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Indolent Bastard posted:Where is that badger from? Badgers a 3dprint from goonmaster on Patreon. They do a ton of redwall/wind in the Willows style miniatures. Big recommend from me (and I sell the prints if you don't have a printer) E:shamefully snipe - any updates on how the new army painter speedpaint on how it's handelling reactivation. Loving my current method of drybrushing over black and tinting with it, wondering if I grab the line when it comes out or go with the new vallejo
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Nov 28, 2022 06:17
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SkyeAuroline posted:Still have to do the base indicators, but I guess these guys are otherwise done. I genuinely feel like I'm doing a worse job the more of these I paint. Can't shake it.
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Nov 28, 2022 06:24
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SkyeAuroline posted:Still have to do the base indicators, but I guess these guys are otherwise done. I genuinely feel like I'm doing a worse job the more of these I paint. Can't shake it. I think, and this is only an opinion, that what you're feeling is a lack of contrast. When I've painted things similar to batlemechs, I've gone all in on having actual black dividing areas of solid color. Given your issues with the wet palette, I'm going to suggest priming black and drybrushing up from that. What I do is prime black, and then do three passes of drybrushing. One a darker shade than the final color I want, the final color I want, and then a lighter shade. A last highlight of almost white is optional, but sometimes crucial. You want to manage your layers of drybrushing so you send up with black borders, your shade color, your primary color, and the highlight for that, plus optional edge highlighting. That's my basic technique for a wargaming-quality model, with practice they'll look good on close examination but great on the table en masse. With more subtle shading and highlighting passes you can get character-quality models with this technique. e. Just to be complete... "Dry" brush technique means exactly that. It is not figurative in any way. You want a brush with pigment on it that is in no way moist. Pick up some paint, knock the excess off on a good paper towel, which will also wick the moisture out of the pigment, leaving you with... a dry brush loaded with pigment. This can work for characters but is awesome for doing units since the drybrushed paint dries enough for another layer in a lighter shade really fast. mllaneza fucked around with this message at 09:48 on Nov 28, 2022 |
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Nov 28, 2022 09:37
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Primers are here! gonna paint up the measuring tools tonight and post the results, will paint the minis once the rest of the paints and washes arrive 
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Nov 28, 2022 10:29
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My Spirit Otter posted:Got the body and troops of a field ordnance battery painted up. I really love these units. Not too happy with the sergeanta face, please send help. As always, it’s about increasing the contrast to bring out the details. You have great highlighting on the cloth, but the face looks a bit monotone. I would wash it all over which will darken the eye sockets etc, then beginning with the current base colour, start painting up the highlights, going lighter progressively, finishing around the cheekbones, nose, chin. The mini looks great though. I’m only commenting because you asked. It would be fantastic to see them with a higher depth of field so the whole group were in focus in one shot.
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Nov 28, 2022 11:05
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Just realized I forgot to post this:     Mini from Epics 'n Stuffs, which MollyMetroid can sell. The sprite and faerie dragon are old reaper bones minis, the only things I had small enough to fit, the whole thing's about the size of a softball. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-world-turtle-miniature-model-109059
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Nov 28, 2022 13:53
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oh poo poo I just remembered, the green stuff I ordered also arrived with the Primer! There's been something I've been meaning to ask, one of the orks I'm planning to build is Guile from Street fighter, how do you guys reccomend I achieve the spread out flat top hair? do I first add a cylinder of green stuff to the ork as a base, then flip him upside down on a flat surface, then add green stuff for the rest of the hair? will the green stuff accidentally solidy and get stuck to the surface? any ideas what I could do to nail the look? in case any of you dont know this is guile's hair:-  another character I am planning to add is Heihachi mishima from Tekken, I think this one will be straight forward, just two spikes of hair and a mustache, I might actually add flared karate pants to the ork to really add to the look:-  also, now I can make the full hair, metal hat plate and stuff for my terry bogard nob! super excited!
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Nov 28, 2022 13:55
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I've been painting a lot of muted stuff for age of sigmar lately, but I do have a brightly colored necron theme.
