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Some Guy From NY
Dec 11, 2007

PerniciousKnid posted:

The damage was done by the neighbor a long time ago, before I owned the house, and it was approved by the city.

The district hasn't been helpful in prior conversations (they haven't even cleared the debris from their last project from in front of my house), but asking them to recommend a contractor isn't a bad idea, although I don't have high hopes.

I doubt they will be able to recommend you a contractor, that sounds like a conflict of interest to me.

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H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
That is something best done in person, or over the phone as a distant second. The discussion is around which contractors they see in their office and have a good relationship with the city. You can also pull permits for houses. That have had massive work done and look for trends. You're not looking for a contractor recommendation, your building a relationship.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


PerniciousKnid posted:

The damage was done by the neighbor a long time ago, before I owned the house, and it was approved by the city.

The district hasn't been helpful in prior conversations (they haven't even cleared the debris from their last project from in front of my house), but asking them to recommend a contractor isn't a bad idea, although I don't have high hopes.
If you think the city is being negligent in their handling of the waterway (or indeed permitting whatever your neighbor did that aggravated the situation) and it's damaging your property (which it sounds like may be at least partly the case), consulting with a good real estate attorney may be the most helpful and informative thing you can do. Municipalities don't like angry lawyer letters any more than anyone else and it's one way to poke them into doing something.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words

H110Hawk posted:

That is something best done in person, or over the phone as a distant second. The discussion is around which contractors they see in their office and have a good relationship with the city. You can also pull permits for houses. That have had massive work done and look for trends. You're not looking for a contractor recommendation, your building a relationship.
Yeah it's this. Wetlands commission officers will have open office hours. You want to go to one and be super friendly and just lay out your problem. Most of the time, they only interact with people after they've hosed up and caused them a big headache. They're usually happy to cooperate with someone who comes asking questions in advance. They may not be able to lay out an exact plan, but something like "well I can't tell you exactly what to do, but typically in this situation I might see XYZ . . . I think so-and-so does a lot of that. Online it might say ABC, but that won't work in your specific case"

PerniciousKnid
Sep 13, 2006
Thanks for all the ideas. The worst part about this kind of thing is that it's somewhat unique, so it's not like you can just Google what to do.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Energy chat as I just got my bill. $0.3297/kwh for 12/21/2022 to 1/22/2023. SCE 100% green energy, 610kwh with 210kwh of that in the tier 2 range which is a 18¢ hike over "baseline."

:negative:

Corla Plankun
May 8, 2007

improve the lives of everyone
Did the dude with medium-sized-mall tier power usage ever get back to the thread about how they managed to waste so much energy every month? I am dying to know.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Regarding my Bosch washing machine issue: Theres an appliance repair business a couple blocks from me with very good reviews, they also mention on their website specifically that they install in-sink garbage disposal units which is something I've wanted. It would be going into one side of a double sink where there is also a dishwasher drain so it's a bit more complicated than I feel up for doing myself, my question is whether that's something best done by an actual plumber or is this in the wheelhouse of general appliance repair/installation people? Thanks.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

VelociBacon posted:

Regarding my Bosch washing machine issue: Theres an appliance repair business a couple blocks from me with very good reviews, they also mention on their website specifically that they install in-sink garbage disposal units which is something I've wanted. It would be going into one side of a double sink where there is also a dishwasher drain so it's a bit more complicated than I feel up for doing myself, my question is whether that's something best done by an actual plumber or is this in the wheelhouse of general appliance repair/installation people? Thanks.
It depends entirely on the competence of the folks involved, but an appliance installer should be able to handle that.

The most professional, knowledgeable tradesman I ever ran into on a job site was an appliance installer. That man knew his job so drat well that more than a decade later, he's still my first thought when I think about people who are just complete experts at whatever they happen to do. Sometimes that expertise is in a strange field, but it's still really impressive to me to see.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Slugworth posted:

It depends entirely on the competence of the folks involved, but an appliance installer should be able to handle that.

The most professional, knowledgeable tradesman I ever ran into on a job site was an appliance installer. That man knew his job so drat well that more than a decade later, he's still my first thought when I think about people who are just complete experts at whatever they happen to do. Sometimes that expertise is in a strange field, but it's still really impressive to me to see.

Thanks, I'll ask them about it.

EPICAC
Mar 23, 2001

Does anyone have any recommendations for carpet shampooers? Ease of use on stairs a plus.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




I have a Bissel Pet Pro or something like that and I'm happy with it. Very easy to take apart and clean.

