Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
Theres something to be said about just plugging in with a laptop to adjust timing vs loving around with springs and weights and other poo poo like that. I'm just glad that's the one part of my old tractor that's never given me any grief.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
usually these things just work with no care or thought from the owner. But because I'm difficult...

I haven't really screwed with this pump outside of initially setting it up when I got the truck because it smoked SO MUCH. Then again when I turbocharged it in 2019. If you look at the leaf spring assembly on the rollers there's a screw there that preloads the rollers and sets its maximum delivery. More preload for more fuel, less for less. Don't get too carried away or the leaf spring will crack. The later pumps have a bunch of other settings but on this one, this is it. We will learn more about this pump that's giving me fits soon enough.


Typical life is 100,000 miles for the pump/injectors with the original 80% 15 micron filter. Stanadyne says 80% of 5micron should be what's used... I run a pair of filters with a 10 micron roughing, a 80 micron integrated with the lift pump, and 80% of 2 micron + water separator before it reaches the injection pump. It's been this way since mid 2016 and probably about the only reason the pump has lasted as long as it has. I made the joke the other day that I have north of three thousand dollars of modifications hanging off a hundred dollar engine.


Electronic is inherently better. quieter. more powerful. less smoggy. runs cooler. This mechanical stuff is obsolete. A purely mechanical system is cool as hell to me.
I also made some solid coin back in the day overhauling fuel injector driver modules.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
One of the things I wanted to do while crossing the great expanse that is America's Heartland was to try the contrasting barbecue styles between St Louis and Kansas City.


I didn't get to do that. By the time we made it to Kansas the truck's doing poorly.
Pulled into a KOA for the night there and the trucks running rough and banging like all hell. Its pissing oil at a rate I threw cardboard under it to not wreck the campground's site.

The intake is pooling with oil pretty badly. I found some forum post somewhere that when a turbo is installed on these engines that the CDR (this dumb engine's specific jargon for a hanky janky pcv system) baffle needs to be punched out or it does exactly this. Now this engine has been in service with a turbo for about 20 thousand miles now and half that towing this heavy rear end camper. It wasn't a problem till like a day ago.

But I digress. I'll pull the loving turbo.

It's sounding.... less than ideal. No seriously. Listen.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFCwYlmSaPE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKT1SbfUFro

Is it bad timing due to the broken timing advance or is it a bad cylinder? Time will soon tell for we won't know till it all comes apart.


First up. Oh poo poo. Maybe the turbo is eating itself.

I fired a email off to the guy that built this asking a few questions and if there's a possibility that I could have nuked this fine piece of engineering.

I picked a Topeka harbor freight parkinglot for this misdeed.


As you can see its making a hell of a mess. Its still at operating temperature so everything is pretty warmed over. Least risk of broken bolts but all this stuff is barely 3 years old.





Button it up. Hit the road.
Pull in for oil, fuel, and gorbage.

Stop ruining the loving bike you loving four wheel drive tool shed.

We're making it to Colorado hell or high water today. 450 miles.

Maybe its 'hell or low oil'. It lost a half gallon of oil in under 100 miles trying to run on the turbo. Restricted engine to atmospheric compensation only and 55mph. It runs a lot cooler and uses a lot less oil this way.








Perhaps the CDR is now causing issues and pressurizing the crankcase. Pulled it and cleaned the atmospheric pressure air hole.




That wasn't the problem.

We made it to Limon, CO at a Loves truckstop for the night. Drove 450 miles. Lost 1.5 gallons of oil.
The next morning I check over the pump and sourcing a new injection pump. The best lead time from a reputable builder is 6-8 weeks out. We'll be snowed out by then.
But! There's a heavy equipment supplier in town and they might be the ones that can help me.

I'm checking the pump drive shaft for axial play. There's a collar inside that has clearly broken. the later pumps have solved for this but maybe this one has ruined itself so bad that this collar has also been damaged.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lf8WQ9ogPKI

Here's a hint. These aren't supposed to have any visible shaft play at all. If we map the .005 allowable shaft play to something more... tangible. This pump's shaft is moving the distance between Kansas City and Denver when it should be like... Kansas City and North Kansas City.
I never heard back from the guy that built the turbo. My stress through all of this is somewhere around a 14 out of 5 and I'm rapidly undoing all of the good habits I picked up in this lifestyle. In December of 2022, I am still trying to pare down the weight I put on during this time.
This is also one of the last spots where this engine started without requiring the block heater despite being well above freezing.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

cursedshitbox posted:

First up. Oh poo poo. Maybe the turbo is eating itself.

I fired a email off to the guy that built this asking a few questions and if there's a possibility that I could have nuked this fine piece of engineering.

