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wesleywillis posted:Another thing you can try is remove the whole caliper mount bracket with the caliper. Then you can move it to whatever position you need to swing the caliper out of the way enough to remove it and change the pads etc. I'm actually going to try that tomorrow, because I'm a dumbass and forgot about having to change the rotors too Here's hoping THOSE bolts aren't seized If it gives me a good angle I'll whip out the Dremel
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Feb 6, 2023 00:20
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You can unbolt the flex line from the suspension - that might give enough slack to swing it out. But yeah, otherwise I'd just be unbolting the entire bracket and leaving that bolt for next time. The caliper bracket bolts are normally very tight - I usually use an impact to get them off, or if I don't have enough room, a ratchet, good socket, and I'll take a hammer to the end of the ratchet. Usually breaks them loose.... if the ratchet doesn't break.
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Feb 6, 2023 00:38
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^^^ worst case pull the whole assembly. Replace the whole thing too and bleed the brakes is the final option.
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Feb 6, 2023 02:51
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Adult Sword Owner posted:It screws into the caliper pin actually, this is what I'm trying to accomplish. Unfortunately while the top is totally fine, the brake line is too short and i cant swing it downwards instead of upwards. I've never worked on a '13 Fit, but I have a horrible sinking feeling looking at that wheel flange and rotor hat. Are those captive rotors? Edit: nope, that extra step in the rotor hat was throwing me off, they're regular old rotors. Carry on. kastein fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Feb 6, 2023 |
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Feb 6, 2023 04:58
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Also, turn the steering wheel to the right so you get better angles to work on it. V: Missed that, I shouldn't post right after waking up. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 08:23 on Feb 6, 2023 |
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Feb 6, 2023 06:26
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Adult Sword Owner posted:edit: I'd be more into the idea of cutting into the bolt head in whatever way, but its just jacked up in my driveway and I can't get a good angle on it for that. I guess I need to turn the car on and the power steering will let me turn them all the way? If both front wheels are off the ground you don't even need the engine running, you just need to turn the key in the ignition far enough to get the column to unlock and then crank it over whichever way gets you more room to work. If you're doing this with only the one corner lifted, I'd jack the other front wheel up first and get the whole front on jackstands.
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Feb 6, 2023 06:53
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Just remember to turn the key back off after doing that unless you enjoy jump starting your car. I have made this mistake an embarrassing number of times.
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Feb 6, 2023 08:10
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honda whisperer posted:^^^ worst case pull the whole assembly. Replace the whole thing too and bleed the brakes is the final option. Yeah, this is honestly what I'd do at this point. I suppose it depends on how much other stuff you have and how much experience you have and how much money and all those sorts of things. Looks like a new one is $75. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,2013,fit,1.5l+l4,3015271,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper,1704 And then you can just undo the brakes line, pop it off, send this poo poo back for the core charge and let them deal with it. Alternatively, you can take the caliper off (unless I'm misunderstanding in which case, sorry) to work on all this on a bench with a vise if you have that and that could be better. But for me, for $75, not having to deal with hours of nonsense would be worth it. I would also only realize this after dealing with all the nonsense but because it is someone else I can recognize this ahead of time and share the wisdom.
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Feb 6, 2023 17:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:If both front wheels are off the ground you don't even need the engine running, you just need to turn the key in the ignition far enough to get the column to unlock and then crank it over whichever way gets you more room to work. That's what I thought, and yeh both sides are up on stands kastein posted:Just remember to turn the key back off after doing that unless you enjoy jump starting your car. Joke's on you, its already dead because it got cold
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Feb 6, 2023 22:28
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2009 Corolla, 2.4l engine, manual trans. Several years ago I replaced the struts, springs etc with new stuff. I wanted KYB struts as they were the OEM poo poo and I wanted OEM poo poo. Unfortunately, there did not seem to be available at the time (and still aren't apparently) KYB quick struts. So I had to buy all the individual components and put it all together with spring compressors which was sketchy as hell but I did it and everything worked the way it was supposed to. I want to avoid that this time so I've been trying to cross reference part numbers and see if I can use quick struts from a Corolla S on my XRS model. So far I have found: Rear springs are the same. Or at least, the Moog part numbers are the same for the 1.8l and 2.4l models. If I had to guess, I'd say that they are the same from other manufacturers as well. According to the KYB website, the rear struts are different part numbers. Rock auto also lists them as different also. According to both KYB and Rock auto, The front struts are the same part number between the XRS and S models. On the Moog website, the S model front springs are a different part number from the XRS model. So: different struts on the rear, but the same springs. On the front, different springs but the same struts. For the front, I guess I can see why there are different springs. Different engines, one heavier than the other. But why the poo poo would there be different struts (but the same springs) in the rear? They both have a twist beam rear axle. Fake edit: The rear twist beam axles are different. Looks like I'm not going to get KYB quick struts. I guess my options currently are FCS, Monroe, and Gabriel. Anyone have experience with any of these? I've always said that Monroe products are the parts that you put on your car if you're about to sell it and want to advertise that it has "New (whatever)". But maybe they're not that bad anymore. The others I've never really heard anything about them. Good or bad. The car will be 15 years old in September and I split driving duties between it and another vehicle, so its not getting as much mileage as it used to but at the present time I'm palnning on keeping it for the foreseeable future so I want to use decent quality parts on it. TL;DR - Are Gabriel, Monroe, or FCS quick struts good or bad?
