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Ok yeah. The second link for sure. They have to step out radially then helix up one thread. The single flute has to work it's way up the entire depth of the hole. Single flutes one upside is it's more rigid so if the threads have to be super deep you'll need it. I guess you can also use it as a backside chamfer tool too.
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Apr 16, 2023 15:02
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Made a better splash cover for my lathe when using flood coolant, and I made it so the coolant naturally runs off and it doesn't steal (much) capacity from the lathe. Sheet metal and mig welding.  Video showing the principle https://youtu.be/d8txQ7KTbqE Took a parting cut with flood coolant on stainless and I can say I have never achieved this good a result before on any material. More than the look, it feels so smooth, can't feel the surface imperfections. https://youtu.be/Yp2-JkG-lis​ Overall it works really well after some test cuts with flood coolant, only a few drops of coolant on the ways, took a few seconds to clean vs. half an hour last time.
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Apr 16, 2023 15:32
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just remember: "a grinder and paint make me the welder i ain't."  looks fine, nice job
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Apr 16, 2023 17:54
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Is coolant not oil? I always assumed it was oil, but that looks really thin. If not oil, then why not oil?
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Apr 16, 2023 18:16
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No most coolant is a mix of water and a water soluble oil. The oil part is sold as a concentrate. This is mixed 1:25 with water in the case of the brand I got. The water provides coolant, while the oil provides lubrication and other properties.
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Apr 16, 2023 18:37
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depends what you're doing and how deep into process optimization you get, the six spindle lathe I used to run that was set up for the same part 24/7 for years ran straight oil through-tool and most of our precision grinding processes are straight oil, more general purpose job shop stuff yeah it's almost always emulsion. Which is an absolute nightmare to handle in wastewater treatment btw we try to keep it from getting into the system at all through administrative controls but every so often someone empties a mop bucket in the wrong pit and suddenly I'm having to burn thousands of pounds of acid dropping my wastewater stream down to <2 pH to get those oil droplets to separate out
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Apr 16, 2023 19:02
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I remember discussing straight oil vs. soluble oil and one thing I heard re: straight oil where it was ran on open machines was that everything in the shop eventually got a layer of oil deposited on it. I imagined dealing with that and thought dealing with soluble oil coolant was better. It also cools much better than straight oil from all I've read about it. Also it's way way cheaper to set up, 30€ for a 5 liter jug which will make 125 liters of coolant. I needed 15 liters to fill my tank once. IIRC I was looking at hundreds worth of oil to fill the tank? Been a while but it was a lot more expensive, even if lasts indefinitely. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Apr 16, 2023 |
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Apr 16, 2023 19:18
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oh it absolutely does not last indefinitely, we were going through about 150 gallons a week to top up 6 machines just from what got dragged out on the parts
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Apr 16, 2023 20:19
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Straight oil in a flood coolant system is also a big fire hazard, there are some terrifying youtube videos of what can happen when a machine goes up. The machine tool builder I used to work for wouldn't sell a machine without a fire suppression system if the customer wanted to run straight oil. I hope to never see it in person.A Proper Uppercut posted:Yea, these vs. these. Honda's correct re: cycle time, but the other consideration with the single-flute cutters is that you can do multiple thread pitches with a single tool, within limits. Comes down to whether you value productivity or flexibility more.
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Apr 16, 2023 22:34
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honda whisperer posted:Ok yeah. The second link for sure. They have to step out radially then helix up one thread. The single flute has to work it's way up the entire depth of the hole. The other big plus of the single flute is that you can make any pitch with it.
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Apr 17, 2023 02:46
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shame on an IGA posted:oh it absolutely does not last indefinitely, we were going through about 150 gallons a week to top up 6 machines just from what got dragged out on the parts Ah I heard from a guy in California who does renovations on classic car engines and is a deckel fan (runs a shop with mostly deckels) that he'd runs straight oil in his machines and didn't have to top it up often. He didn't do any production runs, just one offs that were very individual, like reboring old engine blocks from the 1930s or whatnot. Anyway I have been having problems with my mig welder feeding .6mm wire, it came with .8mm wire and it feeds that OK. I took out the rollers to look closely at them. I consulted a manual that claims the rollers are color coded, .6/.8mm rolls are supposed to be white. This is supposedly a roll for 1/1.2mm wire. No wonder it feeds like crap. I am impressed it even feeds .8mm wire. I bought the machine used like this, it was complete with a 15kg spool of .8mm wire. Conversion table 0.6mm = 0.024" 0.8mm = 0.031" 1.0mm = 0.039" 1.2mm = 0.047" What my feed rolls look like: 
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Apr 17, 2023 06:46
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Well I ordered one of the single profile ones to try thread milling, they are a bit cheaper and we don't give a poo poo about cycle times here, we're only making our own tooling. We'll see how it goes!
