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Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

I appreciate that brigades would not be a strategic unit at the level we're talking (which as an aside is about 10-15km per hex) - but we need to concentrate them into divisions and corps as part of the mobilisation process :) Since Lasalle is essentially a game at the scale of one or two divisions per side, having an multiple corps consolidate would be impossible to field individually, I'd have to split into say two tabletop games for a single battle representing each flank/etc. - but I think it might be more fun to have multiple lines of attack and defence. Either way, once troops are bivouacked appropriately I will roll up for the local officers and we can start defining those groups.

I'm happy to get this started solo of course, but will hold fire until this evening.

Cassa posted:

I think you could use some interwar tanks for flavour.

And some Kievan Rus?

Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 11:29 on Mar 14, 2023

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Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Well, here we go. All images are thumbnails which only expand so much - but you can right-click "show image" to see a version with all the text displayed at a higher resolution. Once we are a bit more consolidated I'll increase the text size further.

January 8th, 1807
The French have dispersed their forces throughout neighbouring Masovia to ensure adequate supply for their troops. To reflect the offensive nature of their war, though outnumbered initially they are able to field reinforcements for killed and wounded troops at twice the rate of the retreating Russians. Russia have wintered their troops throughout the east of the dukedom. Their morale has been crushed by the defeat of the Prussians, and so all infantry units (other than Guards and Jagers) are likely to fight as conscript-quality. They may mobilise the local militia of Amberg and Aürich for battlefield usage (in which case those cities fall without a siege being undertaken).



We define three attack and defense strategies, and roll a D6 to determine which is used (bold):

French Attack Plan A: Northern breakthrough: Hold South, and push North to Amberg
French Attack Plan B: Consolidation: Attempt to capture Hetzer and Jülich
French Attack Plan C: Southern breakthrough: Hold North, and push South to Aürich

Russian Defensive Plan A: Block at chokepoint east of Vöhrensberg and counterattack South to Vrees/Jever
Russian Defensive Plan B: Attempt to capture Hetzer and Jülich
Russian Defensive Plan C: Block at chockepoint of Iven and counterattack North to Hetzer/Iselberg

8th-12th January
With no major towns being passed until the 13th and no intelligence, the Russians do not mobilise immediately - and five days are wasted before moving to counterattack. (D6 roll of a 2 on mobilisation reaction roll). The weather, unusual for a January is bright and clear. This is the state of play:



It's probably time to consolidate troops down:

quote:

French Petit Armee as of January 13th 1807 under General d'Armee Soufflé
French 1st Division - Croissant
22nd Infantry
7th Infantry
3rd Guards
19th Lt. Cavalry

French 2nd Division - Baguette
4th Infantry
8th Infantry
5th Guards
5th Cuirassier
17th Infantry - not yet attached

French 3rd Division - Escargot
2nd Infantry
8th Lt. Cavalry

13th-15th January
The Great Bear finally moves, and orders are recieved to mobilise and consolidate. Their speed of reaction tells us something about their characters:

quote:

Russian IV/V Corps as of Jan 13th 1807 under General Kotletov

Russian 1st Division under Okroshkov (able- 4/6)
22nd Infantry (Jagers)
85th Infantry
90th Infantry
19th Lt. Cavalry

Russian 2nd Division under Borschtev (brilliant 6/6)
9th Infantry
8th Guards
37th Infantry - not yet attached

Russian 3rd Division under Pirozhkov (competent - 3/6)
44th Infantry
23rd Infantry (Jagers)
17th Lt Cavalry
33rd Infantry - not yet attached

Russian 4th Division under Wiener (cautious 2/6)
2nd Guards - off map
7th Infantry - off map
20th Infantry - not yet attached

French 5th Guards arrive on the southern road on the 14th, and the French must halt to rest after 7 days marching

This is the state of play on the 15th:


Jan 16th
Without a garrison force, the French have managed to occupy Hetzer, one of their two objectives.

Jan 17th
In the south the Russian 37th Inf Brigade arrive on the Aürich road, but the forward elements of the French 2nd Division (the 17th Infantry) roll unopposed into Jülich, thus completing the initial French objectives.

