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Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
You can also break tufts apart to make small tufts or varying sizes to make stuff look more random and natural instead of just having a space marine with a random circular patch of grass on their base

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Marx Headroom
May 10, 2007

AT LAST! A show with nonono commercials!
Fallen Rib

Geisladisk posted:

Short version - black is probably fine to shade, but white to highlight will get you a weird kinda minty color. Mix in yellow to highlight instead.

Oh christ, I was wondering why my mint green highlights looked kinda weird.

Guess I'll have to go over them again :shepface:

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Spanish Manlove posted:

You can also break tufts apart to make small tufts or varying sizes to make stuff look more random and natural instead of just having a space marine with a random circular patch of grass on their base

The ones I got from Gamers Grass come in a bunch of sizes and weird shapes.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Z the IVth posted:

I wish someone would make mushroom tufts. Still remember the days where the mark of a true tryhard competition Painter was to have some random toadstools on the display base.

You can get a bunch of little resin ones from various places but yeah it'd be nice to have just fully coloured ones you could slap down.

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."


Intercessors done, for now at least. I'd like to work on the powersword technique and redo it, probably have another pass at the eyes with a more yellow-orange contrast paint (this was a mix of Imperial Fist and Flesh Tearer, I think)

Bunch of lessons learned, unlike the more difficult Eradicator and Aggressor kits I probably didn't need to prime the backpacks separate. But it was difficult to fit the arms right after doing them separately, which I think it's absolutely necessary. I primed the bodies with the left arms in place, as they don't cover the body, maybe the problem is just putting the pauldrons on the right ones before priming, perhaps just blutaccing them on for that then gluing after fixing the arm to body will work?

Pretty happy overall though, much smoother with less lost details. My Pallid Wych Flesh seems very thick though, should I replace it? Dilute it in the pot? I should probably gather some stones to drop in them for agitation, but Screaming Skull seems much more free flowing.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

I started out not wanting to use tufts because I was putting all my dudes on a dead, rusty, desert wasteland kind of base. The more I do though, the more I find myself saying "maybe I should get some tufts" because even in a dead desolate Mars-like wasteland life find a way, right?

But then I'd have to go back and add tufts to over 50 models...

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

I'd probably rather go back and add tufts to 50 models than like static grass or more rock, but they're your bases and it's your time and effort, so you should follow your heart

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

AndyElusive posted:

I started out not wanting to use tufts because I was putting all my dudes on a dead, rusty, desert wasteland kind of base. The more I do though, the more I find myself saying "maybe I should get some tufts" because even in a dead desolate Mars-like wasteland life find a way, right?

But then I'd have to go back and add tufts to over 50 models...

Use wasteland dead tufts :v:

I also base all my guys on generic blasted wastelands but I always add tufts if just to break the monotony up a bit.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
Another thumbs up for "chop up your tufts for variation". And you don't really need to worry about what color your tufts are, because you can put them on the base before you prime, and you can paint them whatever color you want. Tufts are good.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Just like some opinions before I figure out how to edge highlight these (leaning towards just a gentle, streaky drybrush tbh) but!



The middle Warrior has just had a pin wash done. The ones on the side had an overall oil wash done. I really like the brightness of the colours on the middle one but because I haven't given it the wash the dots are less blended together and I'm not sure if that looks better or worse, I've been staring at dots too long.

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

The outer ones look more "realistic", but the center one looks way more fun and the brightness really brings out the toxic creature look you're going for

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007



Rat Wizard!

