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Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

dema posted:

It's probably the black plastic (?) fenders. Seems like the functional choice though.

Would be a cool car for your Colorado outdoor life. Mountain biking, camping, skiing and the like. If you had the money to burn.

I had the exact same thought: the perfect car for sitting in traffic on 70!

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dema
Aug 13, 2006

If you want to avoid weekend ski traffic, the pro move is to leave Denver at like 5:30 AM and do some skinning before the lifts open. Or tailgate breakfast. And then head home at like 2.

dema fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Nov 18, 2022

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

dema posted:

If you want to avoid weekend ski traffic, the pro move is to leave Denver at like 5:30 AM and do some skinning before the lifts open. Or tailgate breakfast. And then head home at like 2.

Yup, I try to get through the tunnel and grab breakfast in Dillon or something.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

LN Engineering is having a black friday sale starting tomorrow which is including 20% off IMS kits and other parts.

I might just buy a solution and install it over the winter.

willroc7
Jul 24, 2006

BADGES? WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' BADGES!
I took my front bumper off for the first time today to clean the radiators and condensers and the bottom fasteners were Torx instead of Phillips… and they were painted over in silver lmao. Who paints a bumper on the car like that!?

Ether Frenzy
Dec 22, 2006




Nap Ghost
Porsche Owners

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Out of curiosity how was it? I've been meaning to do mine.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

willroc7 posted:

I took my front bumper off for the first time today to clean the radiators and condensers and the bottom fasteners were Torx instead of Phillips… and they were painted over in silver lmao. Who paints a bumper on the car like that!?

You mean these?


(why yes, I do just happen to have a bag of those on my desk in the shop)

That's what's supposed to be holding your bumper cover on.

They're silver because the car cleaning weekend driver only type of porsche owners love getting front end resprays.

willroc7
Jul 24, 2006

BADGES? WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' BADGES!
The job itself was not too bad, but if you don’t have a proper pry bar tool the plastic rivets in the fender liner are a real PITA. I did it with needle nose pliers and I had to pull about as hard as I can to pop them, even with penetrating oil. The one vertical screw that you access through there is a bit fiddly too and definitely benefitted from some penetrating oil as well. The rest was a doddle.

The radiators and condensers themselves only had a small bit of debris in there but I could smell the decaying leaves as soon as I popped the shrouds off. So I imagine that stuff would eventually cause corrosion problems if not cleaned. It’s a bit weird in my case because the bumper had not been removed since painting (I broke the paint seal on the fasteners underneath) so it must not have been done since it was painted. The previous owner had no knowledge of this and the only damage on the carfax was from 2004 so… ??? I would think there would be a lot more in there if it hadn’t been cleaned since 2004. Who knows. I’m also hoping I can get my fitment a little tighter up to the hood when I reinstall but I’m not sure that will happen now that I’ve gone through the removal.

willroc7 fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Nov 28, 2022

willroc7
Jul 24, 2006

BADGES? WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' BADGES!

Motronic posted:

You mean these?


(why yes, I do just happen to have a bag of those on my desk in the shop)

That's what's supposed to be holding your bumper cover on.

They're silver because the car cleaning weekend driver only type of porsche owners love getting front end resprays.

Yeppers. Every DIY video I watched had them as phillips. It is a mystery.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

willroc7 posted:

Yeppers. Every DIY video I watched had them as phillips. It is a mystery.

The philips ones on cars in that generation are supposed to be for "user serviceable" things, like the little sections on the side you'd remove to replace a driving light. They did not stick to this "convention" very well from model to model or even example to example, but it was my understanding that this is what they were going for in that era.

Dunno why. Probably just standard German stuff of overcomplicating poo poo that literally doesn't matter.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

willroc7 posted:

Yeppers. Every DIY video I watched had them as phillips. It is a mystery.

In my non-Porsche expensive german car experience, phillips screws are used by jabroni POs in place of the original torx. There are some limited exceptions. It's best to check the parts reference diagram.

willroc7
Jul 24, 2006

BADGES? WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' BADGES!
Don't get me wrong, I'll take torx over phillips every day.

