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Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Imperador do Brasil posted:

Popped some new wheels on the R. I prefer smaller wheels all things being equal, so hopefully these 17’s will be a little better riding than the 18” Pegasus, as well as being a little lighter.



Also popped a metal under tray on. The R’s for some reason don’t have one, which seems like a bad idea. This IPD unit has an air scoop as well as cutouts for the drain plug and oil filter.


Hard to see it, but it fits perfectly.

I love the OEM R wheels, ride be damned. You monster.

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Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Suburban Dad posted:

I love the OEM R wheels, ride be damned. You monster.

I’ve still got ‘em. I’m planning on getting them refinished and they’ll go with the car when it sells on some random future date.

ThirstyBuck
Nov 6, 2010

Tomorrow

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Oh come on, give it six months.

Did the wife's rear brakes because it went from "grind at low speeds while braking" to "this sounds awful and something is hosed" in the span of about a week or two.

Inner pad was completely gone one one side and the sliders were bone dry. New pads and rotors and I did it's yearly oil change while I was under it. Only one busted knuckle, not bad.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Suburban Dad posted:

Oh come on, give it six months.

Joke’s on you guys. I bought it 8 months ago.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Imperador do Brasil posted:

Joke’s on you guys. I bought it 8 months ago.

Six months from now if you still have it, I'll buy you a title lol

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Suburban Dad posted:

Six months from now if you still have it, I'll buy you a title lol

Keep the title get a title.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Thinking of doing a thing to the Outback.

2003 Outback wagon.
The rear is ridiculously soft. Like bouncing off the bumpstops with my 21-year-old daughter in the rear seat on typical Irving, TX highways (if you live here, you know. They can't build a flat road to save their lives...)
I used name brand quick struts front and rear, and the silly thing just wallows around all over the place. I hate it. I liked the ride of our Kia Spectra5, and my Crown Vic cop car. Firm but not punishing.

Anyone else with an Outback: is that normal? Are they just stupid soft?

What I intend to do about it is buy new springs from Rallitek, possibly in the stock height (but stiffer,) but probably in the 1" lift (since more than that takes new links and such.)
Thoughts, opinions?

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe



Got the inner rockers primered and tacked in place. Floor patch fit up and ready to be welded. Once I fit the outer, I can weld everything up.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Now you've got me afraid to look at my dad's '55. It's been in the field for like 40 years, though moved occasionally.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



StormDrain posted:

Keep the title get a title.

Volvo colored watch, even!

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Added Ford Accessory molle panel. Held on with six clips and a shitload of Velcro, seems like it should hold a fair bit of weight.



Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Imperador do Brasil posted:

Volvo colored watch, even!



What are those stick things in the middle, and why are the numbers just sitting there in a circle around the face? Can it measure your O2 and heartbeat?
I'm not Gen Z, I just play one for "humorous effect" on an internet forum. I'm not even an early adopter...

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I actually worked on a car this weekend! My friend and I pulled the cats off of his xterra as a mechanic said they're clogged and the cause of it running poorly. Idk what clogged looks like on a cat but we got daylight easily through both of them and they looked fine overall, light in color and the media looked like it was in fine shape. So we put em back on and he's driving around again to see what happens next with this thing.

In the process, one of the studs broke, the rest came off fine. The one that broke really seems like it's cross threaded, but we have it replaced anyway. I got to weld a nut on the broken stud and remove it, and after about 5-6 failed tries it worked. What a wonderful feeling when it actually started coming off, then it broke the stud a second time. I was having a hard time getting penetration on the stud, probably because I had a small gage wire and it was dirty. Another couple of tries and we got it out.

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe


Got the inner rocker welded in front, cut the quarter off, and coated the inner structure in por15. Started stripping the fender, gonna slap it on and make sure the door is fit properly, test fit the outer rocker and quarter, and we're in business.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

Welcome and thank you for shopping at Wal-Mart!
I love you!


