|
I am in desperate need of some help. I'm trying to keep my 850 on the road just a little bit longer. It's a 5-speed and the steel hydraulic line running to the slave cylinder has rusted through. I dropped the car off at a local shop a month ago and they've had no luck finding a replacement, but they're only looking local. I've searched the internet - Rockauto, FCP, RMEuropean, PelicanParts, Ebay, and found one and ordered it, but it turns out they were wrong and canceled my order. The part number from FTE is 9181437, and I believe it is also a Centric 15139001. There has to be some stock in Europe, surely. If I can't get this replaced I'll have to scrap it (which is probably where it belongs anyway to be honest). Where else can I look?
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 12:54
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 08:00 |
|
|
I’d think they could make the steel line themselves. If it’s the rubber bit causing the delay, hydraulic hose repair shops are another option. It might be worth looking for a different shop honestly or at least discussing this option.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 13:38
|
|
|
nitsuga posted:I’d think they could make the steel line themselves. If it’s the rubber bit causing the delay, hydraulic hose repair shops are another option. It might be worth looking for a different shop honestly or at least discussing this option. They mentioned it's the rubber bit as well as the fittings which they said were 'strange.' This is a fairly small shop in rural Indiana but they've made me brake lines before so I know they can bend steel and add fititngs.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 14:02
|
|
|
The FTE part makes that clearer. Sorry should’ve checked that out. I did find this though: https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/drive-train/clutch-control/clutch-hydraulics/clutch-hoses-tubes/clutch-hose/1004639/ It’s that or lucking out at the junkyard or on the SwedeSpeed forums with a part out from the looks of things.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 15:06
|
|
|
Yeah as long as the ends are there and not ruined you should be able to fabricate the rest out of standard brake line and hose. And that's the worst case scenario. This is not something to even ponder scrapping the car over.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2022 15:18
|
|
|
It feels weird to not have to worry "What's Next?" on a P2R anymore.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2022 22:41
|
|
|
As a Swede I should love Volvos, but I never really got into them but I've always liked my dads V70 as a car. Recently something really clicked when we got a dog (greyhound) and saw how happy she was in the back of it (while still having half the space left for stuff). We have an vw id.3 that's great, but we got it before the dog and I would probably not get it if doing it over as it's pretty limited (dog has a big bed in the back but there's not room for anything else). .... so now I'm YouTubing Volvos and man the 850 wagon is pretty drat cool with that 5-cylinder sound (I had forgotten how drat good they sound). I can listen to that sound all day long. Almost considering getting a cheap one just for the sound.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2022 08:30
|
|
|
The ETS light came on in my T5 S70. Throttle seems fine for now, but the driver door doesn't open on that car, the transmission has a wire fault, and its in horrendous cosmetic shape. I think the solution is to buy a Volvo 740 so parts are harder to find and more expensive. My stupid GTI runs fine and has no problems (smh VW trash) so I really need to replace the volvo. Thinking of getting a turbo 740/760 but the turbos are pretty much always leaking or blown when I see one listed. Has anyone got one rebuilt in the last few years? what should I budget, 1200? Lifespan wise, is it better to send off the original for a rebuild, or buy one already built?
