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Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
What brands of white are you using?

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Paranoid Dude
Jul 6, 2014
I've been using both citadel and Vallejo grey-whites

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Hmm. The citadel whites might as well just be a $5 bill that the clerk at your LGS lights on fire once you hand it to them because they're so bad. The Vallejo whites are finicky and take a few layers. I've really only used white, off-white, ice yellow, game color wolf grey, ghost grey and some other I'm blanking on. But if you want a simple, one layer and your done white paint please let me know when you find it as that poo poo doesn't exist. I've also tried liquitex gouache white, pro acryll white, p3 morrow white, and AK white. They all have similar issues you're reporting. White is just like that due to the pigment sizes even when they're not titanium oxide.

But if you're looking to just make dots, you'll likely have better luck not thinning the paint and using a dotting tool for it. My mom got some in a manicure set and I didn't know they were for painting dots, my gut reaction was to use them for sculpting in foam

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

for tiny white dots (are you making eyes?) then you basically have to go thick. maybe not straight out of the pot but close to it.

edge highlighting you are going to have to work in layers, maybe with an off-white or grey underneath it.

my other question would be what you are using the white for? it's rare that pure white is necessary, the brightest I usually use on a model is usually ulthuan grey or one of the warm off-whites

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
Ser Gregor Clegane

gently caress painting yellow forever, gently caress Vallejo Sun Yellow it's the worst paint I've ever used

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

Paranoid Dude posted:

I'm having a bit of a "skill issue" as the kids call it. How do you guys get good dots of white on models? I often find my white paint comes in two mode: thick slop that refuses to obey my every command, and literal paint water. No matter how smoothly I try to think down my whites, even with glaze medium, I find that it just instantly disintegrates into pigment fluid. It makes it really hard to edge highlight or paint white dots onto flat surfaces.

Are you painting some Ghost Bear mechs or what? You could try a paint pen as well.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Paranoid Dude posted:

I've been using both citadel and Vallejo grey-whites

I would use GW Ulthuan Grey or Vallejo Deck Tan. Shake very well as they have a habit of settling. I would also advise against trying to thin a big batch, it very rapidly goes from too thick to too thin and ambient drying can screw around with it as well. If you're doing something like eyes, I'd take a small amount on your brush and thin it gradually with water from the brush until you hit the right consistency and use it immediately rather than trying to figure out how many drops of paint to water.

Paranoid Dude
Jul 6, 2014

Muir posted:

Are you painting some Ghost Bear mechs or what? You could try a paint pen as well.

Hehe, I'm more of a Capellan fan boy than a clanner. I have a handful of Capellan mechs, my Yu-Huang being my favorite battletech mini of all time.

I'm trying to draw some freehanded heraldry, specifically trying do lines on a small surface. I'll try out some less-than-thinned paint and see if that improves things. I may just give up on the lines and go for a quartered or halved scheme.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Count Thrashula posted:

Ser Gregor Clegane

gently caress painting yellow forever, gently caress Vallejo Sun Yellow it's the worst paint I've ever used



Apparently the trick is to paint white first and then do yellow, but I hate it because it adds additional steps that end up being easier with an airbrush

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?

Paranoid Dude posted:

I'm having a bit of a "skill issue" as the kids call it. How do you guys get good dots of white on models? I often find my white paint comes in two mode: thick slop that refuses to obey my every command, and literal paint water. No matter how smoothly I try to think down my whites, even with glaze medium, I find that it just instantly disintegrates into pigment fluid. It makes it really hard to edge highlight or paint white dots onto flat surfaces.

How fine are these dots? Often for edge highlighting or line work, I just get the brush wet and then get a touch of paint on the tip, unthinned otherwise. If it's too runny even then, touch it on a paper towel. For lots of line work, i imagine flow improver is called for

Dreylad
Jun 19, 2001
Flow improver or gloss varnish both help thin white and make it easier to apply without thinning it too much. It can be tricky to get the right amount though, but white is hard to use well.

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

GreenBuckanneer posted:

Apparently the trick is to paint white first and then do yellow, but I hate it because it adds additional steps that end up being easier with an airbrush

I would recommend an undercoat of a light brown colour (beige) before painting yellow. I used that same Vallejo yellow and got vivid and pretty simple results that way. It’s an extra step but you’re layering anyway. And with fold of cloth you can do a darker brown undercoat in the recesses which will give you the shading.