Passenger front wheel bearing on my Legacy. Literally everything came apart easily, except the lower right bolt on the bearing needed extra persuasion. 15 minutes to get everything apart except that bolt, then 45 minutes of light heat and PB soaking to get that bolt out.

I very much appreciate having access to a lift. I've gotten way too lazy in my old age to do this poo poo on jackstands if I don't have to.

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


The maintenance baseline has begun on the Cayenne.
In the past 48 hours, I have made an absolute mess while changing the oil (all 9.5L of it) thanks to my drain pan being designed for horizontal drain plugs. Not vertical. The previous owner also completely rounded off the 8mm hex of the plug.

In stark contrast, the transfer case fluid drain and fill was a breeze. Redline D4 ATF is an Esso ATF LT 71141 equivalent which was nice. That meant I could get something locally instead of having to wait for an online order to show up.

The differentials were a different story. I have an excuse to buy new tools at least. The fill plugs for the diffs have very little clearance due to cross member location, so stubby 8mm hex sockets are required. I shall try again tomorrow.

Both the power steering fluid and PDCC reservoirs were both at the low mark. :ohdear:
Those are now topped up and will have a very close eye kept on them.

I'm pretty sure the passenger side air filter has never been replaced, or at least not recently. That has now been rectified along with the drivers side.

Same goes for the cabin air filter. That one had a 2009 date code on it...

Lastly, there is now a Tekonsha Prodigy P3 trailer brake controller installed. Tekonsha even makes an adapter harness so everything is fully plug and play.

The rear hatch has been fully de-badged. Model designation deletes are the way.

Overall, this is fun and I'm enjoying working on it thus far.

Edit: No pictures really, it was -7C and speed was the name of the game.

McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Feb 20, 2023

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


EvilBeard posted:



Got the inner rocker welded in front, cut the quarter off, and coated the inner structure in por15. Started stripping the fender, gonna slap it on and make sure the door is fit properly, test fit the outer rocker and quarter, and we're in business.

You want to do the quarter panel on my Cutlass? I have to cut it off and replace it that a to an idiot in a K5 Blazer 25 years ago…

heffray
Sep 18, 2010

Installed PSR rear subframe bushings: stock was rubber that's improved over earlier Commodores, but still moves around a lot. The new ones are aluminum, which does not move. NVH impact is supposed to be zero, but if I later upgrade diff bushings that's where the noise comes from. Price including $140AUD of international shipping was about $10 more than urethane versions, and aluminum should be even better at keeping things aligned.

Process: put rear on jackstands, pull tires, loosen one side of subframe bolts, disconnect shocks & MRC sensor, remove one exhaust hanger bolt, remove subframe bolts on working side. Let the subframe drop enough to put something (a large socket) between the body of the car and the stock bushing, then jack up the subframe and apply heat until the stock bushing falls out. Then clean up any leftover plastic bits, drop in the aluminum bushing, and put it all back together. Of course, the new bushings were slightly too large and had to be pushed on while tightening the bolt.

Old bushings, which I'd planned to remove with a heat gun, but ended up needing my "heat shrink" (usually for steak) torch. The line about "it can't be stuck if it's a liquid" ended up applying to some degree. One bushing was more irritating to remove than the others: the center tore out before the plastic shell started moving, which required me to cut a slit in the shell, and some extra fire to finish breaking up the glue.

New, post-install, since I didn't take any pictures during the process:


I also took this opportunity to check rear tire clearance while the shock/spring combo was disconnected. There is not any spare clearance on the outside edge, and I should probably roll the fenders a bit more and trim the top corner of the mud flap / bumper. I haven't had any clearance issues after doing the initial fender roll, but it doesn't quite clear at this amount of compression. I definitely do not have room for another 1" of wheel width here.

I'll do a similar check on the front next time I'm working on that end: I'm going to swap down to urethane strut mounts, because axially loaded spherical bearing strut mounts are noisy and irritating on a street car.

