Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Saltpowered
Apr 12, 2010

Chief Executive Officer
Awful Industries, LLC
I upgrade from the AP wet palette to one of the new redgrass ones a few months and love it. Their foam + sheets are really nice and keep paint wet for a long time. The sheets are washable reusable for a while as well.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Richter Scabies
Dec 30, 2012

Started to get re-interested in battletech and the concept of painting miniatures after being way into Mechwarrior 2/the cartoon/some minor plastech mini painting as a kid. I'm extremely thankful to youtube (and to my BIG ADULT BRAIN) for explaining/showing painting concepts I could barely comprehend as a 10 year old.

Unit colors and faction colors present a paralysis of choice so I just decided on a weird merc theme for this Cyclops:


Next to him is a nearly finished Hellbringer done up in Jade Falcon Iota Galaxy colors:


I liked how these turned out; a Longbow, Trebuchet, Axman- A little forested mountain trio, lazing about protecting their little planetary charge; the Blackjack has been stripped twice and I have no idea what to paint it as. Also trying to paint up a Nightstar in the same way as the Cyclops but I may start over for something a little simpler.


Close up of one of the first mechs I painted since re-starting; a Panther done up as a Kurita Nightstalker:



I've quickly amassed a little army and THERE'S TOO MUCH TO CHOOSE

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Saltpowered posted:

I upgrade from the AP wet palette to one of the new redgrass ones a few months and love it. Their foam + sheets are really nice and keep paint wet for a long time. The sheets are washable reusable for a while as well.

I'm using v1 painter and I'm tempted to upgrade to their v2 studio, figuring bigger = less sheets used.

The problem is then, bigger = more desk space used, and every millimeter is at a premium because I can't expand out.

The Demilich
Apr 9, 2020

The First Rites of Men Were Mortuary, the First Altars Tombs.



bird food bathtub posted:

Had something weird happen that I don't have much of an idea at all about. I put ball bearings in my dropper bottles to help the mixer do its thing. A bottle of vallejo acrylic medium I've used about half of had one of the bearings develop this huge brown booger looking thing around it and got stuck to the bottom of the dropper. I don't think it's rust, it's really not rust textured or colored. It's just a big, brown coating of some weird substance. Any idea what's going on?

It's rust.
Use glass pearls/pearl beads instead.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

I use little hunks of quartz I find in my drive way and clean up

Geisladisk posted:



I just painted eyes and they look kinda good, I'm shocked and have never been this proud of anything

Looks great! The Two Dots approach to eyes is staggeringly easy and looks good, I barely do any clean up afterwards now and it always gets the most compliments from people irl

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice

The Demilich posted:

It's rust.
Use glass pearls/pearl beads instead.

I ordered some hematite beads like someone up thread mentioned. Will take a while to cycle out all the bearings in my paints though, don't think I want to try to pull them out. Worst case I lose a few more bottles to rust. Oh well. Lesson learned.

Mistaken For Bacon
Apr 26, 2003

Concerning agitators, maybe don't combine glass ink pots, hematite beads and a vortex mixer.

Gareth Gobulcoque
Jan 10, 2008



best YouTube tutorial for high level NMM? painting my first mini in like 4 years and I don't remember what I'm doing for this part. I found plenty that are ok, but not the painting level I'm looking for i.e. too basic/ intermediate.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Richard Gray has several high-level NMM videos.

This one is the most recent.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bOGVWUEVBE

Marx Headroom
May 10, 2007

AT LAST! A show with nonono commercials!
Fallen Rib

Richter Scabies posted:

Unit colors and faction colors present a paralysis of choice so I just decided on a weird merc theme for this Cyclops:


Next to him is a nearly finished Hellbringer done up in Jade Falcon Iota Galaxy colors:


Looking good! Crazy how much a little edge highlighting and metal joints can elevate Battletech minis.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(


That's so disappointing.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
It's just a tone-deaf attempt at publicity through controversy, the more attention you give it the more it did its job.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Or it's a simple joke where replacing a letter in Sisters gives you a different word and you're overthinking it. Especially as the default argument for not having FSM is "SOB exist".

e: the first like minute of the video has him scrolling through the complaints mockingly lol c'mon.

ijyt fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Jan 31, 2023

Mirthless
Mar 27, 2011

by the sex ghost

IncredibleIgloo posted:

I have had really good success with Army Painter's agitators. I actually love army painter and all their products are great, except, uh, for the paint unfortunately. But their color metallics are a lot of fun.

Their paint is, imo, really good, but generally only for glazing

The opacity is just not there for highlighting and trad shading but when it comes to blending or building up tones through layering TAP paints are great imo

I have mostly stopped using it over higher opacity paints but I still use it pretty frequently for skin, power armor panels and other large curved surfaces where edge highlighting doesnt give good results

Mirthless
Mar 27, 2011

by the sex ghost

ijyt posted:

Or it's a simple joke where replacing a letter in Sisters gives you a different word and you're overthinking it. Especially as the default argument for not having FSM is "SOB exist".

e: the first like minute of the video has him scrolling through the complaints mockingly lol c'mon.

It's the very epitome of a harmless joke and he's absolutely right to make fun of people for being disappointed or thinking hes courting controversy imo

Mirthless fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Jan 31, 2023

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

AP paints behave like 90s Citadel paints, which were very translucent and meant for multiple layers of thin coats, so it's understandable that people who haven't been painting for 25+ years wouldn't immediately like them. More modern paint ranges are far more heavily pigmented and opaque, requiring fewer coats and are a lot easier to block in solid colors with, but need a lot more thinning and finesse to get proper layering consistency with, so you're trading off.

Tldr - AP paints are good, actually(if you use them correctly), but maybe use another range for basecoats

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I just spent too much time with too thin metallics and fighting their poor coverage last night. I want my paint to be opaque, I'll thin it down manually.

chin up everything sucks
Jan 29, 2012

Silhouette posted:

AP paints behave like 90s Citadel paints, which were very translucent and meant for multiple layers of thin coats, so it's understandable that people who haven't been painting for 25+ years wouldn't immediately like them. More modern paint ranges are far more heavily pigmented and opaque, requiring fewer coats and are a lot easier to block in solid colors with, but need a lot more thinning and finesse to get proper layering consistency with, so you're trading off.

Tldr - AP paints are good, actually(if you use them correctly), but maybe use another range for basecoats

I miss the old 90's GW paints. I could do some really cool stuff right out of the pot with the old Dark Angels Green.

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

chin up everything sucks posted:

I miss the old 90's GW paints. I could do some really cool stuff right out of the pot with the old Dark Angels Green.

Can't you still buy the old '90s GW paints? Doesn't the original supplier, Coat D'Arms, still sell them in the '90s formulas?

Wouldn't this be what you want?
https://herrickgames.com/wip/coat-darms-paint-angel-green/

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Chainclaw posted:

Can't you still buy the old '90s GW paints? Doesn't the original supplier, Coat D'Arms, still sell them in the '90s formulas?

Wouldn't this be what you want?
https://herrickgames.com/wip/coat-darms-paint-angel-green/

IIRC on the grapevine the formulation for these changed sometime around 2020? Not sure if I'm conflating that with another range though.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Could I tidy these weird little guys up more? Yes. Do I want to? No.






Three Bonepickers and a Brethren down, now to move onto the next four!

Nazzadan
Jun 22, 2016



Those look great, what's the recipe for the wrap around the handle of the last one's weapon? I like that a lot more than just the various shades of brown I've been using on mine

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Nazzadan posted:

Those look great, what's the recipe for the wrap around the handle of the last one's weapon? I like that a lot more than just the various shades of brown I've been using on mine

It's the same as all the off-white. Base Wraithbone spray, coat of Skeleton Horde contrast, then highlighting with thin coats of Wraithbone, Wraithbone + White, then pure white. Tidy up with a little Skeleton Horde where the highlights have accidentally gone into the recesses.

Major Spag
Nov 4, 2012
Xpost post-lvo post in posting:

Major Spag posted:

This was my January hobby: Display board for LVO





http://i.imgur.com/wH8LSRJ.mp4

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

chin up everything sucks posted:

I miss the old 90's GW paints. I could do some really cool stuff right out of the pot with the old Dark Angels Green.

I miss citadel foundation paints

RIP Iyanden Darksun and Mechrite Red

Commissar Canuck
Aug 5, 2008

They made fun of us! And it's Stanley Cup season!

Cross posting as well

quote:

Finally dialed in the formula for my loyalist Emperor's Children and their fancy, fancy metallic purple colour scheme I'm giving them


Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.
Oh thank god, thank god all of my octarius and Into the Dark terrain got primed and my spray can isnt finished yet. I was genuinely worried for a second there.

Quick question, is this a good alternative to use instead of ordering miniature spray primer online? I really want to save on shipping and this is the only spray paint I can find in local hardware stores that has the word 'primer' on it:-

https://www.noon.com/saudi-en/premi...MxoCHaoQAvD_BwE

https://www.saco.sa/en/All-Saco-Cat...000000000015973

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Al-Saqr posted:

Oh thank god, thank god all of my octarius and Into the Dark terrain got primed and my spray can isnt finished yet. I was genuinely worried for a second there.

Quick question, is this a good alternative to use instead of ordering miniature spray primer online? I really want to save on shipping and this is the only spray paint I can find in local hardware stores that has the word 'primer' on it:-

https://www.noon.com/saudi-en/premi...MxoCHaoQAvD_BwE

https://www.saco.sa/en/All-Saco-Cat...000000000015973

Paint+Primer tends to be a filler type of primer, great for filling gaps and smoothing out rough surfaces (like on 3 printed models) but terrible for minis.

But I believe a lot of people use rustoleum automotive primer:
https://www.noon.com/saudi-en/stops...ource=c1000087L

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.

Bucnasti posted:

Paint+Primer tends to be a filler type of primer, great for filling gaps and smoothing out rough surfaces (like on 3 printed models) but terrible for minis.

But I believe a lot of people use rustoleum automotive primer:
https://www.noon.com/saudi-en/stops...ource=c1000087L

Ok thanks for the heads up

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Speedpaint 2.0 preorder is up ($200). There's some overlap if you already have the mega set, like Slaughter Red is one dupe (though it's the new formula so :shrug: )

Mirthless
Mar 27, 2011

by the sex ghost

Bucnasti posted:

Paint+Primer tends to be a filler type of primer, great for filling gaps and smoothing out rough surfaces (like on 3 printed models) but terrible for minis.

But I believe a lot of people use rustoleum automotive primer:
https://www.noon.com/saudi-en/stops...ource=c1000087L

2nd opinion: Ace hardware and krylon p+primer is okay as long as you are using a light application

These paints are dangerous for the reasons highlighted above but work fine as long as you keep a good distance from the model and sufficiently dust on your coats. If you're just using it as a primer you don't have to worry about coverage as much so a couple quick thin layers is enough

I almost exclusively used paint + primer prior to getting my airbrush and very rarely messed up my models.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Al-Saqr posted:

Oh thank god, thank god all of my octarius and Into the Dark terrain got primed and my spray can isnt finished yet. I was genuinely worried for a second there.

Quick question, is this a good alternative to use instead of ordering miniature spray primer online? I really want to save on shipping and this is the only spray paint I can find in local hardware stores that has the word 'primer' on it:-

https://www.noon.com/saudi-en/premi...MxoCHaoQAvD_BwE

https://www.saco.sa/en/All-Saco-Cat...000000000015973

I usually use cheap car primer, black with a white zenitahl as a default, but at times when I've wanted to undercoat in specific colours (brown for a warm undertone on figures with lots of exposed skin mainly) I've used regular non-primer spray paint, and I gotta say... Regular spray paint is pretty much fine for priming, or at least the ones I've used. Primer is supposed to adhere better to the figure, but on plastic at least I honestly dont notice any difference. Metal figures it might make more of a difference, those fuckers love to dive off your desk and knock the paint off their nose/fingers/any other protruding area. So if primer is unavailable/going to be spendy + waiting for it to arrive and you are mainly working on plastics it might be worth picking up a cheap can of regular rear end spray paint and testing it on a figure. If it doesnt work for you you're only out the cost of the cheap can and if it does you know you can use that in the future.

Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


Still working on the basing, may go back for some details, but moderately pleased with these barbarians.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Owlbear Camus
Jan 3, 2013

Maybe this guy that flies is just sort of passing through, you know?



GreenBuckanneer posted:

Speedpaint 2.0 preorder is up ($200). There's some overlap if you already have the mega set, like Slaughter Red is one dupe (though it's the new formula so :shrug: )

That feels pretty spendy but it looks like it is at least twice as much paint variety as 1.0. I've dove headfirst getting the whole line of contrasts then speed 1.0, so I'll pick these up a few at a time I think.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Owlbear Camus posted:

That feels pretty spendy but it looks like it is at least twice as much paint variety as 1.0. I've dove headfirst getting the whole line of contrasts then speed 1.0, so I'll pick these up a few at a time I think.

Right now I'm only interested in the metallic contrasts so I'll abstain myself until then

welcome 2 Clown Town
Aug 1, 2006

GALAXY'S #2 SCULL*!

*scrunt skull
Just started painting minis again for the first time in over 20 years. Did the marines from the space marine adventures box and the two mechs from the battletech starter box. I feel like I did OK, but I still have a long way to go in thinning, highlighting, and other details.


Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


Really like those mechs. Good work on the details and your bases look great.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
I hate to ask this while I can't get a decent white balance in my camera, but I'm hoping to turn this into something approximating a display piece. If y'all could critique the poo poo out of this, I'd appreciate it.

Images one and two are pretty accurate for colors, three and four are blown out like crazy.






No varnishes yet so I can still make corrections.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



grassy gnoll posted:

I hate to ask this while I can't get a decent white balance in my camera, but I'm hoping to turn this into something approximating a display piece. If y'all could critique the poo poo out of this, I'd appreciate it.
First off I should say that I like what you've done with this rat! I am assuming you are going for a more sketching/brush stroke style given everything I see here, which is something I'm looking to play with more as it definitely feels faster than perfectly smooth glaze transitions on everything and everywhere - and it still looks great in the end. If you were aiming for smooth glaze transitions then I guess go back and make everything much smoother with many more glaze layers.

In no particular order other than what I see first:
1. Fix up your base rim.
2. Consider building up the base more with some sort of swampy sewer water mess, right now your rat is in a sewer that's got bone dry dirt in it.
3. I like the rusty blade, I might recommend putting some of the same metallics for the pommel end on the blade itself, as some scratches and spots where the use of the blade has caused the rust to fall/scrape off (as the blade is withdrawn scraping against a femur or drug along a wall I dunno).
4. The dark gray pants look to have highlighting but not much in the way of darker shadows, can you get some more tonal variation in the pants?
5. It's a bit hard to tell from the photos but the yellow cloak could maybe do with some more shading too. Texture work (fabric lines) and/or some work to dirty up the edges of the cloak would be nice IMO. That yellow cloak is dragging through a sewer but the bottom half looks as clean as the top half. Poop on it, but with paint.

As I was typing this up I remembered my golden demon compendium had a similar piece, dug it out and it's this one (twitter post versus me taking pictures of my book - although the book does have a nice writeup): https://twitter.com/maxfaleij/status/898933665614315521

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

I wanted to finish these tonight but there's still so much to go, so I'm going to have to wrap these up tomorrow.



I'm sort of angry how much I like the Sisters of Battle models, because I don't need another 40k army.

Also it's such a huge contrast in model quality from the Battletech stuff I just finished. The modern Warhammer stuff just blows away the modern Battletech stuff.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply