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builds character posted:Why are they still touching your current car? Because I was giving them a chance to make it work/make it right from the original issue and they are closed on weekends. If it genuinely needs this fuse box, and I'm giving them the benefit of the doubt that it does, I'm only a little annoyed that they didn't just tell us in the first place. I can forgive an error diagnosing an inconsistent electrical problem. But this... This is something else entirely Edit: checked with them and allegedly this isn't them replacing the harness this is them needing to perform extra labor because without the harness they have to make a thousand connections by hand Harold Fjord fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Jan 6, 2023 |
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Jan 6, 2023 19:14
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I'm trying to wire a Fortin Evo-One remote starter set into my girlfriend's mom's car, but unfortunately it requires me to connect into the lighting harness - and of course no premade harness is available. Does anyone know what connectors would be used for the steering column lighting controls in a 2012 RAV4? I know it's a 20-pin connector, and I have the codes off the moulding, but I haven't been able to find poo poo online for compatible connectors.
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Jan 7, 2023 01:48
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I think it's fine to DIY that as a 10-footer with the touchup kit unless you're super anal, in which case get someone else to do it. Yeah, and it already has some touch-up on a wing mirror. Its more annoying because Ive never gotten a scrape before and did this like two weeks after getting the car.
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Jan 7, 2023 02:01
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I keep reading that head gaskets in the D17A2 engine are a common problem, but usually in the context of overheating. Is it a problem to look out for if the car isn't overheating? I understand head gasket failures are often both caused by and lead to overheating, but I'm wondering if it's something inherent to the gasket design or if it's only really a consequence of overheating (in which case I've never really heard of an engine that isn't susceptible to head gasket failure).
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Jan 7, 2023 03:50
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My 2000 Toyota Sienna fwd minivan has developed play in the steering, a dead zone of maybe +/- 30 degrees of the steering wheel. Im on a big trip, about to start heading home. I think this happened a week ago while off-roading. When I got back on pavement, I noticed something was weird about the steering, and that the steering wheel was off center when driving straight. The van took some hard hits driving over Palen Pass, so I figured the alignment had gotten bashed out of whack. The next day I got an alignment in Indio. I told the tech about the off-roading, but did not describe the steering play as such. I did mention the possibility of bent parts. He said my camber was wrong and did some things. Basically, I got an alignment. Oddly, he did not take the van for a test drive after. After the alignment, I drove down to Superstition Hills and spent four days rallying the van pretty hard in the sand. It was super fun and I only got stuck in the sand a couple times a day. This morning I headed back to pavement, dodged the border patrol checkpoint (lol its next to a huge OHV park), and got on the freeway. It became pretty clear that something was wrong with the steering, and through some testing, I came up with this steering play/dead-zone theory. For example, on a straight freeway, I want to change lanes to the left. First I turn the wheel slightly to the left to begin the lane change. Then as I cross into the left lane, I turn the wheel slightly right to straighten out. Thats where it happensI have to turn the wheel quite a bit further right than I should need to. Like an extra 1/8th turn of the wheel or a bit more, even. So whats going on, and will it kill on the way home? What parts should I inspect tomorrow morning before I head out? I am 420 miles from home and I really dont want to take it to another shop.
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Jan 7, 2023 03:51
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ryanrs posted:My 2000 Toyota Sienna fwd minivan has developed play in the steering, a dead zone of maybe +/- 30 degrees of the steering wheel. Im on a big trip, about to start heading home. Something is seriously wrong with your steering and you absolutely need to take it to a shop before you kill yourself or worse, someone else. This isn't a little thing, your steering could have a complete failure while you're driving. This isn't goon hyperbole, you have an opportunity here to stop an event from happening which could completely ruin your life. There's no point inspecting anything yourself because you don't have the ability to fix it anyways - you already know something is wrong from the symptoms so just let a shop figure it out. You could have bent the tie rods or something like that, who knows. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Jan 7, 2023 |
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Jan 7, 2023 03:55
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Ok, one vote for not even looking, noted.
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Jan 7, 2023 04:36
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Can you get at the input shaft to the rack? If so: * parking brake set, in park, key on enough to unlock the column but not engine running or accessory. * wiggle the input shaft back and forth and observe tierod movement. Do the tie rods move with little movement of the input shaft? Is it relatively tight and responsive? you're probably fine. Does the input shaft move a lot to move the tie rods? Is there a lot of freeplay? The rack is hosed. replace that sooner than later. Give the inner tie rods a good hearty shake. It'll sometimes show rack bushing wear if not also inner tie rod ball socket wear. Wear in either component is not good here.
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Jan 7, 2023 04:41
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The rack is known to be partly-hosed already. A previous off-roading started it leaking power steering fluid from some old seals. Amazingly, power steering stop leak basically fixed it, only needing the fluid topped off during oil changes, if that. When you say input shaft, you mean deep in the bowels of the dash, not just grabbing the steering wheel? Tomorrow I want to get both front wheels off the ground. Im not exactly sure how I will do this. I might just high-center myself on a big rock, ha ha. I only have the factory spare tire jack with me. I do have a lot of tools with me, and I have overhauled the front suspension on this van myself. Is there a rubber bushing somewhere in the steering system that might have gotten chewed up?
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Jan 7, 2023 04:52
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At the rack. The knuckle/last joint in that connects to the rack is your test point. This rules out failure of the various shafts and joints between the rack and the wheel. The racks are usually mounted on bushing of some kind but it shouldn't account for 30 deg of play. But still a good idea, check those too. If the rack was partly hosed before, it is probably more hosed now. The stop leak may have cost the pump. If its been run dry, might as well do that with the new rack. Would be pointless to buy a new rack then fill it full of swarf from an old pump that was propping up a dying rack.
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Jan 7, 2023 05:20
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At 30 degrees +1 for serious problem. Wheels up you can jiggle them by hand. On the ground you'll need prybars. Spare jack would be fine for a quick check if you stay on the outside and away from pinch points. Got stands in the back.
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Jan 7, 2023 15:58
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That should be towed to a mechanic. It should not be driven on public roads. It's that serious unless and until proven otherwise because there is every chance that you could lose all steering ability at any point.
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Jan 7, 2023 16:18
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ryanrs posted:When you say input shaft, you mean deep in the bowels of the dash, not just grabbing the steering wheel? To add to what CSB said, you should see the shaft probably passing through the firewall below the master cylinder, going straight to the steering rack. Usually at least one rag joint in it (at the rack), attaches to the rack with a pinch bolt. You want to grab the shaft and see how much slop there is. There should be zero (you'll feel when it's slop and when you're just wiggling the steering wheel).
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Jan 7, 2023 17:10
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Update on my moms Rav4 with 8k miles that threw a rod. Toyota honored it and gave her a brand new engine. She was only with a loaner for about 10 days.
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Jan 7, 2023 17:24
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I crammed my phone by the rack input shaft and videoed it while I went and turned the wheel side to side. The rack itself is sliding back and forth relative to the firewall, maybe 1/4? When I turn the steering wheel, I can see the driver side tire respond to every movement (car off, parked on sand, wheels on ground). Not saying its rigidly connected, but tiny shaking of the steering wheel makes matching tiny twitches in the tire. Ill go bang in the tie rods next. Also try to physically reach the rack input shaft (may not be possible with skid plates in place). Im slow starting this morning because I dont like doing car work outside when its under 45 F. Regarding repair shops, Im leaving that until Monday. Its already been to a shop once, and if it goes in again, I want a much better understanding of exactly what needs to be done. That gives me the whole weekend to ponder the problem. I might drive to the OHV staging camp a couple miles away to track down a real jack, etc.
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Jan 7, 2023 19:12
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opengl posted:2005 Pontiac Vibe, 1.8L 1ZZ-FE/4 speed auto, 112k mi. It was indeed the intake manifold gasket. Easy job, in and out in less than 30 min.
