Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
tylertfb
Mar 3, 2004

Time.Space.Transmat.
I work in a CNC machine shop and every year I make some kind of christmas present for my wife in the shop. She's been wanting to put a lift (1.5"? or so) on her 2020 Subaru Outback. Looking at shock-top spacer kits, they all look like something I could knock out in the shop in half a day, given the proper bolt pattern dimensions. The rear spacers look incredibly simple, while the fronts seem like they come in a few different designs, and have some built-in adjustability (for caster /camber etc...that's all black magic to me). I have access to a nice lift and tools to work on the car (and more importantly, a friend who owns aforementioned and knows how to use them). Have any of you actual subaru car people seen these things home-made? Are the shock/strut bolt patterns available online somewhere? I could make something like this COBB kit real easily with the equipment I have available to me: https://www.cobbtuning.com/products/suspension/subaru-lift-kit-outback-2020-2021

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice
I need some help with my SUBARU LEGACY...



drat thing caught on fire...



It's a 2007 2.5 Limited. Auto climate control. 143k miles. Stock aside from coilovers, wheels, flood lights and all the stereo crap including the 180 amp alternator.

Here it is in happier days...





Stay tuned for more details!

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice


What happened was it started running like poo poo and giving a cyl3 misfire code. Tried all the usual stuff to diagnose it and ended up at the fuel injectors. I tried switching them to see if the misfire would follow. No luck there. Last hail mary before paying a shop was to dump in a can of seafoam and top off the tank. I started to smell gas right before I pulled up to the pump and saw smoke right as I shut it off. Thanks to Sheetz for the two fire extinguishers I emptied putting it out.

Cops and fire department showed up and there was much embarrassment but no damage aside from my car and all the extinguisher dust. Here's the damage...







Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice


So, How hosed is it? I don't even know where to start with this poo poo. The car is in great shape aside from the original misfire problem and the damage from the fire. I'm fairly competent doing wiring and electrical work. This is the first time anything I've worked on has caught fire anyway. I sincerely appreciate any advice I get. My current vehicle has no heat and its getting cold as gently caress in PA about now :(

E: If anybody wants a pic of something in particular let me know and I'll reply asap.

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher
Looks to be requiring total engine harness. Also all fuel lines on the inlet and probably injectors / o-rings. Might also be some sensors as well.

Not the worst things to replace but a PITA I guess. You will need to take the inlet off to get to everything.

i own every Bionicle
Oct 23, 2005

cstm ttle? kthxbye

I think what likely happened is you developed a fuel leak when switching injectors. It’s easy to not get a perfect o ring seal when putting them back in. It’s also known to just happen as the o rings age.

Before your misfire became a misplaced fire, did you try fresh plugs/wires (I forget, does that year have coil on plug or not?)

I would replace the engine harness (look on eBay for some) and fuel lines as Cat said. Then, open up parts.Subaru.com and go through the engine bay, identify what is roasted and needs to be replaced, and look for replacement parts on eBay or Subaru parts deal. Make a total and figure out how much it’s going to cost. It might not make sense to fix it, old NA legacies don’t bring much money and it might make sense to find another car and put your parts on that.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Yeah I don't think I would remove an injector on a car more than a few years old without having new o-rings for it. And then get them all nice and lubricated as well. It's also pretty easy to bend the lines and rails a little out of shape which can then also cause a leak.

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/fuel-injector-components/2-001-4-deatschwerks-top-feed-injector-ring-kit

jamal fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Dec 9, 2022

Turmoil
Jun 27, 2000

Forum Veteran


Young Urchin
Just in case anyone has or knows someone with an Ascent MY 2019-2022:
https://www.reuters.com/business/autos-transportation/subaru-recalls-271000-us-vehicles-urges-drivers-park-outside-2022-12-13/

On a similar note, I'm taking a relative's 2016 Legacy in for service this week due to a battery discharge issue.