The French now must roll another strategy-roll, and the French General Soufflé is feeling confident:
A: Hold Julich and push forward to Amberg
B: Hold Hetzer and push forward to Aürich
C: Push on both objectives simultaneously

Disposition on January 17th, 1807:


Jan 19th
Russian 4th Division arrives on Amberg Road. The 17th Infantry continue to wait in Jülich for the rest of their division, but the French 3rd forge eastward from Hetzer and come into contact with the Russian 1st Division! Our first battle! The forces will be as follows:

quote:

Russian 1st Division under Okroshkov (able- 4/6)
22nd Infantry (Jagers)
85th Infantry
90th Infantry
19th Lt. Cavalry

vs

French 3rd Division - Escargot
2nd Infantry
8th Lt. Cavalry



Clearly, this is a very lop-sided engagement, Escargot is outnumbered 2:1 - so we have an option here - do we attempt to disengage, or do we fight a battle?

It would be possible to even the score a bit by choosing a particular scenario or massaging the army lists a bit (i..e choosing a max-sized French elite infantry brigade, and three minimum sized Russian conscript brigades) Should we be doing that? On one hand, it defeats the object of strategic movement, but on the other we may end up with a ball-of-death of half a dozen brigades steamrolling anything front of it. Answers on a postcard, please!

Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Mar 15, 2023

Lumbermouth
Mar 6, 2008

GREG IS BIG NOW


Crossposted from the Kickstarter thread, Gangs of Rome 2nd Edition is up and the minis they're showing look tight as hell. Already pledged for that gang of knife-wielding farce actors.

Comstar
Apr 20, 2007

Are you happy now?

Southern Heel posted:

Clearly, this is a very lop-sided engagement, Escargot is outnumbered 2:1 - so we have an option here - do we attempt to disengage, or do we fight a battle?

Looks like the French reserves are going to be faster moving down a road on flat ground than the Russian forces stuck on the other side of a mountain gap. Hold off the Russians while the rest of the army rushes to their aid.


Maybe the Russian army is attacking across a river and does not expect the French to move so fast....

Tias
May 25, 2008

Pictured: the patron saint of internet political arguments (probably)

This avatar made possible by a gift from the Religionthread Posters Relief Fund

Lumbermouth posted:

Crossposted from the Kickstarter thread, Gangs of Rome 2nd Edition is up and the minis they're showing look tight as hell. Already pledged for that gang of knife-wielding farce actors.

I can't properly tell how to pledge for the add-ons or how much it costs? Can someone versed in poundage help out?

Lumbermouth
Mar 6, 2008

GREG IS BIG NOW


Tias posted:

I can't properly tell how to pledge for the add-ons or how much it costs? Can someone versed in poundage help out?

I know when I selected my pledge tier, it popped up a little Add On page with all the extras.

Lumbermouth
Mar 6, 2008

GREG IS BIG NOW


Also the new stretch goal is a Citizens of Rome plastic box set through Wargames Atlantic.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

EDIT: Moved my play-by-play campaign notes to a separate thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=4027227

I'll post a notification here when there's a big update there.

Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 09:12 on Mar 17, 2023

Comstar
Apr 20, 2007

Are you happy now?
I posted my first game of Field of Glory: Napoleonic 3rd edition on MY BLOG but so few people ever post battle reports herte I thought I would post it here too.

I'm limited to 5000 words (shessh did I write a lot) so here is only an introduction...


------------------------------
Following a unexpected collapse of THE EMPEROR NAPOLEONS armies after the disastrous retreat from Moscow, RUSSIAN ARMIES have invaded WESTERN EUROPE.

The DUKE OF WELLINGTON has been sent from SPAIN to negotiate a withdraw of the Russians.

However, the Russian Armies indicates they plan to stay...and it's 7 days to the Rhine...
---------------------------

In my first game under the draft (February) rules for Field of Glory Napoleonic 3rd edition, I took my army off to fight Dave's Russians again. My last battle ended in an absolute disaster with the entire army routing for no damage...I hoped I could do better this time. The rules make a lot more sense than the 2nd edition did, but it was my first game playing under them, and Dave is one of the top 10 players of FOGN world wide, and played a half dozen games using it already. I thought the best I could do might be a draw.


The Battlefield, looking East from the western edge. I am deploying on the right, and face North

Dave won the location roll off, and picked Eastern Europe. He blocked Flank and something and I blocked Prepared attack and something. I knew he'd have MAXIMUM ARTILLERY so I didn't want to get BOMBARDED for a turn before the battle started. With 4 divisions I had wanted to do a flanking attack, dammit.

He choose the most aggressive FRONTAL ASSAULT and I chose a cautious PROBE. His entire army would deploy and could only move forward for 2 turns (and move quickly too) and I would only have one division on the field, with another one in reserve and 2 more marching to the sound of the guns in reinforcement. I chose probe as I expected a frontal assault, and wanted to be able to dodge to one side or the other and force part of his army to attack thin air. Meanwhile, I would attempt the classic Napoleonic strategy of concentrating on one flank and destroying it in detail...

I choose 2 gentle hills and a difficult terrain with cover forest and he chose a town, open terrain and extra road. I hoped I could hide behind the reverse slope of the hills and use the forest as cover for my light infantry division. He choose the road to give him another place to put his LOC and the open terrain to give a clear place to advance.
I also choose a rough terrain stream to try and slow him down, another town and another(difficult) forest. He took some difficult crops and rough swamp terrain that had no cover for him to shoot his artillery across.

Unfortunately for me the hills ended up on my edge of the battlefield, and I put the river somewhat in his side. The rest of the terrain favored him and because I didn't choose a 2nd road, I had to put my LOC near the middle of the table.
I decided the only way to protect it was to to anchor one flank with the town to it's right.so I would attack on the left.


My one division vs his entire army

With him doing a direct FRONTAL ASSAULT, he put his entire army on the table first. I decided his left wing was the weakest, consisting of 3 infantry brigades (2 line, 1 light) and a light cavalry brigade. His heavy and medium corps level artillery was in the centre with 2 large infantry divisions and a light cavalry brigade, and his cassocks on the far right. He planed on using the swamp in the middle to divide my army and whichever side I went on, he could shoot me from the other side safely. Then he would attack the town with overwhelming force and take control of my LOC and force a general rout.

My plan was that I would use my 1st Division to attack his weaker right wing. My Cavalry Division would be in immediate reserve and come on the battlefield on my left flank. There the 2 divisions would pin his 1 with my heavier cavalry forcing his one brigade of light horse to retreat and then put his infantry into square where my Royal Horse Artillery and Royal Artillery attachments would blast him before charging home. The cavalry could come on the table with the Corps Commander on the first turn.

Elsewhere, my Flanking Light Division would hold my right flank based on the town and LOC and my 2nd Reserve Division would come into the centre- either to help hold the LOC or support the attack on my left. Both units were reinforcements, so would need to roll to arrive after the first turn, but were lead by skilled commanders so would get a bonus to do so. If needed, they could make a forced march to arrive one turn faster, but may be disordered in doing so (needing a command test to avoid it).

I knew I wouldn't have a long time to hold my right flank, but if I could catch his isolated division, I might be able to defeat it quickly and then have my cavalry run for his LOC.

Or in other words...I was re-fighting the Battle of New Orleans. And I was the British....


My main body 1st Division, looking towards his left wing

My 1st Division consisted of a large unit of British Line with an attached artillery battery, an superior KGL brigade, a unit of Portuguese with a cavalry squadron (to keep enemy skirmishers away), and a unit of Portuguese poorly trained Conscripts as a 2nd line. The 3 units of line infantry all had an attached rifle battalion. I put the KGL unit covering my LOC and the road, the rest facing his right wing.


My right side KGL brigade covering the LOC, looking towards a LOT of enemy troops coming down the highway


The Cavalry and 1st Infantry division march north towards the river, as the Russian division moves towards the bank

The Russian army advanced in group move, meaning if the division moved together, they only needed one command point to move everything. I did the same and brought my Cavalry on the far left flank. With a super-heavy shock and 2 light cavalry units, I would be able to win any cavalry fight with ease. I also outnumbered him in infantry, with his 2 line and 1 light brigades facing my 4 line units (even if the 4th one was a weak conscript unit). I moved my KGL elite infantry up to be with the rest of the brigade, on it's right side.


The Light Division moves into secure the right flank.

I rolled well enough to get my Light Division and 2nd Division onto the battlefield as soon as possible. With the 2 Russian divisions almost at the town, I decided to force march the Light Division. That meant all the units had to make a command test or become disordered. Funnily enough, the Spanish Guerrillas and Lusitanian Legion both passed- it was the Superior Veteran Rifle brigade that failed! 3 dice and a re-roll on a 5+!

Thinking it was the most important place, I put the Rifle Brigade into the town, they were the best unit (if small) in the army. I put the Lusitanian Legion on the road and the Guerrillas to their left towards the swamp.


My Corps Commander looks over the army's positions. You will note from the good paint job, I did not paint them.


Check out the blog for the rest of the battle....

Comstar fucked around with this message at 08:15 on Mar 17, 2023

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Thank you for the link - very interesting stuff! Quite apart from the scores of figures on the board for AE/Lasalle I've been musing about naval games. I'd thought that Fighting Sail (Osprey) would be a good shout given my investment in Napoleonics - but given this is a low figure, complex game like Battletech I'm going to scratch the itch of WW1 naval combat.

EDIT :-

I've been browsing around TMP, etc for suitable rules and it seems that MJ12's Grand Fleet is highly recommended: https://www.mj12games.com/grandfleets/. (btw they offer a 'demo set' of rules which can give you an idea). The rules are a bit more complex than FS but way less than something like General Quarters. For the sake of $7.50 I figure it was worth a try as a first naval game. I've yet to get deep into it, but it seems very playable with lots of optional chrome you can bolt on, like Lasalle, to increase flavour at the expense of complexity.

Obviously I need to get some fleets together before I play and so I opened the complete can of worms that is naval game scaling - and I thought figure-scaling and base standards for Napoleonics was bad!

Though not explicitly mentioned I think Grand Fleets is designed around 1/6000 or 1/4850 ships, since it mentions "if you use larger ships such as 1/3000" - but happily all measurements are through a proxy unit of kyds (i.e. thousand yard increments) and the default board size is 3x5' - which suits me perfectly even if it's under-sized for 1/3000 ships.

For the sake of my sanity I've ruled out 1/6000 and cost has made GHQ 1/2400 or larger unviable - so I've opted for a pair of NavWar 1/3000 fleet packs: http://www.navwar.co.uk/nav/default.asp?MMID=28. Hilariously, NavWar don't take online orders - only cheque or credit-card by post - have no email address and only answer the phone on saturdays midday-4pm. Crikey! I have used an online fax service to send them my order so we'll just have to see how that goes.

Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 10:16 on Mar 19, 2023

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Finished my Napoleonic French Army, Painting 2mm figures is so fun!



I’ve run out of bases for the Russian reinforcements so sitting on my hands a little bit!

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Southern Heel posted:

Finished my Napoleonic French Army, Painting 2mm figures is so fun!



I’ve run out of bases for the Russian reinforcements so sitting on my hands a little bit!

It’s nice when an army looks like an army :)

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
So cool. I have some Napoleonics coming from Irregular myself, and I'm also printing out some 2mm pike and shot right now that I'm excited to paint up. Really anything pre-napoleonic feels wrong at anything other than massed tiny scale.

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

Southern Heel posted:

Finished my Napoleonic French Army, Painting 2mm figures is so fun!



I’ve run out of bases for the Russian reinforcements so sitting on my hands a little bit!

goddamn are those 10 mm squares? that is a really drat tiny army

e: just realized the mat is probably in american units lol. army looking good tho

hot cocoa on the couch fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Mar 19, 2023

Comstar
Apr 20, 2007

Are you happy now?

Southern Heel posted:

Finished my Napoleonic French Army, Painting 2mm figures is so fun!



I’ve run out of bases for the Russian reinforcements so sitting on my hands a little bit!

Is that a 1 to 1 figure for a corps sized unit?

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

They're definitely not 1:1 scale for a corps I wouldn't have thought. Technically those infantry are 96 to a base, so I think there's about 2750 infantry and 400 cavalry represented - just about a couple of regiments at 1:1 as I understand it? It does look impressive though, and so cheap at about £25 for the lot.

Also :lol: I faxed my order (incl. card details as requested) to NavWar and within less than 12 hours my card was being used fraudulently on gambling websites, so I guess that's a non-starter! Since I've already got the rules and a navy blue vinyl tablecloth, I need to sort out some other miniatures. I have ordered some 1/2400 Russo-Japanese war ships from Tumbling Dice instead.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
Huh, NavWar are local to me. I could wander over some Saturday.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Arquinsiel posted:

Huh, NavWar are local to me. I could wander over some Saturday.

Thank you. While I do want to do North Atlantic Britain/Germany at some point, I have ships for now.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
The other option is seeing them at Salute or something I guess? I'm sure they're the kind of manufacturer to go to that. I swear I'll make it there some year. Maybe even this year!

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Arquinsiel posted:

The other option is seeing them at Salute or something I guess? I'm sure they're the kind of manufacturer to go to that. I swear I'll make it there some year. Maybe even this year!

I'm going this year, assuming no hee-larious train strikes.

EDIT: Also while the 1/3000 figures from NavWar might end up being more suitable for my table size, I have no desire for massed fleet action so if i have to pay a bit more for 1/2400 from Tumbling Dice and have a 20% scale discrepancy then that's just fine with me.

Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Mar 20, 2023

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Having read through Grand Fleets a few times I think I have a fair grasp of it and I thought I'd put some initial thoughts down here for your perusal, and come back to it after I've played my first games. PS: I don't know all the correct terminology so please forgive me if I appear a complete lubber.

Game Scope
Each side in a battle is a squadron, consisting of a number of divisions of 3-6 similarly sized ships. There are various compositional rules such as nominating a flagship, maintaining command distances, etc. - it's all roughly analogous to a platoon-level skirmish game with squads. Except each squaddie is a 25,000 ton, 200m long ship shooting 12" shells at each other.

If not using a historical scenario you can compose your fleet using points values determined by ship stats. A small destroyer division might cost 45 points, whereas a large battlecruiser might be 150. A game of 200 points is considered fairly small, and more than 600 points very large. If you want to simulate the cluster of destroyers that would accompany post-Dreadnought fleets then you can multi-base them, too.

Each ship comes with a datacard which details their movement, arnament, armour and capacity for taking damage. An example is shown below:



Gameplay
Each division on both sides rolls for initiative and then perform their move actions, and when this is done they perform their attacking actions which are not simultaneous (i.e. if a higher initiative ship knocks out a lower initiative ship, the latter has lost their opportunity to attack). There's a little housekeeping and then the turn repeats.

Movement
Ships engage across the long axis of a table, and initial deployment is interesting in that you must move onto the gaming space with each division's flagship move speed - and then the rest of that division must maintain formation behind it. Constant movement is important in the game - stopping or moving slowly gives benefits to attacking ships. Deceleration is free, but acceleration can only move between range bands (stop > slow > normal > fast). The only thing which feels really odd to me is that ships may turn up to 180° with nothing but a 50% move penalty. I think I will have this rotate around an arc instead!

Attacking
The main complexity comes in the interaction of various guns, armour and tactical factors. On a ship's datacard there multiple bands of attack dice for each weapon. Starting at the highest number available, you then shift down or up bands depending on various modifiers - range, speed, target armour vs armor penetrating abiity, etc. and then roll the relevant attack dice looking for 5's to hit (typically). For example, in my ship datacard above if I'm shooting the 8" turret guns at a target at long range, that was moving fast, the net modifier would be -2 - so instead of four dice, I would roll two. I like this because there is ONE roll with all the positive and negative modifiers included in a single tables, and no need to have separate hit/damage/armour save rolls with different modifiers.

Damage
Any hits translate directly to damage on the ship, and mark off grid lines for damage of which there are three tiers (Normal, Damaged and Crippled). Crossing a threshold requires a roll to check for damage against the engines, batteries and torpedos, and a roll on the critical hit table which can depict anything from a jammed rudder to a magazine explosion.

Additional Chrome
Sometimes weapons or speeds will have a caret ^, plus + or minus - against them on the ship datacards. These are used to facilitate additional granularity in things like movement and armour penetration but are not required. Similarly, there are rules for night fighting, weather conditions, commander quality, torpedos, bombers, intercepting fighters, etc. also but I'm going to ignore those for now.

Fleet Lists
The book includes "160 ship datacards" which is a little cheeky, as many of them are duplicate ship classes with name changes. They all correspond to historical scenarios in the book and range from about the start of the Dreadnought-era up to early World War 2. There are formulas to help derive your own data cards from historical, real-world specs too, but realistically I think most people will either use what's given or buy one of the supplementary scenario/datacard books that MJ12 have issued.

To be clear, the following conflicts are included in the base book:
- Ulsan (Russo-Japanese)
- Cape Sarych (Russian-Ottoman in WW1)
- Dogger Bank (British-German in WW1)
- Cape Palos (Spanish Civil War)
- River Plate (British-German in WW2)
- Komandorski Islands (USA-Japan in WW2)

The are two scenario books available "King and Kaiser" which is early WW1 Germany-Britain and "Tsar and Emperor" which is Russo-Japanese.

Value for Money
I've yet to put the game onto the table, but it is as close to a complete game system as possible without including print-and-play ships. On that note, you can find them easily online by looking up the ship class on the data card and googling it. I found all the ships required for the Battle of Ulsan online with no problem at all, so in theory you could be completely set with just this $7.50 ruleset for any early to mid ~20th century naval engagement.


Example Print-and-play Ship

Using the ship creation rules from the rulebook I have put together what HMS Dreadnought would look like :



The requirements for putting a ship together start fairly easily: belt armour thickness, top speed, etc. with a couple of reference charts, but once you get into arnaments it's alot more tough - maximum elevation, shell weight in lbs and velocity and formulas which look (in Excel) like: "=((A8*S22)*(2^(D11/3))*(E11*4) + F11 + F11)/20".

Next Steps
I'm really looking forward to putting this down on the table. I have a set of printed ships for the Battle of Ulsan which was meant to be a dry run before getting my 1/3000 NavWar WW1 ships, but as mentioned with those problems I'm now going to run the Battle of Ulsan with miniatures when they arrive. I am planning on videotaping these games and putting them up for review - if you have any thoughts for/against this, or advice on format/etc. then I would be all ears.

]
Sinking of Russian armoured cruiser Rurik, at the Battle of Ulsan

EDIT: gently caress, I just realise I ordered 2x Izumi (1884 Light Cruiser) instead of 2x Izumo (1899 Armoured Cruiser) ...
EDIT2: Full marks to Tumbling Dice, Paul the owner has substituted with no issues. Unless these miniatures turn out to be dogshit, I'm going to see if I can use them going forward.

Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 11:51 on Mar 22, 2023

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
Starting a White Mountain / Bila Hora 1620 project, using the Twilight of Divine Right rules. They were written by the Pike and Shot Society of England, so I feel like if anyone knows how to represent the warfare of the period, it's them. And what better project to start the 30 Years War off with than the battle that arguably started it?

I love the way 2mm recreates the feel of those old paintings from the 30 Years War. I've finished basing (and started priming) the Catholic Left Wing:


Still a long way to go, but it's still a lot of fun printing these guys out. The whole left wing was maybe 2 hours of print time? Waiting for more bases so I can do the rest is going to be the longest part!

This is the kind of feel I'm excited to recreate on the table:

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

I love everything about that! The more I do in 2mm the more it's growing on me, but I wonder if that's just because it's so easy to paint and I'm still looking at a mountain of Pendraken 10mm spikey boys.

EDIT: It turns out that finding the statistics for generating ship cards for Grand Fleet really isn't that hard at all. With an excel sheet generator I knocked up I've pulled a few ships out of my rear end, here's an example:



The autist in me definitely wants to build a system which can calculate the datacards automatically - adding in rows and child objects for guns, torpedos, etc.

Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 14:07 on Mar 22, 2023

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops
How do people find the fivecore brigade commander games? It seems interesting to me but the relative difficulty of killing people in it feels off, especially for artillery.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Bloody heck, that was quick - Tumbling Dice 1/2400 arrived already. I decided to add spars and the faintest outline of rigging:


Imperial Russian Navy Pacific Squadron


IJN 2nd Fleet

I feel like the rigging missing from the spars is pretty obvious but that's only to my eye and I'm worried that any more will make the ships too fragile to be used as game pieces? Thoughts?

SpaceViking
Sep 2, 2011

Who put the stars in the sky? Coyote will say he did it himself, and it is not a lie.


Gonna tweak the camo a bit but here's a section of Fallschirmjagers in 15mm.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady

Southern Heel posted:

Bloody heck, that was quick - Tumbling Dice 1/2400 arrived already. I decided to add spars and the faintest outline of rigging:


Imperial Russian Navy Pacific Squadron


IJN 2nd Fleet

I feel like the rigging missing from the spars is pretty obvious but that's only to my eye and I'm worried that any more will make the ships too fragile to be used as game pieces? Thoughts?
Looks like they are missing sails. Are they supposed to look like they can carry sails?

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

Southern Heel posted:

Bloody heck, that was quick - Tumbling Dice 1/2400 arrived already. I decided to add spars and the faintest outline of rigging:


Imperial Russian Navy Pacific Squadron


IJN 2nd Fleet

I feel like the rigging missing from the spars is pretty obvious but that's only to my eye and I'm worried that any more will make the ships too fragile to be used as game pieces? Thoughts?

you gonna base them? chunky bases could help with handling issues, though i don't love the look of them. i prefer thin bases and robust models. are these for nimitz?

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Yes, I'm definitely going to base them - for one so I can have the name written on the base because I can barely tell them apart even when I know what I'm looking at.

Cross-posting this from the Scale Modelling thread since I was asking about ship paintschemes there:



I'm mostly happy with these now although they do need a tiny bit of highlighting. I'm going to use the Grand Fleet rules.


Arquinsiel posted:

Looks like they are missing sails. Are they supposed to look like they can carry sails?

They all had big coal engines on them - the Rurik (brown) is the only one that has ratlines - but they all have masts and spars. I can't seem to find a picture of them with sails unfurled either - maybe for emergency use only or something?

Endman
May 18, 2010

That is not dead which can eternal lie, And with strange aeons even anime may die


Masts are for signal flags; their position on the masts means certain things.

NTRabbit
Aug 15, 2012

i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches




Some of the older Russian ships at Tsushima still had sails, but none of the Japanese ones did, as they were essentially phased out of military use around the world about 20 years prior.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Yes I think the Rurik has sails as it has the ratlines, it's the front ship in the rear line of this photo - which is from the Battle of Ulsan that I re-fought earlier today. I shot lots of video and should have a battle report up on Youtube in due course:



The Japanese were handicapped with green crews in order to bring the historical OOB into a vaguely balanced proportion, but the commander quality of the Japanese 2nd Fleet (rolled once at the start, and again when IJN Izumo took a critical bridge hit) meant the Japanese were able bring more of their more effective firepower to bear more frequently, despite the heavier armour of the Russians. Despite the loss of the Izumo as an effective fighting vessel and the sinking of the Naniwa, the Japanese were able to sink the Rossiya and cause enough damage to the Rurik that by nightfall it was a evident they had pulled off an upset victory.

The mechanics of degrading shooting and movement ability across the ship datacard is effective in representing everything that goes into whether a shot is successful or not, but it's not the easiest system to explain.



I'm still not a huge fan of the ability for warships to effectively rotate on the spot, but I guess the game is simulating one to three divisions per side and as such some abstraction is required. I think I definitely need to get another small Russian division - as the single group was just a sledgehammer to aim at the Japanese.

Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Mar 24, 2023

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops
What're folks recommendations for a naval game? I'm interested in doing some GM'd club stuff and wanted to investigate options for that, but I haven't done much naval and most of the ones I know of are intimidatingly dense.

hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

boy have i got a game that just came out for you

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops
Haha, please do tell!

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

spectralent posted:

What're folks recommendations for a naval game? I'm interested in doing some GM'd club stuff and wanted to investigate options for that, but I haven't done much naval and most of the ones I know of are intimidatingly dense.

Well, grand fleets is something I’m running at the moment and I’m very much enjoying it. It is set age of battleships and can manage anything from 1890-1950. It is way less complicated than something like general quarters, but retains a huge amount of flavour. It’s also super cheap and you can buy a PDF for $7.50 on wargames vault.

I haven’t tried it, but I’ve heard fantastic things about fighting sail for the age of sail era.

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops
I should be clear; this is for at least WW1-on era stuff and ideally the game would have some kind of spotting system so I can do fun note-passing-between-teams stuff.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

spectralent posted:

Haha, please do tell!

https://sammustafa.com/nimitz

Haven’t played it yet but the initial buzz online is positive, and Sam usually makes good games.

Endman
May 18, 2010

That is not dead which can eternal lie, And with strange aeons even anime may die


Is it played on a grid like Rommel, or is it more freeform like a traditional wargame?

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lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Endman posted:

Is it played on a grid like Rommel, or is it more freeform like a traditional wargame?

Looks like the latter:

http://hordesofthethings.blogspot.com/2023/03/nimitz.html?m=1

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