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StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I solder all my buried connections and some of the exposed ones too. My main complaint is how expensive they are. I don't expect them to last forever, I also don't expect them to fail anytime soon. I'll write back when they do, assuming the forums are around in another 20 years.

Click here for the scariest product you'll ever see

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

If you're capable of sweating pipe why would you use a sharkbite at all other than as a quick patch in an emergency?

StormDrain posted:

I don't expect them to last forever, I also don't expect them to fail anytime soon. I'll write back when they do, assuming the forums are around in another 20 years.

Obviously you don't expect them to fail anytime soon or you wouldn't be suggesting this.

If you've sweated a pipe well and wiped the flux off that's that. It's a 60+ year finished deal unless you have a serious water chemistry problem. That's not how sharkbites work.

Are your expectations of timelines different than mine? Like, do you think all that matters/live in disposable development housing? Because that would certainly explain our difference of opinion on this.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
One justifiable application I had was a spot I couldn't get flame to safely. It was in the back bottom corner of my kitchen cabinet and I am not ready to move the cabinet, but eventually I will and it'll get replaced.

The next was under a bath cabinet that I anticipate replacing in the next year. I wanted to try it versus a compression fitting. I treat all supply valves as disposable anyway, they usually fail open.

I used a ball valve in a spot for my irrigation supply from inside the house. It's above an unfinished basement with a drain, glad I did since I ended up having to cut that pipe out and replace it, I was able to pull the valve and set it again.

House's aren't permanent. Most of the plumbing homeowners touch can easily be replaced and isn't anticipated to last 60 years. People don't replace seats in faucets anymore, it's just replacing with new fixtures in 20 years or at the changes of ownership. I'd never do a whole house in sharkbites.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

StormDrain posted:

House's aren't permanent. Most of the plumbing homeowners touch can easily be replaced and isn't anticipated to last 60 years. People don't replace seats in faucets anymore, it's just replacing with new fixtures in 20 years or at the changes of ownership. I'd never do a whole house in sharkbites.

Yet water damage is the most expensive and common major loss in a home. So who can say if doing supply plumbing correctly is worth it or not?

Also, people don't replace seats anymore because modern fixtures use cartridges that are replaceable. Or they just buy a piece of poo poo from LowesDepot that they can't get a replacement cartridge for 18 months later when it fails so they just buy another fixture.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Jan 21, 2023

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



You could install a shutoff valve with compression unions.

Such as: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Keeney-Brass-1-2-in-Compression-x-1-2-in-Compression-Quarter-Turn-Angle-Valve/1000276657

Need clean, relatively square, non-kinked & non-dented ends. You have to be able to slip the compression ring over your copper line.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

I moved into a new apartment and in the shower, which has separate hot and cold taps, the cold tap is ridiculously sensitive. I never turn it more than about 15 degrees and the smallest possible movement I can make changes the water temperature dramatically. What I've taken to doing is cracking the cold open the smallest amount and then swinging the hot through like 180° to make temperature adjustments, but that's not really ideal. It's weird that this is how it behaves, because the hot and cold water pressure is not that dramatically different in the rest of the place. On the kitchen and bathroom sinks, both knobs have about equal influence on the temperature.

Is there something wrong with the shower knob? Is there something I can do to make the tap less sensitive? Like install a knob with a finer pitch thread or something?

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Sagebrush posted:

I moved into a new apartment and in the shower, which has separate hot and cold taps, the cold tap is ridiculously sensitive. I never turn it more than about 15 degrees and the smallest possible movement I can make changes the water temperature dramatically. What I've taken to doing is cracking the cold open the smallest amount and then swinging the hot through like 180° to make temperature adjustments, but that's not really ideal. It's weird that this is how it behaves, because the hot and cold water pressure is not that dramatically different in the rest of the place. On the kitchen and bathroom sinks, both knobs have about equal influence on the temperature.

Is there something wrong with the shower knob? Is there something I can do to make the tap less sensitive? Like install a knob with a finer pitch thread or something?

I'd guess an o-ring has broken in the cold side and would need to be replaced. This is firmly your landlord's problem given you're in an apartment.

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

You're supposed to flush those head-first, fyi.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
This is what happens when you don't chew before swallowing.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Crapper obstruction

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

New Season 7 Finale

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
What tool is this circled in purple that's being used to clamp down the pipe? Looks nifty



Edit: I think it's called a bench chain vise

melon cat fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Jan 28, 2023

Rufio
Feb 6, 2003

I'm smart! Not like everybody says... like dumb... I'm smart and I want respect!
Looks like a chain wrench or strap wrench

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'






Well, that's a new one.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I just finished up soldering new supply for my toilet I had to rotate 90 degrees. I moved the supply for the hall bathroom too since the access was better, it comes through the wall and not the floor now, although I bonered that one a bit and it's crooked. I lost the ambition to fix it. I'll do that tomorrow.

I had my wife take turn on the valve while I was upstairs to watch for leaks. Before she could help she had to use the toilet, I told her OK but don't flush please. Over the phone I asked her if it was silent or making noise. She said yeah a little. I started feeling every joint but didn't see any leaks, then I asked her if she flushed. The toilet was filled by then and it went quiet. Success!

And I'm minus one sharkbite in the house. Also plus one ugly hole in the floor but that's temporary.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Shifty Pony posted:





Well, that's a new one.

Huh. Never seen that before.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Looks like freeze-burst damage

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


The low where that was taken hasn't been below freezing for at least a week and a half, and in any case the frost depth there is about 3-5".

No idea what made it go, maybe the roots were involved somehow.

Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Jan 29, 2023

bred
Oct 24, 2008

Shifty Pony posted:





Well, that's a new one.

Look at this valve's huge ball.

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you
I've lived in this house for almost a year. My hot water lines have a lovely black sand beach vibe at the end of all the fixtures, which I suspect is because the tankless electric water heater (Ecosmart Model Eco 36) is swamped with sediment. Manufacturer says to flush it annually, so it's definitely overdue. It's probably been even longer.

Manufacturer says I need a 4 gallon per minute circulation pump running out of a 5 gallon bucket to do the flush. I live in the desert, have no basement, and will likely never need a pump for anything again (except maybe pool stuff?)
What pump should I buy?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

canyoneer posted:

I've lived in this house for almost a year. My hot water lines have a lovely black sand beach vibe at the end of all the fixtures, which I suspect is because the tankless electric water heater (Ecosmart Model Eco 36) is swamped with sediment. Manufacturer says to flush it annually, so it's definitely overdue. It's probably been even longer.

Manufacturer says I need a 4 gallon per minute circulation pump running out of a 5 gallon bucket to do the flush. I live in the desert, have no basement, and will likely never need a pump for anything again (except maybe pool stuff?)
What pump should I buy?

This is what I have been using for the last 3 years for flushing my tankless: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0786N4WSZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

After I'm done I let it pump through several buckets of clean water for 10+ minutes each to make sure it's actually cleaned out because otherwise I'm sure it would end up being a once shot deal that wouldn't work a year later when I take it out of storage.

That part is probably more important than exactly what pump you buy.

emocrat
Feb 28, 2007
Sidewalk Technology
Hi, last night we discovered that a drain in our basement (used for a condensate pipe) had started backing up. We shut the water down, shopvacced up everything and today had a plumber out. He did some investigation, and snaked the primary drain with a with a cutter head attachment. The clog cleared and we are back to normal for now. Some info about the situation.

Entire drain system is under slab.
House is at the top of a hill.
The clog was close to, but on the downhill side of where the main wet walls all converge to exit the home. Estimated only about 7 feet or from where he went into the system.
We have lived here 7 years, this has never happened before.
A year ago we had the entire under slab cast iron drain system relined with cipp.

I am wary of this happening again, obviously. Looking any advice that is offered, but also specifically interested in recommendations for water sensors I can put in that space. I only discovered this last night because I randomly went down there for something else. Could easily have gone through our entire night and morning with bathrooms, showers etc and dealt with tons more water than we did.
So, suggestions?

Rakeris
Jul 20, 2014

Did they run a camera down it to see what the cause was?

emocrat
Feb 28, 2007
Sidewalk Technology
No, just one and didn't have a the camera setup here. I could get it scoped, will cost a chunk. His suggestion was not to bother unless it happens again which, im iffy on but cant do anything about at this exact moment.

Pentecoastal Elites
Feb 27, 2007

emocrat posted:

No, just one and didn't have a the camera setup here. I could get it scoped, will cost a chunk. His suggestion was not to bother unless it happens again which, im iffy on but cant do anything about at this exact moment.

if you're really worried about it you can rent a drain camera for ~$200 a day at home depot

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

emocrat posted:

Hi, last night we discovered that a drain in our basement (used for a condensate pipe) had started backing up. We shut the water down, shopvacced up everything and today had a plumber out. He did some investigation, and snaked the primary drain with a with a cutter head attachment. The clog cleared and we are back to normal for now. Some info about the situation.

Entire drain system is under slab.
House is at the top of a hill.
The clog was close to, but on the downhill side of where the main wet walls all converge to exit the home. Estimated only about 7 feet or from where he went into the system.
We have lived here 7 years, this has never happened before.
A year ago we had the entire under slab cast iron drain system relined with cipp.

I am wary of this happening again, obviously. Looking any advice that is offered, but also specifically interested in recommendations for water sensors I can put in that space. I only discovered this last night because I randomly went down there for something else. Could easily have gone through our entire night and morning with bathrooms, showers etc and dealt with tons more water than we did.
So, suggestions?

Is there a warranty on the cipp? I'd give them a call and explain what happened. I'd expect they'll send someone out for free to camera it (given how much you likely paid for that!)

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Shifty Pony posted:





Well, that's a new one.

And I'm still going to say nothing of value was lost because PVC ball valves loving suck.

melon cat
Jan 21, 2010

Nap Ghost
Any cool tradesmen tips for applying PVC cement into smaller (0.5” to 1”) pipes without creating a god awful mess of drippy PVC glue? The puffball on a stick applicator that comes with PVC cements is always too big for smaller diameter pipes. And

*insert black and white infomercial transition*

there has to be a better way!!

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
Wipe most of the glue off inside the cap? I've never had an issue unless I was in a really weird position and I need to glob it on to make sure there's coverage.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



melon cat posted:

Any cool tradesmen tips for applying PVC cement into smaller (0.5” to 1”) pipes without creating a god awful mess of drippy PVC glue? The puffball on a stick applicator that comes with PVC cements is always too big for smaller diameter pipes. And

*insert black and white infomercial transition*

there has to be a better way!!

I roll the applicator around inside the neck of the can to squeegee off any excess glue. Have a rag or paper tower soaked in acetone handy to immediately wipe off excess.

Alternatively, you could use a Q-tip, I guess.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

melon cat posted:

Any cool tradesmen tips for applying PVC cement into smaller (0.5” to 1”) pipes without creating a god awful mess of drippy PVC glue? The puffball on a stick applicator that comes with PVC cements is always too big for smaller diameter pipes. And

*insert black and white infomercial transition*

there has to be a better way!!

Yeah like, let it drip off the applicator as much as you can. And follow the instructions exactly, wipe the pipe, then the fitting, then the pipe again. If the puffball is dry enough it shouldn't be too much glue.

I did like 10-15 fittings in two inch pipe this month and then one three inch fitting and was shocked at how much more surface area there was to cover.

NZAmoeba
Feb 14, 2005

It turns out it's MAN!
Hair Elf
Alright I'm stuck

I have an old bathtub faucet that's dripping, hope is this is a simple washer replacement.

I got this far into taking apart the faucet, but the last fitting seems to be almost grouted in, and I've not been able to budge it using a plumbers wrench and the amount of force I'm comfortable using





Parts removed so far:



Now, I'm wondering if I'm meant to even touch that at all. There's a panel at the back I was hoping to avoid taking apart, because that looks like it'll be a little destructive. Is the treasure I seek hidden behind?

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
You're on the right track. You just need to send it to get that nut off. I recommend a longer wrench or a cheater bar.

If the grout overflow is in the way you can chip a little away from the valve with a screwdriver if you need to.

Mine appear of a similar vintage to yours, here is what mine looked liked after removal. My valves have short stems compared to your long stems, but internally they are probably very similar.

e: There was a heavily worn black washer on top of this valve originally but I popped it off before taking the picture.

SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Feb 4, 2023

NZAmoeba
Feb 14, 2005

It turns out it's MAN!
Hair Elf
Yep, the power of unspeakable violence wins again!

Unfortunately the washer involved is far bigger than the ones I bought. So back to Home Depot tomorrow

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Sometimes heat can be helpful

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I just accidentally spilled the trap to my shower when I was removing it. I threw up a little in my mouth from the smell.

The upside of the whole thing, it came loose from the fitting so I just had to clean it up to replace the piping. No heat, no saw, no union. Just glue up.

Chas McGill
Oct 29, 2010

loves Fat Philippe
Not sure if there are any UK based folk here, but I need help identifying a mains shower that was installed back in 2013 and has no identifying features on the outside. The original installer hasn't responded to my queries trying to find out even the manufacturer. I understand I pretty much need to remove the tiles etc to replace the shower if I can't find the model.




Aware there's a very small chance of anyone knowing what this is, but I appreciate any thoughts.

I'm guessing it's unlikely to have any identifying information on the internals if it's removed?

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Chas McGill posted:

Not sure if there are any UK based folk here, but I need help identifying a mains shower that was installed back in 2013 and has no identifying features on the outside. The original installer hasn't responded to my queries trying to find out even the manufacturer. I understand I pretty much need to remove the tiles etc to replace the shower if I can't find the model.




Aware there's a very small chance of anyone knowing what this is, but I appreciate any thoughts.

I'm guessing it's unlikely to have any identifying information on the internals if it's removed?

You never said what your goal was on it, so I don't know what you're trying to do but it sure looks like this one:

https://victoriaplum.com/product/mode-harrison-square-twin-thermostatic-shower-valve

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Chas McGill
Oct 29, 2010

loves Fat Philippe

StormDrain posted:

You never said what your goal was on it, so I don't know what you're trying to do but it sure looks like this one:

https://victoriaplum.com/product/mode-harrison-square-twin-thermostatic-shower-valve

Sorry, should've said - the cartridge has failed and it needs to be replaced.

Thanks, yeah that does look very similar, though mine has very faint "OFF" and temperature markings on the plate. The arrangement and shape is reminiscent though.

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