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Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


edit: updated and much shorter post here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3970266&pagenumber=348#post530225301

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

1) The 13600K is better than the 7600X and Intel's motherboard bioses/chipset drivers tend to be more stable/have fewer random issues than AMD's, yeah. Though right now I believe AMD is in a fairly good spot if you stick to their single CCD CPUs (single die for the cores) so I don't think that's a significant factor currently. A fairer comparison would put the 13600K up against the 7700X which may edge the out the Intel chip in terms of gaming performance, but this comes at the cost of multi-threaded non-gaming performance (e.g. video encoding, compression/decompression, other such things). I think for your purposes, I might recommend the AMD chip just because the AM5 socket is expected to get a couple more generations of CPUs out of it (though AMD hasn't made any firm comment on it, they just talk about supporting it for years to come like they did with AM4). If that pans out, you could potentially do a cheap-ish in-socket CPU upgrade several years into the computer's life. And a bonus for Ryzen is that Micro Center generally has really good combos available for it that beat any Intel deals. You can get a 7700X + mobo + 32GB RAM for less than $600 there. (edit: 7700X + RAM combo + B650 Aorus Elite = $550. you may want to spend a little more on a B650E board with PCIe5 gpu slot if you plan on keeping the board for a decade though)
Although the 13600K may be faster at productivity like video encoding and compression/decompression, I only do that casually so any of the 3 options (7600X, 7700X, 13600K) will likely have more than enough horsepower for 10 years. So although I'm not a big gamer, it seems like gaming is what it'll boil down to.

I hadn't really thought about the 7700X and wasn't aware Microcenter had AMD bundles w/free RAM. Pricing is:
7600X + 16GB DDR5-5600 CL36 bundle + another matching 16GB DDR-5600: $315
7700X + 32GB DDR5-6000 CL36 bundle: $340
13600K + 32GB DDR-6400 CL32 from Newegg: $393

The 7700X is 8% more expensive for only 3.6% more FPS, but the 7600X pricing is with DDR5-5600. So all things considered, it's either the 7700X or 13600K. At 1440p, the 7700X is 9% faster than the 13600K, but they used CL30 memory so the actual difference using the Microcenter's bundled CL36 memory is probably a wash.


The cheapest B650E with cabled WiFi and 4x SATA is the $290 Asus ROG Strix B650E-F but the X670E ASRock Pro RS is only $280. The cheapest comparable Z690 motherboard is the $220 ASUS Prime Z690-P WiFi.

This means 7700X + RAM + X670E is $620 compared while 13600 + RAM + Z690 is $613. Price is a wash and performance is a wash.

AM5 is only guaranteed support through 2025 which might only be 1 new CPU generation, and I won't be upgrading for 2 generations at the earliest. But even if I can get a CPU 2 generations down the road, I don't think I actually would. With that in mind, is this basically a toss up between the 7700X and 13600K? Part of me wants to go Intel because their software is better (see Win11 initially killing FPS for Ryzen 5000 CPUs), but the 7700X is more power efficient and the X670E motherboard is likely a little nicer than the Z690.

:siren: EDIT WOAH WOAH WOAH Microcenter has a 7900X + 2x 16GB G.Skill DDR5-6000 CL36 + ASUS B650E-F (the mobo I mentioned above) combo for $600. That seems like a no brainer??? :siren: My understanding is the 7900X is 3% slower in gaming than the 7700X due to Windows still having trouble handling scheduling across the 2 CCDs, but presumably this is something that will get fixed in the future. I guess my other questions would be, do I need a better HSF than the Thermalright Peerless Assassin and do I need more than an 850W PSU?

quote:

2) The D15 is still either the best air cooler or very close to it, but there are other really good options too now. The Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 has been popular in this thread due to its low cost and pretty good performance (it's not too far off the D15)
What's the difference between the original Peerless Assassin and the SE? The SE appears to be 2mm shorter and a few less fins but I can't find anything about performance. The original is $40 and the SE is $36, and both are way cheaper than the DH15 so I'll go with one of them.

quote:

3) The 4070 Ti is slightly superior to the 3090 in most gaming scenarios, but the halved VRAM and lower memory bandwidth hold it back in certain situations that call for that, such as AI or rendering. The 3090 may also potentially hold up better than the 4070 Ti in games several years from now because of this, but that's really hard to predict. I think the 3090 may ultimately have the better resale value, but if it were me I'd probably just get a new 4070 Ti so I wouldn't have to deal with the hassles of the used market.
Yeah, the 4070 Ti probably makes more sense. The point when 12GB isn't enough VRAM is probably about when I'd be upgrading GPU:


quote:

4) Nothing has better airflow/cooling performance than the Torrent, but there are plenty of cases that are still very good and worth using. The Lancool 216 has been a popular new case for packing good performance and features within a $100 price point (with no extra fans needed unlike the 4000D), and I have a Lancool III that I really like. It's a highly versatile case that can pretty much do anything you'd want from a case, though it's really loving heavy. Fractal Design's Meshify 2 series is really good too.
The Lancool 216 looks nice enough!

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Mar 4, 2023

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boo boo bear
Oct 1, 2009

I'm COMPLETELY OBSESSED with SEXY EGGS
what are people's overall feelings about the r5 7600x. I've read that it runs a little hot but that supposedly expected of the ryzen cpus?

What country are you in? Canada
Do you live near Microcenter? absolutely no idea what that is.
What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Shitposting? rpgs, paradox games, hi-def shitposting
What's your budget? around $1500 or so.
If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? 1080/60 for now, but might upgrade later in the year.
If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? strictly for being useless

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($240.86 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($167.64 @ MemoryC)
Motherboard: ASRock B650M PG RIPTIDE WIFI Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($184.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory ($172.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($131.99 @ Best Buy)
Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 3060 Gaming X12G GeForce RTX 3060 12GB 12 GB Video Card ($359.99 @ Newegg)
Case: be quiet! Pure Base 500DX ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.90 @ B&H)
Power Supply: be quiet! Pure Power 11 FM 650 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.90 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro Retail - USB 64-bit ($199.00 @ Abt)
Case Fan: ARCTIC P12 PST 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fans 5-Pack ($30.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1698.25

this is probably overkill for my needs, but I'm a once in a decade kinda guy. from what I can tell this won't light up like a christmas tree and should be fairly quiet, yea? just a good, solid dadbox. are the extra fans needed at all or is the case gonna stay fairly cool without them? it's been getting over 30c in the summers here now and I'm not sure how that's gonna jive with the higher temps on the ryzen.

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

I feel like the Noctua NH-D15 is probably overkill and you can save money by getting something cheaper that is nearly as good. I'd look at the DeepCool AK620.

Also you can save $180 by getting your windows key from SA mart so you are looking at more savings there.

MarcusSA fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Mar 4, 2023

CapMoron
Nov 20, 2000
Forum Veteran
Hopefully final update to my $599 Microcenter R9 bundle saga. Went to the store today and exchanged the entire bundle of CPU, MB and RAM for the same models. Put the system back together, updated BIOS, then enabled EXPO II. System booted up just fine, and just finished running a full 3 cycle TestMem5 and no issues.

Looks like the problem was motherboard or CPU. Experience makes me lean toward motherboard, but without being able to test the old components who can say.

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Thanks to CapMoron, I realized that I didn't need to fret over 7700X vs 13600K since Microcenter has a 7900X CPU/RAM/mobo bundle for $20 less. Just want to double-check on this build:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7900X
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE
Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix B650E-F Gaming WiFi
Memory: 2x 16GB G.Skill Flare X5 DDR5-6000 CL36
Storage: WD Black SN850X 2TB NVMe
Video Card: Asus TUF Gaming 4070 Ti
Case: Lian Li 216
PSU: Corsair RM1000x
Total: $1890

Questions:
1) Is the Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE enough cooling for the CPU? Reminder that this build is meant to last 10 years so an AIO doesn't make sense.
2) Is a 1000W PSU overkill? PCPartsPicker says this system will draws 574W (not including 4x HDDs) but we all know modern CPU/GPU boost to huge power draw. And if I'm going to upgrade to a 6070 Ti or 6080 in 4-5 years, I feel like the headroom would be necessary. Also, Reddit seems to think the RMx series is better than Seasonic's FOCUS. Is that right? They both have 10 year warranties.

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Mar 4, 2023

bgreman
Oct 8, 2005

ASK ME ABOUT STICKING WITH A YEARS-LONG LETS PLAY OF THE MOST COMPLICATED SPACE SIMULATION GAME INVENTED, PLAYING BOTH SIDES, AND SPENDING HOURS GOING ABOVE AND BEYOND TO ENSURE INTERNET STRANGERS ENJOY THEMSELVES

Josh Lyman posted:

Thanks to CapMoron, I realized that I didn't need to fret over 7700X vs 13600K since Microcenter has a 7900X CPU/RAM/mobo bundle for $20 less. Just want to double-check on this build:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7900X
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE
Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix B650E-F Gaming WiFi
Memory: 2x 16GB G.Skill Flare X5 DDR5-6000 CL36
Storage: WD Black SN850X 2TB NVMe or Samsung 950 Pro
Video Card: Asus TUF Gaming 4070 Ti
Case: Lian Li 216
PSU: Corsair RM1000x
Total: $1890

Questions:
1) Is the Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE enough cooling for the CPU? Reminder that this build is meant to last 10 years so an AIO doesn't make sense.
2) There's only a $5 difference between the SSDs. Should I prefer one?
2) Is a 1000W PSU overkill? PCPartsPicker says this system will draws 574W (not including 4x HDDs) but we all know modern CPU/GPU boost to huge power draw. And if I'm going to upgrade to a 6070 Ti or 6080 in 4-5 years, I feel like the headroom would be necessary. Also, Reddit seems to think the RMx series is better than Seasonic's FOCUS. Is that right? They both have 10 year warranties.

I bought the Microcenter combo and have basically all the same parts as you sitting in my cart waiting to pull the trigger so very interested on the feedback for your build.

CapMoron
Nov 20, 2000
Forum Veteran
For those getting the $599 combo, be prepared to head back to the store to return things if things don't work properly, just in case. Make sure to build within the return window, and do thorough stability testing (especially RAM). Don't forget to enable EXPO to ensure the RAM is running at the speed you are "paying" for. (I say "paying" because the RAM rings up as $.01 in the combo, but you know what I mean).

bgreman
Oct 8, 2005

ASK ME ABOUT STICKING WITH A YEARS-LONG LETS PLAY OF THE MOST COMPLICATED SPACE SIMULATION GAME INVENTED, PLAYING BOTH SIDES, AND SPENDING HOURS GOING ABOVE AND BEYOND TO ENSURE INTERNET STRANGERS ENJOY THEMSELVES

CapMoron posted:

For those getting the $599 combo, be prepared to head back to the store to return things if things don't work properly, just in case. Make sure to build within the return window, and do thorough stability testing (especially RAM). Don't forget to enable EXPO to ensure the RAM is running at the speed you are "paying" for. (I say "paying" because the RAM rings up as $.01 in the combo, but you know what I mean).

I had a friend in Boston buy and ship to me so if it doesn't work 😫.

wet_goods
Jun 21, 2004

I'M BAAD!
I recently completed my build!

https://imgur.com/a/YE4XS1p

CPU: Intel 13900K
CPU Cooler: EKWB Vector 2 Waterblock
Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix 790 E Gaming Wifi
Memory: 2x 32GB DDR5 G.Skill Trident Z5
Storage: Intel Optane 905P (M2), Several other M2 storage, total 4TB
Video Card: Nvidia RTX 4080 FE (with EKWB Vector 2 Waterblock)
Case: Coolermaster HAF700 EVO (extremely heavy case, get a PC cart to go with it)
PSU: Be Quiet Dark Power Pro 12 1500W
Cooling: EK-Quantum Surface X360M , EK-Quantum Surface S420, EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE 200 D5 PWM D-RGB - Acetal, EK-Quantum Vector˛ Strix/TUF RTX 4080 D-RGB - Nickel + Plexi, EK-Quantum Velocity˛ D-RGB - 1700 Nickel + Plexi , Fans (2x200mm, 6x 140mm, 5x120mm)
Total: lmao

This build was a challenge build for me, with the goal of making my first custom loop. I learned so much doing this build, the acrylic tubing was actually not that bad to work with, the hardest part of the build was applying the waterblock to the GPU (which i had to redo because of a bad seating the first time through) and draining the system. My last build was a super minimalist fanless build so I felt that I had to go over the top this time. Planning the layout was really difficult until I had the parts in hand and it changed several times during the build as I realized better routing potential. I kinda regret getting the 420mm radiator to go with the 360mm because while it technically fits, I could have made the routing much better with a second 360 radiator. I have already have plans to update the layout when i rebuild it in the coming years, but I am pleased with the way it came out. GPU temp under stress test ~51C, CPU temp under stress test ~65c, gaming loads are in the 40s.

wet_goods fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Mar 4, 2023

Little Abigail
Jul 21, 2011



College Slice

MarcusSA posted:

I feel like the Noctua NH-D15 is probably overkill and you can save money by getting something cheaper that is nearly as good. I'd look at the DeepCool AK620.

Josh Lyman posted:


Questions:
1) Is the Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE enough cooling for the CPU? Reminder that this build is meant to last 10 years so an AIO doesn't make sense.
The Peerless Assassin is basically the second best air tower cooler, only slightly worse then the best one, but for only $40. It’s an absolute no brainer.

grack
Jan 10, 2012

COACH TOTORO SAY REFEREE CAN BANISH WHISTLE TO LAND OF WIND AND GHOSTS!

boo boo bear posted:

what are people's overall feelings about the r5 7600x. I've read that it runs a little hot but that supposedly expected of the ryzen cpus?

What country are you in? Canada
Do you live near Microcenter? absolutely no idea what that is.
What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Shitposting? rpgs, paradox games, hi-def shitposting
What's your budget? around $1500 or so.
If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? 1080/60 for now, but might upgrade later in the year.
If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? strictly for being useless

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($240.86 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($167.64 @ MemoryC)
Motherboard: ASRock B650M PG RIPTIDE WIFI Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($184.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory ($172.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($131.99 @ Best Buy)
Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 3060 Gaming X12G GeForce RTX 3060 12GB 12 GB Video Card ($359.99 @ Newegg)
Case: be quiet! Pure Base 500DX ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.90 @ B&H)
Power Supply: be quiet! Pure Power 11 FM 650 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.90 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro Retail - USB 64-bit ($199.00 @ Abt)
Case Fan: ARCTIC P12 PST 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fans 5-Pack ($30.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1698.25

this is probably overkill for my needs, but I'm a once in a decade kinda guy. from what I can tell this won't light up like a christmas tree and should be fairly quiet, yea? just a good, solid dadbox. are the extra fans needed at all or is the case gonna stay fairly cool without them? it's been getting over 30c in the summers here now and I'm not sure how that's gonna jive with the higher temps on the ryzen.

-Get a Thermalright Peerless Assassin SE from Amazon for $45. That price for a DH15 is absurd and the Thermalright is more than capable.
-Skip the Be Quiet case as well as the extra fans and get a Lancool 216. The Lancool will come with all the fans you need and save you a bit of cash.
-As mentioned, get a Windows key from SAMart

Consider spending the savings on a better GPU.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

boo boo bear posted:

what are people's overall feelings about the r5 7600x. I've read that it runs a little hot but that supposedly expected of the ryzen cpus?

What country are you in? Canada
Do you live near Microcenter? absolutely no idea what that is.
What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Shitposting? rpgs, paradox games, hi-def shitposting
What's your budget? around $1500 or so.
If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? 1080/60 for now, but might upgrade later in the year.
If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? strictly for being useless

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 4.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($240.86 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($167.64 @ MemoryC)
Motherboard: ASRock B650M PG RIPTIDE WIFI Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard ($184.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory ($172.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($131.99 @ Best Buy)
Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 3060 Gaming X12G GeForce RTX 3060 12GB 12 GB Video Card ($359.99 @ Newegg)
Case: be quiet! Pure Base 500DX ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.90 @ B&H)
Power Supply: be quiet! Pure Power 11 FM 650 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.90 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Pro Retail - USB 64-bit ($199.00 @ Abt)
Case Fan: ARCTIC P12 PST 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fans 5-Pack ($30.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1698.25

this is probably overkill for my needs, but I'm a once in a decade kinda guy. from what I can tell this won't light up like a christmas tree and should be fairly quiet, yea? just a good, solid dadbox. are the extra fans needed at all or is the case gonna stay fairly cool without them? it's been getting over 30c in the summers here now and I'm not sure how that's gonna jive with the higher temps on the ryzen.

Pro tip: You can switch countries by clicking the country selector on the top right of PCPP. That way, you can better see which parts offer the best value in your country. I don't know if you're already accounting for the price differences and currency conversion here. Just looking at your list with Canada selected in PCPP, you're at around $2000 CAD, and the Pure Base 500DX isn't available in canada I guess? Also, it looks like the Radeon 6700 XT costs about the same as the 3060 in Canada right now, which is going to be much better value for your money. Or you can save a buck by getting a 6650 XT, which is also a decent value. As for the cooling, it depends on the case. The 500DX does benefit from extra case fans, but other cases may come with more fans and not need any extras. If you do buy extra fans, you should be buying PWM fans in my opinion as they're easier to control. The D15 is also a bit overkill and overpriced for a 7600X, even when contending with warm ambient temps. Looking at Canadian prices, the AK620 seems like a good way to save $60 CAD. The only other comment I'll make is that you should not buy a windows 11 key at retail. There are goons on SA Mart who sell keys for like $15 - $20. I put together an alternate list with some component swaps based on what seems like a good deal in Canada and the 6700 XT: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/MqdX6r

There's some room to upgrade the GPU if you meant $1500 USD/$2000 CAD. If you wanted your budget to be $1500 CAD, then I'd recommend downgrading to a Zen 3 CPU/motherboard, which still offers perfectly good performance. (edit: though I'm looking at Zen 3 pricing right now, and you're only saving ~$200 CAD by going down to a 5600X with a decent B550 board and DDR4, so maybe it's not worth it)

Josh Lyman posted:

Questions:
1) Is the Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE enough cooling for the CPU? Reminder that this build is meant to last 10 years so an AIO doesn't make sense.
2) Is a 1000W PSU overkill? PCPartsPicker says this system will draws 574W (not including 4x HDDs) but we all know modern CPU/GPU boost to huge power draw. And if I'm going to upgrade to a 6070 Ti or 6080 in 4-5 years, I feel like the headroom would be necessary. Also, Reddit seems to think the RMx series is better than Seasonic's FOCUS. Is that right? They both have 10 year warranties.

1) While I don't have any experience with this combo, it should very much be enough cooling for the CPU. Though it should be noted that the Zen 4 chips run a little toasty by design. Don't be alarmed if you see pretty high temps.
2) Yeah, I think 1000W is probably a little overkill. You could definitely get away with just 850W and still have enough headroom to upgrade the GPU down the road. With the rest of your build, I'd expect an 850W PSU to handle up to a ~400W GPU or so, or maybe even more. And the RMx series is probably the most highly regarded PSU series available right now. It's maybe not the absolute best, but it's the best mix of quality and price for most people.

Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 08:45 on Mar 4, 2023

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

2) Yeah, I think 1000W is probably a little overkill. You could definitely get away with just 850W and still have enough headroom to upgrade the GPU down the road. With the rest of your build, I'd expect an 850W PSU to handle up to a ~400W GPU or so, or maybe even more. And the RMx series is probably the most highly regarded PSU series available right now. It's maybe not the absolute best, but it's the best mix of quality and price for most people.
The RM850x is $40 cheaper than the RM1000x so I'm inclined to save the money. GN testing had the 7900X pulling 200W and the 4090 FE pulling 496W under full load for a total of 696W vs rated TDP of 620W or 12% higher. Applying that to the whole system gets me to 644W, which is an overestimate*. So it seems like an 850W PSU should be enough if a future 6070 Ti or 6080 has similar power consumption. I do worry a little about transient power spikes though.

I wonder why Nvidia recommends a minimum 850W PSU for any 40 series card.

This is all happening to quickly! Thank you Dr. Video Games 0031 and CapMoron. I ordered everything from Microcenter for pickup in the morning since they had the same prices as Newegg except for the SSD which they should price match. They don't carry the HSF but Amazon had free same day delivery in the afternoon. I had to buy the ARGB version for $38.90 since the RGB version was $34.90 and didn't cross the $35 threshold for free same day shipping; I figure that given my excitement, paying $4 extra to be able to build the computer on Saturday and poopsock Saturday night is worth it. This does make me wonder, do I pay $10 extra for the Lancool 216 with ARGB front panel fans? I've never been a fan of RGB, but I've also never had a system with it. Maybe it's worth it just to try, and I can always the RGB cables unplugged?

*This estimate includes my 4x HDDs but the Lancool 216 only has mounting locations for 2 HDDs. I could just attach the other 2 to the "floor" of the motherboard area with sticky pads. What's more likely is that since my 3570K + 16GB DDR3 + 1070 system probably won't sell for much, I'll probably just turn my current desktop into an HTPC/Plex server, in which case I would just buy 1 new HDD for the new machine.

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 11:34 on Mar 4, 2023

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
Do you feel the same way?
A lot of people end up liking RGB after giving it a go. I keep mine off because bright lights in the corner of my eye can be distracting/headache inducing (but I'm pretty sensitive to that kind of thing). And this is probably stupid, because it's a negligible amount, but part of me can't get over the fact that it's wasting energy.

There's also the one time annoyance of setting it up, as RGB can make fan wiring much more of a headache. But I wouldn't let that dissuade you if you're already interested, especially with a case with good cable management, which is usually the case with Lian Li.

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Rinkles posted:

A lot of people end up liking RGB after giving it a go. I keep mine off because bright lights in the corner of my eye can be distracting/headache inducing (but I'm pretty sensitive to that kind of thing). And this is probably stupid, because it's a negligible amount, but part of me can't get over the fact that it's wasting energy.

There's also the one time annoyance of setting it up, as RGB can make fan wiring much more of a headache. But I wouldn't let that dissuade you if you're already interested, especially with a case with good cable management, which is usually the case with Lian Li.
If I’m going RGB, what do we think about white vs black?


Conceptually, I like the idea of white, and I think it would pair well with my white desk surface, especially if I replace the beige printer shelf with something black so that visually it’s white in the middle and black above and below:


However, a black case would also work. Importantly, the glass side panel is currently facing the wall. If I ever move my case to the right, black looks a bit more…bleak?



In the dark, it seems like white reflects better for more illumination.

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 13:04 on Mar 4, 2023

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
Do you feel the same way?
white would probably look good, but that's your call.

wrt to case lighting, I think mono colored lighting looks better than a rainbow of lights, but again that's a question of personal taste and something you can experiment with.

tempered glass has actually been a bit of annoyance for me because with where I have my case it basically acts as a mirror to the screen. and the lancool 2 has glass doors on both sides, so putting it on the other end of the desk wouldn't even help.

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Rinkles posted:

white would probably look good, but that's your call.

wrt to case lighting, I think mono colored lighting looks better than a rainbow of lights, but again that's a question of personal taste and something you can experiment with.

tempered glass has actually been a bit of annoyance for me because with where I have my case it basically acts as a mirror to the screen. and the lancool 2 has glass doors on both sides, so putting it on the other end of the desk wouldn't even help.
Upon further thought, I do think white will help prevent the computer corner from being too much of a visual black hole. In that vein, I ordered the white RGB version of the Thermalright PA but it won’t arrive until tomorrow. :negative:

power crystals
Jun 6, 2007

Who wants a belly rub??

Be prepared to hate every RGB software out there. I've wound up hating SignalRGB the least (though I refuse to pay for their pro thing so it constantly begs me to subscribe) but none of them are "good" or even "okay", you just need to try all the ones that apply and find the one you hate the least. Most manufacturers' software can control most other manufacturers' stuff but not always and their software tends to be on the "trashfire" side of bad. OpenRGB is also a universal option like SignalRGB but for me it wouldn't detect half of my stuff. It's also not got a lot of features, but when it works it at least works reliably and doesn't feel like it's sending all your datatelemetry to some corporate HQ somewhere.

Also look forward to the exciting world of RGB splitters vs RGB controllers. Splitters (one RGB connector in, 2+ out) just duplicate the signal to every device connected, which is also how most daisy-chain fan RGB setups work. If your fans do this and you want them to be individually controlled, you need an RGB controller, which means now you suddenly care about all the various stupid "electrically the same as the standard 4-position-3-pin connector but a different formfactor because gently caress you" connectors that people like lian li keep inventing. Then you also get to suddenly start caring how many LEDs are on each RGB device, because the addressable RGB standard never bothered to include a mechanism for interrogating a device to read that data. Good thing we saved the $0.10 in BOM cost that would have required.

Unless you just stick to all Corsair stuff. From my experience iCUE is basically the apple version of RGB, it's weird and proprietary for no reason and getting it to play nicely with other stuff is a pain but if you stick to their ecosystem stuff tends to actually work with little fuss.

boo boo bear
Oct 1, 2009

I'm COMPLETELY OBSESSED with SEXY EGGS

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

Pro tip: You can switch countries by clicking the country selector on the top right of PCPP. That way, you can better see which parts offer the best value in your country. I don't know if you're already accounting for the price differences and currency conversion here. Just looking at your list with Canada selected in PCPP, you're at around $2000 CAD, and the Pure Base 500DX isn't available in canada I guess? Also, it looks like the Radeon 6700 XT costs about the same as the 3060 in Canada right now, which is going to be much better value for your money. Or you can save a buck by getting a 6650 XT, which is also a decent value. As for the cooling, it depends on the case. The 500DX does benefit from extra case fans, but other cases may come with more fans and not need any extras. If you do buy extra fans, you should be buying PWM fans in my opinion as they're easier to control. The D15 is also a bit overkill and overpriced for a 7600X, even when contending with warm ambient temps. Looking at Canadian prices, the AK620 seems like a good way to save $60 CAD. The only other comment I'll make is that you should not buy a windows 11 key at retail. There are goons on SA Mart who sell keys for like $15 - $20. I put together an alternate list with some component swaps based on what seems like a good deal in Canada and the 6700 XT: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/MqdX6r

There's some room to upgrade the GPU if you meant $1500 USD/$2000 CAD. If you wanted your budget to be $1500 CAD, then I'd recommend downgrading to a Zen 3 CPU/motherboard, which still offers perfectly good performance. (edit: though I'm looking at Zen 3 pricing right now, and you're only saving ~$200 CAD by going down to a 5600X with a decent B550 board and DDR4, so maybe it's not worth it)

thanks for the feedback. everyone else too. I never thought to check samart, so that'll definitely save me some cash. I left the prices in us dollars, since I figured people would be more familiar with it. $1500 american or around $1800cdn.

what's the general consensus around the intel video cards? the 770 might be enough for me if it'll handle games like bg3 or starfield. there's also a 7700x and MSI B650 Tomahawk bundle I can get from Canada Computers for around $640 all together. Are they reliable boards? After changing a few things based on suggestions it'd leave me with this...

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700X 4.5 GHz 8-Core Processor ($442.50 @ Vuugo)
CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK620 68.99 CFM CPU Cooler ($80.99 @ PC-Canada)
Motherboard: MSI MAG B650 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard ($323.23 @ iSanek)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory ($179.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Video Card: Intel Limited Edition Arc A750 8 GB Video Card ($329.50 @ Vuugo)
Case: Deepcool CC560 ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.99 @ Canada Computers)
Power Supply: Corsair RM750e 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Canada Computers)
Total: $1701.18

MarcusSA
Sep 23, 2007

Do not buy the intel card.

Absolutely do not.

njsykora
Jan 23, 2012

Robots confuse squirrels.


For the price of any Intel GPU you could get a better AMD card.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

I would advise against buying an Arc GPU. You are essentially buying into a beta program, with lots of things that are still going to be kinda broken or buggy. They're still sorting their drivers out, and there's no telling when Intel might just drop the Arc project entirely, leaving you with no additional driver support afterward.

MSI's motherboards are pretty solid. Just make sure you flash the BIOS to the newest version to ensure you have the best support for your memory.

I really recommending spending $20 more on the 2TB SN770 I had in my build list. The 980 Pro won't really be tangibly faster in the vast majority of use cases, and it's a lot more expensive per TB.

ElehemEare
May 20, 2001
I am an omnipotent penguin.

Wibla posted:

Are you going to game on your NAS?

I already do minimally, but using Steam In-Home; the NAS does double-duty as a Plex/NAS and the HTPC in the living room, as well as a k8s worker for the home cluster.

Inept posted:

Why do you want an ITX motherboard combined with a bunch of spinning drives and a GPU? just get an M-ATX mobo and a regular PCIe SATA card

Because the Node 304 sitting in the living room has been Wife-Approved™ for 8 years now, and I don’t want to have to re-litigate on aesthetics.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



power crystals posted:

Be prepared to hate every RGB software out there. I've wound up hating SignalRGB the least (though I refuse to pay for their pro thing so it constantly begs me to subscribe) but none of them are "good" or even "okay", you just need to try all the ones that apply and find the one you hate the least. Most manufacturers' software can control most other manufacturers' stuff but not always and their software tends to be on the "trashfire" side of bad. OpenRGB is also a universal option like SignalRGB but for me it wouldn't detect half of my stuff. It's also not got a lot of features, but when it works it at least works reliably and doesn't feel like it's sending all your datatelemetry to some corporate HQ somewhere.

Also look forward to the exciting world of RGB splitters vs RGB controllers. Splitters (one RGB connector in, 2+ out) just duplicate the signal to every device connected, which is also how most daisy-chain fan RGB setups work. If your fans do this and you want them to be individually controlled, you need an RGB controller, which means now you suddenly care about all the various stupid "electrically the same as the standard 4-position-3-pin connector but a different formfactor because gently caress you" connectors that people like lian li keep inventing. Then you also get to suddenly start caring how many LEDs are on each RGB device, because the addressable RGB standard never bothered to include a mechanism for interrogating a device to read that data. Good thing we saved the $0.10 in BOM cost that would have required.

Unless you just stick to all Corsair stuff. From my experience iCUE is basically the apple version of RGB, it's weird and proprietary for no reason and getting it to play nicely with other stuff is a pain but if you stick to their ecosystem stuff tends to actually work with little fuss.

icue used to be garbage but now its really loving good. Stick to ASUS + Corsair if you go this route. My EVGA gpu is the only part that cant fully join the party and needs its own bullshit.

I have 12 corsair devices and about 1000 individually addressable LEDs and it all just works. Same thing with my wifes rig. The system impact is pretty minimal considering my LEDs are all listening to temperatures and reacting.








The triangular tiles listen to cpu core temps :3:

spunkshui fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Mar 4, 2023

TheDemon
Dec 11, 2006

...on the plus side I'm feeling much more angry now than I expected so this totally helps me get in character.

boo boo bear posted:

thanks for the feedback. everyone else too. I never thought to check samart, so that'll definitely save me some cash. I left the prices in us dollars, since I figured people would be more familiar with it. $1500 american or around $1800cdn.

what's the general consensus around the intel video cards? the 770 might be enough for me if it'll handle games like bg3 or starfield. there's also a 7700x and MSI B650 Tomahawk bundle I can get from Canada Computers for around $640 all together. Are they reliable boards? After changing a few things based on suggestions it'd leave me with this...

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700X 4.5 GHz 8-Core Processor ($442.50 @ Vuugo)
CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK620 68.99 CFM CPU Cooler ($80.99 @ PC-Canada)
Motherboard: MSI MAG B650 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard ($323.23 @ iSanek)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory ($179.99 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Video Card: Intel Limited Edition Arc A750 8 GB Video Card ($329.50 @ Vuugo)
Case: Deepcool CC560 ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.99 @ Canada Computers)
Power Supply: Corsair RM750e 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Canada Computers)
Total: $1701.18

Board is fine but I don't think that bundle is a good deal for you. The 7700X does little for your purposes and an AM5 board shouldn't cost that much. If you must buy an expensive CPU, 5800X3D is where it's at for paradox, and since you can get AM4 boards for less than $180 and DDR4 for $50 cad less than DDR5, you might actually save money. Putting what you save into the GPU will get you outsized performance. If you make minimal changes go with a 6650XT, but there's the upside of a 6700 XT if you can save money somewhere else.

Absolutely do not get Intel, their GPUs are not ready sadly. Price/performance has a few sweet spots but driver/compatibility/software is still in complete shambles despite a lot of work since launch. Maybe next generation. Maybe.


I kept your non-core parts - you could also make the above SSD swap - but this would be an alternative for the 5800X3D which will outperform the 7600X/7700X for your listed games and saves enough on the cheaper AM4 chipset to get a 6700XT:
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/jfDxzf
Otherwise a 7600X + cheaper AM5 + 6650XT would work over the bundle+intel.

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


Having some second thoughts about my case choice. Any thoughts on the Torrent Compact vs the Lancool 216? I think I might be coming around on the Torrent's asymmetric front panel. Although I've never loved it, it does strike me as modern which pairs well with the white.

The cases perform similarly. Usually they're not in the same conversation because the TC is normally significantly more expensive, but Newegg has the white non-RGB for the same price as the 216 right now. This would save me going down the RGB rabbit hole while still allowing the HSF RGB fans lightly illuminate the components, which seems like a nice modest solution. :shobon:




Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Mar 4, 2023

repiv
Aug 13, 2009

there's two issues with the torrent compact that tend to come up - it's a pain to cable manage as the clearance behind the motherboard is tight, and the 330mm GPU clearance limits compatibility with the newer giant cards unless you remove one of the front fans

the 216 has a much more generous 392mm of GPU clearance

Josh Lyman
May 24, 2009


repiv posted:

there's two issues with the torrent compact that tend to come up - it's a pain to cable manage as the clearance behind the motherboard is tight, and the 330mm GPU clearance limits compatibility with the newer giant cards unless you remove one of the front fans

the 216 has a much more generous 392mm of GPU clearance
I knew about the cable management issues but had forgotten about GPU clearance. The 4070 Ti I got is 304mm so it'll fit, but AIB 4090 are already 337-358mm so if the 6070 Ti or 6080 are a similar size, I'm SOL.

I had also forgotten the only place to put a 3.5" HDD is in a tray in the PSU compartment. The GN review shows the tray really compressing the PSU cables near the plugs and it's definitely not getting any airflow.

Another thing I didn't think about is the right side panel is glass, which means lovely management of black cables against white metal is going to be staring at me. :negative:

drat, I had actually convinced myself the TC in white was the best option for a sleek, modern aesthetic. Strictly speaking, the 216 isn't ugly, just a bit plain since mesh front cases have become so common these days.

Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Mar 4, 2023

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
Do you feel the same way?
there's the ever elusive fractal north if you want something a little classier. but you'd have to wait for a restock.



no compact versions yet, though, and maybe not the best fit for rgb.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I'm trying to find a PCI-e card that has USB-c connectors AND supports power delivery, has anyone else tried finding something here? I feel like I either find USB-C but then it delivers a measly 900mAmp per slot or it's a card that has 2 usb ports and I was really hoping for more, plus USB-A slots

Overdoze
Jan 6, 2008

Revolution of evolution
Is a Noctua NH-D15 chromax ok for a 13900K? Half of the opinions that I've seen on the web seem to be that this CPU absolutely needs an AIO and the other half says a top of the line air cooler is fine. This would be a completely new build to replace my currently near 7 years old one. I'd combine it with a RTX4080, preferrably in a Fractal Design North (with tempered glass side) case, and use it for both video editing/rendering (Premiere/After Effects/Blender) as well as gaming.

Another year
Oct 13, 2011

the mermaid
see
a movie?
e: posting in the right thread. my bad

Another year fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Mar 4, 2023

Grumpwagon
May 6, 2007
I am a giant assfuck who needs to harden the fuck up.

Overdoze posted:

Is a Noctua NH-D15 chromax ok for a 13900K? Half of the opinions that I've seen on the web seem to be that this CPU absolutely needs an AIO and the other half says a top of the line air cooler is fine. This would be a completely new build to replace my currently near 7 years old one. I'd combine it with a RTX4080, preferrably in a Fractal Design North (with tempered glass side) case, and use it for both video editing/rendering (Premiere/After Effects/Blender) as well as gaming.

This isn't what you asked, and I'm not a thread regular, but I think the consensus is that the 4080 is not a good price/performance card.

Overdoze
Jan 6, 2008

Revolution of evolution
⌃⌃⌃
Unfortunately it's the lesser of bad situations where I live. The 4090 is at least 50% more expensive and the 4070Ti only 10-15% cheaper. The 4080 is the only one that is anywhere close to MSRP.

The Pussy Boss
Nov 2, 2004

About to build a PC for the first time (!!!) and I have a question about flashing the BIOS: when do I do it? Should I put everything together first? Should I try booting the PC and installing Windows first? If it needs a BIOS update would it even boot up?

njsykora
Jan 23, 2012

Robots confuse squirrels.


The Pussy Boss posted:

About to build a PC for the first time (!!!) and I have a question about flashing the BIOS: when do I do it? Should I put everything together first? Should I try booting the PC and installing Windows first? If it needs a BIOS update would it even boot up?

If you don't need to flash the bios, don't. So I'd say build the system and if there's issues then do a bios update.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

It really depends on what kind of system you're building. If it's a Ryzen 7000 system, then you should always update the BIOS first thing. You can do so via the bios flashing button that all AM5 motherboards come with now before installing any components (read your motherboard manual for instructions).

Farecoal
Oct 15, 2011

There he go

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

It really depends on what kind of system you're building. If it's a Ryzen 7000 system, then you should always update the BIOS first thing.

Is this because of the RAM issues or is there some other reason?

The Pussy Boss
Nov 2, 2004

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

It really depends on what kind of system you're building. If it's a Ryzen 7000 system, then you should always update the BIOS first thing. You can do so via the bios flashing button that all AM5 motherboards come with now before installing any components (read your motherboard manual for instructions).

I'm building this and supposedly the Z690 motherboard needs an update to work with the 13600k.

Can I like, screw something up by not flashing the BIOS first thing?

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grack
Jan 10, 2012

COACH TOTORO SAY REFEREE CAN BANISH WHISTLE TO LAND OF WIND AND GHOSTS!

The Pussy Boss posted:

I'm building this and supposedly the Z690 motherboard needs an update to work with the 13600k.

Can I like, screw something up by not flashing the BIOS first thing?

No, but the computer probably won't start up until you update the BIOS.

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