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a mysterious cloak posted:Decided to try a glass coating, so I put on Gtechniq G1 Smart Glass. It rained today and holy hell I'm never going back. I put it on this summer and just washed the car this weekend. It still sheeted nicely and showed no signs of breakdown.
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Nov 22, 2022 03:04
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I used aquapel for years on a previous car and while it worked great I feel like over time (3-4 years) it exacerbated permanent streaking from the wipers and eventually made it harder to clean bugs off the windshield. Is this just me, or have others had issues like this?
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Nov 23, 2022 05:58
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yup I haven't found a coating that doesn't make my wipers streak
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Nov 23, 2022 08:04
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I put the coating on at the same time that I put on new wiper blades, which is probably about as optimal as I could get. Plus the blades get a wipe of coating too. Now I'm thinking about ceramic coating the car. Even without a paint correction it would be nice to have the added protection. If I do bother with the paint I'll probably do it myself. Related question - any reason I couldn't do a partial correction and coating? Like hood/bumper/front panels one weekend, roof and hatchback the next, etc? I know I'd need multiple applicators, and I think as long as I close the coating bottles as much as possible it won't cure in the bottles.
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Nov 23, 2022 21:10
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RIP Paul Walker posted:Maaaaaybe but I’d want to see pictures first. I’d be worried about making it worse, since it is typically *really* soft plastic. Make sure to be gentle with your fingers - even pressure is very important. Got sidetracked in between waiting for the products to arrive and holidays and what not, but finally got a chance to try this out today. Tried to maintain even pressure as much as possible, swirling motions, about 5-6 passes. I followed the Meguiar's hand polishing video that uses the Ultimate Polish. I did one round on this piece of trim: Before:  After:  It definitely looks way better, but the scratches are still noticeable. Would it be worth maybe trying the ultimate compound first to have a little bit more cutting power, then switching to the ultimate polish? I don't have a DA polisher (yet!) but I figured maybe just using something slightly stronger but still keeping the hand polishing technique could be a good middle ground. Or maybe I just need to do more rounds with the ultimate polish...
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Nov 28, 2022 04:45
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I’d *probably* keep going at it with more polish. Don’t be shy about using a lot of polish, and since it seems like you’re capable of being gentle you can be a bit more aggressive with the application. The compound will also work and work faster, but you’ll likely need to polish afterwards because it’s coarser and will leave a haze.
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Nov 28, 2022 16:21
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I've got what I think is overspray on some black plasticy-rubber trim on my front bumper. I can scratch it off with my fingernail but dish soap and a magic eraser isn't cutting it. What's the best way to remove it? I plan on using cerakote trim restorer wipes on it after getting the overspray off.  flash on:  Does this look like overspray?
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Dec 1, 2022 23:51
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a mysterious cloak posted:Decided to try a glass coating, so I put on Gtechniq G1 Smart Glass. It rained today and holy hell I'm never going back. I was pretty impressed with the Gtechniq G1-- for a while but it doesn't feel like it lasted very long, even though I avoided using the wipers and tried to keep the glass clean. I will note that I also applied the G1 on brand new windshields that I had tried to thoroughly clean and decontaminate so I'm not sure why they didn't last. With our latest cars I just applied Aquapel, and that seems like it's been going strong for a while. I will probably do fresh coating/application of it in a few months.
