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If I'm going to paint sanded plywood, do I need to put down any sort of initial coating or can I just go right to paint?
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Dec 29, 2022 21:10
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C-Euro posted:If I'm going to paint sanded plywood, do I need to put down any sort of initial coating or can I just go right to paint?
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Dec 29, 2022 21:20
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Nope it’s just like painting any other raw wood. Primer and lightly scuff sanding after the first coat are always good ideas. Would it looked messed up if I put something like polyurethane down first before painting? We're putting in a wall-length shelf and had thought to go with the unfinished wood look at first, but I think the seams between the pieces will stick out unless painted as the plywood isn't uniform in color (ignore the ugly edge, the back wall there is uneven and we're covering the edge with trim)-  Was hoping to see how it looks with poly first before making a decision to paint it or not, but I might just paint it a simple white and be done with it.
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Dec 29, 2022 23:17
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Things don't stick very well to cured polyurethane, you even have to scuff up cured poly to get a mechanical bond for additional layers. If you want to see how it looks with just poly, you can wet it with mineral spirits and that will give an okay approximation.
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Dec 29, 2022 23:40
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Or dig out an off-cut and put some poly on that. Painting over poly is possible but it's a huge pain in the rear end. Plain white would look fine against the blue walls, imo.
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Dec 29, 2022 23:46
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As I'm now stuck to what I can build in an apartment, I bought a Ryoba saw and man, are they easy to use. Effortless to make square cuts.
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Dec 30, 2022 02:30
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:"and then you teach them to sand" is hilarious. There's a picture of me age 3 or so with a sanding block and piece of wood, looking either intense or annoyed. Probably both, sanding sucks.
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Dec 30, 2022 03:10
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e. oh I was confused nevermind
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Dec 30, 2022 06:51
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For y’all thinking of sending your younglings off to do your sanding for you, hear these words of warning: When my son was 3, he got a hold of a sanding block and went to town on every reachable surface of my two week-old BMW x1. It was a staggering repair bill for a few minutes of work, one I plan to present to him on his 18th birthday.
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Dec 30, 2022 16:13
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Mister Dog posted:For y’all thinking of sending your younglings off to do your sanding for you, hear these words of warning: When my son was 3, he got a hold of a sanding block and went to town on every reachable surface of my two week-old BMW x1. It was a staggering repair bill for a few minutes of work, one I plan to present to him on his 18th birthday. Brutal. My stepson's first paid job was sanding a trade show booth a friend and I were building one summer. He was maybe 14, iirc. Friend's son was also a paid grunt, but he whined and moped much of the time, while my stepson really got after it. We paid them 7.50 an hour, like 30 years ago. That booth helped put the company on the map. My stepson makes more than I ever did (nothing to do with woodworking) in a corporate position, and friend's son got a PhD in something like anthropology. Idk what the moral is.
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Dec 30, 2022 17:36
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Talking about all this planning and CAD… I’m over here and don’t even finish drawing a plan before dumping a couple hundred bucks on plywood and 2x4s for some shelving. This thread is always waaaaay more fine wood working that I think I can do. You lot do great woodworking and I do work with wood. It all worked out in the end for some basic stuff to keep her Christmas and seasonal stuff off the floor or stacked on each other in some game of “breakable on top” I didn’t even finish the math on that sheet since I was figuring out how much height I wanted left on top and I shrunk the riser spacers to 20” rather than 22” marked in my initial measurements. Edit: it made 24 feet of these, which was six interlocking frames with pressure treated feet and legs. 
Sockington fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Dec 30, 2022 |
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Dec 30, 2022 20:36
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Sockington posted:Talking about all this planning and CAD… I’m over here and don’t even finish drawing a plan before dumping a couple hundred bucks on plywood and 2x4s for some shelving. This thread is always waaaaay more fine wood working that I think I can do. You lot do great woodworking and I do work with wood. That is some nice shelving. I for one appreciate posts about "It's fine" woodworking.
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Dec 30, 2022 20:55
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This thing has a wooden handle so I'm going to call it a wood working project. I have a kitty friend and years ago I bought her a toy. She had just been picked up from a parking garage and was still kinda wild and whatnot. I'm a sucker for hard luck cases so I wanted to play with her. I went to Canadian Tire and bought her a toy. Just something cheap. A plastic stick, with some string and on the end of it was a little bell and some feathers. I brought it home and started whipping and tossing it (the feathers) around and she went after it, running and jumping and pouncing on it. The string had broke a few times and the bell got lost a few years ago, and just a week or so ago, the stick finally broke so I told my friend I'd fix it because even like 10-12+ years later her kitty still loves that toy. I got a wooden dowel, 7/16" diameter, and cut it roughly in half, it was too long otherwise. I "sanded" down the ends. Actually I used a bench grinding wheel because I was too lazy to get out my belt sander. I think I like the darkening effect of the grinder wheel anyway and it kinda like sealed the end of the wood anyway. Next thing I dd was drill two holes in the dowel, 1/8" diameter one close to each end, and then a third hole about a hand width away from one of the end holes. I got some string, fed it through the end hole, knotted it a couple times and pulled it about halfway through the dowel so its sort of buried inside the wood. I secured it with a bit of glue and then smeared a bunch more along the handle end and wrapped the string tightly around it. Its not perfect but it looks decent. The string I used was #18 mason line I think. Whatever hardware store brand there happened to be when I bought it. When I got to the second hole that was about a hand width away, I wrapped it right up to the hole and then kinda eye balled where I should put my next knot. I cut the string, tied the knot, fed it through the hole and yanked until the knot was stuck in the hole and then secured it with more glue. The handle was done and the string doesn't really contrast with the dowel and I'm a horrible photographer but you can probably get the idea:  Next up was the string that holds the toy on there. I cut a piece about 2 feet long fed it through the other hole, knotted it, wrapped the other end around one side, stuck it through the same hole, wrapped around the other side stuck it through the hole again and then tightened it all up and glued it. Once again, horrible pictures, horrible photographer yadda yadda yadda.   Next up I tried to make it look a bit fancy so I "whipped" the end around the string. I've only ever done this with rope before, never with a dowel so it didn't turn out quite as good as I'd hoped. For those that don't know what whipping is : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whipping_knot Pulled the ends under, cut them and secured with a bit more glue.   The bell was lost a long time ago so I went to a dollar store and for 2 bucks I got a fuckin 38 pack of various sizes of bell. I now have about a 450 year supply of these things. I didn't take any pictures of the feathers and the little plastic thing they were stuck in, but I pretty much pulled them out, dug out the glue and when the time came, I cut the string a bit shorter than it was, threaded the bell on to it, the little plastic piece, tied a knot and then put some glue inside it and shoved the feathers back in. The finished product:  Finished it last night, and brought it over to my friend's house today. The kitty wasn't feeling very well I don't think (she's an old girl these days) but when I brought it out she almost immediately started following it around for a bit. Then I put it down and she went back to sleeping. I'm sure she'll come around when she's feeling better. Obligatory pics of the world's greatest kitty:  
wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Dec 31, 2022 |
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Dec 31, 2022 19:39
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So I’m nearing the end of my remodeling project, which is to convert my screened-in breezeway into a fully interior mudroom, and when it’s done I’ll be starting the true woodworking project of making a bench for putting on/taking off shoes. I want to do it primarily with hand tools and I realize that the only plane I have is an incredibly lovely $15 block plane from Home Depot. From what I’ve seen I gather I will want a good low-angle block plane, a smoothing plane (#3 or #4), a #5 jack plane, and possibly a #7 jointer plane (although I already have a Grizzly parallelogram jointer that works well so maybe I can skip that one). People are always saying to go to flea markets and look on Craigslist for good deals on well made vintage planes, but that’s not really an option for me time-wise. I’ll need to go to a woodworking shop and/or order something online, and I’m curious if anyone here has had experience with: a) buying refurbished vintage planes off eBay. Is that a reliable way to go? I see a lot of nice looking ones, such as this Stanley plane b) buying new planes from legitimate companies — so not Harbor Freight quality but maybe Stanley and up Is there a clear “best” option for these? Apollodorus fucked around with this message at 14:53 on Jan 2, 2023 |
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Jan 2, 2023 14:32
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Apollodorus posted:
You absolutely don't need those planes to make a mudroom bench. A single #4 or #5 is fine. That said don't buy any Stanley plane made since the 60s. If you intend to continue woodworking either get a non-refurbished old one and learn to make it work, or get a good modern one and cry once. Veritas and such are about the price of three equivalent mid-range ones and are way more than triple as good. Edit: also you can get a lot of even older wooden planes for that money and if they're not cracked and missing parts they work as well as they did new. They won't be called that but the #5 equivalent jack planes are ubiquitous. SimonSays fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Jan 2, 2023 |
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Jan 2, 2023 14:41
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Apollodorus posted:So I’m nearing the end of my remodeling project, which is to convert my screened-in breezeway into a fully interior mudroom, and when it’s done I’ll be starting the true woodworking project of making a bench for putting on/taking off shoes. I want to do it primarily with hand tools and I realize that the only plane I have is an incredibly lovely $15 block plane from Home Depot. From what I’ve seen I gather I will want a good low-angle block plane, a smoothing plane (#3 or #4), a #5 jack plane, and possibly a #7 jointer plane (although I already have a Grizzly parallelogram jointer that works well so maybe I can skip that one). Just start with a jack plane. If you're willing to pay $200 for an eBay Stanley, you might just go ahead and get a Veritas low angle jack which will fill a lot of your needs.
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Jan 2, 2023 14:44
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Stultus Maximus posted:Just start with a jack plane. If you're willing to pay $200 for an eBay Stanley, you might just go ahead and get a Veritas low angle jack which will fill a lot of your needs. +1. To my knowledge, the only current, high quality, mass production plane makers are Veritas ($$$) and Lie-Nielsen ($$$$$). I've heard good things about Wood River ($$) but I've not used one myself. Do not buy a modern Stanley. I personally don't like the low angle planes, I vibe more with the bevel-down, traditional angle frogs. But a lot of people like them, and that one plane will be enough to build your first bench. If you like the experience, you can dive into a more capable set of planes later. (Small rant: modern plane makers keep putting the depth adjustment knobs in really stupid places. It needs to be right at your fingertips while you're holding the tote. I have no idea why they don't just leave it there. IMO don't buy a plane if the adjustment knob is anywhere other than right at your fingertips.) All that said, I think people get overly intimidated by buying vintage planes. I see a dozen perfectly usable planes sold on eBay for $50-100 including shipping in just the past week. If you want to go this route, be patient and check daily for a clean-looking one to come up, bid once at the top of your price range, and forget about it. Skip anything with any broken or repaired parts, including the horn on the tote. There's a million of these, there is no need to compromise and buy a faulty one. You will lose many auctions, but in a week or two you will win at a decent price. Once you receive it, just break it down to parts (this is easy), wipe everything down with an oily rag, sharpen the blade (learning to sharpen is not optional no matter what you buy), and reassemble it. Boom, excellent vintage hand plane for $50-100. People go bonkers over flattening the sole and regrinding the blade and whatever, but I've bought a half-dozen vintage planes with this method and never bothered to do any of that. Maybe I'm lucky, or just too stupid to notice a bad sole. Either way, I love these old planes and I make good furniture with them. Or just buy the Veritas. It's good, too.
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Jan 2, 2023 16:05
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A basic sole flattening isn't too hard. All you need is something decently flat, I've used some glass shelf or chunk of MDF, sand paper, and some time. As long as you have good contact around the mouth, the toe, and the edge, you're fine. This is woodworking, not making machinists straightedges, so micron precision is in no way necessary. Otherwise, seconding everything ColdPie said.
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Jan 2, 2023 16:31
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I’ve used a Wood River 4 1/2 and medium shoulder planes and they’re just fine, especially for the price. I seem to remember paying 1/2-2/3 the price of the equivalent Lie Nielsen, but checking prices just now it looks like Wood River has gone up quite a bit, so maybe just go for the high end
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Jan 2, 2023 17:18
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Big enjoyer of the veritas low angle jack here
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Jan 2, 2023 17:26
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So much blood, so much glue. Gluing up a case for workbench drawers, realize I had a panel backwards. Cue madly trying to pry everything apart as the glue sets, bust my knuckle on an edge. It's not art unless you put some of yourself into it, right?
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Jan 2, 2023 20:35
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I if wanted to rip a piece of butcher block countertop, paying some with big rear end cabinet saw is probably is best solution? I assume smaller cheaper saws are going to be a pita to cut 1 1/2” butcher block?
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Jan 2, 2023 21:26
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Calidus posted:I if wanted to rip a piece of butcher block countertop, paying some with big rear end cabinet saw is probably is best solution? I assume smaller cheaper saws are going to be a pita to cut 1 1/2” butcher block? Unless it's some super dense hard maple or something, I think most table saws could handle it. Using a proper rip blade will make a world of difference. A circular saw could probably handle it but not as neatly.
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Jan 2, 2023 21:29
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Calidus posted:I if wanted to rip a piece of butcher block countertop, paying some with big rear end cabinet saw is probably is best solution? I assume smaller cheaper saws are going to be a pita to cut 1 1/2” butcher block? A friend of mine wanted me to do this and I used a worm drive Skilsaw. Way easier than giving myself a hernia trying to get a massive butcher block countertop up onto a tablesaw. I went over the cut edge with a smoothing plane to get rid of a few burn marks and uneven spots and it came out great.
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Jan 2, 2023 21:35
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wesleywillis posted:This thing has a wooden handle so I'm going to call it a wood working project. TY for the cool little project! I love that kitty and would die for her without hesitation. Apollodorus posted:So I’m nearing the end of my remodeling project, which is to convert my screened-in breezeway into a fully interior mudroom, and when it’s done I’ll be starting the true woodworking project of making a bench for putting on/taking off shoes. I'm gonna back up even more and suggest that first you should design your bench, and then decide if you actually need any planes. If you buy surfaced wood you may not need to do any planing at all. If the idea of this project is to learn how to hand plane, of course that's totally fine, but I'm not a big proponent of just acquiring a pile of tools you don't need yet. I'll second what others have said - if you're working from unsurfaced roughsawn wood, or if you're doing some cuts that will expose a lot of roughsawn where your design calls for smoothed, start with just a jack plane (so named as a "jack of all trades" because of the versitility of this plane) and see how that goes. Using your first plane and getting familiar with it will inform your future plane purchases. But you could also just sand surfaces smooth, or buy already smooth wood and plan your cuts accordingly, or both. Do you have a workbench where you can secure your workpiece for planing?
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Jan 2, 2023 21:45
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Can I apply polyurethane with a roller brush, or is it going to look weird once dried? Water-based stuff, if it matters.
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Jan 3, 2023 02:41
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C-Euro posted:Can I apply polyurethane with a roller brush, or is it going to look weird once dried? Water-based stuff, if it matters. I’ve never heard of such a thing. For a large area like a floor or wall I use a pad applicator.
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Jan 3, 2023 02:44
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C-Euro posted:Can I apply polyurethane with a roller brush, or is it going to look weird once dried? Water-based stuff, if it matters. Can't imagine it'd matter, it's not like you're normally trying for brushstrokes with poly. No way you're gonna be able to reuse that roller tho
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Jan 3, 2023 02:54
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C-Euro posted:Can I apply polyurethane with a roller brush, or is it going to look weird once dried? Water-based stuff, if it matters. You might need to thin it. Water based is going to rely on ambient temperature, then maybe humidity.
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Jan 3, 2023 03:07
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C-Euro posted:Can I apply polyurethane with a roller brush, or is it going to look weird once dried? Water-based stuff, if it matters.
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Jan 3, 2023 03:13
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its $8 for a pad and block at home depot, with the same screw fitting as a roller. Just get the block. I polyied a ceiling last fall, and a block on a broom handle cut short worked perfectly, and the pad was much easier to clean. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Applicator-and-More-10-in-Lambskin-Pad-with-Block-11001/100585512
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Jan 3, 2023 03:42
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Thanks for the insights on planes. I found a couple of well preserved vintage Stanleys on eBay for around $50 each and I’ve ordered some honing tools—I’ll let you all know how my adventures in planing turn out! (also yes I do have a workbench that can hold workpieces, so although I’m sure I’ll get/make a better one eventually this one will suit for now)
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Jan 3, 2023 16:45
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I am putting a counter top in my laundry room. Couple follow up questions on wood counter tops: - Alternatives to butcher block? Nice Plywood + board to hide the edge? A glue up seems like more work than I probably want to do. - Is there a magic secret to sink cut outs other than practicing with my jigsaw on something cheap and buy a new blade. - If I am ripping butcher block with a circular saw, is best way do that put foam board under it then just cut on my garage floor so I don’t have worry about supporting it?
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Jan 3, 2023 18:04
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Yeah you can use basically anything for a laundry room counter, you're not likely putting hot pots on it or chopping stuff. Cabinet grade ply with a strip of trim is a perfectly fine option, assuming you want to paint it. You could also just get normal inexpensive countertop stuff - decorative laminate, bamboo is an option, etc. Assuming your laundry room isn't a typically guest-visited, high-visibility "designed" space, you may not care too much about spending money for a really attractive countertop? If it's a small area and you just want to drop a hunk of affordable butcher block there though I think that's a fine choice too. e. If you want to iron on the surface, don't go with laminate. I'm not sure about butcher block ether in terms of heat. Tile or quartz can handle the heat of an iron. Sink cutout - depends if you're going with undermount, flush mount, or drop-in. With a drop-in sink, the sink covers the edge of the cutout so if your cut deviates slightly that will be covered up. If I were doing my own cutout that's the option I'd go for, especially if it wasn't a kitchen sink where sweeping stuff into the sink off the counter is a consideration. With an undermount, the cut edge is exposed, you'll want to sneak up to the actual cut. Do a rough cut well inboard using whatever tool, and then trim to your exact cutline. I've never had good luck with a jigsaw but I don't know what other tool you could use to make the inside corner cuts if you're not cutting all the way to the edge. Use a good jigsaw and using foam under your surface helps to guide the blade. With flush mount, the sink butts the cut edge, so you still want an accurate cut but you don't have to consider the quality of the cut surface so much, so if there's a bit of sawmark that's OK. Ripping any large piece of wood with a circular saw, yes, on foam on the floor is a fine option. Use a guide clamped to the surface. Use the correct blade for the type of cut. Do a test cut or two on scrap first so you're 100% sure of how you're holding and moving the saw, if you're not already very familiar with how it cuts with that blade. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Jan 3, 2023 |
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Jan 3, 2023 18:17
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Calidus posted:I am putting a counter top in my laundry room. Couple follow up questions on wood counter tops: Do you have a habitat ReStore near by? They often have very nice used counters near me for decent prices. A couple times I've even bought ones with the right sink cutout, even.
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Jan 3, 2023 18:26
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:The big risk is bubbles with poly. Even tiny bubbles from shaking the can or brushing too vigorously can turn into big bubbles that look really bad as it dries. I don't know the answer for sure though-do a test board? If you're wild and reckless and like to live dangerously and don't want to do a test board (you should always do a test board), if it's a disaster on the first coat you should be able to aggressively sand the bubbles down and switch to a normal brush. My gut is that a very short nap or foam roller will be better than a roller with a longer nap? I've heard this in a lot of places and it's definitely an issue with oil based, but I've never had it with water based poly (either General Finishes or Varathane). I shake the can like an animal and then put it on with a foam brush and I've never seen a bubble. Maybe people are putting on much thicker coats than I am, but a foam roller would probably work fine? Wallet fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Jan 3, 2023 |
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Jan 3, 2023 18:33
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With the drop in sink cutout you can also put green tape along the line and it helps to prevent shattering a big flake off of the surface. Use the finest tooth blade you can find and take it slow and you'll be fine. It's stressful but doable
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Jan 3, 2023 18:55
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Wallet posted:I've heard this in a lot of places and it's definitely an issue with oil based, but I've never had it with water based poly (either General Finishes or Varathane). I shake the can like an animal and then put it on with a foam brush and I've never seen a bubble. Maybe people are putting on much thicker coats than I am, but a foam roller would probably work fine? It may well be only a problem with oil based. I’ve never really used water based poly.
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Jan 3, 2023 19:03
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I wanted to make a cut back deep version of those drill holders I see everywhere. I’m lazy about bits so I wanted to leave my big red robby #2 on the impact. I ended up tossing up a spare cut of plywood and hanging a bunch of other poo poo in the process of bodging the holder together from scraps and spares. Corner clamps are so useful they had to get a spot up there too. Just quick and dirty jigsaw cuts to reduce bulk. It’s an awkward shelf spot for normal things on top, so having a deep upper shelf wasn’t gaining much for me.  I’ll be moving the wiring and outlets in the future as they’re just tagged into my radio outlet to stay functional. The drills are about eye level so I can still work right next to them, use them, and stick them back up there so I don’t knock them off the bench when I forget them behind something. A little 2’x4’ offcut of ply and some scraps made things a ton more functional and convenient for me.
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Jan 3, 2023 19:57
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 20:45 |
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Wallet posted:I've heard this in a lot of places and it's definitely an issue with oil based, but I've never had it with water based poly (either General Finishes or Varathane). I shake the can like an animal and then put it on with a foam brush and I've never seen a bubble. Maybe people are putting on much thicker coats than I am, but a foam roller would probably work fine? Yeah man I was surprised to hear the quick hate for the foam roller too. I’ve foam-rolled not even nice water-based poly (polycrylic) and it turned out just fine. 
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Jan 4, 2023 00:02
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