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


Replaced the struts and springs on the Element. I'm not entirely certain, but I believe they are original. So long passed due.

I used KYB quick struts, and honestly, unless I'm going for some performance oriented option, after putting them on the Element and Subaru, I'm not sure I'd use anything else for a normal daily driver. So much easier than messing around with spring compressors.

The fronts came out and went in without much drama:




The longest part was the CV popped out of the tulip on the passenger side, but I was able to slip it back in easily and the movement feels fine. I'll see how it does on a drive, but I'm sure it's fine.

The rears were a little more problematic. The upper mounts were pristine and the nuts came out with no issue.
The lower mounts are in about the most exposed spot under the car possible. There is not direct shot at the bolt head thanks to the LCA and the nut is a captive nut, but it's also behind the other side of the LCA so it doesn't really matter.

Here's me putting an appreciable amount of force on my breaker bar to no effect.

That's the bolt:


In the end, I broke out the angle grinder for both side. First cuts inside the brackets, then I cut off the captive nut.


I can't imagine why those didn't want to let go:


The driver's side rear had that added challenge of this plastic control box that directly inhibits removing or installing a strut assembly.


There are two small bolts that hold that outer metal bracket to the car. This will be rusted and they will break when you try to take them out. Then you need to unclip the bottom part of that plastic shield at the bottom of the box. This gives you enough clearance to push it out of the way (because that shield is snug against the rear diff).
To re-secure it, I used self tapping metal screws.

Another challenge: finding M14x77mm flange bolts. No one in town had them.

They DID however have 9/16 x 3" grade 8 bolts and nuts. And 9/16 inches is only 0.2mm-ish bigger than 14mm.
They fit right in with no forcing or drama:


(also a new end link on that side, because I cut off the old one trying to drop the arm far enough to get the strut assembly out)

Before:



After:


I'm going to try to get it in for an alignment today, after I swap the end link on the Subaru.

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe


Got the fender on, the gap isn't terrible. I can make this work. Now I gotta start test fitting the quarter patch.

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002

nadmonk posted:

Replaced the struts and springs on the Element. I'm not entirely certain, but I believe they are original. So long passed due.

I used KYB quick struts

Glad the kyb struts worked for you, I had to send my pair back to kyb because they were mis-manufactured and the tie rods wouldn't match the taper

I just did the rear struts on mine and even without any real rust I needed to upgrade to a Milwaukee mid torque to free the lower bolt

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Low boost code, 8.2 NA detroit power, 5mpg, dpf regenning aggressively.



Ayup. That'd do it.


Turns out the intake cleaning I paid for wasn't done. The dealer would have totally caught this busted charge cooler hose. Now I get to spend several hours driving to get a replacement. So much for baselining.
yes i did blow that mf dealer's reviews tf up

gently caress I need my own goddamn place.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Holy poo poo I'd be loving livid

Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!
I loving hate dealers. I took the Accord in for an oil change and some basic recall and (of course) they trot out 2k of """""preventative maintenance""""". Things like 300 dollars for spark plugs, 600 for two ball joints...yeah. I'm still not sure they didn't gently caress with one of the ball joints either because it drat sure wasn't leaking a couple of days prior when I had the wheels off. They really depend on people never checking up on their own poo poo

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


OBAMNA PHONE posted:

Glad the kyb struts worked for you, I had to send my pair back to kyb because they were mis-manufactured and the tie rods wouldn't match the taper

I just did the rear struts on mine and even without any real rust I needed to upgrade to a Milwaukee mid torque to free the lower bolt

These ones fit just fine, thankfully. The only real issue I found is the brackets the ABS sensor wire normally would clip to wasn't the same style. Mine have little plastic clips and clip on two spots. This just had a single captive nut on a bracket. But it was in the right position, so zip ties to the rescue.