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Dec 3, 2022 05:12
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I have a 2004 Honda CR-V. Honda built it with way too much exposed black plastic. A previous owner felt like that was not enough exposed black plastic, so they bought and installed some kind of (Honda OEM) kit that covered the entire lower half of every door with more black plastic. The kit also had trim extensions for the front fenders and the rear quarters. This terrible kit:  I always hated that garbage, so I took it off. The piece on the rear passenger door was loose and was flapping around in the wind and all of it was just looking weathered and lovely. I used Cerakote cermaic coating for plastic trim on it, but after a year it looked like a poorly-erased chalkboard again. It was held on by both the fasteners that hold the "normal" plastic trim in place plus copious amounts of double-stick foam tape. I used one (two actually) of those rubber wheel decal removers that goes on a drill. I did not spend the extra money for the 3M version. The tape is gone, but this sticky residue is all over the car. I tried Goo Gone and WD-40 with some masking tape on it to slow down evaporation. I used both chemicals in conjunction with a heat gun, a steam cleaner, and a microfiber towel, but made very little headway in removing the residue. Is there an alternative chemical I'm overlooking that might work better for this? Should I bite the bullet and buy the $50 3M decal remover wheel? PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Jan 12, 2023 |
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Jan 12, 2023 17:06
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I get vehicles with the Japanese company names covered in this horrible brown tape that bakes for months sitting in port. I have every variation of those wheels and some work better than others. What color is your Honda? On white vehicle I’ve used my lowest powered weak battery powered drill with one of those green scotch broke type pads on it and with it barely moving…like it barely rotating in combo with goo gone lightly go over it. Removes it like a champ, you just have to have the lightest touch in the world and trigger co tell to barely have it rotating. Too much by a bit and scratches and flinch and pull the trigger and burn through the paint After spending 6 hours+ removing poo poo before I go to this AFTER using the wheel and razor blades etc… Works great
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Jan 12, 2023 19:38
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My CR-V is dark green. At some point it was hit on the driver's side. The clear coat on the rear passenger door was already failing in a couple of spots. If I am remembering correctly, the inside of that door was black when I replaced the speakers. The other doors were factory green under the interior trim panels. The base coat on the door with collision work started disintegrating as soon as I applied any heat or friction. I had been keeping my eyes open for a door to pop up locally*, but the urgency of my search is now increased. The paint integrity on the rear quarter, driver's side front door, and front fender was much better, suggesting they are all still the factory finish. *I actually found a green door at U-Pull-It once, but the junkyard CR-V didn't have the same obnoxious cladding. I assumed at the time this meant the trim level was different, but in fact it is because the extra cladding was an OEM accessory.
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Jan 12, 2023 23:13
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PBCrunch posted:I have a 2004 Honda CR-V. Honda built it with way too much exposed black plastic. A previous owner felt like that was not enough exposed black plastic, so they bought and installed some kind of (Honda OEM) kit that covered the entire lower half of every door with more black plastic. The kit also had trim extensions for the front fenders and the rear quarters. Nothing to add. Did it come with Pontiac badges?
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Jan 12, 2023 23:32
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wesleywillis posted:Nothing to add. No, but it probably should have. I get to go to the junkyard this weekend and find the plastic door trims the car came with from the factory. I think I'm going to try something silly like applying carbon fiber vinyl over them before I put them on my CR-V. At least that way I don't have to worry about keeping them from looking chalky.
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Jan 13, 2023 17:30
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Cerakote cermaic coating for plastic trim worked for me on a brand new car. You just have to make sure it's pristinely clean and no other products are embedded and also get an even coat. All the bad reviews for it are due to not following the above I think. I'm about due for another coat maybe but it's really improved the look of my plastic and kept the dirt off better than factory, though it's not perfect. I don't think I used enough either, one kit should have done my whole car they say but I only used 1/4 of the wipes. I'd apply in very good light as well.
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Jan 13, 2023 18:13
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If you are going to have spare try the flame method? https://youtu.be/1uJF7k7faGs
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Jan 13, 2023 20:02
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How well does Dr Colorchip work for small scratches? I've used it in the past and it seemed fine but I'm wondering if there are any issues that might crop up long term or if there is something better to use.
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Jan 13, 2023 20:31
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Quaint Quail Quilt posted:I don't think I used enough either, one kit should have done my whole car they say but I only used 1/4 of the wipes. I'd apply in very good light as well. I used 2/3 of the wipes on my wife’s RAV4 and it did pretty well. I scrubbed the plastic w Dawn before applying and kept it light. I agree that you need good light—it’s easy to overlap and overapply, but two years on it looks great still. It’s mostly garage kept but I’ve been happy w the results.
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Jan 13, 2023 21:31
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So I got a black leather belt for Christmas and now have black dye transfer on my gray leather seats. Any hints on how to remove it without making things worse? I've tried Chemical Bros cleaner with and without a magic eraser and there's improvement - but it's still there.
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Jan 14, 2023 01:15
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Dye your seats black. Bing bong, so simple.
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Jan 14, 2023 01:30
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PBCrunch posted:No, but it probably should have. I went to the junkyard and found a set of CR-V door trims in good shape. I managed to remove them without breaking any clips. I put them on my CR-V and... whoops. I managed to flip-flop the two that go on the front doors. They fit, but the trim piece is like 2mm lower on the front doors. I have to pull the interior trim panels to be able to remove them again for re-installation. gently caress. That's a job for nicer weather. As for the glue residue, I wet sanded a little, then used some rubbing compound and some polish to remove most of the rest. I got a little bit of burn-through in one spot on the driver's door, but it is very small and half-covered by the original trim. If I ever find a donor for the rear driver side door, hopefully it will also have a good driver side front door. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 16:16 on Jan 17, 2023 |
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Jan 17, 2023 16:14
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I have very pale leather seats, and the denim dye transfer was starting to get pretty noticeable after a year of driving, but I just hit it with CarPro Inside and a Colourblock leather brush and it lifted right out. Impressive to see the lather quickly turn ever-so-slightly blue and then just wipe right off. Stuff also did a good job on the
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Feb 2, 2023 22:41
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I take it back, Dark green on Tan leather is the best combo.  