I wanna runaway, runaway
Little time left to runaway
Every time I get somewhere
I wanna runaway runaway
I feel like I'm losing control
Maybe I should let myself go
'Cause this is so predictable


FML, now I have that stuck in my head. And Donkey sounds angry. :smith: Good idea running sans turbo, since the turbo does appear to be a bit.. moist. Unless most of that is from PCV?

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Nov 28, 2022

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
I'm legit impressed it didn't run away. At the time I thought it was coming from its pcv. Maybe the turbo seals.

New pump through this supplier ordered. Maybe a week lead time. It's for the factory turbo 94.5 engine with all the mechanical updates and a few extra screws I can turn to better configure the pump for the task.

A night at a KOA in strassburg, CO with full drat hookups, a grill, and our own private patio.


I cleaned the oil off the back at the truck stop.

Unfortunately I didn't have any grilling things and yeah this fucker isn't moving for the night.

While in the area I'm gonna work out where I can swap the pump without getting heckled.

RV park in Denver itself. Burning more time. Getting closer to the pump.

Nice dodge flatbed. The frame on this probably wouldn't have broken. Same with its Bosch injection pump.


The fragged pump is doing a stand up job considering. The old adage that american cars will run like poo poo longer than most will run at all. This is one of em.

(Google literally can't process a plot of this size so it started over on me)
We've been 12,027 miles over 11 months.

Onto the next campground. The truck won't really start on its own anymore so I plug it in for at least 2-3 hours before leaving. Something is wrong with its block heater and its tripping the GFCI on the external outlet of the camper.
Works fine off of the pedestal though.
On startup the truck smoked the place out. Ugh.


Rando bike park. I didn't get to ride it as it started raining right when I got there.


Six lugs? you don't need all of them. 5 will do. Send it!


Brandy new CDR valve.


This did not in fact solve the problem.


A nights stay at the cherry creek state park. Walked 5 miles in the dark for some fresh Thai food. Asked for Thai hot, got savory. Can't complain.
Truck is leaking all of its things as it slowly comes the gently caress apart.

We have $25/gallon bespoke artisanal coolant puddles..


Engine oil of varying quality and grades.

I simple greened and scrubbed the pad before I left. Ugh.

And even diesel fuel from the front tank's sending unit seal.

This thing is doing a mighty fine job of making me look like an incompetent owner.
I can't stand it when my shitheaps leak and smoke. The days when I was into Rovers were trouble alright. I mostly lived with those as the leaks can't be stopped, only slowed for a short time.

Because we're going to be a lot more reliant on our bikes and it is now winter, a pop into REI to buy a few bike lights and some horns for them.
This place is e n o r m o u s. Probably the biggest REI I've been to so far. It's in an old 1901 converted Powerhouse. They saved and repurposed the building.
https://mithun.com/project/rei-denver-flagship-store/






Hellooooooo gorgeous. At the rate the truck eats parts I'm gonna need one to haul more parts.

I was originally after a Salsa Fargo. Guy sold it out from under me during the bike shortage of 2020. Settled on the S-Beater.
Which its been a fine and mostly reliable bike. Just not a gravel trawler made of steel with 27 racks attached to it.

They even have a little test track for bikes :3:




Hon where'd we leave the car?

Oh right. Things that can't be done with a classA or a trailer.

I now have a pump! And a stack of supporting parts, and a location to install it all. Out in 50 miles east from middle of nowhere, 2 miles from Hell.

cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Nov 30, 2022

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Sitrep
A pile of parts for our misdeed. And some King Arthur to fuel the progress of misdeeds.


A brand fuckin new 94.5 factory turbo injection pump from Stanadyne themselves.

This one has some nice upgrades over the old one like a screw setting that allows me to adjust low rpm fueling.

Where the misdeeds will take place.


And... some.. curious... locals?




And let's do this. I've figured out a way to get the pump out without pulling the turbo.


The noodly appendage comes out in one big mess and will get broken down on this toolbox door with the lines reused on the new pump.



uncanny messy valley. The spring is the return spring for the throttle lever. It's not lost.


Such a messy engine. This reminds me of the days of playing equipment mechanic on fresh from auction junk with 20 thousand hours.




While it's apart. 8 brand new glowplugs. I haven't done these since 2016 and might as well while it is easy to get at them all.


Transfer the injection lines. Build up the new pump. Drop it in. Time it statically.



While I'm in here. Valve cover gaskets from 2016 can go.



Then button it all up, bleed the fuel system, and go for a drive.

It sounds....different. Angry. Smells like grandmas old IH tractor too. ???
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2kk58H4xl0
This is the cold timing advance system working properly for the first time since I've had the truck.
I had it timed slightly too aggressive and backed it off. Go for a drive. 60mph it's hitting the high-temp warning of my digital pyrometer at 650C. ???
Drop back to 55 and it's running 550C-600C... that's way too hot. Especially on flat land.
Turn the pump's maximum fueling down 1/4 turn.
No change. ????

Pull the dipstick.

gently caress. It was full when I left..... 20 miles earlier. That's two and a half quarts down.

For a moment though I wanna turn attention to the old pump.


DB2-4369. AKA for a 1984 6.9L diesel. Lovely.

I much later learn the injection lines are also for a 6.9. And therefore slightly smaller. Maybe this is my high egt problem?

Remanufactured probably in the first Bush administration. Then put onto this engine why? Because Farm poo poo. That's why.


Let's have a look inside at the rotor.

That is not supposed to be gouged up to the point of catching a fingernail. That's 5 thousandths of an inch in imperial.
The drive shaft?
Equally destroyed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F84T-OpCURc

I'm amazed this engine ran at all. Let alone ran well enough to pull a three ton camper cross country.

The last couple times I've had this thing apart the factory 94 turbo heat shrouds fell apart. Ok they were never really good anyway. Super sharp. And generally dragged the place down. There's far better options now.



At least the lights still work.

UCS Hellmaker
Mar 29, 2008
Toilet Rascal
my god my blue balls rn

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



I see that beautiful landscape that you are situated in and all I can think is "you'd better fix it, or you've found your new permanent residence."

You get permission to work there? Federal grazing land? (yes, very East-Coast thinking)

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
I.. didn't. Just blm land. I ensure no trace or damage to the local ecology.


Post all this. I pull into a truck stop and get froggy.
I crawl under the truck to find oil on the exhaust.

Oil on exhaust cooks off quick. This shouldn't be here.

I unbolt the crossover pipe you see snaking to the right in the photo.
My spouse starts the engine up with more or less open exhaust.
Left bank. No smoke. Hits fine.
Right bank. Smoke. Oil. Doesn't sound right.

I start pulling glow plugs on the right bank.
This is cylinder #7. It is also way down on compression and out of spec. This is a brand new glowplug


Ok uh I got my answer. Something is wrong here.

Meanwhile.


Side note, KTMS!
Where is mine? Storage. Because. Of. This. loving. Truck.


Yet another campground at Boyd Lake State Park. This time with a rental Nissan Versa.
If there is a hell it's where Nissan Versas are your bailout car.

We did not beat Snow Season.


Another run through REI. I love the aesthetic of this place.


Running around Denver has its share of interesting rigs. This Freightliner is about the size of what I should be running.

This person is straight up living the dream.



Enough distractions. Uncle Jeffs bazar of bullshit has delivered a boroscope to me and we can check out the bores!
Start by pulling injectors.

Wait... what? There's English injectors in this truck? They're supposed to be from a reputable seller. Just throw that on the ever growing list of PO fuckery.

Got all four out. They don't look so hot.
[

Cue the trusty ol heavily modified X230 to work on the ol heavily modified 7.3


#5. Inconel precup is cracked at the portal to the cylinder. Lots of soot. Its hitting but probably burning oil.

#7. Inconel precup is cracked at the portal to the cylinder. Piston is unnaturally clean. Piston looks cracked. Not likely hitting and getting washed down with fuel.


The 6.9/7.3 IDI is what I call a "disposamotor". They're parent bore like most gasoline engines with non replaceable liners. I can't just drop another piston/cylinder combo into #7 and keep on truckin.

I found a 1994.5 factory turbo engine from a crashed truck in Phoenix some 900 miles away. I'm gonna make a run for it.

El Jebus
Jun 18, 2008

This avatar is paid for by "Avatars for improving Lowtax's spine by any means that doesn't result in him becoming brain dead by putting his brain into a cyborg body and/or putting him in a exosuit due to fears of the suit being hacked and crushing him during a cyberpunk future timeline" Foundation
I feel like we are going to see a campsite engine swap in 6 feet of snow, up hills, both ways, carrying a camper trailer on CSB's back...

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Campsite? :lol:

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

cursedshitbox posted:

I kinda dig the abandoned building aspect for urbex. Buuuut I might be an outlier there.

I'll have to roll through German Ridge next time, that's a little bit of a drive off the freeway and we had a snowstorm in the rockies to beat.

This is another sidetrack tech post where instead of an update you all get some institutional knowledge that's going to become increasingly important over the next few weeks.