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Apr 18, 2023 14:27
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Can you even buy rivnuts/nutserts at retail? I bought a bag of 100 online and promptly lost it Harbor Freight and Lowes both sell the tool which comes with a handful of starter pack inserts but I don't want to buy an entire second tool I tried explaining this thing to the guy at ace hardware and he just looked at me like I was a space alien Edit: Grainger was about to order me some guy next day at... Actually competitive prices, that was a pleasant surprise Hadlock fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Apr 18, 2023 |
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Apr 18, 2023 20:15
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I get mine from McMaster
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Apr 18, 2023 22:46
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Well I ordered one of the single profile ones to try thread milling, they are a bit cheaper and we don't give a poo poo about cycle times here, we're only making our own tooling. We'll see how it goes! Let us know how it goes. I get all my feeds and speeds by finding the closest Harvey threadmill and tossing that into machining advisor.
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Apr 19, 2023 00:28
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Hadlock posted:
Seconding McMaster unless you were being serious there, first time for everything.
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Apr 19, 2023 02:27
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Welp, their computer service thing said tomorrow by noon, sounding like either a) it's not coming tomorrow or b) getting a potato. Sounds like I just paid $12 for a learning experience. The plan was to have the body bolt to the chassis as one piece using nutserts, I guess if it comes down to push and shove I'll spot weld it together now and do it the right way after the movers deliver it
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Apr 19, 2023 02:34
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Hadlock posted:Welp, their computer service thing said tomorrow by noon, sounding like either a) it's not coming tomorrow or b) getting a potato. Sounds like I just paid $12 for a learning experience.
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Apr 19, 2023 03:36
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McMaster Carr is good when you definitely want your stuff the next day.
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Apr 19, 2023 03:58
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I ordered an in stock item from grainger on jan 11, was repeatedly told over the phone that they had no record of the order being placed in feb and march, and got it yesterday. in the meantime I ordered three of the same from office depot for a fraction of the price and had them the next day, and was also pleasantly surprised to discover the office depot SKU was for a 12-pack
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Apr 19, 2023 04:07
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I went into their "retail" cave (carved out of their giant regional warehouse) and ordered it for pickup the next day, and it's not super, super exotic, fingers crossed. My guess is that it's coming on the morning truck from Charlotte or Raleigh But yeah the guy was like "how will I let you know when it arrives?" And I was "well it'll be here tomorrow" and I guess I missed the southern nuisance of "uhhh, yeah" so I guess we'll find out Strong agree on McMaster Carr if you absolutely positively need it tomorrow by 10am but not in the budget this week unfortunately
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Apr 19, 2023 05:17
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We've been getting more stuff lately from Motion Industries, they operate more like a parts store than a centralized warehouse. Which can be great when you need a weird belt and they move it from one location to the next in their own truck and you just pick it up. They've got a great interchange for bearings too, which is awesome when you need to order a 1950's era bearing with some 8 digit code and they are like, yup, that's a Fafnir equivalent.
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Apr 19, 2023 12:26
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I have a fantastic local bearing supply house that’s been in the same building since like 1935 and they’ve never thrown anything away. They’ve been great with some weird stuff and sometimes they’re like ‘uh well it says our cost on that was $1.50 in 1963 so, uh, I guess that’ll be 3 dollars please’
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Apr 19, 2023 13:37
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I'll throw out misumi automation as well. Specifically I find their bearing finder tool to be great. They are metric only, so you'll have no luck with replacements for old equipment. But it's the first place I look when I'm designing something. They are also my go-to for tslot. Acceptable price, lots of sizes available, and amazing customization options. The same goes for most linear motion parts (ball and lead screws, linear rails, linear bearings, etc). General hardware is a bit odd. Sometimes their prices are amazing, other times dismal, not really sure what's going on there. Selection is solid, as long as you work in metric.
