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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
panduit makes good ones; i use those often at work

i used to use greenlite ones because thats what the local electronics store sold, and they were nice and good value. milspec rated, never had one fail. but now that that store is gone (and the one that bought their remains is also gone), im coasting on my reserves so i should figure out what to replace them with

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kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Panduit poo poo is great, my favorite ziptie anchors are pum-071-c30. Quarter inch hole in the sheet metal, shove it in and never have to touch it again, regular zipties fit through.

And yeah harbor freight ones always break on me.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011
If you're running a new harness or maybe removing factory mounts as part of a stripped interior (or more likely brittle-rear end 90's plastic) - these are amazing.
https://www.auveco.com/cable-ties-harness-straps/honda-mazda-releasable-cable-strap-148mm-14298

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Before I go buy one for $30 at harbor freight tomorrow, do any Port Orchard WA area goons have a timing light I can borrow?

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Thanks for the zip tie advice. I've found breaking/crunchy Harbor Freight zip ties, too. Looks like it's off to HD.


kastein posted:

Before I go buy one for $30 at harbor freight tomorrow, do any Port Orchard WA area goons have a timing light I can borrow?

What year is this?

Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


Anyone have opinions on the different car jacks at harbor freight or otherwise?

Used my friend's this past weekend: https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...blue-56641.html

But thinking of getting an aluminum one because they're awkward things: https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/floor-jacks/2-ton-aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-64542.html

2 ton is plenty for my 2600lb car.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
Don't get the store brand ties from home depot! I can rip them apart in my bare weak hands, anything past 2 on the zip tie gun will snap them too.

T&B, burndy, Panduit, ty-wrap, I like the ones with the stainless insert. Almost all of them sold at an electrical supply house are going to be good, if you can find them online they will work and not be way overpriced.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

meatpimp posted:

Thanks for the zip tie advice. I've found breaking/crunchy Harbor Freight zip ties, too. Looks like it's off to HD.

What year is this?

B bodies still required this level of bullshit in NINETEEN NINETY THREE.

I'm at least as cross about this as you are incredulous. I borrowed one from a friend across town and hopefully will have the distributor timing set today. It has been forever since I used a stroboscopic grease buildup illuminator.

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


Russian Bear posted:

Anyone have opinions on the different car jacks at harbor freight or otherwise?

Used my friend's this past weekend: https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...blue-56641.html

But thinking of getting an aluminum one because they're awkward things: https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/floor-jacks/2-ton-aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-64542.html

2 ton is plenty for my 2600lb car.

If you have the room to store it, the Daytona 3-ton ‘Super Duty’ is essentially the same jack as a Snap-On. Snap-On even sued them over it.

I also have the 1.5-ton Daytona aluminum. I put a big wheel kit on it to use outside/roll over uneven surfaces; it’s small and should be more than enough to lift your car.

Side-by-side:



1.5-ton lifting the entire front end of an FJ62; this should be pretty close to the 3,000-pound limit of the jack:



I’ve heard that when there are similar Pittsburgh and Daytona models the Daytona gets the better parts. Supposedly the 1.5-ton Daytona is a lot easier to pump than the 1.5-ton Pittsburgh. I have no personal experience with that, though.

Advent Horizon fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Nov 28, 2022

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
Tell us more about that wheel upgrade kit

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


It’s a kit from 911 Motorsports. They have kits available for a bunch of different jacks.

Here’s a post about it in my projects thread.

Salami Surgeon
Jan 21, 2001

Don't close. Don't close.


Nap Ghost

Russian Bear posted:

Anyone have opinions on the different car jacks at harbor freight or otherwise?

Used my friend's this past weekend: https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...blue-56641.html

But thinking of getting an aluminum one because they're awkward things: https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/floor-jacks/2-ton-aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-64542.html

2 ton is plenty for my 2600lb car.

I've never had bad luck with a Pittsburgh jack from Harbor Freight.

I used to use almost exclusively the 1.5 ton Pittsburgh aluminum racing jacks, and abused the poo poo out of them. Lifted all kinds of heavy vehicles, cars trucks whatever, overloaded I'm sure. Rolled them through mud and dirt, left them outside. Never serviced them. They never failed. The only time I needed a replacement was because one got stolen.

I just got a 2 ton. It's bigger, slightly longer reach, heavier. Better? Meh. It's still light enough to pick up and carry around without worrying about my back, so I'm happy with that.

boxen
Feb 20, 2011

BlackMK4 posted:

Tell us more about that wheel upgrade kit

First thing I noticed.