How do diesels work? How does mechanical injection pumps work? Carburetor principles. AKA loving magic. That's how.

But no, not really.

If you're not familiar this is your standard diesel thermodynamic model. It's similar to how a gasser works in a way but it's also vastly different. With compression ratios anywhere between 15-22:1 there's no need for a spark plug. The air is heated beyond the autoignition point of diesel through the forces of compression alone. Where in a gasser your spark plug would fire near tdc for the power cycle, it is now replaced with your fuel source that operates for the same reason.
https://i.imgur.com/96q9Qrs.mp4

You with me? Awesome. In a gasser timing is very important for the power output and efficiency of the engine. In some cases it'll even ruin the engine itself if it is too far advanced. Diesels care about this sorta thing too. However, they're also a lot more robust. Too far advanced or non advanced and it'll lead to wasted fuel, smoke, high exhaust gas temps, damaged glowplugs if it has them.

There's a bit of a technology divide with more modern engines. Cars are going through this now with port injected being the old way and direct injection being the new hot thing on the block. Smaller engines went through a phase where they were indirectly injected. Saved on fuel system development costs. Made for a (smoggier) but more efficient engine. It packaged smaller. It's quieter in operation which is important to customers with discerning ears. Not that any of us could tell.

This Old Farm Truck is of the Indirect variety. Dirt rear end simple. With a compression ratio of 21.5:1 it'll run on nearly anything but water. Do not give it water.

The engines of this era used what's called a poppet valve for an injector. no electronic controls. Just a mechanical pintle and a preset spring.

It stays closed until the pump sends high pressure fuel its way that overcomes the spring force and forces the pintle open.
The leak off line is there as a return and to smooth out any water hammer like effects that you'd see in a house. The pintle/spring and delivery valve can be quite harsh and this is its damper.


Still with me here? No? oh well. We're doing this anyway and can't stop won't stop.
I'm going to ignore unit injectors and focus on the rotary pump since that's what this truck has. It has a rotary element like a distributor does for an old car. Each injector has its own line. Every line is carefully routed to not have excessive lengths than its adjacent cylinders or else it'd cause timing issues with the fuel pulses.

This is the Roosa Master DB2 injection pump. There's a lotta poo poo going on here. Don't worry, it's not that difficult.

Fuel enters at #3 and travels between 3-6 then jumping to number 11. The rest of the system controls how much and when


(#12 the inset is an air bleed for the head)

An exploded view.


And its hydraulic diagram. It's fairly simple, not to worry.


Let's start where fuel enters the system. The Transfer pump.
Fuel comes in from the right. Pressurized, and leaves to the left. It comes with a built in pressure regulator that you see above. It's a rotary vane style pump. This is a major wear item in the db2.
It's not the high pressure delivery pump but rather the supply pump for it. It requires a lift pump from the fuel tank to feed the transfer pump.


Being a rotary vane, we've all seen them before. Air injection (smog) pumps, air conditioning system vacuum pumps, diesel supplemental vacuum pumps, all use the same style of pump.

The rotary vanes and their swept surface are the wear item.
Side view of the same system.

The thin plate and regulator also make up the viscosity compensation system. The orifice allows leakage of fuel to return to the inlet side of the pump. Flow through this orifice is unaffected by viscosity changes. Biasing pressure exerted on the backside of the piston is determined by the leakage past the designed clearance of the piston in the regulator bore and the pressure drop through the orifice. With cold fuel, there's little leakage. With hot fuel, leakage increases. Fuel pressure in the spring cavity increases also. The increase in pressure helps the regulating spring.


This is the drive shaft with the transfer pump at the very end and the all speed mechanical advance with the high pressure plunger assembly at the other end.


From here fuel makes its way to the head. Here it is pumped to the required 1700PSI pressure and primed as the rotor spins. When the rotor gets to the the required cylinder passage fuel is then sent into the delivery valve that meters the start/stop operation of the injection sequence, then it makes its way to the injector where it can get on with business.


The rotor assembly with the all speed mechanical advance and transfer pump relative pressures.

The high pressure charging cycle. As the rotor spins there's two passages in the rotor that registers with the charging annulus. Fuel from the transfer pump controlled by the metering valve flows into the pumping chamber forcing the plungers apart. The plungers move proportional to the fuel required for injection on the next cycle.

The 'high pressure' circuit with the delivery valve and discharge fitting. The delivery valve is designed to create a sharp cutoff between injection pressure and not injection pressure. It reduces residual leakage which can lead to smoke, high egt, poor fuel consumption, etc.

When injection starts, the delivery valve moved slightly out of its bore and adds the volume of its displacement section "A" to the delivery valve spring chamber.