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Nov 28, 2022 13:57
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Siivola posted:I think you've been doing very consistently good work here! Any particular thing getting to you, or are the equipment issues just sucking the fun out? Largely equipment issues. Brush won't keep a point enough for me to do any extra detailing if I wanted to, and frequently ends up with me painting into recesses I'm trying to paint alongside instead because it splits mid stroke. Paint's thin enough that the only options are "4+ coats in one place for visibly thick paint right next to paint so thin you can see the black primer through it" or "universally thick paint obscuring details". Still continues to be no substitute for Nuln Oil Gloss, so washes gently caress up a lot of detail and need even more coats to cover the grey stains it leaves behind (since unlike Nuln Oil Gloss, none of the other black washes I have actually flow at all, they just sit on the raised surfaces). The entire process is just fighting with tools that used to work perfectly for me, or replacements for tools that stopped working that are themselves even worse. The first four were much less of a struggle. No room on these models to actually do anything interesting, unlike the first lance that at least had enough glass to do decent effects, either, which doesn't help the feeling. Re: drybrushing, I'll consider it but it rarely ends up with a result I'd like. Especially trying to work from bare primer given how many hard to reach recesses these models have that interfere with both a consistent primer coat and when trying to reach with a brush (pre-assembled models were a mistake, no exceptions).
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Nov 28, 2022 14:48
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Al-Saqr posted:oh poo poo I just remembered, the green stuff I ordered also arrived with the Primer! I cant be too much help here (I am categorically dogshit at sculpting tbh, and rarely try anything more ambitious than gap filling, press molds or at a push making some basing gribbles) but I can at least tell you; If you dont want greenstuff to stick to something, wet that something. This goes for fingers, modelling tools, whatever. You can also use vaseline or vegetable oil to stop green stuff sticking, but by and large water will do. You might want to make that flat surface a piece of glass (I have a cheap pack of little mirrors from a craft store for when I'm working with greenstuff) as greenstuff doesnt really stick well to glass when it dries so you can peel it off easy enough. If I was going to try guiles hair, I'd make the rough shape of it with my fingers, press it down onto the glass to get the flat top, refine the rough shape to make it less rough, probably smoothing it out with a wax shaper/silicone brush/modelling tool dipped in water. Then I'd press the ork head into it (ideally the head wouldnt be on a body yet, but not the end of the world if it is) to attach it. Then after a while when its more cured I'd carve hair strands in to the shape with a knife or other sharp/pointed tool, while its still on the mirror attached to the head (which is obviously upside down), then detach it and sculpt the top somehow. Probably just pulling the tip of a pin through it to get lines or pressing it into something with texture? But again, thats what I would do and I suck at sculpting, if someone else has a different idea, do that instead.
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Nov 28, 2022 17:44
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  The yeti explains, once more, even more exasperatedly, that he is a sovereign citizen and not subject to your laws, and demands to know if he is being detained. Mini by GoonMaster Games: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-yeti-1-129714
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Nov 29, 2022 01:31
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Just in case anyone missed it, the guy who made a scale diorama of Mel Gibson being arrested has just released his new diorama, a recreation of Gene LeBell judo throwing Steven Seagal after being karate chopped in the dick. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3aCMTpJx2cs Grizzled Patriarch fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Nov 29, 2022 |
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Nov 29, 2022 06:18
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Just in case anyone missed it, the guy who made a scale diorama of Mel Gibson being arrested has just released his new diorama, a recreation of Gene LeBell clotheslining Steven Seagal after being karate chopped in the dick. This is so awesome Although I take issue with his depiction of Segal it should be a spherical orb of flesh and goatee lol
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Nov 29, 2022 06:21
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Al-Saqr posted:This is so awesome The effort and production value that goes into his videos is insane lol. There's a nice twist at the end too.