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Apr 19, 2023 14:12
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honda whisperer posted:Let us know how it goes. I get all my feeds and speeds by finding the closest Harvey threadmill and tossing that into machining advisor. Yea I actually bought a Harvey threadmill, they make good stuff.
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Apr 19, 2023 14:57
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The rivnuts arrived on time Downside is they're... Super tall looking? Like the threads are super deep set, like these are designed for thick wall steel or something. I'll have to take a closer look tonight Edit yeah these are technically compatible but need a much larger diameter drill, the ones I was using previously went in with a 7/16" bit, these need at least two sizes larger  Old is installed up front, old for scale. Item description from Grainger doesn't specify anything beyond the internal size and thread pitch Hadlock fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Apr 19, 2023 |
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Apr 19, 2023 21:43
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Yea I actually bought a Harvey threadmill, they make good stuff. Yeah they do. They're definitely my first stop when parts start getting weird. I forget what brand our local supplier carries for thread mills but they're 15 minutes away vs next day at best.
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Apr 20, 2023 01:42
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On polishing 316L Black Brown White Green Blue  Grey Orange Blue White  Black Brown Green White Red Confirm/Deny:
The only thing they all seem to agree on is "use white." Is there a definitive sequence? Related question: What is the best way to get sandpaper up inside a 1/4" pipe? There's these: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/b...t/length~5-1-2/ but at $10 apiece there has to be a more cost-effective solution. Take a dowel and cut a lengthwise notch at the end of it and use that to wrap sandpaper around? According to https://usaindustries.com/piping-isolation-testing-products/pipe-schedule-chart/ schedule 40 1/4" pipe has an inside diameter of 0.364". 9mm is 0.354" which should technically fit inside, but 8mm (0.315") should allow clearance for sandpaper around the dowel. Is that a stupid conclusion? In case you are interested this is for a maple syrup reverse osmosis machine. Rough surfaces have increased surface area (relative to smooth surfaces) for bacteria to colonize and grow on. Therefore I want the inside of my pipes mirror shiny. (The way to clean this thing is to alternately run sodium hydroxide and citric acid through it. No disassembly for scrubbing). But when I started this project I didn't know the difference between "regular" and "seamless" pipe except that one was cheaper. I'm paying for it now. What would you do? Bore brush? Sandpaper on a stick? Rip out all the old pipe and replace it with seamless?
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Apr 24, 2023 20:45
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DreadLlama posted:On polishing 316L doesn't sound much different from brewing, where pipes have to be sanitized. nobody is sanding the inside of their pipes, just run some starsan through it or something
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Apr 24, 2023 21:45
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Are you making it as a DIY project or is this a professional machine? You're going to have to clean your pipes regardless of how mirror shiny you make them. You will have bacterial buildup. Dance Officer fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Apr 25, 2023 |
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Apr 25, 2023 00:03
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Anyone do much brazing with high-silver alloys? I do work with HVAC/R equipment which involves a ton of brazing, a lot of which uses 56% silver alloy. Usually for fluxing, I just spread on some white flux (if it's a quick job, usually copper-to-copper tubing) or black flux (if it's not gonna be quick, usually copper tubing to stainless or brass). On the advice of a contractor, we got some flux-coated rods in this alloy. Since these jobs involve significant preheating, I'm not sure how I'd use them. How would you compare using fluxed rod to using bare rod on a fluxed component?
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Apr 25, 2023 01:31
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Mini project, took half an hour tonight. I turned and milled this bit adapter so it will fit my stanley yankee screwdriver, which I otherwise only have a flat head bit for. It's real nifty IMO, very handy when working on electronics and similar. Four completed plungers too for the very slow pressure washer rebuild (still not sure this will work). Ready for assembly with threaded rod and loctite. The holes on the top are for the tool to tighten the threads with, it's from an ISCAR parting tool. I bought the drat parting tool blade but the loving inserts are so expensive I haven't bought any yet. The one with the thru hole is a part I made before I did a redesign and I tried to save doing a new one. Might end up regretting that if it leaks through the threads. 
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Apr 29, 2023 19:15
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I'm struggling to find a mate for this screw. It is a "slotted raised countersunk" steel machine screw from a tool (a folding drawknife) made approximately the mid 1890s (pat. 1891) in Boston by JS Cantello. I'm restoring an old tool and I'm well aware that perfect is often unattainable or stupid expensive, so closest match is acceptable... the previous owner just jammed a too-long wrong screw in to replace the lost or broken one and backed up with a square nut which is kinda cool but I'd rather have the right screw if I can find it. Referencing  L= about 21/32", but the tip is slightly rounded and it's tough to get lined up right and the threaded hole is open so it can be a bit longer or shorter  dk (head diameter) 3/8"  d 1/4"  b 1/4"? Actually, measuring with a micrometer, it's .211, which is close enough to .216 to call this a 12#-24!  Thread pitch... 6 threads, so 24, probably. The unthreaded portion of the shank is acting as an axle so while a fully threaded screw would "work", the threads will be damaged over time in that area so that's not the right way to go. I haven't found anything like this on McMaster or Grainger, although it's hard to look. e. the angle as in the first diagram seems about right, hard to measure but 80 or 82 degrees ish is very close or spot on. e2. looks like "oval head" is the more common description, which is getting me close except for the part about it only being half threaded up the shank. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Apr 30, 2023 |
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Apr 30, 2023 01:47
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Dude, thread pitch standardization didn't even exist until the 1940s
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Apr 30, 2023 03:03
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You're unlikely to be able to find that exact screw. Maybe if you dig deep enough, but I would probably just be modifying something that's close enough. If you're pretty sure that it's #12-24, you can look for an oval head screw with the appropriate unthreaded length and cut the threaded portion to the proper length. A hacksaw and a small file will do it. A flat head screw should have approximately the same countersink angle, so if you're okay with it being flat instead of slightly domed, that is also an option. If the diameter of the unthreaded portion on the screws you can find is not correct for the "axle," then you need someone with a lathe to make the screw for you. Since it's a slot drive screw, it's a pretty simple job that wouldn't take a good machinist more than 10 minutes or so.
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Apr 30, 2023 04:21
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Sagebrush posted:Since it's a slot drive screw, it's a pretty simple job that wouldn't take a good machinist more than 10 minutes or so. I could probably do it poorly in under three hours
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Apr 30, 2023 04:24
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ante posted:Dude, thread pitch standardization didn't even exist until the 1940s While a uniform, US-wide, government-imposed standard was indeed created in 1948, it looks like many common standards on which that was based had been around in the UK, Canada, and US since the mid-1800s... like, I don't know the thread angle here but it could I guess be a 55 degree Whitworth thread? Probably isn't. That said, it does look like I might have to get a machinist to duplicate this screw if I really want it. I can't find #12-24 oval heads with partial threads at all. I do know a guy, but he and his wife had a baby a year ago and I'm not sure if he'd want to spend time hand machining a screw for me. Maybe if I agree to hold the baby while he does it. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Apr 30, 2023 |
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Apr 30, 2023 04:41
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Any time I have a tool/whatever with a hosed up screw with a goofy nonstandard/hard-to-find thread, I just drill and tap it to the next standard size up. I wasted a ton of time last year trying to find the right size threaded rod for a hand plane, then realized it doesn't loving matter and I could just retap it to M5 and be done with it.
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Apr 30, 2023 05:37
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Leperflesh posted:While a uniform, US-wide, government-imposed standard was indeed created in 1948, it looks like many common standards on which that was based had been around in the UK, Canada, and US since the mid-1800s... like, I don't know the thread angle here but it could I guess be a 55 degree Whitworth thread? Probably isn't. That said, it does look like I might have to get a machinist to duplicate this screw if I really want it. I can't find #12-24 oval heads with partial threads at all. Whitworth was the first real standard yeah. Older threads are likely to be Whitworth. I still have an 1-1/2 x 8 TPI whitworth thread on my lathes thread spindle. Having a lathe means I can single point just about any thread I need, but I rarely do it because it's a PITA.
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Apr 30, 2023 08:20
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HolHorsejob posted:Any time I have a tool/whatever with a hosed up screw with a goofy nonstandard/hard-to-find thread, I just drill and tap it to the next standard size up. Old Stanleys (for one) are a bother like that. Stanley does (or at least did back in 2020/21 when I bought it) sell a kit with both old style #12-24 and modern #12-20 screws and threaded rods. But yeah, tapping it something modern is a very sensible approach I wish I'd though of at the time.
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Apr 30, 2023 14:32
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