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unknown posted:Those switches exist, but are small (eg 5 ports), and generally require 60/30+watt Poe ports feeding them and also usually only output the lowest possible like 7.5w which is just large enough for a simple VoIP phone. Thank you, that gives me something to search for. The device I'd want powered would be a unifi AP, I'd have to check how much power does it need. But I also need more ports, about 12 or so on the secondary switch. Maybe just powering that second switch by itself is better.
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Dec 22, 2022 04:03
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Volguus posted:Thank you, that gives me something to search for. The device I'd want powered would be a unifi AP, I'd have to check how much power does it need. But I also need more ports, about 12 or so on the secondary switch. Maybe just powering that second switch by itself is better. Do you not have power anywhere along that run? A PoE injector might be a better option.
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Dec 22, 2022 04:05
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Volguus posted:Thank you, that gives me something to search for. The device I'd want powered would be a unifi AP, I'd have to check how much power does it need. But I also need more ports, about 12 or so on the secondary switch. Maybe just powering that second switch by itself is better. https://store.ui.com/collections/unifi-network-switching/products/usw-flex Works great in horrible Canadian winters even! Indoors it's connected to a USW-Lite-8-POE.
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Dec 22, 2022 04:11
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fatman1683 posted:Do you not have power anywhere along that run? A PoE injector might be a better option. Oh, I do, and that's what I use now. It's just 100Mbps for the AP. Though, now looking at POE switches (new) with 12+ ports, them starting at $200CAD, kinda makes me think that 100Mbps for the wifi is fine. gently caress it. $200 is about $195 more than what is worth. Will check ebay, but I think I'll just leave it be. Eh, worthless wifi.
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Dec 22, 2022 04:13
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Volguus posted:Oh, I do, and that's what I use now. It's just 100Mbps for the AP. Though, now looking at POE switches (new) with 12+ ports, them starting at $200CAD, kinda makes me think that 100Mbps for the wifi is fine. gently caress it. You can buy an injector that supports gigabit for like  , just do that.
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Dec 22, 2022 17:24
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Inept posted:You can buy an injector that supports gigabit for like Yes, but another goal was to reduce the number of cables. As it stands right now, with the poe adapter, the AP has 3 wires: 2 cat and 1 power. And the switch has its own power cable, which it seems that will have to stay. I guess it's gonna have to be from ebay if I don't wanna overspend for what is essentially just an aesthetical and minor speed improvement.
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Dec 22, 2022 17:43
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finally have gigabit internet at my home, and the router provided by Spectrum loving sucks well, the connectivity is alright I guess, but I cant easily change anything like the network name, password, etc instead of just logging in to the router's IP, I have to use a piece of poo poo app on my phone. the app sucks and is slow as hell, I can't find port forwarding options, etc so I'm looking for a new router, but I can't be sure that the ones I've looked at on Amazon and bestbuy will allow changing anything without a mobile app. the documentation I've looked at for various models only show directions for a mobile app, and make no mention of just logging in to the router what's a good wifi 6 router in the sub $200 range that will allow me to fiddle with settings directly?
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Dec 22, 2022 18:02
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CaptainSarcastic posted:Have you ever set a static IP on it or something else in the house? It sounds like it could be two devices contending for the same IP address. Nope never did. Would it possibly help if we changed the ip address? Though not sure how to do that.
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Dec 22, 2022 19:17
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isaboo posted:what's a good wifi 6 router in the sub $200 range that will allow me to fiddle with settings directly? What level of fiddling are you looking to do? Mikrotik's stuff is pretty much pro-grade from a feature perspective, and they have a model with WiFi 6 and 5x1G for $99. If you want something a bit more consumer-friendly that should still allow you to do stuff like port forwarding over a web interface, Netgear's WAX202 is $50 new on Amazon. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Dec 22, 2022 |
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Dec 22, 2022 22:08
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oh hell yeah, the mikrotik one will definitely work. thanks!
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Dec 22, 2022 22:56
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Good luck finding either the hAP ax2 or ax3 in stock anywhere. That Netgear WAX202 is supported by OpenWRT if that matters to you.
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Dec 22, 2022 23:04
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actually, that does matter! thanks!
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Dec 22, 2022 23:07
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My entire house is MicroTik these days, and I simp super hard for them - - you get a wild feature set on decent hardware for a fraction of the cost you'd pay and it's all very 'no bullshit'. I say that with the standard MicroTik caveat though: there are no gaurd rails on these devices and you can absolutely gently caress poo poo up. I insist that it's a platform worth learning at the end of the day.
