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Motronic posted:Except in this story it's being replaced with another Subzero? Am I reading this wrong? Alas I have spoken out of turn. Simply stating replacing the the gasket may have been an option but apparently based on further information from the Oh Pee I was incorrect and gasket is unobtainable at this juncture Thank you for coming to my ted talk.
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Nov 15, 2022 15:24
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Motronic posted:With a moen you're probably in good shape to be able to find a replacement cartridge. But buy one now anyway......I've started doing this so I have one in stock if things go wrong. Thanks for this by the way. I hadn't even considered the possibility of testing since we're on city water, but I may as well. Doubly so since it's an old house with a mish-mash of plumbing, so it's probably worth double-checking that there's no surprise lead. Guess I'll order some spare valves and aerators for all of the faucets, too.
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Nov 15, 2022 20:33
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Last week I had a plumbing company come out to do some work on my new (old) place. One of the items was replacing a delta 1700* series cartridge in the upper hall bathtub/shower. *maybe a Delta 1300 as the description of work on the invoice says 1700 and the line items say 1300 Now previous to this work I had not used the bathtub as we hadn't really moved in fully, so my problem is these are the water temps throughout the house (in rough order of closest to furthest from the water heater which is a 40 gal tank natural gas model): Downstairs Hall Bathroom - 129F Kitchen Sink - 129F Upper Hall Sink - 128F Upper Hall Bathtub - 96F Primary Bathroom Sink - 130F Primary Bathroom Bathtub - 129F I am making an assumption that when the inspectors tested all the faucets they would have said if one was barely human body temperature. So it seems to me that something was done wrong by the plumbers when replacing the cartridge on that shower/bath and it's not allowing a full amount of hot water to come out but instead mixing it with some amount of cold to give such a low temp relative to everything else. Can anyone with more knowledge than myself confirm that I should be seeking to have the plumbing company come out under warranty and fix this problem without charging me even more money? And if I'm unable to have the plumbers fix it under warranty, any ideas how I can fix this issue?
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Nov 16, 2022 19:32
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The cartridge probably has a limit stop that you could adjust yourself. The plumber should also adjust it for you for free.
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Nov 16, 2022 21:26
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Thanks, I went and watched a similar Delta video and decided maybe I could apply this myself but called up the plumber and they'll be out tomorrow where I'll watch them do it for the future.
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Nov 17, 2022 00:27
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Usually once you have it at a comfortable spot, you'll never touch it again, but it's good to know what the process entails
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Nov 17, 2022 04:57
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This is a dumb question, but are you putting the thermometer under running water or collecting a small amount of water in a bucket/bowl, vs. running water straight into the tub/sink and taking the temp of it collected there? Just asking because old iron or porcelain tubs are incredible heat sinks
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Nov 17, 2022 05:59
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i like nice words
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Anne Whateley posted:This is a dumb question, but are you putting the thermometer under running water or collecting a small amount of water in a bucket/bowl, vs. running water straight into the tub/sink and taking the temp of it collected there? Just asking because old iron or porcelain tubs are incredible heat sinks Since I've got an instant read I was just temp checking the stream itself. Plumber was here a few hours ago and got it adjusted, cold shower crisis averted!
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Nov 18, 2022 04:23
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Coming in here to see how screwed I might be. I'm just trying to install a new tub faucet/handle/shower head set, and ran into an issue the PO/old contractor left for me. I removed the old tub spout, and the pipe it was attached to (just via sliding on and then tightened with a set screw) then went back inside the wall. There was a bunch of old caulk around where the pipe came out through the finished tub wall, and it had degraded so once I removed the spout, the tension holding it all in place was gone and it sank back into the wall. Now I'm left with not enough pipe to attach the new OR old spout to.  That's what it is now, maybe 1/2-3/4" out from the finished wall? Here's the attachment piece I'm supposed to slide onto the remaining pipe for the new faucet to screw onto:  As you can see, the pipe is over an inch short of how long it needs to be. It doesn't have to go all the way the length of that adapter, but it has to go just past where it has the hexagonal sides where the set screw is to tighten it down. I THINK I can fix this via cutting an access panel in the closet opposite the shower wall. I didn't want to have to, but oh well, I guess at least it will be there for any potential future plumbing issues? Once I have the hole cut, my plan is for my girlfriend to push on the pipe so it sticks back out to where it was, then I can push the adapter on, tighten down the set screw, and then screw the faucet on. The hole in the wall is big enough that it will sink the adapter back into the hole, so I think I'll have to have her keep pushing on the pipe until I get the faucet slightly screwed onto the threads so that it can then stop the pipe from going back in. Of course, all that hinges on having enough "slack" in the pipe so I can attach the adapter. If there's not enough slack, I'm not sure what I can do...I don't think I'd be able to "reach around' to the front to de-solder and then re-solder on a longer piece of pipe...so I guess I'd have to pre-construct a pipe with the 90 degree elbow on it, and then go back up to the valve body and de-solder and re-solder in the new piece up there? DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Nov 20, 2022 |
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Nov 20, 2022 01:59
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Ja re-reading this from the other thread: get a piece of wire (coathanger?) around the vertical section (probably at the top) loop the wire around something to protect your hands (a rag, a stick, a pair of vise-grips) and have your GF hold it under tension long enough to attach the slip-on union & tighten it down. In the alternative, cut your hole for access, and install an access panel (buy one first so you know how big to cut your hole). A closet is ideal & you should have access to the mixer/valve assembly anyway.