Full Collapse
Dec 4, 2002

Panty Saluter posted:

I loving hate dealers. I took the Accord in for an oil change and some basic recall and (of course) they trot out 2k of """""preventative maintenance""""". Things like 300 dollars for spark plugs, 600 for two ball joints...yeah. I'm still not sure they didn't gently caress with one of the ball joints either because it drat sure wasn't leaking a couple of days prior when I had the wheels off. They really depend on people never checking up on their own poo poo

Still love the one time the dealer tried to charge me for warranty work.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Only once? You must not own a Tesla.

Full Collapse
Dec 4, 2002

STR posted:

Only once? You must not own a Tesla.

It was my Toyota and this was the only time I went to the dealer besides buying the car.

I didn't even let them do the year of complimentary services, but I had a weird misfire that put the engine into limp mode, so I took my chances.

kill me now
Sep 14, 2003

Why's Hank crying?

'CUZ HE JUST GOT DUNKED ON!
Started transferring over all the speed parts from my old MINI to my new JCW



Intake and JB+ tuner


Lowering springs and rear sway bar (stayed afterhours with my buddy to knock this out)






https://i.imgur.com/IzGovfu.mp4


Took a little over 2.5 hours to do and drat does MINI love them some Torx and Etorx.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
5 hours and 250 miles of driving later.



loving poo poo rear end ford quality man. The cheap dick shitter pipe clamps are a nice touch on a pipe with a msrp of $150.


Turbo/engine would have loved to eat all this loving swarf.


50+mph gusts and it's under 50F out with snow/sleet/rain comin. It's do this poo poo now or wait till next week.


Bonus. They absolutely didn't loving clean the intake. MAP sensor is all coked up. Possibility that this is causing the barometric pressure sensor code. (it's internal to the pcm but uses map on koeo to fault check)




Motherfuckers.

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


cursedshitbox posted:


Bonus. They absolutely didn't loving clean the intake. MAP sensor is all coked up. Possibility that this is causing the barometric pressure sensor code. (it's internal to the pcm but uses map on koeo to fault check)




Motherfuckers.

loving reverse those charges. What a bunch of useless toolbags.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

nadmonk posted:

loving reverse those charges. What a bunch of useless toolbags.

I'm fuckin considering it. I don't wanna gently caress the poor bastard that did do the like 3/10 things though.

Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!
I mean if he didn't complete the work I wouldn't feel bad about it at all

nadmonk
Nov 26, 2017

The spice must flow in and through me.
The fire will cleanse me body and soul.


cursedshitbox posted:

I'm fuckin considering it. I don't wanna gently caress the poor bastard that did do the like 3/10 things though.

Probably the same bastard that slacked off on the rest.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

nadmonk posted:

Probably the same bastard that slacked off on the rest.

Was just gonna say that. And if you got billed for it, he got paid for it.

Unless you're talking about the grease monkey that changed the oil, those guys are usually paid hourly tho.

happyscrappyheropup
Oct 13, 2005

mark it zero
Replaced the mounts and frame pads on my 1972 C10 Suburban. New headers necessitated replacing the mount frame pad to clear the #2 primary. I don't think the motor mounts were original pieces on my truck, but they are decades old.







I should probably look at my trans mount, too.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Battery poo poo out, to the point that I wasn't able to easily jump it. Walked to Costco to get a battery, took an Uber back, managed to jump the car off the new battery (didn't have tools to change it in a bank parking lot). Put the new battery in the trunk for the drive home.

Got home, and as my finger hits the start/stop button, "wait... there's no way to open *click* the trunk without p... FFFFFFFFFFFFFUCK"

Pro tip: if you're driving a car with a known bad battery, and can't open the trunk with a key... don't put the new battery in the trunk for the drive home. :sigh: Car went completely dead as soon as the engine stopped.

Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!
Welp. My little project just got an express lane ticket courtesy of Municipal Code Enforcement. :rice:

also i just noticed that i was shipped two right hand lower control arms instead of a left and a right. neat

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Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!
Got the passenger side reassembled today. Went shockingly smoothly too. The ol' undercarriage is lookin' mighty sexy now



tomorrow: driver side

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