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heffray
Sep 18, 2010

Lowered* my SS with Pedders X-Low spring set, and installed KMAC front strut mounts because the stock ones were starting to fail. Learned some things about the accuracy of various vendors' part catalogues for stuff in the G8 / SS / Commodore line.

The rubber donut here should still be touching the body, and its upward movement is because a load-bearing piece of rubber is starting to go.

Before:


After:

*advertised 20mm front, 15mm rear drop

Actual ride height changes: +3mm front left, +9mm front right, -10mm rear left, -6mm rear right. Probably 5mm of the front lift is due to the uncollapsed strut mount. It’s firmer now, which matches the advertised spring rates. I’m fine with the rear ride height, I was looking for a slight drop but don’t want the inconvenience of a low street car. The front is bothering me a bit: I’m thinking about cutting off a dead coil that’s fully stacked against the one below it at rest, which would knock 15mm off the front height and even out the fender to floor distance without changing spring rate.

I also installed lower rear subframe bushing inserts from Whiteline. The top inserts are for an earlier version of the car and are not shaped correctly for a 2017 SS, but the lower pieces fit and may help control rear suspension movement under high lateral loads. The most correct solution is solid mounts, but that’s more expensive and more work to install.

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kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

Raluek posted:

so you know those two-pin hermaphroditic automotive bullet connectors? apparently the front marker lights use those.

For future reference these are called "SAE connectors" and are based on (but not described by) SAE standards J928 and J1239. No 2 pin variety was ever in the standards but people drew between the lines to create one.

Yerok
Jan 11, 2009
Did some diagnosing on the shitbox 7.3. It's been getting progressively louder, not like it's easy to tell on an old clapped out 7.3. Pretty sure I have at least one injector that needs the hold down bolt retorqued. Hopefully none of them have loosened up to the point that they have to come out for new seals.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

heffray posted:

Lowered* my SS with Pedders X-Low spring set, and installed KMAC front strut mounts because the stock ones were starting to fail. Learned some things about the accuracy of various vendors' part catalogues for stuff in the G8 / SS / Commodore line.

The rubber donut here should still be touching the body, and its upward movement is because a load-bearing piece of rubber is starting to go.

Before:


After:

*advertised 20mm front, 15mm rear drop

Actual ride height changes: +3mm front left, +9mm front right, -10mm rear left, -6mm rear right. Probably 5mm of the front lift is due to the uncollapsed strut mount. It’s firmer now, which matches the advertised spring rates. I’m fine with the rear ride height, I was looking for a slight drop but don’t want the inconvenience of a low street car. The front is bothering me a bit: I’m thinking about cutting off a dead coil that’s fully stacked against the one below it at rest, which would knock 15mm off the front height and even out the fender to floor distance without changing spring rate.

I also installed lower rear subframe bushing inserts from Whiteline. The top inserts are for an earlier version of the car and are not shaped correctly for a 2017 SS, but the lower pieces fit and may help control rear suspension movement under high lateral loads. The most correct solution is solid mounts, but that’s more expensive and more work to install.

I was about to post the office “they’re the same picture” meme.

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm

heffray posted:

Lowered* my SS with Pedders X-Low spring set, and installed KMAC front strut mounts because the stock ones were starting to fail. Learned some things about the accuracy of various vendors' part catalogues for stuff in the G8 / SS / Commodore line.


It looks good, hopefully it improves tire wear too :)
You coming out this weekend?

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


heffray posted:

Lowered* my SS with Pedders X-Low spring set, and installed KMAC front strut mounts because the stock ones were starting to fail. Learned some things about the accuracy of various vendors' part catalogues for stuff in the G8 / SS / Commodore line.

The rubber donut here should still be touching the body, and its upward movement is because a load-bearing piece of rubber is starting to go.

Before:


After:

*advertised 20mm front, 15mm rear drop

Actual ride height changes: +3mm front left, +9mm front right, -10mm rear left, -6mm rear right. Probably 5mm of the front lift is due to the uncollapsed strut mount. It’s firmer now, which matches the advertised spring rates. I’m fine with the rear ride height, I was looking for a slight drop but don’t want the inconvenience of a low street car. The front is bothering me a bit: I’m thinking about cutting off a dead coil that’s fully stacked against the one below it at rest, which would knock 15mm off the front height and even out the fender to floor distance without changing spring rate.

I also installed lower rear subframe bushing inserts from Whiteline. The top inserts are for an earlier version of the car and are not shaped correctly for a 2017 SS, but the lower pieces fit and may help control rear suspension movement under high lateral loads. The most correct solution is solid mounts, but that’s more expensive and more work to install.

