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w00tmonger posted:Any tips of shading white? Bit of an undercoat here with zenithal, but in not sure how to best attack the white under the face/tail, or if it's even necessary here If your light source is cold (can't tell if it's just white and the daylight is making it look bluer) then generally the shadows will be a little warmer than the light. So if you want that extra bit of contrast then painting the shaded areas very light brown will do the trick. When in doubt, google some Impressionist art for ideas on how to represent light! This is of course much more advanced than "cool light with warm shadows" but Monet uses alternating warm and cool colours to give off the impression of light. The deepest shadows are warm brown, the half-tone shadows are cold blue and violet, there's a mid highlight of warm yellow-green of reflected light from the ground and then a literal edge highlight of pure white. Just skip the warm yellow-green part and you're already there on your mini!
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# ? Mar 31, 2023 18:36 |
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# ? May 25, 2024 07:14 |
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w00tmonger posted:Any tips of shading white? Pick either a warm white or a cool white. For warm white, do a brown basecoat up to a cream; and for a cold white do a blue-gray (or blue or even purple) basetone and build up to very light blue-gray, then do white highlights. For a fox I'd probably do a warm white because it'll blend well with the orange fur. It doesn't have to actually be white for your brain to read it as white. Edit: I don't have any good warm white examples. I should rectify that. PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Mar 31, 2023 |
# ? Mar 31, 2023 20:45 |
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PoptartsNinja posted:
I really don't mean to spam this as a LOOK AK ME, but I did a warm white on the apron here by an ochre basecoat, then layered up through khaki - off white - pure white with that cross hatching pattern in order to make a cloth texture. I exaggerated the lines to make the cloth appear cheaper, like that this halfling found an old burlap sack of flour and made it into an apron
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# ? Mar 31, 2023 21:02 |
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Tangential to the thread but how do people store their large game mats? I pulled out a neoprene one I hadn't used in a while and it's a crusty pile of poo poo. I've seen the wine rack solution touted but that won't work for 6x4 mats.
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# ? Mar 31, 2023 21:22 |
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Springfield Fatts posted:Tangential to the thread but how do people store their large game mats? I pulled out a neoprene one I hadn't used in a while and it's a crusty pile of poo poo. I've seen the wine rack solution touted but that won't work for 6x4 mats. metal tie hanger in the coat closet. the mats I have, including up to 6x4, all came in carrying cases with a loop at either end, so I hang them from the hanger that way.
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# ? Mar 31, 2023 21:25 |
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Turbinosamente posted:I knew somebody had the pewter skulls, a lot of these companies begin to blur together after a while. It just seemed silly to me to bother decorating a paint mixing ball, something you're going to infrequently see while in use. If they have a casting setup it probably costs them the same whatever the shape of the final product is. I found that actual ball bearings made of proper stainless steel are shockingly expensive. I would be more concerned about the possibility of the texture on the skull becoming some kind of trigger for the paint to coagulate around but I'm no chemist so I might just be making poo poo up. Edit on a somewhat related topic - does anyone have a good source of weights for bases with funny shapes in the UK? I've got a small vial of 1mm shot but that stuff is quite expensive and also lead. Ideally I would like something that I could just apply glue and pour in rather than needing to squash fishing weights. Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Mar 31, 2023 |
# ? Mar 31, 2023 22:34 |
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I finished Part 2 of my Deathwatch Intercessor Killteam/ Emerging army:
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# ? Apr 1, 2023 00:23 |
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Professor Shark posted:I finished Part 2 of my Deathwatch Intercessor Killteam/ Emerging army: Hell yes these are sweet.
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# ? Apr 1, 2023 00:28 |
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Professor Shark posted:I finished Part 2 of my Deathwatch Intercessor Killteam/ Emerging army: Hell yeah! The line work is super clean, you did a great job on these dudes. I like how you even did the chapter specific iconography on them too
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# ? Apr 1, 2023 00:35 |
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Out in the Halo Stars where The Lighthouse is located life is bleak, so some uniform regulations are relaxed to remind members of home. In reality, black can be boring, so I needed some colors to make it pop , hence the additional helmet and left knee heraldry, the latter of which is mostly for fun.
