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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I was thinking more for rain or shine commuters that can't reasonably be expected to lube the chain every single day

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Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




Slavvy posted:

I'm surprised nobody has developed some kind of automatic chain oiler device like a scottoiler on motorbikes

One of the pro teams ran one for a bit, orica GE maybe? Was a dumb gimmick as far as I could tell. It certainly didn't catch on

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Slavvy posted:

I was thinking more for rain or shine commuters that can't reasonably be expected to lube the chain every single day
gates belt and voila

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

evil_bunnY posted:

gates belt and voila

Yeah sure but for the other 99% of bikes out there it seems like a really obvious thing, you can't expect aunty Meredith to ride to work every day and also lube her chain. Seems like an easy way to make money, especially off of ebike people.

mystes
May 31, 2006

for people who are commuting on a bike with a normal chain and don't want to do maintenance themselves surely it would make sense to add a chain cover or something before some weird self-lubricating device?

Adding lube is easier than actually cleaning the chain anyway

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




https://road.cc/content/review/223827-flaer-revo

There you go, hilariously expensive

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Slavvy posted:

I was thinking more for rain or shine commuters that can't reasonably be expected to lube the chain every single day

I'm a rain or shine year round commuter. I've been experimenting with it, and I haven't decided if it's net more or less work.
My cleaning routine with an oil based lube was less frequent but much more intensive.
Now it's get home, turn on tea kettle, pour hot water on chain, blast with air gun, reapply. Takes about 5 minutes (not including time waiting for the kettle).

The honest low effort choice is to just run a complete throwaway drive train all winter and just not bother cleaning it at all, but I hate doing that.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

That's true, a chain is $20 at the end of the day

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Slavvy posted:

That's true, a chain is $20 at the end of the day

You'll probably kill a chain, cassette, and maybe chainrings with that strategy but if you put 9spd or whatever on your winter commuter it's still pretty dang cheap.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

My commuter has a hub gear :smug: but I also live in a place where winter is just slightly colder and much wetter than summer so I just have to make sure there's enough oil and not too much grit on the chain

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Skarsnik posted:

Whilst I do appreciate you've apparently been lucky enough to try every chain, lube and bike part in existence, you don't ride in the British winter ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Yes it's rare that I ride in BRITISH WINTER equivalent conditions, but the US west coast was absolutely obliterated by heavy rain this month. The 160km ride with Silca Super Secret mentioned above was during an atmospheric river / Pineapple Express that destroyed all of our infrastructure.

Like bicievino says, you must wipe the chain down after each ride and preferably blow out the water with compressed air, and you need to reapply it after that much distance, but you kind of have to reapply an oil-based lube after that much distance in those conditions anyway.

TBH the non-rainy ride 2 days later with Flower Power was even more extreme, including riding through 10cm of standing water and lots of mud/dirt/sand being flung onto the drivetrain and NOT being washed away due to the absence of rain. I wanted to go 160km again, but the chain was squeaking by 110km so I limped home early. Oil-based wet lube would have been worse from the outset as it would have become a grinding paste earlier, but maybe better post 110km.

TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Jan 25, 2023

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

wooger posted:

Never said I’d used all (three?) of the lubes being discussed, just read the ZFC review of UFO though.

I use immersion waxed chains on my good bike, they last hundreds of miles, not worth it in the British winter though. The deal is to just not care that much, run a cheaper bike and put up with imperfectly clean & smooth drivetrain. An oil lube (Silca Synergetic for now) at least stops the rust.

I’ve ridden through flooded roads deeper than my BB three times in the last 2 weeks, there is not enough time or dry weather or daylight to keep things nice.


Kerin also says wax and wax drip lubes are just fine in the wet. I didn't believe him until I tried it. And look, if you have to ford a river of sewage or lava for 30km straight, both ways, then wax or wax drip lube might not last, but the sky literally dumped 12cm worth of rain on me over 160km and Silca Super Secret did "fine."

Besides, you keep claiming wax drip is inferior to molten wax here and on WW when the difference is fractions of 1W at 250W output. Yes it's slightly more expensive in the long run, but it takes up less space and takes seconds to drag the tip over each link. I've used molten wax for years with 11-speed because Connex links made it easy, but now that I'm using flattop chains, I don't want to use reuse plain old SRAM 12spd road PowerLock connectors too many times. Given how good wax drip lubes like UFO and Silca are, I am likely to convert back to wax drip-only instead of molten wax immersion + wax drip top-offs.

The nice thing about wax is that it's solid media and it keeps grit out from between rollers and inner plates. Ultimately surface rust is less bad than mud/grit/contamination.

TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Jan 25, 2023

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
My winter commuting adds up to about 2000 km/week, and when it's super salty and wet like it is most days now I need to lube daily or there's visible rust and more importantly it doesn't shift right. Light oils don't work either, right now I'm running motorcycle sticky stuff which holds up a little better. Grease can work but is too much work to apply. Imma get some chainsaw bar oil and try next. Cleaning chains simply doesn't happen, I let the brine do that, I just spray on more lube. I've taken to hosing the whole bike down with fresh water when I get home after a brine ride though, otherwise it gets encrusted in salt.

I mean, seriousy, look as this poo poo:





Anyways, consequences are that my bike gets absolutely filthy this time of year and it needs cassette/chain (+ a bunch of bearings and shifter cable) every spring. Another thing I should try I guess is putting a rubber flap fender extender or something up front and try to keep the brine spray hitting the chain down, that would probably help some. The other bike with better fenders, hub gears and a chain guard isn't nearly as bad for maintenance, then again it runs fine with a crusty chain which a derailleur doesn't.

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe

Invalido posted:

My winter commuting adds up to about 2000 km/week,

When do you sleep?

mystes
May 31, 2006

wait that has to be some sort of typo right?

jetz0r
May 10, 2003

Tomorrow, our nation will sit on the throne of the world. This is not a figment of the imagination, but a fact. Tomorrow we will lead the world, Allah willing.



EvilJoven posted:

When do you sleep?

on the downhills.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
yes, that's a zero too many. Regardless of which bike I ride it's over an hour in the saddle daily but unless conditions are exceptionally bad it's still not much more time than it takes to commute by car or motorcycle and much quicker than public transport. I sleep more and better from biking too. Except yesterday I had to do some late night shifter cable cleaning, hope it worked. Salt gums up the works over time and top gear gets unreliable. I loathe road salt, I get that it's there for a good reason but personally I think I'd rather deal with the ice.

mexecan
Jul 10, 2006

mexecan posted:

So this happened earlier. About halfway through a 100km ride my front shifting started acting up: couldn’t get into the big ring.

I figured it was cable stretch and just worked through it.

But just before I got home my left crank popped off. That’s never happened before…

So my ride finished with some 1 legged drills.

Bike is a 2021 Aspero. BBright bottom bracket. Shimano GRX cranks. 2000km on the bike.

I’ve cleaned it up and will put it back together later. Maybe switch out the BB at that time anyways - the OEM ones specced to the Aspero are not good I can can already feel a good amount of grit in the bearings as a result of PNW winter riding.

Likely culprit here is under torque at time of assembly, correct? Or am I missing something?





An update on this.

At the time this happened a year ago I took this to my LBS and they diagnosed this as an issue with the BB shell. Essentially, the BB was moving around in the shell, which is what resulted in the crankset coming apart over time. This was still when bike supply chains were mostly hosed so we agreed that they'd essentially try gluing the BB in with blue loctite, marking the BB shell and seeing what happened over time. We agreed that if the issue wasn't resolved we'd seek resolution with Cervelo

The BB bearings themselves were also cooked so they also replaced the BB itself with a nicer Wheels MFG BB - it's known issue that Cervelo uses a combination of match sticks and bonds in their OEM bearings.

Fast forward to last weekend and the same thing happened again: crank arm fell off in the middle of nowhere and I had to call for a ride. Supply chains are less hosed now so Cervelo is replacing the frame. My LBS had to measure the BB shell to confirm just how far out of spec it is but I give credit for Cervelo for making this right.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
> so Cervelo is replacing the frame
Does that cover the labor to swap things over?

Lex Neville
Apr 15, 2009
My new drivetrain, thoroughly cleaned and waxed in silca secret blend, seems much louder than my old one with dynamic speed potion drip lube, to the point where it is grating. I'm confident I have done it right as silca walk you through it in detail. I'm hoping it's just the chain's stiffness. Does it get better after riding awhile? Or do any of you have any suggestions as to what it could be?

I've also swapped out my old 6800 short cage RD for an R8000 with a longer cage and my 11-28 cassette for an 11-32 cassette, fwiw

Lex Neville fucked around with this message at 10:15 on Jan 28, 2023

Heliosicle
May 16, 2013

Arigato, Racists.

mexecan posted:

An update on this.

At the time this happened a year ago I took this to my LBS and they diagnosed this as an issue with the BB shell. Essentially, the BB was moving around in the shell, which is what resulted in the crankset coming apart over time. This was still when bike supply chains were mostly hosed so we agreed that they'd essentially try gluing the BB in with blue loctite, marking the BB shell and seeing what happened over time. We agreed that if the issue wasn't resolved we'd seek resolution with Cervelo

The BB bearings themselves were also cooked so they also replaced the BB itself with a nicer Wheels MFG BB - it's known issue that Cervelo uses a combination of match sticks and bonds in their OEM bearings.

Fast forward to last weekend and the same thing happened again: crank arm fell off in the middle of nowhere and I had to call for a ride. Supply chains are less hosed now so Cervelo is replacing the frame. My LBS had to measure the BB shell to confirm just how far out of spec it is but I give credit for Cervelo for making this right.

Seems like a lot of people have had problems with the stock thread together BB's cervelo used, but hadn't heard of something like this, especially after a replacement was installed.