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS

Silhouette posted:

The outer ones look more "realistic", but the center one looks way more fun and the brightness really brings out the toxic creature look you're going for

What I was inspired by:



What everyone else sees:

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

I was thinking more like a poison tree frog or some kind of venomous gecko, but yeah

Gray Ghost
Jan 1, 2003

When crime haunts the night, a silent crusader carries the torch of justice.
Is there a consensus on what full paint lines are worth the cost? My fiancee and I are up to our ears in paints and we might have to clean house to make space in our apartment. All told we have:

• Vallejo Xpress Paint Set
• Scale75 full ScaleColor set (including metallics, FX, and Inktensity sets)
• 30 P3 paints
• ProAcryl Set 1, Expansion 1
• Two Thin Coats Wave 1 (with Wave 2 on the way)

We purged our GW paints because of the pots always spilling and Vallejo Game Color was just too satin/glossy for us. Are there any holes in our collection or any must-haves? We really enjoy the Two Thin Coats and the ScaleColor sets for the matte finish.

Edit: Of what I’ve listed, I’m thinking of parting with P3 because pots are the worst.

Gray Ghost fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Apr 18, 2023

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."
Think I've made a breakthrough on using Citadel Contrast purple on maybe pauldrons, send the thing to do is just push it around with the tip of the brush rather than full strokes. Without medium I got it even over a Silver base in two coats. Need to try it over a non metallic base but I was doing some experiments.

Speaking of, does anyone have thoughts on how to do a glossy, reflective black armour? I've been testing Black Templar and Leviadon Blue over a silver base which might have potential but maybe there's another route?

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
So the thing is at the scale you're painting at it's very difficult to utilize natural reflectiveness so you gotta fake it. You basically have to use NMM techniques to give the illusion of super glossy armour because if you just paint black and then put a gloss varnish on top it'll reflect your actual light sources which are Much Bigger than the model so you just get a shiny ball of a head from the lamp bouncing off it, for example.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyXzfVO2Kdw

Here's an example of a very "shiny looking" black armour that is actually just matte with very aggressive highlighting to make it look glossy.

khazadum
Dec 1, 2006

I AM NOT A MERRY MAN
haven't painted any dudes since just before new year, got a bit burnt out.

the urge finally struck again, so I cleaned out my hobby hole and knocked out some ebay rescues that have been on the pile for over a year



w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Gray Ghost posted:

Is there a consensus on what full paint lines are worth the cost? My fiancee and I are up to our ears in paints and we might have to clean house to make space in our apartment. All told we have:

• Vallejo Xpress Paint Set
• Scale75 full ScaleColor set (including metallics, FX, and Inktensity sets)
• 30 P3 paints
• ProAcryl Set 1, Expansion 1
• Two Thin Coats Wave 1 (with Wave 2 on the way)

We purged our GW paints because of the pots always spilling and Vallejo Game Color was just too satin/glossy for us. Are there any holes in our collection or any must-haves? We really enjoy the Two Thin Coats and the ScaleColor sets for the matte finish.

Edit: Of what I’ve listed, I’m thinking of parting with P3 because pots are the worst.

I like gamecolor a lot, but if matt is your thing, I've heard amazing things about scale 75. Otherwise, Vallejo mateloc air are the best metallics hands down. Input out of an airbrush

Bohemian Nights
Jul 14, 2006

When I wake up,
I look into the mirror
I can see a clearer, vision
I should start living today
Clapping Larry

Geisladisk posted:



Rat Wizard!

I really like what you did with the crystal on the staff, it looks so clean and obviously crystall-y

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

BizarroAzrael posted:

Think I've made a breakthrough on using Citadel Contrast purple on maybe pauldrons, send the thing to do is just push it around with the tip of the brush rather than full strokes. Without medium I got it even over a Silver base in two coats. Need to try it over a non metallic base but I was doing some experiments.

Speaking of, does anyone have thoughts on how to do a glossy, reflective black armour? I've been testing Black Templar and Leviadon Blue over a silver base which might have potential but maybe there's another route?

If you want candy purple you're better off using Eidolon purple which is a gloss transparent paint (vs contrast which has a Matte finish). Airbrush on for best results.

For a glossy piano black finish us a black of choice then cover it with multiple coats of gloss coat - something like Future Floor Wax/Klear is best for this. You'll need the applications to go on super smooth for optimal effect. Also if you do it right you can rely on ambient light to highlight the object for you. I would suggest adding non-gloss components painted normally to the colour scheme to break it up so it doesn't look like a toy.