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Jan 7, 2023 19:24
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I took a video focused on the steering rack mounting point. The mounting flanges on the van body do not move, and the bolt does not move. However, the rack moves back and forth a little relative to the flanges, as if there used to be a rubber bushing there, that is now gone. The slow PS fluid leak probably helped it along, and my recent off-road abuse finally blasted out the last remaining bits of rubber. Thats my current theory. Now that I can see the exact point of relative movement, its clear that even a slight trembling of the steering wheel moves the rack a perceptible amount wrt the fixed mounting flange in the body.
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Jan 7, 2023 19:38
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Yeah there are usually rubber bushings/vibration dampener type dealies in there. If you can't see them, they've probably disintegrated E: you just had an alignment and the tech didn't mention that the tierods were hosed, it aligned properly, I'd have to guess that the bumps you were taking probably just caused the 20 year old bushings to finally disintegrate. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Jan 7, 2023 |
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Jan 7, 2023 19:50
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opengl posted:It was indeed the intake manifold gasket. Easy job, in and out in less than 30 min. Hell yeah. Glad it worked out. Did you forget to reconnect the rear throttle body hose the first time like I did and drive it around and think you were gonna have to take it all apart again? What a relief to pop the hood and realize it and just pop the hose back on and have it idle perfectly.
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Jan 7, 2023 20:02
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Not opengl, but I most definitely did not create a massive vacuum leak when I did the same job. Nope. No sir. I would never forget a hose.
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Jan 7, 2023 20:20
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Wonderllama posted:Hell yeah. Glad it worked out. I actually missed that hose when disconnecting everything, so it popped free when I pulled the manifold off. Since it was the last thing to come loose it was front of mind to reconnect that first, but I could easily see myself missing that one if not.
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Jan 7, 2023 20:27
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wesleywillis posted:Yeah there are usually rubber bushings/vibration dampener type dealies in there. If you can't see them, they've probably disintegrated And in this case, I do not think there is immediate danger of losing steering, as the rack is still positively located by the bolts, albeit with slip from the oversized hole. So I think its safe-ish to drive it home. Obviously this needs to be fixed fairly quickly, but I dont think its a right-this-minute emergency.
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Jan 7, 2023 20:29
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E: nevermind
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Jan 8, 2023 00:24
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GC8 WRX pull clutch slave, having problems bleeding it. Any suggestions other than a vacuum bleed kit? I'm out of ideas to get this blasted thing working more than bottom third of the pedal stroke. Edit : I'm having a brain fart trying to remember the best way to do this
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Jan 8, 2023 07:21
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ryanrs posted:And in this case, I do not think there is immediate danger of losing steering, as the rack is still positively located by the bolts, albeit with slip from the oversized hole. It is absolutely unsafe to drive like that, specifically because your steering input is giving you variable and unpredictable results. The rack mounts are designed around the idea that the only movement between the rack and the mount is the result of a very small amount of compression of the rack bushings. Without those bushings there you have the rack slamming against the mounts. Sometimes offroading ends with your rig getting towed home. This needs to be one of those times.
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Jan 8, 2023 17:55
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Driving on public roads with 30 degrees of steering slop is reckless, even if you think the rack won't fail completely. Your ability to control the vehicle is severely compromised.
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Jan 8, 2023 19:24
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I gotta say I find ryanrs tales of off-roading in his Toyota minivan highly entertaining. I have no idea why he continues to dump money into the thing instead of buying a more capable vehicle. Just buy a drat 4Runner or some flavor of Jeep already.
