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Panty Saluter posted:Up your rear end, which is where you can cram the attitude. lmao irl
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Mar 1, 2023 20:16
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| # ? May 10, 2024 07:11 |
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 I wonder why the Acty catalyst light was always illuminated? I bodged it together for now and the light went off. I don’t want to spend $100 on a new one but if my fix fails I guess I will.
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Mar 1, 2023 23:35
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edit: nope, never mind. Letting it drop.
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Mar 2, 2023 01:04
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How bout you drop it up your rear end? Rrrawr I'm hardmad on the internet!
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Mar 3, 2023 00:58
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Dude, really?
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Mar 3, 2023 19:57
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I laughed 
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Mar 3, 2023 20:49
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Coincidentally, dropping something up your rear end is only possible if you're upside down. It's a Jeep thing, you wouldn't understand.
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Mar 3, 2023 20:51
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Hardmad is such a good descriptor
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Mar 3, 2023 20:52
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trying to work up the motivation to get up early Saturday and replace 4 engine mounts but ehhhhhh Ehhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh Either that or just do the valve cover gasket and call it an accomplishment...
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Mar 3, 2023 21:34
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Fifty Three posted:Coincidentally, dropping something up your rear end is only possible if you're upside down. It's a Jeep thing, you wouldn't understand. it's hard to do with all the ducks up there.
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Mar 4, 2023 00:01
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Ditched these. Context: Just bought a Gen 3 Prius and the HV battery wasn't doing so good. So I got rid of the original heavy-as-gently caress NiMH batteries for these bad boys:  New ones are lithium (LiFePO4, to be exact) so better gas mileage and slightly more pep, plus I get to drive a bit longer on battery power alone, kinda like the Prius Plug-in. Pro-tip: Taking the whole tray out with the old batteries intact is one of those "bring a friend and buy them a beer" kind of deals.
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Mar 5, 2023 02:25
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  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgLHUEiCgFE Much, much better. I couldn't get this thing started at all lately. Most of it was probably the batteries going but new glow plug harness+new starter have really made me happy. New modern alternator is on the way as well. edit: post of the vehicle in question since i don't post here terribly often 
Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Mar 5, 2023 |
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Mar 5, 2023 22:03
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Fairly simple project: even after bumping up to 6 piston calipers (Bremo/GM parts bin upgrade), track pad lifetime is looking worrisome. I haven't had any fade issues, but it seems likely that lower temperatures would help things last longer. I'd previously tried Porsche GT3 control arm scoops, but they didn't catch much airflow and also didn't quite clear the tie rods. GM's Alpha cars have options for control arm scoops with similar general geometry, so I got a set of CT5V Blackwing scoops for $19 per side. They're attached to a piece of 12ga aluminum sheet, zip tied to the control arm, with screws and jam nuts acting as a stud. Everything clears well, I can take the nylock nuts off and remove them to avoid clearance issues in the off season, and there's a sweet V logo on the part exposed below the rest of the undercarriage. I also made a much smaller heat shield to protect the wheel speed sensor and trimmed off half the stock dust shield, which was blocking the area where the scoop dumps air. Starting point:  Adapter:  Installed: 
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Mar 6, 2023 00:45
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That looks awesome  Might be worth buying the stainless steel zipties for this
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Mar 6, 2023 01:06
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BlackMK4 posted:That looks awesome
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Mar 6, 2023 01:10
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heffray posted:Fairly simple project: even after bumping up to 6 piston calipers (Bremo/GM parts bin upgrade), track pad lifetime is looking worrisome. I haven't had any fade issues, but it seems likely that lower temperatures would help things last longer. I'd previously tried Porsche GT3 control arm scoops, but they didn't catch much airflow and also didn't quite clear the tie rods. Does anyone sell a proper backing plate you can attach a duct hose to? Years ago when I was tracking my SRT8 magnum I had a set and they kept things super cool. They also never gave me any issues off the track so if you can get a hold of a set it would probably fully solve your pad temp issue
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Mar 6, 2023 01:36
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I finally got around to replacing the upstream O2 sensor in the Honda Element. I know it is the upstream sensor, because the code is pretty clear about it. I picked up a Dense O2 sensor and get under the car to install it, I remove the sensor that is installed upstream, install the new sensor, go to plug it in....and find that the wiring harness plug is a male plug. The plug on the sensor is also a male plug. Have a minor existential crisis. Look up the parts to make sure the parts store didn't sell me the wrong thing. Nope, that is indeed the upstream sensor. Some chucklefuck must have previously replaced these and swapped the upstream and downstream sensors. They are only about 10-12 inches apart and the wiring harness plugs are right next to each other. So for who knows how long, the upstream sensor has been downstream. Anyway, new upstream sensor is where it should be. Downstream sensor is where it should be, with a replacement on the way. I swear the title of this thread is so drat true for this car. So much of what I have found is stuff the Midas shop the PO took it to did in half rear end ways. I have found receipts for work in this car, complete with part numbers, where it was clear there wasn't work done and the part never replaced. I have negative faith in nearly any mechanic at this point.
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Mar 6, 2023 15:22
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 Stripped the quarter some more, found what I think is the original color. Crocus yellow.  I've cut the rockers out, and and started on the quarter. Hope to get it all fitted and done in the next few days.
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Mar 7, 2023 05:20
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This old farmtruck Vol II continues. EGR valve is now sticking open. Despite being about 40k-mi old.  The local PaP had one in the yards. Drove out. Truck had been on fire. But the egr cooler/valve is sort of intact. Despite the egr valve casting melted the valve still actuates. If this is working in this state surely it's the electrical component and not the mechanical. Forums read that when it throws this specific code to replace the valve. This involves pulling a fair bit of poo poo apart.   The port directly adjacent of the valve is from the exhaust side of things. The flow is exhaust >> egr valve >> egr cooler (if needed, if not, there's a bypass valve to shut the cooler out of the loop) >> intake  This is the bypass valve.   The cooler core was in good health. I would have bought it if I could have extracted it from the housing. The 2016 housing is incompatible with the earlier one unless some cooling system changes are made. I'm not making those changes right now.  The c/c trucks run a cast iron egr valve rather than aluminum like the above. + the one time use bolts, gaskets + the cooler, that's nearly a grand in new parts. Turns out the motor is widely used with Renault, Peugeot, Volvo, and Mitsubishi diesels. I can get one for ~$80. But six to eight weeks from now. I ordered an entire cooler + a c/c egr valve used for less than half the cost of just a new egr valve.   This gives me a total of: two coolers, two housings, three bypass valves, three bypass vacuum actuators, three egr valves, three egr actuator motors. I'll build up the second cooler with the right egr valve after boiling it out with simple green. I plan to build a test jig when the parts get here to test the motors and roll the best of the three into the respective assemblies. The worst will be used for study to potentially print bombproof parts. Its easier from what I can tell to swap the entire cooler than it is to swap just the egr valve in situ. At least this fucker isn't like a 6L and buried down in the depths of the valley beneath the intake and turbo.
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Mar 7, 2023 20:56
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"Ran when parked, no low ballers, I know what I have."
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Mar 7, 2023 21:50
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If Eric from I Do Cars can get that crispy Miata running, you can get this running. I have faith in you. 
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Mar 8, 2023 19:52
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Maybe. The glowplug harness is a little melty. Gonna need a can or three of 'start ya bastard' and this ere' M18 battery to roll it over. If i had a place to stash this junk I would have bought the longblock/transmission/tcase. The short should still be okay, and that has some nice upgrades over the earlier shorts. A spare core pump/injectors is always good. The 6R140? It'd go good behind a certain 7.3....
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Mar 8, 2023 19:59
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Took the new tires and wheels down to the shop to get mounted Not too shabby. It’s the final little piece in getting the EM1 ready for Carlisle  Installed  The originals, with the typical diamond cut clearcoat issues that Honda wheels of this time period always have, as well as brake dust that baked in.  Treadwear went from 640 on the Michelins to 280 on the Nittos. Should be a good time! Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Mar 11, 2023 |
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Mar 11, 2023 16:05
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What did the Premier A/S have over the Pilot Sport A/S?
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Mar 11, 2023 18:52
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Full Collapse posted:What did the Premier A/S have over the Pilot Sport A/S? If I had to guess, treadwear is longer. I bought the car with the Michelins already installed so I didn’t do the research on them.
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Mar 11, 2023 18:55
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Premier A/S was Michelin's top end touring A/S tire for a few years. Treadwear tended to not live up to the warranty claims, so they got discontinued a year or two ago in favor of the new CrossClimate 2's and the Primacy Tour A/S.
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Mar 11, 2023 21:28
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Picked these up today, not sure what they’ll end up on. Maybe the Del Sol or EM1 for some autocross sessions? Konig Dial-In 15x7 with 195/55/15 Toyo Proxes R1R.  
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Mar 12, 2023 22:30
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Helped a buddy revive this: It's his dad's pickup, bought new in '77. He's getting up there, and decided to give it to him this past Christmas. He's kept it in fair shape - starting it every so often, and was driving it a little until pretty recently. They're down-sizing, and moving to a new, smaller place, so he figured it was time. It's got a recent Holley 4160 on it, intake, cam, duals (used to have headers - I think they rusted out,) seems to have a lot firmer shift in the C6. We just needed to replace the valve cover gaskets that were leaking prodigiously onto the exhaust, and then reseal the carb when it was discovered to be leaking all over the place. In the midst of valve cover gaskets:  It was really clean inside - well maintained. The offending metering block gasket on the carb - note the misplaced bit at the top center  351M:  Grease and oil all under the drivetrain, but nothing actively dripping at this time, so we'll address that later, after it's home. Which it was after we did the gaskets and carb. It drove 70 miles with no real problem, other than it was discovered to have really loose steering, and no power on the power brakes. Again, that will be addressed. 1977 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 LWB. No rust (north Texas), assorted well-earned dings and scrapes. Grille will need to be replaced unless we find someone really skilled in knocking out dents in stainless (or aluminum - I didn't really check.)  The front of the fender is pushed in a little there, too. I think that's the worst damage, so not bad. Power brake, power steering, no AC. Manual transfer case. Interior is in fair shape.     I didn't take most of these pictures - his dad did. I'd have gotten wider shots on most, but he was trying to point out any flaws, I think. Will be doing a bunch more on this truck later. It goes great, but stopping it and getting it pointed in the right direction are currently shaky.
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Mar 14, 2023 21:43
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351M. The engine of "you'll get there, and it'll rip a house right off the foundation, but you won't get there fast". Should have a 9" rear with that combo tho. Check the kickdown cable and vacuum line for the modulator, the C6 normally doesn't shift hard unless it has a shift kit. Glad to see a 4 bbl on it, the 351M almost always had an autolite 2 bbl. And loose steering is a feature on these, not a defect. (my first vehicle was an 80 F-150 Ranger XLT, single cab LWB, 2WD, 351M+C6)
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Mar 14, 2023 22:04
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Pulled the plugs on my wife's car to try and narrow down some generally lovely performance, bad gas mileage, occasional CEL.... Yup, that'll do. Unfortunately I had to go buy plugs today in town, so I ended up with the same "cheap" plug that was in there before. Apparently the OE plugs are iridium/platinum, the ones in it are/were iridium/nickel. I had plugs on the way, but shipping delays meant they are arriving tomorrow when my work week starts again  Apparently the OE plugs should be good for 60-100k, vs the ones in there now that are ~10-15% cheaper that are supposed to last 40-50k. I'll just hang on to the box of OE ones to install next time it needs them. Also the one hole was absolutely full of oil, even though I did valve cover gaskets last summer to resolve that problem. FML.
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Mar 15, 2023 00:09
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It’s not tofu delivery in an AE86, but the spirit is there!
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Mar 15, 2023 22:21
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Replaced the valve cover gasket and spark plug well seals, and in the process also replaced some rock hard hoses and the PCV valve, which chipped apart upon removal. Look at the timing belt lol Hang in there, little buddy!!! Just two more days!!!
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Mar 16, 2023 15:42
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Imperador do Brasil posted:It’s not tofu delivery in an AE86, but the spirit is there! this RULES
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Mar 16, 2023 15:42
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Sarah Cenia posted:Replaced the valve cover gasket and spark plug well seals, and in the process also replaced some rock hard hoses and the PCV valve, which chipped apart upon removal. I’m praying for that little timing belt. Goonspeed.
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Mar 17, 2023 14:50
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I never realised timing belts were designed to shatter like safety glass. 
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Mar 17, 2023 17:02
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Did brakes and installed a new 50% stiffer Hotchkis front sway bar.    The sway bar ended up being a real pain in the dick, had to disconnect a lower control arm to get it out. Working under a car with jackstands sucks btw. Also my Mighty Vac took a poo poo so i decided to buy the Harbor Freight version instead, half the price! Well it was DOA created no vacuum whatsoever and this was after I already had the brakes done wanting to flush the fluid and bleed. Eneded up having to gravity flush/bleed and the POS vacuum pump is going back to harbor freight. Car rides great now tho. With both the rear and front Hotchkis bars and a strut tower bar it has significantly reduced body roll and for the price I'm pretty happy with it, each bar was about $150. Have yet to see how much of a difference the Hawk pads will make once I'm towing my boat. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Mar 17, 2023 |
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Mar 17, 2023 21:59
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Replaced ignition coil and spark plug wires that were somewhere between 15 and 25 years old and sanded the distributor contacts, which: Fixed intermittent stumble on acceleration, sometimes bad. Fixed off-idle surging. Fixed intermittent backfiring with hot exhaust and light throttle Got noticeably better butt dyno readings Unexpectedly got the rear end to beak loose at the same throttle input as before. A good fix.
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Mar 18, 2023 04:19
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AirRaid posted:I never realised timing belts were designed to shatter like safety glass. If you're VW, you design them so the teeth rip off even though the belt still looks perfectly fine. Ask me how i know...
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Mar 19, 2023 13:50
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Tangent: Does everybody use plastic timing chain guides in their light duty engines?
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Mar 19, 2023 16:29
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On Saturday I got started on the current chapter of the Saga of the Saab Convertible (the endless story of frustration and not driving anywhere) Current problem: one of the roof motors is seized, and the roof cannot move at all. The lid is closed, and can be latched to the top of the windshield, but the rear window is vertical because the motor that has seized is the left one of the pair that moves the rear window. All I need to do is disconnect the motor and I'd be able to close the roof properly and just drive it as a boring regular non-moveable roof car while I wait for the replacement from a wrecker's. But it's a very tight fit in that corner just behind the rear seats and I can't figure out how to get at the fasteners holding the motor in place, nor even see most of the bolts/screws clearly at all. I feel like I'd need to remove either the entire roof, or the rear side panel of the body of the car, just to get at the parts I can kind-of see. The motor drives a cog, about 3cm diameter, that moves an arm that supports the rear window; in normal operation, it moves the window up out of the way so the tonneau cover can flip up and then the whole roof can fold into the bag in the trunk. On the right side, the partner motor is fine, and (with considerable effort) I can move the right side up and down. I disconnected the arm on the left side, but if I try to close the roof with this joint disconnected (I pulled out the screw that was the axle for several parts to rotate around) the asymmetry means the left side doesn't close properly and parts start pushing into other parts, like the plastic-and-leather tonneau cover.  Roof motor by Martin Brummell, on FlickrThe seized motor, with the now-partly-free arm out of position above it; the black wire powers the heater for the rear window, and is tied to the identical-looking power wire for the motor that disappears down into the trunk where the main electrical control unit is located. You can see the toothed part of the window-support arm on the left, in position it meshes with a cog sticking out of the left side of the motor. The motor appears to be in two parts - the motor itself, and a small gearbox (the black cube) that allows it to rotate the cog. I might be able to disconnect the grey cylinder of the motor from that gearbox, I can see two of (I assume) 4 screws but I'm not certain I could get a tool in to turn each of the four. Does anyone have any general advice for digging out parts under other parts and in tight spaces?
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Mar 20, 2023 01:42
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