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VelociBacon posted:If you already have a supra (faster) and a miata (better handling) I can't say I understand why you'd want a boxter but yeah. Because you're absolutely wrong about a miata handling better. It's not even close. The engine isn't even in the right place for it to handle better. The only real issues with these are the IMS shaft. The rest of the issues are that it's formerly a much more expensive car that you are accustomed to dealing with and the parts prices show. It's going to require more tools/space/a lift to do some major work that would be possible without in a front engine car. Porsche has has consistently been in the JD Power, etc ratings as one of the more reliable brands/most reliable models. They are simply built well with quality parts moreso than most other manufacturers can or choose to do. They have their own stupidity from time to time (like the IMS thing which isn't a thing at all if you drive the car like it's a sports car) but there is a huge enthusiast community and therefore a lot of DIY support if that's your kind of thing. E: They are also premium products and feel as such. There is almost no comparison on interiors and the look ad feel of the things you directly interact with, even in the early 2000s when the porsche interiors were at their cheapest. The fit and finish just isn't reasonably comparable with regular production japanese or whoever else's cars but you probably already know that just by sitting in one providing it's a well sorted example. Motronic fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Dec 2, 2022 |
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Dec 2, 2022 15:07
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Just thought you guys would like a quick followup on my door ajar sensor issue on the 07 Camry. I used Gorilla duct tape and just taped the poo poo out of it to hold it down. That spring really didn't want to cooperate but it's held for several days so far, so thanks again.
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Dec 2, 2022 16:52
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Why is finding OEM parts such a pain in the rear end? Trying to get the p/ns for the brakes and rotors for my Grand Cherokee. Great, there's a mopar parts website. Put the VIN in, and it can't find it. Okay.. select '2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee High Altitude' and pick 'front brakes.' There are 7 different options, all with different prices, each with a description that solely reads, "Rotor. Front." Just tell me what shipped with my car. gently caress. Edit: I called the parts department at the dealership. Probably should have started there. Also everything was $400 more expensive on Mopar's parts website versus ordering through a 3rd party reseller. Strife fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Dec 2, 2022 |
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Dec 2, 2022 17:35
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I've been spoiled as gently caress for a long time because the PDF edition of the factory parts catalogs for all years of XJ and MJ jeeps got leaked decades ago and I've been able to simply look it up myself using the same documents as the dealer parts counter. Unfortunately this does not extend to models that new, nor my FSJs.
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Dec 2, 2022 18:58
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erosion posted:Just thought you guys would like a quick followup on my door ajar sensor issue on the 07 Camry. I used Gorilla duct tape and just taped the poo poo out of it to hold it down. That spring really didn't want to cooperate but it's held for several days so far, so thanks again. Why not drop the $20 on a new switch instead of leaving a mess of adhesive to deal with when it finally breaks completely? It's not meant to be depressed to the point that the "spring didn't want to cooperate". It's 1 screw and 1 wire.
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Dec 2, 2022 19:00
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Does anyone remember 6 or 7 years ago where someone tracked down a no-start condition to a driver's side mirror, either the mirror defroster or the power mirror motor? I swear it was on some flavor of mid-late aughts GM where they routed the power to some critical function through there.
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Dec 2, 2022 19:30
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STR posted:Why not drop the $20 on a new switch instead of leaving a mess of adhesive to deal with when it finally breaks completely? It's not meant to be depressed to the point that the "spring didn't want to cooperate". It's 1 screw and 1 wire. This, and that duct tape will not last long at all. spookykid posted:Does anyone remember 6 or 7 years ago where someone tracked down a no-start condition to a driver's side mirror, either the mirror defroster or the power mirror motor? I swear it was on some flavor of mid-late aughts GM where they routed the power to some critical function through there. I'm 99% sure it was a Mopar.
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Dec 2, 2022 20:40
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STR posted:Why not drop the $20 on a new switch instead of leaving a mess of adhesive to deal with when it finally breaks completely? It's not meant to be depressed to the point that the "spring didn't want to cooperate". It's 1 screw and 1 wire. IOwnCalculus posted:This, and that duct tape will not last long at all. Neither will the car, it's beat to poo poo.
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Dec 2, 2022 20:46
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spookykid posted:Does anyone remember 6 or 7 years ago where someone tracked down a no-start condition to a driver's side mirror, either the mirror defroster or the power mirror motor? I swear it was on some flavor of mid-late aughts GM where they routed the power to some critical function through there. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3812091
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Dec 2, 2022 20:50
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Inner Light posted:I dunno about your car but check Pro Clip USA. They are the thread consensus for best mounts in the business, but you'll pay for them. I am a cheap bastard so I use an unstable vent clip. Long overdue update but thanks for this suggestion. Been using it for a while and it rocks. Or rather, it doesn't rock because other styles of mounts or cheaper ones tend to shake and rattle.
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Dec 2, 2022 20:57
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If the tape comes loose, add some gel superglue to the button when you tape it back in place
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Dec 2, 2022 20:57
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It's just as good as I remembered, thank you.
