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c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

Huh, good thing I emailed Kohler Support. They're sending me a replacement fitting. So if I need to violence the fitting out it won't be a big deal. They also recommended the 50/50 vinegar and water; but I'll go with the citric acid.

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SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe

Shifty Pony posted:

Bonus HVAC fuckery that you might have seen me post in other threads. I would say it is plumbing adjacent but "adjacent" would be an improvement.



Is that... a pipe going straight through your duct?

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Redneck humidifier for your heating duct?

Pentecoastal Elites
Feb 27, 2007


lmao

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


SouthShoreSamurai posted:

Is that... a pipe going straight through your duct?

Yes, yes it is. That is a HVAC return duct with the copper drain pipe from the utility sink and washer punched right through it. To make it even more puzzling a new furnace/AC was installed on the other side of that wall in 2021 so the drain was almost certainly there first.

The pipe has already been replaced (which didn't take much rerouting at all). When I get all moved in I'm going to go under there and take a look and see if there are any Indication of how old that duct insulation is.

other people
Jun 27, 2004
Associate Christ
The faucet in our unused bathtub started a serious drip which I am glad I noticed because there is a hole in the tub near the drain lol.

Anyway, I went and bought two pipe caps and removed the faucet with the plan of just capping the pipes for now since we don't have any immediate plan to fix the tub.

I wrapped the pipes with some teflon tape and screwed on the (brass?) pipe caps I bought and of course they both loving have a small drip. I turned the water back off and reapplied more teflon tap (maybe 8 wraps around) and they still both have a drip.

Am I doing this wrong? Do I use more or less teflon tape? Do I have lovely tape? Is there something else I should be using?

PurpleXVI
Oct 30, 2011

Spewing insults, pissing off all your neighbors, betraying your allies, backing out of treaties and accords, and generally screwing over the global environment?
ALL PART OF MY BRILLIANT STRATEGY!

other people posted:

Am I doing this wrong? Do I use more or less teflon tape? Do I have lovely tape? Is there something else I should be using?

My experience with teflon tape is that you always need to use more than you think. My rule of thumb is that for each time the thread winds around, I give it two rounds of teflon tape, and that generally holds me. Though I prefer to use flax, I find it more reliable.

Is any of the tape "spooling out" when you put on the cap? If it isn't, then you definitely haven't used too much.

other people
Jun 27, 2004
Associate Christ

PurpleXVI posted:

My experience with teflon tape is that you always need to use more than you think. My rule of thumb is that for each time the thread winds around, I give it two rounds of teflon tape, and that generally holds me. Though I prefer to use flax, I find it more reliable.

Is any of the tape "spooling out" when you put on the cap? If it isn't, then you definitely haven't used too much.

I wrap the tape the same direction as the threads twist on so that when I twist on the cap it isn't trying to push the tape off.

I went back to the local hardware store and after some back and forth (we don't speak the same language) they gave me this small tube of blue gel-like stuff. I was asking for a pipe sealant (I think) and after translating all the packaging this seems to be some sort of waterproof lubricant. Anyway, I put some on the inside threads of the caps and around the outside of the teflon tape and after letting it sit ~30 minutes I turned the water back on and so far there is no sign of any dripping at all.

Whether I just did better with the tape or this lubricant stuff is helping I don't know. I just hope it holds 😬.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

other people posted:

I wrap the tape the same direction as the threads twist on so that when I twist on the cap it isn't trying to push the tape off.

I went back to the local hardware store and after some back and forth (we don't speak the same language) they gave me this small tube of blue gel-like stuff. I was asking for a pipe sealant (I think) and after translating all the packaging this seems to be some sort of waterproof lubricant. Anyway, I put some on the inside threads of the caps and around the outside of the teflon tape and after letting it sit ~30 minutes I turned the water back on and so far there is no sign of any dripping at all.

Whether I just did better with the tape or this lubricant stuff is helping I don't know. I just hope it holds 😬.

Especially with cheap fittings, tape plus sealant works great. Belt and suspenders...

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
In my experience, those brass pipe caps are nearly useless without sealant or rubber washers inside.

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



I replaced my bathroom sink drain with a Kholer Pop-up. My sink does not have an overflow drain, but the drain is an overflow drain. Any issues with that? In addition, the drain came with a flimsy gasket, but it wasn't creating a seal so I used putty. That ok?

PurpleXVI
Oct 30, 2011

Spewing insults, pissing off all your neighbors, betraying your allies, backing out of treaties and accords, and generally screwing over the global environment?
ALL PART OF MY BRILLIANT STRATEGY!

The Slack Lagoon posted:

I replaced my bathroom sink drain with a Kholer Pop-up. My sink does not have an overflow drain, but the drain is an overflow drain. Any issues with that? In addition, the drain came with a flimsy gasket, but it wasn't creating a seal so I used putty. That ok?

