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FizFashizzle
Mar 30, 2005







Motronic posted:

Is this person looking for the word "linoleum"?

E: wait are you seriously linking your own twitter posts to the thread? jfc

No it’s just easier for me to post pictures from my phone.

Do I need to pull up the linoleum to put down tile? I have no idea how long that linoleum might have been down there.

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Real hurthling!
Sep 11, 2001




Real hurthling! posted:


What is this outer threaded part of my fixture called? I want to get some cool like dish shaped things to screw on there at the bottom of the led tube bulbs i put in to make them look candle-like and reflect more light up. I just dont know what term i'm shopping for.

Bumping my post cause it killed the last page.
Mea culpa

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Real hurthling! posted:


What is this outer threaded part of my fixture called? I want to get some cool like dish shaped things to screw on there at the bottom of the led tube bulbs i put in to make them look candle-like and reflect more light up. I just dont know what term i'm shopping for.

That's an E26 threaded socket. The threads are different on different ones I've seen and usually come with a ring that threads on. Your cool glass shade or whatever goes on and is then held in place with the ring/nut rather than threading directly onto the socket base.

E: that thing right under the brackets you drew onto your pic is probably the ring that you can unscrew off that socket.

FizFashizzle posted:

No it’s just easier for me to post pictures from my phone.

Do I need to pull up the linoleum to put down tile? I have no idea how long that linoleum might have been down there.

No one knows what's under there, even you. Do you want to do the job right or are you half assing this for a flip in a couple of years?

space uncle
Sep 17, 2006

"I don’t care if Biden beats Trump. I’m not offloading responsibility. If enough people feel similar to me, such as the large population of Muslim people in Dearborn, Michigan. Then he won’t"


Real hurthling! posted:

Bumping my post cause it killed the last page.
Mea culpa

https://www.amazon.com/4-Pack-Quaray-Lampshade-Socket-Collar/dp/B08Z3J5LN8

Socket collar? Could try threaded socket collar ring. Isn’t it just a flimsy little plastic thread? Might be spooky to screw anything big or glass on there.

Real hurthling!
Sep 11, 2001




Threaded Socket Cup!

I found them at grand brass finally.

The thread is built into the cup so theres no ugly plastic collar ring needed

Real hurthling! fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Apr 15, 2023

FizFashizzle
Mar 30, 2005







Motronic posted:

No one knows what's under there, even you. Do you want to do the job right or are you half assing this for a flip in a couple of years?

Sorry, I wasn’t being clear with my question.

I’m redoing a small downstairs bathroom. This includes replacing the vanity, toilet, and tile. And I don’t have any plans to flip this place. Part of this is because I want to learn how to do it, but the other part is the tile was just hideous.

Underneath the lovely tile was something else that I initially thought was a different tile but I guess it’s linoleum.

I was asking if I could put new tile over that god knows how old linoleum, but it’s irrelevant because it’s not even over the entire floor. So now I’m just scraping up congealed linoleum on top of this lovely tile. Hurray.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
If you have a sawzall, you can get scraping blades for them that might help things go faster.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



FizFashizzle posted:

No it’s just easier for me to post pictures from my phone.

Do I need to pull up the linoleum to put down tile? I have no idea how long that linoleum might have been down there.

I installed glass mosaic on backer board screwed down directly onto vinyl sheet goods. Its been fine after 14-years.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

IMO peel off the linoleum to find out what's under that, particularly in a bathroom, unless you've already inspected the subfloor from underneath. You'll never have another chance to find out if there's a rotten spot around the toilet or bathtub that needs to be cut out and replaced, until it's too late and it's turned into a soft spot.

Bloody Mayhem
Jan 25, 2007

Victimology is all over the place!

mr.belowaverage posted:

Try the weirdest electronic store where the graybeard HAM radio guys are, or any weird surplus store.

If all they sell is Chinese blenders and off-lease Dells, you’re in the wrong place

I did! I went to a Repair Cafe in my neighborhood and the old guys there told me to go a weird electronics store I had never heard about, just next to a Chinese market and massage parlor.

One of the employees found me spade connectors without the rubber sheath and told me they should be fine for an oven. Even gave me a small length of wire so I could practice crimping them.

I ended up cutting the fried part of my wire and crimping in the new connector. I think my crimp/strip tool isn’t the best, but it did the job. I just installed the new element and tested it. It turned on fine, got red hot, and the “you just reached set temperature” indicator turned on!

Thanks y’all, this was my first DYI and I’m proud :kimchi:

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Awesome! Good job by you.

May be your first, but far from your last.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Excellent! Always love hearing about a goon diy/automotive repair success story!

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

FizFashizzle posted:

Sorry, I wasn’t being clear with my question.

I’m redoing a small downstairs bathroom. This includes replacing the vanity, toilet, and tile. And I don’t have any plans to flip this place. Part of this is because I want to learn how to do it, but the other part is the tile was just hideous.

Underneath the lovely tile was something else that I initially thought was a different tile but I guess it’s linoleum.

I was asking if I could put new tile over that god knows how old linoleum, but it’s irrelevant because it’s not even over the entire floor. So now I’m just scraping up congealed linoleum on top of this lovely tile. Hurray.

The only thing that's worth noting is that old linoleum sometimes has asbestos in it as well.

Real hurthling!
Sep 11, 2001




Danhenge posted:

The only thing that's worth noting is that old linoleum sometimes has asbestos in it as well.

Its not gonna get airborn from inside the vinyl. The only issue is if the dump looks at it and is like no way and it costs a billion dollars to throw out

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

Real hurthling! posted:

Its not gonna get airborn from inside the vinyl. The only issue is if the dump looks at it and is like no way and it costs a billion dollars to throw out

It can also be in the backing or adhesive.

SalTheBard
Jan 26, 2005

I forgot to post my food for USPOL Thanksgiving but that's okay too!

Fallen Rib
Hello DIY, I'm here today to request your help. I'm going to attempt to install a new light on the back of my house.

The light has this backplate you screw onto the house



When I mount this on the house is there anything I need to be aware of? Is it ok to just screw this on the siding?

An added wrinkle is that the old backlight is electrical and the new one is solar. Here is the wiring harness of the old light.



What should I do with the old wiring as I don't need it anymore but also don't want it to catch on fire later.

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

I’ll let someone else handle the conversation about having a proper box and waterproofing, but why exactly a solar replacement?

I find them only useful when wiring isn’t possible.

SalTheBard
Jan 26, 2005

I forgot to post my food for USPOL Thanksgiving but that's okay too!

Fallen Rib

The Dave posted:

I’ll let someone else handle the conversation about having a proper box and waterproofing, but why exactly a solar replacement?

I find them only useful when wiring isn’t possible.

It was a Christmas gift :-/

yippee cahier
Mar 28, 2005

I’m in Canada. Where’s a good place for curtain hardware? I’d like some wood brackets, but it appears there’s only two styles sold anywhere and they’re really expensive.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

SalTheBard posted:

Hello DIY, I'm here today to request your help. I'm going to attempt to install a new light on the back of my house.

The light has this backplate you screw onto the house



When I mount this on the house is there anything I need to be aware of? Is it ok to just screw this on the siding?

An added wrinkle is that the old backlight is electrical and the new one is solar. Here is the wiring harness of the old light.



What should I do with the old wiring as I don't need it anymore but also don't want it to catch on fire later.

Hie thee to the wiring thread

Raenir Salazar
Nov 5, 2010

College Slice
I have a room where I keep my pet ants, and while I want them to have access to sunlight I feel like the light from the sun is heating up their enclosure more than it would outdoors (because they'd be underground, inside a tree, etc).

Is there a way to mitigate the amount of heat transferred via the light through the window without overly dimming the room? I kinda have the problem where for some ants their cicadic rhythm is off so I think its best if there's less heat but still sunlight.

Are there like, anti-glare curtains or something that goes on the window?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Raenir Salazar posted:

I have a room where I keep my pet ants, and while I want them to have access to sunlight I feel like the light from the sun is heating up their enclosure more than it would outdoors (because they'd be underground, inside a tree, etc).

Is there a way to mitigate the amount of heat transferred via the light through the window without overly dimming the room? I kinda have the problem where for some ants their cicadic rhythm is off so I think its best if there's less heat but still sunlight.

Are there like, anti-glare curtains or something that goes on the window?

There are window films that will known down the heat transmitted by like 70%+ without really effecting the amount of light coming in. They're not cheap. You're probably looking for something made by 3M.

Raenir Salazar
Nov 5, 2010

College Slice

Motronic posted:

There are window films that will known down the heat transmitted by like 70%+ without really effecting the amount of light coming in. They're not cheap. You're probably looking for something made by 3M.

Something like this? https://www.homedepot.ca/product/gila-heat-control-window-film-platinum-3-ft-x-6-5-ft-/1000702560

25$ doesn't seem like a bad price for 1 window, although if it helps reduce my energy bill as well maybe I might do it for every window?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Raenir Salazar posted:

Something like this? https://www.homedepot.ca/product/gila-heat-control-window-film-platinum-3-ft-x-6-5-ft-/1000702560

25$ doesn't seem like a bad price for 1 window, although if it helps reduce my energy bill as well maybe I might do it for every window?

That's way less expensive than I remember. But yeah, that's the kind of thing I was talking about.

CzarChasm
Mar 14, 2009

I don't like it when you're watching me eat.
Along similar lines I've seen mentions of a product that is a kind of reflective privacy film for home windows. But how does it work at night? If it's like a two way mirror, and the lights are on inside the house, doesn't that mean that the reflective properties won't work?

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


kid sinister posted:

Just bend it. That copper is soft. Just make a long bend. If you make a turn too tight, it might bend and kink. I'm which case, cut out the kink and use a union.

What's the shut off valve look like? If it's a saddle valve, you should replace it. They always leak. There's one plumbing product from Sioux Chief called Add-A-Line that is especially for ice makers and humidifiers. Basically, you cut out one inch of your 1/2" copper pipe, slide on the compression nuts and ferrules, then center the valve over the cut and tighten the nuts. Try to do it where you'll be able to bend the pipe just enough to slide the tee onto your pipe. You may need to temporarily remove a pipe clamp to do it.

Keep enough slack behind your fridge so that there's enough length to pull out your fridge so you'll be able to reach the supply line. The real trick is laying the supply line so that it will fold up hidden behind the fridge once you push it into position.

Sorry I didn't reply sooner. I haven't had a chance to get under the crawl space to check what the valve looks like. A saddle valve seems likely but I also have a dishwasher water line that is all this same flexible copper and it is attached to a proper multi-turn valve so there is a chance the refrigerator water valve in the crawl space isn't complete garbage but for the time being it's just getting added to the list of projects. That add-a-line looks potentially more manageable but maybe learning to sweat copper isn't a bad idea.

And that brings me back to that dishwasher water line. I need to pull the old dishwasher out but when I went to turn off the water the valve started spraying. I got a new quarter turn valve but the old one looks extremely corroded and I'm having trouble getting enough leverage to break it free. Should I bother soaking it in something (what?) or should I saw it off? The valve freelyish spins on the pipe which maybe means something penetrating will work to loosen it but I'm not sure if that matters. I'm guessing I should try and saw it at the valve rather than using a cutter since I'll lose some extra pipe and we're getting close to the wall? I honestly might just be able to put in a new stem or washer but completely replacing the valve seems miles better. Advice is appreciated.



edit got some pb blaster to try and loosen the nut on the valve and what looks like the smallest pipe cutter from lowes plus a reamer. hacksaw seemed like it would save me around 1/4" of pipe if it comes to that so I got a tiny Kobalt cutter if soaking in pb blaster doesn't free the nut.

pb blaster didn't work so I just cut it off. no leak from the new valve so far!

Teabag Dome Scandal fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Apr 17, 2023

Unkempt
May 24, 2003

...perfect spiral, scientists are still figuring it out...
I've got a leaky sink!



That brown stuff trickling sown on the right is coming from where the sink meets the wall, like so:



Now I could just stuff up that hole with caulk but I'm guessing that would lead to bigger trouble down the line. But, I really don't want to start pulling the sink off the wall because I'd probably gently caress that up big time. Any other options? I could probably get the tap apart, could it be coming from a washer or something loose in there?

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Unkempt posted:

I've got a leaky sink!



That brown stuff trickling sown on the right is coming from where the sink meets the wall, like so:



Now I could just stuff up that hole with caulk but I'm guessing that would lead to bigger trouble down the line. But, I really don't want to start pulling the sink off the wall because I'd probably gently caress that up big time. Any other options? I could probably get the tap apart, could it be coming from a washer or something loose in there?

Before you do anything invasive, what does the caulk look like where the top of the sink meets the wall?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

Sorry I didn't reply sooner. I haven't had a chance to get under the crawl space to check what the valve looks like. A saddle valve seems likely but I also have a dishwasher water line that is all this same flexible copper

Look closer. Dishwasher lines are 3/8", while icemakers use 1/4" line.

Good luck spelunking under your house! At least it's the time of year for it.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



devicenull posted:

Before you do anything invasive, what does the caulk look like where the top of the sink meets the wall?

Seconding.

Unkempt
May 24, 2003

...perfect spiral, scientists are still figuring it out...

devicenull posted:

Before you do anything invasive, what does the caulk look like where the top of the sink meets the wall?

Top looks fine, although I've just noticed that the side is weirdly not grouted. This stuff is all pretty new, less than 2 years old.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Throw a bead on each side, wipe down the wall. Should solve it.

Water’s rolling back inwards down there, and hitting the lag bolts/washers to produce the rust. That weird inset at the wall acts as a proper gutter.

Unkempt
May 24, 2003

...perfect spiral, scientists are still figuring it out...
Huh, that sounds almost too easy. I'll give that a go, thanks.

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
Is it normal for an oven to put a bunch of hot air out from the back of the stovetop when it's on?

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

NotNut posted:

Is it normal for an oven to put a bunch of hot air out from the back of the stovetop when it's on?

Yep, there's always a vent somewhere... sometimes it's near a burner, sometimes it's below the control panel.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



NotNut posted:

Is it normal for an oven to put a bunch of hot air out from the back of the stovetop when it's on?

Ja, I use the back 40 to soften butter for my holiday baking

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Yes. Fun fact, if there are mice in your house, they love living in oven insulation and that is their highway

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
I've got two issues with my vinyl siding.

First I see a crack in one section. About 6" long. Is there a patch that could be effective? Or would I need to replace the section.

The other problem is I can see the siding has come loose in some areas. Is there a way to reconnect the pieces without having to remove the entire course? This home was clearly wracked at some point so nothing is square, I'm assuming it popped out then. Hopefully that doesn't make reconnecting impossible.

Phanatic
Mar 13, 2007

Please don't forget that I am an extremely racist idiot who also has terrible opinions about the Culture series.
Replaced my shutters recently and they're slightly smaller than the old shutters, which wouldn't be a problem except that whoever hung the old shutters decided to align and level them by painting a white outline on the brick wall.

So what's a good way to get a stripe of paint off of brick without damaging the masonry? Pressure-washing is right out, and I figure heat and acid are also bad ideas.

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CzarChasm
Mar 14, 2009

I don't like it when you're watching me eat.

Phanatic posted:

Replaced my shutters recently and they're slightly smaller than the old shutters, which wouldn't be a problem except that whoever hung the old shutters decided to align and level them by painting a white outline on the brick wall.

So what's a good way to get a stripe of paint off of brick without damaging the masonry? Pressure-washing is right out, and I figure heat and acid are also bad ideas.

Citrus based paint remover and a stiff brush?
https://www.amazon.com/Safe-Easy-Va...Y2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1

Should be safe for most surfaces, but maybe do a spot test to make sure it won't discolor the masonry.

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