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Feeling pretty proud of these armiger legs, but i do want to take suggestions on how to shade these bad boys  
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Dec 29, 2022 06:38
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| # ? May 25, 2024 00:38 |
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My Spirit Otter posted:Feeling pretty proud of these armiger legs, but i do want to take suggestions on how to shade these bad boys That purple is so clean and pure and and everything is spot on, it looks really good, I would be really light and careful with shading, one mistake keep making is slathering alot of wash and shade but that makes the color too dark, I would strongly encourage you to make youre shading as light and wash as light and selective as possible, that purple is so luscious I could eat off of it and it would be a shame to make it too muddy.
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Dec 29, 2022 08:14
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Oil wash that bad boy imo
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Dec 29, 2022 10:55
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 I finished my first Krieg Veteran, I got as far as possible before it's time to move on before I cake the thing too much, as a proof of concept for the overall colors I think I have a good idea, however working on this pointed out to me that I have almost no variety in my blue colors, it's all prussian and flat blue, even the flourescent is too dark, I will absolutely buy a couple more blue colors when I can to get the right saturation and brightness, definitely gonna pause the krieg and wait for those different blues before trying again. overall I'm happy with it. I also really need to figure out a better system for the eyes, I tried putting gold under the spiritstone red technical but it doesnt have the real depth and oomph you see in better painted models and eyes. Anyways, I'll try a couple different things on the next Veteran, if you have any advice or criticism I would greatly appreciate it. Also I dont know why my phone decided to add such a strong warm tone to everything, it really took away alot of the richness of color.
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Dec 29, 2022 17:59
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My Spirit Otter posted:Feeling pretty proud of these armiger legs, but i do want to take suggestions on how to shade these bad boys I would either glaze darker towards the bottom of the panels and lighter towards the top (longest amount of time), or maybe do an interior hightlight line on each panel (so just inside of the gold trim), or perhaps just weather the bottom half-ish of the legs with whatever weathering techniques you want. If you are going to wash the whole thing I'd really work to have my brushstrokes going downwards and build your darkening wash downwards in multiple layers and don't go all over, slowly work your way down so it builds thicker towards the bottom. edit: you could also hit those rivets with highlights either painted a lighter purple or metallic depending on perference, and possibly those feet/toes should be edge highlighted, washed, weathered in some way.
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Dec 29, 2022 18:12
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Al-Saqr posted:
Maybe for the eyes you can do a deeper red over a black and not fully paint the eye so the red fades into black?
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Dec 29, 2022 20:16
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If I could make a separate suggestion, the trousers may look more natural in a more tan or khaki color. One thing I've noticed in models I like is that color coding the different materials helps convert their texture. You've somewhat done this, with the blue for leather, the brown for his coat, etc. You've used that exact yellow over two different armored surfaces already, so it's just a little confusing visually. It's not a big concern, and your scheme is looking pretty great as is.
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Dec 29, 2022 21:06
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moths posted:If I could make a separate suggestion, the trousers may look more natural in a more tan or khaki color. Yeah! trousers are supposed to be tan and khaki! I lll see if i can fix it up a little more, i mustve done something wrong with the color mixing... What are the two armor pieces that are confusing? One thing im confused by is thag the camera isnt communicating that the shoulder pads, helmet trim and wrists are all gold color.... its genuinely confusing why my phone camera os acting like this... Thanks for your advice! Ill try to find a better way to make light brown into khakhi or tan!
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Dec 29, 2022 21:34
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Al-Saqr posted:
I just wanted to say that your color scheme is fuckin sick as hell, the warm browns and rich blue pop off so well against each other, and the black helmet just works
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Dec 29, 2022 21:35
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Silhouette posted:I just wanted to say that your color scheme is fuckin sick as hell, the warm browns and rich blue pop off so well against each other, and the black helmet just works Yeah this. Between these and those amazing purple Saints Row robot legs this page is making me very happy. I am a good visual artist and a terrible mini painter and I love being a beginner at stuff. You learn so much.
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Dec 29, 2022 21:37
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Silhouette posted:I just wanted to say that your color scheme is fuckin sick as hell, the warm browns and rich blue pop off so well against each other, and the black helmet just works Thanks dude, i think overall i have a really good and solid design, now its about tightening up and figuring out the overall best formula for the rest, i think though i will order a few more richer and slightly lighter shades of blue and see how that affects things.
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Dec 29, 2022 21:41
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Al-Saqr posted:What are the two armor pieces that are confusing? One thing im confused by is thag the camera isnt communicating that the shoulder pads, helmet trim and wrists are all gold color.... its genuinely confusing why my phone camera os acting like this... On my phone it looks like the shoulders and then a strip above the visor are the same yellow as his trousers - it might be your camera then.
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Dec 29, 2022 22:04
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Spent most of last year not able to afford basically anything, then got a new job. Got my air brush working for priming and 90-ish percent of the paints I want. Really want to finally finish the Tyarnid army I started in like the mid 90s.
