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Mr E
Sep 18, 2007

ethanol posted:

i love my am pro ii. its one of my favorite stratocaster necks ive ever tried... with the satin finish (feels softer than my mim's satin neck), and the deep C. great pickups for mixing with.

I played one at the local guitar center and loved how it played so much I knew I had to have one, and the "miami blue" shade they used is one of my favorite colors so it worked out great. Kind of crazy the discount you can get by buying a "used" guitar even if it's overstock that wasn't on display and still has the protective stickers on it. Can't wait to get it.

havelock posted:

Had an almost disaster today. Somehow my strap screw was almost completely unscrewed on my baritone. I think the strap locks I have don't rotate freely and must have slowly worked it out over time. Make sure to check your straps and stuff.

Speaking of strap screws, I was replacing the humidity packs I use for my guitar cases today and noticed the strap screw was stripped on one of them, it's not falling out but is turning freely so I don't feel too good about using it. I was probably gonna get some strap locks for it anyway since I have them on my others; can I just fix this with some toothpicks and glue to get something for the screw to grab or is there a better way?

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Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

The dumpster gods gave me a win tonight.


The Lester has a broken headstock(of course)
Easily glueable only major ding is between the pickups. Maybe I should route it for a third like some customs have.

The 12 string looks fine nothing appears to be broken, they gutted the electronics but on something like this they are crap tier anyways.
I'll have to slap some strings on it see how the neck behaves.

Frozen Pizza Party
Dec 13, 2005

Thumposaurus posted:

The dumpster gods gave me a win tonight.


The Lester has a broken headstock(of course)
Easily glueable only major ding is between the pickups. Maybe I should route it for a third like some customs have.

The 12 string looks fine nothing appears to be broken, they gutted the electronics but on something like this they are crap tier anyways.
I'll have to slap some strings on it see how the neck behaves.

Are you diving at guitar center or something?

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Yeah been doing it for a few years now.

Nitrousoxide
May 30, 2011

do not buy a oneplus phone



Moving on to trying to actually play some chords to a beat now.
1: Trying to hold a chord as late as you can while still making the change for the next chord is HARD. And it makes it next to impossible for me to strum the correct strings since I'm busy staring at the fret board. I guess I need to practice a ton on making chord changes without looking. I imagine I'll get the hang of this just like I did with touch typing with practice.
2: Strumming while changing chords is a lot like patting your head while stroking your stomach. Two completely different hand movements.
3: I guess I spoke too soon on no finger pain hah because playing continuously for 20 minutes a time while I practice keeping to a beat or changing chords has brought back that finger pain (and blisters!). I guess I'm practicing too much so probably should cut that back. Big difference betwen playing the whole time and spending that time trying to get the hang of chords.

I still look foward to each practice session even with the finger pain and blisters though. It's kind of zen since I have to completely focus on it.

Nitrousoxide fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Jan 17, 2023

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
One thing my teacher taught me back when I was learning and struggling with slow chord changes, just play the first beat of a 4 count at first. Then slowly work up to filling it in when you get quicker in your changes. It might feel like regression as it's very very basic but it focuses on your chord changes first, not so much strumming.

1(strum chord one once) let it ring through 2, 3, 4
2 (strum chord two once) let it ring through 234
3 (strum chord three once) let it ring 234
3 (strum chord four once) let it ring 234.

You should be tapping your foot to all four beats. Develop that sense of internal rhythm. Count out the 1234,2234,3234,4234 out loud.

The 234 beats give you ample time to transition to the next chord but still keep you motivated to get there before the next bar. Eventually you can pick up the pace and insert a strum on the 1 and 3. Then strum the chord all 4 beats.

This gets you started to an easy beat but you're first developing your chord changes before focusing too much on strumming patterns. Most guitarists can probably get a strumming pattern down before quick chord changes and you're always going to struggle maintaining a steady rhythm when you can't change quick enough. I found it easier to work at really slow easy rhythms and work on chord changes then work on increasing the speed.

When you get faster, then you can start playing around with different strumming patterns because your transitions will be faster.

Another tip, Mix up which chord transitions you do. Don't always go G C D. Swap them around a bit. Some chords go really well into the other. Some don't.