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Feb 7, 2023 01:16
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Honda brake issues in this thread have escaped to my son's 01 Accord. He sustained catastrophic brake loss when one of the lines from the ABS block to the proportioning valve (for the rear brakes) blew out due to rust. Replacement set of SS lines came in today. Being Good Dad, I was out replacing the two nasty lines between the ABS and the PV. So I'm doing the very last line, threading it into the ABS block & it would not thread. Because there are no threads. Because they left with the old fitting, which did not want to part ways - I had to use a stripped-head socket to get it out. Completely smooth. gently caress. A new ABS block is over $1500. I was going to try & heli-coil it but it seems like a failure-prone thing, so I ordered one on eBay for $110.00. I could not find one with the exact part number that's on this one, so did the best I could to match it to what he has: 2-door, 2.3L, 5-speed. What are the odds that the ECU will pitch a fit? I figure in the worst case, I may be able to switch out the module off of the block since it's fine, it's the dumb aluminum block part that failed. Also hoping that the car is so old that the ECU is not that sophisticated...after all, we swapped in a JDM engine for the CA-emissions-compliant POS greenhead that was in it two years ago, and managed to persuade the ECU that the greenhead is still there. I hope so, because the inspection just expired...
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Feb 7, 2023 01:20
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my wife knows how to drive, but she doesn't know how to park, and I've been quite unsuccessful in trying to teach her. I'd like to ask if anyone has a video or a post that they could recommend I send to her that she might be able to learn from.
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Feb 7, 2023 09:52
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gradenko_2000 posted:my wife knows how to drive, but she doesn't know how to park, and I've been quite unsuccessful in trying to teach her. I'd like to ask if anyone has a video or a post that they could recommend I send to her that she might be able to learn from. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtcYEMTLZRw
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Feb 7, 2023 10:12
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gradenko_2000 posted:my wife knows how to drive, but she doesn't know how to park, and I've been quite unsuccessful in trying to teach her. I'd like to ask if anyone has a video or a post that they could recommend I send to her that she might be able to learn from. Empty parking lot and trial and error basically, if she wants to learn she'll learn in time. Alternatively I did 'young drivers' driver training when I was learning to drive and I remember a lot of the stuff was about parking so maybe a driving school would be helpful!
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Feb 7, 2023 10:33
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BMW and a couple others by now I'm sure have top-down parking view which also shows the future trajectory of the car based on steering input I never had much of an issue parallel parking but for a new driver it might be useful to do a test drive in a BMW and just use it to test parking for a while. That top down view with live updates in real time is something else Best advice I ever got was that the rear curb side wheel is the pivot point for the car, and always crank the wheel all the way over to start so you have repeatable, consistent results - you can always straighten out the wheel later. If you do half a turn one time and then most of a turn the next it's hard to learn from your mistakes
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Feb 7, 2023 11:04
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it's not even parallel parking (though that video was illustrative), it's just the basic reversing into a parking spot that I'd like to get her help withHadlock posted:Best advice I ever got was that the rear curb side wheel is the pivot point for the car, and always crank the wheel all the way over to start so you have repeatable, consistent results - you can always straighten out the wheel later. If you do half a turn one time and then most of a turn the next it's hard to learn from your mistakes also noted
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Feb 7, 2023 11:24
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gradenko_2000 posted:it's not even parallel parking (though that video was illustrative), it's just the basic reversing into a parking spot that I'd like to get her help with Go to an empty parking lot and have her just back up. If the parking spots line up even better, get her to back up while keeping the car in between the lines. Also, Tilt the sideview mirrors down so you can see the lines.
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Feb 7, 2023 18:19
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PainterofCrap posted:What are the odds that the ECU will pitch a fit? I figure in the worst case, I may be able to switch out the module off of the block since it's fine, it's the dumb aluminum block part that failed. The only sophisticated part of that ECU is the immobilizer - the ECU itself won't care.