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2022 18:05
|
|
|
What should I know if I'm thinking of getting a C30? I have never owned a Volvo before but I like my sister's wagon of similar vintage, and the C30 looks cool.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2022 15:06
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:What should I know if I'm thinking of getting a C30? I have never owned a Volvo before but I like my sister's wagon of similar vintage, and the C30 looks cool. Get one, they're great. like all eurostuff of that vintage, pay upfront for a good/low miles one. I did not and it has bit me hard a few times (but I wanted a turbo one and needed one with no sunroof because of my height, and that particular combo is kind of rare so I got the only one available lol) Make sure you have easy access to a good Volvo dealer, the aftermarket maintenance/repair parts for these things are often absolutely fuckawful or just not available but dealer parts are generally reasonable in price. I have to get all my parts out of Volvo of Vancouver because the one here is poo poo. It has a GDCS (sort of), replace the whole cooling system (particularly the surge tank and thermostat housing) on your baseline, its not uncommon for a cooling system failure to wreck the cylinder head before the temp gauge moves one notch). Speaking of cooling, the thermostat is ridiculously hot. Mine being higher miles the engine harness is starting to get quite crispy from being baked all the time. They do not make colder stats and I reckon if they did there might be codes for the engine not fully warming up. More reason to find a good/low miles one, though I'll be ordering a whole harness from Volvo soon to fix mine up. the accessory belts are a bastard because the engine is basically car forum swapped into the chassis. It's a factory BP-swapped Festiva. The alternator belt runs off the a/c compressor, a/c belt drives everything and a failure of either will cascade fail into lunching the timing belt and it's an interference motor. Keep the accessory belts (and the accessories they drive) in excellent shape. The chassis is mk2 Focus/Mazda3, with all the lego fun that entails. FoRS front 6 pots allegedly bolt right up, as well as any other brake on the platform (bonus: you can also put Mazda3 hubs/brakes in it for 5x4.5 wheel shenanigans) and all the bushings etc. but the rear sway bar design changed a few times so the best stock bar that fits is the 2012 Speed3 (<$100 from most dealers). The hatch is less useful than say an 850 wagon but more useful than you'd think. Sparkly vampire movie references are not as big a problem as you'd think (very few people paid attention to the cars in that drivel) If you get one from Quebec (the place they sold best on the entire continent, Montreal went absolutely nuts for them) you have to pay for a language reflash, only one language is stored in all the modules. Strongly consider swapping the clutch/FW to a SMF if you get a manual one and drill out the clutch delay valve, those two things made the biggest improvement to the overall driving experience of all the things I've done. Get a CAI because the stock airbox makes all maintenance suck horribly just look at the fuckin thing 
Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Dec 25, 2022 |
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2022 18:33
|
|
|
Nasty Old Randy posted:The ETS light came on in my T5 S70. Throttle seems fine for now, but the driver door doesn't open on that car, the transmission has a wire fault, and its in horrendous cosmetic shape. I think the solution is to buy a Volvo 740 so parts are harder to find and more expensive. Turbo rebuilding should be way cheaper than that. Chinese kits that work fine are like $60. Paying someone competent to use a good kit and give it a through cleaning and reassembly should be a few hundred at most. I think the good pro shops that are highly recommended are only $500-$600. There should be no difference in lifespan between repair or replacement. If you want the best in reliability with a little better sound deadening, get a 9 series turbo. It's the same car with more trunk and all the reliability improvements possible. When maintained they will run for loving ever. Keeping the interior nice will be the hardest part of owning it. Sagebrush posted:What should I know if I'm thinking of getting a C30? I have never owned a Volvo before but I like my sister's wagon of similar vintage, and the C30 looks cool. They are great cars with two major weak spots that must be dealt with: The belts (timing and accessory), and the cooling system rubber and plastic parts. There are other minor issues that come up but if you stay on top of those two things you can easily pull 300k miles out of one. If you don't, you will blow the motor. These cars are killed by one of three things: If you leak the coolant it will overheat. Driving it while overheated will pop the head gasket in an incredibly short amount of time. There is no limping it along to the next spot, you either stop immediately or you blow the motor. If you throw a timing belt it will bend all the valves. If you throw an accessory belt it very frequently wraps around the crank pulley and gets tangled in the timing belt, which throws it and bends all the valves. Yes it's repairable, yes, it's super loving expensive. There are absolutely zero cheap replacement motors, because these are the most common issues. OTOH they're only chronic issues because people wait for failure instead of doing preventative maintenance. That said, my daughter drives the wagon variant, and one of my best friends has a C30 that I help him maintain. There is a good aftermarket for them, we've done coilovers and exhaust on my buddy's car, makes it even more fun. You can get them in stick shift and it's totally worth it to hold out for one. They never came in AWD but if you're crazy you can drop the AWD drivetrain into it from an S40 or V50. There are three body kit and trim variants, type 1, type 2 and R design. There was also a total facelift in 2011 but they stopped making stick shifts at the same time. Also in terms of aftermarket, this car shares suspension with the Mazda3 and Ford Focus of the same era, I've heard one of the first and best handling upgrades is to get a MS3 rear sway bar on it. If I were shopping for one I'd get the newest, lowest mile one that you can afford including budget for replacing the entire cooling system with silicone hoses and brand new plastic parts (heater hoses, expansion tank, and thermostat housing). Then replace the accessory belts no matter what (they're cheap) and be absolutely sure when the timing belt was last done. Then fix other stuff as needed. Tons more info and entertaining reading here: https://www.swedespeed.com/forums/c30-2007-2013.101/