Ranzear
Jul 25, 2013

Philips is designed to 'cam out' instead of overtighten a screw, which basically means it disengages and strips the head instead. It's the worst loving piece of poo poo design ever but it's what we're stuck with across every industry now.

The irony is using the fastener that strips out for user serviceable stuff instead of the torx that doesn't.

willroc7
Jul 24, 2006

BADGES? WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' BADGES!
I almost couldn't get the one tricky vertical screw out that you access from the fender liner because it's awkwardly placed and phillips. My regular driver was skipping on it and I was just barely able to get it moving with a slightly larger phillips head.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Ranzear posted:

The irony is using the fastener that strips out for user serviceable stuff instead of the torx that doesn't.

It makes sense from a certain perspective. In the save the idiots from themselves end of things its easier to remove a chewed up Phillips screw than rethreading whatever it goes into or replacing a snapped fastener ear or whatever. Also means that rust just leads to stripping more than anything.

The JIS vs Phillips looking identical to the untrained eye also complicates things.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Bajaha posted:

It makes sense from a certain perspective. In the save the idiots from themselves end of things its easier to remove a chewed up Phillips screw than rethreading whatever it goes into or replacing a snapped fastener ear or whatever. Also means that rust just leads to stripping more than anything.

This is certainly what someone made the case for and turned it into a half assed passion project/engineering standard that was barely followed and has mostly gone away.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Holy poo poo my local Porsche dealer has finally started realizing all their used cars don't have a stack of gold bars in the trunk. They've had a low mileage 2020 911 4S Cab forever, original window was $150,280 and they had it priced at 175k until about 5 months ago when they actually raised the price to 184k. Just looked and they've dropped it to $150,687.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi
Lol gently caress paying msrp for a 2020 cab.

Ether Frenzy
Dec 22, 2006




Nap Ghost

This made me honestly laugh out loud. It's so true.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Residency Evil posted:

Lol gently caress paying msrp for a 2020 cab.

Yeah I wouldn’t ever consider it but it’s a lot better than 35k over MSRP for a 2020 cab

Ranzear
Jul 25, 2013

willroc7 posted:

My regular driver was skipping on it and I was just barely able to get it moving with a slightly larger phillips head.

Huge red flag that you weren't using the size that fits already when a size larger went into the screw at all.

There should be no wiggle or gap. Hell, if the screw head points horizontally, a good fitting driver should be able to hang from it.

willroc7
Jul 24, 2006

BADGES? WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' BADGES!

Ranzear posted:

Huge red flag that you weren't using the size that fits already when a size larger went into the screw at all.

There should be no wiggle or gap. Hell, if the screw head points horizontally, a good fitting driver should be able to hang from it.

I'll keep that in mind. This particular one was tricky because it was a blind access where you have to peel back the fender liner with one hand while reaching in to unscrew it from underneath. Also my regular driver had been working perfectly on all the other phillips I had encountered up to that point, so I wasn't expecting any problems. The head did end up having some pretty significant corrosion built up on it as well.

Serrath
Mar 17, 2005

I have nothing of value to contribute
Ham Wrangler
Hi thread, I hope this question is allowed. I asked this same question in the AI stupid questions thread and someone suggested it might be a better question for a more specialised thread

My question is about the "expected" durability of a porche. I am a car novice, I know enough about how to research things and do simple repairs and maintenance by watching online tutorials but I'm not a mechanic nor an expert. I don't know how to phrase my question in a google search.

Near me there is a 2002 porche boxster for sale with 83,000km. The car has a full service history logged at a porche dealership and it looks good, it's in my price range and I want to buy it.

I drive a lot of 90s/early 2000's cars; I have a 2000 miata and a 1996 supra, both with many more km and both run great. If it was a toyota or mazda, I wouldn't be worried about it being 20 years old with 80k km however I don't know anything about sportcars like this and whether they are meant to have the same durability/longevity. Can anyone give an opinion as to whether this car should be expected to still have many years left or should I expect it to be reaching the end of its life? Anything in particular I should be looking for when inspecting it?