Advent Horizon posted:

It’s a kit from 911 Motorsports. They have kits available for a bunch of different jacks.

My hero.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


I started putting distributors from Progression Ignition in my poo poo because then I can do the timing from an app and can disable the distributor as well in a crude immobilizer. Because everyone knows how to hot wire those lovely GM steering columns used for like 50 years.

I have a HF timing light anyway and it “works” but it is the annoying up and down button type.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

ryanrs posted:

My measurements aren't critical. Mostly just verifying if the 3D model I have is dimensionally accurate or not.

The plastic calipers idea was more about showing respect for their equipment rather than 'oh no, a scratch will damage it'. It's an expensive movie camera, so who knows it might be beat to poo poo already. Like it might be covered in gaffers tape and stickers (but probably not).

OK, I admit I ignored the thread's advice and bought some plastic calipers for $7.69 off Amazon.

They're so good for $7.69! They'd be a decent buy at twice the price. (Not at 3X, though).

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

Russian Bear posted:

Anyone have opinions on the different car jacks at harbor freight or otherwise?

Used my friend's this past weekend: https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...blue-56641.html

But thinking of getting an aluminum one because they're awkward things: https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/floor-jacks/2-ton-aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-64542.html

2 ton is plenty for my 2600lb car.

Pittsburghs fine, Daytona is nicer. If it's gonna live in the garage get the steel ones. If it's in and out of the trailer or trunk the aluminum is nice for that.

Majere
Oct 22, 2005

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I was so happy the day I threw out a beat up steel jack and bought one of them Pittsburgh aluminum jobs. well worth the extra bux.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

For :canada:

Costco has the big quickjack, the 7000 for trucks and SUVs on for $1500 delivered online, $400 off.

https://www.costco.ca/quickjack-7000tl-3182-kg-(7%2c000-lb.)-portable-car-lifting-system.product.100757488.html

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

slidebite posted:

For :canada:

Costco has the big quickjack, the 7000 for trucks and SUVs on for $1500 delivered online, $400 off.

https://www.costco.ca/quickjack-7000tl-3182-kg-(7%2c000-lb.)-portable-car-lifting-system.product.100757488.html

I really need to just start squirreling away cash throughout the year so I can afford this. I think I've wanted it for about 5 years now.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I have the 5000slx (I think it's called?) and it is handy. I leave it on the floor all the time and just park the 996 over top of it. It's almost the perfect length for the wheelbase of the Porsche but it's actually shorter than ideal for the Subaru Legacy for matching up with the jackpoints.

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

I too have the 5000 and it is a bit too short to hit the jack points on the E38/39s, it was close enough to work but I got the extensions and they are the perfect length. I leave them in the driveway under a car and they have held up fine for the last few years.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
You can leave them outside in rain and snow?

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

No snow here but mine have been rained on plenty.

BeAuMaN
Feb 18, 2014

I'M A LEAD FARMER, MOTHERFUCKER!

Edit: Dead Deal :rip:
Gonna repost this here since this is the relevant subforum

BeAuMaN posted:

Don't know how much these things normally go for, but:
TPMS Relearn/Reset Tool for GM/Buck/Chevy/Cadillac Series Vehicles 2006 - 2022 for $3 after coupon code 608PA1J3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B9267ZF3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AF6HTQUMQVN7U&psc=1

Source: https://slickdeals.net/f/16274899-diag-tpms-relearn-reset-tool-el-50448-gm-buick-chevy-cadillac-3-free-shipping-w-prime-or-on-25?v=1

(Users say these tools like fresh 9v batteries otherwise they're a bit spotty, but you're probably not resetting your TPMS sensors that often anyway.)
afaik that's a good deal, but honestly I don't know how much cheapie TPMS sensor relearner/resetters go for, but $3 was low enough for me to toss it in my tool bench.

BeAuMaN fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Dec 5, 2022

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.
That's one of those tools where I know I don't need it because Discount Tire will do it for free, but for $3 I would probably get one anyway.

Good thing it doesn't work on Chrysler vehicles.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Those GM sensors just look for a certain radio frequency to wake up, so it doesn't need to be a complicated device. Would love to see Bigclive tear one down.

Cat Hatter posted:

Good thing it doesn't work on Chrysler vehicles.

On my WJ, at least, the tool to do the same thing was a giant magnet.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

everdave posted:

You can leave them outside in rain and snow?
The reservoir/power pak unit is on quick connects so you can easily move it to somewhere sheltered if you wanted.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

IOwnCalculus posted:

On my WJ, at least, the tool to do the same thing was a giant magnet.