It's like a balance bike. It's easier to master something taking it one small part at a time vs drinking from the fire hose and trying to do it all at once. Isolate the fundamental parts and then putting it all together will come a little easier.

drhankmccoyphd
Jul 22, 2022
I'm narrowing down my search for a cheap reverb pedal. Found this page that looks decent. Anyone have opinions any of them? Friend of mine recommended the HOF mini. https://www.guitarworld.com/gear/best-budget-reverb-pedals

muike
Mar 16, 2011

ガチムチ セブン
i was gonna suggest the digitech polara but uhhhh digitech prices went way up

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
I really like the hall of Fame but it's kinda pricy. But it's good in that you get a bunch of options (and can expand them with some software) so you're not stuck with a plate reverb and you're not SOL when down the line you want a spring reverb

JamesKPolk
Apr 9, 2009

EHX is good in general but if you're looking for spring specifically you can find some heinously cheap clones of the Malekko one on Reverb

I'm normally easy to please with both lo-fi reverb and Behringer, but the DR600 is the one pedal of theirs I don't like

drhankmccoyphd
Jul 22, 2022
I'm seeing a SkySurfer on FB Marketplace for $35 which I may snag If I can talk him down to 20-30.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

drhankmccoyphd posted:

I'm narrowing down my search for a cheap reverb pedal. Found this page that looks decent. Anyone have opinions any of them? Friend of mine recommended the HOF mini. https://www.guitarworld.com/gear/best-budget-reverb-pedals

I have the hall of Fame and it's great. Lots of different types of reverb, very adjustable. I'd guess the mini is pretty great too.

TheMightyBoops
Nov 1, 2016

drhankmccoyphd posted:

I'm narrowing down my search for a cheap reverb pedal. Found this page that looks decent. Anyone have opinions any of them? Friend of mine recommended the HOF mini. https://www.guitarworld.com/gear/best-budget-reverb-pedals

I have the Sky Surfer to replace the reverb on my JC 30 and it’s really good and versatile for the price.

Disco Pope
Dec 6, 2004

Top Class!

Nitrousoxide posted:

Moving on to trying to actually play some chords to a beat now.
1: Trying to hold a chord as late as you can while still making the change for the next chord is HARD. And it makes it next to impossible for me to strum the correct strings since I'm busy staring at the fret board. I guess I need to practice a ton on making chord changes without looking. I imagine I'll get the hang of this just like I did with touch typing with practice.

Don't worry about looking too much - you're not performing, you're learning. Getting those changes accurate and smooth is the thing, they'll be committed to memory in time. You'll also pick up ways of muting unwanted string noise.

You'll develop calloused too. Don't be a stranger to the thread!

Nitrousoxide
May 30, 2011

do not buy a oneplus phone



Verman posted:

One thing my teacher taught me back when I was learning and struggling with slow chord changes, just play the first beat of a 4 count at first. Then slowly work up to filling it in when you get quicker in your changes. It might feel like regression as it's very very basic but it focuses on your chord changes first, not so much strumming.

1(strum chord one once) let it ring through 2, 3, 4
2 (strum chord two once) let it ring through 234
3 (strum chord three once) let it ring 234
3 (strum chord four once) let it ring 234.

You should be tapping your foot to all four beats. Develop that sense of internal rhythm. Count out the 1234,2234,3234,4234 out loud.

The 234 beats give you ample time to transition to the next chord but still keep you motivated to get there before the next bar. Eventually you can pick up the pace and insert a strum on the 1 and 3. Then strum the chord all 4 beats.

This gets you started to an easy beat but you're first developing your chord changes before focusing too much on strumming patterns. Most guitarists can probably get a strumming pattern down before quick chord changes and you're always going to struggle maintaining a steady rhythm when you can't change quick enough. I found it easier to work at really slow easy rhythms and work on chord changes then work on increasing the speed.

When you get faster, then you can start playing around with different strumming patterns because your transitions will be faster.

Another tip, Mix up which chord transitions you do. Don't always go G C D. Swap them around a bit. Some chords go really well into the other. Some don't.

It's like a balance bike. It's easier to master something taking it one small part at a time vs drinking from the fire hose and trying to do it all at once. Isolate the fundamental parts and then putting it all together will come a little easier.