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Dec 29, 2022 22:23
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tangy yet delightful posted:I would either glaze darker towards the bottom of the panels and lighter towards the top (longest amount of time), You can do the opposite too, just highlighting whatever edge is protruding out furthest. Like this (not mine):  I've found success with this approach. Light to dark was easiest. I highlight the edges then glaze down towards recessed areas (whether they're at the top or bottom). Also this Trovarion vid helped me a lot. I'm always interested in how other people approach this bc it seems like 80-90% of minis most people paint are typically humanoid and have lots of texture and curvature, whereas Battletech minis (which I paint) are vaguely humanoid collections of flat surfaces and blocky armor plates. I have yet to find a straightforward guide to shading these surfaces (aside from the helpful image showing zenithal, illuminated panels, and modulation, which appears to be inspired by the Mig Jiminez book that has excellent examples but is slim on theory) and it seems like a lot of painters, including Duncan Rhodes, simply gloss over it entirely and focus instead on weathering or edge highlighting. After painting a bunch of these robots the only advice I feel confident saying is that you can't just throw contrasts on it and call it done. It'll collect in weird places, even if you babysit it. By the time you've ironed out these pools, you've basically just applied a filter, and there are ways to do this that don't require babysitting. Contrast and washes is good for shading recesses, and this is what Duncan Rhodes does, but he has to apply another basecoat afterwards to bring up the contrast and paper over the mess. I'm in the middle of an Ice Ferret now where I tried a few things and I'll post when I'm done to get feedback, but I'm interested in what other people do in the meantime.
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Dec 30, 2022 00:54
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Mr Teatime posted:This may be a stupid question but did it pump up to its cut out pressure then stop? Is there pressure in the tank? It doesn't even have a tank so just pumps continuously. I am trying out brush priming on a model kit I have and doing my first paint project with it before I go onto minatures proper and so far it seems to work alright brushing the army painter air primer straight on. Takes time, but after some consideration, it might be better because I don't want to add paint dust to the room I am working it.
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Dec 30, 2022 03:51
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Marx Headroom posted:You can do the opposite too, just highlighting whatever edge is protruding out furthest. Like this (not mine): Yes! Yes thats the lens look im trying to go for! Thanks for pointing me in the right direction! I just downloaded the citadel color app, its a handy guide for finding out and guessing the right color combos for that look even if youre gonna get the paint from others, to me, the colors that represent the blues i want is celestium, asurmen and teclis. Good to know! Al-Saqr fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Dec 30, 2022 |
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Dec 30, 2022 05:49
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Just have to finish the back of the torso and this warglaive is done until i decide how i want to shade it   
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Dec 30, 2022 09:49
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GreenBuckanneer posted:What's the damage for everyone this year in terms of putting paint on models? I don't mean assembling and priming, I mean like, working on a model enough to be "done with it for the time being" So, rather than counting each individual character, I'll just count the number of strips I'd had on popsicle sticks that are now fully based and varnished. Between my full army and the four heroes I have painted and based (but waiting for warmer weather to varnish and flock), all in all I managed to bang out 72 strips of minis in 2022. Honestly, a whole helluva lot more than I thought I'd do, but definitely not all of what I actually need to get done. There's also every mini in the Hasbro re-release of Heroquest released so far that I need to prime and paint as well, which is going to be way harder to do since I'm so used to doing 10mm now.
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Dec 30, 2022 09:57
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Praise Hail Satan, wip. Haven't painted in a couple of weeks and my brush control is out the window. Not even going to try eyes at this stage. Busts are fun though, strongly recommend for anyone looking to paint something different. 
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Dec 30, 2022 10:44
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My Spirit Otter posted:Just have to finish the back of the torso and this warglaive is done until i decide how i want to shade it Looks great! Very clean, I’m jealous of your brush control
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Dec 30, 2022 12:08
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Got my octarius terrain sprues from the goddamn germans!  Really wonderful looking terrain so happy i got it half off
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Dec 30, 2022 17:29
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I went and bought a McFarlane Ogryn Artist's Proof version, ie. a 23cm tall Ogryn. For painting. This thing is so huge that I'll kinda need to re-learn a bunch of stuff, chiefly how to paint skin properly. I remember once seeing a tutorial for how to paint realistic looking skin on busts etc, but damned if I can find anything now. Can anyone think of good tutorials to look at? This Kings of War Giant is the biggest humanoid model I've ever done previously, and while the skin turned out OK, I could do better. I want to do better.   (turns out I only have WIP shots of the guy, and it's too dark by far to photograph anything now in Finland)
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Dec 30, 2022 19:12
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I notice the OP doesn't have any info on it, but have people found good ways to organize pieces of wildly different sizes / categories / etc? Preferably portable, but I have both my painting station at home and D&D games I travel to and am trying to find a good solution (or set of solutions). I'm using a random dewalt toolbox atm because it has good deep containers for some larger pieces, but it doesn't let me categorize very well.
