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Mrs. Dash posted:Well the idea isn't really to give me something to do right after she's born so much as develop over time some hobbies I can introduce her to when she's a little older so she has a chance learn more interests than just screen time. Nice congrats on the baby 👍
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# ? Feb 21, 2023 17:16 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 08:56 |
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Al-Saqr posted:Something tells me that you will not have much time with a brand new baby to sit and paint minis
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# ? Feb 21, 2023 17:42 |
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Finished this up for the OPR painting contest. I don't have any illusions of it winning, but it was a blast to push myself. I think it's the best mini I've painted so far
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# ? Feb 21, 2023 18:26 |
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speaking of kids and mini painting, I gave my friend's four year old a Reaper Clubtail and he's not half bad the "branching" effect he got between the back plates and the legs is quite neat (even if it's entirely by accident)
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# ? Feb 21, 2023 18:32 |
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My suggestion for getting started cheaply and easily is to start with the Vallejo 16 game color set https://a.co/d/5glPOzh This gives you pretty much all the paints you need to get started without any that will get wasted. If you're painting something specific like say Blood Angels, then you can pick up the individual extra colors you need for them. Grab some Golden Taklon watercolor brushes in size 0,1,2 and a can of black spray primer. For washes, I recommend Army Painter Soft Tone, Heavy Tone and Dark Tone. That's a light brown, dark brown and black which will get you really far. If you're painting green skins, like orks, then AP green tone, or any of the Citadel green shades will be all you need.
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# ? Feb 21, 2023 18:54 |
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Al-Saqr posted:Something tells me that you will not have much time with a brand new baby to sit and paint minis The first year of a baby's life you actually have a surprising amount of free time. The problem is that free time is never in chunks of more than an hour or so and you're always exhausted. Mini painting is actually a pretty good hobby for a new parent because it doesn't require you to commit a long unbroken stretch of time to it, you can do it for a few minutes and then wash the brush and softly curse to yourself when that little fucker wakes up early from one of it's many naps and starts wailing. The next couple of years after that you have less free time because they still require constant attention but don't sleep as much.
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# ? Feb 21, 2023 19:15 |
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GreenBuckanneer posted:How did I do? Took about...maybe 5 hours not including photography and playing around with the camera and settings and whatnot. Looks great!
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# ? Feb 21, 2023 19:34 |
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NinjaDebugger posted:Artist acrylics are generally cheaper per ml and just as good in most cases and better for mixing. I've switched to using Jerry's Artarama I have to say, ive switched to heavy body artists acrylics, ive used both golden heavy body and holbein heavy body acrylic and im not switching back. The colous are so much smoother and go on way nicer. Also waaay cheaper.
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# ? Feb 21, 2023 22:00 |
My Spirit Otter posted:I have to say, ive switched to heavy body artists acrylics, ive used both golden heavy body and holbein heavy body acrylic and im not switching back. Same, especially since I got a lot of golden heavy body acrylics off ebay for uh... $170. 11 of them turned out to be duplicates/triplicates (I will never run out of Dioxyzine purple or cadmium red medium) but 39 two ounce tubes of heavy body acrylic for $170 is still stupid value. Only cost me 70 from Jerry's to plug the holes the collection had.
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# ? Feb 21, 2023 22:02 |
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Al-Saqr posted:Something tells me that you will not have much time with a brand new baby to sit and paint minis More time than you’d think! My baby loves sitting down with me while we do hobby time; kids love watching their parents. I get a solid half hour out of it daily, plus she LOVES holding the instructions, boxes, and (empty) sprues. I don’t do assembly around her because of the fumes from glue and cement, but cutting and cleaning bits to get them ready for batch assembly and also doing simple predictable paint work is a treat. Obviously this is prone to being interrupted at any time, but that is kind of what’s cool about it. Most hobby things can be interrupted.
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# ? Feb 21, 2023 22:27 |
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NinjaDebugger posted:Same, especially since I got a lot of golden heavy body acrylics off ebay for uh... $170. 11 of them turned out to be duplicates/triplicates (I will never run out of Dioxyzine purple or cadmium red medium) but 39 two ounce tubes of heavy body acrylic for $170 is still stupid value. Only cost me 70 from Jerry's to plug the holes the collection had. Especially since you can probably paint 100+ models off of 2 fl oz. Just a ridiculous deal.
