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kimbo305 posted:You got it mixed up about travel (but maybe not ultimate effect), per above explanation. Dangit. I posted before having coffee, a rookie mistake.
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Feb 27, 2023 16:34
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SimonSays posted:The levers would have hit the bars and you wouldn't have stopped. Don't mix brake pulls folks Lol even worse. Well, don't have to worry about it now at least.
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Feb 28, 2023 01:22
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Can anyone comment on the wear on these two sets of chainrings for sale? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/454219326800279/?mibextid=dXMIcH Looks pretty ok to me, particularly the 52, but would be great to get a second opinion.
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Feb 28, 2023 03:51
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Sticky Date posted:Can anyone comment on the wear on these two sets of chainrings for sale? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/454219326800279/?mibextid=dXMIcH I'm not an expert but would say the inner rings have pretty un-worn (but different for the 34 and 36) profiles on the teeth, whilst the outers look too rounded off. The 52 does look less worn that the 50 though I think. All the teeth should be slightly squared off on the top (like below) but they seem quite a bit rounder from the pictures. 
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Feb 28, 2023 07:27
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Yeah thanks he sent me some more photos, 50 looks done, but 52 seems pretty good? I dunno now, price with the cranks is still pretty good...but I don't need new cranks... 
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Feb 28, 2023 08:54
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vikingstrike posted:You need to go toward the stem or use the button the other way (away from the bars). I had scheduled a ride with a friend today so I was out of tinkering time and figured I could get by with pull to shift. I stopped at the bike shop at the foot of the trails and they diagnosed a bent shift lever so it bent back and everything is fine now. I'm glad they did because it turns out 20 years of push to shift muscle memory is hard to undo.
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Mar 1, 2023 20:43
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I’ve stripped the seat post clamp on my Domane. The seat height is fine, but I can’t lower the seat for travel or making adjustments. My bike shop is hesitant about working on the bike because they don’t want to damage it. I’d like to get a quick release clamp on it. I’m just wondering if anyone has advice. I’d appreciate it.  ee: why the gently caress isn timg working hadji murad fucked around with this message at 10:40 on Mar 6, 2023 |
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Mar 6, 2023 08:47
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hadji murad posted:I’ve stripped the seat post clamp on my Domane. The seat height is fine, but I can’t lower the seat for travel or making adjustments. Post a picture of the clamp
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Mar 6, 2023 08:54
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I stripped the crank bolt trying to figure out how to remove the Stout Pro crankset from a 2021 Specialized Chisel. I'm replacing the crankset with an FC-M8120-1 so I could just cut this off as a last resort, but any advice for removing it cleanly?
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Mar 6, 2023 19:31
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loaf posted:any advice for removing it cleanly? 
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Mar 6, 2023 19:44
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If you're desperate, maybe try to tap in whatever size Torx bit will jam in there?
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Mar 6, 2023 19:52
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Thanks! Hammering in a Torx just stripped it more, but I was able to screw it the rest of the way out with pliers by wrapping the head with a piece of inner tube. Too bad my exploratory surgery disabled the bike, but a new crankset with shorter arms and a power meter is on the way.
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Mar 6, 2023 20:05
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yeah specialized hosed people over with that level build and glued the crank bolt in and made the bolt out of cheese Had the same issue with mine when I removed it e: don't forget you'll need a new bottom bracket if you're switching to shimano cranks. And you'll need the adapter to install it because shimano decided to make the BB interface smaller than what most tools will use but they don't include the adapter anymore! This one basically I think but then as I said make sure you have a tool or adapter that will fit https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-XT-BB-MT800-Bottom-Bracket Levitate fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Mar 6, 2023 |
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Mar 6, 2023 20:21
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Glad it's not just me. I assumed I was doing something wrong, but now that everything's apart I don't see how the bolt could ever come off intact. Maybe I shouldn't have gone for the cheap bottom bracket but I already ordered a BB-MT501 (for 68 or 73mm, so I assume it comes with spacers) and the Park Tool BBT-9.
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Mar 6, 2023 20:35
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People asking that question won't know what these are called so OP These are called EZ-Outs (maybe easy-outs?) and you should have a set if you do anything with tools as part of your life.
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Mar 6, 2023 21:10
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Any idea whether the crank bolt for these Stout cranks functions similarly to the Hollowtech compression cap, where it's completely passive after the crank arm bolts are tightened down? I just put them back together while applying light compression with a C-clamp but don't want the arm to fall off mid-ride.
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Mar 6, 2023 22:51
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loaf posted:Any idea whether the crank bolt for these Stout cranks functions similarly to the Hollowtech compression cap, where it's completely passive after the crank arm bolts are tightened down? I just put them back together while applying light compression with a C-clamp but don't want the arm to fall off mid-ride. Yes, given that the torque spec is 2-2.5 n-m, it’s just a preload cap. It should have required basically no effort to remove, especially with the pinch bolts backed out. Given that all the threads have had the black finish worn off, it was probably cross-threaded and whoever installed it just decided to keep going. The cap probably provides a small amount of extra security against the crank slipping off in the event the pinch bolts are loose or fail though. Large alloy bolt with a tiny 4mm (or 5mm?) hex interface is like… seriously? I mean I get it I guess. They wanted to use a key size appropriate for 2.5 n-m of torque, but they kind of forgot the potential for interface welding / galling / corrosion…. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Mar 7, 2023 |
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Mar 7, 2023 02:04
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TobinHatesYou posted:Yes, given that the torque spec is 2-2.5 n-m, it’s just a preload cap. It should have required basically no effort to remove, especially with the pinch bolts backed out. Given that all the threads have had the black finish worn off, it was probably cross-threaded and whoever installed it just decided to keep going. Thanks, I just rode 20 miles with a lot of climbing and it's still tight. Seems fine.
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Mar 7, 2023 04:39
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lol that they appear to have inadvertently invented a 2.5nm bolt that enforces its torque limit
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Mar 7, 2023 04:49
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 Any idea if these bolts are supposed to come out? I bought an Ultegra R8010 direct mount brake hoping to upgrade the lovely Tektro on my TT bike but it turns out the frame uses a pre-standard mount. Some googling comes up with this Slowtwitch thread about doing the upgrade on a Felt B14 (https://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/Slowtwitch_Forums_C1/Triathlon_Forum_F1/Installing_Ultegra_rear_brake_on_Felt_B14_P6480893) but the bolts on my Boardman frame won't turn and I'm worried I'll damage the frame trying to get them out. I didn't spend a lot on the replacement brake so it's not the end of the world if I can't use it but it'd be nice to ditch the Tektro, mostly because I currently have to take the chainring off to do any adjustments.
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Mar 7, 2023 16:23
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I just received a brand new Canyon Grail Al 7 gravel bike (with sram axs 12 speed) and when I took the rear wheel off to remove the dork disc, the whole freehub body (cassette and all) slid right off of the hub axle, exposing the pawls etc. It all went right back together, secured by the threaded thru axle when I put the wheel back on, and rides just fine. Is that a thing on new thru axle bikes, or is some kind of feature that retains the freehub body to the axle missing?
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Mar 7, 2023 19:13
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tylertfb posted:I just received a brand new Canyon Grail Al 7 gravel bike (with sram axs 12 speed) and when I took the rear wheel off to remove the dork disc, the whole freehub body (cassette and all) slid right off of the hub axle, exposing the pawls etc. It all went right back together, secured by the threaded thru axle when I put the wheel back on, and rides just fine. Is that a thing on new thru axle bikes, or is some kind of feature that retains the freehub body to the axle missing? Totally normal on some hubs.
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Mar 7, 2023 19:32
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That seems less than ideal for roadside puncture repairs
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Mar 7, 2023 19:39
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Why would you be removing the cassette to repair a puncture?
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Mar 7, 2023 19:41
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Why would you be removing the cassette to repair a puncture? More like: remove the wheel to fix the puncture and the freehub flies off, tossing the ratchets and springs into the roadside dirt ….
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Mar 7, 2023 19:50
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Why would you be removing the cassette to repair a puncture?
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Mar 7, 2023 19:54
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tylertfb posted:More like: remove the wheel to fix the puncture and the freehub flies off, tossing the ratchets and springs into the roadside dirt …. Yeah this
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Mar 7, 2023 20:47
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mystes posted:Huh? They were saying it happened unintentionally and were asking if that's normal, so why are you asking them why they would be doing it intentionally? They were removing the dork disc? Which is, you know, behind the cassette. This is a pretty common thing on DT Swiss hubs and people manage to not somehow throw their entire axle into the bushes.
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Mar 7, 2023 21:29
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:They were removing the dork disc? Which is, you know, behind the cassette. This is a pretty common thing on DT Swiss hubs and people manage to not somehow throw their entire axle into the bushes. The dork disc removal was just the context behind why he was removing the wheel, and actually not really relevant. The question arose because (as described, any way) the cassette came off, with the freehub body, as soon as the wheel was removed from the bike. Not, say, after using a tool to remove the securely attached cassette. Steve French fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Mar 7, 2023 |
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Mar 7, 2023 22:03
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The body itself is held on by a seal iirc, so it could be that it wasn't properly seated before which is why it fell off so easily. I can pull my DT hub body off fairly easily but there's some resistance before it comes loose.
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Mar 7, 2023 22:32
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I replaced the chain and cassette on my mountain bike at the beginning of the year, new and old are both shimano 12 speed hyperglide. didn't touch the upper, lower, or B screws on the derailleur at the time. I replaced the chainring too, went from 30t to 28t, sized the new chain based on the old one and took two links out, as there was a little too much slack. Shifts find but it has been a bit noisy in the lower four gears. I've noticed that as the cassette rotates it doesn't look like all the links are fully seating into the teeth (picture below is a bit past the 9 o'clock position, you can see daylight between the bottom of the link and the ). I think what I'm hearing is a rumble caused by the chain shifting on the cassette as it gets to the top of the rotation and closing these gaps. Any ideas on how to resolve this? 
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Mar 8, 2023 20:28
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Here is the picture of intense clamp damage that I have been threatening to post for a while. The shop was reluctant to fix it because they didn’t want to damage the frame. I want to remain on good terms with them, because they inspect the bike every few months and usually don’t charge. And they have the new part that I need. Just wondering what you guys think. 
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Mar 8, 2023 23:42
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hadji murad posted:Just wondering what you guys think.
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Mar 9, 2023 00:02
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CopperHound posted:I can tell you what I would personally try and the order I would try after being sure I had a replacement clamp on hand: I would do 2 first because it's easy to gently caress up center drilling the bolt and damage the threads It's hard to tell but it might even have enough meat on there to just grab it with some vice grips
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Mar 9, 2023 00:17
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Slavvy posted:it's easy to gently caress up center drilling the bolt and damage the threads
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Mar 9, 2023 00:48
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I'd 100% just Dremel that out if you have a Dremel and can use one without hurting yourself. Mask the frame up so you don't mark the paint.
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Mar 9, 2023 01:01
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hadji murad posted:Here is the picture of intense clamp damage that I have been threatening to post for a while. I don’t understand, is it just a rounded bolt head? 10 minute max fix for any competent shop, wtf. Good quality hex keys or mole grips might do it without even the slightest risk to the frame. And your frame is just aluminium, not anything even crazy expensive - are they scared of depriving the world of an irreplaceable relic if they somehow screw up?
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Mar 9, 2023 01:02
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Ya I woulda sliced that off with a dremel in 5 minutes and probably wouldn't have charged you more than a fiver back when I worked at a shop.
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Mar 9, 2023 01:11
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Being Japan, let’s just say it’s a cultural difference. They really really don’t want to take responsibility for the slightest mishap. I’m not very tool oriented, hence the original gently caress up, and not having a Dremel.
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Mar 9, 2023 01:22
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The bike shop really should have been able to handle that. I'd probably try turning it with vice grips or pliers. If you have a file or dremel you can flatten the outside of the bolt and try to grip it that way. If that doesn't work I'd go for the screw extractors or dremel the bolt shaft like others have says.
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Mar 9, 2023 01:25
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