My Aspero (with DUB BB) came with the SRAM BBRight press-fit BB installed, which I hope is going to end up being much better than the crappy thread together one. But if the shell turns out to be similarly out of tolerance then it'll end up with issues down the line too.

Hope your new frame arrives quickly and you don't get any more problems!

Lex Neville
Apr 15, 2009
A ride fixed the noise... :blush:

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Lex Neville posted:

A ride fixed the noise... :blush:

I was gonna say this. Went from Campy 10sp to Force 22 on my road bike and was like "wtf it's so loud". Quieted down nicely after a ride or three.

mexecan
Jul 10, 2006

Heliosicle posted:

Seems like a lot of people have had problems with the stock thread together BB's cervelo used, but hadn't heard of something like this, especially after a replacement was installed.

My Aspero (with DUB BB) came with the SRAM BBRight press-fit BB installed, which I hope is going to end up being much better than the crappy thread together one. But if the shell turns out to be similarly out of tolerance then it'll end up with issues down the line too.

Hope your new frame arrives quickly and you don't get any more problems!

Based on what I’ve seen on the FB group, it seems like a limited issue. And most posts with the issue are associated with GRX 600 crank.

But I know two other folks with the same frame and they’ve had zero issues.

But if Cervelo updates the Aspero with a T47 BB like that in the Soloist and R5-CX I’d likely go that route.

I have steel gravel rig that I can take off the indoor trainer and I will be updating a few things on the bike at the same time anyways so it’s a minor inconvenience.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I want to switch to immersion waxing my chain but I'm finding it surprisingly difficult to find the stuff locally. Anyone know where I can get it in NZ? Or alternatively a non-brutal shipping option online. I'm prepared to do it diy with paraffin wax but want to avoid that if I can.

E: would this stuff do the job?

Slavvy fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Jan 29, 2023

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
Paraffin wax works great, just use that.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

My main concern with that is the idea of finding ptfe and working out how much to put in, I'm not good at cooking

jetz0r
May 10, 2003

Tomorrow, our nation will sit on the throne of the world. This is not a figment of the imagination, but a fact. Tomorrow we will lead the world, Allah willing.



Slavvy posted:

My main concern with that is the idea of finding ptfe and working out how much to put in, I'm not good at cooking

Just use food grade paraffin wax.

That's it.

Don't add anything, just use paraffin wax.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Does it have to be food grade specifically? Everything I can find locally is for candles.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

Slavvy posted:

Does it have to be food grade specifically? Everything I can find locally is for candles.

https://www.ceracell.co.nz/paraffin-wax-5kg/ says suitable for contact with food, and 2lbs is plenty. I'd give it a go.

Candle wax might be fine too, can't find anything definitive on that.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

sweat poteto posted:

https://www.ceracell.co.nz/paraffin-wax-5kg/ says suitable for contact with food, and 2lbs is plenty. I'd give it a go.

Candle wax might be fine too, can't find anything definitive on that.

Awesome thanks, I saw that stuff but wasn't sure if it would do the trick

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Candle wax might be partially beeswax no? I use wax for waterproofing canvas and it's a 50/50 mix.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
Sounds like candle wax could have various additives whereas "food grade" definitely doesn't. Candle wax is probably completely fine to use for chains.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

mystes posted:

for people who are commuting on a bike with a normal chain and don't want to do maintenance themselves surely it would make sense to add a chain cover or something before some weird self-lubricating device?
Yeah a fully enclosed chainline will stay operable for a shockingly long time.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

I would just like to take a moment to say that I hate retractable pet leashes. I will not explain further.

E: oops wrong thread oh well

CopperHound fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Jan 30, 2023

mystes
May 31, 2006

I just hate people with poorly trained dogs they can't keep under control

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

CopperHound posted:

I would just like to take a moment to say that I hate retractable pet leashes. I will not explain further.

E: oops wrong thread oh well

Kinda fits here, I still have ligature scars on my wrists from getting clotheslined by a retractable leash that was across the entire lane while I was cycling.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

mystes posted:

I just hate people with poorly trained dogs they can't keep under control

Every zone is an off leash zone if you're an absolute wanker

I enjoy people who walk their dogs on the fenced off concrete runway paralleling the motorway (sometimes referred to as a 'cycleway') instead of one of the many dog specific parks scattered around the city

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

I once scared the bejeezus out of some dude because his dog darted into the bike path as I passed him, and the only other option I had was into him. I took that option. Ended up being able to stop in time, but he really didn't like me putting the safety of his dog above his lmao.

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Yeep
Nov 8, 2004
Are Pedros tyre leves still the best option for portable levers? I've broken 2 lezyne and all the cheap levers that came with my no-name toolkit (and pinch flatted two tubes) trying to get get tyres on the second hand DT Swiss MTB wheels I bought.

Is there a better option than levers for keeping in my workshop? Facebook shows me lots of adverts for fancy looking bits of plastic but I've no idea if they're actually worth it.

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