fine), swap all 4 since the ones that came with your new housings were crap. LEDs aren't there yet for drop in use. Sometimes they work well, sometimes they blind the hell out of everyone. It depends on the bulb and the reflector/projector design, but often they wind up scattering all over the place. FWIW, this is the beam pattern when used in my car (Ford Crown Victoria) - there's a good bit of scatter compared to the halogen bulbs, it's obvious there's multiple LEDs being used by the bulb. Camera shutter speed is cranked way up to see the pattern and scatter. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 04:08
|
|
|
Scrree posted:Update: it took a while because our cat nearly died; but I 'did it for her'. If the contact face is clean, there isn't a huge deep ridge around the perimeter, and running the edge of a fingernail from the inside out doesn't catch on any grooves, then they're good to go
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 05:07
|
|
|
2007 Toyota Camry Rear passenger door triggering ajar sensor when latched. If we lean on the door, it will close the gap enough that the fob will lock the door as normal. Otherwise the car does a really annoying extended beep. Likely cause: The rear seat has handles to access the trunk from inside. The handles hang off an elastic string. The one by this door kept getting pulled out (kids) and caught between the door and the frame. So the door was latching over this bulky rear end thing and it probably misaligned something. Her mechanic, who I don't care for, couldn't be bothered to look at it. Thoughts? Thanks in advance.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 12:17
|
|
|
erosion posted:Rear passenger door triggering ajar sensor when latched. I would start by finding the sensor and making sure it's clean, clear and properly seated, see if that does it, and depending on the design/type of sensor you might be able to mess with it to make it work with the door as it is Beyond that it's probably then playing with the fit of the door so it closes enough and that's a lot easier with someone to manipulate the door and someone else to tighten/loosen bolts as needed I wouldn't care for that mechanic either
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 12:32
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:A very useful and effective rule in auto repair -- and everything else, really -- is "if it worked before, then you changed something and now it doesn't, the thing you changed is the problem." Even if you think the thing you put in is brand new and perfectly good and you totally installed it correctly and everything. It's far more likely that the part was DOA or you hosed up than something else just coincidentally broke at the exact same moment. Yea it’s probably just the wrong bulb. I appreciate the advice - reminds me of the saying “if you hear hoofs, think horses not zebras”. I’m getting a lot of heat for not posting the make and model, so I apologize. It’s a 2011 KIA Forte 4dr.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 16:17
|
|
|
I'm debating a heads / cam / intake upgrade on an LS with about 80k miles. Anyone have a good "while I'm in there" list of other things I should consider? Timing set and oil pump are on my radar now (though the pump looks like it may be a pain) but I'm open to whatever else makes sense. Lifters and pushords too?
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 17:00
|
|
|
DesperateDan posted:I would start by finding the sensor and making sure it's clean, clear and properly seated, see if that does it, and depending on the design/type of sensor you might be able to mess with it to make it work with the door as it is Thanks for the reply! The sensor is this ridiculous rubber button on a spring. I played a little bit with sticking something to the door opposite the sensor but didn't have much luck. I did find a video about adjusting the bolts on the door, so I might try that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 17:38
|
|
|
Try replacing the switch first. Aligning a door and striker is a massive pain in the rear end, the switch is all of $20 at most parts stores. Since the door wasn't fully closing because of that strap, there's a very good chance the switch contacts are worn out from barely making contact a lot of the time. The part you're looking for is "door jamb switch". It's 1 screw with a plug on the back (don't let the wire drop inside, you'll be hating life when you try to fish it back out). It's all of 5 minutes to swap. WTFBEES posted:I'm debating a heads / cam / intake upgrade on an LS with about 80k miles. Anyone have a good "while I'm in there" list of other things I should consider? Timing set and oil pump are on my radar now (though the pump looks like it may be a pain) but I'm open to whatever else makes sense. Lifters and pushords too? I would do lifters for sure, pushrods as a "should". Check with the cam manufacturer to see if they recommend different rockers or valve springs; depending on lift they might recommend one or both.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 20:29
|
|
|
If the switch is electrically functional and it does turn out to be door misalignment that's just preventing it from getting fully pressed, a stupid quick hack is just to glue an extra millimeter or two of rubber or leather onto the switch plunger/lever. Cut it off an old shoe. You might even be able to just build up the area with a hot glue gun. It costs nothing and takes a few minutes and will probably last the rest of the lifetime of the car.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 20:39
|
|
|
JazzFlight posted:Total newbie question here, buying a car for the first time in a couple decades: There is a car buying thread that would be more helpful when talking about financing. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538&pagenumber=1&perpage=40
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 20:42
|
|
|
WTFBEES posted:I'm debating a heads / cam / intake upgrade on an LS with about 80k miles. Anyone have a good "while I'm in there" list of other things I should consider? Timing set and oil pump are on my radar now (though the pump looks like it may be a pain) but I'm open to whatever else makes sense. Lifters and pushords too? always new lifters to go with a new cam. it's less important with rollers like the LS has, but it's cheap insurance / peace of mind. always check pushrod length when you do heads or head gasket or deck the block or heads. if the existing length checks out, i would roll each pushrod on glass to make sure it's straight, then make a judgement call on whether you want to replace em or not. again this seems like cheap insurance, but there's a lot less that can go wrong with a pushrod than a lifter.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 21:19
|
|
|
I have a negative battery node that has mushroomed just enough to keep the clamp from coming off: Can I just chisel/hammer it back into shape? I don't have a good file to use on it, but this is an OEM 2017 Prius battery that will probably work fine for a couple more months - it had a low CCA reading but hasn't given me any trouble yet, so I can always go out and pick up another tool. Baby Proof fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Nov 27, 2022 |
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 21:57
|
|
|
That doesn't look that deformed. Is the connector clamp the split type? Can you just take the bolt out entirely, use a big flat screwdriver to wedge the clamp open a little more than usual, and pull it off? Also you need to post the image url, not the album page url. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Nov 27, 2022 |
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 22:01
|
|
|
OK, I'll try prying a bit harder Edit: Yeah, there was just a little ridge at the top, not nearly enough to explain why I would have a problem getting the terminal off. Baby Proof fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Nov 27, 2022 |
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 22:13
|
|
|
WTFBEES posted:I'm debating a heads / cam / intake upgrade on an LS with about 80k miles. Anyone have a good "while I'm in there" list of other things I should consider? Timing set and oil pump are on my radar now (though the pump looks like it may be a pain) but I'm open to whatever else makes sense. Lifters and pushords too? If this is going to be an engine out upgrade, and not just leaving it in the car (or truck, whatever) I'd probably consider the oil pan gasket, front and rear main seals, and maybe cam bearings? E: someone smarter than me can probably say, is a new cam grounds for new cam bearings, or is it fine as long as they are within spec? wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Nov 27, 2022 |
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 22:44
|
|
|
Hi! I did a dumb thing and bought a 68 barracuda from an online auction in illinois. 318, automatic. It looked nice in the pics. Predictably though, it's a mess. But i expected that, so I'm fine with it. So far, anyway. My plan is to get it driving without blowing my entire budget. Problem being is that it hasn't been driven for what i assume to be a long loving time. I don't know any of the history for this car, but based on overall condition i figure it's been sitting.. It starts and idles well, and the transmission moves forward and backward well enough. So i'm going to focus on the brakes first.. And yuck.. Manual drums, all rusty. The back seem to work ok, though. I pulled off the drums to inspect and hose down with brake cleaner. Nothing leaking, not stuck, seems ok for now. The front are less okay. Passenger side turns well enough, driver side is locked up. I snuck the brake cleaner straw inside it enough to spray cleaner in there, which helped a little. It moves a bit more, but after going forward and backwards a few times i just managed to make brake fluid leak out from the master cylinder cap. I haven't taken the front drums off yet, i kinda figure why bother. Part of my plan here is to swap them out for a disc brake kit, as pretty much everything under the car is old as hell. Brake lines are crusty and rotten, every bushing is junk. I figure rebuilding the drums would be halfway to a disc brake kit, so i might as well just do that. This is all new and overwhelming, honestly, and it's complicated by the stupid 5x4 14" wheels this car has. I want to upgrade it to 15" 5x4.5 wheels, but i want to keep the rear drums for now. So, could i get away with using a wheel adaptor on the back with 5x4.5 wheels, and just get a 5x4.5 disc kit for the front? I'd rather save the cash id have to spend upgrading the rear on all the other crap this car needs for now. Im looking at the pirate jack kit, i've heard good things: https://piratejack.net/dbk6272a-45lx-mpdc-201-1962-1972-a-body-power-disc-brake-conversion-kit-5x4-5-bolt-pattern-drilled-slotted-rotors/ and if ya wanna see the pile i bought: https://sullivanauctioneers.proxibid.com/asp/LotDetail.asp?lid=72056602#topoflot I might start a thread, but i'm terrible at updating 
