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ChesterJT
Dec 28, 2003

Mounty Pumper's Flying Circus
Already did. It's surprisingly unhelpful and the builders didn't follow the guides to a tee anyway. It shows the gas inlet on the right but it's coming from the left. The only time I see it mention the thermodisk is on the parts list and in the wiring diagram that of course doesn't show where it sits. I'll try to find a phone number tomorrow. The hatch is a brilliant idea, thanks for that!

https://manuals.fire-parts.com/aws-assets/majestic-gbr36-gbr36_install-pdf.pdf?inline=true

ChesterJT fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Dec 15, 2022

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A 50S RAYGUN
Aug 22, 2011
why in the gently caress is it so hard to find a modern line voltage thermostat that controls heating and cooling?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

A 50S RAYGUN posted:

why in the gently caress is it so hard to find a modern line voltage thermostat that controls heating and cooling?

What is "modern"? Are you talking zwave, etc or just programmable and possibly wireless? Because you can get the latter from Graninger et all.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

single stage heat/cool?

look for "line voltage Fan Coil" stats. the honeywell is TB6575A1000

they're still pilot duty only so if you're trying to do electric heat you still need a relay.

EDIT: yeah please define "modern".

do you need 7 day scheduling, IOT features, what?

A 50S RAYGUN
Aug 22, 2011
i don't even need any of that. i just want to walk into a big box store and be able to walk out holding the drat thermostat. everything either can't run baseboard heat or is heat only

Edit ye single stage

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

A 50S RAYGUN posted:

i don't even need any of that. i just want to walk into a big box store and be able to walk out holding the drat thermostat. everything either can't run baseboard heat or is heat only

Edit ye single stage

Very few places run line voltage for anything other than baseboard heat. Mostly older apartment buildings. If you don't live near a lot of those or other places that use them you're not going to find them retail.

And even if you do, a national chain big box store is probably the least likely place to find them. Local hardware stores and, if open to the public, the tradie hvac supply house are where you are most likely to walk in and be able to walk out with what you want.

A 50S RAYGUN
Aug 22, 2011
sorry - it's baseboard heating and single stage cooling, I guess that wasn't very clear

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

baseboard heat with single cool is special snowflake poo poo, sorry. Not a common setup at all.

order online, or get relays and a transformer to convert to a 24v thermostat.

Or if you can Follow The Code, go to a supply house or Industrial supply if you need it Immediately, but you'll pay for it.

A 50S RAYGUN
Aug 22, 2011
right now it looks like it's running off of a Honeywell ct3300. I'm guessing, since this box is from 1995, they haven't really continued that model family forward?

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Uh, that honeywell model isn't listed as line voltage. it appears to be 24v standard. you should be able to use whatever off the shelf.

A 50S RAYGUN
Aug 22, 2011
that...seems odd, doesn't it?

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

https://www.manua.ls/honeywell/ct3300/manual?p=2

be happy to help post you through this, but you gotta give us photos of whats actually there.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

A 50S RAYGUN posted:

that...seems odd, doesn't it?

Not at all. Someone else realized they didn't want to deal with a special snowflake thermostat and put in a contactor for the heat. It's how I would handle the situation.

You need to provide pictures/more info to get more advice as it sounds like you're in over your head right now and don't actually know what you have in sufficient detail for us to help.

A 50S RAYGUN
Aug 22, 2011
i mean, if someone else already did all the complicated work, and all I'm doing is putting in a new 24v thermostat, fair play makes my life easier

this is what's there, it's from when I replaced it last but whatever

Only registered members can see post attachments!

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Can you also post the back of the thermostat? Hopefully with a clear label in view?