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# ? Feb 21, 2023 22:30 |
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Are the Coat d'Arms paints the closest equivalent to Citadel's black topped hex pots? e: Looks like a no, a French company made the ones I was thinking of, the bolter topped ones from the 2000s. God I want those paints back. ijyt fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Feb 21, 2023 |
# ? Feb 21, 2023 23:14 |
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ijyt posted:Are the Coat d'Arms paints the closest equivalent to Citadel's black topped hex pots? They are closest to the old white top round inks though, which I think were the same as the hex top inks. So if you want a Chestnut Ink, you're in luck!
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# ? Feb 21, 2023 23:36 |
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My Spirit Otter posted:I have to say, ive switched to heavy body artists acrylics, ive used both golden heavy body and holbein heavy body acrylic and im not switching back. I got some heavy body acrylics to do some textured painting over parts of minis that are supposed to be cloth or leather and found that when you thin it a bit it works just fine for everything else.
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# ? Feb 21, 2023 23:38 |
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I've got a really weird question but I've been trying to use the slap chop method of painting on my space marines and haven't had success with it. I feel like I'm loving up the drybrushing part of it cause the models look all splotchy and stuff instead of shaded. Can anyone explain the method to me like I'm an idiot? or just drybrushing in general? I feel like I'm going crazy because I think I'm doing everything right but my models never look like what the videos show.
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 04:57 |
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slap chop isn't really ideal for marines with smooth, flat, uninterrupted surfaces. chaos marines and custodes won't be bad but primaris marines won't look to great.
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 07:14 |
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Elblanco posted:I've got a really weird question but I've been trying to use the slap chop method of painting on my space marines and haven't had success with it. I feel like I'm loving up the drybrushing part of it cause the models look all splotchy and stuff instead of shaded. Can anyone explain the method to me like I'm an idiot? or just drybrushing in general? I feel like I'm going crazy because I think I'm doing everything right but my models never look like what the videos show. Possibly too much paint and not wiped off enough when drybrushing. Brush that isn't big enough? If things are chalky then slightly wet your brush. A pic would help.
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 07:18 |
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Possibly too much paint and not wiped off enough when drybrushing. Brush that isn't big enough? If things are chalky then slightly wet your brush. Drybrush means what it literally says. A dry brush with some (dry)pigment on it. You use something like a textured, absorbent paper towel to suck the moisture out of and knock most of the pigment off of the brush. Apply gently to the raised areas of the figure (this is usually a highlighting technique). Repeat, gently. I go black primer, a darker shade than what I want, the shade I want a little more aggressively with the coverage, a lighter shade for highlights, maaaaaaybe some light-to-white edge highlighting. This is good for squads, because since you're going dry, the first model is dry enough for the next layer by the time you finish the last one. Easy and good for assembly line paining.
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 07:41 |
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Finished up my Deathwatch Primus Company Captain hailing from the Star Dragons Chapter!
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 07:45 |
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Elblanco posted:I've got a really weird question but I've been trying to use the slap chop method of painting on my space marines and haven't had success with it. I feel like I'm loving up the drybrushing part of it cause the models look all splotchy and stuff instead of shaded. Can anyone explain the method to me like I'm an idiot? or just drybrushing in general? I feel like I'm going crazy because I think I'm doing everything right but my models never look like what the videos show. Slap chop is a lovely painting method that makes everything look like the bad old days of this thread when all the (at the time) newer painters discovered ink washes and drybrushing
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 09:00 |
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The only thing stupid about slapchop is the rebranding of the name of the technique. Underpainting values and applying transparent paints over the top is absolutely a solid choice as far as painting execution is concerned.
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 09:19 |
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Silhouette posted:Slap chop is a lovely painting method that makes everything look like the bad old days of this thread when all the (at the time) newer painters discovered ink washes and drybrushing Everyone starts somewhere, lets not gatekeep miniature painting lol.
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 09:28 |
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It's the exact same thing as spraying a zenithal highlight and then spraying colour over top except using brushes instead of an airbrush.
