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Mauser posted:oh yeah no way am I disassembling it. I just want to take it off the wheel so I can get at it with without making a huge mess and I didn't have the little two pronged socket that fits this thing Yours might be different but iirc taking it off the wheel IS disassembling it, it's not like a cassette where it just comes off as a self contained unit, the ring with the two holes is the outer bearing race so the moment you undo it and lift the gears off, 80 tiny ball bearings go everywhere.
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Apr 5, 2023 19:38
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Slavvy posted:Yours might be different but iirc taking it off the wheel IS disassembling it, it's not like a cassette where it just comes off as a self contained unit, the ring with the two holes is the outer bearing race so the moment you undo it and lift the gears off, 80 tiny ball bearings go everywhere.
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Apr 5, 2023 19:40
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ooo ok, that's good to know beforehand
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Apr 5, 2023 19:44
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mine does come off as a unit. the only cleaning I do after taking it off is removing the spring keeping the pawls in place and the pawls themselves to clean out the dirty grease from underneath, regrease the pawls (or more specifically put some grease in the slot where the pawls go), wipe off the splines the freehub body interacts with and reassemble your freehub may vary of course
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Apr 5, 2023 19:50
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Freewheel and freehub are not the same.
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Apr 5, 2023 19:54
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wow did I misread, woops. my bad!
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Apr 5, 2023 19:56
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CopperHound posted:You're doing it wrong. I've only done it once and ages ago so I'm likely remembering wrong
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Apr 5, 2023 20:15
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Found a video of the exact model of freewheel and I see what you're talking about. I am going to try to avoid doing that until it's time to throw this thing out and do the flushing/regreasing with it still on the wheel
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Apr 5, 2023 20:27
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Yeah it sounds like you disassembled it on the bike, instead of unthreading it from the hub. That said, freewheels have always been one of the original spot where there was no standard. They all use different tools and have the potential to be weird and annoying.
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Apr 5, 2023 20:30
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I biked for the first time outdoors since the fall as I don't do winter biking! My knees hurt! A lot!  I brought my bike for a tune up but they said nothing about the bike looks like it needs any tuning. So I guess that's good? All I did was use it on the trainer during the winter. I am thinking of picking up a new helmet, does anyone have the link handy to the website that has the suggested helmets?
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Apr 6, 2023 18:58
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Raenir Salazar posted:I biked for the first time outdoors since the fall as I don't do winter biking! My knees hurt! A lot! I think this has been posted here before: https://www.helmet.beam.vt.edu/bicycle-helmet-ratings.html and I've just gone with good old #10 on that list for $50 Specialized Align II As for my freewheel issue, I followed the advice of not removing the plate or anything and just flushing it out and relubing while it was still attached to the hub and now it actually spins like it's supposed to. No more chain issues anymore because the freewheel isn't resisting spinning!
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Apr 6, 2023 20:42
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The specialized website still has a few limited color/size combinations (metallic blue in XL and a gradient pink one in different sizes) for the Specialized Align II on sale for $28 too. (You can either have it shipped to store for free or leave it in your cart overnight and wait for them to send you a free shipping code) I picked one up in January and I'm pretty happy with it.
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Apr 6, 2023 21:22
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Hi thread, I got a new bike last fall (Giant Escape 2 2022 - https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ca/escape-disc-2), rode it a bit, and it's been sitting in the basement all winter. With snow melting I will be getting back to riding it soon. Embarrassingly, I don't know if it has tubeless or inner tube tires. The stock ones are Giant S-X2, puncture protect, 700x38c, which I can't seem to find on the Giant website. I figured since Giant is such a big brand their tires would be easy to find out about, but so far I haven't had much luck. I am a bike newbie as well so I am still trying to teach myself the basics. Does anyone recognize these? Thanks for any suggestions.