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Feb 7, 2023 18:28
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gradenko_2000 posted:it's not even parallel parking (though that video was illustrative), it's just the basic reversing into a parking spot that I'd like to get her help with I pretty recently taught my gf to drive, including parking. She grew up with easy access to mass transit so had not had to drive before. The easiest thing I found was just to find a big empty parking lot and have her do her thing, it eventually clicked. I also didn’t give instructions unless 100% necessary, that really helped with not overwhelming her.
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Feb 7, 2023 21:07
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It's a geometry problem so it is actually helpful to get a couple little blocks or matchbox cars and move them around as a starting point.
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Feb 7, 2023 21:51
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backup camera and trial by fire in SF on busy streets is how i learned. learning that "ok crank it over until the yellow marking on the camera crosses the curb, then straighten out" helped me immensely edit: ymmv with your car and it's markings
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Feb 8, 2023 01:19
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STR posted:The only sophisticated part of that ECU is the immobilizer - the ECU itself won't care. Well, that's a goddamned relief. Thank you.
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Feb 8, 2023 03:41
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Some rear end in a top hat stole the catalytic converter out of my girlfriend's Prius. Insurance is going to cover it this time. We don't know what we're going to do if this happens again. Apparently this is a common occurrence where she lives. (1) She's looking at these car alarms that you strap to the pipe leading to the converter, as well as these metal shields that also specifically protect this part. Does any of this poo poo work? (2) the shop she towed the car to doesn't seem to like working with insurance companies. They're complaining that they're going to have to take the car to another shop to weld the part on and that there's a bunch of confusion. This is weird because they were told what the problem was before the car arrived. I'm wondering if they're trying to pressure her into paying with cash, or something else shady is going on. She lives in another city and I've never met or spoken to this guy and amm relying on her account. Should my gf get the car towed to a dealership?
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Feb 8, 2023 16:04
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Yak Shaves Dot Com posted:Some rear end in a top hat stole the catalytic converter out of my girlfriend's Prius. Insurance is going to cover it this time. We don't know what we're going to do if this happens again. Apparently this is a common occurrence where she lives. 1. Nothing really works, it’s kind of like paying a bunch for rustproofing when your car will probably not rust anyway. You can weld a cage etc. if you want but the benefits are not clear cut, and it can make service more annoying for techs. If this is a common occurrence where you live a lower insurance deductible may be preferable. 2. Rando shops sometimes don’t work well with insurance. For the smoothest experience, I’d probably ask the insurance company for a shop recommendation and see if they will cover another tow.
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Feb 8, 2023 17:02
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BonoMan posted:I don't know the technical ins and outs but my sister had that car and she loved it. It only *finally* died because she abused the poo poo out of it and never performed any maintenance on it. It performed far longer than it should have given the way she treated it. Sorry missed this. Unfortunately it sold before we had the opportunity to plan for the trip up. I swear every car ad I have bookmarked for ages sells as soon as I'm even considering it. A shame in a way because normally my wife isn't interested in "older" cars, but this was an exception. Thanks for the input though. 
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Feb 8, 2023 18:31
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Yak Shaves Dot Com posted:Some rear end in a top hat stole the catalytic converter out of my girlfriend's Prius. Insurance is going to cover it this time. We don't know what we're going to do if this happens again. Apparently this is a common occurrence where she lives. 1.) To some extent, like it's more difficult than the other prius down the street without any of it so they'll steal that cat off of that other one first. 2.) Yes, they want her to pay with cash. Why would they float the cost of this repair while they wait for an insurance check? If you can't swing that you should use a shop recommended by your insurance company that has some sort of payment deal with them. If your insurance company even has a network of shops like that.
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Feb 8, 2023 18:31
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Motronic posted:
Yeah, this perspective is more reasonable. Kinda wish I hadn't leapt straight to "they're cheating her." All the shields I'm seeing look like they bolt on, which actually doesn't seem like a strong deterrent. The thief already likely has a wrench. She only hopefully has a few more months living where she is so I'll bring up getting a shop recommendation and changing her deductable. Thanks y'all
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Feb 8, 2023 21:06
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Yak Shaves Dot Com posted:Yeah, this perspective is more reasonable. Kinda wish I hadn't leapt straight to "they're cheating her." The cat jacker might have a wrench, and it might be the right size for the bolts, but removing some bolts adds time to what is somewhat an equivalent of smash and grab. These dudes want to get in and out asap. Removing bolts makes that harder, the more time they spend the more chance they get caught. A weld on one might be slightly more secure, but makes it more difficult to service the vehicle in the future.