I like this. I'll tone down the bpm down to something more managable and hold to 3 or 4 and use 4-1 to change for now. I guess I can try to gradually up the tempo as the days go on. That should give me concrete improvments to keep my motiviation up too. I know from other hobbies I've picked up before that not building in methods to see progress is a quick way to loose motiviation.

Right now the only chords I know are A, D and E so they all center around the G string and all work pretty well together for transitions. But I do switch them up through all the combos

Disco Pope posted:

Don't worry about looking too much - you're not performing, you're learning. Getting those changes accurate and smooth is the thing, they'll be committed to memory in time. You'll also pick up ways of muting unwanted string noise.

You'll develop calloused too. Don't be a stranger to the thread!

Thanks!

Southern Cassowary
Jan 3, 2023

I still use the JustinGuitar way of learning chords years later whenever I have to pick up a new chord shape/change/whatever:

- Spend several minutes practicing getting into the chord shape without a rhythm. I usually touch my leg, then fret the chord, then pick through each string to make sure the strings that are supposed to be ringing are ringing correctly and the muted strings are muted correctly. Repeat for a few minutes.
- Change between two chords (one being the one I'm learning) as fast as possible in a 1 minute period, counting the number of changes I make. Track this, it's satisfying seeing it go up.
- Pick some songs using the chords you're learning and learn to play them. Make them simpler if necessary - if you're just starting out you might be playing simple songs at slower tempos with whole-note strums for a bit until you get all the strumming and chord changes working together. This is okay.

This stuff gets easier with time. Then you'll go to learn barre chords (probably the F chord to start) and that's the next wall.

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



learning how to change chords is one of those things you can and should practice, but also important to take a break and come back to it each day. you'll find with the breaks your muscle memory will kick in and your fingers find the right positions, whereas practicing for hours you'll over think it.

Southern Cassowary
Jan 3, 2023

ethanol posted:

learning how to change chords is one of those things you can and should practice, but also important to take a break and come back to it each day. you'll find with the breaks your muscle memory will kick in and your fingers find the right positions, whereas practicing for hours you'll over think it.

the sleep between guitar practice sessions is probably the most valuable improvement tool

widefault
Mar 16, 2009
Bought a couple cheap AlNiCo Strat pickups from Amazon for a project.



Why are they wrapped up like gas station hot dogs? I have bought a ton of pickups in my life and never seen this before. They are what I ordered and seem to work fine so far.

landgrabber
Sep 13, 2015

ethanol posted:

learning how to change chords is one of those things you can and should practice, but also important to take a break and come back to it each day. you'll find with the breaks your muscle memory will kick in and your fingers find the right positions, whereas practicing for hours you'll over think it.

it's all in your brain -- it needs time to actually set in

landgrabber
Sep 13, 2015

honestly? quit when you start to get frustrated, even if you want to be tenacious and keep going.

but come back the next day. it will be a lot easier

Buschmaki
Dec 26, 2012

‿︵‿︵‿︵‿Lean Addict︵‿︵‿︵‿
I'm gonna be able to get guitar lessons for free through my college as a non-music major. I haven't had music instruction since high school so I'm super excited to get instant feedback on stuff!!

landgrabber
Sep 13, 2015

ok so nothing buzzes except the A string on the 4th fret. it gets buzzier the closer i get to that fret on either side.

it makes me so neurotic it's borderline impossible to play.

are there adjustments i can do or am i boned

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Check that fret with a fret rocker.

You don't have to buy one you can make one out of an old gift card or credit card whatever.

https://diyguitarbuilder.wordpress.com/2014/02/25/fret-levelling-you-take-the-high-cost-road-and-ill-take-the-low-cost-road/

If the fret is high no adjustment you make will help until you address that.

The ends can spring up with neck movement the fix is to wick some super glue into the sides and clamp that fret tight or bang it back in with a hammer(brass)

duodenum
Sep 18, 2005

You should be able to raise just that one bridge saddle a tiny bit until it stops buzzing. If the problem is really small.

landgrabber
Sep 13, 2015

one of these little screws is stripped. i can't raise it with the allen wrench that works for all the other ones. i loving hate my life to no end.

muike
Mar 16, 2011

ガチムチ セブン
Guessing that means height adjustment, which is def a pain but I'm sure you could get a replacement screw if it's removable, or a replacement saddle if not for super super cheap

edit: for the time being saddles can sit on just one of those worm screws for a good amount of time

landgrabber
Sep 13, 2015

gently caress strats dude leo got it right the first time.

selling everything including my body to the night for a butterscotch tele

muike
Mar 16, 2011

ガチムチ セブン
jokes aside i think esquires seem really fun and i'd love to try one through an old school amp

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



i noticed on my new mim, the hardware / screws they put on them compared to the mias isnt very high quality metal, but the good news all the hardware except getting a new tremolo block is really cheap to buy for your mim

https://www.sweetwater.com/c1247--M...cB&gclsrc=aw.ds

edit: mims are m3 so dont get teh ones in this link

ethanol fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Jan 18, 2023

muike
Mar 16, 2011

ガチムチ セブン
do modern MIM strats use american strat part measurements? or did they still segregate the parts for price/wanting you to buy a us strat sake

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



muike posted:

do modern MIM strats use american strat part measurements? or did they still segregate the parts for price/wanting you to buy a us strat sake

well barring the vintage changes or specialty models such as 11 hole pickguard for new strats vs 8 hole for vintage reissue or the say the sculped neck on the american pro II, for the most part all the parts between a modern mia strat and a mim strat will match measurements. I can't really think of anything that wouldn't

Huxley
Oct 10, 2012



Grimey Drawer

landgrabber posted:

one of these little screws is stripped. i can't raise it with the allen wrench that works for all the other ones. i loving hate my life to no end.

If you loosen up the string enough to get the saddle up off the plate you should be able to twist that screw from the bottom with a pair of needle nose pliers.

Huxley
Oct 10, 2012



Grimey Drawer
Probably your fingers, even.

landgrabber
Sep 13, 2015

muike posted:

jokes aside i think esquires seem really fun and i'd love to try one through an old school amp

yeah i do actually like the telecaster sound... i'd probably be using my telecaster more if it didn't play like rear end/encourage the opposite of the way i like to play

like, my strings feel real far apart on that guitar and harder to strum through, but that could just be part of the setup. i also like right hand muting and palm muting a lot and that does NOT feel good with an ashtray.

blah.

this guitar drive me crazy because there have been periods of time where it was perfect and then i got too greedy and wanted to fix just a liiiittle problem or two that i had with it, only for it to then make me pay dearly for daring to do such a thing.

it causes me to mentally spiral more than it should because like there're those people who always seem to have everything together and i really want to be that type of person instead of who i actually am (there's always some janky poo poo happening)

Good Soldier Svejk
Jul 5, 2010

Huxley posted:

If you loosen up the string enough to get the saddle up off the plate you should be able to twist that screw from the bottom with a pair of needle nose pliers.

Ah I know this game all too well. A packet of metric and imperial bridge screws are well worth the couple bucks to keep on hand because those fuckers just don't hold up

muike
Mar 16, 2011

ガチムチ セブン

ethanol posted:

well barring the vintage changes or specialty models such as 11 hole pickguard for new strats vs 8 hole for vintage reissue or the say the sculped neck on the american pro II, for the most part all the parts between a modern mia strat and a mim strat will match measurements. I can't really think of anything that wouldn't

that makes sense, i was probably thinking more about usa made vs asian made instruments that go imperial vs. metric

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



muike posted:

that makes sense, i was probably thinking more about usa made vs asian made instruments that go imperial vs. metric

you might actually be right, looks like they are m3 on mims?

burdt
Feb 28, 2009

i wanna make it (wit chu)
Save me from me. I want to replace the tone on my epiphone junior with this:

https://youtu.be/3I62Xfhts9k

It’s expanding on this thing:

https://www.singlecoil.com/docs/rotary.pdf

I just got an adjustable bridge and am running 13s on it. Maybe I should focus on playing instead!

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creamcorn
Oct 26, 2007

automatic gun for fast, continuous firing
don't buy a hof imo. they sound great, but the build quality on mine was a disaster, and they're basically impossible to service apart from the switch. giving uli behringer money is also bad.

if you don't strictly need a pedal, interface+ valhalla verb will get you great sounds for basically the same price if you get a cheap interface. plus you have an interface!

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