Ether Frenzy
Dec 22, 2006




Nap Ghost
Any car can last forever if you just spend an infinite amount of money on it.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

It's a 20 year old car. It could be excellent, it could be a POS.

But, Porsches in general are built pretty well.. but it is 20 years old.

The 986 (Boxster) and 996 (911/Carrera) variants by this point have pretty well all their weaknesses documented. If it has full records, check and see if the IMS was done. That's the big elephant in the room and if it goes your either looking for a new ($20K+) motor, selling your car for parts, or finding a used motor, or many many thousands in repairs if even possible. The Boxster had the issue (as well as the 996/911) and 2002 is right in the middle of the worst of it.

The interior is a solid "meh" but I really don't mind them. They are fun enough cars and 986s are regularly touted as fun driving bargains. At least compared to the more "desirable" 996/911 coupes.

If you buy it with the intention of having a fun weekend car that's cool, but keep in mind you have the Porsche tax even if its old. If you don't work on it yourself (and it WILL need work), they are expensive to work on and a bit of a pain in the rear end unless you have a good reasonably priced indy that has Porsche experience that you can trust. Dealers are notoriously expensive and many of the techs now just aren't working on elder cars like these. Many common wear parts are available on the aftermarket (of varying quality) but some are not. Many, if not most OEM parts are still available but the prices might put you into cardiac arrest if you are used to Japanese or domestic.

Personally, I think the 986/996 is kind of at the sweetspot got Porsche entry if you can get a good one. They are still computerized enough but you don't need all the fancy systems of the later gens to do 99% of the work that an ambitious home wrencher would want to do. 83K KMs (52K miles) isn't super low but obviously not high either. One thing that has been anecdotally noticed are the cars that are driven seem to have less problems than garage queens.

I don't know how many 986 owners we have here but we do have several 996 owners and they share a lot of commonality.

willroc7
Jul 24, 2006

BADGES? WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' BADGES!
slidebite pretty much nailed it with his response. I will add that service records are paramount. Look for things like IMS, RMS, and AOS. If those have been done recently you should be in pretty good shape. If you can, get the cam deviations checked with a durametric scan tool. You don't want anything more than + or - 6 degrees on either side, or it will be needing a timing chain service. Also listen for chain (tensioner) rattle on startup. When cold, it should only rattle for 1-2 seconds and then go away, at worst. If it rattles on warm start, run.

For reference, I bought a 996 with 65k on it last year and have put ~5k miles on it, basically trouble-free so far. But mine had the IMS, RMS, and AOS done in 2018.

I have also come with a question. I've got this discoloration in the front bumper grille insert that I was thinking was overspray, but I'm seeing it in pictures of other non-silver cars. I am wanting to try to correct it back to black with cerakote trim wipes, but I'm wondering what's the best way to remove what is on there first?


flash on:


from another, black, car:

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I'm not sure what you're asking? What are you trying to make black on your silver car?

willroc7
Jul 24, 2006

BADGES? WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' BADGES!

slidebite posted:

I'm not sure what you're asking? What are you trying to make black on your silver car?

Yes, it's a black plasticy-rubber grille insert that seems to get discolored silver despite the body color of the car. It should be black like the center part of it is (center is right in my first pic).

edit: this thing
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/9965055530401C.htm?pn=996-505-553-04-01C-OEM

willroc7 fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Dec 2, 2022

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Mine is starting to wear as well although not as bad as that bottom sample photo of yours. I didn't know it was supposed to be black as in actual material color, I just thought it was worn off body color paint.

Are you just going to buy a new one? For that price I don't know if I'd bother trying to paint.

Jymmybob
Jun 26, 2000

Grimey Drawer
It's UV damage and the best way to fix it is using a trim restorer which basically replace the damaged surface oil/polymer then provide some extra UV and weather resistance. The shop that did the wrap and ceramic on mine also redid all the black plastic with restorer and they still look fine after 5 years although without much outdoor time.

