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Lex Neville
Apr 15, 2009

Lex Neville posted:

Yeah, I had someone film me from behind on the turbo last week. It seemed to me then I was dropping my right hip. Fairly certain I still am.

Anyway, for those interested I have a bit of a follow up. I sent my fitter an email this afternoon and then spent the next few hours trying to work it out myself. I macgyvered a jig to film my legs from the front and set up a laser going from my foot to my knee, and both my legs appear to track ever so slightly inward on the downstroke. I might just be noticing it more on the right because of the rubbing. (Bizarrely, increasing saddle height by 15 mm, back to where my fitter set it, makes my thigh rub against the seat post.) Shimming the left cleat with 5 mm seemed to help a little bit because it shifted me to the right in my saddle, but honestly I can't definitively say that wasn't wishful thinking become manifest. I tried the same stack on the right first and that result wasn't too dissimilar. I did finish an intense two hour workout with the left cleat shimmed, so that's good. VO2max and threshold efforts went fine, but by the end fatigue did appear to cause me to shift to the left again slightly. There are a few things on my mind that I haven't tried yet, such as increasing the Q-factor with spacers (the cleats won't go further inward, sadly) and swapping out my right orthotic with a relatively high arch for one less pronounced (which should have the opposite effect of what I'm looking for, but I guess there's no harm in ruling it out), but for now I'm going to stop digging this well and go back to where I should've began a long time ago: by starting a flexibility/glute exercise regimen first thing tomorrow. Probably will remove the shim as well.

Thanks for your input, goons! To be continued, no doubt.

I have a bit of a follow-up on this. I went back to see the fitter. He figured my issues had to do with seat width so he sat me down on an assometer again and told me my sitbones weren't 118 mm apart, as it showed last time, but supposedly 130 mm instead. Said he'd have wider Specialized saddles in this week and would let me know when they arrived...

Luckily it was possible for me to schedule an appointment the next day with a PT who also does bike fits. It was only the first appointment of probably many, and we're only halfway through the initial measurements, but as it turns out, there were a bunch of things the Retül fitter got wrong, such as which knee is more mobile, which hip opens up further, which foot requires more arch support. Anyway, the long and short of it, for now, is that he had me drop my seat by another 40 mm... after already going down 15 mm from the initial fit myself. I went in for mobility and knee exercises rather than a fit, but it became quite an embarrassing hour and a half. I wish I went to a PT in the first place.

Yes, forty.

e: drat, sorry for the boring snipe.

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kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Lex Neville posted:

I have a bit of a follow-up on this. I went back to see the fitter. He figured my issues had to do with seat width so he sat me down on an assometer again and told me my sitbones weren't 118 mm apart, as it showed last time, but supposedly 130 mm instead. Said he'd have wider Specialized saddles in this week and would let me know when they arrived...

Luckily it was possible for me to schedule an appointment the next day with a PT who also does bike fits. It was only the first appointment of probably many, and we're only halfway through the initial measurements, but as it turns out, there were a bunch of things the Retül fitter got wrong, such as which knee is more mobile, which hip opens up further, which foot requires more arch support. Anyway, the long and short of it, for now, is that he had me drop my seat by another 40 mm... after already going down 15 mm from the initial fit myself. I went in for mobility and knee exercises rather than a fit, but it became quite an embarrassing hour and a half. I wish I went to a PT in the first place.

Yes, forty.

So... does it feel a lot better now?

> my sitbones weren't 118 mm apart, as it showed last time, but supposedly 130 mm instead. Said he'd have wider Specialized saddles in this week and would let me know when they arrived...
What saddle widths do these correspond to?

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

TobinHatesYou posted:

Like Clark Nova said, Bell operates out of the same office as Giro. Their hardware is similar, but there are slight differences. Bell has a slightly rounder fit too.
From trying one gazillion helmets last time I cracked mine: bell and giro fit quite different. Giros fit me great, Bells don't.