#12 in the above inset is a bleed valve. Basically this is its operation is to bleed the head.


The all speed mechanical advance.

This is its circuit feeding with transfer pump fuel on the left and housing pressure to the right.

The purpose here is to provide a mechanical timing advance based on rpm and status of load.

The plunger assembly at the bottom does all the brain work while the rotor does the gruntwork.

The transfer pump pressure has to overcome the nearby spring and the dynamic injection loading on the cam in order to change the cam's position. The reed valve prevents the cam from returning to its non advanced position during injection by trapping fuel in the piston chamber. This bore is a wear item. Fuel will leak down and the advance gets rather lazy if at all operational. The leaf spring is known for cracking at high miles and the rollers can also wear adding to the advance failing to work properly.

And a map of its operation. The trimmer screw is for fine tuning the advance start movement.

Externally there's an adjustable cam that also can be adjusted to fine tune the advance map.

A test to see if the advance is working is while idling, pull on this large rocker arm. If the engine's note does not change, the advance is non functional.


Then the governor.
The governor's job is to maintain the desired engine speed within a preset range under a variety of load conditions.

This one like most any other governor relies on centripetal forces working on the flyweights.
As the weights are tipped outward they move the thrust plate agains the governor arm which pivots on the knife edge of the pivot shaft which rotates the metering valve.
The forces on the governor arm caused by the weights is balanced by the governor spring which is controlled by the foot throttle.

As load is reduced and engine speed increases the weights rotate the metering valve clockwise to reduce fuel. This limits the speed increase to a value determined by the governor spring and the foot throttle.

As load is increased and engine speed decreases the metering valve will rotate anticlockwise to increase fuel.


You now know more than most people about an obsolete technology nobody cares about. I glossed over some bits and pieces as they're minor players compared to the rockstars that have gone out and partied too hard on gritty farm fuels.

This is relevant because the truck will intermittently not start hot, the advance fails the arm test, the cold idle advance seems to also be broken, and it has a weird running issue right at 2100rpm where if the governor is held solid, the engine speed will wander high then sag back down slowly like a lean condition on a gasser.


Sources/further reading:
http://www.stanadyne.com/dealerportal/ssi/english/Product%20Manual/99834.pdf
https://radionerds.com/images/f/f4/Stanadyne_db2_operation_and_instructions_manuals.pdf

This is a great post. What does the state of the glow plug tell you about what might be wrong?

Anything else that this might not tell you? "This is relevant because the truck will intermittently not start hot, the advance fails the arm test, the cold idle advance seems to also be broken, and it has a weird running issue right at 2100rpm where if the governor is held solid, the engine speed will wander high then sag back down slowly like a lean condition on a gasser."

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



cursedshitbox posted:

I.. didn't. Just blm land. I ensure no trace or damage to the local ecology.

I was just admiring the balls it took to change out the injectors in what literally is the middle of nowhere. With no secondary/backup vehicle with an engine.

cursedshitbox posted:

Post all this. I pull into a truck stop and get froggy.
I crawl under the truck to find oil on the exhaust.

Oil on exhaust cooks off quick. This shouldn't be here.

I unbolt the crossover pipe you see snaking to the right in the photo.
My spouse starts the engine up with more or less open exhaust.
Left bank. No smoke. Hits fine.
Right bank. Smoke. Oil. Doesn't sound right. ...
Ok uh I got my answer. Something is wrong here.
...
#5. Inconel precup is cracked at the portal to the cylinder. Lots of soot. Its hitting but probably burning oil.

#7. Inconel precup is cracked at the portal to the cylinder. Piston is unnaturally clean. Piston looks cracked. Not likely hitting and getting washed down with fuel.


The 6.9/7.3 IDI is what I call a "disposamotor". They're parent bore like most gasoline engines with non replaceable liners. I can't just drop another piston/cylinder combo into #7 and keep on truckin.

I found a 1994.5 factory turbo engine from a crashed truck in Phoenix some 900 miles away. I'm gonna make a run for it.

The Brick of Thesus.

Bad frame; bad motor. Jesus christ you can't get a break.

At least the scenery's nice. And you have each other.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

builds character posted:

This is a great post. What does the state of the glow plug tell you about what might be wrong?

Anything else that this might not tell you? "This is relevant because the truck will intermittently not start hot, the advance fails the arm test, the cold idle advance seems to also be broken, and it has a weird running issue right at 2100rpm where if the governor is held solid, the engine speed will wander high then sag back down slowly like a lean condition on a gasser."

carbon buildup from oil burnin.