Lucinice
Feb 15, 2012

You look tired. Maybe you should stop posting.
Am I not supposed to leave paint on wet palettes for too long? I've noticed that on my AP wet palette the paint has soaked through the sheet and gotten in the sponge.

Lucinice fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Apr 27, 2023

Wondermoose
Aug 17, 2009

Sab669 posted:

I like that a lot, what'd you do for the green? I was trying to find a recipe for a good metallic green a long time ago but never found anything I liked. Closest was just Contrast over a Silver base coat

I did a silver pre-shade with ProAcryl Dark Silver and VMA Steel. Then airbrushed Warp Lightning Contrast over the highlights, and Dark Angels Green Contrast over the shadows. I stole the idea form the Cult of Paint YouTube channel.

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Lucinice posted:

Am I not supposed to leave paint on wet palettes for too long? I've noticed that on my AP wet palette the paint has soaked through the sheet and gotten in the sponge.

You've ruined your wet palette!

Seriously though, nah it's fine. A little color seep through and/or sponge staining isn't a big deal at all.

Lucinice
Feb 15, 2012

You look tired. Maybe you should stop posting.

AndyElusive posted:

You've ruined your wet palette!

DON'T SCARE ME LIKE THAT

:argh:

Wrr
Aug 8, 2010


My spouse suggested we try our hands at making dioramas and I went full steam ahead with slapping something together. I used stuff I had on-hand; the cultist figure was someone I got for free from a GW store and the little dragon figure was one I've had since I was like, 10 years old. The runes were inspired by the correspondence from Fallen London.








First time ever doing one. I learned a lot from it though; first of all using pre-cut blocks of Styrofoam works way better than gluing some pieces from shipping left-overs. The resin pour went kinda bad and I think it may help to use two-part resin rather than bottled UV resin in the future. I don't know exactly how it went bad; but I did it in multiple pours and I think that the resin heating up ended up melting the styrofoam a bit, leading to part of the cavity issues. I think doing a better job of cutting out the runes would've helped too.

Still, for a first time job that I was trying not to get too bogged down in "perfect" or "correct" it came out pretty well I think!

Ghosts!
Jan 6, 2004
I like it, the stone blocks and archway look nice. What did you use to contain the resin on the edge?

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I have no idea how to do the resin part but I think it looks great

Dreylad
Jun 19, 2001
I think I'm ready to pull the trigger on an airbrush. I've been eyeing the Iwata eclipse for a while. I'm in Canada and the major suppliers have the airbrush but not the airbrush + kit, not sure if that matters. Trying to find a compressor is another matter, the ones from airbrush suppliers are more expensive than the airbrush itself and the recommendations in the thread are all sold out on amazon so I'm not sure what to do about that. Aside from paints and cleaning supplies, I just need an airbrush, a hose, and a compressor. Am I missing anything?

Meatlong Football
Feb 11, 2008


Dreylad posted:

I think I'm ready to pull the trigger on an airbrush. I've been eyeing the Iwata eclipse for a while. I'm in Canada and the major suppliers have the airbrush but not the airbrush + kit, not sure if that matters. Trying to find a compressor is another matter, the ones from airbrush suppliers are more expensive than the airbrush itself and the recommendations in the thread are all sold out on amazon so I'm not sure what to do about that. Aside from paints and cleaning supplies, I just need an airbrush, a hose, and a compressor. Am I missing anything?

Anything with an as-186 compressor + tank will be functionally identical to what you see in every hobby youtubers background. This model is the same as one I bought a few years ago under a different badge. I might recommend a cheap iwata knockoff to go with it so you can be less precious about it while building good airbrush habits. It's only like $20 more than a hose by itself and it's much less nerve wracking to pull and re-insert the needle on an airbrush worth a fraction of a good one. I bought this a few months ago because my old cheapy had a cross threaded part I was tired of dealing with, no complaints for 95% of what I use the airbrush for. If you want to be real fancy get a quick disconnect, very convenient for keeping things tidy but not necessary at all. I follow Vince V's airbrush workflow and while the typical airbrush cleaning pot is useless it is still necessary to have some way to put your airbrush down.

Meatlong Football fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Apr 28, 2023

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

That diorama is great!

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Meatlong Football posted:

This model is the same as one I bought a few years ago under a different badge.

Almost all airbrush compressors sold look exactly like this, but painted different colors and with different branding. I'm pretty sure that there is one factory somewhere in China that pumps these things out and sells them to various brands for cheap.

But they are good. I have one of those and it has worked perfectly for years and years.