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Apr 11, 2023 20:15
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Monoclinic posted:Hi thread, I got a new bike last fall (Giant Escape 2 2022 - https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ca/escape-disc-2), rode it a bit, and it's been sitting in the basement all winter. With snow melting I will be getting back to riding it soon. Embarrassingly, I don't know if it has tubeless or inner tube tires. The stock ones are Giant S-X2, puncture protect, 700x38c, which I can't seem to find on the Giant website. I figured since Giant is such a big brand their tires would be easy to find out about, but so far I haven't had much luck. I am a bike newbie as well so I am still trying to teach myself the basics. Does anyone recognize these? Thanks for any suggestions. Almost certainly tubes. You can do tubeless with schrader (normal) valves but they look different than what you have there.
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Apr 11, 2023 20:20
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Monoclinic posted:Hi thread, I got a new bike last fall (Giant Escape 2 2022 - https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ca/escape-disc-2), rode it a bit, and it's been sitting in the basement all winter. With snow melting I will be getting back to riding it soon. Embarrassingly, I don't know if it has tubeless or inner tube tires. The stock ones are Giant S-X2, puncture protect, 700x38c, which I can't seem to find on the Giant website. I figured since Giant is such a big brand their tires would be easy to find out about, but so far I haven't had much luck. I am a bike newbie as well so I am still trying to teach myself the basics. Does anyone recognize these? Thanks for any suggestions. Even tubeless tires ship with tubes in them so don't feel bad.
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Apr 11, 2023 20:40
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Isn't the rear derailleur hanger supposed to be a breakaway point? Got a tree branch into the rear, snapped my XT derailleur in half.
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Apr 11, 2023 20:55
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Combat Pretzel posted:Isn't the rear derailleur hanger supposed to be a breakaway point? Got a tree branch into the rear, snapped my XT derailleur in half. I suppose it depends on the particular vectors of the impact.
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Apr 12, 2023 00:40
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The rear wheel on my road bike was really gunked up and had trouble spinning so I've disassembled the hub and removed the axle and given everything a good cleaning and soak in degreaser. I'm ready to put it back together but noticed that these two gaskets on the axle ends are very stretched and presumably should be replaced. So my question is: what the hell do I call these things and how do I find the correct ones to replace them? Also if I can't find any in a reasonable time frame is it ok to put back together with these or am I going to have problems?  e: I ended up cutting a segment out of the gasket ring to make it fit. One of the metal cones has some pretty jacked up metal burrs on it so I think I'm going to pull it all apart again soon and replace the cones & bearings entirely. Jato fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Apr 12, 2023 |
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Apr 12, 2023 16:18
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Looking to buy some hubs and start practicing building some wheels for my old steel commuter, but when I went to measure my old wheels, current cheapo wheels from the bike shop and the inside distance on the frame dropouts I got three different measurements. Original steel rim wheels: 126mm Bike shop supplied cheap wheel: 130mm droupouts: ~138mm I was looking to get some older hubs off ebay so I could go through the whole thing of rebuilding them, then building up the wheel. Anyway, would it be better to go for 126 or 130mm? The chainstays are obviously out of wack and still quite flexible.
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Apr 12, 2023 16:22
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Shimano crank arms...This is the second bike I've had where I've had an issue with the preload bolt disappearing into the void. The first bike I didn't notice until the crank arm on the left side fell off. This new bike was making a noise while pedaling under load, so I checked it when I got home. I noticed the cap was gone and ordered a couple more since this seems to happen to me more often than it should... What is the proper preload for these before you tighten the pinch bolts? It's not something I can really check with a torque wrench with the park tool thumb wheel thing I have (see pic) but curious if there's a better way/tool to do this? I literally had 3 rides on this bike (22 miles of midwest MTB riding) that I built, but looked it up beforehand where a guide said just get them tight but not too tight basically to not laterally load the BB. 
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Apr 14, 2023 19:31
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I might be wrong but I don't think the cap can really fall off if the pinch bolts are tightened to the correct torque with the crank being inserted deep enough on the axle. Kinda like a threadless headset where you can remove the top cap once the stem is tightened without the bearing coming loose.
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Apr 14, 2023 19:52
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Havana Affair posted:I might be wrong but I don't think the cap can really fall off if the pinch bolts are tightened to the correct torque with the crank being inserted deep enough on the axle. Kinda like a threadless headset where you can remove the top cap once the stem is tightened without the bearing coming loose. Yep pretty much. It could be removed and would do nothing as all its doing is preload. Finger tight, just enough to remove play in the BB is all it needs. It won’t ever fall out, especially if the threads are greased. But it’s plastic and not made to hold the crank on… Suburban Dad’s problem is undoubtedly that the crank arm bolts weren’t torqued correctly, probably by the shop, sadly common for mass market non-specialist bike shops. This happened to a friend of mine buying a gravel bike from Wiggle last year. I think Shimano recommend you re-check the torque after 1000 miles or something too.
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Apr 14, 2023 20:33
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The whole point of the tool you can only tighten with your finger and thumb, is that it only needs tightening to thumb tight.. The bolts are to blame here
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Apr 14, 2023 20:59
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I built the bike from the ground up and ordered all the parts. I torqued the pinch bolts to 14 Nm I think. I'd love blame a shop but it was was all me. I'll grease the next one and hope it doesn't piss off again and check the torque after each ride. E: decided to check and neither was at 14Nm. Either they loosened or I removed them after tightening it once and forgot to check it again. I do remember having to remove the cranks and BB to feed the dropper cable up through the frame as it was getting stuck around the BB. Welp. E2: I did alternate tightening them and used one BB spacer. M8100 cranks with 73mm shell I think called for only one. I will recheck while I'm at it. Thank you all for the suggestions. Bad bike mechanic strikes again Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 21:13 on Apr 14, 2023 |
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Apr 14, 2023 21:05
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In that case it might be worth thinking about two things: Make sure you didn't use too many bb spacers Alternate torquing the two pinch bolts repeatedly, so one isn't left loose after tightening the other one down.
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Apr 14, 2023 21:08
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Bicycle Maintenance and Repair Megathread: I’ve got the WORST mechanic.
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Apr 14, 2023 21:30
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Suburban Dad posted:Shimano crank arms...This is the second bike I've had where I've had an issue with the preload bolt disappearing into the void. The first bike I didn't notice until the crank arm on the left side fell off. This new bike was making a noise while pedaling under load, so I checked it when I got home. I noticed the cap was gone and ordered a couple more since this seems to happen to me more often than it should... What is the proper preload for these before you tighten the pinch bolts? It's not something I can really check with a torque wrench with the park tool thumb wheel thing I have (see pic) but curious if there's a better way/tool to do this?
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Apr 16, 2023 23:26
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mikemelbrooks posted:I had a similar thing happen to me and figured out i used the wrong bottom bracket my bike was 73mm wide and the BB I used was for a 69mm shell. The difference in width meant the cap was only engaging by a couple of threads. Are you sure the crank is fully engaged on the splines? Like others have said once the crank bolts are tightened you can remove the cap completely or snug it down a little tighter. I'll recheck everything once new caps come in but I'm fairly certain I forgot to torque the bolts back up after undoing them. 
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Apr 17, 2023 12:13
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I'm super confused on a headset/spacer/topcap situation that I stumbled into fixing. Last week I had no play in my headset. Big crash on Saturday - luckily no broken bones. Fast forward to today, I was going over my bike to make sure I didn't gently caress anything up too bad and find that my headset is loose. Ok no biggie, I loosen the pinch bolts, tighten the top cap bolt thing, retighten the pinch bolts and it's still loose. I poked around on Youtube and ultimately added a tiny spacer on top (right beneath the top cap) and it fixed the problem. More than anything, I'm wondering why it was fine without the spacer last week and needed it this week. Did the crash maybe toss the fork further up through the head tube or something?
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Apr 19, 2023 00:07
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marsisol posted:I'm super confused on a headset/spacer/topcap situation that I stumbled into fixing. Maybe your fork is busted. Or maybe it just caused the expansion plug inside the steerer to slip. I'd recommend fully removing your fork, checking the integrity of the steerer tube, and, if it's okay, reinstalling the expansion plug.
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Apr 19, 2023 01:01
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Spoke tension measuring tool - shell out for a Park, or is there an accurate knockoff?