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Dec 24, 2022 23:33
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Okay, so what's the zeitgeist on home mesh wireless? I have a pair of ASUS RT-AC68U routers that are configured to use as AiMesh internal access points using the internal LAN ports as gig switches and wired backhaul to my network core. And I am sick to death of these POSes. They spontaneously break mesh, isolating half of my house. They lock up and kill wireless completely. Blah blah blah. So I'm looking for a new set of access points that have full-mesh capability and have a few questions/requirements: 1. Is there a need for cat-5e gigabit wired backhaul lines anymore? I'm currently using them for my ASUS WAPs, but if technology has moved on, then so be it 2. I am looking for access points only. No managed firewall, no parental controls, no security addons 3. a couple of ethernet ports is a nice to have so I can use them as switches for additional wired gear 4. I have a 4 bedroom 3000' two-story house (with an entertainment center and extensive home office) that's rectangular in shape with bedrooms along the length of the upstairs and an entertainment center 5. at the moment there are 20+ devices using my wireless network (smart watches, laptops, phones, IoT devices) spread evenly across both WAPs 6. SNMP and syslog capability is a nice to have
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Dec 25, 2022 23:36
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I am newly intrigued by powerline networking... I have a set of driveway lights along my driveway, which is probably ~50 meters long or so. Conduit run under the driveway / in the fence 30 years ago and is on its own dedicated circuit (yay) so I have AC power out there, but it would be virtually impossible to run Ethernet out there. I want to put a camera down there (Ubiquiti G4) and I have AC power, so I was thinking I could do a powerline networking setup and then toss a PoE injector in a junction box out there. 1. Are there things similar to MoCA filters that prevent signaling from escaping out to the grid / help w/ security? 2. Is there a way to keep it isolated to only a single circuit? IIRC it's a ~10 MHz carrier coupled onto the AC lines; I could put a low-pass filter (assuming I can find something UL listed) or similar to attenuate the signal to avoid issues from it bouncing around my entire house. (Breaker -> Filter -> <PLC Adapter> -> driveway lighting circuit). 3. Any recommendations for units that can tolerate VLANs + have knobs to tweak (i.e., if I want to force 100 Mbit operation, not have auto-neg, etc etc)? Agrikk posted:Okay, so what's the zeitgeist on home mesh wireless? I use UniFi APs / switches, with an EdgeRouter 4 (probably going to be OPNsense soon). 1. If you have copper running from point-to-point to support the APs, it will always be superior to wireless backhaul, even if that has dedicated radios for it. 2. UniFi APs is what I would go for -- you don't have to run UniFi OS (and I wouldn't, personally... though I use it for my parents) for routing. Just need the controller running somewhere to manage the APs. 3. UniFi in-wall units can do this; most of the APs do not. Flex Minis are $30 though, and PoE powered. 4. I run 5 APs in a 2200 sf house, with 4 floors + garage. Not all broadcast 2.4, and I've tuned the minimum RSSI / transmit powers so they can all run at the lowest transmit power. It is painful though only have 2 non-DFS 5 GHz channels to use at 80 MHz bandwidth; UI does not seem to support U-NIII frequencies up at channel 161 yet (and I don't know if client devices would either). 5. I run three SSIDs -- main network (2.4/5 same SSID) and then infrastructure and infrastructure_24 (used for IoT poo poo, separate VLAN). The latter two run with extremely low allowable bitrates (maximize compatibility) and adjusted DTIM thresholds for the entirely too many ESP32-WROOM-based IoT things I have. 6. I think the UniFi controller allows you to forward to a remote syslog server but I haven't bothered setting it up yet.
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Dec 26, 2022 22:10
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I'd like to start making my own Ethernet cables. Are there goon favorite tools/cables/connectors?
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Dec 27, 2022 00:25
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Not worth it, just buy them in the proper lengths. If you’re terminating a couple of ends for a camera to shove back up into a soffit or whatever, your local hardware store will have what you need. You don’t need a nice crimper for home stuff.
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Dec 27, 2022 00:32
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With inexperience, bad connectors and a bad crimper you'll turn that one cable into a 90 minute ordeal with questionable results at the end though.
