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Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Roller Coast Guard posted:

I was going to ask about brush-on primer so this is as good a post to jump in on as any: I have some 40k models that I painted, then went back and did further conversions for, and so have now got them half painted, half bare plastic. What is my least bad option for priming the new parts? Back in the distant past there was a Citadel Colour pot called Smelly Primer but they don't seem to have a 2023 equivalent.

(I know nothing about Gesso, so if someone could elaborate on what that is and why it appeals to weirdos that might be helpful too)

If I had to do some spot priming by hand, I'd go with Vallejo Mecha Primer Black. It brushes on decently with good adhesion and coverage. I wouldn't use a white primer as that will take forever to get anywhere - at which point you may have covered details. If you need a light undercolour I'd do a thin coat of black - just enough to cover the bare plastic then follow up with a mid grey/brown/blue depending on taste.

Gesso is the stuff artists use to prime canvas. It's super goopy and goes on thick but shrinks down so in theory you won't end up with a "thin ur paints" scenario. It's supposed to cover really well and by the photos posted it certainly looked good. There was a bunch of posters on TMP advocating for it in the late 00s. I've heard it does actually clog detail though so YMMV.

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Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Put the finishing touches on the mini for my D&D character in this new campaign my group started.

Devol Katsky: Bounty Hunter

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Harvey Mantaco posted:

I wanted to use my old be'lakor model but raise up the base to the full height and dimensions of the new one so I could still use it without being cheaty. I wanted to have some fun with it, so I made a diorama. A very... silly diorama, where he decides to become a 1930s gumshoe detective. Detective Be'laknoir, daemon detective. About to be jumped by agents of the daemon gods, trying to drag him back.

Noticed there was a halo I couldn't edit out due to a red wall behind me when I took the photos, so I'll probably retake, but I kinda wasn't able to edit them out.









This some straight up New Capenna poo poo and Iove it

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."

Silhouette posted:

This some straight up New Capenna poo poo and Iove it

Also thought this. Maybe all the souls consumed by the Ruinous Powers end up in the Warhammer Noir world, all murky pasts and expository internal monologues. Blood Bowl is basically a WHFB alternative continuity, they should do more settings like that. Or even just set more stuff in the Blood Bowl Old World where Orcs and Elves and Humans and Chaos miscellany can coexist in the same space.

I just finished off my Wraithbone spray partway through some Primaris Eradicators. Having decided firmly that I don't want to do any more base coating by hand beyond touchups, should I get more of GW's or are there good alternatives, maybe Army Painter?

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007





I think i'm done for now with my color scheme for this Vindicator

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

BizarroAzrael posted:

I just finished off my Wraithbone spray partway through some Primaris Eradicators. Having decided firmly that I don't want to do any more base coating by hand beyond touchups, should I get more of GW's or are there good alternatives, maybe Army Painter?

Cheap Black/White/Grey primer in the UK is Halfords.

Otherwise I don't think there's a big enough difference in price to worry about using one brand or the other - get whatever matches your paint and is most readily available. If you're in the UK shipping aerosols is expensive so it doesn't matter if Army Painter costs £3 less but I need to pay £6 to ship it vs buying it from my local GW.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

For the previous image, I'm going to run into some cloaks/cloth I will want to paint for the plum and green color I'm going with

looking at the color wheel, my first instinct is to go for red-orange, but it's a bit dangerously close to christmas colors, but I can't think of a better alternative, any ideas?

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

GreenBuckanneer posted:

For the previous image, I'm going to run into some cloaks/cloth I will want to paint for the plum and green color I'm going with

looking at the color wheel, my first instinct is to go for red-orange, but it's a bit dangerously close to christmas colors, but I can't think of a better alternative, any ideas?

Match it to their hair

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




GreenBuckanneer posted:

For the previous image, I'm going to run into some cloaks/cloth I will want to paint for the plum and green color I'm going with

looking at the color wheel, my first instinct is to go for red-orange, but it's a bit dangerously close to christmas colors, but I can't think of a better alternative, any ideas?

Scarlet.

Add a neutral grey to desaturate. A lot of grey.


Edit: or, grey-white base, glaze with magenta. (This sounds terrible, don’t do this)

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

GreenBuckanneer posted:





I think i'm done for now with my color scheme for this Vindicator

That looks fantastic, my only question is: when did gw start making stormcast that don't look like thunderbutt chunklords?

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Silhouette posted:

That looks fantastic, my only question is: when did gw start making stormcast that don't look like thunderbutt chunklords?

Those are the push-fit from the dominion box

Jonny Nox posted:

Scarlet.

Add a neutral grey to desaturate. A lot of grey.


Edit: or, grey-white base, glaze with magenta. (This sounds terrible, don’t do this)

Right, so, a red-orange, with a grey inside of the cloak?, or, a grey glaze on the red?

My Spirit Otter posted:

Match it to their hair

Yeah that would be easy enough to do, it's one color a wash and highlights, so it's a little harder on a cloak but doable.

GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Apr 4, 2023

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




GreenBuckanneer posted:


Right, so, a red-orange, with a grey inside of the cloak?, or, a grey glaze on the red?


Mix the red-orange with grey paint so the pigment is less dense. It should give more of a pastel color so the scarlet is there, but it never hits the saturation that makes you think “Christmas”. Or I’m overthinking it and you can just add matt medium to your paint. The point is to have less saturation on the capes so they don’t drown out the actual party pieces.


Would a grey glaze do the same? I don’t think I’ve ever tried.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
Metal mini question: I scrubbed them with soapy water, dried them off, but super glue is not sticking to these in any way shape or form. What glue should I use??

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



Lumpy posted:

Metal mini question: I scrubbed them with soapy water, dried them off, but super glue is not sticking to these in any way shape or form. What glue should I use??

Cyanoacrylate glue which is super glue. Shouldn't be older than 90 days though.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Cat Face Joe posted:

Cyanoacrylate glue which is super glue. Shouldn't be older than 90 days though.

Hmm. Well, I was super glueing stuff with this bottle this weekend and it was working just fine. But tonight on these metal buggers it’s not doing anything. Mini part to mini part or even holding a pin in. Weird.

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



Lumpy posted:

Hmm. Well, I was super glueing stuff with this bottle this weekend and it was working just fine. But tonight on these metal buggers it’s not doing anything. Mini part to mini part or even holding a pin in. Weird.

Maybe give them a rinse in iso or acetone. Might have some residue from the soap. Use your knife to rough up the joints. Use less glue than you think you need and then use capillary action to add more later if you think you need it. If you're able to, give it some extra pressure. That helps CA glue bond faster. Finally, if there's any old glue left on the parts it needs to come off. Glue doesn't like to stick to glue.

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Mini manufacturers should just start casting minis out of the skin from my fingers because goddamn does glue love to stick to that poo poo

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Lumpy posted:

Hmm. Well, I was super glueing stuff with this bottle this weekend and it was working just fine. But tonight on these metal buggers it’s not doing anything. Mini part to mini part or even holding a pin in. Weird.

Sometimes I find if the glue has been sitting for a while, the first little bit in the nozzle doesnt stick for poo poo, but the rest of the tube works fine, so maybe just put the lid on, waif for what you've tried already to put on to dry, scrape it back off (or use acetone), then when you come back to it squeeze out the first bit from the nozzle onto a tissue or something then try again. I dunno, could be some voodoo bullshit but its worked for me more than a few times, and superglue/CA glue is definitely the right glue for metal figures.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

I glued half my Nobz yesterday- no pinning, God help me.

Does anyone have any tips on painting Orky distressed red armor?

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Silhouette posted:

Mini manufacturers should just start casting minis out of the skin from my fingers because goddamn does glue love to stick to that poo poo

:emptyquote:

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."

Z the IVth posted:

Cheap Black/White/Grey primer in the UK is Halfords.

Otherwise I don't think there's a big enough difference in price to worry about using one brand or the other - get whatever matches your paint and is most readily available. If you're in the UK shipping aerosols is expensive so it doesn't matter if Army Painter costs £3 less but I need to pay £6 to ship it vs buying it from my local GW.

See I'm sure that used to be true but their website says they're £10 now which isn't so much cheaper than getting a Bone spray from Bad Moon Cafe or Dark Sphere. Unless they quietly put the markup for shipping aerosols into their website price and they'll be cheaper in store? Annoyingly there used to be one on the highstreet a three minute walk from here but it's now closed down.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Cat Face Joe posted:

Maybe give them a rinse in iso or acetone. Might have some residue from the soap. Use your knife to rough up the joints. Use less glue than you think you need and then use capillary action to add more later if you think you need it. If you're able to, give it some extra pressure. That helps CA glue bond faster. Finally, if there's any old glue left on the parts it needs to come off. Glue doesn't like to stick to glue.

Thanks for this. Will give this a whirl tonight.

Meatlong Football
Feb 11, 2008


Finally painted enough boyz that I feel confident putting paint on sculpts I like and still liking them afterwards. Some WIP shots to get me to finish these.

Couple kommandos that I let age the appropriate length of time on the sprue. I used an ancient pot of citadel blue wash and it was much inkier than I expected. Glad to get the blue clothing back to smoothish.

And a bad moon boss that is nearly as old as I am. Enjoyed painting this more than I expected while I needed a break from the kommandos.

Not sure what to do with the backplate and that left elbow chips paint at even the suggestion of light contact.



Lumpy posted:

Metal mini question: I scrubbed them with soapy water, dried them off, but super glue is not sticking to these in any way shape or form. What glue should I use??
I had to pin my nobz, and deep. They would fall apart at even the slightest glance and were no end in frustration for me 20 years ago. The slicing on those models was done so haphazardly that any kind of glue was insufficient. I received an incorrect bitz order of mega armor power klaws back in the day and they were clearly sliced with large flat surfaces and an index point which would have been a godsend on the models I was trying to attach them to. Don't get me started about my boss poles.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Those are some stellar space orks.

Cannibal Smiley
Feb 20, 2013

Silhouette posted:

Mini manufacturers should just start casting minis out of the skin from my fingers because goddamn does glue love to stick to that poo poo

That's one of the reasons why it's used in the medical field - it glues skin together really, really well.

"Cyanoacrylate glue is widely used in human and veterinary medicine.[6] It was in veterinary use for mending bone, hide, and tortoise shell by the early 1970s or before. A cyanoacrylate spray was used in the Vietnam War to reduce bleeding in wounded soldiers until they could be taken to a hospital.[7] n-Butyl cyanoacrylate has been used medically since the 1970s. In the US, due to its potential to irritate the skin, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) did not approve its use as a medical adhesive until 1998 with Dermabond (2-octyl cyanoacrylate).[8] A 1986 independent study suggests that cyanoacrylate can be safer and more functional for wound closure than traditional suturing (stitches).[9] Although cyanoacrylates are widely used for sutureless wound repair, "existing adhesives still lack sufficient adhesion strength to completely replace sutures and staples."[6]"

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Meatlong Football posted:

Finally painted enough boyz that I feel confident putting paint on sculpts I like and still liking them afterwards. Some WIP shots to get me to finish these.

Couple kommandos that I let age the appropriate length of time on the sprue. I used an ancient pot of citadel blue wash and it was much inkier than I expected. Glad to get the blue clothing back to smoothish.

And a bad moon boss that is nearly as old as I am. Enjoyed painting this more than I expected while I needed a break from the kommandos.

Not sure what to do with the backplate and that left elbow chips paint at even the suggestion of light contact.


I had to pin my nobz, and deep. They would fall apart at even the slightest glance and were no end in frustration for me 20 years ago. The slicing on those models was done so haphazardly that any kind of glue was insufficient. I received an incorrect bitz order of mega armor power klaws back in the day and they were clearly sliced with large flat surfaces and an index point which would have been a godsend on the models I was trying to attach them to. Don't get me started about my boss poles.

Absolutely stellar, thank you for posting these!

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."
Mostly done on my Eradicators



I think the paint got a bit though in spots from the number of layers, I think I need to refine my technique. I'm thinking full Wrathbone basecoat, then maybe white from above before Skeletal Horde shading rather than a full wash. Highlight Putrid Wychflesh, highlight White.

I've not used any metallics, Basilica Grey for the metal of the guns and things, what do we think? And how do the Aquilas look, suggestions on alternative colours?

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Jonny Nox posted:

Mix the red-orange with grey paint so the pigment is less dense. It should give more of a pastel color so the scarlet is there, but it never hits the saturation that makes you think “Christmas”. Or I’m overthinking it and you can just add matt medium to your paint. The point is to have less saturation on the capes so they don’t drown out the actual party pieces.


Would a grey glaze do the same? I don’t think I’ve ever tried.



This is what I ended up going with for the cloak colors on this Praetor (though the praetors seem to kind of stink it's whatever. they look cool)

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry
Picked up some warhams in october for the first time in a decade+, and painted three crimson fist reivers, the first I think I already posted. The dual wieldy boy was kind of dropped midway as I got caught up in other things.
I put a couple of finishing touches on it earlier this week, but I struggled a bit to pick up where I left off, so it ended up kind of meh

Just finished the dark angel, and I'm pretty happy with painting a face that didn't look like a total catastrophe, and it was fun to paint a mostly mono-color mini and have to rely on highlighting to make it pop- I saved the catastrophe for my incredibly embarrassing attempt at freehand on the shoulder pad, but I will own it and share my shame. My painting skills just aren't quite there yet, I think!
I was gonna do some freehand on that shoulder shield as well but uh, I think I'll just leave it bare until I get ahold of some dark angel transfers or something.









I'm using an improvised wet pallet, but I think I really need to water down my paints more, or wait longer before layering, because on the close ups I see that I've really caked it on in places. If anyone has any feedback to a novice, I'd appreciate it!

Bohemian Nights fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Apr 5, 2023

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

BizarroAzrael posted:

See I'm sure that used to be true but their website says they're £10 now which isn't so much cheaper than getting a Bone spray from Bad Moon Cafe or Dark Sphere. Unless they quietly put the markup for shipping aerosols into their website price and they'll be cheaper in store? Annoyingly there used to be one on the highstreet a three minute walk from here but it's now closed down.

Halfords pricing has gone up a lot, it's nearly the same price as GW now shockingly. I buy mine in person and can confirm they're about a tenner a pop.

One thing about them I've noticed is they're pretty much failure proof. Spray them in the heat/cold/humid and it'll still come out OK. The GW paints I've had, particularly white scar and wraithbone have been far more temperamental and prone to dusting if it's too humid or cold?

Posigniat
May 31, 2011

Bohemian Nights posted:

Picked up some warhams in october for the first time in a decade+, and painted three crimson fist reivers, the first I think I already posted. The dual wieldy boy was kind of dropped midway as I got caught up in other things.
I put a couple of finishing touches on it earlier this week, but I struggled a bit to pick up where I left off, so it ended up kind of meh

Just finished the dark angel, and I'm pretty happy with painting a face that didn't look like a total catastrophe, and it was fun to paint a mostly mono-color mini and have to rely on highlighting to make it pop- I saved the catastrophe for my incredibly embarrassing attempt at freehand on the shoulder pad, but I will own it and share my shame. My painting skills just aren't quite there yet, I think!
I was gonna do some freehand on that shoulder shield as well but uh, I think I'll just leave it bare until I get ahold of some dark angel transfers or something.









I'm using an improvised wet pallet, but I think I really need to water down my paints more, or wait longer before layering, because on the close ups I see that I've really caked it on in places. If anyone has any feedback to a novice, I'd appreciate it!

I just watched this video on paint thinning and it was really helpful!

https://youtu.be/sBDVPoNXyVI

Axetrain
Sep 14, 2007

What are you guys using for varnish/sealer? I’m gonna add some of those transfers to my 40k minis.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.
Ive had good luck with army painter satin spray varnish on non-glossy paint jobs. Glossy paintjobs will cloud up pretty good, rip chaos termies

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry

Posigniat posted:

I just watched this video on paint thinning and it was really helpful!

https://youtu.be/sBDVPoNXyVI

Thanks, this video seems great, I'll check it out and try his process before painting my next duder

For my intercessors, I was thinking I'd paint them all in different chapter schemes since I used to only paint what basically amounted to ultramarine successors, and if I'm to have any hope of painting an imperial fist, I certainly won't get a good result without some proper thinning

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.

Posigniat posted:

I just watched this video on paint thinning and it was really helpful!

https://youtu.be/sBDVPoNXyVI

oh my god I've been suffering alot with my tau pathfiders this is really super useful thanks!

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
were you just not thinning your paints?

Bored Online
May 25, 2009

We don't need Rome telling us what to do.

Z the IVth posted:

Halfords pricing has gone up a lot, it's nearly the same price as GW now shockingly. I buy mine in person and can confirm they're about a tenner a pop.

One thing about them I've noticed is they're pretty much failure proof. Spray them in the heat/cold/humid and it'll still come out OK. The GW paints I've had, particularly white scar and wraithbone have been far more temperamental and prone to dusting if it's too humid or cold?

This is interesting to me because grey seer and wraithbone have been a nightmare, but I never had issue with white scar.

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.

Spanish Manlove posted:

were you just not thinning your paints?

the problem was that I was not able to find a decent balance between thining and coverage, all the time while I was working with any color it would have zero coverage and would be too thin, leading me to try to make it thicker and thicker, but also, there were times when I would just take the paint as is, remove the paint as much as possible on the pallete, then apply, so it ends up being too thin or caked on.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Bored Online posted:

This is interesting to me because grey seer and wraithbone have been a nightmare, but I never had issue with white scar.

I might be getting mixed up because I've not used white scar so much and might have just overdone it to try and get better coverage

Wraithbone definitely dusts when environmental conditions are averse though. Leadbelcher, Retributor and Zandri have all been fine for me.

Halfords Black and Grey though, silky smooth, all the time, rain or shine.

Axetrain posted:

What are you guys using for varnish/sealer? I’m gonna add some of those transfers to my 40k minis.

The best gloss coat is Klear/Pledge acrylic floor wax. It's cheaper than even artist grade stuff and is the go to for scale modellers for a good 2 decades now. Apply with airbrush for best results but can also be brushed on for spot gloss effects.

My personal favourite matt varnish is Winsor & Newton Galeria Matte. Again goes on best with an airbrush though you can also brush it on.

I would generally go paint -> Gloss -> Decals -> Gloss -> weathering pigments/chipping -> matte/gloss+Matte.

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with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Crosspost from the 30k and Oath threads. I finished my Night Lords praetor in terminator armor. Now that I took the photo I noticed I have to go back and fix the light on his right leg.

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