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Feb 3, 2023 20:08
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FlapYoJacks posted:I take it back, Dark green on Tan leather is the best combo. this requires gold or bronze wheels
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Feb 4, 2023 06:37
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Raluek posted:this requires gold or bronze wheels 
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Feb 4, 2023 07:05
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Popete posted:How well does Dr Colorchip work for small scratches? I've used it in the past and it seemed fine but I'm wondering if there are any issues that might crop up long term or if there is something better to use. For me, it's best to get some color matched paint in single stage, color sand with like 3000 grit, and then buff the entire area. Then again, I work for a paint distributor, so that's always my go to.
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Feb 4, 2023 15:28
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meatpimp posted:One more word of caution with the ceramic coatings -- I'm pretty cavalier about doing things. I always know there's a chance of getting in over my head. I've done detailing stuff for long enough that I'm pretty comfortable with it, so I may make it sound easier than it may be? Holy poo poo. I was right on. I just didn't realize how much so until now. When I posted the above, I had just purchased a few aliexpress ceramic coating kits. I coated the Juke, and Avalon, and E61... and the Escalade. I never thought too much about it, looking back it was 2018, so a good 4 years. Since then, the Escalade has sat outside under a crabapple tree getting various berries and birdshit dumped on its paint, and I've washed it like 6 times in those 4 years. I had pretty much figured it'd be ruined, but didn't care too much. Well, the Escalade is back in daily service and I got a wild hair to clean it up today. I took some synthetic clay and lube to it and... that ceramic coating let almost NOTHING make a lasting mark. I followed it up with some Meg's M27 hybrid ceramic coating and I am absolutely blown away at how this 18 year old car came out. It is amazing. I'll be ceramic coating my wife's RDX soon. 
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Feb 17, 2023 21:24
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EVERYWHERE 
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I've got a car from 2002 that to my knowledge has never been polished, it has some swirling and small knicks but nothing major. I'm slightly worried about polishing the car due to reducing the clear coat layer, are sealants useful for restoring or protecting clear coat? Could I get away with using a sealant instead of polishing? I'm new to detailing, this a car I only drive in the summer and I'd like to protect it from UV damage as well. I am getting a rotary applicator if that makes a difference in my options. Popete fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Feb 18, 2023 |
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Feb 18, 2023 06:06
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i'd give polishing a try, just start with a less aggressive pad and polish. see how well that works and then increase it if you're not seeing the results you want. sealant doesnt remove much, because it's meant to protect the paint more than correct anything.
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Feb 18, 2023 07:18
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Popete posted:I've got a car from 2002 that to my knowledge has never been polished, it has some swirling and small knicks but nothing major. I'm slightly worried about polishing the car due to reducing the clear coat layer, are sealants useful for restoring or protecting clear coat? Could I get away with using a sealant instead of polishing? I only used a sealant because it was the only modern finishing product I had on hand other than more ceramic. I don't expect it to last long and I don't think it would do a lot in your case. M27 is almost entirely water-like, with few solids. I would suggest my standard application process of -- synthetic clay and lube first (this removes all of the surface build up from years of rain and dirt and rad grime). Then, use Meguiar's Ultimate Compound with your da polisher. Then, finish with whatever you choose, I'd suggest a straight wax at first, so you can see the full gloss and see if it's worth your time to pursue more costly and detailed finishing products. And post pics.
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Feb 18, 2023 12:34
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How do you all find a good local PDR guy? Word of mouth?
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Feb 18, 2023 12:55
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Ask dealerships. Their cars are getting dinged all the time.
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Feb 18, 2023 13:26
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In my area drive around in a dented car and random dudes will harass you in parking lots about fixing it for you. Jokes on them I don't give a poo poo about the dents.