That's the most Jeep thing I've heard outside of "factory zip ties" so I'm not really surprised.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Those TPMS reset remotes have to wake up the sensor, which spends 99% of its time shutdown, and definitely does not have the power budget to run a real radio receiver (433 MHz, Bluetooth, etc) just to listen for the remote.

So the sensor has to use some sort of ultra-low-power analog tech. Most systems use a 125 kHz low frequency signal, which is picked up by a resonant coil in the sensor. A very simple level detector senses when the coil is (very weakly) energized by the remote. This is a very brute-force signaling technique, which is why those remotes like having fresh batteries.

A big magnet and a hall sensor would work, too, I suppose.

Advent Horizon
Jan 17, 2003

I’m back, and for that I am sorry


Do they all not just wake up from driving? Mine take a day or two after I’ve swapped the summer tires for snow shoes and vice versa.

Also worth looking into whether a bluetooth dongle + app can relearn the sensors on your vehicles. I swapped on the snows for our Leaf, drove for a while, and yesterday I had the computer re-learn the other set of sensors:

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

slidebite posted:

The reservoir/power pak unit is on quick connects so you can easily move it to somewhere sheltered if you wanted.

Ya I guess I should clarify I only leave the lifts out, the hoses and pump stay in the garage.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Advent Horizon posted:

Do they all not just wake up from driving? Mine take a day or two after I’ve swapped the summer tires for snow shoes and vice versa.

It isn't a matter of just waking them up, it's that for a lot of TPMS systems they need the sensors woken up in a specific order to identify which sensor is which wheel - instead of setting each tire to a different pressure.

Most setups like this also won't program while driving, the car has to be parked to program them.

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
Tpms sensors are so much more annoying than simply using the wheel speed sensors to determine if there's a loss of pressure

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

My Sienna had wheel speed sensors and I retrofitted in-wheel pressure sensors because the OEM system is completely useless offroad. I really like seeing the precise pressure and temperature of each tire. I run anywhere from 15 to 36 psi in my tires, depending on the road.

(I realize I am weird, though.)

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Nah, seeing actual pressures is nice. The only TPMS I don't like is when they have actual sensors, and a car capable of displaying data, but they don't actually show you the pressure. Just a light and you don't know if that means 3psi low or 30.

ionn
Jan 23, 2004

Din morsa.
Grimey Drawer
There seems to be a bunch of TPMS things where the car doesn't know which sensor is where, so all it knows is "one tire is lower than the others" (and they then choose to not show any actual pressure information).

PitViper
May 25, 2003

Welcome and thank you for shopping at Wal-Mart!
I love you!
It's vehicle (and trim) dependent. Most Ford/GM/Chrysler will show you per-wheel pressures, but need a relearn if you move the wheels to a different position on the car. Triggering the sensor during the relearn can be done with a trigger tool, sometimes a big magnet, or even just letting air out until the car recognizes that sensor for that position. GM and Ford will let you do the latter, and tell you on the dash which wheel do do. Chrysler does auto learn on positions for a lot of vehicles, just drive it and it'll eventually figure it out.

Most imports will want some manner of OBD linked relearn, where you scan each position with a tool, and then plug in to the diag port and tell the vehicle which sensor is where. But it's about 50/50 of the vehicle supports hi-line (individual pressures) or low-line (dummy light that just says one or more tires are low).

My personal favorite are Toyota, who often put a sensor in the spare, leading to people filling all 4 tires to 40-70psi in an attempt to make the light turn off. The personal record I've seen was a Camry with 70-90psi in every tire, except for the spare which was at around 10. Hopefully we taught them enough that they won't do it again.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
Or just buy a car with staggered figment from the factory and never worry about tire rotation again! :getin:

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

I've no idea how it works, but when I changed the wheels on my Mustang complete with brand new TPMS sensors in each, it detected them all almost immediately including wheel positions. I didn't have to do anything. Maybe it can tell based on proximity to the receiver(s)?

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Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

opengl posted:

I've no idea how it works, but when I changed the wheels on my Mustang complete with brand new TPMS sensors in each, it detected them all almost immediately including wheel positions. I didn't have to do anything. Maybe it can tell based on proximity to the receiver(s)?

Yeah, my BMW knows which sensor is in which corner. It gives me an error when I put on my winter tires, but it's a reset in the main screen and takes a few minutes of driving.

But it also tells me the pressure in 1/10 psi and I can be super annoyed when two tires are off by 0.4 psi!

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