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Dec 2, 2022 21:11
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Whole thread is a quality click
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Dec 2, 2022 21:22
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I should probably post the coda: Intrepid ran great for the next three years. I sold it to a friend of mine for $3000 in 2018; she put another 45,000 miles on it - almost to 200K. It died on the way to New Hampshire in 2020 when it finally succumbed the way all 2.7s do: blown head gasket, water/oil mix, fried rotating assemblies etc.
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Dec 3, 2022 00:20
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Oh jeez I had a hand-me-down Intrepid back then. I put like $2000 into repairing the AC for the summer and then the whole engine block cracked in half a week later, or whatever the gently caress it is they do to self-destruct. I don't think I've ever owned a car with more sunk cost than that.
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Dec 3, 2022 00:34
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PainterofCrap posted:I should probably post the coda: Shame. If it would have made it to 2021 she could have sold it for like 10 grand.
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Dec 3, 2022 01:14
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Does anyone know if they ever made right hand drive Honda Odysseys for the US market, maybe for mail carriers or something? I saw one today and I’m having trouble thinking someone would go through the trouble of importing a RHD Honda minivan from outside the US.
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Dec 3, 2022 01:19
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skipdogg posted:Does anyone know if they ever made right hand drive Honda Odysseys for the US market, maybe for mail carriers or something? I saw one today and I’m having trouble thinking someone would go through the trouble of importing a RHD Honda minivan from outside the US. You'd think so, wouldn't you? https://www.jdmcarandmotorcycle.com/details/used-1997-honda-odyssey/84765460 
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Dec 3, 2022 02:35
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2002 Honda Civic, battery light was coming on below 1.5k RPM, and battery slowly died while driving. Put a new battery in and the light continues to stay on when the RPM's are low. That pretty much screams worn out alternator, right?
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Dec 3, 2022 11:41
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Unless you have major belt slipping (which would make noise and probably smell), I'd say so.
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Dec 3, 2022 12:05
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I've never personally experienced it before, but has anyone else ever run across just a bad tank of gas? My wife's parents were driving their Acura SUV across country, not long after stopping for fuel, the car started missing and the check engine light came on. They powered on with it doing that the whole way home, they fueled up again half an hour from home, and the next morning there was no miss fire anymore, no check engine light, and they had it scanned and there were no codes.
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Dec 3, 2022 21:34
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tactlessbastard posted:I've never personally experienced it before, but has anyone else ever run across just a bad tank of gas? My wife's parents were driving their Acura SUV across country, not long after stopping for fuel, the car started missing and the check engine light came on. They powered on with it doing that the whole way home, they fueled up again half an hour from home, and the next morning there was no miss fire anymore, no check engine light, and they had it scanned and there were no codes. Yes. And you WILL find then when traveling through less populated areas. This is why you need to "travel on the top half of your tank". Chances are a lot better than with only a half a tank of bad fuel you'll still get to somewhere safe. You near home and too lazy to get gas? Fine. You really out there on the highway? Fill up at half a tank or sooner.
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Dec 3, 2022 22:27
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tactlessbastard posted:I've never personally experienced it before, but has anyone else ever run across just a bad tank of gas? My wife's parents were driving their Acura SUV across country, not long after stopping for fuel, the car started missing and the check engine light came on. They powered on with it doing that the whole way home, they fueled up again half an hour from home, and the next morning there was no miss fire anymore, no check engine light, and they had it scanned and there were no codes. Did they get gas at some pondunk shithole in Idaho off i84? If so, I had the same loving experience.
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Dec 4, 2022 00:02
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tactlessbastard posted:I've never personally experienced it before, but has anyone else ever run across just a bad tank of gas? My wife's parents were driving their Acura SUV across country, not long after stopping for fuel, the car started missing and the check engine light came on. They powered on with it doing that the whole way home, they fueled up again half an hour from home, and the next morning there was no miss fire anymore, no check engine light, and they had it scanned and there were no codes. Also yes but saw it at a garage when people brought their cars in for said cel and or miss. Sounds like you're good this time but have seen a few engine swaps or rebuilds at on the gas stations dime.
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Dec 4, 2022 01:27
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tactlessbastard posted:I've never personally experienced it before, but has anyone else ever run across just a bad tank of gas? My wife's parents were driving their Acura SUV across country, not long after stopping for fuel, the car started missing and the check engine light came on. They powered on with it doing that the whole way home, they fueled up again half an hour from home, and the next morning there was no miss fire anymore, no check engine light, and they had it scanned and there were no codes. we got a bad tank of diesel at a fuel dock once, up near stockton, ca. which might as well be in alabama. sucked up a big blob of stringy algae, clogged up my fuel lines and suction was pulling air into my fuel line. i am now a pro expert at bleeding yanmar 2/3/4 cylinder diesels from the late 1990s until I got home and cleaned and/or replaced the fuel lines pretty sure algae does not/cannot grow in gas though
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Dec 4, 2022 02:07
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Anyone have a brand of outdoor car cover they like? For some reason my wife thinks she deserves one of our garage spots rather than them being allocated based solely on current value in which case her car would be relegated to the driveway.