Whatever you get, make sure the scrub brushes are belt-driven. I believe my previous carpet cleaner was a Hoover. It used the vacuum to spin an impeller which, in turn, spun the brushes. It sucked. It sucked so bad that I eventually took it completely apart, sawed the big pieces into little pieces, then disposed of it a few pieces at a time each garbage day.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

VelociBacon posted:

Sorry I'm not sure if this is a good thread for appliances or not but my Bosch front loading washer is making a wild buzzing sound any time the drum is rotated (by hand even). I checked as best I can to see if there was anything between the tub and the seal and couldn't find anything. Any good way of checking this that I'm not doing? Anything else to check? It's not the drain pump which is working fine, I know there's a little door down there and I did open it up, nothing really down there beyond some hair. Super confused.

e: Videos with sound:

https://imgur.com/a/CskFuK9

So I have a tech coming today to take a look at it. I pulled the back cover off the washer today to take a look and hopefully find something obvious, it looks pretty new:



however I noted the motor windings maybe had some dark residue and when I wiped them I did get some black stuff off that I'm guessing is soot or something like that from a partially burnt out motor? Yes I disconnected the machine prior to doing so.



Does that sound about right? New high-pitched whine when the drum is spinning and an audible buzzing sorta sound when I turn the drum by hand (see my previous posts for videos with sound). I'm guessing if the brushes in the motor failed that it would just be down on power and I wouldn't see that blackening.

I think you can even see it on the ?insulators or whatever the white things are (ceramic?):



Basically I'd just like to hear from someone else that motors aren't supposed to have ?soot on them and yes this motor is probably failing.

e: ordered a new motor, if the tech thinks it's something else and they fix that other thing I get free 30 day returns on the motor. I don't want to pay a markup on the motor from the tech thanks.

VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Jan 30, 2023

Pentecoastal Elites
Feb 27, 2007

having spent the entire weekend running EMT through the basement I have developed a profound respect for the guys who do this for a living. God drat what a bear of a job. Hard work at high precision.

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

PainterofCrap posted:

BonoMan posted:

.... mushroomed?
Kept in the dark and fed bullshit

lol

kreeningsons
Jan 2, 2007

any recommendations for natural linoleum flooring? I see marmoleum online, but not much else.

carpet and pergo floor in the basement needs replacing and i'm a sucker for old/vintage things so my first thought is linoleum. people rave about the stuff. uses for the space are a home theater (with area rug), laundry room, bathroom, and combined light workshop/exercise room/storage.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


VelociBacon posted:

So I have a tech coming today to take a look at it. I pulled the back cover off the washer today to take a look and hopefully find something obvious, it looks pretty new:



however I noted the motor windings maybe had some dark residue and when I wiped them I did get some black stuff off that I'm guessing is soot or something like that from a partially burnt out motor? Yes I disconnected the machine prior to doing so.



Does that sound about right? New high-pitched whine when the drum is spinning and an audible buzzing sorta sound when I turn the drum by hand (see my previous posts for videos with sound). I'm guessing if the brushes in the motor failed that it would just be down on power and I wouldn't see that blackening.

I think you can even see it on the ?insulators or whatever the white things are (ceramic?):



Basically I'd just like to hear from someone else that motors aren't supposed to have ?soot on them and yes this motor is probably failing.

e: ordered a new motor, if the tech thinks it's something else and they fix that other thing I get free 30 day returns on the motor. I don't want to pay a markup on the motor from the tech thanks.
Sounds like a shot or soon to be shot bearing, either in the motor or elsewhere. Can you pull the motor easily? I don't know what kind of motor is in a washing machine-AC induction motors don't have brushes and are dead simple and usually not terribly expensive to repair, but no idea what a new one costs. If you can pull the motor or remove that belt you should be better able to isolate where the noise is coming from-bearing in the motor, bearing in the washing machine drum, neither and it's something funky with the belt etc.

But really if you have a tech coming just let them figure it out.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Very sorry for monopolizing the thread for the last few days. This is stressful and I really appreciate everyone's advice.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Sounds like a shot or soon to be shot bearing, either in the motor or elsewhere. Can you pull the motor easily? I don't know what kind of motor is in a washing machine-AC induction motors don't have brushes and are dead simple and usually not terribly expensive to repair, but no idea what a new one costs. If you can pull the motor or remove that belt you should be better able to isolate where the noise is coming from-bearing in the motor, bearing in the washing machine drum, neither and it's something funky with the belt etc.

But really if you have a tech coming just let them figure it out.

Alright so bit of an update.

Tech came, seemed like a nice guy, he was thinking it was actually the motor brushes. He wanted to charge $280 to change the brushes - plus whatever for the brushes themselves. He claimed it would take an hour to change them and he had to take the motor home to change them because it is easier there on his bench. I was surprised and indicated to him that the brushes are mounted on the outside of the motor and shouldn't really take that long to change, to which he replied that he has big fingers so it's hard to do (?????). He also says that after the repair it might make the same sound for a year (????).

I ended up suggesting that we pull the motor so we could easily just look at the brushes, so we did that and the brushes (to me) seem like they've got lots of life left as far as the length goes. He tries to tell me that because, with brushes installed, when you look straight down at the commutator that one was longer than the other so they're clearly bad... I told him he's just seeing the end of them coming out of their housings so you can't even see the whole length of them, one looks bigger because they aren't mounted exactly opposite of each other but rather at an angle so one is slightly on the other side of the commutator . I get the impression from his response that he knows this also.

Anyways I sent him on his way, he's going to call tomorrow to tell me when he might be able to get the parts in but honestly I'm not using this guy. I paid him the diagnostics fee and honestly having him remove the motor and all that I'm fine with paying $100 CAD for that.

So now the motor is out - the drum is completely silent when spinning and spins freely for a very long time. Of course there's no load on the bearing like normal with a belt on everything but ehhh it never really sounded like a bearing to me. Spinning the motor by hand it spins freely and there's no real unexpected feeling or sound. No play in any dimension but yeah not really putting load on it.

Here's the brushes, anything look unusual to anyone? They seem to be about 2/3 new length. When I pulled them out there was certainly more powdered carbon than I would expect. Maybe from overloading?

Side A:







Side B:







Am I insane for thinking that there's no way brushes against a commutator would make a sound with the machine off spinning it by hand? I plan to reassemble everything with the brushes out and will spin the drum by hand to see if the sound comes back or whatever.

To answer the question about the motor, I had already ordered it because I can return it for free and I really wanted it here. It was about $300 CAD ($220 USD) which seems very reasonable. It comes in 3-5 days.

e: This youtube video is the exact brushes in the exact motor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_r8d93xPYw and it takes the dude 22 seconds to change one side lmao

VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Jan 31, 2023

korora
Sep 3, 2011
Surely the black powder is carbon that’s been worn off the brushes?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

korora posted:

Surely the black powder is carbon that’s been worn off the brushes?

It definitely is, I just don't know how much is 'normal'. It has to go somewhere etc.

slurm
Jul 28, 2022

by Hand Knit
The motor looks physically fine, but the bearing can be bad and not show up except under load. Is the pulley/belt absolutely clean?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

VelociBacon posted:

Very sorry for monopolizing the thread for the last few days. This is stressful and I really appreciate everyone's advice.

It's what the thread is for and now you understand why this thread is the right place and most people you can hire to be "experts" are just idiots with toolboxes.

It's not the brushes. Just replace the motor. It has a bad bearing. You've done everything that needs doing to diagnose this to a 99% certainty of that. Forget about the brushes. And if you can't just buy a set, put them in (because they are cheap and easy to do) listen to it making the same noise and order the motor.

Even if you're wrong this is still gonna be cheaper than letting that idiot throw parts at it. I'd rather spend my own time and money figuring out how to do things like this than let Gary Jr. into my house to gently caress things up and charge me for the privilege. It typically works out better, faster and cheaper.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 14:49 on Jan 31, 2023

slurm
Jul 28, 2022

by Hand Knit
I've got three rooms the last guy never rewired, 1960s area of the house, how do I go about investigating for asbestos because this would be a lot easier with the drywall out for several reasons.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012



Your brushes are fine. We run them in an industrial application and they get right down to the barest of nubs. There's carbon and gunk all over everything and it has no impact on performance.

The front bearing of your motor is supporting all of the tension from that belt and is a lovely design. The tighter the belt, the more tension on the front of that motor which will 100% lead to premature bearing failure. It's a design issue that is minimizing production cost at the expense of life.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


slurm posted:

I've got three rooms the last guy never rewired, 1960s area of the house, how do I go about investigating for asbestos because this would be a lot easier with the drywall out for several reasons.

I dropped one of these in the mail just last night with a piece of my wall: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008J3ZK8M Price includes a shipping label and it is supposed to have a 5-day turnaround time. You could probably get quicker results if you have a lab near you but it will likely be more expensive (I had some old mastic done locally and it was $100, and positive for asbestos!).

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Thanks everyone. The new motor I ordered should be here in a few days anyways. Will let you all know how that goes.

Poopelyse
Jan 22, 2011

by Fluffdaddy

Sirotan posted:

I dropped one of these in the mail just last night with a piece of my wall: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008J3ZK8M Price includes a shipping label and it is supposed to have a 5-day turnaround time. You could probably get quicker results if you have a lab near you but it will likely be more expensive (I had some old mastic done locally and it was $100, and positive for asbestos!).

Out of curiosity, what did you send in to be tested? I think I'm going to buy a kit to test the popcorn ceiling and loose insulation in the attic

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Poopelyse posted:

Out of curiosity, what did you send in to be tested? I think I'm going to buy a kit to test the popcorn ceiling and loose insulation in the attic

My walls and ceiling are all covered in rock lath (gypsum board with a plaster coat on top), installed in 1941. I'm going to be removing a bunch of it during my kitchen remodel so I cut a square of it out and tossed it in the bag. I've read that certain plaster applications around that time period could contain asbestos, seems like a low chance but better to know than just assume.

I am already going to have a crew in to remove the kitchen flooring as the mastic and sheet linoleum has a 10% and 5% asbestos content. It will really suck if the walls do too. Of course I've already spent plenty of time patching and sanding them in other parts of the house, welp.

slurm
Jul 28, 2022

by Hand Knit
Room sized asbestos remediation is six figures right, ie "learn to enjoy your room as is"

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


slurm posted:

Room sized asbestos remediation is six figures right, ie "learn to enjoy your room as is"

My mid-2021 phone call ballpark quote from a local company to remove all the flooring in my kitchen and side entry was $2k-3k. Ofc it's only about 100sqft. I assume if the walls need to go too it's not necessarily doubling or tripling the amount since probably most of the labor is just setting up the containment. I could also be totally wrong considering I haven't had anyone out in person to give me a quote. Will likely be scheduling that next week.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

So just cleaned the brushes up a bit with some paper towel and cleaned their channels with Q-tips, noticed that on one side the brush really didn't want to slide very easily compared to the other side. There's a prong on one side that applies a tiny amount of pressure to the brush to stop it from bouncing around (I would think), I very carefully just adjusted it's tension on the brush until the friction matched that of the other brush. I wonder if maybe the brush wasn't contacting the commutator appropriately because it was partially seized in it's channel.

Put everything back together and doing a test load of laundry now. I'm so glad I work shift work and this can be something I tackle over multiple days.

emocrat
Feb 28, 2007
Sidewalk Technology

slurm posted:

Room sized asbestos remediation is six figures right, ie "learn to enjoy your room as is"

I had 400 sqf of asbestos tile with asbestos mastic removed by a remediation company 1 year ago for 3500$ all in. Central Virginia area.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

??????

Only registered members can see post attachments!

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Asbestos is a job setup cost per room that needs to be contained, plus a cost for what amounts to dimensional weight of the material removed, plus any "this poo poo was hard to get up" surcharge or small job surcharge. Overall it's actually pretty easy to do, just not something you're going to DIY legally. Enough plastic to make a room negative pressure through a HEPA filter air mover, a place to get in/out of your tyvek suit and respirator, and then you go to loving town double bagging everything in the special asbestos labeled trash bags. (It's just a specific strength trash bag that says danger: asbestos on it more or less.) Suck up any dust you generate into a hepa vac, clean the room with a mop, and you're done. It's very low skill labor beyond setting up the initial containment.

Once it's in the bags it's no more dangerous than normal construction debris. We pile it up in special section of landfills and call it a day more or less. Apparently you have to wet it down. If it's non-friable (Friable means "can be broken down to a powder with your bare hands") it's not really all that dangerous.

I just double checked some of this stuff and even in California it's not that bad. Some permitting and landfills will charge you a bit more per ton, but overall you bag it, label it, and send it.
https://dtsc.ca.gov/managing-asbestos-waste-fact-sheet/

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

Open concept microwave hole?

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

That's some... half-assed work on the cabinet doors. Hinges are not aligned anywhere, many of the doors aren't level. Painting them the same color would probably make that less noticeable...

NomNomNom posted:

Open concept microwave hole?

Wide format oven maybe? Someone tried to install an OTR microwave in a place that should have been a wide vent hood?

Eason the Fifth
Apr 9, 2020
Update on the tree saga:

Adjustor came out, I walked her through the damage. A couple days later she sent an estimate of repairs, noting, "Please see our enclosed estimate of repairs for the damages at your property. The charge for temporary tarping will be handled by [insurance company] to the contractor directly. Please provide a copy of your estimate to your contractor of choice. Should your contractor’s estimate come in higher, please submit it to me for review. Once repairs are complete, please submit your contractor’s final invoice and proof of payment for review of the recoverable depreciation."

The estimate states:

quote:

Please be advised that in accordance with your policy replacement cost provisions, your building claim has been settled on actual
cash value basis pending completion repairs and/or replacement of the damaged portions of the building. In accordance with
your policy conditions, recoverable depreciation in the amount of $3,469.21 has been applied to the building claim representing
the difference between the replacement cost of $22,317.23 and the actual cash value of $18,848.02. The ACV is before the
deductible of $2,500.00. In accordance with the aforementioned replacement cost Loss Settlement provisions of your policy, you
have 730 days from the date of loss to repair or replace the damaged building and to make a replacement cost claim under the
policy. The policy states that we will pay no more than the actual cash value of the damage unless actual repair or replacement is
completed and the policy states we will pay the least of the following amounts:

The limit of liability under this policy that applies to the building.
The replacement cost of the part of the building damaged for like construction and use on the same premises; or
The necessary amount actually spent to repair or replace the damaged building.

Therefore, in order to make replacement cost claim, you must allow us to re-inspect the building to confirm that repair or
replacement of the loss and damage has been completed and you must supply us with cancelled checks, credit card receipts used
to pay for repair and/or replacement the damaged building. All documents must be original. Photocopies will not be accepted.
Cash transactions must be verifiable by a cash register receipt.

So, a handful questions about this if any knowledgeable folks have answers:

1) Is the process for finding a contractor about the same as usual? Call around to a few different contractors, ask "Hey, so I had a tree fall on my house and have an estimate from my insurance company for repairs, would you be willing to take this on?"

2) There is roof/fascia/soffit damage, siding damage, and the bulkhead down into my crawlspace needs replaced. If the repairs involve two different contractors (e.g., one for the roof and the other for the siding), I'd imagine I just run that by my adjustor, right?

3) Will I get a bill for the deductible, or does that come out of the insurance payment?

4) I don't quite follow the idea of "recoverable depreciation" -- is that basically what the repairs add to the value of the house?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
You more or less got it. Keep in constant contact with your adjuster, people who do this work for insurance payouts understand the process and will work with you. Any amount you authorize above the current amount the adjuster approved is your problem.

I have an idea of recoverable depreciation but I am hoping PainterofCrap will weigh in, otherwise ask your adjuster.

The deductible will come off the first check they send you. So you incurred $20k of repairs, we subtracted your deductible from that and are sending you a check for $17,500.

Edit: Make sure your contractors know how to submit supplements to the estimate for hidden damage. "I ripped off the busted siding and some of the load bearing studs were snapped, I need to put in some temp supports then R&R the studs. That's another $1,000." Your adjuster looks at it, hopefully agrees, and approves the extra $1,000 in payment to do that work.

H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Feb 1, 2023

Phil Moscowitz
Feb 19, 2007

If blood be the price of admiralty,
Lord God, we ha' paid in full!
There are various kinds of property policies but typically (as yours) the policy will only cover actual cash value (ACV) unless you actually perform the repairs. ACV is calculated by the insurance company as the value of the property depreciated over its lifetime. For example, if you put on a new roof 5 years ago, and it has a 20 year projected life, they will depreciate it 25%. If the replacement cost (RCV) for the roof is $20,000, they will pay you $15,000 and withhold the $5,000 "recoverable depreciation" unless and until you make repairs.

Once you make the repair and prove to their satisfaction that you did so, they will release the recoverable depreciation to you.

Your deductible will be just that---deducted from your claim. So if you have a $2,500 deductible, they will take your claim, depreciate it to ACV, deduct the $2,500 from that amount, and pay you what's left.

On the other stuff you have it right.

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slurm
Jul 28, 2022

by Hand Knit

Sirotan posted:

I dropped one of these in the mail just last night with a piece of my wall: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008J3ZK8M Price includes a shipping label and it is supposed to have a 5-day turnaround time. You could probably get quicker results if you have a lab near you but it will likely be more expensive (I had some old mastic done locally and it was $100, and positive for asbestos!).

Thanks, I ordered a few of these to do some drywall mud

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