Using putty instead of a bad gasket is pretty much what the putty was made for, so you're good in that regard.

You may get some leackage using an overflow drain on a non-overflow sink, but usually the bigger issue is that overflow drains aren't always threaded all the way "up" and non-overflow sinks tend to be "thinner" in their construction, so sometimes they simply can't tighten enough to "grip" the sink at all. If it fits, then I'd be watchful of it for the first while, but if it doesn't leak, then there are no issues as such.

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



Thanks for that - is there much of a difference between plastic and metal drains?

PurpleXVI
Oct 30, 2011

Spewing insults, pissing off all your neighbors, betraying your allies, backing out of treaties and accords, and generally screwing over the global environment?
ALL PART OF MY BRILLIANT STRATEGY!

The Slack Lagoon posted:

Thanks for that - is there much of a difference between plastic and metal drains?

If we're talking about the paper thin metal drain pipes you get between sink and floor/wall, I would take PVC pipes over them since the metal pipes tend to corrode with time despite usually being made from brass which is reasonably resistant to such shenanigans. The plastic pipes, meanwhile, will outlast the rest of the structure.

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



Thanks! I ask because local shop had plastic drains with overflow but none without overflow, and the only ones without overflow were metal. The plastic with overflow seems to be doing well for a day so far, so here's to hoping it won't leak down the line. At least I know how easy it is to replace the drain now!

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

The Slack Lagoon posted:

Thanks! I ask because local shop had plastic drains with overflow but none without overflow, and the only ones without overflow were metal. The plastic with overflow seems to be doing well for a day so far, so here's to hoping it won't leak down the line. At least I know how easy it is to replace the drain now!

So it sounds like you're talking about tailpieces? The part that is in the sink and has the drain plug in it?

If so, my two cents is that you want a high quality metal one. Not plastic, which distorts and not hardware store tinfoil.

PurpleXVI
Oct 30, 2011

Spewing insults, pissing off all your neighbors, betraying your allies, backing out of treaties and accords, and generally screwing over the global environment?
ALL PART OF MY BRILLIANT STRATEGY!

Motronic posted:

So it sounds like you're talking about tailpieces? The part that is in the sink and has the drain plug in it?

If so, my two cents is that you want a high quality metal one. Not plastic, which distorts and not hardware store tinfoil.

Oh, yeah, my bad, if this is the part we're talking about, then I also say go for metal.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

I've got a Symmons Temptrol shower valve I'm trying to replace the seats on. The cold seat will not come out. It's probably at least 25 years old. I tried the Symmons tool and it just stripped out immediately, and then I tried a pipe nipple extractor and that tore the seat up enough where the extractor just pushes through and won't grab anymore. The next size up extractor is too big, not sure if I can find an in-between size, but at this point I'm not sure if it will come out like that.

Would a plumber have some other secret ways of getting this thing out, or is it possible the whole valve would need to be replaced at this point?

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


The rubber coupling on my ejector pump started leaking over night. Nothing major, but the hose clamp is rusted and this install has always been a mess I'll "get around" to fixing one of these days. Thanks to the leak, today's the day. This ejector pump serves the utility sink, washer discharge, and HVAC condensate drain. It runs up to the ceiling/floor joists above and then horizontally for ~10' to the main septic outlet pipe. I believe the PVC on the wall in the rear of the picture is the vent stack.

What's the best way to route this piping, and what are the correct fittings to use along the way? Backflow check valve, anything else? Should it be run over to the wall? This will mean another 90 degree bend to get back to the right spot horizontally. Any input greatly appreciated!

PurpleXVI
Oct 30, 2011

Spewing insults, pissing off all your neighbors, betraying your allies, backing out of treaties and accords, and generally screwing over the global environment?
ALL PART OF MY BRILLIANT STRATEGY!
I'm taking psychic damage from that pipe just hovering in the middle of the room, with all those bends. Either 90-degree it at floor level, over to the wall, then up, or go straight up, and then 90-degree it at the top where it needs to go, maybe lead with a single 45-degree bend to avoid that big ventilation pipe.

...and wait, does it bend away from the camera first, then back towards the camera again a meter higher?

Unless you make it literally twist around like a spiral, you will have made it a better routing than it currently is.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


PurpleXVI posted:

I'm taking psychic damage from that pipe just hovering in the middle of the room, with all those bends. Either 90-degree it at floor level, over to the wall, then up, or go straight up, and then 90-degree it at the top where it needs to go, maybe lead with a single 45-degree bend to avoid that big ventilation pipe.

...and wait, does it bend away from the camera first, then back towards the camera again a meter higher?

lol, yes. perhaps I should cross-post to crappy construction. I also love the primer slopped all over.

quote:

Unless you make it literally twist around like a spiral, you will have made it a better routing than it currently is.

Yeah I'm thinking straight up is the best and easiest solution since it's up in the ceiling joist. Over to the wall would mean a 90 at the floor, a 45 to get around the vent pipe, another 45 to get horizontal, and then another 90 to go into the existing 90 for the ceiling joist bay run. That's a lot of extra head loss from all those bends. Another "one of these days" is moving the utility sink and enclosing the sump pump in a small corner closet anyway.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



That's not an uncommon look for an ejection pump.

Make sure that there aren't a maximum number of degrees of bends that are permitted for the length of the run.

You can't move the sewer ejection pump and you can't really change the orientation either. It has to get up over that wall and also to clear the ductwork. If you can plan a route that accomplishes that, and more cleanly while taking less space, go for it.

There is a check valve, it's why you have fernco couplings on there in the first place.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Also, there's a reason those ferncos are there (the rubber coupler). You should make it a straight shot up so there is only one, but you absolutely want at least one in there with a gap where the two ends of the PVC don't touch.

This is an easy place to detach the pump plumbing from the rest of the system for service, but more importantly it keeps the pipes from transmitting all of the pump vibration when running into your house.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


Oh yeah no question on the rubber coupling for easy-disconnect and vibration isolation. It's just always been a mess of fittings and PVC primer that annoys me every time I do laundry. Anything in particular to look for in a check valve, or just whatever Ace or Lowes Depot has on the shelf?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

brugroffil posted:

Anything in particular to look for in a check valve, or just whatever Ace or Lowes Depot has on the shelf?

Just buy 2 of those and make them easy to swap out.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'




Needle go brrrrrrrrrrrr

Guess I need a pressure regulator on this house.

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

Just installed a new Delta Chamberlain faucet and it appears there is a drip from the hot water side. Went to try to check out the cartridge and I can't figure out how this is supposed to be removed. It appears that that white threaded part that held the handle on surround the actual bonnet nut.

*Edit - Nevermind, a strap wrench got it. That whole thing comes off.

c355n4 fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Apr 22, 2023

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


It feels like I've already asked you to stop posting pictures of my crawlspace.

PurpleXVI
Oct 30, 2011

Spewing insults, pissing off all your neighbors, betraying your allies, backing out of treaties and accords, and generally screwing over the global environment?
ALL PART OF MY BRILLIANT STRATEGY!

Oh for gently caress's sake. Someone call an exorcist.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

Holy poo poo that carpenter ant damage. One good jump on that floor and I bet everything buckles.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Oh. poo poo.

That's termite damage. C'est dommage.

Sill plate is history, too.

Eason the Fifth
Apr 9, 2020

PainterofCrap posted:

Oh. poo poo.

That's termite damage. C'est dommage.

Sill plate is history, too.

How do you remediate/repair that kind of issue? Call a foundation expert?

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


Thankfully that's Apple's crazy-aggressive image sharpening going utterly haywire on the combination of low-light, wiggly hand, wood grain, and long ago oxidized sap spots with Imgur's re-compression thrown on top. The wood is in good shape; you could use it as a hammer it is stupidly dense.

It does look remarkably like horrific termite damage in that photo though.

I did manage to confirm that the sharkbites are all part of the installation of the tankless water heater. They've been there for 15 years!

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Eason the Fifth posted:

How do you remediate/repair that kind of issue? Call a foundation expert?

You unload the structure's mass off of the foundation far enough to pull the sillplate and throw in a poo poo-ton of sisters (basically, replacements for the floor joists). Once they're all in & the house is back down, you can pull the sponge that used to be lumber. Or leave it. Most folks leave it.

Depending on the age, build, and engineer's analysis of structural integrity & load-bearing points, parts of the structure may have to be braced. None of it is cheap.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Eason the Fifth posted:

How do you remediate/repair that kind of issue? Call a foundation expert?

Call Ken.

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
How do you get to water supply lines under sinks to unscrew them? The quarters are too tight for me to fit a normal wrench around the basins of either of my sinks.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

NotNut posted:

How do you get to water supply lines under sinks to unscrew them? The quarters are too tight for me to fit a normal wrench around the basins of either of my sinks.

I think you’re in need of a basin wrench: https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/basin-wrenches

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

NotNut posted:

How do you get to water supply lines under sinks to unscrew them? The quarters are too tight for me to fit a normal wrench around the basins of either of my sinks.

Remove the faucet from the sink and do it loose.

And yes, use a basin wrench to get the nut for the faucet off.

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NotNut
Feb 4, 2020

nitsuga posted:

I think you’re in need of a basin wrench: https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/basin-wrenches

StormDrain posted:

Remove the faucet from the sink and do it loose.

And yes, use a basin wrench to get the nut for the faucet off.

That's exactly what I needed, thanks.

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