I had something like that when I replaced the 30+ year old stock springs on my '90 RX-7 with Racing Beat "lowering" springs. I didn't actually measure, but I'm fairly sure it *raised* the car a bit. Not much, and it certainly rode and handled better, but it was just funny.

heffray
Sep 18, 2010

BlackMK4 posted:

It looks good, hopefully it improves tire wear too :)
You coming out this weekend?
I'll have it at -2.5 front camber before my next event, which should help. I'm not sure how much more front tire I can fit under it, that will be clear once the alignment is done.

Not driving this weekend, I'm driving a rental Camry around southern New Mexico going to national parks at the moment. I'll be out for the time attack dyno weekend and probably the March event, my calendar is a mess.

ThirstyBuck
Nov 6, 2010

I started with several boxes of parts for my sport wagon.



On the most recent inspection, my mechanic said that the front brakes need to be replaced. Given that I drive about 3k miles a year, I think these had some life left in them.



This little cap very much did not want to come off and almost torpedoed the entire afternoon. Copius PB Blaster, much hammering, and lots of brap brap brap set them both free. I can't believe that the allen head didn't round out from all of impact wrench I applied.



335 brakes were only $100 bucks more to do than the standard 328 brakes and they are a direct bolt on.
Here is the old and the new.



In place and almost done.



Bleeding



How much brake fluid can one spill? All of it. Actually all of it three times. I made a huge mess.



I'm not sure why I keep upgrading this slow turd but it is decently enjoyable to drive at this point for dad daily duty.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

PitViper posted:

I know the Crosstrek had a recall of part of the shifter assembly that caused the exact symptoms I have, and the revised part is only about $65. But I'd rather KNOW that's the problem before I replace it, rather than shotgunning parts at it. Need to order some new backprobes so I can see what the solenoid is getting when it happens. My temp solution is just unplugging th solenoid, because at least we can turn the car off and remove the key 100% of the time now.

Turn the key to ACC, make sure it won't go further with plenty of jiggling, then unplug the solenoid as carefully as you can without bumping the cylinder or solenoid. If it clicks as soon as it loses contact, you know the solenoid is staying energized - plug it back in, see if it clicks back on. You can likely rule out backprobing that way.

My Integra pulled the same poo poo, FWIW. Gummed up PRNDL switch in the console, and it was a super common problem on 90-93 Integras (mainly an issue in the cold). On the Integra, there was also a PRNDL indicator on the cluster - it wouldn't light up P for several minutes after putting it in park when it was acting up. If I turned it off, I couldn't restart it unless I put the car in neutral.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

Welcome and thank you for shopping at Wal-Mart!
I love you!

STR posted:

Turn the key to ACC, make sure it won't go further with plenty of jiggling, then unplug the solenoid as carefully as you can without bumping the cylinder or solenoid. If it clicks as soon as it loses contact, you know the solenoid is staying energized - plug it back in, see if it clicks back on. You can likely rule out backprobing that way.

My Integra pulled the same poo poo, FWIW. Gummed up PRNDL switch in the console, and it was a super common problem on 90-93 Integras (mainly an issue in the cold). On the Integra, there was also a PRNDL indicator on the cluster - it wouldn't light up P for several minutes after putting it in park when it was acting up. If I turned it off, I couldn't restart it unless I put the car in neutral.

After thinking about it for a few minutes, that's the conclusion I came to. That's the exact test I did on it, it's too quiet to hear it click but as soon as I unplug the solenoid I can turn the key to OFF.

Skipping the new backprobes set (maybe) and just ordering the assembly that's under the TSB for the shifter.

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
I washed and waxed the daily because I'm guessing it hadn't seen good treatment much before I bought it based on how vigorously it collected water spots. Of the used BMWs I've bought, it doesn't have the worst paint, that honor stays with the barbera red E90, but man, it's not all that far off.



Sadly, the stick shift version did not manage to detail itself via proximity.



I'm probably going to have the bumped resprayed on the black one, and I'm starting to wonder if I should just do the hood as well. 100k miles of mostly highway is harsh.

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe

Alarbus posted:

I washed and waxed the daily because I'm guessing it hadn't seen good treatment much before I bought it based on how vigorously it collected water spots. Of the used BMWs I've bought, it doesn't have the worst paint, that honor stays with the barbera red E90, but man, it's not all that far off.



Sadly, the stick shift version did not manage to detail itself via proximity.



I'm probably going to have the bumped resprayed on the black one, and I'm starting to wonder if I should just do the hood as well. 100k miles of mostly highway is harsh.

if you're gonna have the bumper redone, doing the hood will also make it colormatch better.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

kastein posted:

For future reference these are called "SAE connectors" and are based on (but not described by) SAE standards J928 and J1239. No 2 pin variety was ever in the standards but people drew between the lines to create one.

thanks, this is good to know, although i hate the name for the same reason as "ieee cable"

Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!
FALL TO ME



now to unstick the passenger side. the hub end is currently soaking in deep creep :negative:

edit: i think i pulled the inner joint apart trying to yank it out :pwn:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_KNwdaCgzI

Panty Saluter fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Jan 17, 2023

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Last time I had to pull a CV axle, I snuck a steel pipe in from the other side of the car, put the end of the pipe up against a flange on the axle, and duct taped it in place so it wouldn't fall.