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Dec 27, 2022 01:04
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don't do it, OP
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Dec 27, 2022 02:49
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Point taken. I'll let monoprice make them for me
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Dec 27, 2022 03:01
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I'm having an unfun time maintaining a stable wifi connection. The connection burps for about 3-5 seconds at a time periodically. That's only a problem because I'm trying to whittle away my remaining youth with online games, and get kicked out of them when the connection drops. It happens at different times throughout the day, and some days not at all. I'm especially struggling to automatically connect when I log in - I have to cycle the connection several times to get any stability. Everything was fine when I took this machine to another dwelling during the holidays. So, I figure the problem is physically here somewhere, and is somehow related to the environment. - Very basic Archer C7/1750 router. Updated the firmware after the problems began, which may have helped somewhat. - Computer is in the same room as the router. - Router services at most two devices at once (phone and laptop). - The problem persists between 2.4GHz and 5GHz. - My wifi card is a MediaTek Wifi-6 MT17921, if that helps. I live in a busy apartment building. InSSIDer revealed several dozen networks, with an especially congested 2.4GHz band. Even so, it only raised a co-channel interference warning bubble for a moment. 5GHz is pretty open, but that doesn't seem to be helping me. Any thoughts are appreciated.
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Dec 27, 2022 03:26
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Red Crown posted:- Computer is in the same room as the router. My friend, have you heard of Ethernet?
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Dec 27, 2022 03:41
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Red Crown posted:I'm having an unfun time maintaining a stable wifi connection. The connection burps for about 3-5 seconds at a time periodically. That's only a problem because I'm trying to whittle away my remaining youth with online games, and get kicked out of them when the connection drops. It happens at different times throughout the day, and some days not at all. I'm especially struggling to automatically connect when I log in - I have to cycle the connection several times to get any stability. Everything was fine when I took this machine to another dwelling during the holidays. So, I figure the problem is physically here somewhere, and is somehow related to the environment. Big question - does it happen to multiple devices at the same time, especially on an ethernet connection? In other words, how certain are you that this isn't your ISP?
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Dec 27, 2022 13:47
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Flipperwaldt posted:With inexperience, bad connectors and a bad crimper you'll turn that one cable into a 90 minute ordeal with questionable results at the end though. Is this a situation where I should hire someone to punch these down or is that something I can do as an amateur without loving it up? And if so, any recommended tools? I'd be willing to pay more if it means less frustration on my end
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Dec 27, 2022 14:02
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Epiphyte posted:So my house was prewired with Cat 6, but literally just wired, the cable ends unterminated with blanking plates in the various rooms and also in the "network closet" in my mudroom You can do it; it's not difficult, but you need to make sure the wiring order is the exact same on both sides. Take your time and it will be fine.
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Dec 27, 2022 14:26
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So crimping is used to mean taking a 8p8c connector and crimping it into the end of a cable, effectively making a patch cable. That’s what everyone recommends avoiding, as your spending time and money to do something that’s easy to mess up when you can buy Machine made for a few bucks. “Punching down” on the other hand is something you should be doing, especially for wall runs, when you use a punch down tool to terminate a cable at a wall plate, a patch panel, or a keystone jack. It’s pretty easy and cheap to do and you can get everything you need from Lowe’s/Home Depot for under $50. No need to hire anyone. I use a very cheap one like https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eclipse-Tools-Type-110-Punchdown-Tool-Bundle-902-353/206304246 at home, although you can spend a little more for a decent one.
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Dec 27, 2022 14:28
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Yeah punching down into blocks for cat6 is easy as hell. Watch a YouTube vid / read the instructions for the end blocks etc to make sure you get the right color wire in the right place and that’s it. Dead simple.
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Dec 27, 2022 14:59
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But for god's sake get a cable tester.
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Dec 27, 2022 15:09
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Both the keystone jacks and the punchdown block panel that I got to run ethernet through my house had included color diagrams on them so I didn't need to look up anything, and the jacks didn't even need the tool. Super easy, though it took me a few tries to realize the punchdown tool was not rotationally symmetric and the "long" side went on the outside of the block. Sure I spent zero attention on which end of the cables were wired which way so half of them are probably crossover but whatever autodetect has worked for that for like 15 years I don't care. Making my own patch cables though was a giant pain in the rear end and after like two attempts that has 2/8 connectors connected I gave up and just ordered some. No regrets.
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Dec 27, 2022 15:25
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so whats the difference between punching down and making patch cables? don't you do the same thing pretty much? excuse my ignorance I have no idea
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Dec 27, 2022 15:40
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Punching down creates a female end while crimping creates the male end.
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Dec 27, 2022 15:42
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Crimping has become substantially easier in the last decade with the widespread adoption of multi piece rj45s where you preload the little guide piece before sliding it into the plug for crimping. Used to be you had to try to load the bite two or three times before crimping because one wire or another would always jump to a different position at the last possible moment.
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Dec 27, 2022 15:45
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Yeah modular RJ45 plugs/jacks are what you want to search for, they are so much easier.
