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I didn't see a thread for it, anyone have recommendations for a laser cutter? I basically want to cut a bunch of stencils for spray painting and I need enough that buying a laser cutter may be the cheapest and easiest option. Is there a huge difference in one that's $350 vs. $1000? I would just need it to cut thin plywood but have no experience with this kind of tech.
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Feb 7, 2023 16:24
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Immolat1on posted:I didn't see a thread for it, anyone have recommendations for a laser cutter? I basically want to cut a bunch of stencils for spray painting and I need enough that buying a laser cutter may be the cheapest and easiest option. Is there a huge difference in one that's $350 vs. $1000? I would just need it to cut thin plywood but have no experience with this kind of tech. How big? How thick? A Circut would do this without the fuss of a laser.
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Feb 7, 2023 16:36
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Motronic posted:How big? How thick? A Circut would do this without the fuss of a laser. Biggest area would be probably be roughly 18x18, can go as thin as needed as these are just stencils to be used for painting. I've been doing the same process by hand (carving the wood with a dremel tool, and for letters cutting them out of paper with an xacto knife) but am realizing it would probably be worth the money to automate.
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Feb 7, 2023 16:50
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Immolat1on posted:Biggest area would be probably be roughly 18x18, can go as thin as needed as these are just stencils to be used for painting. I've been doing the same process by hand (carving the wood with a dremel tool, and for letters cutting them out of paper with an xacto knife) but am realizing it would probably be worth the money to automate. Something in this class of plotter/cutters will probably do the trick for you: https://cricut.com/en-us/cutting-machines/cricut-maker/cricut-maker-3/cricut-maker-3/2008334.html That one in particular only does 12" wide I think but there are definitely other machines of this type that will cut more than paper and are wide enough for your needs. Probably a lot cheaper than that one too.
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Feb 7, 2023 16:56
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There is a laser thread somewhere, I want to say IYG? If you're serious about them. Also I suggest https://www.silhouetteamerica.com/ this brand as they are not hobbled by an always online interface. You cannot cut on a cricut if your internet or their service is offline. If you are serious about it grab the top license level software as it let's you do work with SVG's.
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Feb 7, 2023 17:35
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Is there a reason a cutter would be preferable to a laser? Prices seem similar and I understand a laser would be better at cutting wood? Not opposed to having that instead, just curious what the pros and cons are. I'll look for that thread, thanks.
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Feb 7, 2023 17:53
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I don't have experience with either for cutting wood, I imagine a laser would in fact be better for wood. I would dig up the laser cutter thread with your remaining eye. A cutter would be better for paper. I mostly am old man yells at clouds impulsively reacting to cricut being mentioned. 
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Feb 7, 2023 18:04
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Immolat1on posted:Is there a reason a cutter would be preferable to a laser? Prices seem similar and I understand a laser would be better at cutting wood? Not opposed to having that instead, just curious what the pros and cons are. Decent laser cutters are expensive and require a set up to exhaust the smoke outside and cool them. The cheap units you find online are often a good way to blind yourself/your family/your pets. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9hIXT8DMUU
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Feb 7, 2023 18:17
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H110Hawk posted:There is a laser thread somewhere, I want to say IYG? If you're serious about them. This is the right call. I had an old circuit it got removed from support online. It was useless.
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Feb 7, 2023 18:31
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Rexxed posted:Decent laser cutters are expensive and require a set up to exhaust the smoke outside and cool them. The cheap units you find online are often a good way to blind yourself/your family/your pets. It's this. This is why I recommending a cutter. Not necessarily a cricut. Do you want this tool to be your hobby or is this just a tool to support your hobby?
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Feb 7, 2023 19:41
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I'll have y'all know I paid good money to have lasers shot into my eyes, I think they can handle a little laser cutter. Just kidding, all the more reason to not ruin my well-lasered eye balls.Motronic posted:It's this. This is why I recommending a cutter. Not necessarily a cricut. Definitely the latter haha. I know laser cutting has a learning curve with the software and what not. Is that also the case with the cutters or are they a little more beginner friendly? Wood was my original intention but come to think of it I could get away with just using paper for everything. I wasn't too worried about the hazards of laser cutting (no pets and would put it somewhere well ventilated, I've actually had some experience exhausting fumes for my airbrush setup) and thought it MIGHT be useful after this project (for things other than stencils). But I will definitely look into the cutting route some more.
