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Throatwarbler posted:I imagine the owner's manual will probably tell you exactly what you need to do to change the battery. this is not the “old Mercedes Benz” thread
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Nov 21, 2022 07:05
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Throatwarbler posted:I imagine the owner's manual will probably tell you exactly what you need to do to change the battery. Most likely similarly as in the SEAT manual (just replace SEAT with Volkswagen):  TBF in the previous page they let you know the basics (deactivate alarm, negative terminal first etc) so they do not forbid changing the battery yourself.
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Nov 21, 2022 12:11
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For shits and giggles I just googled and downloaded the manual for a 2016 GTI, and hey look, illustrated instructions on how to change your battery, and even check the electrolyte level. Not sure what the joke is there - no one ever reads the manual? Evidently, but why wouldn't it have battery maintenance instructions like every other car?
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Nov 21, 2022 13:33
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Throatwarbler posted:For shits and giggles I just googled and downloaded the manual for a 2016 GTI, and hey look, illustrated instructions on how to change your battery, and even check the electrolyte level. ....wait, who is selling a battery that needs you to check the electrolyte level? Nearly all car batteries sold now are maintenance free seal lead acid, and why does a 2016 Manual tell you how to do that for a battery that isn't regularly sold anymore? Like the only battery I've seen where you can still do that is golf cart and deep cycle batteries.
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Nov 21, 2022 14:55
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The OEM batteries have a little window for checking the level. Just a go or no go type of thing.
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Nov 21, 2022 16:40
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 This was part of the battery replacement procedure in my 2011 Škoda. It had the specialist replacement recommendation in the manual, too. I'm assuming it wants to know the capacity for charge management to prolong the battery life, and there is an actual lookup table of approved battery manufacturers, none of whom are Bosch.
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Nov 21, 2022 20:50
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My 2011 A8L's passenger side mirror is over-rotating out when coming out of the folded up (locked position). It can be turned by hand back to where it should be but the hinge feels looser than it should be. Any ideas?
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Nov 29, 2022 21:44
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I had my battery changed at an auto zone or whatever with little to no incident. No coding or whatever iirc. The only thing was the little wrapper they had on the OEM wouldn’t fit anymore, but it’s been years since and it hasn’t been a problem.
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Nov 29, 2022 22:56
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willroc7 posted:My 2011 A8L's passenger side mirror is over-rotating out when coming out of the folded up (locked position). It can be turned by hand back to where it should be but the hinge feels looser than it should be. Any ideas? Don't know about Audi, but this happened on one of the M538 Restoration guy's cars (maybe project Dubai?) and there was a spring loaded pin in the mirror that gets stuck in the 7 series and can be removed and cleaned so it comes back out at the right time. Sounds like a similar problem. I can try and run down the video if you want. I think it was towards the end of the series, maybe next to last. Its a good watch I found from the youtube thread on here.
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Nov 30, 2022 19:10
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The battery in my 2016 GTI went flat after I didn’t drive for months during lockdown. I had a guy come out and fit a new one and just about every gizmo had an error until he plugged something in and reset it. Literally every dashboard light was on and the display showed ‘ACC ERROR’ etc.
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Nov 30, 2022 19:52
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Those lights go away if you drive for a couple of minutes from my experience. You can also clear all the codes with an ODB reader as well, but the errors resolve themselves.
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Nov 30, 2022 20:39
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EvellSnoats posted:Don't know about Audi, but this happened on one of the M538 Restoration guy's cars (maybe project Dubai?) and there was a spring loaded pin in the mirror that gets stuck in the 7 series and can be removed and cleaned so it comes back out at the right time. Sounds like a similar problem. Thanks I’ll look into that. I’m guessing all of the motorized mirror assemblies are quite similar.
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Nov 30, 2022 21:59
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I have done something stupid. Two words that should not go together: Govdeals.com / Audi. Just over 200k on the clock. Police seizure car after the guy only owned it 2000 miles. BUT I pulled carfax and it was a prior second car that was sold CPO by Audi. I got to the location about 30 minutes prior to end of auction end. Body, paint, interior all looked outstanding. I pulled the trigger, but as far as inspection, it might has well have been sight unseen. Paid for it, insured it and went to pick it up from the small time TN police department. They kind of gave me poo poo but after an hours or so I was out. I told them I was taking it across the street to get towed as their impound lot was pea gravel, but it seemed to run and drive okay for something sitting up for a year and I only had 20 miles to do so I took the chance with my buddy following and encouraging me. I knew the battery was most likely toast, but it fired right up with a boost. When I was headed to my vacay home garage, it was screaming about check oil and tire pressure / ECS. I checked the oil, and, if anything it was overfilled so I figured I was good. I figured tire pressure was just bad sensors but tires were a little low, that went away. Battery was FUBAR so I stopped by Autozone and picked up the cheapest valuecraft at $100 because I still don't know if this thing is worth the money I put down. I ran the codes on my Autel at home and it pulled about 87, most of which had to do with a bad battery. I got most of them reconciled and took it for a spin. I am down to 5 codes. Two of them might sideline me and it is these I need help with. As I was driving around the parking lot back to my townhome, the car stalled and died on an incline. Never overheated. Did throw the check oil warning. Car died. When I tried to restart it, it cranks but won't catch. Autel Codes are as follows: P164D00 - Reduced Oil Pressure switch malfunction P034100- Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit - Range Performance Plan tomorrow is to get both sensors (camshaft and oil pressure) at Autozone as an interim fix and change the oil with the sensors. Would anything else be making it go no-start on me? I figure it could be bad gas (it still had a half a tank when I showed up and it was probably a year old) so I am going to get some HEET and maybe think about draining it and putting in fresh gas as well (how big a PITA is the fuel filter?). Anything else I should consider? If anyone thinks this worth of a project thread, I will make one. Here is a link to the closed auction for now: https://www.govdeals.com/index.cfm?fa=Main.Item&itemID=111&acctID=5758 Yeah I know. But AI going to AI and I have another B8 in need of a few things.
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Dec 9, 2022 03:32
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I would definitely read a project thread about this.
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Dec 9, 2022 21:34
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Just be aware the Camshaft code may be a sign the cams are out of phase, an initial sign of failing chain tensioners. If the engine still ran, it's fixable but something to keep in mind.
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Dec 10, 2022 01:48
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CommieGIR posted:Just be aware the Camshaft code may be a sign the cams are out of phase, an initial sign of failing chain tensioners. If the engine still ran, it's fixable but something to keep in mind. Car has 208k on it. One of the invoices was for timing chain replacement with tensioner. i think it was at 135k and over $5k at the dealership in 2013 when it should have been a known thing, will post to the project thead shortly. But not to say it did not fail already. It had bad gas in it and with some HEET at lease got up and going. It's in the garage but we are wrenching tomorrow.
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Dec 10, 2022 04:44
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Okay, update. I changed the oil. Tried to drain the gas from the return line but it wouldn't work, so I put some injector cleaner in it, babied it and added some fresh fuel. I now turns over fine, doesn't stall and is running well but with issues. It was for sure chocking on lovely ethanol and water but now starts and runs fine. It is still telling me to stop and check the oil level and the EPC light flashes whenever I slow down or turn sharply (but the sharp turn may be my imagination). I changed not only the oil and filter, but the oil pressure switch as well. I changed the camshaft position sensor too based on that code. The errors that went away involved fuel pressure sensor and I figure that is because I finally got rid of the stale gas. So I am down to 2 codes, an oil pressure switch malfunction and camshaft position sensor circuit/range performance (P034100 despite a new sensor), these codes have been consistently present. I have some other codes, but I think I have them figured out. I had a short to ground on the blower motor and when I pulled the motor, it was completely locked up. The resistor looks corroded. I will replace the blower motor for sure, will probably do the resistor unless someone can tell me how to troubleshoot it. There is a weird code on the radio, but it works and a couple of others like that I will sort out once I figure out whether I have a car or a donor. Appreciate any insight. I am going to move this to a project thread either tomorrow or Monday with pics but will cross post technical questions.
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Dec 11, 2022 05:37
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Keep dropping updates from time to time. It’s interesting.
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Dec 11, 2022 05:46
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I think I am going to drop the pan and clear the filter to the pump and see if there is sludge. Also will mechanically test the oil pressure. Unfortunately, no one local has a gasket, so all of this will have to wait until next weekend.
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Dec 11, 2022 13:33
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Hahaha, I'm free of the VW curse, the Passat is sold! But my brother has a MKV GTI that needs a cat-back. Any suggestions for a cheapo? It seems like ebay was flooded with them at $200 back in the day, but that seems to be long gone...
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Dec 11, 2022 22:01
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meatpimp posted:Hahaha, I'm free of the VW curse, the Passat is sold! I'd just to go to an exhaust shop and have them make something for a few hundred bucks. You won't see any kind of gains in this car without a tune anyways so just get something that isn't obnoxious IMO.
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Dec 11, 2022 22:25
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Moving the Govdeals Audi to here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=4019732 Appreciate any input!
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Dec 15, 2022 02:18
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Hello Thread, I have an unmodified 2013 Audi A4 (B8.5 generation) with 98k on the odometer. I really dig the car and would like to keep it for a while longer. To keep me satisfied and lessen the urge to upgrade vehicles, I am researching the pros and cons of APR tunes, being most interested in APR Stage 1 Tune at this point. I think I found a shop that could do it nearby. As a preface, I know little about car mods. Not going to do my own work, don't have the tools or space right now. Of the many questions I'll eventually have, anybody have reliability concerns for this sort of mod? 2013 is riiiiiiight exactly at that point where the A4 started being a non-dumpster-fire for overall reliability. I have had a variety of non-severe maintenance issues, maybe slightly above average for what I would expect, but nothing catastrophic that totaled the car (yet) which is a relief. I can write up the litany at some point. Obviously it's impossible to know for sure but I wanted to gauge / SWAG the % chance an APR Stage 1 (or other stages) could conceivably cause a catastrophic or expensive engine failure. I would guess having spent no time researching it, maybe 5%? 3%? I wouldn't be a moron with it, wouldn't WOT below operating temp, etc. Probably not going to track it, maybe a couple track days? BTW I have owned the car since a few years ago, it had ~68k when I acquired it. It is a daily driver, and I only have 1 assigned spot in my garage. Any thoughts? Let me know any other context I can add. Thanks! e: Completely off topic, but I spent a bunch of time trying to find used cars I could buy that could conceivably be driven lightly over a year, then sold for only a little less than what you paid. I thought it might be easier to find a sporty model of any make to do this with that didn't cost a fortune. But, it doesn't seem to be feasible, and everything is so expensive. I would be willing to pay an obnoxious high monthly note payment (60 months preferred) if I thought I had a reasonably high chance of selling at a good price after a year or so. Any suggestions welcome! This is of course even more infeasible (I think) when buying new vs. buying used, but I would be willing to do both. I love A4s/A5s and their more expensive counterparts but I feel they depreciate very very hard until they are just a husk no one wants. (I hate to have to sell a car private party, acknowledging this will cost me) Inner Light fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Dec 17, 2022 |
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Dec 17, 2022 01:45
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Inner Light posted:Hello Thread, Which of the following are you trying to address? 1. I want a new car. 2. I want to go fast. Because if it’s the former, sure, this seems fine. Maybe some rims? Think about the stuff you’d do if you were going to sell it and then just do that. If it’s the latter though, there are other alternatives that may scratch the itch in a more substantive way.
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Dec 17, 2022 13:39
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Potentially both? My post is not very good, it’s like a bad diary entry, wanted to get some thoughts out that I’ve been considering for a while. It’s more than likely I do neither and stick with my A4 without mods, but wanted to see what ideas were out there.  I have considered wheels but decided to stick to stock for now, I generally prefer stock and it confers no performance benefit  it’s a good suggestion though for sure
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Dec 17, 2022 15:35
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Inner Light posted:Potentially both? My post is not very good, it’s like a bad diary entry, wanted to get some thoughts out that I’ve been considering for a while. It’s more than likely I do neither and stick with my A4 without mods, but wanted to see what ideas were out there. It’s a fine post, I just think it’s worth asking yourself what you really want. Nothing wrong with wanting something shiny from time to time. Nor is there anything wrong with needing to go fast.  Consider, for example, the Porsche driving school folks were talking about in that thread. It’s iirc like 3-4K for a weekend and you will get to drive something shiny and go fast.
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Dec 17, 2022 17:31
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What engine/trim package does it have?
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Dec 17, 2022 17:44
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builds character posted:It’s a fine post, I just think it’s worth asking yourself what you really want. Nothing wrong with wanting something shiny from time to time. Nor is there anything wrong with needing to go fast. Its not really fair to compare the 'Porsche driving experience' (which is 'Hey look this thing is tail heavy, oh no!') to getting a stage 1 APR tune on an A4. One of these is accessible fun, the other is a very expensive driving course that would pay for 2-3 tunes and maybe some quality of life maintenance.
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Dec 18, 2022 05:25
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Just wanted to report that after a few weekends of work and several "this is the last part I need" and "this is the last tool I need" runs, I'm on the back side of a timing gear refresh on a '11 2.5L Golf.  The timing chains show a little stretch when hanging next to new, the lower chain much more than the upper. Hopefully this clears the fault- had been running well enough to get from Cleveland Ohio to Atlanta, though.  This little guy was found behind the upper chain tensioner, supposed to be filtering the oil pressure feed to it.  Vacuum pump was leaking like a motherfucker, which made the transmission a greasy, oily fucker to play with. Re-sealed the pump with a new gasket and some silicone for good measure. I'd say getting the trans installed back on the engine block, solo, is a highlight of 2022 for me.  
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Dec 18, 2022 09:39
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I just had some major work done on my 2010 Volkswagen Golf. The belt system had to be replaced along the brake vacuum pump. Prior to that, random warning lights went off, which were probably sensors damaged by the old pump spewing poo poo. Replacing the ABS sensor light would be about $180, per that garage. Worse, though, is the airbag light, which will cause me to fail the state inspection, which I need to do by May. Is it worth trying to reset the light through one of those OBD scanners? Edit: I had an oil change done by a moron who left my lights on and killed my battery, and I feel like the airbag light's been on since, so maybe a reset would work. Red fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Dec 19, 2022 |
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Dec 19, 2022 05:00
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Red posted:I just had some major work done on my 2010 Volkswagen Golf. The belt system had to be replaced along the brake vacuum pump. How old is the battery? Funky voltage could be what's setting off the airbag light. Look into OBDeleven, it's been useful to me on a number of golfs I've had to reset codes and other stuff like turning on/off DRLs, automatic windows with the key, etc.
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Dec 19, 2022 08:17
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aye my cheap obd2 will do some codes and resets but not airbag ones, check it can do what you need before you buy
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Dec 19, 2022 08:39
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NoWake posted:How old is the battery? Funky voltage could be what's setting off the airbag light. I had the battery replaced in June or so, so it's new-ish, but I wonder if the old one dying and something not resetting is the cause here. DesperateDan posted:aye my cheap obd2 will do some codes and resets but not airbag ones, check it can do what you need before you buy This one might do the trick: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0716ZGRNB/
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Dec 19, 2022 14:42
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Red posted:This one might do the trick: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0716ZGRNB/ At that price you're better off just buying the obdeleven dongle
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Dec 20, 2022 00:10
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The timing guides are calling from my ‘11 A8L’s V8. RIP my rear end all. Rattlin’ Jackson
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Dec 21, 2022 00:36
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Anyone have any experience diagnosing an EPC warning light? I'm working on a friend's 2001 Beetle GLS 120k miles. I've replaced two broken coolant houses in the last month then this popped up and the car is in limp mode. I only have access to a basic scan tool. Haven't run it yet and am not sure if it will point me to the correct sensor. I was planning to try clearing then replacing the MAF first then go down the rabbit hole of TPS, CPS, WSS et.. Any ideas? If anything else goes wrong with this mother fucker I may just suggest burning it for the insurance money.
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Dec 22, 2022 01:07
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Anyone know where I can get a CTA 1023 Timing Tool kit for the 2.0T? Seems to be backordered everywhere and no used ones on flea bay.
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Dec 22, 2022 03:57
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How reliable have the 2.0 TDI's been after the dieselgate fixes? They're at somewhat tempting prices due to the cost of diesel.
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Jan 31, 2023 00:28
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My husband picked up a 2014 tdi sportwagen 4 years ago and so far and the only issue he's had has been having to replace the stock springs. Which randomly seemed to break over time. After two went he just replaced them all.
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Jan 31, 2023 00:32
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Pine Cone Jones posted:My husband picked up a 2014 tdi sportwagen 4 years ago and so far and the only issue he's had has been having to replace the stock springs. Which randomly seemed to break over time. After two went he just replaced them all. Expect to need to replace the DEF Injector at some point or possibly a turbo down the road (like way out there past 150k for the turbo) but otherwise its really their most reliable motor. Just make sure to get the right oil in it, it HAS to be the correct rated oil for the VW TDIs. Recommend changing it every 5-7k rather than the 10k they recommend. Also: Look at doing the fuel filter if it hasn't been done yet.
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Jan 31, 2023 00:40
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