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 09:28 |
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I've never tried it but I think one of the key parts of the technique is using a large soft makeup brush to apply the highlights so the drybrush texture is less obvious,
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 09:30 |
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Elblanco posted:I've got a really weird question but I've been trying to use the slap chop method of painting on my space marines and haven't had success with it. I feel like I'm loving up the drybrushing part of it cause the models look all splotchy and stuff instead of shaded. Can anyone explain the method to me like I'm an idiot? or just drybrushing in general? I feel like I'm going crazy because I think I'm doing everything right but my models never look like what the videos show. Underpainting requires a little bit of knowledge in how you approach your color work and an understanding of your materials. Here's how I do it. Warning, I use an airbrush, but you can do it by brush it just takes longer. Steps: 1. Prime your base color. Grisaille, a term that's been thrown around here, specifically refers to valuing in grey, but you can use any color (bistre, brunaille, verdaille/accio, etc all just refer to the changing of your base color/palette). For this example we'll work in grey. 2. Zenithal, use white or white+your base color (or even another color if you'd like). For grey I tend to use titanium white while my black is still wet as it mutes it down quite a bit to a medium grey once it dries. 3. Zenithal again. Hit it with another layer of titanium white from the same direction you chose for your zenithal, just tighten up your radius. This is to further accentuate the light source and lighten the model a bit further. Please note, if we give the scale of tonal value a 0 through 10, where 0 is pitch black and 10 is pure white, I usually settle on an 8 in tonal lightness. 4. Assuming you're using primers for your zenithal, let them cure. 5. Choose transparent/low opacity paints. If they're opaque them thin them down, but be forewarned there are many paints that have a breaking point when it comes to thinning, especially with water. Some paints when too much water is introduced tend to just fall apart, especially miniature paints since the pigment density is already poor. I use a glazing medium when necessary (liquitex and golden make some great ones). 5. Begin drybrushing your highlights. Don't use paper towels to remove paimt, use some painting paper to remove your excess moisture. I make my brush dance in little circles, slowly moving across the dance floor till it's at the level I like. For our grey example I'm again using titanium white. The brightness here can often hit a 10 on the lightness scale, which isn't a big deal because your paints will dull it down. The type of brush matters btw, and I second using cheapo makeup brushes. Avoid the huge poofy ones they love absorbing water. 6. Apply transparent paint. This is where you'll again really love an airbrush. Brushes as always work fine. 7. Optional: want the edges even brighter? Do step 5 again, followed by step 6. Just make sure you let your paint dry. 8. Seal it up with a varnish, dealers choice. 9. Pick out your individual bobbles and bits for specific attention to details, apply weathering, spot/pin wash to your hearts content and do all your excess stuff. 10. Revel in a job well done. The Demilich fucked around with this message at 10:05 on Feb 22, 2023 |
# ? Feb 22, 2023 10:01 |
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AndyElusive posted:Finished up my Deathwatch Primus Company Captain hailing from the Star Dragons Chapter! loving dope as hell. What model is this even?
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 10:18 |
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Captain Magic posted:loving dope as hell. Looks like a converted Captain in Gravis Armour. I thought the sword was a Necron bit, but it's actually a "Xenophase Blade" so definitely still Necron from an the Deathwatch Veterans/Killteam kit. The backpack brazier is from the terminator in Kill Team Cassius Gravitas Shortfall fucked around with this message at 10:29 on Feb 22, 2023 |
# ? Feb 22, 2023 10:24 |
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ijyt posted:Everyone starts somewhere, lets not gatekeep miniature painting lol. Nobody was gatekeeping, all the veteran painters were giving the new kids solid advice, which most ignored and proceeded to make their models all look like Tarman from return of the living dead got caught in a sandstorm
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 11:15 |
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Silhouette posted:Nobody was gatekeeping, all the veteran painters were giving the new kids solid advice, which most ignored and proceeded to make their models all look like Tarman from return of the living dead got caught in a sandstorm Slapchop or whatever you want to call it can give some pretty fine results depending on the model. Obviously it doesn't work on stuff that has a lot of flat plates though, it needs texture to work. Don't be a jerk. Painting is extremely daunting for a lot of newbies, especially if they're trying to paint for a army game of some kind. A method that tells them "hey, this doesn't have to be hard or time consuming" is good, actually. For instance, these Not-Tau I found by just googling "slapchop painting" look better than the vast majority of models I see on tables.
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 11:57 |
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It's just such a stupid, stupid name. Who thought using the name of some crappy '90s as-seen-on-TV gadget was a good idea?
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 12:34 |
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bird food bathtub posted:It's just such a stupid, stupid name. Who thought using the name of some crappy '90s as-seen-on-TV gadget was a good idea? a youtuber called The Honest Wargamer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bH3WGHw9eDw and while it's unquestionably a stupid name it's also one that sticks in people's heads, hence all the subsequent videos about it using it as a name.
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 13:00 |
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Also I doubt that the guy who made a one off video about a painting technique he uses really thought that the name would stick in the greater mini painting community and take off like it has.
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 14:03 |
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mllaneza posted:Drybrush means what it literally says. A dry brush with some (dry)pigment on it. You use something like a textured, absorbent paper towel to suck the moisture out of and knock most of the pigment off of the brush. Apply gently to the raised areas of the figure (this is usually a highlighting technique). Repeat, gently. I go black primer, a darker shade than what I want, the shade I want a little more aggressively with the coverage, a lighter shade for highlights, maaaaaaybe some light-to-white edge highlighting. Nah, you can (very) slightly moisten your brush before drybrushing, ends up leaving the paint applied much less chalky.
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 14:22 |
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Eej posted:It's the exact same thing as spraying a zenithal highlight and then spraying colour over top except using brushes instead of an airbrush. I don't think it is quite the same. The drybrushing of the directional light leaves a lot more darks in the recesses, giving more contrast in those areas facing the light. Similar, yes, but they give different results - airbrushing gives you less contrast in the nooks and crannies in lighter areas but a much smoother value sketch, and on that is more "true", whereas drubrushing your value sketch is less smooth, but gives higher contrast if the painter does the "value sketch -> contrast paint -> done" thing. Both have their places, and yes, it is sad that stupid name got attached to it, but it is not worth losing sleep over. Mrs. Dash posted:Well the idea isn't really to give me something to do right after she's born so much as develop over time some hobbies I can introduce her to when she's a little older so she has a chance learn more interests than just screen time. Other's have given you good advice, but if you want them to develop any interests beyond screen time, do not give them any screen time as a baby, and severely limit it until they are like 8. And more importantly, do not model "must stare at screen" for them once they get a little older. The goon who said "kids love watching their parents" was spot on. We did this with my daughter, and when she got a phone a few years ago (she's in high school now) we were worried; but she checks to see if she has any texts (she actually leaves the ringer off!) and goes back to drawing or reading books. And consciously stopping my own screen time during that period was wonderful, and has stuck. I'll shut up now and post a WIP of my AmBot proxy I printed and am almost done with! (The pink thing in the background is a hobby organizer my kid made for me for father's day, so having kids can help your painting in many ways!)
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 15:22 |
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Where did the Image go?? Let me try again....
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 15:23 |
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Lumpy posted:Where did the Image go?? Let me try again.... Very legal & very cool! That's a nice shoulder scratch.
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 16:18 |
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Captain Magic posted:loving dope as hell. Hey thanks! Gravitas Shortfall posted:Looks like a converted Captain in Gravis Armour. I thought the sword was a Necron bit, but it's actually a "Xenophase Blade" so definitely still Necron from an the Deathwatch Veterans/Killteam kit. The backpack brazier is from the terminator in Kill Team Cassius Exactly this but a minor correction: the brazier is just from the Salamanders Primaris upgrade pack. There's also a mask trophy from a Harlequin troupe master and a 3D printed chapter pauldron.
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 17:02 |
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Silhouette posted:Nobody was gatekeeping, all the veteran painters were giving the new kids solid advice, which most ignored and proceeded to make their models all look like Tarman from return of the living dead got caught in a sandstorm I'm referring to "lovely painting method that makes everything look like the bad old days". Simpler methods are easier to pick up, and build confidence to try more advanced techniques once brush control skills have improved. I've also seen how 'tactfully' goons give advice.
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 17:39 |
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For me underpainting was a gateway into learning how to glaze well, a bit of wet blending, some colour theory, thinning paints, mixing paints, thinning paints, just a lot of stuff. Which you can definitely pick up through layering or however you start off, it's just what worked for me. Although ultimately a lot of it came down to the fact that I really liked the colour of flesh tearer's red and wanted to paint my aelf army that colour and struggled to get good results with it using it in the 'traditional' contrast method because it's so heavily pigmented.
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 17:47 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 08:56 |
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AndyElusive posted:Exactly this but a minor correction: the brazier is just from the Salamanders Primaris upgrade pack. Ah you're right, I should have noticed that the flame shape was slightly different.
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# ? Feb 22, 2023 17:51 |