Then I hit the end of the pipe with a sledge hammer a couple times. That did the trick.

Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!
I went the boring route and got some big popper forks. Still had to beat on it with my 4lb dead blow for a minute. I love this car a lot, or I would not put up with this level of rusted and stuck rear end parts

Yerok
Jan 11, 2009
Well the 7.3 compression numbers were good for 330k miles. All cylinders right around 360-370 psi cold.

The valve cover harnesses I ordered from Prosource, on the other hand, had such bad molding flash that they are literally unusable. Dorman stopped buying theirs from whatever overseas supplier was making the one piece ones and went back to the original two piece design like the Motorcraft ones, so those are out. By a stroke of luck I discovered that a local diesel shop bought the Wisconsin company that was producing US made one piece UVCH's and their inventory/parts counter is about 10 minutes from my house.

Wish I had figured that out before I wasted $60 on next day Fedex for unusable garbage parts. C'est la shitbox.

Yerok fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Jan 18, 2023

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

ryanrs posted:

Last time I had to pull a CV axle...

"Last time" was the passenger side. Today I checked out the driver side CV axle and found this:



Guess I better replace that soon!

Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!
Yeah I'm finding the passenger CV to be at least as stubborn as the driver side, and with less clearance for levers. Which i didnt think was possible but lmao

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Installed a boost gauge and pod, the first of a few IPD goodies to come on the S60R.

heffray
Sep 18, 2010

Following my recent spring install: I spent some time figuring out the mismatch between the KMAC strut bushings and the hardware I had available, and found a solution.
Problem: both the OEM nut and the supplied KMAC nut with a stepped section to align the top of the strut mount with the shaft don't extend below the bottom of the threads. I'm assuming my MRC struts have a different unthreaded / threaded length combo than normal VE/VF parts, but at any rate it won't tighten down:


So, onward to Mcmaster to find a suitable spacer. I could also buy a spacer that matches the ID and OD and have a step machined into it, but that's more legwork. I found a "press in drill bushing" that matches the sizes I need. The ID is about .3mm too small, and the OD is a similar amount oversized. So, dremel sanding wheel until things fit:



This all worked nicely, I can get more than enough front camber with the strut mount and the stock adjustment, and NVH is reasonable considering I replaced a large piece of rubber with machined steel and a thin urethane layer.

I also cut a dead coil off the Pedders front springs, for a net lowering of 3mm (rear is still 11mm lowered). It rides well though, and is definitely firmer but is in line with what I'd expect for a factory car with a sport suspension package.

thealphabetsez
Jun 1, 2004

Imperador do Brasil posted:

Installed a boost gauge and pod, the first of a few IPD goodies to come on the S60R.



This is drat cool :3: ipd really nailed the design and whole execution on those pods.

Also that view is a time warp back 15 years for me—the P2Rs are dope :burger:

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Couple more small goodies from IPD for the S60R.

Gas cap strap - no more laying the cap on the trunk and hoping I remember it.


Strut bar conversion. The factory pieces have rubber in the middle and allow the strut bar to flex, acting really more as an engine support than a true strut bar.


BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm

heffray posted:


So, onward to Mcmaster to find a suitable spacer. I could also buy a spacer that matches the ID and OD and have a step machined into it, but that's more legwork. I found a "press in drill bushing" that matches the sizes I need. The ID is about .3mm too small, and the OD is a similar amount oversized. So, dremel sanding wheel until things fit:

looks great :)

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Got rid of one basketcase - one that actively attracted unwanted attention, got me pulled over constantly, and actively lowered property values. Also, the transmission had pretty much lost all forward momentum.



Only to replace with another cheap basketcase (1 year newer, about 35k more miles, but I have a funny feeling it might be slightly more reliable - and won't get me pulled over constantly... or actively lower property values everywhere I go)







My bum bum quite enjoys the heated and cooled seats.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Jan 27, 2023

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
That is quite a nice replacement and upgrade over the cvpi and the saturd.

Chunjee
Oct 27, 2004

Nice Lexus. wtf were they pulling you over for?

STR posted:

actively lowered property values.

Never stopped me before, not gonna stop me now :whatup:

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
In effort of moving away from 18" wheels so I can start winning tires again via contingency and getting some classing points back I moved from 18x9.5 wheels to 17x9.5 wheels and from Stoptech 355mm / 345mm big brake kit to an optional factory Brembo BRZ setup.

It's really not THAT much of a change in brake size, much to my surprise.

I'll paint the rear calipers red to match before I finalize.







For fun, this is a 355mm setup under a 17" wheel. You could absolutely get it to clear with a bit of grinder time or very, very specific (custom since 5x100 wheel choice is literal dogshit) wheel choice.


Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself





Always love your cars and posts. I'd read your thread. :allears:

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Chunjee posted:

Nice Lexus. wtf were they pulling you over for?

The same reason everyone in a beat to poo poo Crown Vic (particularly P71s), and beaters in general, gets pulled over for. "we've had complaints of you driving through neighborhoods slowly, people think you're casin... poo poo YOU'RE A DECENTLY DRESSED WHITE GUY NEVERMIND JUST KIDDING SIR HAVE A NICE DAY BTW YOUR TAILLIGHT IS OUT" (it never was)

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:34 on Jan 28, 2023

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm

Suburban Dad posted:

Always love your cars and posts. I'd read your thread. :allears:

:love:

I have a small thread on ft86club, I am just not good at updating or writing well :v:

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

TPMS light gone! It's an old enough system that it doesn't tell you WHICH tire has issues... or what pressure actually is.

All 4 tires were at 35 (I thought it felt like they were a bit overinflated with how it drove); spec on the door sticker is 30. Started the car, started letting air out. Saw the light go off when I got to the 4th tire.

Checked the spare, since you never know when you'll need it. Turns out it also has TPMS - it was down to 20, but I'm assuming there's not a reader in the trunk.

Between their finance lady calling me at work and giving me SERIOUS poo poo about my insurance and ID (claimed I only had "forged liability documents" and a "fake expired ID"), and the hell they put me through yesterday, plus their "125 point inspection" missing something incredibly obvious, I'm going to go have a discussion with their GM tomorrow. And threaten to use the 5 day return policy. May as well get under their skin the way they got under mine.

You don't call me at work for this. You especially don't call me threatening to repo the car because you can't loving read.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


STR posted:

Only to replace with another cheap basketcase (1 year newer, about 35k more miles, but I have a funny feeling it might be slightly more reliable - and won't get me pulled over constantly... or actively lower property values everywhere I go)

That seems like a pretty decent upgrade, has got to be better in almost every way. Every time someone asks me for advice on a comfortable commuter that gets reasonable mpg I recommend a prius, if they're anti-hybrid I tell them to go find a used lexus with a dealership maintenance history.

BlackMK4 posted:

For fun, this is a 355mm setup under a 17" wheel. You could absolutely get it to clear with a bit of grinder time or very, very specific (custom since 5x100 wheel choice is literal dogshit) wheel choice.


Looks like a self clearancing problem to me, send it

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




BlackMK4 posted:

:love:

I have a small thread on ft86club, I am just not good at updating or writing well :v:

What you're doing is interesting. All the other junk doesn't have to be perfect because the pics are always cool and racing is rad. But yeah don't do it if it's a drag for you. I just enjoy your cars and posts. :)

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Trans fluid change on the S60R - went with Redline MT-90, and felt an immediate improvement in shift feel just in the driveway.

Total time was about 30-40 minutes, a totally worthwhile effort.



randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

NitroSpazzz posted:

That seems like a pretty decent upgrade, has got to be better in almost every way. Every time someone asks me for advice on a comfortable commuter that gets reasonable mpg I recommend a prius, if they're anti-hybrid I tell them to go find a used lexus with a dealership maintenance history.

It is in every way except one - no V8 rumble. I don't think this would sound so great with glasspacks. :v:

Faster, more comfortable, handles better, easier to park, better mileage. City mileage so far seems to be about what the Vic's highway mileage was (according to the info screen). Window sticker claims 27 highway, I've already seen 30+ on the driver info center (though I know those aren't terribly accurate - I reset the trip odometer when I filled up, I'll do a proper MPG calculation next time I fill up).

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



BlackMK4 posted:

I am just not good at updating or writing well :v:

Never stopped me :shrug:

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.

BlackMK4 posted:

:love:

I have a small thread on ft86club, I am just not good at updating or writing well :v:

*Looks at his threads that haven't been updated since 2 weeks ago, over a month ago, and... Since August*

What are you waiting for

destructo
Apr 29, 2006

Replacing the OEM Pagids that squeal at all temperatures and speeds with some EBC Reds. Also unhappily found out that the backing plates are not machined correctly in the rear and the wear sensors don't fit, but for how much driving I do, I'm not terribly worried about it. Jacking up a car with this much rear weight bias still gives me the willies.

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honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

What is happening with the jack? It looks like a slip over stool/stand.

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