Eg - WiP EC terminator. The purple has had a zenithal chrome/silver/black applied but everything else is from the candy/gloss coat. I finished it with an oil wash to mattify and darken the recesses but haven't photographed the final result.

StashAugustine
Mar 24, 2013

Do not trust in hope- it will betray you! Only faith and hatred sustain.



Taking a crack at some NMM, I think I need to blend some light grey where the white is now and then go back to add smaller points of white on top?

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

khazadum posted:

haven't painted any dudes since just before new year, got a bit burnt out.

the urge finally struck again, so I cleaned out my hobby hole and knocked out some ebay rescues that have been on the pile for over a year





They look pretty great, glad you beat the burnout!

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

khazadum posted:

haven't painted any dudes since just before new year, got a bit burnt out.

the urge finally struck again, so I cleaned out my hobby hole and knocked out some ebay rescues that have been on the pile for over a year





I haven't painted in well over a year either until getting the random urge last week and I sprayed a few coats down on a car model kit I bought 3 years ago. I really like what you did with the bases!


Now I want to spray some more poo poo, thinking of dusting off my Death Guard army I never finished (lol who the gently caress am I kidding, no I'm not, I'm looking at what Tyranids are in stock at my LGS)

Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer
Finished up a chaplain for my Flesh Tearers. Really happy with this one, I think it's one of the best I've painted - especially the face.


Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Zuul the Cat posted:

Finished up a chaplain for my Flesh Tearers. Really happy with this one, I think it's one of the best I've painted - especially the face.




Loving the Terminator 2 impression.

Putrid Grin
Sep 16, 2007

I cant get the Liquitex white ink to pass through my airbrush without clogging the poo poo out of it. I tried dilutting it, or vortexing it for ages, but it is still a major pain the the butt.

In unrelated news I finally found a color scheme for my gitz that I am happy with. Does anyone know where I could find 3d print files for small mushrooms? These dudes have a shroom motif, and I would like to include some on their bases, and I dont want to sculpt them from green stuff.

Here is the bugger. Highlights are a bit subdued but its a very quick and easy method, so it will have to do.

_DSC4388 by B. Buttz, on Flickr

_DSC4389 by B. Buttz, on Flickr

BizarroAzrael
Apr 6, 2006

"That must weigh heavily on your soul. Let me purge it for you."

Eej posted:

So the thing is at the scale you're painting at it's very difficult to utilize natural reflectiveness so you gotta fake it. You basically have to use NMM techniques to give the illusion of super glossy armour because if you just paint black and then put a gloss varnish on top it'll reflect your actual light sources which are Much Bigger than the model so you just get a shiny ball of a head from the lamp bouncing off it, for example.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyXzfVO2Kdw

Here's an example of a very "shiny looking" black armour that is actually just matte with very aggressive highlighting to make it look glossy.

Thanks for this, much too much for what I'm looking to do but have some ideas, and might look to get the airbrush out. I either have to set up on my balcony and get antsy about dropping stuff or use it in my kitchen. How would it be using the extractor fan over my stove?

This is why I've been mucking around on old models, still a lot of variance in behaviour across the range, the reds seem to candycoat beautifully, I'm looking forward to doing Thousand Sons with Sigvald Burgundy.

I'm thinking I'll do black on my Terminators and other Deathwing equivalents, so I want to take the effort to make it good and not the highlighted Chaos Black spray I used to do. Perhaps a black base, spray or airbrush white highlights and then Black Templar contrast to all but the raised parts. Maybe grey spray between the black and white to have more of a gradient.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Putrid Grin posted:

I cant get the Liquitex white ink to pass through my airbrush without clogging the poo poo out of it. I tried dilutting it, or vortexing it for ages, but it is still a major pain the the butt.