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Dec 30, 2022 20:24
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Skyl3lazer posted:I notice the OP doesn't have any info on it, but have people found good ways to organize pieces of wildly different sizes / categories / etc? Preferably portable, but I have both my painting station at home and D&D games I travel to and am trying to find a good solution (or set of solutions). I glue magnets under my bases, then you can either use metal biscuit tins (or assorted other tins they sell for craft stuff but big ones that would fit tall minis get pricier than you'd think) or glue a steel baking sheet (or cut steel sheet, or some people have used flexible magnetic sheets they use for sticking temporary logos on vans but I havent tried that myself) into the bottom of a plastic tub. You can buy the tubs with the lids that lock on and are stackable in a wide variety of heights. I'm not really sure what you mean by catagorise tbh, but you could have a different tub for whatever catagories you want?
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Dec 30, 2022 20:49
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SiKboy posted:I glue magnets under my bases, then you can either use metal biscuit tins (or assorted other tins they sell for craft stuff but big ones that would fit tall minis get pricier than you'd think) or glue a steel baking sheet (or cut steel sheet, or some people have used flexible magnetic sheets they use for sticking temporary logos on vans but I havent tried that myself) into the bottom of a plastic tub. You can buy the tubs with the lids that lock on and are stackable in a wide variety of heights. I'm not really sure what you mean by catagorise tbh, but you could have a different tub for whatever catagories you want? I use the flexible magnetic sheets stuck to the bottom of plastic storage bins. The strength of the hold definitely is weaker than to sheet metal, but it's been more than sufficient for my needs.
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Dec 30, 2022 21:10
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My magnets + looted cookie tin solution. The large (ork) bases are slightly taller so the force holding them is a bit weaker than on the smaller (grot hanging on the side, the blue squig orb), so if you got heavy models you'll want add something to make the magnets flush with the bottom edge of the base. Molrok fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Dec 30, 2022 |
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Dec 30, 2022 21:24
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The flushness of the magnet to the bottom of the base definitely matters. You can use green stuff to provide some backing, or just buy flush-fit base magnets that are made the right thickness for GW bases: https://themagnetbaron.com/products/gw-flush-fit-base-magnets-large
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Dec 30, 2022 21:32
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Set your magnets into hot glue on the underside of your bases then immediately stick them to metal sheets with wax paper on top for easier removal when the glue hardens. That's how you get flush fit regardless of base or magnet size (well assuming your magnets aren't thicker than the base to start with.
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Dec 30, 2022 21:42
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Skyl3lazer posted:I notice the OP doesn't have any info on it, but have people found good ways to organize pieces of wildly different sizes / categories / etc? I have a lot of 'Mechs, so I got a cheap wineglass storage box (meant for moving, primarily) with canvas sides and a decent bottom and three layers of 3" pluck-apart foam. It's overkill but it keeps my robits well protected in transport. I'm going to need at least one more.   It's not the toughest and one of the zippers has already died, but it's square-sided and light which means no wasted volume (other than my own poor foam-plucking choices)
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Dec 30, 2022 22:05
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In the grim darkness of the far future, there are only Baby Bjorns
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Dec 30, 2022 22:36
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 I have spent like six hours just on this drat axe. (And this picture isn't even quite finished, I missed two barnacles that I spotted in the pic and fixed afterward, and the bones won't be finished off until I assemble the mini.
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Dec 30, 2022 22:54
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I like this. It looks like you went to get cookies only to find some orks had krumped all the biscuits. In the grim darkness of the far future there are only crumbs
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Dec 30, 2022 23:54
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 I’m not sure you’ll be able to see this little guy once the face is on, but I’ll know he’s in there, piloting the squig
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Dec 31, 2022 00:37
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NinjaDebugger posted:
This is a great-looking axe though to be fair
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Dec 31, 2022 00:50
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Low effort paint jobs mean low effort pictures. Grinding through my pile of shame to finish halfway completed units Impulsor    5th bladeguard vet to have a squad of them ride in the impulsor. I've had 4 painted up for like 2 years now and finally felt like painting the last one   
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Dec 31, 2022 01:36
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Sick. I love the snow inside the troop compartment.
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Dec 31, 2022 02:05
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AndyElusive posted:Sick. I love the snow inside the troop compartment. AK snow and snow sprinkles are actually way better than I thought they would be once I figured out how to use them
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Dec 31, 2022 02:24
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tangy yet delightful posted:Set your magnets into hot glue on the underside of your bases then immediately stick them to metal sheets with wax paper on top for easier removal when the glue hardens. I put the magnets down on the metal first, put the hot glue on the magnet, then put the mini down on that.
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Dec 31, 2022 02:33
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Probably my last mini of the year: He's a loxodon wizard from Stonehaven, but I'm using him as my Circle of Stars druid. Definitely a lot of stuff I should have don't differently, but I've also have the added fun of dealing with food poisoning or something all week, so... I just don't care. It's done, and that's what matters most.
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Dec 31, 2022 03:14
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There's been a space marines kill team sitting on my desk, unpainted, for like months now. I don't want to paint them as Minotaurs like the rest of my army but I also can't really find a color scheme that interests me enough to pursue it. I'd do Lamenters but I have no good way of doing the checkerboard. Any suggestions?
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Dec 31, 2022 03:19
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