I was not aware of this until just last week, but there was a service bulletin in late 2017 and it was never mentioned when I took his car in for service.
It appears to be part of this: https://www.subarubatterysettlement.com/
And I had to fill the warranty paperwork out to get the car worked on in warranty.

quote:

Service Bulletin: 11-174-17R
APPLICABILITY: 2015-2017MY Legacy and Outback
2015-2017MY WRX
2017-2018MY Forester
SUBJECT: Reprogramming File Availability for:
DTC P05A0- Battery Discharge after Repeated
Short-Trip Driving High Engine Idle RPM After
Depressing Clutch Pedal

INTRODUCTION:
This bulletin announces the availability of reprogramming files to optimize the ECM and address the
following customer concerns:
• Check Engine light coming on (with DTC P05A0 stored in memory).
• Potential battery discharge (dead battery) after repeated periods of short-trip driving.
• A high (or “hanging”) engine RPM after depressing the clutch pedal (Forester only).

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

hosed up idle with the clutch in on a Subaru? There must be one of these to cover every age/model if you look hard enough.

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice

i own every Bionicle posted:

I think what likely happened is you developed a fuel leak when switching injectors. It’s easy to not get a perfect o ring seal when putting them back in. It’s also known to just happen as the o rings age.

Before your misfire became a misplaced fire, did you try fresh plugs/wires (I forget, does that year have coil on plug or not?)

I'm fairly confident that's exactly what happened. That's a mistake I'll never make again. The coil went about 6-8 months ago and I did the plugs and wires when I replaced that. It was running fine since. Until that misfire appeared all of a sudden. I tested all that before I went for the injectors.

I found a mostly intact harness at the salvage yard today...



Only :10bux:! Unfortunately someone chopped the end with the connection for the drivers side injectors and the two sensors. Thankfully that side wasn't damaged by the fire. I'm pretty confident that I'll be able to splice them together. Also grabbed new injectors and plug wires. So far everything else appears to be salvageable.

I'm in it for less than $200 in parts at this point so even if it ends up being totally hosed I'll feel better about the situation having at least made an attempt to get it back on the road again for cheap.

A car payment is something I'd like to avoid if at all possible. It's a shame that there's simply no such thing as a cheap car anymore. I briefly considered going into crushing debt for a Corolla GR because they're loving awesome. Brief research revealed that finding one of those for anywhere close MSRP is not an option so it looks like I'll be spending some quality time under the hood of the Legacy.

Stoop Kid
Jan 17, 2007

Afraid to leave his stoop.
My grandfather passed away a few months ago, and I may be purchasing a 2019 Forester with sub 5k miles on it from his estate. (My dad is an attorney and executor).

I am not sure if it’s being driven, but I think the gas tank may need to be drained and the battery is likely dead as well. Anything else I should watch out for if I proceed with the purchase?

I currently drive an 06 forester and I am pretty tired of the wind noise, haha.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat
The CVT is poo poo but probably won't be an issue for a while. Check if there are any recalls. Do what you outlined and replace the fuel filter too.

How long has the car been sitting?

Stoop Kid
Jan 17, 2007

Afraid to leave his stoop.

Wrar posted:

The CVT is poo poo but probably won't be an issue for a while. Check if there are any recalls. Do what you outlined and replace the fuel filter too.

How long has the car been sitting?

Bout 4 months at this point. Thank you for the advice!

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug

Stoop Kid posted:

Bout 4 months at this point. Thank you for the advice!

Four months? I wouldn't worry about the gas. Just fill it up a little early and you'll be fine. Battery is more likely to be dead, but it will probably also come back with a charge.

Sadi
Jan 18, 2005
SC - Where there are more rednecks than people
What’s the popular EJ oil pans these days? Finally getting a roll on rebuilding my blob eye wagon. Got an EFR, sti driveline, and am wrapping up the short block build and will need one soon. So many more options than there used to be for these things. Mostly going to use it as a fun street car, little autocross (less than 10 a year) and at most one track day a year.

Rolo
Nov 16, 2005

Hmm, what have we here?
Please post a ton of pics, I’d love to watch the process.

carticket
Jun 28, 2005

white and gold.

The one that gets sold for 818 builds is typically the Killer B pan/pickup/baffle. That's what I plan to put on my build (if it ever happens).

Sadi
Jan 18, 2005
SC - Where there are more rednecks than people

Rolo posted:

Please post a ton of pics, I’d love to watch the process.

Not a ton to share at the moment.