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer
Was about to say, that's UV-damaged plastic for sure.

willroc7
Jul 24, 2006

BADGES? WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' BADGES!
Thanks, that’s what I was hoping to confirm. Time to test out these cerakote trim wipes!

another loser
Mar 25, 2001
Okay, time to tackle replacing the Japanese aftermarket stereo in the Cayenne. Should be easy 20 minute swap.

Here is an image from the internet of what the stereo harness should look like:


Here is what mine looks like:



Sigh. Look like the previous owner made a few modifications. I've got the new head unit powered up, but the plug for all the speakers has been cut and spliced....

Bass Ackwards
Nov 14, 2003

Anything can be used as a hammer if you try hard enough.


Fffffuuuuu...

Haven't driven my base 987.1 in a couple of months, got the CEL with this code after about 100km after getting it out of storage, gave it a service 2 days ago and cleared the code, and it's back again this morning.

Ordered a set of downstream oxygen sensors. May as well start with the cheapest option first - I'm crossing my fingers that I don't have a failed cat.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Bass Ackwards posted:



Fffffuuuuu...

Haven't driven my base 987.1 in a couple of months, got the CEL with this code after about 100km after getting it out of storage, gave it a service 2 days ago and cleared the code, and it's back again this morning.

Ordered a set of downstream oxygen sensors. May as well start with the cheapest option first - I'm crossing my fingers that I don't have a failed cat.

What does the live data look like from it? I'd start by graphing it and see if it's even alive. If it's alive and the graph mirrors the upstream it's not the downstream sensor that's your problem.

That's a nice scanner. Use it for diagnostics.

Bass Ackwards
Nov 14, 2003

Anything can be used as a hammer if you try hard enough.

Motronic posted:

What does the live data look like from it? I'd start by graphing it and see if it's even alive. If it's alive and the graph mirrors the upstream it's not the downstream sensor that's your problem.

That's a nice scanner. Use it for diagnostics.

Yeah. I’m dumb. I’m so used to having a plain old code reader I forgot that I can use this for more than just clearing codes and resetting the service reminder. *facepalm*

I’ll have a look at the graphs. I don’t mind replacing all four sensors anyway because I’m unsure of the actual mileage on this engine… It was changed before I bought the car, and I have no idea if the exhaust manifolds (and and sensors and cats) were from the original engine or the replacement.

Bass Ackwards
Nov 14, 2003

Anything can be used as a hammer if you try hard enough.
Put two cans of our local equivalent of Cataclean in half a tank of fresh fuel yesterday afternoon, and drove the snot out of it for about 150km.

It's gone from having the P0421 code appearing as pending during every drive cycle (with me clearing it before it sets) with the catalyst and oxygen sensor monitors incomplete, to the code no longer appearing and all of my emissions monitors complete.

The only anomaly now is that bank 1 sensor 2 is a little laggy in it's response. It does almost exactly follow what bank 2 sensor 2 does, it's just slightly slower to sync up with it when the engine load changes.

The upstream sensors are both pretty much identical.

Other than that, the graphs look pretty much spot on. The idle has smoothed out, the fuel economy has improved, and it no longer smells like it's running as rich when it's idling.

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

A new corporate benefits thing just came through and includes discounts on new cars. 15% off at Porsche! Must... Resist...

(Also 25% off Audi or BMW but meh)

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Aquila
Jan 24, 2003

I'm shopping for a 718 Boxster and trying to figure out which options are worth considering or if I should order one.

Performance/handling options:
Active Suspension (PASM)
Differential (PTV)
Power steering plus
Extended fuel tank (2.6 more gallons)
Wheels (which size wheel will have the best tire options)

Comfort:
Ventilated seats (I've had a roadster before, this seems like a must)
14 or 18 way seats

Convenience:
Lane change assist (seems nice to have)
Adaptive cruise control (seems nice to have)
Porsche Entry
Upgraded stereo
Nav
Led or Bi-Xenon headlights (two different options, cost about the same, is one better or worse?)

Sales guy said that 2024 will likely be the last model year of the Boxster, is there any validity to this? I'm looking for a second fun car to drive, have garage, paid for suv that I'm keeping, etc. I can't see much reason to go for a T, S, GTS, or Spyder.

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