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Bob Mundon posted:Any recommendations on a decent brad point set? I either keep seeing them with terrible reviews or a crazy price I can't even consider. The pretty expensive ones Lee Valley sells are fantastic, you definitely get what you pay for.
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# ? Mar 25, 2023 20:40 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 01:49 |
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I don't know if you can get them in North-America, but Famag is my go-to for good drills, both brad-point & Forstner.
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# ? Mar 25, 2023 21:40 |
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I'd drill the parts just as you're doing it, with my semi-janky drill press. But I'd do it before I cut the parts to final size. I'd fit the dowel through all of them, then clamp it together and run the whole stack through the table saw (maybe planer? maybe just sand with the orbital). Then I'd disassemble and shape the hooks.
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# ? Mar 25, 2023 22:04 |
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I finally finished the little entrance hutch I started ages ago. It’s plywood, sanded and primed with 2 coats of paint. The paint has a sticky/tack feel, just my nail can make lines in it (so my kids will destroy it). Do I need more coats of paint, or a protective finish? If a finish, what works with painted plywood furniture? There appear to be approximately 1 zillion options.
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# ? Mar 26, 2023 12:51 |
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Matte Polyurethane
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# ? Mar 26, 2023 13:07 |
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LightRailTycoon posted:Matte Polyurethane Ok, thanks! Follow up question, it’s above a radiator, I probably should have thought about this sooner but are there any precautions I should take, or anything I should expect to happen (or not happen) with it going through heat cycles 6 months of the year?
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# ? Mar 26, 2023 13:28 |
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epswing posted:I finally finished the little entrance hutch I started ages ago. It’s plywood, sanded and primed with 2 coats of paint. The paint has a sticky/tack feel, just my nail can make lines in it (so my kids will destroy it). Do I need more coats of paint, or a protective finish? If a finish, what works with painted plywood furniture? There appear to be approximately 1 zillion options.
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# ? Mar 26, 2023 14:02 |
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epswing posted:Ok, thanks! I should have specified water based, too, it won’t yellow like oil base. If you use an alkyd enamel instead of latex, you won’t have to topcoat with poly. I like Ben Moore advance. Plywood should be fine with heat cycles.
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# ? Mar 26, 2023 14:04 |
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Heh, oops, yeah we used latex paint (Sherwin Williams acrylic latex). We wanted it the same color as the wall and had some left over. Ah well, we’ll live with 30 days worth of offspring damage before thinking about a topcoat. Thanks for the advice!
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# ? Mar 26, 2023 14:55 |
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Also I just want to say thanks to this thread for helping me embrace the difference between “fine woodworking” and “it’s fine” woodworking. I’ve built a few small things around the house (mostly plywood and glue) in the last couple years with a cheap mitre saw, a router (mostly for cutting rabbets and dados), and a jobsite table saw and probably wouldn’t finish anything otherwise!
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# ? Mar 26, 2023 15:04 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:What kind of paint did you use and how long ago did you paint it? Most paints take like 30 days to really fully cure. Latex paints always stay a little gummy like that. Sherwin Williams makes some alkyd or urethane enamels that dry really hard and not tacky that are great for furniture. I wouldn’t top coat it with another product, but if you want to go that route definitely wait the full 30days for the paint to completely cure before you topcoat it. I would recommend an alkyd enamel instead of poly over latex, but its better than bare latex. We did our 4 year olds bookshelf with it, and it’s holding up great.
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# ? Mar 26, 2023 19:23 |
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Now I just sit around watching YouTube videos about milling lumber and making plywood.
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# ? Mar 26, 2023 20:10 |
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Where do you find inspiration for your projects? I have a whole house I need to kit out with furniture, and I don't even know where to begin. My usual process is a scattershot search across the internet, furniture stores, etsy, wherever else for ideas to pull ideas from. It's very hit or miss. I started by looking around and taking pictures at fancy furniture stores recently, but I wonder if there are, like, books with designs, maybe drawings/blueprints that anyone can recommend
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# ? Mar 27, 2023 05:35 |
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What do you people think of spray finishing a kitchen table top (oak) using 2k clear coat meant for cars? Insane or brilliant idea? I was thinking that 2k stuff is pretty durable and I have more than I will use for a car project. Also pretty toxic so I need new fresh special filters for dealing with it (ideally a supplied air system) but I guess if it gets to cure for a week before bringing it inside. Might end up too glossy too, I never tried spray painting furniture.
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# ? Mar 27, 2023 06:56 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:What do you people think of spray finishing a kitchen table top (oak) using 2k clear coat meant for cars? Insane or brilliant idea? Yes, you can definitely do that. Is it a 2k polyurethane? There are plenty of those used in the wood finishing world. IME the more high-tech a finish (like a 2k poly) the more demanding they are in terms of application procedure/conditions. You probably ideally would use a sanding sealer made for that product between the wood and the topcoat-if it’s in the automotive world they may not have one available for wood, and mixing different brands may or may not be okay. Their tech support people will definitely tell you it’s not okay, but you may be able to get away with it. A thin coat of dewaxed shellac is a decent universal sanding sealer, but definitely keep it thin. Another potential issue is how hard hard flexible the finish is. Wood finishes need to be a bit flexible to handle wood movement and the fact the wood is relatively soft-if they weren’t flexible they would crack when something made a dent. I have no idea how car finishes compare in this regard. You can knock down the sheen a bit by rubbing it out at the end with steel wool or other abrasive pad.
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# ? Mar 27, 2023 13:48 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:What do you people think of spray finishing a kitchen table top (oak) using 2k clear coat meant for cars? Insane or brilliant idea? Insanely brilliant, yes. If you've painted a car, I'm pretty sure you can handle furniture.
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# ? Mar 27, 2023 19:55 |
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HolHorsejob posted:Where do you find inspiration for your projects? I have a whole house I need to kit out with furniture, and I don't even know where to begin. My usual process is a scattershot search across the internet, furniture stores, etsy, wherever else for ideas to pull ideas from. It's very hit or miss. I dither around not finishing various projects until my wife dives headfirst into a thing I need to make, such as by announcing it is happening now and we are going to the wood store because she knows I will always go for it, and then I make that.
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# ? Mar 27, 2023 21:02 |
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Leperflesh posted:I dither around not finishing various projects until my wife dives headfirst into a thing I need to make, such as by announcing it is happening now and we are going to the wood store because she knows I will always go for it, and then I
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# ? Mar 27, 2023 21:49 |
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HolHorsejob posted:Where do you find inspiration for your projects? I have a whole house I need to kit out with furniture, and I don't even know where to begin. My usual process is a scattershot search across the internet, furniture stores, etsy, wherever else for ideas to pull ideas from. It's very hit or miss. i have a three+ year backlog and if there's not an immediately pressing need for something I mostly just pick something at random to avoid getting overwhelmed. Bonus if it's an easy way to practice a technique I'm going to need to have a better handle on for a bunch of other projects there's a fuckload of design guides out there but I really like this series, they're very thorough and the arts and crafts movement stuff is at pretty much the ideal hobbyist sweet spot of being pretty easy to execute, looking fancy and expensive, and probably lasting forever if you actually follow the instructions. A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Mar 27, 2023 |
# ? Mar 27, 2023 22:14 |
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So it would appear that the Powertec dust collection 4" to 2.5" reducer was a smashing success paired with my Ridgid shop vac/Home Depot bucket cyclone. I was afraid that wouldn't have enough oomf to work well but it probably gets 98% of the dust and chips from my band saw and jointer. Had to buy the flex couping to attach to the 4" ports (same size as reducer), but the 2.5" side holds the Ridgid shop vac hose like a charm. I'm sure a full 4" system is ideal, but was surprised at how well this worked just with a shop vac/cyclone.
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# ? Mar 27, 2023 22:15 |
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Any recommendations on a physically small 5HP shop vac with a 2.5" hose? I want to build something small and portable like what Steve Ramsey did here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ni1Pf-wwo0. The two main tools I'll be using the dust collector/cyclone for are the jobsite saw and planer which both have a 2.5" port. Since I'll be using a cyclone, the capacity of the shop vac is negligible - so, the smaller, the better. The problem is that all the small 5HP shop vacs I'm finding have a 1 7/8" hose. Am I just over thinking it?
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 01:26 |
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lmao I was planeing down a strip of hard maple and I produced a 90 degree edge sharp enough to slice my fuckin fingers open
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 02:44 |
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Leperflesh posted:lmao I was planeing down a strip of hard maple and I produced a 90 degree edge sharp enough to slice my fuckin fingers open
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 02:45 |
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yeah I was hand planing and just rapped my knuckles across the edge of the wood as I went to set down the plane and whoopsie it's not too bad, just a couple of bandaids, but it's a reminder that a good sharp plane blade leaves a very fine surface, and if you have two such surfaces meeting at an edge, that edge can be quite pointy indeed
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 03:06 |
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Skunkduster posted:Any recommendations on a physically small 5HP shop vac with a 2.5" hose? I want to build something small and portable like what Steve Ramsey did here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ni1Pf-wwo0. I just looked at my 4 gallon 5 HP Ridgid and it is in fact only 1 7/8. But it's just a piece of plastic in a hole. You could pretty easily take out the 1 7/8 coupler and enlarge the hole. You'd need to figure how to attach the 2 1/2 hose to the larger hole, but I imagine that wouldn't be too difficult, especially if this vacuum is going to be "single purpose".
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 03:46 |
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Leperflesh posted:lmao I was planeing down a strip of hard maple and I produced a 90 degree edge sharp enough to slice my fuckin fingers open I've done that. I felt like such a dummy.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 03:56 |
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Skunkduster posted:Any recommendations on a physically small 5HP shop vac with a 2.5" hose? I want to build something small and portable like what Steve Ramsey did here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ni1Pf-wwo0. Rigid still has some 2.5” stuff, but I don’t think you find anything smaller than 10G. A $5 fernco coupling will also work if you get a 1 7/8”.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 03:56 |
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Every kind of vacuum hose converter is on amazon, I got various sizes to adapt my shop vac to my bandsaw, miter saw, router, orbital sander, etc. and they all work fine. If you have a slightly loose fit you can just put a couple of rubber bands onto the male part and that'll help it stay snug. The only issue I've had is that with the random orbital sander, four feet of 3" hose plus an adaptor is a bit of a heavy drag on the back, kinda annoying to use, so in that one case I might get a few feet of narrow hose to run down to a coupler on the floor or on the shop vac just to get it a bit lighter and easier.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 04:00 |
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Leperflesh posted:lmao I was planeing down a strip of hard maple and I produced a 90 degree edge sharp enough to slice my fuckin fingers open I did that to myself when using a spokeshave to remove bark from a live edge board. All you really need is a species of reasonably hard wood. Makes me glad that modern 2x4s all have a small roundover on the edges.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 04:52 |
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Regarding the shop vac / cyclone, getting or printing an adapter wouldn't be a problem. I was more curious if the 1 7/8" hose would be too restrictive in terms of air flow for a tool that has a 2.5" port. Just wondering if it is a "nah, you'll be fine" or a "you're going to regret this" decision.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 13:42 |
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Anecdotally, but I have a big Ridgid 5HP vac with the 2.5" hose, and the smaller 5HP with the 1 7/8" hose, and it does feel like with the smaller hose there's a little less suction. I still maintain it would be easy to mod a 2.5 opening into a vac with 1 7/8 opening, so I think you'd be pretty safe to buy the smaller vac and use the adapter, and if you feel like that's not working out, mod the hole bigger.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 14:34 |
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Took a historic wet oak timber framing course. It was rad and I'm ready to do my own. Happy to post some more still pics if people are interested. I'm still going through them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svfYCi_NikU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVW942TxN4w I'm looking for a couple of framing chisels for wet oak and I'd appreciate any recommendations for manufacturers, models etc. In my kit already I have a big vintage shipwrights slick for smoothing and finishing, a 1/2 man crosscut greenwood saw for the big beams as well as a half decent pull saw for the tenons. Probably want a 1.5in and a 2.something. I don't mind spending a hundo plus on each. I want long handles Ideally, for both leverage but comfort with my various computer toucher RSIs. The Japanese 'Anaya Chisel' is on my research list. I could do with some decent dividers and a rip saw recommendation too, and I think I wouldn't mind it being another Japanese pull saw (long handles and better for my RSI). ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Mar 29, 2023 |
# ? Mar 29, 2023 14:40 |
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That was cool, thanks for sharing! I'm definitely interested in seeing any other materials you have from the course. I can't help you with your tool shopping, though. Good luck!
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 17:20 |
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My go-to brand for price/performance is Narex, they're Czech made but very high quality. But their focus is on bench chisels, it looks like the top brands for framing are Barr and Robert Sorby. Lee Valley mostly doesn't sell low-quality stuff and they carry sets of Sorby for what looks to be a decent price - one of each of 1", 1 1/2", and 2" for $262, for example. But these do not have long handles. The longer the handle, the more awkward it can be to use with a mallet, so are you sure you want really long handles on these? Northmen make some very expensive timber framing chisels & slicks and their sets are all long-handled slicks and then chisels with typical (like 6") handles. One option is to buy some standard socketed chisels and if you find the handles too short, remove them and make some new ones at whatever length you prefer. If you have access to a lathe this is pretty simple, but even without one you can use a vise and a spokeshave to shave down square stock first to a hexagon and then to a round profile.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 17:33 |
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https://www.fine-tools.com/zim.html MHG is not too well known, but from what I've heard they make quality stuff, and just so happen to make long framing chisels. As for saws, an old, very coarse Disston (28", 3.5 tpi) is my go-to for hand-ripping, though you might need some luck finding one. Probably have to might them yourself, but frame saws are an option too if you're set on doing this by hand. Just Winging It fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Mar 29, 2023 |
# ? Mar 29, 2023 18:08 |
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Leperflesh posted:The longer the handle, the more awkward it can be to use with a mallet, so are you sure you want really long handles on these? Yes. I spent the entire week wishing for something twice the length of a bench chisel. The timbers are big and you put them on slightly lower horses. A lot of the time is spend hand working the joints. I've found these Japanese chisels on this odd little website since posting and they look promising. https://covingtonandsons.com/2022/04/25/the-varieties-of-japanese-chisels-part-18-the-hantataki-chisel/ quote:Northmen make some very expensive timber framing chisels & slicks and their sets are all long-handled slicks and then chisels with typical (like 6") handles. I saw Northmen but tbh their whole vibe seems a bit masculinity lifestyle brand but if they're ok I'll reconsider. quote:One option is to buy some standard socketed chisels and if you find the handles too short, remove them and make some new ones at whatever length you prefer. If you have access to a lathe this is pretty simple, but even without one you can use a vise and a spokeshave to shave down square stock first to a hexagon and then to a round profile. That's not a bad idea, I'll keep that in mind thanks.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 20:31 |
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Just Winging It posted:https://www.fine-tools.com/zim.html MHG is not too well known, but from what I've heard they make quality stuff, and just so happen to make long framing chisels. Thanks I'll check out MHG. I don't even know where I'd begin to find old disstons. Hand ripping is only needed when there is a knot in the tenon or something and you can't just pop it all out with a chisel so an induction hardened new saw will probably do me for a lifetime. I've managed to find a decent looking LARGE Japanese ryoba designed for ripping panels for not too much.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 20:52 |
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ReelBigLizard posted:Yes. I spent the entire week wishing for something twice the length of a bench chisel. The timbers are big and you put them on slightly lower horses. A lot of the time is spend hand working the joints. Ah! But is it the handles that should be longer, or is it OK if the body of the chisel is longer instead? E.g. is it just overall length that matters? For example, the MHG chisels Just Winging It linked to are 18" total length, while the Sorby framing chisels have 9" long handles and 10 1/4" to 11" blades for a total of around 19".
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 20:54 |
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ReelBigLizard posted:Thanks I'll check out MHG. I don't even know where I'd begin to find old disstons. Hand ripping is only needed when there is a knot in the tenon or something and you can't just pop it all out with a chisel so an induction hardened new saw will probably do me for a lifetime. I've managed to find a decent looking LARGE Japanese ryoba designed for ripping panels for not too much. Ebay or local antique malls have been my go-tos. Old panel saws may have some rust and will almost always need sharpening, but they're usually cheap.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 20:56 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 01:49 |
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Does anyone have plans for a small workbench that they like? I’ve been using an ancient table that the previous owner left in the basement. In general I have roughly 48-64” in width available.
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# ? Mar 29, 2023 21:00 |