Motor wise its an EJ257 block that I got cheap. Currently gave it its 3rd over bore (100mm) as well as line hone and crank re ground. Everything is clearanced but the machine shop forgot to touch up the thrust faces on the crank so they're a few thou under seized. Whole thing is going back to the machine shop this weekend.

For the short block, its got 3MI Racing 300M rods with L19 bolts, Mahle PowerPak 4032 pistons, ACL bearings, ARP case bolts. Long block I havent decided on a oil pan yet, but Im running EJ255 single AVCs heads, ARP 625+ studs, IDX 1050 injectors and probably and 11mm oil pump. Currently I have a lovely AOS on hand, but probably need to change over to something nicer before I finish the build.

Charge side I have an EFR6758 0.8 A/R twin scroll with a fullrace twin scroll manifold set up. Quick aside, fullrace stopped making this stuff and it was a nightmare to track down. Found a guy in Austria with exactly what I needed and lucked out that he was willing to deal with shipping. Have a process west intercooler to go on top.

Engine management will be with an AEM infinity 508. Have a harness set up to use the factory plugs.

Drive train is STI trans, STI diff, STI 5x100 brakes. I have not sourced a DCCD controller yet or coilovers. For wheels I have some Fifteen52 Turbomacs that im going to get powder coated STi Gold.

Body wise I have a JDM front bumper with the 5" fogs, sedan wide body front fenders, STi scoop, and I have some sedan rear fenders on a ship from ABW in the UK. I still need some sedan rear doors and gas cap.

I dont have E85 around me so im planning to tune for 93. The goal is somewhere between 350-400 wheel and not really push things too hard. I just want to drive the thing around town, few autocrosses per year, and maybe a trackday or two so I can starve the motor and blow the whole thing up/.

Rolo
Nov 16, 2005

Hmm, what have we here?
That’s awesome.

i own every Bionicle
Oct 23, 2005

cstm ttle? kthxbye

Sadi posted:

Not a ton to share at the moment.


Motor wise its an EJ257 block that I got cheap. Currently gave it its 3rd over bore (100mm) as well as line hone and crank re ground. Everything is clearanced but the machine shop forgot to touch up the thrust faces on the crank so they're a few thou under seized. Whole thing is going back to the machine shop this weekend.

For the short block, its got 3MI Racing 300M rods with L19 bolts, Mahle PowerPak 4032 pistons, ACL bearings, ARP case bolts. Long block I havent decided on a oil pan yet, but Im running EJ255 single AVCs heads, ARP 625+ studs, IDX 1050 injectors and probably and 11mm oil pump. Currently I have a lovely AOS on hand, but probably need to change over to something nicer before I finish the build.

Charge side I have an EFR6758 0.8 A/R twin scroll with a fullrace twin scroll manifold set up. Quick aside, fullrace stopped making this stuff and it was a nightmare to track down. Found a guy in Austria with exactly what I needed and lucked out that he was willing to deal with shipping. Have a process west intercooler to go on top.

Engine management will be with an AEM infinity 508. Have a harness set up to use the factory plugs.

Drive train is STI trans, STI diff, STI 5x100 brakes. I have not sourced a DCCD controller yet or coilovers. For wheels I have some Fifteen52 Turbomacs that im going to get powder coated STi Gold.

Body wise I have a JDM front bumper with the 5" fogs, sedan wide body front fenders, STi scoop, and I have some sedan rear fenders on a ship from ABW in the UK. I still need some sedan rear doors and gas cap.

I dont have E85 around me so im planning to tune for 93. The goal is somewhere between 350-400 wheel and not really push things too hard. I just want to drive the thing around town, few autocrosses per year, and maybe a trackday or two so I can starve the motor and blow the whole thing up/.

Sounds like a great build!

When I did my Legacy wagon I just used a fresh EJ255 pan (whichever generation is better), and have maybe 25-30 track days on it and 75K miles on it with no oiling issues. The next motor will get a Killer B pan, but I’m not sure if that will clear your twin scroll headers. I’m making 314whp/340wtq on a heartbreaker mustang dyno.

For AOS I got a good deal on a used IAG street series and did a rebuild, they sell a kit of all the hardware and o rings you will need. It’s bulky, but works amazingly well. Whenever I pull the intercooler I see almost zero oil in it.