A 50S RAYGUN
Aug 22, 2011
uh, yeah, I'll do my best

this is the same thermostat elsewhere in the house, my dad's asleep in his room and I told him I'd just have to take care of it next time I'm at his house but I took this on the way out

Aquila
Jan 24, 2003

PageMaster posted:

Please bear with me for the potentially long post! I'm going through some treatment at home which gives me a lot of time to troubleshoot and maybe gather too much info: My nest thermostat has started giving me an Error, (no power to RH wire) shortly after we turn the heat on, and I'm trying to figure out what's normal operation, and what's a problem. Naturally our home warranty company hired the worst rated contractor in the county to come look at it in a couple weeks so I'm just thinking about it while we wait. Here's the standard cycle that happens on the natural gas furnace when we turn the heater on:

1) Burners kick on, then shortly after the blower turns on

2) everything runs fine for maybe 5 minutes, at which point there's a click, the burners immediately shut off and the thermostat gives the no power to RH wire error, but the blower keeps running. After another minute the thermostat RH wire error goes away.

3) Maybe 5 minutes later, there's another click and the burners turn back on, and the cycle repeats (after so many minutes the burners shut off and I get the error on the thermostat). We figured something is wrong with our furnace and called home warranty, but as I started running through the furnace operations, I wondered if maybe it was working normally and the error is just a result of the normal process.

What i'm wondering is after the buners turn on, then the blower turns on once the heat exchanger reaches a certain temperature. At some point, the burners kick off, and I'm wondering if the burners are just shutting off because the heat exchanger/plenum has reached it's max temp, and this results in cutting power to the RH wire and giving me the error. Not sure why my RH wire power error goes away a minute later, but the blower keeps blowing which cools the heat exchanger and once it's cooled below a certain temp the burners kick back on. I can't find for certain if the furnace turning off the burners (or tripping the high limit) would cut power to the RH wire. I'm also not sure if this cycling of the burners turning on and off is normal, or if the furnace is expected to be finely tuned to the point that the temp/high limit shouldn't ever be tripped and the burners, air flow, etc. all keep the heat exchanger at that perfect middle temp.

This is extremely similar to the problem I had with my furnace recently (described a few pages ago). For me the solution was the furnace tech adjusting the gas pressure in the furnace. The tech also mentioned airflow as a potential issue, but decided it was unlikely for my specific system. Did filter/airflow changes end up fixing this for you?

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

A 50S RAYGUN posted:

i mean, if someone else already did all the complicated work, and all I'm doing is putting in a new 24v thermostat, fair play makes my life easier

this is what's there, it's from when I replaced it last but whatever



That's... something special.

This is where I would back the hell up and measure (with a good multimeter, not a Harbor Freight one) what kind of voltage you have there. If it's 120 or 240, you need an electrician out there to unfuck that.

A 50S RAYGUN
Aug 22, 2011
so yeah, this is all my dad's house. it was custom-built in the mid-80s, and as far as i know there's never really been much updating done to anything - when the climate control was put in, it was always central ac and either baseboard heating or forced air in a few places - on the kitchen island and two vanities in his bathroom.

at this point in my life i think i've like-for-like replaced all of the thermostats in the house - all of them honeywell ct3300s (maybe one of them had a suffix that had more advanced scheduling features or something). the only remaining box i have for one has a 1995 date on it so they weren't installed when the house is built but i guess it wasn't too long after that he started using them. i guess we finally used up his strategic reserves of mid-90s thermostats so this is the first time i've actually paid any attention to what i'm connecting, hence my earlier post. my dad isn't handy at all so it's not like he jury-rigged something himself.

fwiw, obviously this setup works - the thermostats can call for ac and heat. if i don't get 120 (or 240, i guess) on any of those lines should i be fine to just plug in most any 5-wire thermostat i find?

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

If you get anywhere from 20 to 28v ac you are in good shape. Anything else and we have a problem.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Alright our gas furnace went out. HVAC company thought it was the control board and the flame sensor was dead.

Replaced the control board (which took two weeks b/c it's an old rear end Lennox and they had to get the part). Didn't work. New guy figured out it's a short in the electrical harness and they can't find one anywhere since it's so old and would likely have to be a specialty order if they could even do that.

I asked for a quote on a new furnace install since honestly we probably need one anyway. The current Lennox is 27 years old.

Our seller gave us a home warranty (yeah yeah I hate them) so we did go through that. The HVAC company said they would cover the cost of the furnace plus install for that, but there were several things the company would not cover.

Mainly modifications and bringing stuff up to code. This was their invoice. So essentially it's $3700 worth of work for a new furnace. I just don't know if this is fair or comparable or what so I'm hoping to see if I can get any info on that here. They said these are baseline costs they add to every job. Since every new furnace install will involve gas, electrical, duct work etc.

Also the model they'd install would be a Goodman. Which... I feel like I've read bad things about here? But I can't remember.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
I would read your home warranty very carefully because permit and load calc and such all reads like part of a normal installation which should be covered. Spend the time. Why isn't duct mod covered? Does the warranty specifically exclude code upgrades as part of a replacement?

Go buy and install some CO detectors yourself and save $200.

Goodman from what I've learned here is a fine unit installable by anyone so it's up to the installer. If these people seem competent enough it should be fine enough.

$3500 is like half+ the entire cost of a new furnace and reads as "we want to profit more off this bottom of the barrel reimbursement from the warranty company."

It might also be a magical $3500 expedite fee.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Yeah I read it top to bottom and they actually called me to explain everything... So essentially, it does not cover anything that counts as a modification or bringing up to code... Since the ductwork isn't repairing broken or malfunctioning ductwork, it counts as a modification.

All of that stuff apparently is just "modification to get old stuff to fit new system" so its not covered.

edit: I am getting a second company out for just a price check, but I'm guessing paying $4k that includes some overinflated costs is better than paying $7k of an "honest" price.

edit 2: forgot to mention the CO detectors. They just have to check and see if we have them properly installed (we do, one in each bedroom and in living spaces at coded locations, plus a hardwired one right below the access to the furnace) and then wont' charge that if they're good to go.

BonoMan fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Dec 21, 2022

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
Hooking up old ductwork to a new unit is part of installation, not a modification.

But unless you take them to court over it, they're probably going to insist they don't cover it.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

SpartanIvy posted:

Hooking up old ductwork to a new unit is part of installation, not a modification.

But unless you take them to court over it, they're probably going to insist they don't cover it.

Yeah. Just another loving example of home warranty fuckery. I mean even if it comes out to less than not using the home warranty... It just pisses me off.

All of this is happening at Christmas and we've had to cancel family visiting and poo poo and it's just making me extra salty.

MRC48B
Apr 2, 2012

Hey man, lakehouses don't grow on trees.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Got two other quotes from companies. Was about what I expected.

$7000-7500ish all in.

I guess I'm "saving" a few grand.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
Make sure they install a 4" filter box with the new unit too. The 4" filters are so much better than the 1" filters and if you're shelling out for a new unit, now is the time to get all the "nice to haves".

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

SpartanIvy posted:

Make sure they install a 4" filter box with the new unit too. The 4" filters are so much better than the 1" filters and if you're shelling out for a new unit, now is the time to get all the "nice to haves".

They have a "Dealer suggested upgrade" of a 5" filter... for $625.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

BonoMan posted:

They have a "Dealer suggested upgrade" of a 5" filter... for $625.

Worth it.

stupid puma
Apr 25, 2005

It’s cold as poo poo here in Minnesota. First winter in a new-to-me house with a 2 zone Bryant furnace installed in 2019. The thermostat is showing a fault of “126 High Heat Cycle Active” and it sounds like the blower is running harder than normal but we’re still getting heat and the furnace appears to be keeping up just fine. I called the company that installed and while it might be covered under warranty since we still have heat they can’t get out to take a look until a week from now.

I reset the furnace and it appears to be working normal now but we’re leaving town tomorrow and given that it’s -1 outside I’m a little worried that we’re going to come home to broken pipes. Anyone have any idea what would cause this fault and whether we’re okay for another week if it comes back?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

When is the last time you changed your furnace filter? Was it with the same or a different kind?

Sounds like it's going off on high limit. Insufficient airflow will do that. In fact I think we just has someone in this thread or one of the home threads who put in a "better" filter recently and their unit had been going off on high limit because of it.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

BonoMan posted:

They have a "Dealer suggested upgrade" of a 5" filter... for $625.

Is that on top of the install fee or the cost if you were to have it added to an existing unit? Seems a bit high for something they could easily add to a new install with mostly just the cost of parts ($150 or so).

But it's probably worth it either way. the large filters are a game changer. We can definitely tell an improvement in our air quality since upgrading, and only changing filters out 2 or 3 times a year is so nice.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

SpartanIvy posted:

Is that on top of the install fee or the cost if you were to have it added to an existing unit? Seems a bit high for something they could easily add to a new install with mostly just the cost of parts ($150 or so).

But it's probably worth it either way. the large filters are a game changer. We can definitely tell an improvement in our air quality since upgrading, and only changing filters out 2 or 3 times a year is so nice.

The dealer didn't even bring it up to me. I just happened to notice it under an option on the documents he sent me. But yes it seems on top of the install fee as far as I can tell (I'll confirm).

stupid puma
Apr 25, 2005

Motronic posted:

When is the last time you changed your furnace filter? Was it with the same or a different kind?

Sounds like it's going off on high limit. Insufficient airflow will do that. In fact I think we just has someone in this thread or one of the home threads who put in a "better" filter recently and their unit had been going off on high limit because of it.

Filter looks to be within spec. I changed it and ran without a filter at all and it didn’t seem to matter. Fault is back. Still seems to be heating fine which is good because I’m 1500 miles away now and checking status with the app. Home ownership is the best!

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
It was properly cold for Stockholm for most of December and bro's geothermal A/C system isn't finished. There was a cold downdraft from the big hole bringing air up into the attic. After thinking about more complicated solutions for a few minutes this is what I came up with:



Apart from a form fitting winter plug that's not a plush shark from IKEA there needs to be some kind of cosmetic grate or mesh blocking that gaping hole, but sheet metal full of holes which was plan A is proving surprisingly difficult to find in sufficient dimensions, so the gaping hole is still there several months later. It's 600x600mm so it's a standard panel size for air stuff but it's a commercial size where things aren't really available to amateurs. Bro seems fine with the hole and the shark so I guess it's down to me to find some junk that can be modified to suit. Louvres or slats would work too I guess but ideally they should be at a 45 degree angle to the hole in order to block the sightline effectively from the parts of the hallway where your head is likely to be, and building such louvres nicely seems like a complicated and time consuming nightmare project to me. Same goes for drilling holes in my own sheet of metal. Metal with a nice hole pattern is probably still ideal since this part sits before the air filter so it's bound to get dirty and should be made with ease of cleaning in mind. The search continues.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Like many temporary closures of registers and vents in HVAC, that is begging for a piece of magnetic vinyl sheet stock. The kind they print temporary vehicle signs on.

But I do like the shark.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Print a shark on the sheet, bing bong problem solved.

A 50S RAYGUN
Aug 22, 2011
my friend's house has a furnace in the attic that isn't heated. it's 6 degrees and the condensate drain has frozen. that...seems like a no-no, right?

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

A 50S RAYGUN posted:

my friend's house has a furnace in the attic that isn't heated. it's 6 degrees and the condensate drain has frozen. that...seems like a no-no, right?

A furnace that produces condensate while heating should not be in an unconditioned space. If it doesn't fire they can try the old farmers trick of shoving a 60 watt lightbulb in there for 30 minutes. Should be enough to get it going again - so I've heard - not like I have ever incorrectly installed on of those in a pole barn that was only occasionally heated or anything. I definitely wouldn't have done that.

But if it's got a condensate pump or the condensate lines aren't sloped correct and something froze in there they're gonna run the risk of leaking condensate in places they don't want it.

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