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Nov 29, 2022 06:33
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SkyeAuroline posted:hard to reach recesses these models have that interfere with both a consistent primer coat and when trying to reach with a brush Yeah, you want to drybrush those. Get yourself a roll of nicely textured and absorbent paper towels and go to town. Remember, three layers - shading, base, and highlight. mllaneza fucked around with this message at 06:56 on Nov 29, 2022 |
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Nov 29, 2022 06:50
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In case any one else tries it....chrome spraypaint works on mini. However paint doesn't easily stick to the chrome-looking paint unless you put some effort into it. I'll have to find some other silver spraypaint or actually give my airbrush another go
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Nov 29, 2022 07:21
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:The effort and production value that goes into his videos is insane lol. There's a nice twist at the end too. Just watched the video, absolutely incredible, just an amazing and funny watch all around love the grizzled insane person voice, it's very appropriate. Anybody who paints and builds miniatures should have a husky Irish murderers voice like he's talking to a tied up victim lol Al-Saqr fucked around with this message at 08:07 on Nov 29, 2022 |
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Nov 29, 2022 07:58
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GreenBuckanneer posted:In case any one else tries it....chrome spraypaint works on mini. However paint doesn't easily stick to the chrome-looking paint unless you put some effort into it. I'll have to find some other silver spraypaint or actually give my airbrush another go Tried a matte varnish? You'll have to gloss varnish the metal later.
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Nov 29, 2022 08:09
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So how do you know when your oil paint is cured enough to varnish safely?  Brown mouse is acrylic the wet ones are oil. I used similar palettes (zorn, basically) but the acrylics were VMC so didn't mix great. I took a pic that didn't even show off the awesome wood in the shields for the oils. Oils are way nicer to paint minis with. those rats are the result of a couple multi-hour session. The army list I roughed out currently has 40 Rat warriors.
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Nov 29, 2022 09:15
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hey guys, what's the difference between 'contrast' and 'Color washes'? I just realized none of the paints and washes sets I got contain something called a 'contrast paint', is it necessary? A lot of videos are mentioning stuff like ‘Nuln oil contrast’. I ordered a bunch of paints and dont really want to order any more, are they essential to painting mini's well? If they are essential what’s the most versatile few pots I can get? Al-Saqr fucked around with this message at 12:01 on Nov 29, 2022 |
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Nov 29, 2022 11:56
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Jonny Nox posted:So how do you know when your oil paint is cured enough to varnish safely? These are gorgeous! I goddamn love ratmen. I must build some more of those Skaven I have in a box. I only know oil paints from painting on canvases and when you do that, they take a week or two to dry so you can safely touch them.
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Nov 29, 2022 12:26
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Al-Saqr posted:hey guys, what's the difference between 'contrast' and 'Color washes'? I just realized none of the paints and washes sets I got contain something called a 'contrast paint', is it necessary? A lot of videos are mentioning stuff like ‘Nuln oil contrast’. I ordered a bunch of paints and dont really want to order any more, are they essential to painting mini's well? A contrast paint is like a regular paint but it flows into and shades the recesses without any need for any other stuff, so you can use it as a base colour and it'll also do the shading for you. They're useful, especially for batch painting, but not necessary, and better on stuff with a lot of recesses and surface detail. A wash just goes into the recesses only, so it's just for shading, it won't stain the raised areas of a model (too much at least, it's a good idea to touch up with your base colour after). This goes into extra detail, if it helps. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRMD86LWN9Q
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Nov 29, 2022 12:28
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Al-Saqr posted:hey guys, what's the difference between 'contrast' and 'Color washes'? I just realized none of the paints and washes sets I got contain something called a 'contrast paint', is it necessary? A lot of videos are mentioning stuff like ‘Nuln oil contrast’. I ordered a bunch of paints and dont really want to order any more, are they essential to painting mini's well? Contrast Paints are a Games Workshop line of paints designed for a particular technique where you apply one coat over a greyscale base that leaves distinct highlights and shadows. They're not necessary to paint well. A lot of people like them, though. Some other companies like Army Painter and Vallejo have their own lines that do this but I guess the phrase is trademarked or something because they don't call them contrast paints. Color washes are somewhat similar, you apply them over a painted model and they sink into recesses creating shadows. They're not necessary to paint well either, although they've been popular for quite a while.
