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The knobs are held on with set screws. Remove them to get to the cartridge. E: horrible snipe. You already know that, and need to know what cartridge. Here in the US I would remove the cartridge and take it to a plumbing supply house, where they usually are able to identify it. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Feb 15, 2023 |
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Feb 15, 2023 17:05
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I've had plumbers out to look at it and they haven't done that. I'm not home at the moment to try it myself, but I wonder if it isn't possible to remove it that way. The alternative is that they've been incompetent... Thanks for the suggestions. Getting this shower fixed has been a frustrating experience.
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Feb 15, 2023 17:27
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Chas McGill posted:The alternative is that they've been incompetent... In my experience this is the primary answer most of the time.
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Feb 15, 2023 17:30
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I imagine it has a lot to do with somebody not willing to gamble on ordering the wrong part and then eating that cost. A standard procedure for an unknown part is to remove the cartridge and take it to the supply store for identification. An unmarked fixture is very much likely to be a cheap copy of a brand name fixture. Only made with inferior components and Chinese pot metal. With replacement parts completely non-existent because it was never made to be serviced, just thrown away. But then it still looks like the brand name part and you try to order brand name cartridge or other parts for it, and take a risk that they may or may not work properly. It's a mess, and unless you charge a flat hourly rate, is not worth pursuing. A great number of plumbers will offer to replace an entire diverter and warranty that. And then there is no gambling involved.
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Feb 15, 2023 17:40
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So it seems my option, if I can't get a solid ID, is to get someone to replace the whole thing and hope they don't need to take down the wall to do it. I guess I should be grateful that the thing has lasted 10yrs.
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Feb 15, 2023 17:46
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So this is something I've been willfully ignoring for a long time through the use of alcohol and denial, but I live in a "forever chemical" hotspot and need advice on whole-home RO. As I understand it this stuff isn't safe to drink, bathe in, wash clothes or dishes in, or even flush with, and nothing else really gets it out of the water. I understand my water use will increase drastically and I will need tanks, pumps, pre and post filters, remineralizer, UV, etc. but I was wondering if anyone here had experience with the actual process or residential systems. I was in charge of a marine RO unit for a few years so I know how finicky RO can be but fresh to fresh has much lower membrane pressures so at least I have that going for me in a home setup.
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Feb 15, 2023 21:26
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Just move
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Feb 15, 2023 21:38
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Nitrox posted:Just move I cannot move, for personal and financial reasons that would cause moving to cost more than the full cost of almost any conceivable system. The lifetime cost of a move would probably be in the low 7 figures all else being equal.
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Feb 15, 2023 21:42
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You can't even flush your toilet with this water? Call the EPA. This is exactly what the Superfund was created to deal with. If it's truly that bad and it can't be reasonably remediated, they will give you money to move.
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Feb 15, 2023 21:50
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Sagebrush posted:You can't even flush your toilet with this water? Call the EPA. This is exactly what the Superfund was created to deal with. If it's truly that bad and it can't be reasonably remediated, they will give you money to move. I can flush with it safely (except for inhaled atomized flushing water) and potentially bathe (the science is unclear but why risk it, and kids tend to drink the shower/bathwater) but pretty much the whole state of NC is at dangerous levels, thousands of times the new legal limits.
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Feb 15, 2023 21:57
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well my septic is hosed. the outgoing baffle fell off??
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Feb 15, 2023 23:39
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slurm posted:So this is something I've been willfully ignoring for a long time through the use of alcohol and denial, but I live in a "forever chemical" hotspot and need advice on whole-home RO. As I understand it this stuff isn't safe to drink, bathe in, wash clothes or dishes in, or even flush with, and nothing else really gets it out of the water. I understand my water use will increase drastically and I will need tanks, pumps, pre and post filters, remineralizer, UV, etc. but I was wondering if anyone here had experience with the actual process or residential systems. I was in charge of a marine RO unit for a few years so I know how finicky RO can be but fresh to fresh has much lower membrane pressures so at least I have that going for me in a home setup. Have you sent off any samples to see if they show up in your water? That would be step one for me, and if the samples are clean draw up a monitoring plan to do them regularly to make sure nothing has changed.