T.C.
Feb 10, 2004

Believe.

nwin posted:

Anyone seen any deals on cycling helmets?

Edit: under $150, MIPS preferred but not required. Coming from a giro where adjusting the straps is a pain.

If you're buying a new helmet, take a look at the crash testing stuff that's started to be done in the last few years. Might inform your decisions

https://www.helmet.beam.vt.edu/bicycle-helmet-ratings.html

dema
Aug 13, 2006

IDK about sit bone measurements. The proper size, per measurement, Specialized Power saddle is a bit too wide for me. Either presses into the back of my legs or pushes me too far onto the nose. Dropping down a size fixed that and is perfectly comfortable. YMMV

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

dema posted:

IDK about sit bone measurements. The proper size, per measurement, Specialized Power saddle is a bit too wide for me. Either presses into the back of my legs or pushes me too far onto the nose. Dropping down a size fixed that and is perfectly comfortable. YMMV

The way SMP models the sit bones (not as points but two converging edges) makes a lot of sense and explains why people could have diverging preferences from a single point width measurement.

Lex Neville
Apr 15, 2009

kimbo305 posted:

So... does it feel a lot better now?

> my sitbones weren't 118 mm apart, as it showed last time, but supposedly 130 mm instead. Said he'd have wider Specialized saddles in this week and would let me know when they arrived...
What saddle widths do these correspond to?

So far, yes, but admittedly it's early on and there's plenty to work on and/or change still. I've only been on the turbo for short durations in order to let last week's sores heal. What inspires confidence in me is that the PT is not just looking at measurements dictated by software, and not blindly following readings given by infrared patches.

As to your second question, the former should correspond to a seat width of 143 mm and the latter would fall somewhere in between that and 155 mm. According to Specialized's chart that is (afaik, the Power saddles are "red"):


Anyhow, it's pretty inconsistent irrespective of this chart's accuracy - I don't think it is very accurate in the first place; a common criticism is that it measures sit bone width when sitting upright, with the hips in a 90° angle, while I believe the sit bones get narrower when the pelvis is rotated forward. It works with two sliders, which is a fairly error prone system. The one thing that was consistent between the two times I sat on it, was how I sat on it, but the two readings still varied by 12 mm because of the way the sliders work.

Lex Neville fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Nov 28, 2022

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Lex Neville posted:

I have a bit of a follow-up on this. I went back to see the fitter. He figured my issues had to do with seat width so he sat me down on an assometer again and told me my sitbones weren't 118 mm apart, as it showed last time, but supposedly 130 mm instead. Said he'd have wider Specialized saddles in this week and would let me know when they arrived...

Luckily it was possible for me to schedule an appointment the next day with a PT who also does bike fits. It was only the first appointment of probably many, and we're only halfway through the initial measurements, but as it turns out, there were a bunch of things the Retül fitter got wrong, such as which knee is more mobile, which hip opens up further, which foot requires more arch support. Anyway, the long and short of it, for now, is that he had me drop my seat by another 40 mm... after already going down 15 mm from the initial fit myself. I went in for mobility and knee exercises rather than a fit, but it became quite an embarrassing hour and a half. I wish I went to a PT in the first place.

Yes, forty.

e: drat, sorry for the boring snipe.

Yikes. Going +55mm out from ideal without a major adjustment in fore/aft would absolutely murder my rear end, taint, knees, ankles and feet.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

TobinHatesYou posted:

Yikes. Going +55mm out from ideal without a major adjustment in fore/aft would absolutely murder my rear end, taint, knees, ankles and feet.

I've changed my fit by about that much in both height and fore-aft over the past four years.
Not all in one go, although on one less-used bike I did make a 3cm adjustment in saddle height all at once.

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
New thread title "murder my rear end, taint"

numberoneposter
Feb 19, 2014

How much do I cum? The answer might surprise you!

my taint is nuclear hardened

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

dema posted:

I've always liked the various Specialized Prevail helmets. S-Works one is nice, light and on sale today: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/s-works-prevail-ii-vent/p/187323?color=320645-187323

Yep, this is the winner. Comes in near the top of that helmet study too-thanks!

a loathsome bird
Aug 15, 2004

nwin posted:

Yep, this is the winner. Comes in near the top of that helmet study too-thanks!