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Nov 29, 2022 12:37
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Thanks for the input, I think with the colors and washes I got I'm fine with what I have, I'll look into contrasts in the future, it's not something I feel I NEED to have now. I'm about to try my first few paint jobs this weekend mostly on terrain and and measurers. So let me get this straight, if I want to prime my characters with rattle cans and I want a dark gritty feel for the characters, I base prime in black, then after it dries I spritz once very lightly the matte grey for the light direction, and if I want a lighter color character I prime with grey then spritz once with white?
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Nov 29, 2022 12:43
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Al-Saqr posted:I'm about to try my first few paint jobs this weekend mostly on terrain and and measurers.
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Nov 29, 2022 12:59
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Al-Saqr posted:So let me get this straight, if I want to prime my characters with rattle cans and I want a dark gritty feel for the characters, I base prime in black, then after it dries I spritz once very lightly the matte grey for the light direction, and if I want a lighter color character I prime with grey then spritz once with white? You don't have to do that at all but it does help for visualising where shadows/darker areas will naturally fall. I often prime white then give the figure a black wash for a similar effect, with the added benefit that it brings out detail that can be hard to see when primed in one flat color. If you're priming black, you may need to add a second, lighter base coat if you're painting lighter colors. I like to prime or basecoat brown for yellow, red, gold, or weathered/rusty silver.
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Nov 29, 2022 13:05
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:You don't have to do that at all but it does help for visualising where shadows/darker areas will naturally fall. I often prime white then give the figure a black wash for a similar effect, with the added benefit that it brings out detail that can be hard to see when primed in one flat color. If you're priming black, you may need to add a second, lighter base coat if you're painting lighter colors. I like to prime or basecoat brown for yellow, red, gold, or weathered/rusty silver. oh so I can get the same effect if I just prime it grey then give it a wash once over with black wash? does placing wash strokes matter for light direction?
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Nov 29, 2022 14:16
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Al-Saqr posted:oh so I can get the same effect if I just prime it grey then give it a wash once over with black wash? does placing wash strokes matter for light direction? What you described with the rattlecans is zenithal priming, it results in slightly lighter colors in the direction of the main light source (represented by the lighter spray direction) and darker opposite that. A light prime with a wash will result in slightly darker colors wherever the wash settles, but will be the same tone all over the miniature - it doesn't represent a light direction. Both rely on your top coats being at least a little transparent, and you might find that the end result isn't all that noticeable. The good thing about zenithal priming (and even just priming straight black) is that shadows can be really deep, and any areas you can't reach with a brush naturally just look like they're in shadow. EDIT: I used some pretty extreme zenithal priming on this guy, just a burst of white from the direction of the torch then thin layers/washes to bring out the yellow lighting. Gravitas Shortfall posted:Been playing with OSL. My brushwork is messy as hell, but it turned out okay. And here's a figure that was white primed with a black wash as a start (These are old pics but I can't take new ones as they're in storage)    
Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Nov 29, 2022 |
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Nov 29, 2022 15:48
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Nebalebadingdong posted:just wanted to say thanks again for this advice. this camera is like 12 years old but works great. i can take decent pics Would you have any interest in making a quick guide on painting 10mm minis? Your results are amazing and I have been printing off a Forest Dragon Vampire army, but have yet to prime anything. Or failing that, do you have a recommended post or video on the techniques for painting 10mm? E: Additionally, does anyone use Speed/Contrast paint on 10mm minis? I am curious how they would work at that scale? Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Nov 29, 2022 |
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Nov 29, 2022 16:25
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Indolent Bastard posted:Would you have any interest in making a quick guide on painting 10mm minis? Your results are amazing and I have been printing off a Forest Dragon Vampire army, but have yet to prime anything. I don't have a start to finish guide, not yet anyway. 10mm is not really any different from bigger scales honestly, all the same techniques will work. You just need a high quality brush. I use a size 0 kolinsky sable brush. If you want to go hog wild and paint eyes and poo poo like I do, then base your minis black and paint the eyes first. Don't bother trying to add much other details to the face until you can do the eyes reasonably well. Contrast/washes/dry-brushing works extremely well at this scale, as there are no large flat surfaces. The skellies and zombies for your vampire army will look very nice painted this way. This is probably the most recommended way to paint armies at 10mm And get some printed bases. Forest dragon makes some. I have some designs here, too: https://www.thingiverse.com/porblegames/designs
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Nov 29, 2022 18:14
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Nebalebadingdong posted:I don't have a start to finish guide, not yet anyway. 10mm is not really any different from bigger scales honestly, all the same techniques will work. You just need a high quality brush. I use a size 0 kolinsky sable brush. I am debating the bases. I have access to a laser cutter, but I am going to do a test with your bases. Any setting suggestions for yours?