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Nov 20, 2022 05:05
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PainterofCrap posted:Ja re-reading this from the other thread: get a piece of wire (coathanger?) around the vertical section (probably at the top) loop the wire around something to protect your hands (a rag, a stick, a pair of vise-grips) and have your GF hold it under tension long enough to attach the slip-on union & tighten it down. Yeah I actually think I'll do both, even if I can get a stiff wire around it. Because I'm not sure just how much pipe is in there, I'm not 100% certain I can get the new one on, since with the adapter piece it needs a longer length of pipe then the old one. So I'll try to get the wire on it, pull, and then reattach the old faucet so I have a working tub and shower. Then at my leisure I can install that access panel and then do whatever need to do for the new faucet after that.
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Nov 20, 2022 17:40
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We bought an apartment (lol) and there is rust around the bathtub drain; it does not look good. We plan on redoing the bathroom within the next year but in the meantime is there anything I can seal this with to make it usable? We have a baby that is too big for a baby tub but too small for a shower and it would be amazing to have a usable tub! 
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Nov 24, 2022 11:05
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Associate Christ
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If you only need a year or so out of the solution, there are a bunch of chipped bathtub epoxy kits that should bond nicely to that spot and get you a watertight seal around the drain.
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Nov 26, 2022 05:23
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PainterofCrap posted:Oh I don't know, this GE is still going strong after 83-years
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Nov 26, 2022 06:28
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I bought an apartment recently and sometime between open homes and settlement drain flies moved in. I’ve been covering all the drains and bug spraying the moths, but one night I left the covers off by accident and exposed the culprit drain. Washed all the exposed drains out with baking soda and vinegar today, and the one I suspected smelled ripe after treatment and boiling water. My question is, what’s the real deal on drain cleaners? Google is a minefield where even baking soda gets anywhere from 2 hours to overnight to solve problems (or ruin your drains permanently) and drain cleaners are apparently satans gift to property maintenance. If I actually want to clean this thing without causing permanent damage, what should I believe?
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Nov 27, 2022 09:53
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You need an exterminator, not a plumber. It doesn't sound like the drain is clogged from your description.
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Nov 27, 2022 16:40
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All of your drains should all seal with a slug of water sitting at the bottom of the trap. Running drain cleaner through your lines will not solve this, the flies live in the 95% airspace inside the pipes Check: - toilets - sinks - laundry tub / laundry drain standpipe Flies cannot get past a full trap, so it sounds like you have open air somewhere that is allowing the flies to escape from their normal habitat. If all of your drain traps are operating properly, and properly filled, then the culprit may be an open clean-out or other access tee.
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Nov 27, 2022 16:45
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Have you tried bleach? Baking soda + vinegar = water.
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Nov 27, 2022 17:18
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This threat hasn't been very active in a while, so here you go
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Dec 16, 2022 04:26
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"Yeah hi, where do you keep the octopus couplers?" "The what?" "The octopus couplers. I need to replace my old one." *shows picture* 
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Dec 16, 2022 04:39
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Nitrox posted:This threat hasn't been very active in a while, so here you go What? It's just your standard 3"x2.5"x3"x2"x2.5"x2"x3"x4"x5" tee
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Dec 16, 2022 05:22
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More like tee-hee
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Dec 16, 2022 05:43
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Sorry all I've got in stock is a 3"x2.5"x3"x2"x2.5"x2"x3"x4"x6" and our 5" to 6" adapters are out of stock, but I've got a 5" to 3" and a 3" to 6" that should get everything connected.