In unrelated news I finally found a color scheme for my gitz that I am happy with. Does anyone know where I could find 3d print files for small mushrooms? These dudes have a shroom motif, and I would like to include some on their bases, and I dont want to sculpt them from green stuff.

Here is the bugger. Highlights are a bit subdued but its a very quick and easy method, so it will have to do.

_DSC4388 by B. Buttz, on Flickr

_DSC4389 by B. Buttz, on Flickr

The white ink is kinda finicky, it dries very fast and causes dry tip, I have to continually wipe the needle clean or it gets built up with dried white ink. Using some flow improver will help, but I think it's just a limitation of the pigments. It's still better than any white paint I've tried to use.

Your grot looks cool tho.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




My understanding is that white is just a lovely pigment to deal with. It’s super opaque so mixing it with other colors usually just makes a bad highlight color because it becomes too opaque, but it is also grainy so white paint, perversely, has terrible coverage and ends up looking chalky. It’s also why white ink hates airbrushes.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
Not all whites are the same. Titanium Dioxide's benefit is that it's super opaque. It's awful for mixing because of its tinting strength but if you just wanna slap white on something it's great.

If only we can still use Lead White...

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]
Apparently you can buy specific Tinting White paint as part of certain artist lines, and they're good for blending.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



played around with some colors on a Bloodborne mini, turned out ok I guess

HKR
Jan 13, 2006

there is no universe where duke nukem would not be a trans ally



The way I'm dealing with liquitex white is adding vallejo airbrush flow improver to my airbrush cup first, then the ink, followed by a little bit of vallejo airbrush thinner. Then I bubble it for a few seconds before spraying. I haven't had any clogs yet. Spraying through an Iwata Neo with a .3mm needle.

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]

HKR posted:

The way I'm dealing with liquitex white is adding vallejo airbrush flow improver to my airbrush cup first, then the ink, followed by a little bit of vallejo airbrush thinner. Then I bubble it for a few seconds before spraying. I haven't had any clogs yet. Spraying through an Iwata Neo with a .3mm needle.

I ultimately ended up just buying a big lot of plastic shot glasses and using them to mix paint outside of the airbrush cup. Package of 200 (Edit: 200, not 500) for $20 or something; I'll never use 'em all.

Stephenls fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Apr 19, 2023

Devorum
Jul 30, 2005

BizarroAzrael posted:

Thanks for this, much too much for what I'm looking to do but have some ideas, and might look to get the airbrush out. I either have to set up on my balcony and get antsy about dropping stuff or use it in my kitchen. How would it be using the extractor fan over my stove?


Honestly, I just wear a 3M mask with particulate filters and make sure my room isn't sealed shut. I don't have any airflow stuff or fans.

Bored Online
May 25, 2009

We don't need Rome telling us what to do.

Zuul the Cat posted:

Finished up a chaplain for my Flesh Tearers. Really happy with this one, I think it's one of the best I've painted - especially the face.




This whips rear end.

Ravendas
Sep 29, 2001




I painted a Reaper Bones mini from their first kickstarter, back when they had no clue how to get details in it (see the hands here, they're just lumps, as is the gun in her right hand). The front is a bit of a mess, but I like how the Vallejo Xpress paints worked in her hair and her jacket. This is just 'slapchopped' with a single coat of xpress on her jacket and her hair.

Primed dark brown, tan heavy drybrush, skeleton bone light drybrush, then just a single coat of xpress. Way better gradients and shading than I could do with standard paints.

Paranoid Dude
Jul 6, 2014
Aww, sad to see that the painting oath thread is gone... (or at least I can't find it for current year)

How are you guys able to take such clear pictures of your minis? Whenever I try, it ends up a blurry, nasty mess with no definition. I would like to show my friends (and you guys!) some cool stuff I've done since having a renaissance of model painting lately, but I don't know how to!

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Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
https://www.warhammer-community.com/2018/03/06/the-model-photo-how-to-photograph-models-for-display/

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