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Nov 29, 2022 19:45
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Indolent Bastard posted:I am debating the bases. I have access to a laser cutter, but I am going to do a test with your bases. Any setting suggestions for yours? No, I dont have a printer so I'm not much help. Several folks have printed them successfully, and most folks print them flat, and that's how I recommend it. There's a slight bevel along the bottom of the base to absorb elephant's foot
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Nov 29, 2022 20:22
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   The mandalorian, and grogu. Vallejo metal color is 90% of this model and contrast paints are 9% with some touchup highlights for the rest. TMM shows up so much better in person while NMM is the way to go for pictures
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Nov 29, 2022 22:47
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Al-Saqr posted:oh so I can get the same effect if I just prime it grey then give it a wash once over with black wash? does placing wash strokes matter for light direction? Doing fancy priming/prepainting like that will likely end up not showing through in the final product unless you're using fairly transparent painting techniques like airbrushing or contrast paints. It can help you see the the details of the miniature better though. Some pros are really into "value sketching" to help determine where the focal points of the paintjob will be, but as a new painter I wouldn't worry about that. Brush stroke direction doesn't really matter for washes since they're liquid enough they don't really retain brush strokes. Their is a bit of an art to getting them to settle into recesses properly. I guess I'd say brush perpendicular to recesses, but honestly it's something you kind of just have to get a feel for. The priming you do will effect the overall value (as in lightness/darkness) of the finished product, black primed minis will end up darker and etc. You can't go wrong with a grey prime. There are some other advantages to various primes though. Colors like red and yellow go on easily over white but can be extremely difficult to get to show over black. Black primes are "forgiving" in that if you miss recessed areas they'll just be black and read as shadows. If you're doing a scheme that's 80% metallic you might consider a metallic primer.
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Nov 29, 2022 22:53
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    Got this off etsy as padding for another order. Great mini, though. Mammoth Factory. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-manticore-2-229848
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Nov 29, 2022 23:31
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Nebalebadingdong posted:No, I dont have a printer so I'm not much help. Several folks have printed them successfully, and most folks print them flat, and that's how I recommend it. There's a slight bevel along the bottom of the base to absorb elephant's foot Any chance I could request a base with grassy sides and room for war machines or large monsters? Specifically I would want to fit a Doom Wheel, Rat Ogres, and Rat Swarms.
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Nov 30, 2022 03:03
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Indolent Bastard posted:Any chance I could request a base with grassy sides and room for war machines or large monsters? Specifically I would want to fit a Doom Wheel, Rat Ogres, and Rat Swarms. Indeed! I have a queue of new bases I'm working on, I'll add it. It will take me a little while to get around to it. I assume the Rat Ogres don't fit on this one? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5208850
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Nov 30, 2022 16:47
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Nebalebadingdong posted:Indeed! I have a queue of new bases I'm working on, I'll add it. It will take me a little while to get around to it. The ones I have are a strip like many other warmaster minis, but as large monsters they are a double deep strip of three rat ogres. It is a simple change, just lose the middle strip in this base and its done. I just suck at modelling, or I might re-mix it myself. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4918765 Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Nov 30, 2022 |
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Nov 30, 2022 17:22
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Any recommendations on storage & display shelves/cabinets?
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Nov 30, 2022 18:07
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Toebone posted:Any recommendations on storage & display shelves/cabinets? I know most people recommend curio cabinets like the Ikea Detolf, but I prefer a Billy bookcase with a glass door. I don't really need to be able to see into the case from all 4 sides, just the front.
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