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Feb 16, 2023 00:27
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McGurk posted:well my septic is hosed. the outgoing baffle fell off?? That's a replaceable part. If that's all that's wrong it's really not a big deal. I mean, providing you've been keeping up with maintenance so that you know this didn't happen like 15 years ago and now you leech field is blown from solids passing into it. Because that's the kind of thing that starts to get real spendy.
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Feb 16, 2023 01:06
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Motronic posted:That's a replaceable part. If that's all that's wrong it's really not a big deal. Nah, it was inspected last year before we moved and was fine. Just getting quotes for pumping + replacement is approaching like $1000 from what I can tell though.
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Feb 16, 2023 01:13
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McGurk posted:pumping + replacement is approaching like $1000 from what I can tell though. This is what I mean by "not a big deal" in the realm of septic and septic repairs. Most things that go very wrong are 5 figures.
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Feb 16, 2023 01:16
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Motronic posted:This is what I mean by "not a big deal" in the realm of septic and septic repairs. Yeah, I mean it could always be worse. The leach field seems fine but there was a clog towards the house. I learned a lot about our system trying to figure this out and hunt around for the cleanouts and d-box. Poop is gross.
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Feb 16, 2023 01:23
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What should I use on the threads of stainless BSPP fittings to prevent galling? Locktite 592 applied sparingly? I'm also looking for a fitting I know exists but can't find in the swagelok, parker, or mcmaster catalogs. Think of a 1/2" NPT hex nipple but one side also has an internal compression fitting for 1/4" tubing. I know it exists because it's part of an assembly I had to disassemble once, you install the fitting on a ball valve and can install or swap out a temperature probe without having to drain the system. Just a few drops of liquid until you tighten the compression fitting and then you can install the weatherhead over it. I'm starting to think it was something they had a machine shop make.
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Feb 17, 2023 23:23
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SpeedFreek posted:What should I use on the threads of stainless BSPP fittings to prevent galling? Locktite 592 applied sparingly? Are you talking about these things for adjusting the probe depth? https://www.mcmaster.com/products/rtds/adjustable-thermocouple-and-rtd-compression-fittings/ In the probe swapping application generally I have just seen a thermowell https://www.mcmaster.com/products/thermowells/ like this but you can't valve it off necessarily unless you built an abomination. As for the BSPP if you're making a normal BSPP connection on a gasket or seal of some kind you just need to use a compatible lubricant on the threads to prevent galling, as opposed to a thread sealant. Your seal provides the sealing, as opposed to threads. slurm fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Feb 17, 2023 |
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Feb 17, 2023 23:32
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It's like a hex nipple, 1/2 NPT thread on both sides with a female thread inside one end for the compression fitting, I need to be able to mount a weatherhead on the outside part for the wiring connections. I'd prefer to use cut to length RTDs over fixed length welded probes because I have a ton of them and could install to the ideal depth. Edit: this can also be used in those wet and dry thermal wells that you can rotate to fill with liquid for faster thermal response. For the BSPP threads I mentioned 592 because I have it and it's intended for use with stainless, wouldn't be using it for sealing. What kind of lubricant should be used on the threads is what I really meant to ask. SpeedFreek fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Feb 18, 2023 |
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Feb 18, 2023 00:10
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SpeedFreek posted:It's like a hex nipple, 1/2 NPT thread on both sides with a female thread inside one end for the compression fitting, I need to be able to mount a weatherhead on the outside part for the wiring connections. I'd prefer to use cut to length RTDs over fixed length welded probes because I have a ton of them and could install to the ideal depth. If the 592 is easy to disassemble I can't imagine it will hinder you here. I have never used it myself. Anything stainless I just use a nickel or nonmetallic anti-seize that is otherwise compatible with my system (I understand that copper can cause issues with stainless sometimes and so the manufacturers tend to recommend against it). edit: so it's a 1/2 NPT male x 1/2 NPT male nipple, with a 1/4 ??? port on one side, and then you screw your 1/4 pipe thread to whatever mm compression adapter into that? And then the head over the 1/2 NPT male? slurm fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Feb 18, 2023 |
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Feb 18, 2023 00:25
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https://www.eustispyrocom.com/spring-loaded-process-bushing/spring-loaded-process-bushing Something like this? I see these from various vendors, you might want to contact your cut-to-length RTD vendor if this is what you mean.