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# ? Apr 1, 2023 01:31 |
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My finished up Avatar of Khaine. based on KAHA's Lord of Malice
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# ? Apr 1, 2023 02:13 |
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Goddamn, I know that's not blacklight but it looks like it. Well done.
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# ? Apr 1, 2023 02:45 |
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poo poo. Does tamiya primer only react well with tamiya and other lacquer based paints? I suspect this is why my vallejo paints are flaking off and not adhering as they're water based. Which sucks as tamiya primer sticks great to metal, but I don't want to reinvest in paint too. Google searches for a water based or appropriate metal primer for acrylics are decidedly unhelpful. Rustoleum is oil based according to the internet and idk if would get the same paint flaking problem without just testing it myself. Turbinosamente fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Apr 1, 2023 |
# ? Apr 1, 2023 15:42 |
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I have used rustoleum primer with acrylic paints with no problem at all
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# ? Apr 1, 2023 17:09 |
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I don't see why primer should make paint react that way? I use Mr Surfacer lacquer primer with Vallejo acrylic paints all the time. Are you letting the primer cure overnight? It generally takes a few minutes to dry but a little longer to cure.
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# ? Apr 1, 2023 17:13 |
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Turbinosamente posted:poo poo. Does tamiya primer only react well with tamiya and other lacquer based paints? I suspect this is why my vallejo paints are flaking off and not adhering as they're water based. Which sucks as tamiya primer sticks great to metal, but I don't want to reinvest in paint too. If you are having problem with the paint flaking one thing you could do is give the model a coat of thin varnish and then see if the paint applies better.
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# ? Apr 1, 2023 17:31 |
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Marx Headroom posted:I don't see why primer should make paint react that way? I use Mr Surfacer lacquer primer with Vallejo acrylic paints all the time. Are you letting the primer cure overnight? It generally takes a few minutes to dry but a little longer to cure. It's been primed for weeks. And I had a similar problem with that primer on bandai model plastic with the Sakura figure but I toughed it out because that one wont be handled at all. IncredibleIgloo posted:If you are having problem with the paint flaking one thing you could do is give the model a coat of thin varnish and then see if the paint applies better. I had considered trying this as well and since I'm mad at the paint job, and it flakes off so easily, I could scrub it off, try varnish, and re do it.
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# ? Apr 1, 2023 18:39 |
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Okay it's a double post, but more content! This is the fail figure I've been frustrated with. I can get paint on it only if the paint is completely un thinned with water. If it try to thin out my paints it just beads up on the primer so I've got some kinda hydrophobic surface going on. I don't know whether to blame the lacquer primer or if I hosed up by spraying it on too thick weeks ago when I did it. Any little accidental little touch, or bump with a fingernail, and the dry paint is instantly obliterated. The poor adhesion makes me worry and since I am not happy with the paint job so far I'm thinking of stripping it and starting over. Since this figure is also kept elsewhere I've started two other science experiments in the mean time: You can't tell but I've put a thin coat of varnish on this, as it was also primed forever ago with the lacquer primer. This should be a good stress test of everything as the figure is made from just about every possible material: wood, metal, glass, and stone. At least the varnish felt like it went on well, I won't know until it cures. I stripped, cleaned, sandpapered, cleaned again and dried this bunny pin to try vallejo's white primer on it. No idea how well it will stick to metal, but I figured it was worth a shot before I run out and get a rattle can of rustoleum. And now I will
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# ? Apr 1, 2023 20:55 |
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Turbinosamente posted:Okay it's a double post, but more content! I think there's a reason every Gunpla modeller under the sun uses Mr Surfacer and not Tamiya primer. Any regular primer will stick to metal, even GW's but adhesion is usually not great. You will need to put a lot of (gloss) varnish on top after you're done to protect your paint. If you don't varnish heavily you will need to keep handling to an absolute minimum. Spiky poo poo is a pain since the paint will rub off so easily the moment you touch it. Also it's always best to prime with a can or airbrush. I've never found hand brushing primer to be that great unless you're one of those weirdos that likes using gesso primer. If you are in the UK I can heartily recommend Halfords primers - either plastic or metal. They're meant to bond to bodywork and are excellent.
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# ? Apr 1, 2023 21:01 |
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Hello thread, long time no post. I've managed to clear out some of my backlog from the past year (or more...), and haven't yet learned how to paint faces in 32mm scale. All of these are prints from Loot, except the axe-and-shield giant which is an old metal mini from Reaper. I also tried out clear resin, which was a nightmare to work with and gave me somewhere around a 30% success rate, but the ones that worked let me try my hand at shoving LEDs up the mini's butts: Now I need to buy two large bases and light up the gelatinous cubes.
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 03:29 |
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Guzwar posted:Hello thread, long time no post. I've managed to clear out some of my backlog from the past year (or more...), and haven't yet learned how to paint faces in 32mm scale. All of these are prints from Loot, except the axe-and-shield giant which is an old metal mini from Reaper. Dude your work is incredible. Absolutely owns.
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 05:22 |
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Bought myself a small pen sander and filed all of my gallowdark terrain, best decision of my life and made setup so much faster than ever.
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 06:35 |
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So Plasmo, a brilliant plastic kit modeller did a WH40K APC thing https://youtu.be/rcNu1p29_B4 He is a great modeller and cool painter so well worth watching. The attention to detail is off the charts. But the kicker is he decided to paint it gold and chose to use gold leaf. The 18 sheets of 24 carat gold leaf worked out cheaper than a can of Citadel gold spray paint.
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 09:06 |
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Beffer posted:So Plasmo, a brilliant plastic kit modeller did a WH40K APC thing The gold leaf looks pretty bad imo. The prep before hand is good and really highlights how poor GW kits are compared to scale model tanks.
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 10:43 |
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I agree. I don’t like the gold at all. Everything else he does is very interesting and looks great (and the video is worth watching for this), but the gold looks like a gimmick gone wrong. Nevertheless, the fact that it is cheaper than the citadel spray….
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 11:04 |
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Paragon8 posted:The gold leaf looks pretty bad imo. The prep before hand is good and really highlights how poor GW kits are compared to scale model tanks. I feel like this is a bit of an apples to oranges comparison. My dad used to be great at scale models, he did racing cars, and they're a whole different thing to miniature stuff. He'd done a few Marines for me when I was a kid, and they look absolutely flat. On that Land Raider, look at the red panels on the guns or the sides. One colour, no shading, no highlight. It's just red. Which is fine for static modelling, it's the style in a way, hence why he did LEDs rather than OSL for example. Compare here: tangy yet delightful posted:
The sword isn't yellow and blue, it's got lava bubbling up from it. His feet don't have a different-coloured edge, they're catching the light. He doesn't have yellow/red protrusions, that is fire welling up. These are all things that, generally, wouldn't be represented at all in a Tamiya kit, for example. Dunno, I feel like the two are such different disciplines that it's difficult to draw direct connections or parallels, it's more novelty than anything else, if feels.
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 12:13 |
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Edit: fat thumbed
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 14:14 |
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The assembly prep that guy did on the land raider is no different from what these scale modelers do on every model kit. It's not that the kit is bad, it's that they want the model to be absolutely flawless and even improved, because they're maniacs. If you watch some scale modelers on youtube then the prep and assembly is usually like 2/3rds of the video.
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 14:32 |
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Z the IVth posted:Also it's always best to prime with a can or airbrush. I've never found hand brushing primer to be that great unless you're one of those weirdos that likes using gesso primer. I was going to ask about brush-on primer so this is as good a post to jump in on as any: I have some 40k models that I painted, then went back and did further conversions for, and so have now got them half painted, half bare plastic. What is my least bad option for priming the new parts? Back in the distant past there was a Citadel Colour pot called Smelly Primer but they don't seem to have a 2023 equivalent. (I know nothing about Gesso, so if someone could elaborate on what that is and why it appeals to weirdos that might be helpful too)
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 16:06 |
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Serperoth posted:I feel like this is a bit of an apples to oranges comparison. My dad used to be great at scale models, he did racing cars, and they're a whole different thing to miniature stuff. He'd done a few Marines for me when I was a kid, and they look absolutely flat. The top level scale modellers including Plasmo do a lot with shading and gradients on tanks and there's different schools in how much scale modellers push paint. Which is why this video is kind of disappointing because he does a lot more typically he's not doing here with the gimmick of the gold leaf. Definitely there's a lot of people that just go flat color and that's it but like minipainting there's a broad evolution with the internet sharing and pushing technique. For example here's a good illustration in how much you can do with different shades of green to build visual interest. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4AIY6x0b_4 Geisladisk posted:The assembly prep that guy did on the land raider is no different from what these scale modelers do on every model kit. It's not that the kit is bad, it's that they want the model to be absolutely flawless and even improved, because they're maniacs. I build scale models and GW stuff and that might definitely warp my perspective in what I'm expecting from GW vehicle kits but I am consistently disappointed by how they handle join lines on vehicles and find myself putting a lot of effort into filling and sanding what should mostly be disguised joints. Like the land raider is nearly two decades old at this point but it doesn't really feel like modern GW kits have made a huge step forward. Like while they are adjacent there is definitely some separation between the two especially around what the intended purpose is for them. A super detailed meng tank isn't going to hold up as a gaming piece but I do think it'd be cool for a high level scale model builder to push a GW tank as far as they can. I can't find any individual pictures of it but one of the big tank guys did a book on building a gundam and applying scale model techniques to it and it produced a really cool project - https://www.rinaldistudiopress.com/product-page/sm-03-sazabi-custom Sorry to have made this a GW vs scale model thing they're both different but I think there's a lot of cool stuff to be done where the hobbies overlap which is why its a little bit of a bummer to see a creator like Plasmo produce what I thought was not as interesting a video as I would have liked.
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 16:19 |
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It's an April fool's joke, you dweebs.
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 16:22 |
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grassy gnoll posted:It's an April fool's joke, you dweebs.
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 16:39 |
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ooops. my bad!
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 16:45 |
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grassy gnoll posted:It's an April fool's joke, you dweebs. Next you're gonna tell me Studson Studio didn't REALLY disassemble and recycle his Howls' Moving Castle by sucking the wash back up and reducing it back into a blob of paint that fits back in the tube.
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 17:19 |
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My favourite April Fool's video is undoubtedly Richard Gray's. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iH0suc0gZCk
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 18:03 |
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I wanted to use my old be'lakor model but raise up the base to the full height and dimensions of the new one so I could still use it without being cheaty. I wanted to have some fun with it, so I made a diorama. A very... silly diorama, where he decides to become a 1930s gumshoe detective. Detective Be'laknoir, daemon detective. About to be jumped by agents of the daemon gods, trying to drag him back. Noticed there was a halo I couldn't edit out due to a red wall behind me when I took the photos, so I'll probably retake, but I kinda wasn't able to edit them out. Harvey Mantaco fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Apr 2, 2023 |
# ? Apr 2, 2023 18:23 |
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Words cannot express my love for this.
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 19:08 |
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Harvey Mantaco posted:I wanted to use my old be'lakor model but raise up the base to the full height and dimensions of the new one so I could still use it without being cheaty. I wanted to have some fun with it, so I made a diorama. A very... silly diorama, where he decides to become a 1930s gumshoe detective. Detective Be'laknoir, daemon detective. About to be jumped by agents of the daemon gods, trying to drag him back. You are crushing this hobby under the weight of your massive talent
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 19:38 |
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MS Paints had a pretty good April Fools video https://youtu.be/GnzZq-AXjYQ
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 20:01 |
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# ? May 25, 2024 07:14 |
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The gumshoe demon is fantastic! --- I just wanted to drop by and post pictures of my IG platoon. I've been painting these dudes since the release of the plastic Cadians in 3rd edition, so there are some differences in both style and quality. The infantry portion is hopefully 100% done now, but I'm still missing a couple of vehicles. First up the complete command squad, with some advisors. Here are all my models that are painted in this camo scheme. The Castellan (up front) used to be a senior officer in a company command squad that got recycled into the shock troops and mortar squads in the new codex. The former veterans (2nd and 3rd row on the left) were rebuilt into another shock troops squad. Finally, just the platoon with transports. Still a pair of Chimeras short, or possibly a Chimera and another Taurox conversion (third from the left) if I feel up to it. The Chimera on the right belongs to the former veteran squad, and is included here for symmetry.
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# ? Apr 2, 2023 20:12 |