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Feb 18, 2023 15:22
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You want to find a PDR dude who doesn’t have to advertise. Especially not on Facebook like hey Hip whatever I’m starting to do PDR
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Feb 18, 2023 15:28
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I removed tint for the first time in my life this weekend. Didn't get any good pictures but I used steam to release it and acetone for cleanup. Took less than 30 minutes per window, for a total of 2.5 hours start to finish, including learning how and warming up the steamer. I felt like it was surprisingly easy. The tint shop wanted $450 just for removal. I used a professional steamer from my buddy's carpet cleaning business but a personal clothes steamer would work just as well as long as heat and steam come out of it. When we got the car in 2017, two windows had bubbling beginning at the top edge. Since then, all 5 rear windows completely failed, with large bubbles over 100% of the surface. This may have contributed to how easy it was to work with, because I hand peeled the tint from half of one window. But steam really released it and kept it from tearing. The most difficult part was the edges of the rear windows that had the black border painted on them, the tint stuck to the border better than the glass, so if I didn't heat it enough it would tear at the edge leaving a little 1/4" strip of tint buried half under the trim. The tailgate glass was the worst for this, I had to remove the inner tailgate trim to fully clean it up. By the time I did the second rear side window I had the method down and released the entire piece of tint with only one edge tear. And for that you just heat the gently caress out of it until you melt the glue and you can just wipe and the tint comes with your finger or towel. Then came glue cleanup. One guy on youtube said if you steam it right, the glue comes off with the tint. Too little heat and the tint comes off without the glue, but too much and it melts and becomes gooey. But all 5 of my windows left the glue behind no matter what I tried. Again, this may be because the glue was all dried out and non adhesive but cleaning the windows after was not difficult at all. I tried glass cleaner first and it didn't touch it. Then I tried mineral spirits which also didn't touch it. I then tried acetone and very minor rubbing dissolved the leftover adhesive. Final pass with glass cleaner and the windows look like new. The hardest part of cleaning is the edges, especially the rear door windows where they are in tracks. I still have one spot where I couldn't quite get the rag in so there's glue left behind, I need to wrap a rag around a bone tool and get in the crack with the acetone. Or I could leave cleaning to the tint shop guys, they have to do that before putting it on anyway. It sucks that the headliner is failing on this car, because I probably have to deal with it before getting it re-tinted. Otherwise a bunch of powdered foam dust is going to get on the rear cargo windows as they try to tint them. Just bumping the loose headliner cloth causes the failed foam to disintegrate and fall out.
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Feb 19, 2023 20:29
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drat $450! Last one I had removed I think was only $100 a 5 door Prado, pre Covid. My 80 series I’d like to remove the rear tint and go clean all the way around bc if some scrapes and a few bubbles but not if it’s much over $100 and it sounds like it will be. Did you have a rear defroster in the one you removed?
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Feb 19, 2023 22:20
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Yeah, that's why I did the steam and not a razorblade. Also an integrated antenna on the cargo area side window.
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Feb 20, 2023 20:42
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My favorite story about tint removal is I removed tint from my first Mazda 323 GTX with ammonia and flipped the hatch on the roof to be able to work easier. I dented the hatch in a very specific way and just happened to see that car on Bring a Trailer years later and was like heh i ruined that. Actual content: I'm now getting more into interior detailing of my lovely projects and ended up buying the Bissel BigGreen Commercial portable. Its pretty good for an unheated model. I have some of the Bissell Pro Max Clean from Target and been using that, but I've noticed that I get a lot of residue even with with half-strength. I usually do a hot rinse pass afterward that helps clean the machine as well as some projects are heinous inside, but I still don't like the feel of residue at the end. I do have a gallon of Folex I haven't tried in the machine, only for spot treatments, and am wondering if its better. I used to use Chemical Guys Lightning Fast and it seemed to finish cleaner even without a rinsing pass. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Feb 20, 2023 |
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Feb 20, 2023 21:00
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DJ Commie posted:My favorite story about tint removal is I removed tint from my first Mazda 323 GTX with ammonia and flipped the hatch on the roof to be able to work easier. I dented the hatch in a very specific way and just happened to see that car on Bring a Trailer years later and was like heh i ruined that. Good carpet/fabric cleaners are great. I have a Mytee Spyder and it's a beast, but combining it with Folex... 
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Feb 20, 2023 21:17
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I've had some time to clean things and get old projects done. One of the old projects was my Porter Cable 7335 DA polisher. I've had that thing for... at least 25 years, but I haven't used it in at least 5. Reasons? First, because I bought a Torx DA polisher that does a great job, but more importantly, because the power cord of the Porter Cable was absolutely falling apart. So, I finally had time to prioritize that and get a new power cord for it and get it running again. But, I don't need another 5" DA polisher, so I got a 3" backing plate and some 3" pads and I'm feeling pretty stylish with two DA polisher options.
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Feb 25, 2023 00:07
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How long does everyone keep their buffing/polishing pads for? I use lake county pads but replace them every couple years which is kinda spendy. I clean, dry and store them in ziploc bags so am I being hell of wasteful?
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Feb 25, 2023 16:51
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