I might be misunderstanding your second question here.
WIthout putting pressure gauges on various parts of the system there's not a lot more that can be done since we can't empirically test the part.
Lazy/tired poppet injectors will leak leading to high egt, poor running, hard starting, smoke, etc.
If the high pressure plungers aren't pumping up they'll give lousy power output and in extreme cases, no running at all.
Transfer/lift pump problems stem from no starts to not being able to run any faster than idle speed.
Timing advance and all of its features is critical in cold starting and engine performance.

Now that we've taken the bad pump out of the equation and subsequently pulled four injectors it's beginning to look a lot like a dead 7.3 Which 7.3s don't make enough power to die.



PainterofCrap posted:

I was just admiring the balls it took to change out the injectors in what literally is the middle of nowhere. With no secondary/backup vehicle with an engine.

The Brick of Thesus.

Bad frame; bad motor. Jesus christ you can't get a break.

At least the scenery's nice. And you have each other.

It's gonna get worse before it gets better. This truck only breaks with no breaks.

This thread is almost a year behind. A year later. It has not gotten better. The stint the thread is getting into now is a big driver behind why I started this thread.

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

cursedshitbox posted:

carbon buildup from oil burnin.

I might be misunderstanding your second question here.
WIthout putting pressure gauges on various parts of the system there's not a lot more that can be done since we can't empirically test the part.
Lazy/tired poppet injectors will leak leading to high egt, poor running, hard starting, smoke, etc.
If the high pressure plungers aren't pumping up they'll give lousy power output and in extreme cases, no running at all.
Transfer/lift pump problems stem from no starts to not being able to run any faster than idle speed.
Timing advance and all of its features is critical in cold starting and engine performance.

Now that we've taken the bad pump out of the equation and subsequently pulled four injectors it's beginning to look a lot like a dead 7.3 Which 7.3s don't make enough power to die.

It's gonna get worse before it gets better. This truck only breaks with no breaks.

This thread is almost a year behind. A year later. It has not gotten better. The stint the thread is getting into now is a big driver behind why I started this thread.

Sorry, don't mean to be asking stupid questions. Just interested in the diagnostic process.

Makes sense on not being able to test without pressure gauges. But I was late to posting and then it was all clear with the boroscope. :rip:

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
I'm not seeing any tree branches to pull the engine with, I'm guessing you have to drive it like this for a little while.

Nystral
Feb 6, 2002

Every man likes a pretty girl with him at a skeleton dance.
Looking back at it, would you have preferred hammering away at the old bus you had what must have been 5 years back? IIRC you sold it and were looking to move overseas for a time then bought the truck and camper with the idea of GTFO of the Bay Area for a bit even before COVID hit.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Nystral posted:

Looking back at it, would you have preferred hammering away at the old bus you had what must have been 5 years back? IIRC you sold it and were looking to move overseas for a time then bought the truck and camper with the idea of GTFO of the Bay Area for a bit even before COVID hit.



Nah. The Gillig here and there I do wish I kept. That's nothing really outta the ordinary with the other 60 something cars I've had. However it went on to live an eventful life with its new owners. I bought the truck at the time to be a tender for the bus back when my left knee exploded like it was a GMT400 front suspension. The floor plan my spouse and I designed for it is nowhere near as efficient as the truck camper manufacturers pull off. Having spent months rebuilding this one and now years using it while studying how this floor plan is to live in, maintain, and do projects within has provided a lot of insight. I've looked at other various manufacturers of rvs, overlanding vehicles, truck campers, super Cs, etc with a similar eye to see how the floorplan would work out. Not everybody gets it. I sure didn't 7 years ago. Now I have a pretty good idea of how to lay out a good efficient floorplan that excels at various tasks. Like food prep. I joke here and there that I should build these vehicles. This is the prototype. Maybe I will.

The Gillig never would have had that since I was coming from another bus and I would have made some mistakes. I wasn't really into cooking then and even with the first GM bus a little over a decade ago I'm pretty sure i never used the oven despite living in it for around 2 years.

It also had some very no longer available at all parts and couldn't offroad due to its mid engine design. Though I'm pretty sure its been to a burn or three.



builds character posted:

Sorry, don't mean to be asking stupid questions. Just interested in the diagnostic process.

Makes sense on not being able to test without pressure gauges. But I was late to posting and then it was all clear with the boroscope. :rip:

No stupid questions here! I didn't get what you were trying to ask. The lack of compression does complicate things when trying to make an engine run just a little bit.


Since the engine is blowing so much oil into the intake tract my husband decided to build a condenser and pull the oil back out.

The idea is to cool the oil and drain it into a puke tank then pour it back into the engine. This will facilitate us driving to Phoenix from Denver.