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Apr 19, 2023 03:43
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ZTTO has been fine for me. Probably gets in the ballpark in absolute terms and works for relative tension going around the wheel.
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Apr 19, 2023 03:48
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When it comes to spokes and twin pinch bolts (Stems, Hollowtech cranks, etc) having the tension/torque even is probably more important than being right on the numbers.
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Apr 20, 2023 14:10
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Cranks back on but now have more questions. I've heard some fox forks come blobbed with too much grease in them so they can't equalize pressure. I wonder if mine has this issue because it makes a hissing noise after every compression and appears to have a shitload packed down in there when removing the air valve. My 34 Rhythm (130mm rhythm vs 140mm factory, both 34s) doesn't make this noise at all so something seems off. Right click, show controls, and turn the sound on. Dunno if there's a way to have them on by default, but that would feel like an autoplay ad and piss me off too. https://i.imgur.com/v6m1zS6.mp4  I think the answer is do a lower service (well, at least remove the lowers and replace the oil that's lost. I have 3 rides on this fork so the seals are fine...) and clean that poo poo out, but wanted to get more thoughts here first before taking apart a brand new part. I like a quiet bike and would like to fix it if possible. E: more googling says people say it is normal and is caused by the oil moving through small holes depending on what rebound is set to. Indeed changing rebound changes it so I'll just check the excess grease when I change the oil for the first service. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Apr 24, 2023 |
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Apr 24, 2023 14:06
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I discovered a handy trick for sorting and cleaning parts while tearing down my winter bike yesterday. I wanted some way to keep things straight and I grabbed some plastic blueberry and strawberry clamshell cartons from our recycling bin and they were really handy. The holes are small enough that everything but small ball bearings and some washers can't fit through, and they let me just dunk the whole thing in a soapy soak while I took other parts off, then pull them out and detail them, then put them back and dunk the whole thing in a rinse bucket a few times. It keeps all of the bolts and screws and stuff for each part together and I don't have to fiddle with them one by one rinsing them. They dried off fine in the cartons and now they're sorted for me when I go re-lube and re-assemble. They stack reasonably well too.
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Apr 24, 2023 21:23
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Quote is not edit
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Apr 24, 2023 21:25
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Suburban Dad posted:Cranks back on but now have more questions. I've heard some fox forks come blobbed with too much grease in them so they can't equalize pressure. I wonder if mine has this issue because it makes a hissing noise after every compression and appears to have a shitload packed down in there when removing the air valve. My 34 Rhythm (130mm rhythm vs 140mm factory, both 34s) doesn't make this noise at all so something seems off. IME, Fox dampers have a bit of a sound to them. The grease thing could still be an issue. It was with mine.
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Apr 24, 2023 22:31
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I have a 1970 (it might be 1977) Raleigh Record that I have set up as a singlespeed/fixie. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/retroraleighs/record.html Everything on it is good, except the drop bars are too low and too narrow for my comfort. Since the stem is a quill stem (I think?), I'm thinking I need a new stem and new drop bars for it. Is there an option for this that will make it look not horrible? I love the look of the original stem, but I don't think I can keep it and have it still be a bike I want to ride regularly because it's just too uncomfortable.
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May 2, 2023 02:16
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Koth posted:I have a 1970 (it might be 1977) Raleigh Record that I have set up as a singlespeed/fixie. With a quill stem you can raise the bars without changing the stem (up to the minimum insertion line marked on it). You can buy a higher rise stem for it, but if your concern is making it look bad... the aesthetics of that sort of bike get pretty compromised when you try to make a frame that doesn't fit work, imo. If it's going to take extreme extensions to be comfortable you'd probably be better off looking for a frame that fits you better rather than investing in modifying this one. Cheap 70s frames are a dime a dozen.
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May 2, 2023 03:25
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bicievino posted:With a quill stem you can raise the bars without changing the stem (up to the minimum insertion line marked on it). True. But it was my dad's bike, so I would like to keep it and modify it to ride it. I'm about two inches taller than him. Are there any wider handlebars that will fit an old style quill stem?
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May 2, 2023 04:21
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