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Feb 8, 2023 21:42
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Have you considered purchasing and operating a vehicle so old it simply does not have a catalytic converter There's nothing quite like the smell of uncatalyzed exhaust.
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Feb 8, 2023 21:45
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Bolt on guard is like the guy tying his shoes when the hungry bear comes after them "Dude why are you I just have to
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Feb 8, 2023 21:55
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Okay. First car with leather. Took me nearly 2 weeks before I noticed that I have a tear. Stupid perforated stuff, but it's definitely a lot less sweaty-balls than the non-perforated leather seats I've sat on before. I know there's no way to easily repair this and make it look perfect (and honestly, I'm amazed the leather presents as well as it does, given the age), but is there a way to keep the tear from spreading? The leather is still very soft, pretty sure this happened from the PO having a box or something with a sharp corner in the front passenger seat. The leather is otherwise in amazing shape for a high mileage 15 year old car - it's worn some, but there's no cracks, no real stains, it's still soft everywhere, etc.  (2008 Lexus ES350) randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Feb 9, 2023 |
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Feb 9, 2023 02:43
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bonus points: affix the cat shield with different sized bolts extra bonus points: make some of them metric and some imperial
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Feb 9, 2023 03:18
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STR posted:Okay. First car with leather. Took me nearly 2 weeks before I noticed that I have a tear. Stupid perforated stuff, but it's definitely a lot less sweaty-balls than the non-perforated leather seats I've sat on before. There's leather repair kits for this sorta stuff. it hasn't pulled apart yet so you don't need a patch behind it. also condition the gently caress outta the leather. It probably has never been.
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Feb 9, 2023 03:23
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I like to condition leather as well
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Feb 9, 2023 03:32
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wesleywillis posted:The cat jacker might have a wrench, and it might be the right size for the bolts, but removing some bolts adds time to what is somewhat an equivalent of smash and grab. Okay, I'll look into it. What are the good brands? I found MillerCat.
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Feb 9, 2023 04:05
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I don't think this product market has existed long enough for brands to matter yet
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Feb 9, 2023 04:07
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Car show season is almost upon us A lot of car shows require you to have a fire extinguisher, and also I'm getting ready to rebuild my carburetor. Having mental image of my fuel line coming undone and playing out that gas station car wash scene from What's a good size to carry in the trunk? I think Kiddie sells a USCG approved one that's uh, twice the size/height of a 24oz gas station beer can but I've never discharged one not sure if it would be useful in a gas fire
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Feb 9, 2023 05:20
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Hadlock posted:Car show season is almost upon us I live in  so no gas station beers or uh Kiddies but if you go to whatever auto supply place (for us it'd be princess auto, lordco, canadian tire, etc), they sell ones that importantly come with a bracket. You don't want a loose fire extinguisher bouncing around your car and if you're doing car shows it pays to have it looking properly installed. In my drift car I had two of these just bolted to the bottom of the parcel shelf. I never used them but I think if you need more than the small capacity fire extinguishers you're better off just getting clear of the vehicle and making sure other people are staying away from it also.
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Feb 9, 2023 06:31
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I've got a stupid question: I own 2009 Mk4 (9N) VW Polo 2-door. It's started to develop rust and paint bubbling below the rear quarter window on one side only. The day after it is driven in the rain it usually smells a bit damp inside too. I was planning on sanding it back and re-painting after I figured out the cause...    My first thought was that I was getting water coming in through the wheel well and its a bit trapped between the body and interior panels, and that is the source. Checked the wheel well: no obvious damage. Took off the interior panels in the area and no rust or dampness in there. Then I start to look closer around window seal... and it almost looks like its not directly bonded to the frame(?). There is some sort of seal including the flap at the b-pillar below that is bonded to the glass, and a couple of spots in the frame that almost look like they are a place to lever off the window? None of the seals around the window you can touch from the outside are bonded to the paint. So now I'm wondering if its some sort of setup where the seal is bonded to the glass only and just pushed into the frame(?) and water is getting trapped under the seal causing the rust. And can I actually just carefully push the window out???  
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Feb 9, 2023 10:10
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Hadlock posted:Car show season is almost upon us It depends. If it's a little on fire anything will work. If you really want to be paranoid and or protect your car you could look into race car fire suppression systems. I think the aircraft foam is the current standard. Good at gas fires and much easier to clean up than the ABC powder. Also you run hard lines with nozzles pointed at the gas tank, the driver, and the engine. Downsides are expense and you can't grab it to help someone else. Whatever you get, make sure it's on a metal bracket and not liable to turn into a missle in a crash.
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Feb 9, 2023 14:25
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