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Feb 7, 2023 20:07
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If you can get away cardstock I would do that. Laser cutters suck soup to nuts without it being a passion of yours.
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Feb 7, 2023 20:38
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Hey, thread. I'm hoping you guys can point me towards the thing I'm looking for. I'm trying to either find, or make, an inexpensive hanger for braided steel cable. It should be relatively slim in profile, and ideally either have, or be able to be attached, to a threaded rod on the end opposite the cable. Something like this:  I've been googling around, and all I seem to find are either really bulky ones that don't have any threading on them, or some fully custom hanging system that I'd need to fully buy in to to make it work, or it's all bicycle brake cables or the like.
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Feb 8, 2023 01:20
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neogeo0823 posted:Hey, thread. I'm hoping you guys can point me towards the thing I'm looking for. I'm trying to either find, or make, an inexpensive hanger for braided steel cable. It should be relatively slim in profile, and ideally either have, or be able to be attached, to a threaded rod on the end opposite the cable. This is a "what are you actually trying to accomplish because I'm pretty sure you may have gone down the wrong path" situation. Can you provide some more context? There are plenty of ways to attach to steel cable. If none of those standard ways work you probably don't want to be using steel cable. Please include the size of the cable and the expected load. Motronic fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Feb 8, 2023 |
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Feb 8, 2023 01:30
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Motronic posted:This is a "what are you actually trying to accomplish because I'm pretty sure you may have gone down the wrong path" situation. Fair enough. I'm making a set of Digitigrade stilts. I could buy them from that site, but with any applicable taxes, shipping internationally, and all that that includes, I estimate it would cost me something like $1500. I believe I can build a set for under $300. Plus, I enjoy the challenge of trying to puzzle out how to make a set of these, using nothing but that site, some Youtube videos, and my own brain. So far though, the way they attach the steel cable that runs along the backside has mostly eluded me. If you look at their online manual, and their technical specifications, you can see a bit of how they go about doing it. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find any resources that talk about the cable at all. I do not know what the working load would be, nor what size the cable should be. The cable I bought for testing purposes is 1/8" diameter, but I am in no way hard set on that size of a cable. I think it looks like the cable in the pictures is at least a bit smaller than 1/8". I do know that the cable works like a tendon, transferring some of the weight load from the ankle of the stilt to the thigh, allowing for easier standing and walking. I'm changing the design slightly though from the shown one. Instead of a single piece of cable, I'm doing 2 sections and attaching them with a quick release chain link, to make it easier to put the stilts on from a sitting or standing position. I know that the cable ends that attach to the thigh section are fixed, while the one that attaches to the bottom of the foot is adjustable, allowing the wearer to tighten or loosen it, which effects the center of gravity of the stilts. I had originally started planning to use a turnbuckle to do the cable adjustment, but as I've worked on the foot section, I've come to realize that I don't have that much linear clearance. But, I can make it work if I get something around the same size as the cable.
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Feb 8, 2023 02:09
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https://www.mcmaster.com/cable-anchors/ Scroll down to "Stud-End Plug-Lock Wire Rope End Fittings—For Lifting" - I'm sure there are easier ways to find this, but around there the parts start to look like what you want. You also need to assume the parts they are using are at least a little bit bespoke, and you might need to thread or something your fittings. As long as you're the only one using this stuff I wish you goon speed and demand pictures/video.
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Feb 8, 2023 03:06
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neogeo0823 posted:Fair enough.
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Feb 8, 2023 12:27
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What they appear to be using are custom made spelter sockets. That's a wire rope socket that is closed at one end so you put the wire in it and then pour molten zinc (in the case of things like crane cables) or I suppose epoxy for something like this to hold the rope in place. You could probably use this attachment method with lamp pipe. https://www.mcmaster.com/hollow-rods/threading~fully-threaded/lamp-pipe-4/ It's hollow threaded rod. I don't know if you'll find it in many sizes or of something else similar might be available in other sizes.
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Feb 8, 2023 14:27
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See, this? Right here? This is why I loving love this thread. This is one of the very few threads I've frequent on SA, where when I come in and ask a question, the answers I get always lead me to learning new things and having new ideas. People aren't judgemental(like in the chili thread, or the house buying thread), nor do they jump to conclusions about what I'm doing or how safe it may be(Like a couple posters in the cosplay thread, and other places). H110Hawk posted:https://www.mcmaster.com/cable-anchors/ This lead to me actually learning a proper name for what it was that I was looking for. Unfortunately, McMaster Carr is good for stocking weirdly specific items, but can be kinda pricey at what feels like odd times. But this lead to me googling things, and landed me on E-Rigging.com, which has just, so much stuff. That link is for a cable railing threaded stud. The page doesn't list the weight limit for the thing, but I assume it's not super high, because it's for cable railing. Still though, that's pretty drat close to what I think they're using over at digilegs. And $1.29 each plus ~$10 in shipping is absolutely doable for an experimental set of them to try out before actually implementing them into the stilts. Motronic posted:What they appear to be using are custom made spelter sockets. That's a wire rope socket that is closed at one end so you put the wire in it and then pour molten zinc (in the case of things like crane cables) or I suppose epoxy for something like this to hold the rope in place. You could probably use this attachment method with lamp pipe. This, on the other hand, is not only something I didn't know existed, but it's also much more up my alley. Hypothetically, if I went this route, I would, what, cut the pipe to size, thread the cable into it, crush one end with a vice or a hammer, and then fill the pipe with... epoxy? I do have some concerns about the strength of the pipe, but at this point I have no idea what sort of forces are going to be on that cable, so I guess I've gotta get an in-line scale or force gauge or something, and make some measurements when I get to that point. In possible good news for this option, lamp pipe is available at Lowes, in varying lengths and sizes, for ~$5. One of the constraints I'm attempting to stick to with this project, aside from being as inexpensive as possible, is to use as much stuff from big chain stores as possible, so that if I end up doing a bunch of public posting about this, then other people can more easily follow along and perhaps build one of these for themselves. So far, I've been doing pretty well, mostly buying things from Lowes, Harbor Freight, and just a couple items from McMaster Carr. So at this point, I've got a couple of options to work with. I need to figure out weights and tolerances, actually figure out what size cable I need, and then order parts for testing. This is a lot of stuff to think about, which is a good thing. I'm also considering starting a thread here for progress, but I'm waffling back and forth on it at the moment. Slugworth posted:I know it would be more expensive, but surely you could just find a surgeon willing to do this for you. Hmm... I hadn't considered this angle, honestly. I wonder if my insurance would cover- El Em Ay Oh I'm in the USA no it loving would not. But I mean, the only real difference would be the length of the foot, really. Humans already have all the inner workings to make that sort of thing happen. Our feet are made for plantigrade endurance running, not digitigrade bursts of speed. The stilts help compensate for that, but I wouldn't try running in them. If you wanna see something neat, this video was one of my original inspirations for starting this series of projects. I'd direct-link it here, but the preview says it's unavailable. It's a quick video from way back in the ancient past of 1999, of the making of Farscape's Namtar. Thanks again for the ideas, thread!
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Feb 9, 2023 01:24
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neogeo0823 posted:This, on the other hand, is not only something I didn't know existed, but it's also much more up my alley. Hypothetically, if I went this route, I would, what, cut the pipe to size, thread the cable into it, crush one end with a vice or a hammer, and then fill the pipe with... epoxy? Yes on the epoxy but don't bother crushing anything. Just shove the cable into it and tape over the other end, then figure out what kind of epoxy is going to be loose enough/flow enough to get all the way down in there I'd think. I'm winging it here too, I'm not epoxy expert. I know I've seen very flowable ones and I don't remember if there is a rating/class of that kind of thing. I know JB Weld will be too thick  neogeo0823 posted:I do have some concerns about the strength of the pipe, but at this point I have no idea what sort of forces are going to be on that cable, so I guess I've gotta get an in-line scale or force gauge or something, and make some measurements when I get to that point. I'd have concerns too. And I bet even if you knew the forces involved you wouldn't find a rating for that on threaded rod made for lamps. But maybe there's something else out there similar that might have ratings? Or you just move straight on to destructive testing once you know the characteristics you need? Big caveat that I think is obvious, this is all spitballing. The only real experience here I have is much larger wire rope in production spelter sockets for pulling/lifting things in the 2000+ lb range. Motronic fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Feb 9, 2023 |
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Feb 9, 2023 01:54
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Just throw in another idea in the mix: seems like bicycle brake cable is intended to handle a load, be up to a reasonable safety spec, and is sold with various fittings on the end to work with a variety of brake hardware. e.   The tubes the brake cable run through could be used on parts of the stilts to let the cables move through them without abrading each other or getting frayed or whatnot? Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Feb 9, 2023 |
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Feb 9, 2023 02:00
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 glad it helped. Honestly I wouldn't buy from McMaster unless they were the sole supplier or you had a work discount. It's just one place that I know I can go to find literally anything, and I didn't know what those things were called either when I started poking around. I just know that I've seen them in completed things. And to be clear, we all know precisely how safe it is (it's not) but you're also in theory going to be the only one injured by this contraption and likely the age of majority for your jurisdiction, so go hog wild. Post pictures of your journey to needing titanium on the inside not just the outside.
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Feb 9, 2023 02:02
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H110Hawk posted:And to be clear, we all know precisely how safe it is (it's not) but you're also in theory going to be the only one injured by this contraption and likely the age of majority for your jurisdiction, so go hog wild. Post pictures of your journey to needing titanium on the inside not just the outside. Motronic posted:I'd have concerns too. And I bet even if you knew the forces involved you wouldn't find a rating for that on threaded rod made for lamps. But maybe there's something else out there similar that might have ratings? Or you just move straight on to destructive testing once you know the characteristics you need? Hey, entirely fair, man. I've got up to ~0.5" to work with when it comes to clearance, so one idea I had for if the lamp pipe fails is to take a thick bolt and drill out the center enough to epoxy the cable into it. More metal more strong, right? Drill a tiny relief hole somewhere in the threads to let air out, and I should hypothetically be able to drill the holes, check the cable for fit, fill the hole with epoxy, then just shove the cable into it and wait for it to cure. ... Or it literally occurred to me just now, if I'm gonna go that route, I should just drill clean through, stick the cable through, then hammer a ferrule or something onto the end for good measure. Hmmm...... ... Oh, of course, it turns out that McMaster Carr has them already. Vented bolts... Huh. The vents are small, but I can get the hex head bolts, put them in a vice, and drill the holes out with a drill press. I have now learned of three entirely new categories of things today. If only they were longer than 2" max. I don't actually know yet how much length I would need on them, so currently more=more until I find the limit. I'll keep looking. Leperflesh posted:Just throw in another idea in the mix: seems like bicycle brake cable is intended to handle a load, be up to a reasonable safety spec, and is sold with various fittings on the end to work with a variety of brake hardware. Yeah, this is another good idea, and I think I'm gonna go this route. I don't know if there's a difference between the stock braided cable and specifically bicycle brake cables insofar as load limit. I'd bet there's not. But, those tubes definitely would be super useful in the very heel of the stilt, where the cable has to run over a 90 degree angle of currently bare metal. I would actually need to cut one end of the cable off anyway, so that I could turn it into a loop to hook into the quick link. Googling around tells me this about the brake cable break strength: "How strong is bicycle brake cable? Thickness: Steel cables for brakes and shifting are usually of between 1.1 and 1.5mm diameter, and even the thinnest of such cables has a carrying strength in excess of 250 lbs." Well, poo poo, I don't weigh 250lbs anymore, so that's good to know. In that case, I definitely don't need the 1/8" cable, and can go much thinner. Also, I'm stupid, and apparently can't read. Lowes does list the safe working load and break strength of their braided cables. The 1/8" that I bought lists "Safe working load 340lbs, breaking strength is 5 times the SWL". The smallest one they have is the 1/16", which lists the safe working load as 96lbs. I'd probably go with the 3/32", which is rated at 184lbs, if I bought more cable from them. But considering the bike cable, I might just buy a few pieces of that, if I can source it cheaply enough. More good stuff to look into. EDIT: I forgot to mention, I had seen these videos before, and didn't even make the connection that maybe bicycle cables, or Bowden Cables, might be viable for this. If anyone here hasn't seen Martin yet or doesn't know about his Marble Machine project, go check out his channel. He started as a musician that loved to make his own instruments, and over the last 3 or 4 years has turned himself into a mechanical engineer, and he documented basically all of the trip. It's some super cool stuff. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ub7AF3dH6i0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEZ7QFKDp0k neogeo0823 fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Feb 9, 2023 |
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Feb 9, 2023 02:49
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Please read up on the difference between static load and dynamic load, though. If the cable will be taking all of your weight when you stand still, it'll be taking multiple times your weight when you step or jump or whatever.
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Feb 9, 2023 02:56
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Leperflesh posted:Please read up on the difference between static load and dynamic load, though. If the cable will be taking all of your weight when you stand still, it'll be taking multiple times your weight when you step or jump or whatever. Will do, yeah. My thinking with going with thinner cable is that, looking at the digilegs pictures, it appears that they go pretty small with the diameter of their cables. I don't know the actual size, but I think that that cable must be thinner than 1/8". It definitely looks about as thin as the bolts on the side of the thigh support, but a bit thinner than the clevis pins they used. I definitely wouldn't go as small as the 1/16". I'll have to look into those bicycle cables and see what they're rated for. Either way I would definitely find a way to stress test the parts before actually trying to walk around in the stilts. The cables snapping are one of the bigger worries I have with this project.
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Feb 9, 2023 03:05
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Brake cable for motorized scooters will be more stout than bicycle brake cables, and may also solve the end mounting concern. Random search result: https://www.scooterwest.com/rear-brake-cable-complete-piaggio-fly-150-601736.html
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Feb 9, 2023 03:05
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Mario posted:Brake cable for motorized scooters will be more stout than bicycle brake cables, and may also solve the end mounting concern. Random search result: https://www.scooterwest.com/rear-brake-cable-complete-piaggio-fly-150-601736.html I loving love this thread.
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Feb 9, 2023 03:11
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And in the shower I was thinking about how ebrake cable in cars is likely pretty stout. Time to raid a junk yard.
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Feb 9, 2023 03:37
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Something else you can do is use multiple cables in parallel. That'd let you go thinner while maintaining more of a safety margin. And if a cable does fail, there's a decent chance you'll be able to notice and safely dismount rather than having everything collapse immediately.
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Feb 9, 2023 04:05
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Mario posted:Brake cable for motorized scooters will be more stout than bicycle brake cables, and may also solve the end mounting concern. Random search result: https://www.scooterwest.com/rear-brake-cable-complete-piaggio-fly-150-601736.html drat, I was gonna suggest similar but learn more towards vintage Vespa cables since their ends are more similar to standard bike cables, but bigger. You can get fancy Teflon-lined ones too from SIP Scootershop but shipping from Germany might be killer. But this reminds me that you could just go for any variety of motorcycle cable, too, and maybe get thicker still. A ton of motos still use cable-actuated clutches, and cable-actuated brakes used to be the standard (and are still not-unheard of in smaller bikes with rear drums). Partzilla or CheapCycleParts or BikeBandit could be good places look but I don’t have a specific recommendation.
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Feb 9, 2023 05:23
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I was thinking about this and if you're still considering the make your own spelter socket a good starting point for epoxy that flows well enough that is also easily available at any auto parts store would be fiberglass resin. This stuff: https://www.amazon.com/3M-20122-Purpose-Fiberglass-Resin/dp/B003ODJ8J4
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Feb 9, 2023 15:22
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I'm still concerned about a biike or vehicle brake cable holding the weight of a human (even non goon sized) especially if there's movement happening. Clutch cable's generally actuate hydraulics and even if it's a direct cable to the throwout bearing you're not holding 100's of lbs. An emergency brake cable hold sustained pressure (and does stretch over time) but not 100's of lbs. Both of these are designed to repeatedly capture maybe 50-60 lbs of pressure, and sustain them for some period (brake cables) not sure I"d hang myself from one.
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Feb 9, 2023 15:36
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Stepping away from the circus and back to my apparently mold infested house. While cleaning out the basement, we pulled some things away from a wall and found quite a bit of mold: This is not the same wall as that shower, for the record. It is an old house, with a lot of deferred maintenance from the previous owners, and the basement is not finished, nor does it always stay dry (no major flooding or anything, but occasional wet spots against a different part of this wall). That wall does have drywall on it, and my guess is that it is the cinderblock foundation behind the drywall. We run a dehydrator in the basement, but it was on the other side of the basement and through a wall from this room. We're planning on replacing the gutters on the front of the house (this wall is the basement of the front of the house), as they're quite old and leak at the seams. I imagine that will help, as well as making sure the soil flows away from the foundation, which I doubt it does right now due to the water erosion from the leaking gutters. 3 questions: 1) Is there anything else we should be doing? 2) How should we clean up that wall? I assume rip the drywall off, but anything else? 3) What should I look for for replacement gutters/installers?
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Feb 9, 2023 21:45
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rip out the drywall and inspect the interior. Remove/replace rotten wood, sistering or replacing studs as needed. Treat the area with concrobium or similar mold remediation product before installing new drywall. Moisture may be caused by condensation so pay attention to airflow and temperature differentials for the future. You may need to install insulation and a vapor barrier to prevent these temp shifts that lead to condensation. Obviously if you have actual leaking from the exterior that has to be addressed, and as you said, properly sloped grade at the foundation is important too. I don't have a recommendation for gutters, I imagine it depends on a lot of factors like the actual roof design 
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Feb 9, 2023 22:59
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Grumpwagon posted:3 questions: 1) Get a larger dehumidifer. I know that you said that you have one but make sure it's more than a cheapy Home Depot bucket-sized unit. I have an AprilAire E100 and the amount of moisture that it removes from our basement is pretty ridiculous. But it's also very large, very loud, and very expensive. Also consider putting in a rain garden about 10 feet our from your foundation. They're neat. 2) Yes that drywall needs to go. When I used to work in the industry we would always quip that drywall "is mold candy". But you also need to resolve the drainage issue before you replace the drywall because otherwise the mold will come right back. Would be interested in seeing what your foundation wall looks like without the drywall. 3) I have a long piece of PVC O-pipe (I think it's 3" nominal sizing. Maybe 4"?) screwed into the end of my downspout which I use to extend my downspout far and away from my foundation. It has helped since our lawn is very flat. melon cat fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Feb 19, 2023 |
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Feb 9, 2023 23:17
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devicenull posted:Does anyone know what the hell this top cap is called? Update: Sent oshcut.com a drawing, and got a replacement cap made...  16 gauge stainless steel should outlast me, so mission accomplished.
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Feb 10, 2023 03:10
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Grumpwagon posted:Stepping away from the circus and back to my apparently mold infested house. While cleaning out the basement, we pulled some things away from a wall and found quite a bit of mold: 1) no. This is the consequence of the dresser being against the wall, and creating a pocket of still air between the two. Just a far better environment for mold. Pull anything away from the wall: a chair a box, a piece of panelling in storage - and you'll find this. The solution is to not park stuff against the wall: leave at least 3"-4" space. The more the better. 2) If the drywall itself is undamaged: surface cleaner like Fabuloso, then Lysol, or a 10:1 water:bleach solution either wiped or sprayed on. Then paint it with Kilz. 3) avoid 'systems.' Stick to 5" aluminum K or, it you've got money to burn: half-round. If you have haystacks of money to burn: copper  But no systems.
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Feb 10, 2023 03:17
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PainterofCrap posted:
As an aside to this, as my first house had -shudder- plastic gutters, I was stunned when I finally got them replaced with steel that I could just... put the ladder up against them and climb up it! Strong mofos.
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Feb 10, 2023 16:51
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As another aside, despite incredibly widespread advice to use bleach, bleach only cleans mold from a surface, killing on contact but not penetrating; and as a fungus, mold has a mycelium that lives within porous and semiporous surfaces. Such as drywall and wood. Bleach rapidly chemically neutralizes when exposed to the air and stops being effective in hours or at most a couple of days. Bleach is not an effective long-term mold remediation product. Products such as Concrobium, DeCon, Mold Armor or Vital Oxide are designed to penetrate and give lasting protection. Use as directed by the manufacturer. I use Concrobium because it's at home depot and it doesn't have a strong odor or post a risk to my cats after treatment.
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Feb 10, 2023 21:51
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I need remove a cultured marble countertop it’s huge 22x110. I would like cut it into 2 or 3 chunks. I have a couple new but cheap($10) circular saw blades sitting in the bottom of the toolbox. Can I safely sacrifice these blades or do need go buy a diamond blade?
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Feb 11, 2023 19:03
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