Does your that rod length constitute a “long rod” motor? I wasn’t sure that there were 4032 pistons available with the higher wrist pin height if so. I think my next shortblock will be a long rod build, but also interested in 4032 pistons.

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT
My 2010 3.6 outback has a head gasket leak at 198k miles

:c

Getting quoted more than the car and more than a used car and I just changed jobs

Hoping I can find a new engine tbh I like my car

Sadi
Jan 18, 2005
SC - Where there are more rednecks than people

i own every Bionicle posted:


Does your that rod length constitute a “long rod” motor? I wasn’t sure that there were 4032 pistons available with the higher wrist pin height if so. I think my next shortblock will be a long rod build, but also interested in 4032 pistons.

My rods are stock length. Got a friend deal on them and figured for my goal no reason to over complicate things. So I’m going to be reasonably close to factory compression ratio. Significantly lighter rotating assembly though. I think when I ran the numbers it was looking like similar bearing loads due to acceleration at 250rpm over stock.

That said I don’t know that I really want to gently caress with turning things to 11. I really just want to get this thing on the road and enjoy it for a while before it Subarus it’s self and blows up. I hate wrenching so much more now that I’m
In my 30s lol.

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT
Getting quoted $5k to do an engine replacement... Less than a used car right now, not sure if I should do it.

CRUSTY MINGE
Mar 30, 2011

Peggy Hill
Foot Connoisseur
That's about right. My FB25 was about $4300 to replace a little over 2 years ago.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

Welcome and thank you for shopping at Wal-Mart!
I love you!
That's not much more than I spent on a new short block, rebuilding the heads, and all the misc gaskets and hoses for an EJ255 that blew 3 years ago. My wife thought I should just buy another car, but better the devil you know vs another car of unknown history.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
Anyone know what is up with the seemingly conflicting information on the piston size for the STI rear Brembos for 08-17?

Some places I look and it says 36mm, other places it is 40mm. I go on RockAuto, select a 2017 STI, and the Powerstop remans are listed as 36mm while the Nugeon are listed as 40mm.

Powerstop - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6536432&cc=3435522&pt=1704&jsn=837
Nugeon - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9747592&cc=3435522&pt=1704&jsn=839

Wtf? I need 40mm for a BRZ. I know the rear STI calipers bolt on to a BRZ rear, they have the same Centric seal rebuild kit (leading to it being 40mm), and DBA dual 5x100/5x114 STI rotors fit both the STI and the BRZ w/ PP Brembos so it should work. I just want to figure out this piston size mindfuck. I am not going to run them if they're actually 36mm.

BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Jan 21, 2023

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Pretty sure 04-07 sti are 36, 08-17 are 40mm, and brz pp calipers are maybe 38mm pistons. Or so the spreadsheet I made at some point says. I also have a good amount of effective radius info, some from service manuals, some from kind of guessing/drawing circles in cad

jamal fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Jan 21, 2023

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm

jamal posted:

Pretty sure 04-07 sti are 36, 08-17 are 40mm, and brz pp calipers are maybe 38mm pistons. Or so the spreadsheet I made at some point says.

BRZ PP is supposed to be 40mm/40mm up front and 40mm in the rear. I probably should have measured when I had a set here last week. I don't understand why the Powerstops use the 08+ caliper style but list the 04-07 piston size. I also don't really want to buy a set and find out they are 36mm.

edit: The part numbers I got off the rear PP Brembos were 20.9820.03 and 20.9819.04. I guess I've got more digging to do.

Centric lists the same rebuild kit PN for the STI and the PP
https://www.buybrakes.com/centric-143.35031-caliper-repair-kit

I feel like I'm going full Charlie always sunny over this

BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Jan 21, 2023

yoohoo
Nov 15, 2004
A little disrespect and rudeness can elevate a meaningless interaction to a battle of wills and add drama to an otherwise dull day
What's the consensus on 30k mile services on a 2020 Forester? I'm handy enough to do things like change filters, oil, and rotate tires, but do I need to shell out $300 to have the brakes, and front/rear differentials serviced, and have the cooling systems checked?

Iron Crowned
May 6, 2003

by Hand Knit
What is the failure rate on fuel caps?