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Dec 16, 2022 05:44
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Alright, I feel very dumb, but am I looking at a Photoshop or...? Because there's no way that's sold, but it also doesn't appear to be hacked together.
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Dec 16, 2022 19:45
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Slugworth posted:Alright, I feel very dumb, but am I looking at a Photoshop or...? Because there's no way that's sold, but it also doesn't appear to be hacked together. Well I can find "Double Sanitary" fittings which are like 6 pipes, so maybe this is a rare "Triple Sanitary".
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Dec 16, 2022 20:41
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At least one more exists https://www.reddit.com/r/Plumbing/comments/u7ywql/has_anybody_ever_seen_a_fitting_like_this_before/
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Dec 17, 2022 23:53
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The catalog for those is crazy. I love the "4” No Hub Prison Fitting"
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Dec 18, 2022 01:36
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That catalog is pretty wild
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Dec 18, 2022 02:11
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My friend discovered that his PO used sharkbite couplers this morning
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Dec 23, 2022 20:33
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I have a gas tankless heater. If I drip the hot water faucet over night to keep it from freezing, will the heater fire up all night long?
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Dec 23, 2022 21:33
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Trickortreat posted:I have a gas tankless heater. If I drip the hot water faucet over night to keep it from freezing, will the heater fire up all night long? Doubtful - most tankless heaters are pretty terrible at detecting water flow and actually firing unless you have a faucet like ALL the way open to get it started. But just in case you should have a switch somewhere near it with a red plate that says something like emergency shutoff. It is completely safe to use that and simple turn it back on when you want it to run again. There won't be any need to do anything more than turn the switch back on to make it work again.
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Dec 23, 2022 21:43
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Mine requires 0.4gpm to fire since the minimum flame amount can otherwise risk boiling or something. Putting it to a trickle isn't going to fire it no matter what. It's in the spec sheet.
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Dec 23, 2022 22:08
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Crossposting from home thread. So my kitchen sink supply lines froze. TX, slab on grade, 03 build (I know), exterior wall. I cut out below the sink to see wtf is going on. But my big surprise is, instead of going down inside the stud wall the pipes are going…. out through the sheathing? Why the gently caress would they do that? I have brick veneer so I can’t really see what’s on the other side. I dunno why it’s allowed to run those pipes basically outside the house. Trying to thaw these now but wondering how I might be able to bring these to the stud wall in the future.   
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Dec 24, 2022 21:17
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So the put the risers from the slab up, on the outside of the sheathing? That seems to place the risers damned close to the edge of the slab...unless they come down from above.
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Dec 24, 2022 23:19
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Also on a slab in TX, they ran the water from above and most of the exterior walls have almost no insulation. So any faucets on exterior walls I just let drip when it's well below freezing out.
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Dec 25, 2022 05:07
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All my plumbing is from the slab, not above. This location is below a window. And my walls are insulated, I dunno where the idea that they’re not comes from unless you’re talking houses from the 40s.
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Dec 25, 2022 18:26
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H110Hawk posted:Mine requires 0.4gpm to fire since the minimum flame amount can otherwise risk boiling or something. Putting it to a trickle isn't going to fire it no matter what. It's in the spec sheet. Ah- this was what I needed to know. Thanks for your help! I found the spec sheet in the manual and it looks like it's .4gpm as well.
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Dec 26, 2022 17:13
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Was out of town during the recent cold wave in the mid-Atlantic (and seemingly everywhere else) and forgot to set my faucets on a drip, so now I'm paranoid about having a burst or frozen pipe somewhere. Did a quick run-through of the house and all of the faucets seem to be running smoothly, but we're supposed to get a thaw tomorrow so I figure any problem pipes will show themselves then. Anything I should be looking for when trying to find a busted pipe in a wall? FWIW, I was doubly-dumb and didn't turn my heat down before we left so I'm hoping indoor temps > 60 F might have saved me from trouble?
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Dec 27, 2022 04:27
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Smartest thing you could have done is left the heat on. Your hose bibs are the points that are liable to burst in these temps, if not shut off or if they are not frost-free. If you have a basement and are able, and are set up for it, shut off the supplies to your hose bibs. If they have frozen anywhere, it’ll be right at the fixture & where the supply line passes through the exterior wall.
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Dec 27, 2022 04:50
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If your faucets all work you are good as far as I know. I’m just glad I left my heat at 68 while I’m gone for 20 days I used to punch it down to 55. But we’ve never had -14 before here like now
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Dec 27, 2022 06:01
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