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tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



moths posted:

Magic fire is allowed to burn backwards.

oh yeah for sure!

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I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

Please pour one out for a fallen homie, I have used up a bottle of Citadel Leadbelcher. It served me well for dozens of miniatures.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Now you can get an actually good metallic paint :mrgw:

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

Spanish Manlove posted:

Now you can get an actually good metallic paint :mrgw:

Haha fair. I am open to suggestions because I have been out of the loop. I like the paint, but the bottles are poo poo.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Vallejo Metal Color magnesium

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I said come in! posted:

Please pour one out for a fallen homie, I have used up a bottle of Citadel Leadbelcher. It served me well for dozens of miniatures.

I am so close, to finishing my bottle of leadbelcher

on one hand I am going to miss that exact shade

on the other hand I both have Vallejo's Duraluminum, and also the Pro Acryl metal shade line

I also have some vallejo liquid gold alcohol metallics I inherited that I am interested to try but I need to go pick up some truly junk brushes before I bother with those.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Favorite metallics are the valejo metallic air line.

Great for airbrushes, but more important they have a ton of fine pigment so the coverage with a brush is nuts. Went from multiple coats of whatever garbage I was using to a single coat of VMA silver

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I am so close, to finishing my bottle of leadbelcher

on one hand I am going to miss that exact shade

on the other hand I both have Vallejo's Duraluminum, and also the Pro Acryl metal shade line

I also have some vallejo liquid gold alcohol metallics I inherited that I am interested to try but I need to go pick up some truly junk brushes before I bother with those.

Exactly! It's a great shade of metal. The bottle is just so awful that I won't really miss it. I have such a big collection of citadel paints and I wish I didn't anymore. Not buying anymore citadel paints, just going to replace them with other brands as I go through my bottles. Many of them are getting done with because I have had them for 4 years.

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Seconding Vallejo Metal Air. Don't know what special juice they put in there but that stuff is almost as thin as water but has incredible coverage, both with a regular brush and a airbrush.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
In that very high res picture I posted the tankards were just a lazy slopping of VMC and it took zero effort

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I said come in! posted:

Exactly! It's a great shade of metal. The bottle is just so awful that I won't really miss it. I have such a big collection of citadel paints and I wish I didn't anymore. Not buying anymore citadel paints, just going to replace them with other brands as I go through my bottles. Many of them are getting done with because I have had them for 4 years.

I said that too but then I picked up some skeleton horde and a few other contrast paints :angel:

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I said that too but then I picked up some skeleton horde and a few other contrast paints :angel:

Ooh right! I need to be fair, the contrast paints are fantastic, and because they are basically just an ink, the normal citadel bottles are perfectly fine for them. :3:

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I said come in! posted:

Ooh right! I need to be fair, the contrast paints are fantastic, and because they are basically just an ink, the normal citadel bottles are perfectly fine for them. :3:

I did transfer some of them to larger dropper bottles, but those take up way more space on the impromptu shelf I made so I haven't transferred more of them

My justification is that, in the case of skeleton horde, that shade is perfect for some upcoming skeletons I'm going to be painting, and no other brand's shade has looked good enough.

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005
When I was a kid, I loved playing HeroQuest. It hasn't aged well, but it was finally re-released two years ago with all plastic models instead of cardboard-based furniture. Now that I'm a goddamned adult with irresponsible disposable income, I bought a set and am teaching myself how to paint minis! :3:

My first three miniatures ever except for the skeleton I painted with Michael's store-brand acrylics before I knew any better...:

Door!


Fireplace! The painting above the fireplace is blank because I'm going to paste in a photograph of one of my toddler's paintings there.


Back of the fireplace. The front brick is the same color as this; something went weird with the color balance in every front photo I took.


Chest! I had trouble with the keyhole decoration and ended up having to put on extra coats to cover massive fuckups, and as a result, ugh to the loss of definition. I like the brown showing through the metallic on the other bands since it looks pretty decent when sitting on a gameboard and not zoomed in.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
If I have a plastic base that is a sidewalk, and I want to put cracks in it, what tool would I use to put them in there?

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Lumpy posted:

If I have a plastic base that is a sidewalk, and I want to put cracks in it, what tool would I use to put them in there?

I would use my exacto knife to carve the cracks out, probably blue tac the base to my tabletop if it's on the smaller side and make sure I don't stab my fingers doing this.

Lucinice
Feb 15, 2012

You look tired. Maybe you should stop posting.
Anyone else have an army painter wet palette? I've been finding that after a little bit of use the sponges start solidifying in places and then has trouble absorbing water.

It's really annoying and I don't know if I'm screwing up or if the product sucks.

TheLawinator
Apr 13, 2012

Competence on the battlefield is a myth. The side which screws up next to last wins, it's as simple as that.

Lucinice posted:

Anyone else have an army painter wet palette? I've been finding that after a little bit of use the sponges start solidifying in places and then has trouble absorbing water.

It's really annoying and I don't know if I'm screwing up or if the product sucks.

This is also happening with me although it's still absorbing water pretty well for now. I'm new to the whole thing.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Not using the army painter one but the red grass one occasionally has dry spots when wetting again from completely dry. That's solvable by running the whole sponge under a tap and then gently squeezing it.

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
I also found that time works for the red grass wet palate sponge. It'll dry up all weird like it does but dump a bunch of water in the container, significantly more than if I was just wetting the sponge, basically fill it entirely up, and then come back a day or so later when I think about it and dump the excess off. Works OK afterwards.

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Lumpy posted:

If I have a plastic base that is a sidewalk, and I want to put cracks in it, what tool would I use to put them in there?

Think about the scale of the crack, and consider just painting them on like so:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRv6mweC4JY&t=1353s

22:33 if link no worky.

That's a great channel for diorama builders and weathering enthusiasts. This one in particular is right up your alley since he's scratch building a ruined room with bricks and checked concrete.

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005

Lucinice posted:

Anyone else have an army painter wet palette? I've been finding that after a little bit of use the sponges start solidifying in places and then has trouble absorbing water.

It's really annoying and I don't know if I'm screwing up or if the product sucks.

Try completely resoaking it in warm water and squeeze or roll it. Mine is rock-hard when it dries up, but it goes back to normal that way.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

I’d like to switch out of Citadel paints but feel trapped by their comparative easy sourcing. Are Duncan’s paints any good?

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


just get vallejo

Serperoth
Feb 21, 2013




jesus WEP posted:

just get vallejo

:emptyquote:

TheLawinator
Apr 13, 2012

Competence on the battlefield is a myth. The side which screws up next to last wins, it's as simple as that.

Vallejo did just come out with a new range of contrasts that I just started using. They're called Xpress color

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

jesus WEP posted:

just get vallejo

I might have to agree with this.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Lucinice posted:

Anyone else have an army painter wet palette? I've been finding that after a little bit of use the sponges start solidifying in places and then has trouble absorbing water.

It's really annoying and I don't know if I'm screwing up or if the product sucks.

I've been using it for 2.5 years now to include of course restocks on the foam pads. I just keep mine eternally wet really, don't know if it's ever dried out as hard/dry as it comes in the packaging. But given it comes totally dry it seems it should be able to absorb water fine from that state.

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005

quote:

I’d like to switch out of Citadel paints but feel trapped by their comparative easy sourcing. Are Duncan’s paints any good?

Are Reaper paints readily-available where you are? I'm new to this and don't know how they compare to most of the others, but I like them well enough and they're like 1/3 the cost of Citadel here in CA. I'm using Green Stuff World dipping inks for contrast paints and really like them, but good loving luck getting those in the USA. I had a friend in Spain ship me some.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
Vallejo is good but has been having serious supply chain issues in the US for quite some time now, at least at all the stores near me (Bay Area). I like Pro Acryl as well as I like Vallejo, maybe a little better, and it's actually available across its whole range.

Sundae posted:

Are Reaper paints readily-available where you are? I'm new to this and don't know how they compare to most of the others, but I like them well enough and they're like 1/3 the cost of Citadel here in CA. I'm using Green Stuff World dipping inks for contrast paints and really like them, but good loving luck getting those in the USA. I had a friend in Spain ship me some.

I've ordered stuff from Green Stuff World shipped to me from Spain and it's always been reasonable shipping rates and arrived quickly. I like their textured rollers for making bases. One of my local game shops also carries a fair bit of GSW paints (Games of Berkeley, since Sundae I think you're an East Bay goon like me). You can also usually find it on eBay for reasonable prices or Noble Knight games online.

Muir fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Mar 13, 2023

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005

Muir posted:

Vallejo is good but has been having serious supply chain issues in the US for quite some time now, at least at all the stores near me (Bay Area). I like Pro Acryl as well as I like Vallejo, maybe a little better, and it's actually available across its whole range.

I've ordered stuff from Green Stuff World shipped to me from Spain and it's always been reasonable shipping rates and arrived quickly. I like their textured rollers for making bases. One of my local game shops also carries a fair bit of GSW paints (Games of Berkeley, since Sundae I think you're an East Bay goon like me). You can also usually find it on eBay for reasonable prices or Noble Knight games online.

Thanks for the GoB reference! I'll check them out. Green Stuff World quoted me $75 to ship a set of six paints, so nope nope nope and I instead had a friend mail them.

NinjaDebugger
Apr 22, 2008


Professor Shark posted:

I’d like to switch out of Citadel paints but feel trapped by their comparative easy sourcing. Are Duncan’s paints any good?

I got to use them at warfaire weekend in november, they're serviceable, overall about on a level with reaper master series. I've used basically every brand except p3 at this point, and for my money, I'm not buying any hobby paints that aren't either speedpaints or Pro Acryl. Artist acrylics are better in almost every way.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Decided to putz around with speedpaints again on this model I got at random, with no goals. I think it came out fun



Edit found this: https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/g2hk2b/for_those_who_didnt_know_yet_the_tamiya_airbrush

Now to find some cleaner...

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 13:49 on Mar 14, 2023

Ravendas
Sep 29, 2001




My first mini painted in like 4-5 months? I got most of the Vallejo Xpress paints, and wow do they make things fast. This was painted in like thirty minutes.

https://twitter.com/Ravendas16/status/1635661639436443649

The hands could use another coat, they're a little bit too bright, but otherwise I love this stuff.

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


I'd like to jump on board the "it's been a while" train, although for me I think it's been literally years? Anyhow this thread had literally 20,000 unread posts.

So anyhow, I got all my stuff out and got all excited. Painted a bar maid to get my brushes wet, and then went right for the jugular with a 15' tall automaton with some self-illumination, something I had never tried before. I have mixed feelings about the results, it works from some viewing angles, others less so. I'm happy with the heat vents themselves, and I think without the glow I wouldn't be, so maybe it's just necessary, even if the execution was meh. Still, I'm jazzed to be painting again at all.











Wench for scale:


Would happily take any thoughts or tips on these two friends. As always: the camera, she is a harsh mistress.

For the big boy, I airbrushed Vallejo air gun metal as a base coat, and then did a brighter shinier metal as a zenith thing, then just absolutely loving doused him in nuln oil. Dry brushed Vallejo air rust on (I used the air variant as it went on thinner, acted more as an oiled bronze tint), and then put some of the Citadel verdigris stuff on where it felt right. Hit all the bolts and greebles with some brighter gold, and then attempted some yellow/orange glow from his rib vents and face plate holes. Touched up a few places with more of that rust/bronze tint to tidy up.

Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


Few things to finish up but I'm pleased with this guy. Base across most of the body of liquitex burnt sienna mixed with burnt umber, then equal parts matte medium and flow improver to make something contrast-ish. Then regular acrylics on everything else (mix of Reaper for the bone and black, Vallejo for the gloves, guns, and rags, and as an experiment Apple Barrel for the skin). Needs a burnt umber wash on the deer skull and a few highlights, but I'm pleased at this result for relatively minimal effort.

Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


Bad Munki posted:

I'd like to jump on board the "it's been a while" train, although for me I think it's been literally years? Anyhow this thread had literally 20,000 unread posts.

So anyhow, I got all my stuff out and got all excited. Painted a bar maid to get my brushes wet, and then went right for the jugular with a 15' tall automaton with some self-illumination, something I had never tried before. I have mixed feelings about the results, it works from some viewing angles, others less so. I'm happy with the heat vents themselves, and I think without the glow I wouldn't be, so maybe it's just necessary, even if the execution was meh. Still, I'm jazzed to be painting again at all.











Wench for scale:


Would happily take any thoughts or tips on these two friends. As always: the camera, she is a harsh mistress.

For the big boy, I airbrushed Vallejo air gun metal as a base coat, and then did a brighter shinier metal as a zenith thing, then just absolutely loving doused him in nuln oil. Dry brushed Vallejo air rust on (I used the air variant as it went on thinner, acted more as an oiled bronze tint), and then put some of the Citadel verdigris stuff on where it felt right. Hit all the bolts and greebles with some brighter gold, and then attempted some yellow/orange glow from his rib vents and face plate holes. Touched up a few places with more of that rust/bronze tint to tidy up.

This is a very good robut

Under 15
Jan 6, 2005

Mr. Helsbecter will you please stop shooting I am on the phone




I finally got a leather look that I like, just need to do something interesting with the base.

For the guy further up in the page, I use all reaper paints. They aren't the best paints in the universe, but they are cheap and available and easy to use. If you invest in a good black and a good white and then all the rest Reaper I don't think you'd be disappointed.

Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


Reaper are very solid. Base of my painting collection is still a Reaper case I got cheap about two years ago. Decent, flat, and pretty opaque. Their silver is dogshit though.

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Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


My paint set is like 2/3 reaper thanks to their bones kickstarters that I can’t stop buying in to.

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