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Dec 27, 2022 16:04
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The old style rj45 that was just like ramming all the floppy wires in cramped recessed holes and praying for the best is what I was talking about. Like sticking a rope up a chimney. Stripped too much insulation. Not enough. Wires not of the right inequal length. Looks good. Crimp. Test. Cry. Didn't force one wire exactly deep enough. Can't test until you crimped, can't restart without cutting off the connector. Again and again. It was when I learned there were connectors that were open at both ends, where you could just stick the wires through them and trim the excess afterwards that things got a bit better. I modified some of my old connectors to do this with a dremel, which worked adequately. Multi piece sounds even better.
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Dec 27, 2022 16:38
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 That’s my homeowner Ethernet kit; punching down is super easy and there is zero reason to not do it if you are able too. If I have to crimp an end, those are the Klein pass through jacks which make it absurdly easy to crimp since you can feed the individual wires through and not worry about length. If you are making your own, you will also want a tester. Only reason I have made my own is for camera and AP runs but I’ve started to just end in a female jack + punch down and use a 0.5 ft or 1 ft patch from Monoprice. Slim run cables are awesome. Also, bump on Powerline Networking question
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Dec 27, 2022 19:09
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Adhemar posted:My friend, have you heard of Ethernet? I could in a pinch, but I'd have to move my desk around to an awkward corner of the room. Shugojin posted:Big question - does it happen to multiple devices at the same time, especially on an ethernet connection? In other words, how certain are you that this isn't your ISP? It's hard to tell because I don't use multiple devices for latency sensitive activities at once. It could be - but since I'm not online gaming on my phone AND my laptop at once (or on my phone period), I don't know. Are there any tools that could tell me? Edit: Update: I got frustrated enough to buy an extended ethernet cable and my connection is stable. So I'm guessing there's something up with the router, or interface between router and device. Red Crown fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Dec 31, 2022 |
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Dec 27, 2022 19:32
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Anyone ever see a DHCP Client just ignore offers? I got a wired Roku device and it throws ethernet errors (times out trying to connect). I setup port mirroring and I can see clearly it is sending out discovers and getting offers, but just seems to ignore them and send another discover. I can't figure out if: A) Internally the Roku's ethernet is hosed up and it's just not receiving anything. This is still possible, I suppose. Nothing in the wireshark logs would actually indicate it for sure receives a packet and is aware of it, as it never gets that far. B) Something about the DHCP Offer it doesn't like? I think my offers are missing domains (option 15), I'm not sure why my DHCP server doesn't send one, and no other client has ever had a problem without it. I noticed it requests subnet (1)/router (3)/dns (6)/domain (15)/host name (12). The offers have 1,3,6, 51 (lease time), and 54 (Server ident). EDIT: I added a domain for the DHCP offer and it still doesn't work so I'm just returning this POS. Rescue Toaster fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Dec 30, 2022 |
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Dec 30, 2022 18:17
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UK goon here. My previous ISP (Plusnet) only supported IPv4 and I had to do some funky configuration to the router firewall settings and NAT to allow me and my stepson to game on our Xboxes at the same time in the same game - Call of Duty was completely unplayable by the other if we both were starting the game. Changing to my current ISP (BT) FTTP connection has given us no issues, as it supports IPv6 (I think that's what makes the difference). I'm able to change to a much cheaper ISP (Vodafone) in February but I don't believe they support IPv6, even though they're using BT's infrastructure. If I were to go with Vodafone, I take it we'd have potential connection issues again? Or would a third party router help? It's £30/month less so it's not pocket change but if it's basically a certainty that we'll get issues again I'll have to stick with BT.
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Dec 30, 2022 19:29
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Epiphyte posted:So my house was prewired with Cat 6, but literally just wired, the cable ends unterminated with blanking plates in the various rooms and also in the "network closet" in my mudroom Almost the exact situation: My house was wired with coax screw on jacks and and Cat5E to every room....BUT they terminated them as RJ11 for some stupid reason. They all terminate in the room I use as my office, so literally all the running the cable is done. So my questions: 1) I should be able to just cut the ends, and rewire to RJ45, and get some new wall plates off monoprice? 2) I have 5 connections, it makes sense to just get like an 6 jack wall plate in the office, assuming that exists, and run it to the switch/router? 3) Is there an easy test to see if I'm matching up one end to one end, or do I need to get under the house and track all the cables to label them accurately?
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Dec 30, 2022 22:57
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Jaxyon posted:Almost the exact situation: 1. You can do this, I did it at my last house with no problem. 2. You can do this too, but make sure your keystone jacks aren’t too big. Some are the right size to fit in a 6-keystone plate, some are a little too crowded to pull it off. 3. Get a cheap cable tester, you’ll want to at least check continuity of the different wires.
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Dec 30, 2022 23:12
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