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Captain Log posted:So the general consensus is that CarPlay is a good thing? I had no complaints while I was using Carplay before I got rid of my iPhone. Seamless and does what's needed. This was on an OEM head unit though. I think it's probably an even better idea to get Carplay if you don't already have a ton of car specific functions (like my car had augumented reality and showed arrows "on the road" in the HUD, but didn't work with anything but the stock navigation) and you are just adding to "nothing". Lowclock posted:I was curious so I checked and somehow this isn't actually true. Lmao, I knew there would be an exception to the rule!
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Mar 29, 2023 18:34
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Captain Log posted:So the general consensus is that CarPlay is a good thing? I like it because it puts the nav, music apps, etc on a nice big solidly mounted display. BT is nice, but you still have to use the phone for Nav and some music apps. CarPlay currently works with Google Maps, Apple Maps, and Waze, for example, and a host of music streaming apps.
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Mar 29, 2023 19:13
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MrOnBicycle posted:Lmao, I knew there would be an exception to the rule! DrChu posted:More misadventures with the 2011 Legacy. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Mar 30, 2023 |
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Mar 29, 2023 19:34
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Lowclock posted:Pioneer is fuckin crazy. That thing must just be parts left over from 20 years ago they still think someone will buy, but its NINETY DOLLARS. Anyone who would buy that is out of their mind since even a $25 Dual deck from Wal-mart has bluetooth now. That pioneer will definitely sound better and most likely work forever than some cheap Chinese junk, but it's probably just there for a specific market segment and to provide a floor for their pricing.
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Mar 30, 2023 01:40
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Anyone here ever use RSNAV? I have a 2019 Audi and am debating between installing a RSNAV unit and getting the infortainmernt screen from the facelifted model. Basically I'm looking for a bigger screen. They both work out to be about the same cost but the RSNAV would have the advantage of giving me touchscreen capability to use with CarPlay. I know it has a lot of other functions since it's essentially an Android tablet but I'm not interested in watching Netflix in my car or playing games.
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Apr 4, 2023 13:56
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Mr. Apollo posted:Anyone here ever use RSNAV? I have a 2019 Audi and am debating between installing a RSNAV unit and getting the infortainmernt screen from the facelifted model. Basically I'm looking for a bigger screen. They both work out to be about the same cost but the RSNAV would have the advantage of giving me touchscreen capability to use with CarPlay. I know it has a lot of other functions since it's essentially an Android tablet but I'm not interested in watching Netflix in my car or playing games. If you get the facelift, doesn’t that give you a touchscreen? I know the face lifted big screen Q5 ditches the knob (RIP) for a touchscreen, figure the rest of the Audis would as well. I have a 2011 Q5 with https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07YZQN4SF?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title and it rules. I love the knob.
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Apr 4, 2023 15:32
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RIP Paul Walker posted:If you get the facelift, doesn’t that give you a touchscreen? I know the face lifted big screen Q5 ditches the knob (RIP) for a touchscreen, figure the rest of the Audis would as well.
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Apr 5, 2023 05:52
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MrOnBicycle posted:I had no complaints while I was using Carplay before I got rid of my iPhone. Seamless and does what's needed. This was on an OEM head unit though. I think it's probably an even better idea to get Carplay if you don't already have a ton of car specific functions (like my car had augumented reality and showed arrows "on the road" in the HUD, but didn't work with anything but the stock navigation) and you are just adding to "nothing". Darchangel posted:I like it because it puts the nav, music apps, etc on a nice big solidly mounted display. Awesome, I appreciate the input. I've found out whoever put this $800 head unit (in 2013 bucks) did so at the cost of having a functioning USB or AUX outlet. They picked a model that required them to be disconnected. The rear backup camera is also garbage, looking like it has been smeared with vaseline. I don't use backup cameras, but it irritates me. The bigger irritation is the steering wheel controls are like pressing a random button. They don't do anything reliably. I'd like those to work. They also made it to where the dealership doesn't know how to apply a recall update to my car's computer. They're going to call me when they figure it out. I'm going to replace it in time, and put some effort into finding one that actually integrates with my car. I also desperately need a sub. Anything with solid bass sounds like a ratfart, even with new speakers.
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Apr 5, 2023 12:32
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Captain Log posted:I've found out whoever put this $800 head unit (in 2013 bucks) did so at the cost of having a functioning USB or AUX outlet. They picked a model that required them to be disconnected. Captain Log posted:I'm going to replace it in time, and put some effort into finding one that actually integrates with my car. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Apr 5, 2023 |
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Apr 5, 2023 22:32
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Lowclock posted:What do you mean? That deck has multiple USB inputs and even aux video input. They're not even shared with anything else. The USB and AUX inputs native to the car beneath my dash are dead. Apparently, selecting a head unit with a DVD/CD player knocks them out...for reasons. I did a lot of searching on Spark forums to find out that wonderful information. Unless I've had a stroke, the unit itself doesn't have any inputs on the front, either. Well, other than the MicroUSB I used to update the firmware.
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Apr 6, 2023 04:26
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It's a little ugly, but you can always run extension cords from the rear USB ports.
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Apr 6, 2023 05:15
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Looks like you just need a mini-USB cable to hook the factory USB jack to the back of your current deck, but you may need to make your own little splice to TRRS adapter deal for the aux port because I don't see any ready made ones.
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Apr 6, 2023 08:30
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Captain Log posted:The USB and AUX inputs native to the car beneath my dash are dead. Apparently, selecting a head unit with a DVD/CD player knocks them out...for reasons. I did a lot of searching on Spark forums to find out that wonderful information. Yeah, some one just didn't want to put in the work to *make* them work. At the very worst, they can be replaced with panel-mount standard jacks.
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Apr 6, 2023 20:19
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Captain Log posted:the unit itself doesn't have any inputs on the front Unfortunately, this has become the norm. I always run a USB cable to the glove box (for firmware updates, plugging in my phone, etc), and if the head unit puts out at least 1 amp on the USB ports, I'll plug a dashcam into the back to power it (most of the single camera dashcams work fine with a 1 amp supply). I'm going to be replacing the head unit in my current car soon, which brings me to this.... 2008 Lexus ES 350 "Premium Plus" trim, non-navigation, 1 step above the basic stereo - looking to go to an Android Auto unit. Is there an adapter to keep the factory aux input working, or do I have to ditch it? I like that it's hidden in the center console, though it wouldn't be that hard to swap another jack into the same housing (the housing pops right out; I had to replace it when I got the car since the jack was dead). Also, the models with navigation had the HVAC and stereo swapped around (HVAC on bottom, stereo/nav on top - mine is HVAC on top, stereo on bottom) - would it be possible to swap them on mine without it looking like rear end? I know the dash kit for my car keeps the temp buttons in their current location; I'm thinking maybe I can use a dash kit for a nav-equipped car instead? It kinda looks like they pulled a Subaru and just used a 4 or 5 DIN cage for the entire center stack, so I THINK I can probably do it with the proper dash kit. Or maybe this is a question better suited for Crutchfield... Anyone know how the 8 speakers are split up, and what kind of load they wind up as? I'm guessing there's crossovers in the front doors, but the center speaker in the dash is a bit of ???, plus the (very tired) factory sub. This isn't the fancypants Mark Levinson stereo, it's just 1 step above base (only difference is it has very basic bluetooth calling support), so there shouldn't be separate amps for anything. I'm fine with ditching the factory sub if needed, it's seen better days (and I have a 12" + amp sitting in storage anyway). It'd also be nice to use the factory mic if possible; it's integrated into the headliner, and I'm told it's very clear. I've yet to have an aftermarket stereo with a decent mic for phone calls..
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Apr 11, 2023 11:41
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STR posted:
So this is probably very easy to do, but I have to ask how often do you still use this? I thought I would get mine working in my 2018 Camry, but I have yet to actually need to use it since Bluetooth and wireless AA are my life now. There's a port right there in the front of the unit on the off-chance I do need one, and most phones don't even come with headphone outputs anymore. Anyways, there's probably a way to run a wire to the factory one and use an adapter easily bought online to convert to the Toyota end. Most aftermarket radios will have a way to do this, but post what you're looking for and we can walk you through it. Also, crutchfield's website is really good for making sure you get everything working the way you want. They'll usually tell you if you're going to lose a functionality if you upgrade.
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Apr 11, 2023 14:34
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Honestly, it'd only be for passengers (I do a good bit of Uber/Lyft.. for now). Younger passengers often want to play their own music (I usually have an 80s/90s pop rock/alternative playlist going, generally unoffensive to anyone over 25). At the moment, I have a bluetooth to 3.5mm adapter plugged in to said aux input. I'm happy to throw on whatever I can on Youtube Music, but that's the only streaming music app I have on my phone (I pay for youtube premium, so at least there's no ads on it...). Every now and then someone actually asks if I have an aux cable and I have to say no. It's pretty rare, but it does happen. And TBH the main reason I want to keep it working is because.... it's there. I want it to work whenever I sell the car. Short answer is I use it every time I drive, but only because the factory head unit doesn't have streaming music; it supports BT for phone calls, but not streaming. But with paying passengers, it's easier to just hand them a cable instead of letting them pair to my stereo (or in this case, my aptX-HD to 3.5mm adapter).
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Apr 11, 2023 14:59
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STR posted:2008 Lexus ES 350 "Premium Plus" trim, non-navigation, 1 step above the basic stereo
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Apr 11, 2023 19:52
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I've been wanting to upgrade my head unit in my Jeep Cherokee to something with Android Auto, but it's pricey no matter if I go 3rd party or first party, from what I've seen. Meh has this standalone unit for $99 today. I know it won't be top tier but seems it might be a decent alternative to spending $500+ upgrading my existing unit. Total garbage? Car and Driver INTELLIDASH with Apple Carplay and Android Auto, 7'' IPS Touchscreen Multimedia Player with Bluetooth, Mirror Link, SiriusXM, Google, Siri Assistant Dash or Windshield Mounted (Wired) 
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Apr 21, 2023 15:17
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That sort of device is handy if upgrading the car’s system is not practical or desired (classic cars, or yours where it’s expensive.) Only negative I see from the specs is that the only connection method to the host system is FM. That’s great for older cars, but I’d prefer the option to use a dedicated aux cable to the car. It has an “in” but no “out”.
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Apr 21, 2023 16:09
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Darchangel posted:That sort of device is handy if upgrading the car’s system is not practical or desired (classic cars, or yours where it’s expensive.) Oh gross, yeah that's a pass then. Thanks.
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Apr 21, 2023 21:43
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Darchangel posted:That sort of device is handy if upgrading the car’s system is not practical or desired (classic cars, or yours where it’s expensive.) It will connect over AUX, FM, or your phone can do the BT Audio if that's all your head unit has:  
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Apr 21, 2023 22:10
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toplitzin posted:It will connect over AUX, FM, or your phone can do the BT Audio if that's all your head unit has: Oh, the Specifications page on Meh did not say that. Nice catch. edit: comments say it's a typo in the description, and point to the PDF of the user manual, which is as you picture. Much better. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Apr 21, 2023 |
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Apr 21, 2023 23:55
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Just some random notes for ATOTO F7 XE Firmware Updates. A.) Their site is total garbage for trying to find exactly what you need. My exact model number wasn't listed and even getting to the closest variant... the directions for WHAT you need exactly are totally unclear. So just reach out to support with your model/serial number and you'll get direct links to exactly what you need. B.) The head units are particularly sensitive about what you use. The instructions from the support rep said to use an SD Card (there's an SD Card *and* USB Port on front) no bigger than 8 gb. Well I had SD Cards 32 gig and above but no 8GB. I did, however, have an 8GB thumb drive. So I decided to use that (formatted FAT32). There are two things you need to update when updating an ATOTO headset. The MCU firmware and the SOC firmware. (Microcontroller and System on a Chip) I used the 8GB for the MCU and it updated just fine. But when I used it for the SOC... the screen would just go black and it sat there forever. Turns out it just didn't like that thumbdrive for whatever reason. I switched to a 32GB SD Card for the SOC firmware and it updated just fine. So... TMYK for updating ATOTO firmwares.
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May 5, 2023 17:57
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Did you notice any benefit from updating my the firmware? I working on installing one now that’s basically just going to be used for CarPlay so it may not even be worthwhile for me to update.
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May 5, 2023 18:15
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DrChu posted:Did you notice any benefit from updating my the firmware? I working on installing one now that’s basically just going to be used for CarPlay so it may not even be worthwhile for me to update. The only reason I did it is because I was having this issue where when I turn on the car... it doesn't boot to home screen. The unit booted up fine and AA connected fine (my music would start playing like normal), but it would just sit there on the wallpaper with no icons until I hit the home button. So, functionally fine... just an extra button press on bootup that was annoying. So far it seems to have fixed that problem... but also I had to factory reset the unit before doing it so who knows if that's actually what solved it instead! And as far as I can tell there's no useful changelog anywhere so... who knows.
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May 5, 2023 18:33
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Mine F7 XE still reboots randomly , even after updating the firmware. For awhile the unit kept losing the date. I would have to reset it from 19-loving-70 to today's date and time before it would let Android Auto connect. I was surprised that my rental Santa Fe this past week also crashed the Android Auto interface, just like my F7 XE does. Maybe it's just Android Auto, my phone (S22 ultra), or something else.
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May 5, 2023 18:59
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After taking some time off from working on it I realized we've got a road trip next month and I'd like the Legacy wrapped up before that. How I last left it before today: In my last posts I was having issues with the audio going to the amp being either too quiet if using the RCA outs, or too loud if using the speakers, as well as some low-level background hiss at all times. The hiss seems to have been solved with a ground loop isolator (metal box on the lower left side). For the output level, I found the blue Scosche line out converter on Amazon. However I'm not using it as a LOC, it has a setting that can attenuate speaker volume and keep that as a speaker out for factory amps, so I have that at about 50% and it seems like the factory amp is happy getting that kind of signal, as it sounds more alive than using the RCAs and I can turn it up without distorting now. Today I added a 12V to 6V step down converter to power the factory reverse camera. It took some digging through the factory wiring diagrams to find which cables to tap to get the reverse gear signal, video, and power to the camera but I got those sorted out now. The only thing left is getting the steering wheel controls working. I've check the wiring a few times and I should be plugged into the correct wires coming out of the car's harness. I've even hooked up a multimeter and verified the values change when I push the buttons. But the head unit doesn't sense any activity when I press any of the them. I need to double check the SWC resistance values with the head unit's wiring harness connected, maybe I have a bad connection or ground. There's not a specific SWC - wire on the harness, and everywhere online seems to say to just connect it to the rest of the grounds which I have (black terminal block on the left). I'm also going to try the 3.5mm SWC input with a generic control unit I got to try something with our other car.
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May 17, 2023 22:00
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...why in the name of all that's holy would you design a car accessory to be powered by 6V? Engineers sometimes, I swear. Good call on the LOC. Sounds like it was intended for exactly that. I don't know about your head unit, but I had to "train" my Atoto, even with the Atoto universal remote. Kind of like picking controls on a video game - select the function on the radio, then hit the button you want to be that function on the remote.
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May 19, 2023 23:49
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Yeah, I’ve tried the setting where you press the function in the head unit, then it tells you to press the corresponding steering wheel control but nothing ever happens, it doesn’t recognize any button press. I’m hoping it’s just a bad ground or something.
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May 20, 2023 08:21
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Does anyone do intentionally 'retro (mid-1980s/early 1990s) styled single or double DIN units? I have some mid-90s JDM cars coming in soon (MR2, Celica, etc.) and I'm half tempted to transplant guts of a BT audio adapter into the factory head units to maintain the look.
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May 21, 2023 21:22
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I’ve posted many times about a retro cheap BT head unit here I’ve put in a lot of kei trucks
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May 21, 2023 21:57
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Finished up the Legacy today. I struggled with the steering wheel control wiring for another hour, redoing all the connections and finding a few things I had done wrong. Most wiring diagrams for the main 20 pin connector say pin 13 is for the second SWC wire, however I found another that said it could also be pin 11. The difference is apparently due to what kind of bluetooth it was originally equipped with and it also changed mid-generation to further muddy things up. I have no idea what the line I was trying to connect to does but luckily it doesn't seem to have caused any problems. The second issue is I had the two positive lines reversed. In Atoto land the line labelled "Steering Wheel Key # (+)" corresponds to SWC 1+, while the one marked "Steering Wheel Key (+)" goes to SWC 2+. Once I swapped those I was able to assign the buttons. The final mess:  I figured I'd never notice the sloppily cut hole to pass the USB cable through once it's in place in the car, but there's definitely an angle that I can see it. Ready to receive the unit. So many vampire taps, since I only had an adapter for the main harness, I used the taps to get to the wires I needed on the other ones.   Unnecessary detail I'm recording in case I want to make a posting to some Subaru forum or Reddit This line provides the reverse gear signal to the head unit. I have this connected not only to the reverse trigger on the head unit, but also the 12V to 6V step down converter which powers the factory camera.  Grabbing the video signal out of these. The other half of this cable is a regular RCA cable connected to the rear camera video-in on the back of the head unit.  Same connector, this is the line to provide the 6V to power the camera.  This line is the remote turn on wire for the factory amplifier.  Everything put back together.  Reverse works (no shots of the SWC in action).  There are still a couple issues but I don't think I'll be dealing with them, since this is primarily my partner's car and she doesn't really mind these things and its working well enough for me for our planned summer trips: The factory subwoofer is noticeably weaker than with the stock head unit (which was not great to begin with). I'm not sure how its set up other than it also relies on the factory underseat amp and seems to be tied into the rear speaker volume. Since she primarily listens to audio books and on longer trips we tend to end up with podcasts this is not a biggy. At low volumes there's a noticeable "pulsing" of the the sound level. This also occurs with the stock head unit, so maybe the amp is a bit buggy, but when the overall volume is set low the level seems to fade in and out a bit. I'm not about to drop a couple hundred on another used amp to test things out so I'm also ignoring this for now. The rear camera seems to look worse than the stock head unit. I didn't think to A/B them when everything was apart, but overall it seems to have a lower quality picture and the fact the camera is offset seems to be more noticeable now. In the last picture above you can see top of the rear bumper cover and it has a bit of a fisheye effect that I never noticed before. It still works well enough to not hit other things when parking so it'll do for now. As for the headunit, its an Atoto F7 XE that I paid a whole $138.31 after taxes from Atoto's eBay store. Its fine. It could be a bit faster/more responsive, and some (on-screen) buttons are annoyingly close to the edges of the screen. Its going to spend the majority of its life in CarPlay, but the FM tuner seems fine. The screen actually looks really nice, however I put the included anti-glare screen protector on so it looks a little fuzzy now. There's no DSP or anything like that. I'm hoping I can customize the home screen a little just to remove the stuff we won't use like XM Radio. The little pinhole mic on the front next to the screen is a little weak, but it does include an external mic to plug in that I didn't feel like find a place for so I'm not using it yet, possibly ever. Also, it supports Wireless CarPlay but I haven't tried that yet as I'm used to plugging in since it seems to drain my phone faster than I'd like.
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May 21, 2023 23:35
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everdave posted:I’ve posted many times about a retro cheap BT head unit here I’ve put in a lot of kei trucks Checked your posts here -- is it the Ali special head unit?
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May 22, 2023 02:49
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Wow I have the same year and trim outback and had the same head unit (I later changed to a larger size) The HK amp does its own low-pass filtering from the L/R F/R signal, and I think the default Atoto settings set the LPF and cut them from the main audio channels, where the amp would split them from. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 07:20 on May 22, 2023 |
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May 22, 2023 07:12
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DrChu posted:Finished up the Legacy today. I struggled with the steering wheel control wiring for another hour, redoing all the connections and finding a few things I had done wrong. Most wiring diagrams for the main 20 pin connector say pin 13 is for the second SWC wire, however I found another that said it could also be pin 11. The difference is apparently due to what kind of bluetooth it was originally equipped with and it also changed mid-generation to further muddy things up. I have no idea what the line I was trying to connect to does but luckily it doesn't seem to have caused any problems. The second issue is I had the two positive lines reversed. In Atoto land the line labelled "Steering Wheel Key # (+)" corresponds to SWC 1+, while the one marked "Steering Wheel Key (+)" goes to SWC 2+. Once I swapped those I was able to assign the buttons.  There is a reason I'll pay for a pre-wired harness. Jesus Tap Dancing Christ. Because of an unexpected cost of a dental issue involving biting down on a bone in store-bought sausage, the rest of the system going into my Spark has been delayed a couple of months. After doing some unrelated modifications to other parts of the car, I'm 100% sure I'm going to be paying someone to do the head unit and sub. I could do it if my legs worked properly, but running wire would be God awful. --- Question about subs --- I have no desire to rattle my neighbors windows, and I drive a Chevy Spark. But the speakers I've installed can barely handle any bass without bottoming out. Are there any "compact" subs worth a poo poo? I've visited about four different shops, and got completely different answers from each of them. An under the seat, compact power sub would be ideal from a space saving perspective, but I don't want to pay for what would amount to underpowered junk.
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May 22, 2023 12:42
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Even just upgrading stock speakers with an aftermarket head unit can make a difference, but a small sub can definitely add much needed bass if your speakers are too small.
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May 22, 2023 14:04
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Wasabi the J posted:Wow I have the same year and trim outback and had the same head unit (I later changed to a larger size) I'll take a look through those settings to make sure the LPF is turned off. When I was testing the wiring with the fade/balance controls I noticed as soon as the rear speakers were out of the mix the sub was doing nothing so I figured the amp was just grabbing the signal from them. Captain Log posted:
If there was a pre-wired harness I would have definitely gotten one. Nobody makes one for this generation of Legacy/Outback, I think because there were several different head units, bluetooth was an add-on, the reverse camera could be in the rearview mirror or the headunit depending on trim, the underseat amp, etc. In my BRZ I have one of these - https://cerwinvega.com/12-shallow-spare-tire-powered-subwoofer-vpstx12.html. It takes up negligible space (it pushes up the trunk shelf maybe half an inch), its not the most powerful thing but definitely adds some low end the door speakers are lacking. I also looked into under-seat ones but there was not enough room, but I imagine the seats in your Spark sit a little higher so you should be able to find something that fits. Your whole car is not going to shake, but you'll feel the kick drums and low bass at least.
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May 22, 2023 16:47
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movax posted:Checked your posts here -- is it the Ali special head unit? They rename these random names, but I bought a couple of these at once and I’ve been pulling them out of boxes and installing them and they are fine. I didn’t pay $30 though more like $18-20. I’m sure they are on ali as well 
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May 22, 2023 16:49
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Nocheez posted:Even just upgrading stock speakers with an aftermarket head unit can make a difference, but a small sub can definitely add much needed bass if your speakers are too small. The head unit was replaced with a top of the line (ten years ago) Pioneer Avic-NEX6000. It's glitchy as gently caress and a lot of the features don't work. But it's a decade old. I upgraded the stock speakers myself, and even managed to cram a bigger size into the back with some creative jimmy-jamming. But even a nice pair of 4x4s and 4x6s doesn't do much. I'm from the south but was born to an immigrant father, so I almost exclusive listen to old techno and rap when I'm driving. I want some bass, God damnit. Someone helped the hell out of my questions earlier in this thread, so I've decided to replace the head unit with something that does wireless Apple Play and add a sub. I could do the head unit myself, but there are steering wheel controls that I want to work. Currently, they do not, and Crutchfield is indefinitely sold out of the harnesses I'd need to make it work. I'm just trying to get a straight answer about a good sub that's not a ripoff, and literally every store salesperson has given me conflicting advice.
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May 22, 2023 16:54
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Captain Log posted:I'm just trying to get a straight answer about a good sub that's not a ripoff, and literally every store salesperson has given me conflicting advice. Bass in a car is so subjective. My advice is to get the biggest thing you can fit that won’t compromise the car more than you’re willing to compromise and just accept the result (and also keep in mind that modern DSP can make magic happen, to a point, so do consider that when buying a head unit and choosing an installer). To illustrate how weirdly subjective bass in a car can be, I am the same person and have the same level of satisfaction with my Miata’s Bose system as I do with the B&O in my Q5, even if the Q5’s system is objectively way better. I think it has to do with knowing that the system is as good as it’ll get, and anything more would compromise the car in an unacceptable way.
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May 22, 2023 17:49
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