2018 Crosstrek with 42.5k on the odometer. I've been getting a evap leak that is fixed by reseating my fuel cap, initially I thought I was just a dumbass and forgot how to replace my cap after filling up. I made sure that I torqued the cap on after refueling, and things have been fine up until last week, when the lights came on at 300 miles, and again yesterday at around 200, opposed to the previous instances of about 40.

It does seem a bit "easy" to remove the cap, but I've also never really paid attention, since the only other time I had a fuel cap fail was when someone stole it off of my 98 Chevy Lumina.

Also, any recommendations on a possible aftermarket cap and/or supplier, or should I just head over to the parts department of my local dealer and get one?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Iron Crowned posted:

What is the failure rate on fuel caps?

2018 Crosstrek with 42.5k on the odometer. I've been getting a evap leak that is fixed by reseating my fuel cap, initially I thought I was just a dumbass and forgot how to replace my cap after filling up. I made sure that I torqued the cap on after refueling, and things have been fine up until last week, when the lights came on at 300 miles, and again yesterday at around 200, opposed to the previous instances of about 40.

It does seem a bit "easy" to remove the cap, but I've also never really paid attention, since the only other time I had a fuel cap fail was when someone stole it off of my 98 Chevy Lumina.

Also, any recommendations on a possible aftermarket cap and/or supplier, or should I just head over to the parts department of my local dealer and get one?

It's almost never the cap. Until it is. I've seen it.

Something else to check: is your filler neck rusty where the cap seats? I've seen that as a cause a bunch of times.

Do not use an aftermarket cap. OEM only. You cap is part of a complicated and finnicky evap system. Don't complicate this issue with aftermarket likely junk.

Unfortunately there's not a lot you can do other than guess without a smoke machine and/or scanner that can pull live data that includes fuel tank pressure/purge valve status.

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT
Radiator hose burst today. Oil in overflow tank after getting home with more coolant in the loop.

Wife wants to know why I should pay 5 grand, "for something that could blow up next year," which tbh is something I don't have experience with.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm

jamal posted:

Pretty sure 04-07 sti are 36, 08-17 are 40mm, and brz pp calipers are maybe 38mm pistons. Or so the spreadsheet I made at some point says. I also have a good amount of effective radius info, some from service manuals, some from kind of guessing/drawing circles in cad

It is pretty weird, but the BRZ PP f/r use the same 40mm piston. I bought reman'd sti rear calipers that were for a 2017 with a claimed 36mm piston, but upon measuring they were 40mm as I expected

Seems all Subaru/Toyota did between the sti and brz/86 pp rear was change the powder coating and used m10x1.25 bolts for the PP brakes while the sti has m10x1.5 bolts because why not

Yeah, I need to paint them but for the $200 I paid for them versus the ~$800 that a used set of PP brembos goes for gently caress it. Good enough for what I am trying to do (fit 17" wheels instead of 18" and claw back some nasa tt5 classing points for using "oem" brakes)

gileadexile
Jul 20, 2012

Hey Subaru thread, new owner reporting in. I'm coming over from Jeep ownership the past two decades or so.

Three weeks ago now, I purchased a 2009 Impreza 2.5i. Bought from what I thought was a legit lot, but it turns out to have had a blown headgasket. In my only defense, my mechanic said someone had dumped some stop leak into the coolant and ran it through then cleaned the cap.

Anyway, I work at a dealership myself, so I'm getting the best mechanic here to work on it. Going to replace the headgaskets, timing belt, thermostat, etc.

Anything else to watch for, be aware of? I don't plan on any mods, as it's fun enough for a commuter car anyway and I've read they don't respond to mods much anyway, so aside from maybe a nicer stereo and speakers, I'm going to pretty much just maintain and drive it.

Only thing I could think of would maybe be some more aggressive looking offroad tires at some point, because I think that's a cool look.

i own every Bionicle
Oct 23, 2005

cstm ttle? kthxbye

gileadexile posted:

Hey Subaru thread, new owner reporting in. I'm coming over from Jeep ownership the past two decades or so.

Three weeks ago now, I purchased a 2009 Impreza 2.5i. Bought from what I thought was a legit lot, but it turns out to have had a blown headgasket. In my only defense, my mechanic said someone had dumped some stop leak into the coolant and ran it through then cleaned the cap.

Anyway, I work at a dealership myself, so I'm getting the best mechanic here to work on it. Going to replace the headgaskets, timing belt, thermostat, etc.

Anything else to watch for, be aware of? I don't plan on any mods, as it's fun enough for a commuter car anyway and I've read they don't respond to mods much anyway, so aside from maybe a nicer stereo and speakers, I'm going to pretty much just maintain and drive it.

Only thing I could think of would maybe be some more aggressive looking offroad tires at some point, because I think that's a cool look.

You will want the heads surfaced when you do the head gasket but I’m sure you’re aware of that, and if you check the OP of this thread, it will give you the PN for an MLS gasket that won’t fail.

Other than that, just maintain it and enjoy it as a fun, cheap, AWD commuter that is a blast in the snow, as you said. Some snow tires and black wheels look good and will make it a ton of fun when it gets slippery. I enjoyed mine when I had it.

Munkeylord
Jun 21, 2012

Sadi posted:

Not a ton to share at the moment.


Motor wise its an EJ257 block that I got cheap. Currently gave it its 3rd over bore (100mm) as well as line hone and crank re ground. Everything is clearanced but the machine shop forgot to touch up the thrust faces on the crank so they're a few thou under seized. Whole thing is going back to the machine shop this weekend.

For the short block, its got 3MI Racing 300M rods with L19 bolts, Mahle PowerPak 4032 pistons, ACL bearings, ARP case bolts. Long block I havent decided on a oil pan yet, but Im running EJ255 single AVCs heads, ARP 625+ studs, IDX 1050 injectors and probably and 11mm oil pump. Currently I have a lovely AOS on hand, but probably need to change over to something nicer before I finish the build.

Charge side I have an EFR6758 0.8 A/R twin scroll with a fullrace twin scroll manifold set up. Quick aside, fullrace stopped making this stuff and it was a nightmare to track down. Found a guy in Austria with exactly what I needed and lucked out that he was willing to deal with shipping. Have a process west intercooler to go on top.

Engine management will be with an AEM infinity 508. Have a harness set up to use the factory plugs.

Drive train is STI trans, STI diff, STI 5x100 brakes. I have not sourced a DCCD controller yet or coilovers. For wheels I have some Fifteen52 Turbomacs that im going to get powder coated STi Gold.

Body wise I have a JDM front bumper with the 5" fogs, sedan wide body front fenders, STi scoop, and I have some sedan rear fenders on a ship from ABW in the UK. I still need some sedan rear doors and gas cap.

I dont have E85 around me so im planning to tune for 93. The goal is somewhere between 350-400 wheel and not really push things too hard. I just want to drive the thing around town, few autocrosses per year, and maybe a trackday or two so I can starve the motor and blow the whole thing up/.

This is exactly what my 257 looks like right now also out of my 05 sti. Just mounted it to a stand the other day to deglaze the cylinders but it's definitely returning to a stock build as that's what it was before.

Rolo
Nov 16, 2005

Hmm, what have we here?
Got my first door dent on the STi :(

Why some people gotta do that.

Mao Zedong Thot
Oct 16, 2008


Rolo posted:

Got my first door dent on the STi :(

Why some people gotta do that.

I got hail damage in June, and then hit a deer in January. On the plus side I'm getting it all fixed at once (and I got obnoxious new headlights mostly paid for)! :suicide:

Fingat
May 17, 2004

Shhh. My Common Sense is Tingling



I got backed into in March and finally had the front bumper replaced in October. Was still waiting for insurance red tape to get it recoated, but then a friend of a friend scraped it maneuvering in his driveway on nye. Thankfully it buffed out and the missing paint was on the plate mount and is covered by a delete.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Rescue Toaster
Mar 13, 2003
Anyone have particular luck with battery replacements for the newer Subarus that eat batteries? In my case a 2019 Forester, the EFB battery needs to be replaced and I was on the fence about getting another EFB or an AGM. The only EFB's available are from the dealer for a small fortune, or an autozone Duralast Platinum EFB for $250. There's various AGM options since I've heard the Optimas aren't necessarily worth it quality-wise anymore.

People over on the subaruforester forums have strong opinions on replacing the battery with another EFB or switching to AGM so I'm interested in any more pragmatic experiences. Thanks!

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply