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arsenicCatnip
Dec 23, 2022

:33< i KNOW, i was speaking metafurrikitty :33



agreed! I normally dont like nurgle nerds (the gross out angle does nothing for me) but I absolutely love that shade of green.

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jadebullet
Mar 25, 2011


MY LIFE FOR YOU!
X-posting from the 40k thread

After quite a bit of time of no hobby progress I decided to dedicate more time to painting in 2023.

So to start off with, I finally painted up my Wolverine inspired Sentinel.


Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

arsenicCatnip posted:

agreed! I normally dont like nurgle nerds (the gross out angle does nothing for me) but I absolutely love that shade of green.

Yeah I really wanted to go more for the toxic/radioactive look than the diseased look.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Bucnasti posted:

Not a year in review because time is meaningless these days and I can't remember what I did this year, but I just finished up a bunch of Nurgly bois that I'm pretty happy with.
















I swear these are three different crawlers I magnetized all the weapons even thought there's probably no point.





I think your big floaty goober and your infantry look great - the green is both pleasingly saturated and unique for Nurgle paint jobs. Something about the tanks is bugging me, though.

Admittedly, part of it is I feel like the sculpt needs to just be grosser out of the box, but putting that aside, they're all very clean for tanks. If you felt like going back and picking at them, I would consider some mud and dust. There's specialty acrylic products, but I've had good luck making sticky crud on my tanks by making a paste out of earth pigments and water. A quick airbrush dust layer can go radially up the dozer blades, and all along the lower hulls. You could do a thin, faint warm grey if you wanted to be subtle, or if you wanted it to be technicolor you could do a good clay red.

Not a deal breaker by any means, I just like a good groady tank.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





If you are willing to shell out ridiculous money for your hobby pleasure I highly, highly recommend a glowforge. I just got one and it is fun as can be! They are between 4-7k though, so, uh, not for everyone. I am in the process of making a really nice army board/platter thing for my guys. Will post pictures when I finish it!

Vagabong
Mar 2, 2019
Thanks for the lamp advice, I'll try to get some well lit minatures posted as recompense.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.
Just finished up one of the guns for my knight. What do you guys think?







Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

I realized, looking at your pics, that I love the feeling of applying shade to coils

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

My Spirit Otter posted:

Just finished up one of the guns for my knight. What do you guys think?









Love the colours, but the whole thing feels very flat. Maybe introduce some shadows and highlights, espeically on things like the coils and the large open panels.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Radiation Cow posted:

Love the colours, but the whole thing feels very flat. Maybe introduce some shadows and highlights, espeically on things like the coils and the large open panels.

Seconding this. It's a great, great base coat, but it needs more.

Star Man
Jun 1, 2008

There's a star maaaaaan
Over the rainbow
--exhales loudly--

I've put paint to plastic for the first time since early 2021. In my umpteenth false start, I bought the Indomitus box set in December 2020 and finally started working on it, just in time for tenth edition to be on the horizon. Unlike my mistake with the Dark Imperium set where I let someone tell me what to do based on what was good in December 2017, I'm painting my marines as Salamanders like I should have in the first place.

I've also conceded and embraced Citadel paints. It's available everywhere, every guide I find refers to the color names in the paint system, and I'm just over trying to iron out equivalents with Vallejo. I'm also going ham and want to shoot for the 'Eavy Metal style, because I'm both a fuckin dumbass and a raving lunatic.

I'm taking sub-assembly painting way too far here, but work is work. The big black spot is from overspray while priming my models with Vallejo black primer. I've been applying everything else by brush so far. I'm just the world's slowest goddamn painter. Spent three hours last night just finishing up the base coat with Waaagh! Flesh and applying some of the Leadbelcher and Abaddon Black.

GuardianOfAsgaard
Feb 1, 2012

Their steel shines red
With enemy blood
It sings of victory
Granted by the Gods
Tiny toys are fun but painstaking:





GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I struggle with doing detail for eyes, so I can't see myself ever doing penny minis, it seems stressful

Indolent Bastard
Oct 26, 2007

I WON THIS AMAZING AVATAR! I'M A WINNER! WOOOOO!

GuardianOfAsgaard posted:

Tiny toys are fun but painstaking:


They just look so happy to be there.

Sherbert Hoover
Dec 12, 2019

Working hard, thank you!
never do eyes

they never look good

NinjaDebugger
Apr 22, 2008


Sherbert Hoover posted:

never do eyes

they never look good

Went to a class at warfaire weekend in november, Lyn Stahl gave us a cheat code for eyes. All the way to one side is always valid, your eyes will always look good that way.

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
I feel the pain of being a slow painter. I'm working on 9 Tyranid Warriors and it's been days of painting. I'm getting about one color done across all 9 of them in about 6 hours of bench time. I think they look really good though, and I'll use them for years once they're done so slow and steady it is.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

bird food bathtub posted:

I feel the pain of being a slow painter. I'm working on 9 Tyranid Warriors and it's been days of painting. I'm getting about one color done across all 9 of them in about 6 hours of bench time. I think they look really good though, and I'll use them for years once they're done so slow and steady it is.

I did 13 chaos warriors and it generally takes me 25-45 minutes for each major color group, so you're not much slower or faster than me...

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.
Im pausing painting my units for the moment because i ordered a few shades of blue to fill some gaps in my palette so im probably gonna finish out some terrain soon, i have a good idea what im gonna do with my octarius but i really have to think long and hard on what i want to do with my gallowdark terrain, the base color that caught my eye the most is the one done by GW themselves, i really like the coffee blue look theyve got going on so im gonna try to find out what it specifically is, it doesnt seem to be black-bronze-gunmetal:-

https://www.warhammer-community.com/2022/08/04/kill-team-into-the-dark-whats-in-the-box/

Al-Saqr fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Jan 3, 2023

arsenicCatnip
Dec 23, 2022

:33< i KNOW, i was speaking metafurrikitty :33



Started on that steel confessors kill team, the primer's drying rn. I got a set of DnD army painter paints for christmas that include the perfect metal color so I'm excited to see how it looks.

Anyone got any tips for glow effects btw? One of them has a plasma rifle and I wanna make it look good

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Al-Saqr posted:

Im pausing painting my units for the moment because i ordered a few shades of blue to fill some gaps in my palette

Learn to mix. Yes, it will be a pain to start, but your painting will improve a billion-fold, and you don't have to order shades of anything, so you'll save a ton of $$$.

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.

Lumpy posted:

Learn to mix. Yes, it will be a pain to start, but your painting will improve a billion-fold, and you don't have to order shades of anything, so you'll save a ton of $$$.

I understand its just that the particular shade of blue i was looking for wouldve been impossible for me to mix, i currently have Dark, prussian, flat and Azure-baby blue and neon, sadly the blue that i needed the most to echieve both of my krieg accents and navy main colors is celestian and telcus-asurman no matter how many times i mixed what i had with white it always ended up as a really garish baby blue.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Al-Saqr posted:

I understand its just that the particular shade of blue i was looking for wouldve been impossible for me to mix, i currently have Dark, prussian, flat and Azure-baby blue and neon, sadly the blue that i needed the most to echieve both of my krieg accents and navy main colors is celestian and telcus-asurman no matter how many times i mixed what i had with white it always ended up as a really garish baby blue.

All of the hobby paints are multi pigment paints and trend towards brown when mixed. You want single pigment paints.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
mix in a little yellow or green

arsenicCatnip
Dec 23, 2022

:33< i KNOW, i was speaking metafurrikitty :33



Steel Confessors are going well. pls forgive messy workbench

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Hey Folks, just learned some interesting things about GW bases. Not all the bases are the diameter that they call them. For example, while a 100mm base for a field ordinance battery is actually more like 98.5mm and smaller than 100mm something like a heavy weapons team base that is stated to be 60mm is 60mm at the top of the base and closer to 64mm at the bottom. If you are using a cnc machine to cut out army organizers this tip might come in helpful!

Space Friend
Dec 23, 2011

Started on a new harlequin troupe for the new year! What started as a color test turned into an all day fixation. I'm theming this group after Twelfth Night, so sandy tones and rustic vibes from antiquity were my goals here. Also just dove in head first to free handing the diamonds and the pearl soul stone and I think it worked out!

veni veni veni
Jun 5, 2005


I'm working on a new sculpt and trying to employ some techniques I read about itt like dry brushing and paint washes. Just hoping for any critiques or suggestions as I feel like this is coming along nicely but still like, lacking (and a few very obviously sloppy areas I'm going to fix) I'd like to get the main paint job done on the body before making the arms/feet/accessories. I feel like the dry brushing worked out really well for the head. Feel like I may have gone overboard on the body fur and done too much of it. Also really like the result of using a wash on his vest. Gave it a real nice leathery look. But I tried some/highlighting and dry brushing on it to make it pop more and it was just not working out and made it look worse. Kind of don't really know what to do to make the vest look a little more dynamic and less muddy. So yeah, any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.
The leather looks amazing, what did you do to get the weathered look?

veni veni veni
Jun 5, 2005


Thanks! for the texture I pressed some clay into a fake leather sketch pad cover I had, baked it and used it as a mold to press sheets of clay into. For the paint I just did a tan base coat and then washed it with a thinned down mix of red and brown.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Space Friend posted:

Started on a new harlequin troupe for the new year! What started as a color test turned into an all day fixation. I'm theming this group after Twelfth Night, so sandy tones and rustic vibes from antiquity were my goals here. Also just dove in head first to free handing the diamonds and the pearl soul stone and I think it worked out!



The freehand stuff needs cleanup you probably saw as soon as you looked at the post, but that's 98% of the way to a really amazingly well-done Harlequin.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

GreenBuckanneer posted:

All of the hobby paints are multi pigment paints and trend towards brown when mixed. You want single pigment paints.

For mixing, I've found a magenta, cyan, yellow, white, black and burnt umber adjacent brown can make most things that aren't specialized or flourescents.

Space Friend
Dec 23, 2011

mllaneza posted:

The freehand stuff needs cleanup you probably saw as soon as you looked at the post, but that's 98% of the way to a really amazingly well-done Harlequin.

Thanks! I was fortunate enough to nail the fine lines on her leg and collar in the first try, but grew overconfident on her arm. (God that wrist is searing itself into my consciousness and won't leave until it's fixed).

My favorite happy accident of the whole process was with the armaments and face mask. I had based them with a mid reddish brown in an attempt to stencil my off-white over top to create an ancient marble look. Either I missed a step or a stretched out make up wipe was not fit for purpose and it failed miserably. But after tweezing away random fibers, I was left with an incredibly smooth coat of white with an undertone that matched well with my pinks.

The great part about these models is that their sculpts are varied enough to challenge me to adapt this scheme in more dynamic ways.

I have one final self-inflicted challenge: Paint an opal for the player I'll be dubbing Orsino as a reference to Twelfth Night II.iv. But I'll dive into that rabbit hole when I get to it.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

veni veni veni posted:

I'm working on a new sculpt and trying to employ some techniques I read about itt like dry brushing and paint washes. Just hoping for any critiques or suggestions as I feel like this is coming along nicely but still like, lacking (and a few very obviously sloppy areas I'm going to fix) I'd like to get the main paint job done on the body before making the arms/feet/accessories. I feel like the dry brushing worked out really well for the head. Feel like I may have gone overboard on the body fur and done too much of it. Also really like the result of using a wash on his vest. Gave it a real nice leathery look. But I tried some/highlighting and dry brushing on it to make it pop more and it was just not working out and made it look worse. Kind of don't really know what to do to make the vest look a little more dynamic and less muddy. So yeah, any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.



It looks great, but you are looking for suggestions so....

For the vest, I'm maybe considering taking a real light tan (maybe even up to an ivory) and painting in some little scratches where the leather would be most worn (so edges, seams, folds, raised areas that would rub against things, areas like the elbow (which I appreciate a vest doesnt have) and collar). Dont go nuts, just build up little scratches until you think it reads as worn leather. I'd maybe consider also having the cross belt a different shade of brown (lighter or darker, your choice). The belt and the vest are both leather, so its totally realistic that they are the same colour. If it was boots and vest it would be fine. But on a figure where the two are crossing over each other that can lead to them kind of visually just melding together into a mass of brown, so I tend to go "Okay, so the vest is dark leather and the belt is this lighter leather (or gently caress it, its black leather now)" just to give some visual distinction when two things cross over like that.

The drybrushing looks good, you have maybe gone slightly too hard on the lower half of your figure here, but its not catastrophic. If you think it needs fixed you can glaze in a little of your mid-tone grey here and there, but I'd hold off until you see the whole thing as one more or less finished piece, then see if it feels unbalanced, it might be fine once you see it all together.

veni veni veni
Jun 5, 2005


I like all of those ideas. Gonna do them tonight. thanks!

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
I have but one thing to add to SiKboy's excellent post, and that's if you want that sweet porous texture on leather, stipple instead of drybrush. Get you a nice lovely old brush that's splayed like crazy and just dab on your layers, and it'll give you a great grain, especially when you're working with a bigger piece like your rodent person.



I did the leather on this one exactly like I did any other surface, I just dabbed instead of dragging the brush. Easy as can be, and if a huge dope like me can pull it off, anyone can.

SkyeAuroline
Nov 12, 2020

Crossing over from the 30K thread.

quote:

Five Seekers for my IW done. Sergeant still needs a name, haven't figured one out yet. Probably all the seekers I ever build unless these guys have an incredible showing, but I've heard good things about even "just" five guys.



I couldn't figure out what the Seekers would have for a shoulder symbol, so I went for a simple crosshair design:



Group shot:


The mistakes are visible and commonplace, and that's okay. I'm just glad to have five guys done and sealed. On to the next batch (of tacticals, who I'll have to make more bases for).

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I'm already at 3+ colors on 18 models as of yesterday

:stoked:

Who knows if I can keep up the momentum throughout the year

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Man, VMC Steel is so good for airbrushing but so watery out the bottle (I'm talking JUST A DROP of it) that I honestly feel like I have more control of it 24 hours later after some of it has dried on the palette when I brush it on.

How are you guys using it?

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Bored Online
May 25, 2009

We don't need Rome telling us what to do.

AndyElusive posted:

Man, VMC Steel is so good for airbrushing but so watery out the bottle (I'm talking JUST A DROP of it) that I honestly feel like I have more control of it 24 hours later after some of it has dried on the palette when I brush it on.

How are you guys using it?

I use it exclusively from an airbrush.

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