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2022 18:57
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:There was also a total facelift in 2011 but they stopped making stick shifts at the same time. idk about the S40/V50 but you could definitely still get a C30 T5 with three pedals well into the facelift years. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Dec 25, 2022 |
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2022 19:58
|
|
|
Continuing on the thread of buyers advice... After looking some more at stuff I'm seriously considering breaking my lease on my current EV (now more expensive and annoying to run) and getting a diesel or petrol/flex fuel V70 instead. I really want a 5 cylinder though as afaik they seem very reliable and the sound (like I mentioned above) is epic. I also enjoy the ride quality and comfort. The only non negotiable must have from my wife are parking sensors and not being too old of a car. Pretty much all the V70 in the kind of price range I'd like have over 200k km (125k miles) on the odometer. Is this a huge deal? I'm in Sweden so parts are plentiful and there are tons of cars in junkyards to get parts from. I'm thinking that unless replaced, the suspension will need an overhaul at that point.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2022 21:44
|
|
|
I've had an S70, a V50 and a second-gen V70, all of which I've abused horribly, deferred all kinds of maintenance on, and generally poo poo all over because I'm a horrible person and they've taken it all with grace. The S70 was a T5, the V50 an 1.6D and the V70 a 2.5T. The V70 I didn't change a single driveline fluid on for 70k km. The 1.6D I sold with 350k km on it, I drove it for three years with two leaking injectors and a broken cooling fan. The S70 had a rear main seal that leaked like a sieve, I just drove it until the low oil pressure light started coming on in roundabouts, filled it up with a liter of Biltemas cheapest, and then repeat. For three years. The lifters were a bit noisy when I sold it but otherwise ran just fine. Oh, and it also ran with a broken wastegate hose for about a year, everytime I put the pedal down on an onramp the fuel cut would slam you into the seatbelt real good. I don't know what everyone in this forum is doing to have their Volvos be made of glass, or I'm just the luckiest Volvo owner alive. I also had a Volvo P210 (Duett) once upon a time but that died of Opel disease (rust) and the B20 (swapped, B18 original) in those things is already known to be unkillable anyway.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2022 22:09
|
|
|
Turbo Fondant posted:idk about the S40/V50 but you could definitely still get a C30 T5 with three pedals well into the facelift years. I actually questioned myself as I typed it. For sure there are no stick S or V or C70 after 2010 but it's good to hear that didn't apply to the C30.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2022 09:42
|
|
|
Thanks for the info about the C30. Bulletproof provided you keep up with the maintenance sounds really good to me. How loud is it inside, in general? I have a kind of contradictory set of wants for my new car. I don't actually need a pocket rocket, as I have motorcycles and get my thrills that way. I would be fine with the small engines the C30 came with but apparently in the USA it's only the T5. I'd prefer my car to be comfortable and quiet -- just a nice thing to cruise in along the ocean where you don't have to shout to be heard. I also want a manual transmission, though, which instantly eliminates a lot of options. And I live in San Francisco, so I want something that is small with a tight turning circle -- my current old Ford ZX2 is 14 feet long and can do a U-turn on a residential street. And finally I do want it to be a little classier than just a Honda Fit or whatever, and not as trite as a Mini. The C30 seems to check all those boxes. I know that any small car won't be quite as plush as a big land barge but I'm hoping it is nicer than your average hot hatch?
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2022 15:53
|
|
|
The C30 is a pretty cool looking car. I like the P1800 nod in the rear end. Looking at what's available, it seems like maybe a early P3 platform V70 with the 2.5 flex fuel (E85 can be gotten pretty much everywhere in Sweden and tax is cheaper) could be the best fit. There are some that have been Polestar optimized as well which gives it about 250 hp. Today we calculated that it would have been cheaper to travel in a car with 10L/100km consumtion than our EV since we had to charge at a fast charger... and we wouldn't have to spend a total of 45 minutes charging neither... MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Dec 26, 2022 |
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2022 19:59
|
|
|
The C30/S40/V50 was a cheaper car than the V70 and it shows a bit imo, the interior is a bit more boring plastic and the soundproofing isn't as good. It's been 5 years since I had the V50, but I don't remember it being offensively loud inside. My current Toyota is undoubtedly worse (since it's worse than the Ford Fiesta I had before it, and that was worse than the V50).
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2022 21:36
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:
Boy would it ever
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2022 21:38
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Boy would it ever Oops! Forgot the zero. Even still, kinda sucks that it would be cheaper and much more convinient. Winter weather makes the kw consumtion super unreliable, and that was with the A/C off and just keeping the HVAC at minimum for the windows not to fog...
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2022 21:48
|
|
|
Yeah the C30 is no Mercedes, but it's definitely a big step up in NVH/comfort over anything else like it. There's quite a bit of sound deadening compared to its platform-mates and the materials are much better than the Mazda in particular. Wait, the 2.4i trim wasn't available in the US? You sure? Kind of unfortunate, but the T5 is miles better anyway. That said you could always grab one from Montreal (or elsewhere up here in Canada but srsly, there are so loving many of them in Quebec) if you're okay with/can afford shipping or a fly&drive and you really want a slower one, the NA trim had a 5spd manual that was quite popular as well.
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2022 22:47
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Thanks for the info about the C30. Bulletproof provided you keep up with the maintenance sounds really good to me. C30s are great all around. I miss mine  Anyway my V60 T5 just declared it needs a new quart of oil less than three months after the last time I said I needed to do so. I have the 4 cylinder engine that checks itself and doesn't have a dipstick so I have no clue if it actually needs oil or if the sensor is messed up somehow. What do? Vincent Van Goatse fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Dec 27, 2022 |
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2022 18:14
|
|
|
Vincent Van Goatse posted:Anyway my V60 T5 just declared it needs a new quart of oil less than three months after the last time I said I needed to do so. I have the 4 cylinder engine that checks itself and doesn't have a dipstick so I have no clue if it actually needs oil or if the sensor is messed up somehow. What do? Without really knowing anything about that sensor/engine, I can think of a couple ways to check it out. If the warning goes away when you refill it the sensor at least does something (which is a good indication it works as it should), and you can measure how much oil comes out when you drain it to see if it's low / about right / too much.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2022 23:28
|
|
|
Boy the Canadian market for C30s is so much better than the American one. Found a manual 2.4i with 99,000 km for like 6500 CAD. Every one I can find in the USA is automatic and $15,000 or more and most of them are 200,000 km or more. What the hell. I'm tempted to look into importing one now. Except I'm from Canada originally and I loving know what a ten year old car from Ontario looks like underneath. I am pretty sure I'd rather pay 12 grand for one from California than 6 grand for a low-production car from a place that salts the roads. Also, news flash to everyone posting car ads including car dealers: an automatic with the +/- notch is not a manual transmission!! Christ
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2022 19:06
|
|
|
Yeah manumatic transmissions make searching for a 3 pedal car a total pain in the rear end. Always confirm with a picture of the pedals or shifter. Keep hunting, manuals are out there, enough that I see at least one every time I go window shopping the internet for them.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2023 22:16
|
|
|
Howdy, Volvo friends. I'm popping back into this unfamiliar forum to ask for a little advice. I've always loved Volvos, but I'm beginning to regret it. The History - As y'all may or may not recall, a while back I purchased a 2001 S40 with about 130k miles for $2k cash. I understood it would need some work, being a cheap car only meant to get me around Portland, Oregon. Our family has a main car (Hyundai '13 Tucson) that is very sound and would be used for anything important. I'm disabled, so my Volvo isn't used for a daily driver to a job. I put about a grand into to Volvo, fixing an axle and some other stuff. No problem, I expected it. It drove just fine, while not being the most luxurious car ever. It had a couple small repairs here and there, but nothing too big. But it made a lot of visits to the shop. It was due for the timing belt and water pump poo poo, which was about $1.2k. After talking to the mechanic at the dealership, which gave the engine and transmission a clean bill of health, I decided to do it. I figured I would drive it until the fucker fell apart, and the important stuff didn't have problems. It felt like I had fixed drat near every little thing I could, and the car surely would be sound for a while. I put less than 3k miles on it a year so far, it's not getting too stressed by my travel habits. Welp, after that, poo poo started going wrong. I'd have to go find the maintenance records I keep printed out, but it had some kind of bizarre gremlin with the battery that cost some money to fix. Then some other bullshit where the car alarm kept going off no matter what, to the point where it eventually had to be disconnected. Then, the brakes went out. I was sitting in a parking lot, and all of a sudden the brakes pedal shat itself and went straight to the floorboard. My brake fluid was suddenly empty, and I had to drive it home with the parking brake and not exceeding 30mph. Now, it's back at the dealer for what feels like the millionth time to figure out why my brakes suddenly died. Maybe it's nothing big, maybe it's the master cylinder, who the gently caress knows. The Request for Advice - As I mentioned, I'm disabled and do not have a job outside of the house. But I need a car to have a social life, as my other family member has a full time job and takes the main family car. This Volvo, right after I decided to do the timing belts and water pumps, is turning into a gremlin filled money pit. I won't know what's up with the brakes for a couple of days, but I'm expecting it will be something more than I want to pay. But unless it's ridiculous, I'll get them fixed just so I can sell for more than scrap. All that said, is it time to abandon this Volvo? I have enough money stashed away that I could upgrade to a "newer" car that would hopefully be less problematic. But if this one truly has low miles for being so old and a good transmission/engine, should I just stay the course? Are there Volvos in the 08'-14' range with a sub-$8k pricetage that wouldn't be a big headache to own? Like I mentioned, I accept older used cars need work. But I don't need a loving money pit. I know y'al like pictures, so here it is - 
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2023 14:03
|
|
|
Lloyd, paging Lloyd to the customer service counter.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2023 15:56
|
|
|
Regarding Volvo prices, they seem pretty high here in Sweden as well. Pretty much every V70 (P3) with the 2.5 has >200k km on it and cost between $6-12k. Even so I'm seriously considering getting if I can get out of my lease as they fit the bill. At least parts are super simple to get here. Would you guys be worried about a p3 with that kind of mileage provided that there is complete service history etc? I prefer (and miss) driving a manual, but the auto bumps the max towing capacity by 200kg to 1800kg so it's not ruled out.
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2023 14:39
|
|
|
Captain Log posted:Howdy, Volvo friends. I'm popping back into this unfamiliar forum to ask for a little advice. I've always loved Volvos, but I'm beginning to regret it. Sadly I know next to nothing about that generation and model. I do know the engine is the 4 cyl version of the whiteblock that we've all come to know and love and if you maintain the belts and coolant and oil seals they'll run forever. If you're actually going to a dealer you might save some money by going to an indy shop. They usually have better prices but not by much. But yeah these days being beholden to a mechanic is rough expense-wise. It's pretty easy to spend more than you paid for a cheap car lately. OTOH cheap cars have also become scarce. As for brake failure, it's hard to say but fluid loss is usually a rusted hard line, or failed soft line. Failed soft lines are often ones that lost a retaining clip and fell into a place that gets rubbed by the tire or a suspension part. There aren't many other components to fail, so if it's not that it's a cylinder or caliper. There's never a true end to spending on a car, but I like to believe there can be long lulls in expenses so I tend to recommend sticking it out for the long haul. You have to get the brakes fixed either way, that's one of the dealbreakers on any vehicle, so I'd keep driving it after you get it back, but if something major fails again too soon it might be time to ditch it. I've heard real good things about all the P3 generation cars being very reliable, but I've been watching prices for my nephew who has $5k saved up and there's just nothing I'd recommend to him showing up in that range. $8k is just about at the bottom of the range, you'll have to be patient for a lower mileage one to have a good price. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 09:14 on Jan 8, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2023 09:11
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:Sadly I know next to nothing about that generation and model. I do know the engine is the 4 cyl version of the whiteblock that we've all come to know and love and if you maintain the belts and coolant and oil seals they'll run forever. If you're actually going to a dealer you might save some money by going to an indy shop. They usually have better prices but not by much. But yeah these days being beholden to a mechanic is rough expense-wise. It's pretty easy to spend more than you paid for a cheap car lately. OTOH cheap cars have also become scarce. Thank you very much for taking the time for this kind response. I've also been in the Ask/Tell thread about getting a new-used car, and resoundingly told my sub-$8k budget isn't reasonable. But I've also got great advice from some people as well, so I cannot complain. GOOD NEWS!!! I found out a brake line blew. I'm not a car guy, so I'm not sure of the fine details. They replace the lines in pairs, and I got quoted $550. While that sucks, it's grossly less than I assumed I'd be paying. I'm going to try and speak directly to the mechanic when I pick it up on Tuesday, and get a better feel for if it's a rattletrap or not. Believe it or not, the dealership has been significantly cheaper than every shop that will work on a twenty year old Volvo. Sometimes to the tune of a couple hundred bucks. I also get coupons in the mail from them for the service department, so I'll probably walk with the repairs being closer to $500. A poster (Mototronic, maybe?) put it to me this way - There is maintenance and replacing consumables, which costs money but is a reasonable expenditure. Then there are repairs, like replacing a blown transmission and poo poo, which fall in the, "Should I ditch this?" column. So far, it's been a little a both. I'll keep y'all updated.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2023 13:44
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:small with a tight turning circle 
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2023 06:23
|
|
|
Kivi posted:Sure pal The internet gives two values: 17.5 feet and 19 feet. The lower value there isn't a Miata or anything but it's the same as any other hatchback these days. What's the difference between the two?
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2023 16:59
|
|
|
About a foot and a half.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2023 23:27
|
|
|
toplitzin posted:About a foot and a half. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uW47jWLMiY
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2023 01:04
|
|
|
With my mobility issues limiting my ability to perform repairs myself and living on a fixed income, I know drat well an old Volvo isn't for me. But God drat, I still maintain the best driving car I've ever owned was the '87 740 GLE Sedan I had in high school. I bring it up because I was cleaning out my watch box and found the 1999 newspaper advertisement for what became my first car. This fucker has the best steering and cornering of anything, ever.  I grew up in the American south, where having a car as a teenager was a requirement. Sadly, this Volvo threw its transmission after a couple years. But my family helped to get it replaced. After a couple of years in college, it developed a problem that got it nicknamed, "The Rolling Failure." It was an automatic, but would stall itself out for the first ten to fifteen minutes of being turned on. I had to do laps around the parking circle at my little university, with the car constantly stalling out. Once it got warmed up, it was good for the day. It got sold for next to nothing to a mechanic, who apparently fixed it with a $100 part. In college, I worked full time, but room and board ate all the money. Which meant my family got to make the decisions on car repairs, and cut corners by sending it to three or four different mechanics who had shops with names like, "Big Jim's Car Repairs and Raw Shrimp Shop!!! WE BUY GOLD!!!" Had it gone to an actual shop, they probably could have figured it out before it got sold for nothing to someone who easily fixed it. Despite its gremlins, I still miss the thing. Captain Log fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Jan 10, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2023 14:49
|
|
|
I'm looking to do the front struts on my 2004 xc70 in the next couple weeks. Any word gotcha things to keep an eye out for? Special tools in the usual volvo fashion? Planning on doing the sway bar link at the same time. Would rather not do the control arms if I don't have to but will if it makes sense. Anything else I should look at or replace while I have it up?
|
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2023 04:50
|
|
|
Struts alone are real fuckin easy. If you don't do a quick strut style complete unit you will need a spring compressor. You will also want to replace the upper spring seats. You want to remove the main strut top nuts and loosen the star nuts under them while it's still in the car for the best leverage. Put the top nuts and the large rubber washers back on finger tight just for safety as you pull the whole unit out of the car. (basically if the spring seat is trashed, the large rubber washer and top nut will be the only thing holding the spring on the strut. If the spring seat is in ok shape then the cross nut will hold everything together.) People bitch about the cross nut but I've never had trouble getting them loose with just a large channellock pliers. They do sell special cross nut spanner sockets or you can make one out of a spare large socket with a grinder. If the sway bar links are OEM you will probably need a thin bicycle style wrench to counterhold the stud while removing the nuts. Be sure to watch a youtube video so you can see the entire process. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 11:54 on Jan 28, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jan 28, 2023 11:52
|
|
|
Irritating Repair Question for my 2001 Volvo S40 - I need two people to pop the hood. When I pull the latch, the hood doesn’t pop up by itself. I have to pull the hood latch, while someone else pulls up and triggers the latch next to the grille. I want to buy a little jump starting module, because I don’t trust the car. But if I cannot pop my own hood, the module would be useless. Is that an easy fix? Or should I just pay for it next time I get the oil changed?
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2023 18:29
|
|
|
Captain Log posted:Irritating Repair Question for my 2001 Volvo S40 - You want something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Dumble-Jumper-Connect-Cables-Trucks/dp/B07LFLG99R Not the big cables but the little set that permanently attaches that you can just hook up to a jump pack? Because the answer is, of course, fix the hood latch/get the hood latch fixed. But if you don't want to do that you can permanently hook up a jump starter cable (make sure to cover the connector somehow so it doesn't get full of gunk).
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2023 21:46
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 08:00 |
|
|
Captain Log posted:Irritating Repair Question for my 2001 Volvo S40 - It's supposed to have a spring of some sort that pops it up. On the other cars of that era, it's actually a little rubber bumper that falls out so the hood stays where it is instead of popping up. On the chance that it's not a rubber piece missing, step 1 is to hope it's just sticky, which is very often the case. Try to lubricate the hood latch so that it all works properly. Have someone dribble some oil on it while you pull the release. You can also use a screwdriver to engage the release in the same slot the hood hook drops in to (so you don't have to open and close the hood over and over). See if you can make it engage and disengage better with just the screwdriver. Second choice is to ebay the hood latch mechanism and hope for one that has the correct spring part.
|
|
#
?
Feb 1, 2023 00:35
|
|