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Dec 4, 2022 04:03
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bird with big dick posted:Anyone have a brand of outdoor car cover they like? For some reason my wife thinks she deserves one of our garage spots rather than them being allocated based solely on current value in which case her car would be relegated to the driveway. These things are not cheap but tailored to your car and super good quality: http://www.carnewal.com/products/All/p080/Car-Cover-Outdoor-Future
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Dec 4, 2022 04:46
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I have a 2003 suburban with 165k miles where the battery is going dead, requiring a jump. It has a Duralast Platinum AGM battery, 3 years old. The battery has tested as "good" at AutoZone several times this week, but the voltage was always too low to test the alternator. I then bought a NoCo Genius 5 charger and left it on overnight in the 12v "AGM" mode. In the morning, I have full bars on the charger so I disconnect it, drive 3mi to AutoZone and get the same result. "Your battery is good, but the voltage is too low to test the alternator" What should I do next? I'm sick of having them unable to test, and I really want to be sure the alternator is the problem before I drop $200 on a new one.
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Dec 4, 2022 19:24
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Get a multimeter and check the voltage, it should be between 13.5 and 14.5 volts or so when charging. If your battery is at say 12.5 volts, and you start the car but it stays the same and even dropping over time, your alternator isn't working.
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Dec 4, 2022 19:38
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Or take the alternator off and have them test it separately, they have a test dyno they can stick it on. This could also be beneficial in case the reason the alternator isn't charging is not actually the alternator itself, but due to a cabling/control issue instead. But I agree with spankmeister, a basic voltage check will probably tell you that your alternator isn't doing a drat thing, and the dipshit at the parts store should've been able to suggest as much instead of saying "it's still too low". Hmm, why might it be low?
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Dec 4, 2022 21:38
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spankmeister posted:Get a multimeter and check the voltage, it should be between 13.5 and 14.5 volts or so when charging. If your battery is at say 12.5 volts, and you start the car but it stays the same and even dropping over time, your alternator isn't working. Thanks! I got the following with my multimeter. Battery 12.49v before ignition (6hrs on charger) Started car, no issues. Idle, read 14.49v Wait 5min High load (front and rear heat, all lights on) read 14.34v Wait 5min Idle (no lights or heat) read 14.44v After about 10min I shut the car off, and the battery read 12.39v Next step is to drive it around and then test with the multimeter. It certainly doesn't seem to be the alternator, unless it's a bearing issue or something where the alternator kicks on only sometimes, or under certain conditions?
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Dec 5, 2022 00:31
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Let the car sit several hours and check battery voltage again. Sounds like your alternator is fine though.
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Dec 5, 2022 01:41
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Accord Update I loving did it. Me and my brother in law got some vice grips and needle nose pliers from AutoZone . We had to take the intake and the distributor off like the video said and really had to gently caress with the hose to get it off and the new ones on. I read the car manual and some YouTube's then burped the radiator. Yay! Car runs again! Thanks for letting me know I could fix this, it was like $50 including antifreeze and a trip to the weed store
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Dec 5, 2022 06:52
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STR posted:Let the car sit several hours and check battery voltage again. Sounds like your alternator is fine though. Yep on both counts. Either your battery is roasted or you've got a parasitic draw. Beer_Suitcase posted:Accord Update  And now you've got some pliers next time you need to grab something really hard.
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Dec 5, 2022 07:39
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Beer_Suitcase posted:Accord Update Congrats that's awesome.
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Dec 5, 2022 13:05
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Beer_Suitcase posted:Accord Update Well done! Now is the time to celebrate! 
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Dec 5, 2022 17:43
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Beer_Suitcase posted:Accord Update Hell yeah!! Nice work! You were going on some road trip with it too weren't you? It went off without a hitch I hope?
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Dec 5, 2022 18:39
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wesleywillis posted:Hell yeah!! Road trip is at the top of the year, but I also have to get my struts replaced according to the nice man at Les Schwab. This is just a good excuse to make sure all the other car parts are looking good. I need a project honestly
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Dec 5, 2022 18:46
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I have been driving my shitheap 2005 Chevy ~*Avalanche*~ for about a year now, slowly fixing and replacing critical things. One thing I am curious about is the sound I get when I turn the steering wheel all the way to lock. There is a significant buzzing sound when the wheel reaches the limit either to the left or right. Not a grinding or rubbing noise, just a sort of "bzzzzz". Typical decaying GMT800 stuff or something that would be concerning?
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Dec 5, 2022 19:38
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therunningman posted:I have been driving my shitheap 2005 Chevy ~*Avalanche*~ for about a year now, slowly fixing and replacing critical things. One thing I am curious about is the sound I get when I turn the steering wheel all the way to lock. There is a significant buzzing sound when the wheel reaches the limit either to the left or right. Not a grinding or rubbing noise, just a sort of "bzzzzz". Typical decaying GMT800 stuff or something that would be concerning? Check your power steering fluid level.
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Dec 5, 2022 19:43
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