Started it up and it blew the hose off the engine. Turns out the engine has over 50Psi of blowby.
Reconfigured it to be a straight up redneck as hell 1970s road draft tube.

Buses? absolutely. Totally love em. These Eagles ride on torsion bars. Excellent ride. Total pain in the rear end to replace the torsion bars when they wear out.


Made it 50 miles before the wheels really started coming off the bus. The engine's steadily knocking now and it has lost a half gallon of oil in 20 miles.


Its blowing its oil out of everywhere. We gotta replace the engine here in Denver.


The brass tube is the road draft tube.
Made it to a truck stop where we regroup.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ieEpciHkB0

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

cursedshitbox posted:

the engine has over 50Psi of blowby.


Made it to a truck stop where we regroup.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ieEpciHkB0

:stare:

Seems fine.

the spyder
Feb 18, 2011

That's just the new onboard air compressor.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Reminder that its making a solid 50 psi of blowby at idle. I probably don't want to know what its doing at 55mph.

What we have here is a very solid industrially sized (oily) air compressor.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!

cursedshitbox posted:

Reminder that its making a solid 50 psi of blowby at idle. I probably don't want to know what its doing at 55mph.

What we have here is a very solid industrially sized (oily) air compressor.

Built in oiler, sounds like a feature to me.

drk
Jan 16, 2005

cursedshitbox posted:

What we have here is a very solid industrially sized (oily) air compressor.

At this point, I'm somewhat surprised to hear you describe anything on this truck as "very solid"

Liquid Communism
Mar 9, 2004

коммунизм хранится в яичках

cursedshitbox posted:

Reminder that its making a solid 50 psi of blowby at idle. I probably don't want to know what its doing at 55mph.

What we have here is a very solid industrially sized (oily) air compressor.

Can't lie, I'm amazed you got it to 55 without something detonating.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

cursedshitbox posted:

50 psi of blowby

:stonkhat:

How the gently caress has every gasket not popped completely out of the engine?

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

STR posted:

:stonkhat:

How the gently caress has every gasket not popped completely out of the engine?

I'll get to this soon. I am still mad about the mess this engine left over a year later.

Everything is coming off the hinges. The bathroom door included. Turns out only 4 little nails held it in and the whole thing just up and fell the gently caress off from driving over the area's excellent world class infrastructure.



Parked at the Boulder County Farigrounds in Longmont. Full hookups but in less than two weeks the water is getting turned off for the season.


Another overlanding buddy. Though this one seems to have never wandered off pavement.








Gonna need to find a local engine and a local spot to swap it. Anything else is out of the question.

The two competing engines I'm after. This one is in Phoenix and a 94.5 factory turbo.
"remanufactured" but who knows when. Miles sorta unknown. Needs a special 94.5 only flywheel.
It was the engine I was going after. And a goon was willing to truck it to me. However.






Except I noticed the filter restriction gauge is missing. Potentially sandblasting the engine.


And the other. A 1993 naturally aspirated variant with a little over 120,000 miles.
It's local. Well. Sorta. Found out it's actually in Missouri at a sister yard. They can ship it over in a few days.







Price on both is about the same. I didn't wanna bug the goon that offered for help. The NA will need all the best parts of the dead engine hung on it.
It'll potentially eat a few hours more than the factory turbo to get it set up and installed.
This is now a buy a junkyard engine and turbocharge it in the middle of a road trip.

Now to find the where. Longmont has decent cycling infrastructure. Both bikes are down however.

I was able to bleed his bike's brakes and get em working without a syringe before. Not taking now. Bought a bleed kit.
Yeesh the fluid is filthy.

The Sbeater was slightly better.


Despite being the Audi of bikes this one runs like a well oiled machine. The more scenic parts of the ride.





Bonus danger noodle.

35 miles later.


The list of potential spots to swap an engine. A lot less scenic.

Dead industrial end. Doesn't seem busy on a weekend. May be in the way during a week day.


Eerily close to a cantina. Probably wouldn't like the swears.


Another cul-de-sac near some rail road tracks. Apartment blocks to the left. May get hassled.


Dead end with a view by some storage units and junkyards. Really good candidate for a spot. Nothing around. Nobody would care.


Lastly literally behind the fairgrounds by a Uhaul. Maybe?

This street has a bonus probably broken bullnose.


Found this overlanding tent trailer/bike hauler for sale. Probably what this truck should be hauling rather than a three ton spine buster.


Since I've a few days to wait on an engine might as well eat poo poo and work on projects.

The Post is real good. Go there sometime.



Total vaproware pyrometer. These oleds only last a few hundred hours. shame.


No pics. Fixed the bathroom door by anchoring the fucker into the wall with inch and a half wood screws. I could hang off this thing like its a stripper pole but with all the trash I'm eating, I probably shouldn't.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

cursedshitbox posted:

Despite being the Audi of bikes this one runs like a well oiled machine. The more scenic parts of the ride.

lol isnt any machine hanging off the back of your rig well oiled

El Jebus
Jun 18, 2008

This avatar is paid for by "Avatars for improving Lowtax's spine by any means that doesn't result in him becoming brain dead by putting his brain into a cyborg body and/or putting him in a exosuit due to fears of the suit being hacked and crushing him during a cyberpunk future timeline" Foundation

Raluek posted:

lol isnt any machine hanging off the back of your rig well oiled

:golfclap:

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Raluek posted:

lol isnt any machine hanging off the back of your rig well oiled

:drat:

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

Raluek posted:

lol isnt any machine hanging off the back of your rig well oiled

Jesus Christ man, absolutely no mercy :lol:

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

Raluek posted:

lol isnt any machine hanging off the back of your rig well oiled

:vince:

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

cursedshitbox posted:

This street has a bonus probably broken bullnose.


Holy poo poo. I've NEVER seen another one in the same color combo as the one I had (1980 F-150 Ranger XLT - that looks more like an 84-85).

Raluek posted:

lol isnt any machine hanging off the back of your rig well oiled

:perfect:

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
Saw this last night thought might be appropriate to post here. Anxiously awaiting the next chapter update!

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
I'm glad y'all took that and ran with it. Kept the thread busy while I was off dealing with poo poo tractors.

For $19.95 you too can have a bail out poo poo tractor capable of hauling [checks notes] 2150lb.



While it says it can haul about a ton. It really can't.

Back at camp.


Let's start pouring over this new to me 7.3.Sold to me with "127670 miles". from a 1993 with a PSOM digital odometer capable of reading such. Unlike the 5 digit odometer in this truck.






It's a solid ten footer. Way better as it is than what's in the truck. What about its details.

Air cleaner off.


Fresh freeze plugs and gaskets.


New block heater? who the hell does that?


Genuwine Ford Intake manifold gasket. Someone sprung for the good parts today.


Clutch looks good and fresh with visible pads.


High flow thermostat.


The back of the intake valley pan is a little cruddy. No surprise. This area gets disgusting fast. The current 7.3's is about under an inch and a half of oil.



Pulling a glowplug the precups look perfect.


Since I'm not using the engine driven fuel pump, I removed that and had a look inside.


Pulling glowplugs out. They're not Beru but some cheap knockoffs. All with swollen tips. I don't have my nice glowplug removal tools either. For I didn't plan to do an engine swap.


But I got em all out and got proper Beru glowplugs installed. If you know you know. These things are notorious for breaking off in a head and ruining everybodies day.

Engine's here. Prepped. Ready. Tomorrow. I'm on the clock.

luminalflux
May 27, 2005



everdave posted:

Saw this last night thought might be appropriate to post here. Anxiously awaiting the next chapter update!



I don't think AAA can tow that outside of the environment

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



cursedshitbox posted:



Engine's here. Prepped. Ready. Tomorrow. I'm on the clock.

That flywheel looks primo.

Even though this is in the past: I’m here for this

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

everdave posted:

Saw this last night thought might be appropriate to post here. Anxiously awaiting the next chapter update!



lol excellent snipe.


Shoulda bought a 5500 Ram. :v:

Yeah uh if the center of mass is close to the axle it'll just use the camper as a big lever to work the frame rails back and forth like a cheap coat hanger. Especially when the camper is in the 5-9 thousand pound wet range on something like a "one ton".

I saw a brand new 4wd platinum drw F350 + Host Mammoth (think an easy eight thousand pounds) working the frame on that truck like this camper did to mine. The bed/camper was just bobbing back and forth in unison as guy drove [slowly] through the intersection.

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

drat. Fingers crossed you don't get hassled during the swap.

cursedshitbox posted:

If you know you know.

Been watching a lot of That Dude Can Cook?

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...

cursedshitbox posted:

I joke here and there that I should build these vehicles. This is the prototype. Maybe I will.

Hell, if you ever lose enough marbles to actually try, I'm in to help. I've been horrified by RV and overland stuff for too long and would love to take a crack at doing it right, especially since anything below EarthRoamers are just Wish LED-encrusted 70s mobile homes on an underbuilt chassis.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Rotten
May 21, 2002

As a shadow I walk in the land of the dead
Not to derail this amazing thread, but are the tiger campers that are built with a pass through to the cab any good?

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply