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Just shove a paintbrush with the main armor coler in that backpack connecting thing or in armpits or taints so i'll look good even when 3 cm in front of your face. I get the perfectionism thing but dude there's an extent where it's not worth it. If you want to paint up an army where everything is maximum effort and time spent on it, do it. That's totally fine. It's just that even for high effort paint jobs turns out that you don't need to go that hard on armpits and buttholes. Let's take a look at this dude I just painted where i went pretty high effort:    Can you see his armpits? Did you even notice them? No. You saw the staff, the face, the cloak, and the ribcage. Maybe the trinkets on his hip. But those sections are where 90% of the effort went into as no one gives a gently caress about any of the other details. I painted his armpits and even did a gradient on the inside of the cloak in there, while the model was fully assembled, it wasn't that bad. Can you see the butt? No, that part isn't even primed as I couldn't get a paintbrush in there once he's on a base. If you want to break poo poo out into crazy rear end sub assemblies like a gunpla painter then do it. I just want to share the message in big marque font across the skies that it's not worth it.
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Feb 13, 2023 21:19
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I sub assemble for most stuff, it really doesn’t slow me down much because I paint slower and have to repaint stuff when I don’t sub
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Feb 13, 2023 21:32
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Silhouette posted:If you can't reach it, you can't see it I never understood the "if you can't reach it, you can't see it" saying. There's a ton of models with weird rear end poo poo going on that it nearly impossible to reach without an angled brush, but is very visible. I can't imagine trying to paint the Luminark of Hysh if it's fully assembled (including gluing the guy to the top). Trying to get a brush between the rings of the laser thing on top, between the wizard's robes and the stand he's on, inside of the cart itself, and behind the horses, seems really difficult. If you left these all unpainted, it would be very obvious. I painted this in a lot of sub assemblies, luckily.  edit: You can see my unpainted but fully assembled Mortis Engine behind this, and you can imagine my regret at not painting that in sub assemblies. It's going to be a nightmare to finish painting if I ever attempt to.
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Feb 13, 2023 22:00
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Chainclaw posted:I never understood the "if you can't reach it, you can't see it" saying. There's a ton of models with weird rear end poo poo going on that it nearly impossible to reach without an angled brush, but is very visible. That's a different story and totally deserving of sub assemblies. For basic poo poo like a marine holding a bolter with 2 hands you really don't need them.
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Feb 13, 2023 22:11
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It's still a thing even on big stuff. Some of it can be awkward to reach, sure but that's what a little dry fitting and pre-planning is for. I've built and painted engines that get sealed up in planes and tanks for no one to ever see, and I've also straight up not painted the fully-exposed underside of a tank. Life ain't worth putting all that detail into things only you'll ever know about, trust me.
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Feb 13, 2023 22:25
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Are there any safety precautions I need to take before using something like Tamiya Panel Liner? Up until this point I have mostly stuck with acrylic products.
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Feb 13, 2023 22:26
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Spanish Manlove posted:That's a different story and totally deserving of sub assemblies. For basic poo poo like a marine holding a bolter with 2 hands you really don't need them. Echoing this, and adding: If you're painting a squad of figures, get used to thinking of the entire unit as the model. You might miss a few details, that's human. But when you're looking at twelve guys in the same uniform, stuff that would stick out become incredibly hard to notice.
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Feb 13, 2023 22:34
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Bored Online posted:Are there any safety precautions I need to take before using something like Tamiya Panel Liner? Up until this point I have mostly stuck with acrylic products. Probably dont drink it.
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Feb 13, 2023 22:34
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Bored Online posted:Are there any safety precautions I need to take before using something like Tamiya Panel Liner? Up until this point I have mostly stuck with acrylic products. Put down a coat of clear gloss. It will make cleanup easier and the panel liner will flow easier. Make sure you have the right thinner, use a dedicated (and cheap) brush, and have some q-tips handy for cleanup. And of course a respirator or mask rated for organic solvents. The amount of that stuff you want in your lungs is exactly, integer, zero.
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Feb 13, 2023 22:35
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So on the recommendation of the thread I upgraded to an Itawa Neo with a proper compressor from one of those crummy little handheld compressor Chinese jobs. First impression is to call the garbage I was using an "airbrush" next to this is like calling microwave ramen a dining experience. Lots more control and regular flow. I really need to figure out how to get more precision for minis stuff, but I'm digging it. E: preliminary testing putting speed/contrast paint thru it is encouraging. Owlbear Camus fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Feb 13, 2023 |
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Feb 13, 2023 22:45
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My 2c on the "build them, break them apart to paint in subassemblies then build them properly" thing; Look, its your army, if the process works for you and you are happy with it then do whatever. I dont think anyone would argue with that. But I gotta come down on the side of Spanish Manlove of "Thats insane you are literally building them twice". Me, I dont much like building models (especially monopose ones) so I preferentially buy pre-owned (and so prebuilt) figures off ebay. Which I'll admit has its own problems sometimes but using the metric of "time required to have a built and useable force" its tough to beat. Painting figures in sub assemblies can be a sensible idea for some models (centrepieces like characters, some vehicles, monsters, display pieces, that sort of thing) which can have a lot more detail, unusual posing and draw most of the attention in an army (or on a shelf) but line troops? Spray 'em black, give 'em a zenithal and just paint around the awkward bits. Worst case scenario theres been a few where I've had to pop them off their base to get to a bit of cloak or robe between legs which is visible from the front but hard to reach but thats fine because I often paint figures then rebase them anyway. Once they are in a group of 10 on a battlefield the difference between a great paintjob and a decent paint job is really diminished. Sometimes good enough, is. Plus you can always go back to a squad with a mediocre paint job and touch them up/push highlights later. Again, its kind of what you want out of it I guess. If you would rather have 20 well painted troops than a complete army painted to tabletop standard with a well painted leader in the same time* then you do you. But I got the impression OP is slightly frustrated with how slowly they are painting/getting troops to the table, so the obvious thing to do is "look for corners to cut to speed it up". If you treat every line trooper like you might enter it into a competition you'll end up with some very lovely figures but you'll not finish an army in the next decade. Theres a million and one videos out there on speed painting techniques which can help get figures to a decent standard quickly but bullet point #1 in this case is almost certainly going to be "Dont build your entire army twice". Entirely personally I also think there is something to be said for having a complete figure, slapping 3 base colours on it and thinking "Technically tournament legal, I could stop now if I wanted" then carrying on. Anything you add after the bare minimum is because you want to and you are enjoying it. I dont get those little milestone endorphin rushes when the figure is still in bits because they arent finished to any standard if they are still in bits. *all numbers pulled entirely out of my rear end for illustrative purposes. Exact ratio will depend on how quickly you paint and how much detail you do.
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Feb 13, 2023 23:09
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Owlbear Camus posted:So on the recommendation of the thread I upgraded to an Itawa Neo with a proper compressor from one of those crummy little handheld compressor Chinese jobs. I want to be clear I'm not needling you or saying I told you so, but in seriousness, thanks for posting this. Every so often someone rolls into this thread or one of the other model threads and goes "I wanna buy one of those crappy handheld airbrush/compressor combos," and they get a bunch of people replying that no, those things suck, and then the OP says something like "but ninjon/zaku/whoever on youtube said they're the best, I got one anyway," and it turns out every time that they suck, and the person has a lovely first-time airbrush experience. It drives me crazy. Seriously, thank you for raising awareness about these drat things. Anyway, give it a year or so to give you time to get used to airbrushing, then treat yourself to a really nice Iwata or a H&S (which is technically the same thing these days, I guess). If you thought the jump from no-name to the cheap Iwata was big, hoo boy.
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Feb 14, 2023 01:25
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I knew I wasn't getting "the best" with those but I thought I was keeping to a budget. You'd think as someone who practicality makes a hobby of collecting hobbies, I'd have "buy once cry once" tattooed all over my body.
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Feb 14, 2023 01:37
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Started this guy this afternoon. My first mini that I’ve used the scale75 artist paints on.   Still a lot of clean-up to do and more highlights but I’ve really enjoyed painting him. There are some figures that seem like they’d be a lot of fun but are a real drag in practice. He is not one of them. Just lots of fun. I now want to buy a few more and paint one for each chaos god…
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Feb 14, 2023 01:50
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bird food bathtub posted:I'm putting together models with elmer's glue I can break off easily later and forcing myself to stop after giving them a layer of primer. genius, no notes. stealin this
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Feb 14, 2023 01:58
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Finished this guy last weekend even though I've had the model for years in my pile. As far as how long it took me... I watched Hateful Eight while I painted and finished it by the end of the movie. I was experimenting with zenithal highlighting and not using black as a primer. I used Vallejo royal purple, white zenithal, and then various greens airbrushed on and contrast paints. Came together real nice.  
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Feb 14, 2023 02:55
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Agreed!
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Feb 14, 2023 02:59
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Nicely done. With that said, I don't know how you guys who paint Nurgle stuff can do it without throwing up in your mouth every couple of hours. It's causing me mild trypophobia. Like I actually get kind of nauseous looking at that Great Unclean One's back.
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Feb 14, 2023 03:08
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still the most GOATed model for all the demon princes
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Feb 14, 2023 03:10
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AndyElusive posted:Nicely done. The research I did for the model involved a lot of surgical photos and car crashes. It wasn't pleasant. After that, looking at the model isn't so bad.
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Feb 14, 2023 03:39
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Haven't been painting much so trying to ease back into it by... trying another Eldar colour scheme! Not sure how I feel but I'll iterate on it.
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Feb 14, 2023 05:40
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i usually print battletech minis and give them to a friend to paint but i painted this guy for another friend and i'm really proud of it   not for any game or anything, just a display piece
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Feb 14, 2023 06:01
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Very well executed and just looks super clean, the feathers are great but I really like the water.
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Feb 14, 2023 07:02
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Hatching is as fun as trying to get these loving Lords-Imperitant to fit without huge gaps was not. This is the improved version, tragically.      I had to actively work to make the maskless version not look like Nicholas II.
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Feb 14, 2023 07:05
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Ez8 posted:The research I did for the model involved a lot of surgical photos and car crashes. It wasn't pleasant. 
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Feb 14, 2023 07:06
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AndyElusive posted:Nicely done. If you ever want to do a nurgle Army but with a less gross theme, OPR's Plague Demon line would be a good place to look. They still have snails and maggots, but most of the body horror open wound stuff is replaced with mushrooms and other odd growths. Gives a look that is unsettling, but more stomach friendly.
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Feb 14, 2023 07:19
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and look how happy those snails are! https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-plague-snail-243186 
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Feb 14, 2023 07:31
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 Don't worry too much about the mold lines, when the cement is more dry I'll go back and clean more stuff up, just kind of blitzed through the worst offenders I ended up getting some sprues for these primaris intercessors and knew immediately I wanted to paint these up later to be blood ravens, though I don't really have any decals for them. IDK anything about them being a kill team, I honestly just picked the coolest looking equipment. On the similar topic of building minis, someone mentioned last page, I don't generally enjoy it as much as painting. It can be kind of zen in a way, but generally it feels like I'm wasting time I could be painting instead. But the trade off is I can position stuff in a way I think is cool and don't have to worry too much about the models being completely uncleaned beforehand. So, yeah, bonus is the models aren't monopose. Negative is that they take hours longer than I typically enjoy spending on that aspect. I also made sure to pick faces instead of helmets to force me to work on faces instead of avoiding them GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 09:07 on Feb 14, 2023 |
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Feb 14, 2023 09:04
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I honestly just picked the coolest looking equipment. I feel bad for the guy who is apparently only armed with just a pistol
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Feb 14, 2023 09:28
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Hey guys, I've started to magnetize some bases, I think I've made a mistake of some sort, while the bases do stick to the Magnet paper, there's not enough power to make them stick solidly in place, almost no traction so they're a bit slidey when I mildly tilt the box, I'm not sure what's going on. also, the magnets are significantly shorter than the bottom of the minis, so I have to stack 2-3 on top of each other to reach the magnet paper. I'm not sure what's going on? for reference these are the specific magnets and magnet paper I'm using. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CL1H4ZM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B64TDJ22?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Did I get the magnet size or strength wrong? Al-Saqr fucked around with this message at 10:12 on Feb 14, 2023 |
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Feb 14, 2023 10:06
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How strongly do the magnets stick to the paper when not attached to the miniatures?
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Feb 14, 2023 10:11
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Lamuella posted:How strongly do the magnets stick to the paper when not attached to the miniatures? It seemed pretty solidly stuck in, doesnt move when i tilt, and was tough to remove with my fingers so i thought it was good, maybe i just have to use more magnets per miniature?
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Feb 14, 2023 10:14
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lot of strong opinions about how someone should enjoy the hobby itt, if you like your (objectively insane) sub-assembly go for it OP, though I think you can probably get away with less sub-assemblies.
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Feb 14, 2023 10:40
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Al-Saqr posted:Hey guys, I've started to magnetize some bases, I think I've made a mistake of some sort, while the bases do stick to the Magnet paper, there's not enough power to make them stick solidly in place, almost no traction so they're a bit slidey when I mildly tilt the box, I'm not sure what's going on. also, the magnets are significantly shorter than the bottom of the minis, so I have to stack 2-3 on top of each other to reach the magnet paper. I'm not sure what's going on? A couple of things to keep in mind: Magnetic paper isn't very strong. The magnet's attraction to it is going to be weaker than say, a steel plate. The magnet isn't just attracted to the surface of the magnetically active surface, it is attracted to the entire thing, so thicker plates will attract more. Magnetic paper is very thin. The attraction diminishes extremely quickly with distance. If you need your minis to be absolutely stuck you need to minimize that distance. A couple of methods I've seen to do that are using a big glob of two-party epoxy or green stuff, sticking the magnet in there, and then gently pressing the base to a table to make it absolutely flush with the bottom. The magnets you chose are fine, but if you need the minis to not slide around at all you probably need a stronger surface than the magnetic paper, as well as making sure the magnets are totally flush with the bottom of the base.
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Feb 14, 2023 10:48
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Geisladisk posted:A couple of things to keep in mind: ok thanks
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Feb 14, 2023 11:08
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9OuHp9J-4E Goobertown Hobbies did a pretty good video on magnetic stuff, might give you some ideas. Also for a extremely cheap and easy magnetic solution, I think it's hard to beat the Ikea letter tray + pet bag combo: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/kvissle-letter-tray-white-70198031/ https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/lurvig-pet-travel-bag-black-gray-90464868/ The letter tray is made of magnetically active steel. The shelves are removable for easy access, or if you need to put some tall models in there. The letter tray snugly fits in the pet bag, with a little space behind it where you can put books, dice and what have you. The only downside of this is that it's pretty heavy.  Here is the end result - It easily fits my 2k Eldar list, including big tanks and hover things, with room to spare.
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Feb 14, 2023 11:45
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I tried magnetizing mini bases to store them like that. Worked OK with most stuff, then I tried it with hormagaunts. Every one of those fiddly bastards would stick to the one next to them on the table top if they got too close. Turned in to a Katamari of hormagaunts.
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Feb 14, 2023 13:31
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Al-Saqr posted:ok thanks I use the magnetic sheets you have, and Geisladisk is spot on: the magnets have to be touching the sheet for there to be any solid hold. How I do it is put a sheet down on a table, and put a piece of parchment paper over it, then put my magnets down spread out over it. Then I put a very generous blob of hot glue on top of a magnet, then put a mini down on top of the glue, and press down for a few seconds. The magnet is guaranteed to be in contact with the sheet, and the hot glue will flow all around it when you press down the base, making a very secure bond. You can rough up the underside of the bases as well for bonus hold. I forget which goon gave me this idea a while back, but I thank them every time I magnetize my bases.
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Feb 14, 2023 14:47
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Re: painting the bits you can't see on mini. Y'all should really see the wild poo poo gunpla painters get up to. Those dude will paint up the interior skeleton that will be completely covered by armor plates. Sub assembly for non visible bits is the least  thing people can do.I mean, you could be painting in the side of a Titan with imperial chants to empower the thing.
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Feb 14, 2023 15:56
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Al-Saqr posted:Hey guys, I've started to magnetize some bases, I think I've made a mistake of some sort, while the bases do stick to the Magnet paper, there's not enough power to make them stick solidly in place, almost no traction so they're a bit slidey when I mildly tilt the box, I'm not sure what's going on. also, the magnets are significantly shorter than the bottom of the minis, so I have to stack 2-3 on top of each other to reach the magnet paper. I'm not sure what's going on? In the future I recommend ordering from the magnet baron https://themagnetbaron.com, if they ship to you. They have sizing guides for bases so you can flush fit the magnets.
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Feb 14, 2023 16:11
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