Note that this is the Prevail II Vent, which is currently rated 41st by VT, not the Prevail III which is rated 2nd overall/best road helmet on their rankings.

osker
Dec 18, 2002

Wedge Regret
If anyone is looking for a deal on shoes, Fizik has a 35% off coupon running ("RIDENOW35"). The coupon does not work for the Artica GTX winter shoes, but I snagged some road shoes for 110 bucks.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

BraveUlysses posted:

New thread title "murder my rear end, taint"

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi
I got an awesome deal on some closeout S-Works 7 shoes and I friggin' love them. The power transfer feels much better as compared to my 10 year old Sidis. :toot:

Also Santa is bringing me a Kickr!

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Only thing I bought for cyber monday was a set of not-on-loving-sale extended fenders for my cargo bike. So loving tired of the entire front end and rear stays looking like I just went through a winter gravel race.

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!
does anyone have any info on this ochsner frame?



It's for sale for $350, which I would haggle over regardless, but what do you all think about the frame and that price? The only info I can find is on old forums about this mark, or an ebay listing with some elaborate historical descriptions. Guy doesn't have a scale to weigh it, unfortunately, but I'd go do that in person.

Albinator
Mar 31, 2010

Looks super like this thing: http://sscycleworks.com/galleries/sold-bikes-frames/ochsner-54-aelle-bike.html. The paint doesn't look as good, but that might be the photo. If it is that model then the tubing is apparently ok to good, but nothing super special, chat here: https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/columbus-aelle-any-good.373157/.

I'm sure if it's in good shape it can make quite a nice bike, but I don't see anything particularly special about it, and $350 would have been overpriced a few years ago. But old steel frames get more of a premium these days, so maybe it's not crazy now. Haggle a bit for sure.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Taping bars is the one and only bicycle thing that makes me want to scream with rage and despair. I've done it like six times now and it has not gotten any easier nor have the results gotten any less garbage. I have watched and read countless tutorials and I still can't seem to do it. Is this one of those things where you either just get it or you never will? I've gotten to the point where I get two sets of tape because I know I'll inevitably gently caress up the first attempt and will have to try again when the tape is already mangled or cut too short.

resident
Dec 22, 2005

WE WERE ALL UP IN THAT SHIT LIKE A MUTHAFUCKA. IT'S CLEANER THAN A BROKE DICK DOG.

Slavvy posted:

Taping bars is the one and only bicycle thing that makes me want to scream with rage and despair. I've done it like six times now and it has not gotten any easier nor have the results gotten any less garbage. I have watched and read countless tutorials and I still can't seem to do it. Is this one of those things where you either just get it or you never will? I've gotten to the point where I get two sets of tape because I know I'll inevitably gently caress up the first attempt and will have to try again when the tape is already mangled or cut too short.

What kind of tape are you using? All the Supacaz and Fizik tape I’ve used can be undone and retaped even if you gently caress up a small section.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Pull it really hard, don't be afraid to redo it, and if you rip it by accident you can always just use electrical tape to fix it up. I like the bontranger stuff because you can stretch it like crazy and its super long.

I've wrapped bars like 30 times, and around the half way point my skill peaked and I had the most professional wrap, and then I got lazy and now I do it really fast but kinda lovely. Its super functional though so I don't care. I'm just going to replace it later anyway.

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe

abraham linksys posted:

yall got any favorites for winter athleisure-y sweatpants for biking in? i probably won't be riding on many sub-freezing days but would like something for 32-45F. would like something with zippy pockets so my phone doesn't fall out, but otherwise not picky. i do some ~20 mile rides regularly but at pretty slow paces, so just want something that can keep me warm without becoming a sweatbox (i tried to wear some uniqlo heattech pants i've had for a while and holy poo poo my legs were basically inside a sauna by the end of a half hour ride)

normally i'd just look to adidas or nike for this sorta stuff but weirdly they don't have anything winter-y with zip pockets (i loved the adidas tiro soccer pants for riding in this summer...)

e: probably helpful here: 5'11" relatively slim dude (have not developed sick biking calves yet)

A little late here, but this is something I've been looking into. I do have one pair of thermal cycling (padded) tights, and they work well, but they're from my one cold weather kit, which is an OK-ish one from Amazon with a lot of graphic and logo stuff going on. I want something less visually loud sometimes, especially since the big logos are for brands only other Amazon-shopping cheapskates recognize.

I've been thinking about getting some fleece-lined running tights and using my padded cycling underwear with them. I feel like catching as little of the cold wind as possible is a good idea. And, I can find those tights at decent prices, and they can be used as... uh, not-cycling tights.

I could be wrong, though. I'm open to ideas on this front. I'm also going to look for another thermal cycling jacket with a more subdued look.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

resident posted:

What kind of tape are you using? All the Supacaz and Fizik tape I’ve used can be undone and retaped even if you gently caress up a small section.

Cheap foamy type stuff usually, I haven't got the balls to spend $80+ on bar tape when the risk of loving up is so high. It's usually the end bits where the plug goes + the bit around the brake levers that gently caress me up.

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002

Slavvy posted:

Taping bars is the one and only bicycle thing that makes me want to scream with rage and despair. I've done it like six times now and it has not gotten any easier nor have the results gotten any less garbage. I have watched and read countless tutorials and I still can't seem to do it. Is this one of those things where you either just get it or you never will? I've gotten to the point where I get two sets of tape because I know I'll inevitably gently caress up the first attempt and will have to try again when the tape is already mangled or cut too short.

i'm with you on this and almost want to pay someone to do it right but then i always cheap out and decide to live with it looking like poo poo

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

I use pretty thick shimano (well, Pro, but same diff) tape with a silicone backer instead of adhesive and just practiced until I was happy.
The plugs weren't very good but the tape was nice.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

Slavvy posted:

Taping bars is the one and only bicycle thing that makes me want to scream with rage and despair.

I suspect you haven’t got an internally routed frame or bars.

The secret is that you can do both sides, don’t cut the tape, then stand back and compare. You can unwrap and redo it till you’re happy. The only rule is keep it tight 100% of the time.

My first few time I left a triangle shaped gap on the outside of the shifters that I only spotted later.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Mauser posted:

does anyone have any info on this ochsner frame?



It's for sale for $350, which I would haggle over regardless, but what do you all think about the frame and that price? The only info I can find is on old forums about this mark, or an ebay listing with some elaborate historical descriptions. Guy doesn't have a scale to weigh it, unfortunately, but I'd go do that in person.

Ochsner didn't make frames, they just slapped their brand on some bikes.
That frame doesn't look particularly well cared for (not beat to hell, but how sure are you that there's no internal rusting?). You can tell it wasn't a particularly high-end model because there's no chrome on the fork or stays.

If you had some personal connection to the brand, and it were a NOS frame, maybe it'd be worth $350.
In that condition, used, for what is functionally a no-name steel bike, there's no reason to pay more than $150 at most, especially as we enter one of the worst sellers' markets for used bikes in years. I've already seen brand new bikes getting marked down by 50%, don't overpay based on thinking that we're still in the seller's market of two years ago.

numberoneposter
Feb 19, 2014

How much do I cum? The answer might surprise you!

Physic, ahem, Fizik Microtex tape is like $40 on Amazon. It's my favorite and it's very hard wearing. I have some that's survived a low side slide across gravel on my road bike and the stuff on my CX bike looks brand new.

numberoneposter fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Nov 30, 2022

osker
Dec 18, 2002

Wedge Regret

numberoneposter posted:

Physic, ahem, Fizik Microtex tape is like $40 on Amazon. It's my favorite and it's very hard wearing. I have some that's survived a low side slide across gravel on my road bike and the stuff on my CX bike looks brand new.

osker posted:

If anyone is looking for a deal on shoes everything, Fizik has a 35% off coupon running ("RIDENOW35"). The coupon does not work for the Artica GTX winter shoes, but I snagged some road shoes for 110 bucks.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

numberoneposter posted:

Physic, ahem, Fizik Microtex tape is like $40 on Amazon.