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2022 22:58
|
|
|
Nice fuckin' ride! Biggest issue with Chryslers of this vintage is rust, especially in the rockers and lower front & rear quarters. I have no advice on a disc conversion beyond that it's a known done thing without issue. All my rides have drums & I am comfortable working on them. I have worked on tons of '60s & 70's mopar so shout if you have any other questions or issues
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2022 00:27
|
|
|
thanks! yeah it's got rust in all those areas. someone slapped some bondo on it and gave it a questionable paint job a while back.. both rear quarters, both rockers, driver and passenger floors are very rusty, and the passenger side was wrecked at some point. but overall it's very complete, runs ok, interior is solid and i don't think i overpaid.. much.. i think. but it looks good from 10 feet I keep goin in circles about where to start and what should be a priority and what i should upgrade. It's been a long time since i drove a car with drums, maybe i should just fix them and save the money? The big goal is to drive it reliably in heavy city traffic and highway cruising, which is why i feel discs are a good idea. Also id like it to do sick burnouts The 5x4 bolt pattern is really ruining my day, though. Now im digging through marketplace and cl looking for an a body 8.25 rear end... im pretty confident i can do most of the repairs i need to do to this beast, but the axle has me worried. it looks heavy  Which just leads me back to keeping my axle and buying the conversion 5x4.5 shafts from dr diff (https://www.doctordiff.com/axle-pkg-stock-length-mopar-5x4-1-2-bolt-pattern-pair.html) which dont work with my drums so i have to buy new brake hardware which means $$$ and now im out of bourbon damnit
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2022 00:53
|
|
|
Baby Proof posted:OK, I'll try prying a bit harder There are actual battery terminal pullers. This is the kind of situation where you would want to use one. https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-2...69597007&sr=8-1 The parts store should have one and will swap your battery for you if you buy a new one there.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2022 01:58
|
|
|
WTFBEES posted:I'm debating a heads / cam / intake upgrade on an LS with about 80k miles. Anyone have a good "while I'm in there" list of other things I should consider? Timing set and oil pump are on my radar now (though the pump looks like it may be a pain) but I'm open to whatever else makes sense. Lifters and pushords too? Lifters are a good idea but from what I've seen in various places, the one good lifter (GM LS7) has had terrible availability. Pushrods I would leave unless you have a specific reason to need to replace them. They only wear if there's an oiling problem, and most combos don't need different lengths or stronger than stock. Oil pump I would be 50/50 on, that's not a huge amount of miles and I think it was mostly the very early LS1 pumps that were problematic. It would be a lot more work.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2022 03:23
|
|
|
hedgegnome posted:Hi! I did a dumb thing and bought a 68 barracuda from an online auction in illinois. 318, automatic. It looked nice in the pics. Predictably though, it's a mess. But i expected that, so I'm fine with it. So far, anyway. My plan is to get it driving without blowing my entire budget. Problem being is that it hasn't been driven for what i assume to be a long loving time. I don't know any of the history for this car, but based on overall condition i figure it's been sitting.. It starts and idles well, and the transmission moves forward and backward well enough. So i'm going to focus on the brakes first.. Please be very careful about brake dust on that, being as old as it is, high chance of asbestos. It should be done outside and after soaking the whole brake system down with water ideally.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2022 19:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 21:34 |
|
|
So I done gone hosed up and totally stripped the spark plug threads in a small engine (honda CT90). I cross threaded it and just kept tightening it like a total moron until it started getting loose again. Is there anything I can do to save it, or do I need to buy a new head?
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2022 01:06
|
|