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Feb 18, 2023 01:22
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Howdy all, I moved into a home last year that was a rental for at least 20 years maybe more. Landlord did fuckall to update anything and I'm continually finding weird hacked together stuff. Don't have a lot of experience plumbing, but I have a lot of DIY experience and a can-do attitude. I share this bathtub with my 8yo daughter and she always has trouble getting the temp right, and the Hot Tap will leak unless you tighten it pretty hard. So I'm planning to replace the shower / bathtub fixtures in an upstairs bathroom (Sits right on top of the downstairs bathroom). The wall on the other side is in the garage, so I cut an opening in the sheetrock and have easy access to the backside (other than it being ~15' in the air).  Photo Album Everything looks like 1/2" Copper except for the line to the Shower Riser / Tub Spout which is Galvanized Pipe complete with rust. Ingredients:
I watched a few clips from Ask This Old House about soldering and installing copper pipe, and I feel comfortable doing the work myself. I figure it's a good time to pull out the Shower Riser and replace it since it's Galvanized Pipe and is already a bit crusty. The current plan is to:
This is my idea for the layout. I don't know if I need the arrestors in place with a modern valve. I was planning on using teflon tape on all the threaded fittings.  Before I start I figured I'd ask in here and take inventory of everything, anyone have any advice? Am I forgetting anything? Thoughts? Prayers? Illuminado fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Feb 22, 2023 |
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Feb 22, 2023 01:34
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You know you can just replace the rubber stem washer, right?
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Feb 22, 2023 02:35
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Yes, I knew I could replace the parts in the valves so it closes more easily, but it still doesn't address my other issues. Like regulating the temp very well so it fluctuates, especially if you flush a toilet, and I've had to turn down the water heater to make sure my kid doesn't get scalded, but also I cut a hole in the wall and I now have all the parts to do it, so... might as well.
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Feb 22, 2023 05:21
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If you're worried about preventing scalding, then get a shower valve with a built in thermostatic mixing valve. Those are usually installed at the water heater, but they also make shower valves with them built in too. It looks like your new valve set has that as an option, so make sure you get it if that's what you want. Also buy some silicone caulk, a caulk gun and some foam backer rod to fill in any holes in the shower wall that you end up not using. Keep the plastic shopping bag nearby to put the caulk gun tip in when you're done. If you're replacing bath/shower controls without also redoing the tile, keep in mind that your job is to cover the old holes in the wall, not necessarily center your new handles and spout over the drain. I didn't see flux on your shopping list. Also, grab a foot or so of flexible plastic tubing, and I'll tell you why. It's great for draining water from vertical lines like that. You won't be able to solder if water is too close. It will absorb all the heat. There's a faster way than boiling off that water. Hold that tubing in your hand, stick it down the copper pipe, plug up the top end with your thumb, then pull out the water and drain it wherever it's convenient. There's other plumber tricks like shoving bread in the pipes too to block water. Finally, you'll be dealing with holding little sections of copper pipe while sweating them. Use your pliers to hold those pieces and not your fingers! kid sinister fucked around with this message at 06:45 on Feb 22, 2023 |
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Feb 22, 2023 06:34
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kid sinister posted:Tips / Tricks / Etc. Yes, perfect, thank you! kid sinister posted:If you're worried about preventing scalding, then get a shower valve with a built in thermostatic mixing valve. The house is set up in a pretty interesting way, the kitchen and master bath are on the FAR side of the house from the water heater, while there are 2 bathrooms within 10' of the water heater. Meaning that if I have the temp ok on one, then it's too hot / cold on the other. It's just 40' of copper pipe without any insulation under the house. The plan is to put regulators on these two bathrooms (eventually) so that I can adjust it for the rest of the house. You can see the recirculator on the water heater I have to try to address this. Long term solution is a separate under-sink instant water heater or something.  kid sinister posted:If you're replacing bath/shower controls without also redoing the tile, keep in mind that your job is to cover the old holes in the wall, not necessarily center your new handles and spout over the drain. I have a remodel plate and the bathroom has this old vinyl shower liner in place that cuts real easy, no tile (yet). kid sinister posted:lso buy some silicone caulk, a caulk gun and some foam backer rod to fill in any holes in the shower wall that you end up not using. Keep the plastic shopping bag nearby to put the caulk gun tip in when you're done. I have a few tubes of shower/bath caulk and a caulk gun, the plastic bag is genius, and yes I'll be sealing everything up once I'm done and it's all done and leak free. kid sinister posted:I didn't see flux on your shopping list. I have an Oatey Lead Free kit that has an acid brush, Flux and Solder. That'll hopefully get me over the finish line.
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Feb 22, 2023 09:09
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I would recommend practicing soldering in the garage on the concrete before moving upstairs. Also, you can measure and solder entire combination elsewhere before installing it inside the shower. So you are no longer burning wood and backer board. But please make contingency plans if something goes terribly wrong. And by that I mean get ready to rip out the entire bathroom because I absolutely guarantee you will find additional issues when you start opening places. Rental houses are the worst. You will find things hell together by twine and prayer, because they had to hire the cheapest contractor to do repairs as fast as possible.
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Feb 22, 2023 14:53
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Quick waste drainage question; when it comes to outdoor soil pipes, is it necessary to always have a vent pipe "upstream" of the traps, or is it adequate to have a single main vent for the system? I'm intending to put in a 4" vent pipe going from the main outflow below ground up to an appropriate height on the external wall, but there are some upstairs fittings for a bathroom including a toilet that will be at the upper end of a branch. Not sure if there needs to be a vent further up to prevent issues with the traps or if the lower vent is OK.
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Feb 22, 2023 18:23
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Nitrox posted:I would recommend practicing soldering in the garage on the concrete before moving upstairs. Also, you can measure and solder entire combination elsewhere before installing it inside the shower. So you are no longer burning wood and backer board. Thank You! I was going to absolutely do a test run of my dry fitted parts and solder what I could while NOT on top of a ladder when possible. And you are absolutely correct, thankfully I had the foresight to break a water pipe last year and had to open everything up to address that oh what a wonderful treasure trove of issues I found.    Due to OTHER undisclosed fire damage by the seller, I had a fire inspector come and lay eyes on this as well, according to them the fire scorched plate "Is fine..." The feces were another matter that was also not disclosed and wasn't picked up by the home inspector, so that sucks but the rest of the water lines up to that point (as far as I've seen so far) are all ok.
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Feb 22, 2023 19:58
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slurm posted:So this is something I've been willfully ignoring for a long time through the use of alcohol and denial, but I live in a "forever chemical" hotspot and need advice on whole-home RO. As I understand it this stuff isn't safe to drink, bathe in, wash clothes or dishes in, or even flush with, and nothing else really gets it out of the water. I understand my water use will increase drastically and I will need tanks, pumps, pre and post filters, remineralizer, UV, etc. but I was wondering if anyone here had experience with the actual process or residential systems. I was in charge of a marine RO unit for a few years so I know how finicky RO can be but fresh to fresh has much lower membrane pressures so at least I have that going for me in a home setup. This is from a few days go, but I have some questions: Are you on well or public utility water? Is the hot spot identified because of groundwater contamination or known concentrations in public water supplies? I ask because a lot of the hot spots are identified based on groundwater contamination, but public water supplies may not be affected (some use groundwater, some use surface water, some pull from well fields that are far away or significantly deeper than residential wells). If you are truly in a hot spot and your water has high levels of PFAS in it, then your main concern should probably be water for consumption/cooking. Washing dishes/clothes is a significantly lower risk, and aerosolized water from flushing toilets shouldn’t even register as a real risk. PFAS compounds tend to be larger, water-soluble compounds so they’ll tend to stick with the water. Your other option for treatment is carbon adsorption. I’m honestly not sure what a home carbon adsorption system for PFAS would look like, how you’d establish/measure breakthrough, or how you’d be required to dispose of spent carbon (you’d probably be exempted from the more strict disposal requirements as a household generator, but I can’t speak for your situation or the regulations in your state), but current industry standard for treating PFAS contaminated water is using carbon beds then incinerating the spent carbon. If you do go the route of testing your water at home, this isn’t something you can just throw in a jar and send off. Be sure to speak to someone who is knowledgeable about sampling PFAS, use the right containers from a laboratory with proper sampling techniques, and send it to an environmental laboratory that specializes in PFAS for analysis. You’ll probably be looking at analysis fees in the hundreds of dollars. Cross contamination is a big problem with these samples, as I’ll touch on below. The reality is that even though PFAS in domestic water is a Big Problem, it’s also in a ton of products that we use every day. Teflon products, Gore-Tex, Scotch Guard, AFFF fire fighting foam…. These are all loaded with PFAS, since that’s what the products are made from. There’s a host of other products with PFAS like certain food packagings. That’s how we got in this situation in the first place, carbon-fluorine bonds are incredibly freaking useful, so they’re used all over the place. If you’re that worried about washing clothes and dishes in the water or PFAS in the air from flushing toilets, then you’d better get rid of all of your non-iron shirts and waterproof boots while you’re at it. Then move out to the forest and live as a hermit. Even then, they’ve measured low levels of PFAS in undeveloped areas that have no obvious sources. By all means, clean water for drinking/cooking is important and you should do what you can to control that exposure. From the literature that I’ve read, that’s your biggest risk with this stuff. Completely eliminating all sources of PFAS in our lives is effectively impossible at this point, you’re going to have dermal contact with some source multiple times over the course of your day whether you realize it or not. This is the main reason why getting a good sample of this stuff can be complicated - you’re trying to measure incredibly low concentrations of a class of chemicals that are present everywhere in our environment. It doesn’t take much to get a false positive. (I’ve even dealt with these cross contamination problems professionally). Source: I’m an environmental engineer working in industry.
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Feb 22, 2023 22:21
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Jaded Burnout posted:Quick waste drainage question; when it comes to outdoor soil pipes, is it necessary to always have a vent pipe "upstream" of the traps, or is it adequate to have a single main vent for the system? What the heck is an outdoor soil pipe? There are very clear tables in the IRC that address how many fixtures can be attached to vent stacks. The number that can go on a 3" pipe is A LOT.
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Feb 22, 2023 22:34
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quote:Kohler Valve Kit quote:Unless you're putting in actual water hammer arrestors, just doing a extra bit of pipe like that isn't going to do much. It'll work for a little while at best, but will eventually fill with water.
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Feb 22, 2023 23:37
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Jaded Burnout posted:Quick waste drainage question; when it comes to outdoor soil pipes, is it necessary to always have a vent pipe "upstream" of the traps, or is it adequate to have a single main vent for the system? You absolutely need venting of some sort at each drain, doubly so if there is a toilet using the same branch of the drain, triply so if the toilet is on the second floor. If you don't you will get gurgling and strange drainage at best and at worst when you flush the toilet all of the water in the traps will gush out like old faithful.
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Feb 23, 2023 00:41
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Illuminado posted:This is my idea for the layout. I don't know if I need the arrestors in place with a modern valve. I was planning on using teflon tape on all the threaded fittings. I want to echo the reccomendation above of using a valve body with stops, I just put one in and it's handy to testing etc and barely costs anything more. I'm using Delta brand. I doubt you need hammer arrestors. Those are for electrically operated valves that can shut full off instantly. Refrigerators, coffee machines, ice makers, irrigation, washing machines, dishwashers. Anything you do by hand is closing slow enough that you can't get a hammer. My outside valve doesn't need it until I put a timer on it and it hammers hard when it shuts off. A lot of the appliances listed don't use water fast enough either to get much of a hammer, like dishwashers or fridges. It's about velocity and momentum with a sudden stop.
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Feb 23, 2023 01:12
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devicenull posted:Note this does not include the cartridge, so isn't actually anywhere near complete. I'd suggest this one instead. It comes with the cartridge, and the valve body has service cutoffs which make future maintenance easier. I was just linking the part for reference. I have the Valve / Cartridge / Trim in hand right now, I believe it's that exact cartridge set even   For the arrestors, should I even bother then or should I get actual arrestors to install? It's not a long run (literally right next to the water heater), I don't have any experience with this valve, but I don't think it's prone to closing too quick, it's just a single lever handle that you turn ~270°  Edit: StormDrain posted:I want to echo the reccomendation above of using a valve body with stops, I just put one in and it's handy to testing etc and barely costs anything more. I'm using Delta brand. Ok, I'll just throw elbows on there then, thanks! Illuminado fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Feb 23, 2023 |
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Feb 23, 2023 01:21
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Nitrox posted:Rental houses are the worst. You will find things hell together by twine and prayer, because they had to hire the cheapest contractor to do repairs as fast as possible. My son & future daughter-in-law bought a former rental property. First thing he did was go round and replace every single (paint-choked) receptacle and test to be sure that they were all grounded. Second thing was to shitcan the microwave over the range because there's a really low ceiling on that wall and the appliance left like ten inches of space above the surface of the range. We found this weird pump in the basement/crawlspace that had been there since the Nixon administration. It appeared to be plumbed into the house main but supplied only one sillcock on the wall by the driveway. Their water pressure sucks (old galvanized pipe - it's on the list) but it seemed overkill to boost pressure for a garden hose. Well, it started up at random one day last week and was spewing rusty water through a relief valve. It could have been on for days, until they happened to notice the humming. The basement's already a dungeon so nothing was damaged & the sump pump dealt with it. He tripped the breaker. It turns out, it's probably an ancient well pump, possibly for an artesian (shallow, maybe 40') well. It's actually on a separate water line than the street main. Artesian wells were not uncommon around south Jersey up into the early 70s, and there are a few houses owned by old folks who still have them. The water is probably a toxic stew at worst or loaded with fecal coliform at best but it's fine for watering the yard, which is probably what the last resident owner did. He's getting the water tested while we figure out what we're going to do with the setup. I have never seen a well pump located in the house itself without some in-line unit outside at the bottom or top of the well pushing water in. There's no well-head we can find, though it may be buried after all these years. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Feb 23, 2023 |
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Feb 23, 2023 02:57
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It's fun, I did the same thing, swapped out almost every outlet and most of the light switches. Installed GFCI's in the bathrooms, none of the bedrooms had overhead lights, so I had to install those. I'm hoping I can get things updated and fixed up. It's a lot of work, but I'm learning a lot and it's a lot cheaper to do the work myself.
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Feb 23, 2023 08:58
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PainterofCrap posted:It turns out, it's probably an ancient well pump, possibly for an artesian (shallow, maybe 40') well. It's actually on a separate water line than the street main. Artesian wells were not uncommon around south Jersey up into the early 70s, and there are a few houses owned by old folks who still have them. The water is probably a toxic stew at worst or loaded with fecal coliform at best but it's fine for watering the yard, which is probably what the last resident owner did. He's getting the water tested while we figure out what we're going to do with the setup. One line or two? If it's a single line it's something in the 80' deep range with a foot valve ("shallow well pump"). If it's 2 line it's maybe up to 150' deep ("jet pump"). Well head is almost definitely buried below the frost line. Easiest way to find it is to jam a fish tape into the well line until it stops - this will happen at the 90 degree bend going down into the casing. Hook that up to a utility locator and walk outside and find it. Or don't - it will do you no good and you don't want to dig that crap up anyway it's just gonna cause problems - like the county making you spend several thousand bucks to exit/or extend the casing above ground or "close" it (i.e. slurry fill). Ya probably just want to go ahead and toss one of these on it: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-HP-Shallow-Well-Jet-Pump-with-6-Gallon-Tank-AUTOJ100A2/205617274 You don't really need the pressure tank since it's not feeding a whole house, but it can't hurt. And this is a cheap and cheerful setup. Note you will need a gallon of water or so to prime it initially. Not a big deal since you have another water service in the house but for people who don't I always make sure they lave 2 gallons of water next to the pump in the basement just in case.
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Feb 23, 2023 14:04
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If its an actual artesian well, why would it need a pump. Them bitches flow out of the ground. If anything it should probably need a shut off to stop it from flowing when not needed.
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Feb 23, 2023 14:24
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wesleywillis posted:If its an actual artesian well, why would it need a pump. Artesian well pressures and levels vary with the season. If it ever flows free it's artesian, but that doesn't mean it always does or at a volume or pressure that is useful for a domestic water supply.
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Feb 23, 2023 14:39
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