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I'd say go conservative this year and leave those big ones alone. If it looks bad, do a full prune next year. I'm not sure what the full pruning would accomplish though, because you'd just be trying to grow back the same big canes from scratch. The big vertical ones are allowing it to stay narrow closer to the ground and then bush out higher up. That's what you want, right?
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Feb 7, 2023 15:07
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Yeah I wasn't keen on the nuclear option. I'd seen a couple places recommend trimming it back to essentially a stump with a few sticks poking out if it gets overgrown and tangled like that but I like the general structure of it now, besides the tangled small branches. I'm not even sure how much of it is still alive/able to sprout new branches, most of the upper structure feels completely dead and dried out.
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Feb 7, 2023 15:34
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kemikalkadet posted:I'm not even sure how much of it is still alive/able to sprout new branches, most of the upper structure feels completely dead and dried out. In my experience that's just what clematis feels like. It doesn't have a lot of green/herby material once it's dormant.
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Feb 7, 2023 16:47
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Communist Q posted:Lychees grown from seed apparently take 8 to 10 years to fruit, and similar to apples they don't grow true to seed so you might get some really crappy lychees out of it. Most are propagated by air layering these days because of this. But hey if you're willing to commit to babying a tree for a decade, go nuts. Lychees not very happy…but I planted some jackfruit seeds in pots too and they are much much happier…also my avocado tree has survived multiple cat pisses this winter so far.
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Feb 7, 2023 16:53
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Or, as we call it in this household, tomato porn. I have dog-eared so many tomato pages I don't even know what to do with myself.
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Feb 7, 2023 16:58
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Fitzy Fitz posted:In my experience that's just what clematis feels like. It doesn't have a lot of green/herby material once it's dormant.  Decided to just go at it with the secatuers. It really wasn't as bad as it looked initially and I think I'm happy with leaving it like this. All the supporting branches I've left were green inside when I cut through them so I guess they are still alive. Noticed a couple little shoots of new growth too so I assume it'll be growing out of control soon enough.
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Feb 7, 2023 17:07
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You might just be able to prune it back exactly like that every year. It's basically an espalier.
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Feb 7, 2023 17:22
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Not really needing guidance just chatting while rolling options around in my head: How long before transplant do you start stuff?
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Feb 8, 2023 18:42
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CommonShore posted:Not really needing guidance just chatting while rolling options around in my head: Depends on the type of plant. A lot of things will be 8 weeks. Peppers will be 8-12 weeks depending on the plant. Large greens usually only take 4-6 weeks for me. Really depends on season and what I'm trying to do as well. Autumn crops I give two extra weeks before transplant at least. Some of that will be the summer crop isn't ready to be taken out, and some of that is wanting large plants to transplant so they get a good boost before the weather and sun disappear.
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Feb 8, 2023 19:02
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Jhet posted:Depends on the type of plant. A lot of things will be 8 weeks. Peppers will be 8-12 weeks depending on the plant. Large greens usually only take 4-6 weeks for me. Really depends on season and what I'm trying to do as well. Autumn crops I give two extra weeks before transplant at least. Some of that will be the summer crop isn't ready to be taken out, and some of that is wanting large plants to transplant so they get a good boost before the weather and sun disappear. Yeah I've been waffling on 6 to 8 weeks for my main crop large plants like tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants etc (for me that's starting them in mid march vs early april) and for my kale and spring greens (which I'll likely start pretty soon for an april transplant into protected growing)
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Feb 8, 2023 19:09
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I haven't done greens via transplant in years, I always direct sow now. "Poke a hole, add a few seeds, cover" for bigger greens like komatsuna and "just scatter the seed" for smaller ones like bok choy.
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Feb 8, 2023 23:45
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My plan for spring is coming together. I'm removing a 3x3 and a 6x3 metal bed from my deer-fenced area and replacing it with a u-shaped roughly 9x9 raised bed with a big trellis arch over the open area in the middle. Got little chou chea red watermelon and honeynut squash to grow over the trellis. Long side of the new bed will be four kinds of tomatoes. Thyme, rosemary, basil and marigolds interspersed for pollinator attraction and aphid repulsion. Asparagus is hitting its third year in the dedicated bed so expecting it to go gangbusters. Bigger 6x3 existing bed will get four kinds of peppers and carrots. 4x3 existing bed gets a scaled back three sisters plan with mammoth sunflowers to act as the support for shelling peas and beets as ground cover. Low 3x3 bed will either be poppies again or ground cherries. Loser gets put in some 5-gallon buckets. I'm sort of undecided what to do with my evicted metal beds. I have plenty of space for them in sunny or partly sunny spots. I have half a mind to plant a "decoy" bed to distract deer from trying to MacGyver their way into my enclosed garden area, but I'm guessing that might actually just make more of them show up and be assholes. Maybe I'll see if I can get pumpkins to grow faster than the deer can eat them. CommonShore posted:Not really needing guidance just chatting while rolling options around in my head: Seed packet is generally your guide. For me it's 10 weeks for peppers, 8 weeks for tomatoes. Most everything else I direct sow. Actually having something of a dilemma now because I'm going on a road trip in a few weeks and don't have anybody to water seedlings. Will have to start them late or bring them with me like a crazy person.
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Feb 9, 2023 00:42
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SubG posted:I haven't done greens via transplant in years, I always direct sow now. "Poke a hole, add a few seeds, cover" for bigger greens like komatsuna and "just scatter the seed" for smaller ones like bok choy. I'm early starting greens just so I can start eating them earlier. It's partly an experiment - make some plugs, put them into the hoop house a few weeks before last frost, and hope that I can have a few nice weeks of spinach and lettuce to enjoy before it gets too hot to grow them in there and they bolt. Meanwhile we have a shade bed we're starting this year and the hope is that the ones that we direct sow into that one will be in good shape to be a succession crop
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Feb 9, 2023 06:54
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SubG posted:I haven't done greens via transplant in years, I always direct sow now. "Poke a hole, add a few seeds, cover" for bigger greens like komatsuna and "just scatter the seed" for smaller ones like bok choy. This is what I generally do for giant mustard greens, but this year way too many of them actually sprouted and I had to thin them. Now they're being devoured by bugs. Sprayed some BT thinking it was mostly worms/caterpillars but I just started to see what I think are flea beetles and I'm annoyed. The good news is that between a hard freeze a couple of weeks ago (which we get once every three-four years where I live) and some pretty stiff windstorms over the last week, my garden is due for an almost complete revamp. I cut back my curry trees and considered removing them but I'm glad I didn't as two of the three are now starting to re-leaf. The wind finally took out the rickety-rear end trellis system I'd rigged up over a couple of raised beds, so I need to rebuild that so the beans that are just coming up have somewhere to grow. Then I will throw a rotting pumpkin into the yard and enjoy watching it devoured by bugs. See also: cucumbers and zucchini. I also planted pepper seeds from a few varieties but if they've started to come up I haven't seen it. There are a few places in my garden where they'll probably just grow from bug-eaten peppers I threw around. See also: beans of dubious heritage and herbs like shiso, culantro and epazote. The good news is that the "weeds" I have been trying to cultivate are coming on strong. The pellitory is out-competing my mustard greens and I just saw the start of some stinging nettle that I thought I'd actually gotten rid of because I was wrong to plant that in my garden on purpose. Maybe I'll actually contain it this time and put it to use. I know people rave about the stuff but I was deeply underwhelmed by the flavor and gently caress does it hurt if you don't handle it carefully.
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Feb 9, 2023 21:33
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Motronic posted:increments of the wide side of a 2x4? So...4?
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Feb 9, 2023 22:43
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Machai posted:So...4? Lol silly man:  Of course!
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Feb 9, 2023 23:15
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I think I'm going to cut down a little tree (overgrown bush? weed?) in my front yard tomorrow. I've lived here for five years and I've never liked it. I don't have anything to do tomorrow, so maybe it'll be a trip to the bakery and then afterward I get rid of this sucker. I don't have a photo of it during the spring/summer when it flowers. It leaves little fruits in my yard that kind of look like pears. I also didn't think to take a picture during the day; thank you to Google Night Sight for making the tree visible as of five minutes ago when I shot that picture. I'm guessing the tippity-top branch is about 15 feet high; the base is only about three feet in diameter. It's been in the high-20s/low-30s here for the past couple of weeks. idk anything about taking out something that has roots; should I wait until spring or is winter a good time to do it since it's presumably dormant? Or maybe I cut it down now but don't dig out the stump (I can't imagine the stump will be that deep for something this skinny?) until things warm up?
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Feb 11, 2023 05:03
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Soul Dentist posted:Lol silly man: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txPcLOtbG3s
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Feb 11, 2023 17:02
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Hello gardening thread, I have some tomato problems- Some of them are developing black spots on the bottom of them. I was hopeful that because they're Paul Robesons it was just them turning their darker color, but parts of them have gotten a little wrinkled on the skin and now I think it is some sort of problem. Googling it suggests "Blossom End Rot" but I'm not sure. They were freshy planted in new soil about two months ago, and about two weeks ago I gave them the recommended amount of "Dr. Earth's Home Grown Tomato, Vegetable, Herb Fertilizer". I'm reading up on the suspected affliction, and I wonder if my issue isn't that I have them in 5-gallon buckets which are too small, and dries out too quickly- basically every afternoon when I get home from work they're wilted- it's winter here, but it's South Florida so it's still pretty warm and sunny. Any suggestions would be helpful, I've never grown tomatoes before. I'm guessing I should repot them in something bigger than a 5 gallon bucket and maybe water more frequently? I should probably also remove the tomatoes with the black on them?
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Feb 11, 2023 18:49
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Yeah that's blossom end rot, it comes from the plant lacking calcium. It's generally caused by inconsistent watering but rarely you might need to supplement calcium in your soil. Since you mentioned watering problems and new soil it's almost certainly the water. 5gal buckets are ok for lots of tomato varieties, maybe look into some sort of irrigation if you can't keep up with it, or get an oya
PokeJoe fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Feb 11, 2023 |
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Feb 11, 2023 18:56
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One year I gave my potted tomatoes BER by giving them too much general-purpose fertilizer without calcium supplement. Apparently a calcium deficiency can be kinda passively caused by giving the plant enough N that it outgrows the available calcium. The silver lining is that tomatoes with BER still can be pared down and used for sauce or whatever, so even if there's some nastiness, it's not a full loss.
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Feb 11, 2023 19:43
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Thank you, I picked up a calcium supplement spray that had a picture of blossom end rot on it- I'll give them a little bit of that, and either try to make sure I'm getting them some water in the morning before work or play around with a plastic bottle drip thing/oya.
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Feb 11, 2023 20:32
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surf rock posted:
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Feb 11, 2023 22:52
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Looks like a silver birch from the pic but maybe that's just the lighting. their fruit don't really look like pears either.
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Feb 11, 2023 23:15
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Hey I'm doing home-scale maple sugar shack stuff for year 3 rn. I'm gonna post about it. Any suggestions for where I should post? In my head it's part of my own gardening stuff, but maybe it should go into the historical cooking thread, or somewhere else.
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Feb 11, 2023 23:23
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CommonShore posted:Hey I'm doing home-scale maple sugar shack stuff for year 3 rn. I'm gonna post about it. Any suggestions for where I should post? In my head it's part of my own gardening stuff, but maybe it should go into the historical cooking thread, or somewhere else. You should absolutely make a thread and post links to it here and in a bunch of other threads.
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Feb 11, 2023 23:37
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Hamhandler posted:Thank you, I picked up a calcium supplement spray that had a picture of blossom end rot on it- I'll give them a little bit of that, and either try to make sure I'm getting them some water in the morning before work or play around with a plastic bottle drip thing/oya. Just a heads up that anything you do can't help the fruit that's already affected. Save or prune as needed!
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Feb 12, 2023 00:06
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Motronic posted:You should absolutely make a thread and post links to it here and in a bunch of other threads. This. It’s both gardening and cooking.  Syrup season is the most wonderful time of the year.
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Feb 12, 2023 00:26
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The thread is up https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=4023893 I'll go post it in some of the other threads I thought of
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Feb 12, 2023 00:32
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SubG posted:If you're looking for an identification, what colour are the fruit? Have you ever cut one open? Because none of the trees I can think of off the top of my head that produce pear-shaped fruits are a) deciduous (e.g. the loquat), or b) would be happy in weather down in the 20s (guava, jujube, kumquat). Maybe a quince. Except the bark doesn't look like quince. Or pear, for that matter. The fruit are kind of a yellowy-orange mix after ripening. I never cut one open, they were usually half-dead on the branch or rotting in the yard. I looked up a bunch of different fruit trees, and... maybe it is quince? That's the closest thing I saw, although it still doesn't look quite right. Sure would be nice if I had ever taken a picture of the thing before I start cutting it down.
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Feb 12, 2023 04:19
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I'm having the damnedest time trying to keep the fruit on my New Zealand Lemonade tree. Each and every lemon dropped off it before they had a chance to grow, either from wind or bumping into it. It's indoors in a 5a environment but only has access to a west-facing window. Is it not enough light? I water it deeply once a week.
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Feb 12, 2023 05:12
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What are you fertilizing with?
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Feb 12, 2023 07:08
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Down to earth citrus mix
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Feb 12, 2023 09:56
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FIRST STARTERS ABOUT TO GO INTO DIRT
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Feb 12, 2023 17:14
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I'm looking forward to having a greenhouse space. Year round planting and growing will be fun, but instead I've just ordered my seeds. I'm narrowing down my hot pepper variety even further and this year will be 80% Cayenne + Caribbean Red for fermented vinegar sauce. Looking forward to starting seeds, but I need to start a few super hots this week. It's getting late, but I want to try to get them in tons of sunlight to see how that changes things.
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Feb 13, 2023 22:37
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Does anybody have any recommended heat mats or lamps for starting seeds? I want to grow a few hot peppers from seed this year and realize I need to get on that soon.
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Feb 14, 2023 12:45
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Unsure if this is the best place to ask but gently caress it, plants. So I live in Chicago in a house and have a small front yard with grass and a few juniper bushes. I hate mowing it (it's not a time thing I just hate mowing a tiny useless patch of grass) and am going to get rid of the grass and let it go wild, ideally seeding some native plants and putting in annuals at first before it gets established. What's the best way to get rid of the grass? My research has led me to believe that the best way to kill the grass while also improving/helping soil health would be to dump about 4-6 inches of wood mulch on top (which I would hope to get free from the city if possible) and then mix in some compost (which I have enough space that I'm actually making my own to some degree) and then plant in that. Does that sound like a reasonable idea? I was going to smother the grass with carboard but I read that cuts down on soil air quailty too much. Any thoughts?
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Feb 14, 2023 22:59
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Glyphosate
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Feb 14, 2023 23:19
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Motronic posted:Glyphosate How long would you have to leave it alone after before you could plant into it?
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Feb 14, 2023 23:32
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captkirk posted:How long would you have to leave it alone after before you could plant into it? The bottle I have says three days. I’d let it go a little longer because why not but check what you have and follow the directions to the letter.
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Feb 14, 2023 23:34
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