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I have never liked the waxy finish I get from the AP stuff
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Dec 11, 2022 19:32
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IncredibleIgloo posted:I like Army Painter as a company and all their products, except their base paint line. The color metallics are neat, their wet palette is awesome, their scenery stuff is good, and I have good experience with their spray primer. If they are improving their paint that is great! me too, their speed paints also do the "contrast method" thing better than citadel or any of the others i've tried. I understand the need to varnish is frustrating but I hope they don't mess with it too much
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Dec 11, 2022 19:48
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Bucnasti posted:Is the canned dip the same as the dropper bottle wash? I assumed (for some reason) it was thicker.
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Dec 11, 2022 19:52
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Army painters regular paints are more or less fine. Some of them are trash (all their yellows I've tried) some of them are good (necromancer cloak is a really good just-off-black grey), most of them are okay. A lot of them settle/seperate really badly though, meaning they need a lot of shaking and while I wouldnt warn someone off them, I wouldnt particularly recommend them over any other brand. An agitator (or a vortex mixer) helps their consistency a lot. Their metallics are decent from what I've tried, and their washes are really good. The improvement they've made recently AFAIK is adding ball bearings to their regular bottles so you dont have to add your own agitators. This was a while back. The Speedpaints I'm kind of torn on. I like them a lot, and use them a decent amount. You can do some good stuff with them, either using them as a quick one-and-done to get a unit done to a tabletop standard quickly or wet blending with them, using them as a tint or glaze, the usual contrast-style paint stuff but without as much pooling (and so tide marks) as citadel contrast. The reactivation is an issue though. You can work with it (honestly I've got some really nice subtle highlights by highlighting over something painted with speedpaints and the slight reactivation causing the colours to blend) or you can work around it (varnish, or mainly highlight via drybrushing), but the problem is trying to integrate those into your regular workflow for those specific paints when you dont with any of your other paints. Breaks the flow a little, and gets annoying. It seems super inconsistent too, I notice it far more with the red than with their other colours. I painted a figures hair with red speedpaint, and accidently got some on his facemask. Not a big deal, I hadnt painted his mask yet anyway, I'll just cover the whole mask with white and go from there. Literally weeks later I went to paint the white and the speedpaint reactivated giving a pink tone to the white. So I personally like the current speedpaint line, but I'm not sure I'd recommend them without a big caveat, and probably not to a beginner at all (if you dont have the brush control to mainly put them where you want them you're going to have a hard time fixing mistakes). According to a video or two I've seen recently they are reformulating the line (and introducing new colours) to reduce reactivation, but they wont be able to eliminate it because its a property of the medium that lets it flow easily and give the speedpaint effect. Who knows when that'll be ready to go though.
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Dec 11, 2022 20:12
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Siivola posted:Yeah it’s just wood stain from the hardware store. Yep, AP's original product line was just cans of wood stain with their label on them. They got their start because of the (at the time, new) Dipping method picking up steam among wargamers that wanted to have a fully painted army, hence the company name.
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Dec 11, 2022 20:21
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Silhouette posted:Yep, AP's original product line was just cans of wood stain with their label on them. They got their start because of the (at the time, new) Dipping method picking up steam among wargamers that wanted to have a fully painted army, hence the company name. I remember a million posts on reddit about how to paint your space hulk genestealers with the DIP (wood stain) technique
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Dec 11, 2022 20:56
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NinjaDebugger posted:If they reduce or eliminate the reactivation on the speed paints I will be honestly sad, you can do some cool poo poo with that. Elaborate? I have the full set, a bit concerned but I figured I can fix the reactivation with some varnish if need be and it could help with blending/fixing.
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Dec 12, 2022 03:24
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Contrast and Xpress Paint don’t need fixing with varnish by the end user, though. Reactivation is a problem.
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Dec 12, 2022 05:04
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Silhouette posted:Yep, AP's original product line was just cans of wood stain with their label on them. They got their start because of the (at the time, new) Dipping method picking up steam among wargamers that wanted to have a fully painted army, hence the company name. I saw them at Gencon the year they started. Guy was in full on infomercial mode at their booth demoing the dip technique over and over. At the time it seemed like magic.
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Dec 12, 2022 08:19
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Is there a ready-made wash or a recipe to make a wash that has a flow like Tamiya panel liner? And is it possible to make one that is water based?
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Dec 12, 2022 08:31
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Muir posted:Contrast and Xpress Paint don’t need fixing with varnish by the end user, though. Reactivation is a problem. That's exactly the problem I was asking about, from what I've seen the most common recommendation is to give the model a light coat of varnish between speedpaints and normal paints, specifically to prevent reactivation.
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Dec 12, 2022 09:00
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Muir posted:Contrast and Xpress Paint don’t need fixing with varnish by the end user, though. Reactivation is a problem. Contrast absolutely requires varnishing, or it will flake off after handling in play. Somehow this gets treated as a lesser offense.
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Dec 12, 2022 11:20
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moths posted:Contrast absolutely requires varnishing, or it will flake off after handling in play. Gonna guess that's because vanishing any paint job after it's done is considered SOP unlike varnishing in the middle of the paint job like for Speed Paints
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Dec 12, 2022 12:43
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Star Man posted:Is there a ready-made wash or a recipe to make a wash that has a flow like Tamiya panel liner? And is it possible to make one that is water based? Not really; it NOT being water based is what makes it work. You can mix pigments with lighter fluid and get basically this same effect or just start using enamel washes which is the Real Ultimate Power (to me, anyway).
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Dec 12, 2022 13:12
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Vallejo's entire range of Weathering Effects and Washes are all water based. Inferior to enamel based products in my opinion, but water based washes do exist.
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Dec 12, 2022 13:37
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Star Man posted:And is it possible to make one that is water based? https://youtu.be/EwEyoO1NBww ) Mistaken For Bacon fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Dec 12, 2022 |
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Dec 12, 2022 13:55
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Vallejo's entire range of Weathering Effects and Washes are all water based. Right, but those don't behave like Tamiya Panel Liner though.
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Dec 12, 2022 14:41
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    This is my first attempt at glazing in flesh, my first time trying to approximate rusted metal... it was a lot. I originally tried to do the flesh but I started with a deep purple ended at a yellowish color and it looked like a zombie, which I didn't want, so it got... THE DIP. Then, while I was painting it, I somehow broke off the handle of his weapon, didn't notice, and couldn't find it, so I had to improvise a replacement. I do not have a lot of bits, so I grafted a spear on and made up story about it, because every miniature is a story. Sometimes that story is simple. "Spear isn't smashy enough."
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Dec 12, 2022 15:23
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Cthulu Carl posted:Gonna guess that's because vanishing any paint job after it's done is considered SOP unlike varnishing in the middle of the paint job like for Speed Paints Also I believe GW tells you straight up front that Contrast paints are more "fragile" than regular paints and need to be protected with a varnish after you're done (and as you say it's generally SOP for mini painters anyways, at least for gaming minis); whereas IIRC, Army Painter didn't say anything about Speedpaints having issues with reactivating until enough reviewers brought it up that they had to acknowledge it as a problem. I'll also mention once more that I most definitely have had Speedpaints reactivate while applying varnish. This has happened regardless of whether I used rattlecan acrylic varnish, airbrushing an acrylic varnish on, or handbrushing acrylic varnish on. This has happened regardless of manufacturer or brand, or whether it's gloss or satin or matte. I've even tried the "mix your paints/varnishes with Speedpaints medium" trick that Dana Howl and others have suggested that's supposed to prevent reactivation, with zero success. I haven't tried with a non-acrylic varnish (like an enamel-based one), so I have no idea if those are fine, but at this point I'm fine with just sticking to Contrast or using something else, or just using old-school paint methods, and not worrying about AP's Speedpaints. At least not until they've fixed the reactivation issue.
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Dec 12, 2022 15:45
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Weirdly enough, I find contrast paint to be way more durable than the Vallejo model colors that I normally use so they feel indestructible. I don't recall if I varnished my gellerpox but I probably should
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Dec 12, 2022 15:54
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Spanish Manlove posted:more durable than the Vallejo model colors
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Dec 12, 2022 15:58
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One of these days I'll remember to varnish my minis
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Dec 12, 2022 16:34
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No need to varnish if you never play with your minis!
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Dec 12, 2022 17:06
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Bucnasti posted:No need to varnish if you never play with your minis! Or if they are still sitting on the sprues! 
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Dec 12, 2022 17:33
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I picked up some Votann, and for the clear canopies, will I run into any problems if I spray them with a clear coat to use as primer for the armor sections? Will that cloud up the canopies too much?
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Dec 12, 2022 17:38
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Bucnasti posted:No need to varnish if you never play with your minis! 
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Dec 12, 2022 18:07
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You can play games with these things??
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Dec 12, 2022 18:10
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Count Thrashula posted:You can play games with these things??
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Dec 12, 2022 19:30
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what functional adult has enough free time that will t lines up with another functional adult's for any activity let alone tabletop games?
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Dec 12, 2022 20:53
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War and Pieces posted:what functional adult has enough free time that will t lines up with another functional adult's for any activity let alone tabletop games? I do my painting at the board game store were my friend works, so while it's not free time... Yeah I got nothin, we haven't played anything in weeks lol
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Dec 12, 2022 21:03
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S.J. posted:I picked up some Votann, and for the clear canopies, will I run into any problems if I spray them with a clear coat to use as primer for the armor sections? Will that cloud up the canopies too much? Yes. Don't spray anything on clear plastic if you don't want to change its texture and make it more translucent at best. I'd mask or brush the frames, depending on how big they are. You can always gently remove mistakes with a toothpick afterward.
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Dec 12, 2022 21:35
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War and Pieces posted:what functional adult has enough free time that will t lines up with another functional adult's for any activity let alone tabletop games? Theres the trick, dont be functional!
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Dec 12, 2022 21:55
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grassy gnoll posted:Yes. Don't spray anything on clear plastic if you don't want to change its texture and make it more translucent at best. Well, except for Future polish  but yeah just mask if you're not sure
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Dec 12, 2022 22:19
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grassy gnoll posted:Yes. Don't spray anything on clear plastic if you don't want to change its texture and make it more translucent at best. Thank you!
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Dec 12, 2022 22:40
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First miniature for Five Parsecs from Home / Space Weirdos, from manufacturer EM4: Sard'aykin Officer I love the RT-style miniatures from them, not sure I'll ever get around to playing a game ever, but they're so cool.
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Dec 12, 2022 23:48
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Small starts for getting back into the swing of things. Here's some Brimstone Horrors.
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Dec 13, 2022 01:05
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in a hole in the ground there lived a hobbit. not a large, 28mm hole, printed with endless details, nor yet a support covered hole with tons of nubs to clean up: it was a 10mm hole, and that means smol.   
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Dec 13, 2022 03:49
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Well that totally rules.
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Dec 13, 2022 04:39
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That green is so loving vibrant holy poo poo
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Dec 13, 2022 04:49
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Nebalebadingdong posted:in a hole in the ground there lived a hobbit. not a large, 28mm hole, printed with endless details, nor yet a support covered hole with tons of nubs to clean up: it was a 10mm hole, and that means smol. god drat that looks straight out of a cartoon. One of the best illustrative works you've done so far
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Dec 13, 2022 06:13
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