I typically avoid buying brand stuff on Amazon. Have you ever gotten product that looked fake?

Baronash
Feb 29, 2012

So what do you want to be called?
Is there a reason that hub power meters aren’t around anymore? I’ve been doing some riding on Zwift, and found that I really like charts and that having even an estimate of my power is great for keeping myself at a manageable pace rather than collapsing completely after ~25 miles or so. I’d like to get something more accurate that I can also use once I’m biking outside again. Someone on marketplace is selling a wheel with a Powertap G3 hub for $150, and I’m wondering if there’s a real compelling reason to instead be looking at crank-based meters that start at around double that.

Lex Neville
Apr 15, 2009
physique

:goonsay:

numberoneposter
Feb 19, 2014

How much do I cum? The answer might surprise you!

kimbo305 posted:

I typically avoid buying brand stuff on Amazon. Have you ever gotten product that looked fake?
I agree I hate ordering ANYTHING from Amazon if I can help it but I think bar tape if it's going to be "fake" is going to come out of the same exact factory as the real stuff just not sold through b2b retail channels. I also imagine that people arn't jumping at the bit for bar tape so not much incentive to sell fake stuff for a marginal discount and probably a good chance its just being sold at a few bucks higher than cost or something.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
The zipp service course cx tape is really good and has a silicone backing so you can unwrap it and retry pretty easily. It's also pretty good at letting you know if the amount of overlap is right because it will be smooth instead of lumpy. Another tip is get your bar end plug and end of the tape sorted out after the first like 3 wraps so you don't get too far and have to go back and fix it.

Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires
I wish tape without adhesive was more common. I rewrapped the absolute cheap junk tape on my Bikes Direct mini velo like six times as I swapped around the bars, stem, levers and shifters and it came out perfect every time and hasn't moved or loosened yet.
I also got really good at doing the figure 8 around the levers. You're good enough at wrapping when you don't have to use the little strips to cover the clamps anymore

Lex Neville
Apr 15, 2009
more goonsay but isn't the covering tape for when you don't do a classic figure eight? both seems like double overkill

Lex Neville fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Nov 30, 2022

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Baronash posted:

Is there a reason that hub power meters aren’t around anymore? I’ve been doing some riding on Zwift, and found that I really like charts and that having even an estimate of my power is great for keeping myself at a manageable pace rather than collapsing completely after ~25 miles or so. I’d like to get something more accurate that I can also use once I’m biking outside again. Someone on marketplace is selling a wheel with a Powertap G3 hub for $150, and I’m wondering if there’s a real compelling reason to instead be looking at crank-based meters that start at around double that.

A few reasons:
1) PowerTap got sold and the product discontinued, so if you ever have an issue you may be SOL.
2) They only work with rim brake bikes, which are less and less popular. (Yes, they made a disc version for a year, but it uses a proprietary rotor that is no longer made, so...)
3) You can't use them with a wheel-off trainer, obviously.

Crank or spider or pedal based options are just much more versatile.

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

Does this seem ok for a beginning road bike https://www.academy.com/p/gira-mens-viaggio-700c-road-bike? I've never had one before.

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Development
Jun 2, 2016

brand engager posted:

Does this seem ok for a beginning road bike https://www.academy.com/p/gira-mens-viaggio-700c-road-bike? I've never had one before.

I would strongly advise against buying your first road bike online if you've never tried a road bike. If you can manage it, it helps to go to a bike shop or maybe a bike co-op and trying them out. Road bikes have different geometries, and you might enjoy either a racier or more relaxed ride.

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