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Jan 8, 2023 20:12
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Possibly endlessly-discussed tire question, dunno. First time posting in AI. I've got a 2020 GLI which came with Hankook Ventus summer tires. They're fine, I don't really do any super-spirited driving or anything, but they did the job and were well-recommended. Right before I was about to put my winter tires on, this year, I somehow got a nail through the sidewall of one of them, and that was it. During the swap-over, the dealer said that they were all pretty worn, but they could salvage two of them. I have the money, right now, so I'm willing to buy all four, so long as they're the "right" kind. I'm looking for recommendations for summer tires, which have good traction in the rain, above average (for performance tires) noise and roadfeel, and very good dry weather stickiness. Tread wear isn't really an issue, to me. I've looked through Tirerack, but I'll be damned if I know what an actual 5/10 noise or a 7/10 dry weather traction actually feels like. I'm a 40+ year old dude with two kids, a wife, and a sports sedan which I like to have fun in when I'm driving solo. Hit me with your thoughts.
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Jan 8, 2023 20:13
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Pilot Sport 4S, budget option Firestone Indy 500.
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Jan 8, 2023 20:45
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General (Continental) Gmax RS is also very competitive with the Indy 500, and is symmetrical in case you have a mismatch of inside/outside wear. I'm on track to get about 45k miles on my rears after the fronts died early due to ball joint issues, and would buy them again for a summer street tire.
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Jan 8, 2023 21:10
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Ive always been a big fan of continental extreme contact tires. I use the DWS 06 but they have the extreme contact sport which is a summer only tire. The pilot sport 4s are probably the best option though.
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Jan 8, 2023 21:50
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skipdogg posted:I’ve always been a big fan of continental extreme contact tires. I use the DWS 06 but they have the extreme contact sport which is a summer only tire. I also love the extreme contact stuff.
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Jan 8, 2023 22:00
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I won't recommend you drive it home missing the rack bushings, but in my younger dumber days I definitely did worse. You need to verify that that's the only thing wrong for sure. If you hammered that to hell, it may not be the only point of failure, you may have a steering intermediate shaft ujoint 1mm from falling apart entirely or tie rod ends a hairs breadth from the ball coming out of the socket. Either one will very suddenly result in one or both wheels choosing their own path in life without any concern for your thoughts on the matter. Also remember that there are other parts involved that likely aren't designed for that degree of movement. Power steering hard lines that may be bolted down more securely than the rack at this point. Stuff like that. Things that can fatigue, then suddenly dump high pressure hydraulic fluid through a pinhole crack at a random direction that may or may not involve spraying atomized light weight oil directly at a catalytic converter that's totally inaccessible due to your skid plate, and very hard to put a fire out on as a result. I've seen vehicles burn to the ground from far less than this, and almost lost an XJ to a pinhole in a transmission cooler line, in fact. I'd look at it very very very carefully but probably end up at least getting it towed to the nearest parts store with the bushings in stock.
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Jan 9, 2023 00:45
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I'm already home. The drive back was uneventful. I'll make a more detailed vehicle damage post later in my van thread.
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Jan 9, 2023 01:14
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Jan 9, 2023 01:56
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Is there a proper way to clean up my bottle after doing a brake bleed? Would wiping it out be good enough?
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Jan 9, 2023 02:05
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net work error posted:Is there a proper way to clean up my bottle after doing a brake bleed? Would wiping it out be good enough? What bottle? Rinse with water and air dry. Brake fluid evaporates pretty fast.
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Jan 9, 2023 02:48
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opengl posted:Pilot Sport 4S, budget option Firestone Indy 500. +1 to both of these as great options. The PS4Ses are widely regarded as the best daily drivable summer tire (as opposed to the ones that are more or less street legal race tires) and the Indy 500s deliver most of the same performance for a good chunk less money. I ran the Indy 500s as my summer tire from 2018 to 2021 and switched to the PS4Ses for 2022 and while I feel like the upgrade was worth it to me I can certainly see why the Indy 500s are so popular, if you're not regularly pushing it the differences are hard to tell.
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Jan 9, 2023 15:29
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Conti Extreme Sports are great too as mentioned above. Had several sets on my mustang GTs before swapping to PS4S tires. Theyre decently priced if you want to run two sets of wheels to swap out for winters.
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Jan 9, 2023 22:32
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builds character posted:Why are they still touching your current car? This is a very good question. OP Have you considered bricking their storefront window?
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Jan 10, 2023 01:56
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