Meatlong Football posted:

. I follow Vince V's airbrush workflow and while the typical airbrush cleaning pot is useless it is still necessary to have some way to put your airbrush down.

Same, although I do think airbrush cleaning pots aren't exactly useless, but they aren't necessary. They are a minor convenience that is not required but still nice. I had one and broke it, and I do kinda miss having it and am gonna pick a new one up eventually.

Sure, you can do the Vincey V approved method of just having a paper towel in a plastic cup, but it is nice to just have one of those cleaning pots to dump into.

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.
I just finished my Tau Pathfinder Kill Team Plus a DarkStrider and a Cadre Fireblade.









Sadly, I dont consider this team a success, I made many many mistakes painting this, and I spent far too many of them 'searching' for the palette which ended up gunking it alot. Also, I did not know the difference between a 'tone' paint and a 'shader' paint and a 'wash' paint which ended up causing alot of mistakes.

But! towards the end I learned alot about thinning paints, how to properly layer and not needing to use white and instead using a light blue or some other off-white color and keeping white as an accent. I think I will completely avoid using white in all future paint schemes until I know what I'm doing.

***RANT***

HOW THE HELL DO THEY GET SUCH CLEAN WHITES AND ORANGES JESUS CHRIST JUST KILL ME.

***RANT***


Overall, it was a valuable learning experience, one that I hope to really apply all the lessons on the more important teams I am looking forward to (the Veteran Krieg and other humans, and the Orks and Gellerpox)

Still not going to attempt detailed faces until much farther down the line, I think the basic wash is fine for now.

Also, I'm not longer willing to use an Iphone for all future Photoshoots, it loving sucks, autofocus sucks, the lighting is always this wierd yellow tint, I hate it. I am going to invest in a decent camera and some sort of box and white lights to take pictures in.

Al-Saqr fucked around with this message at 12:05 on Apr 28, 2023

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Al-Saqr posted:


***RANT***

HOW THE HELL DO THEY GET SUCH CLEAN WHITES AND ORANGES JESUS CHRIST JUST KILL ME.

***RANT***



Check out the ‘Eavy Meta Archive. It seems that getting a good base then shading with thinned paints instead of Shades is how they do it, plus multiple highlights with tidying.

Marx Headroom
May 10, 2007

AT LAST! A show with nonono commercials!
Fallen Rib

Sooooooo coooool

Have you seen Luke Towan? He's my personal diorama Bob Ross

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
Been picking at this guy on and off for a couple months, time to put him on the shelf

Paranoid Dude
Jul 6, 2014
Ooh, that's a beautiful model and he's painted pretty well! Good job! That obsidian trident is a really cool idea.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009


This thing is so drat cool.


edit; Stupid question, how do you keep your super glue bottles from blocking themselves?


I just bought this bottle 2 weeks ago. I've nearly finished assembling this box of 8 Genestealres, only 8 arms and some carapace remaining... and I can't get anything out because there's like a solidified glob in the tube.

I do have some Tamiya liquid cement or whatever but for some applications the gel glue works better for me :shrug;

Sab669 fucked around with this message at 15:08 on Apr 28, 2023

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
3 more ASOIAF minis done, some Lannister captains

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

Sab669 posted:

edit; Stupid question, how do you keep your super glue bottles from blocking themselves?

You don't. Get a pin or thumbtack, and drive it down into the applicator tip to clear a channel. If the clog is really deep, you might have to remove the cap and clean it from the other end, or even get a mini drill bit out to drill in and clear it.

Just the way it goes with CA.

Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


A pin vise is a wise investment for a lot of things, including pinning model parts and clearing nozzle clogs.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


just squeeze the tube really hard, from experience i know it will definitely not end in disaster with your fingers stuck to each other and your desk having gross little bits that never really go away

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Ah yea I usually just poke a dull exacto blade down in there, or just now used a pair of tweasers but I wasn't sure if there was some actual User Error going on here :v: but gooing up in under 8 models of use was a new record for me.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe
One trick I learned after many fruitless sessions stabbing super glue bottles with paperclips is to get actual modelling pins. They're used to hold plans onto material like balsa for tracing. Unlike paperclips these are made of hardened steel so they won't bend under pressure and make it much easier to clear jams from glue bottles.


Before anyone asks - the trick with plastic glue bottles with the long thin metal applicators is to run a lighter along them.

Dreylad
Jun 19, 2001

Meatlong Football posted:

Anything with an as-186 compressor + tank will be functionally identical to what you see in every hobby youtubers background. This model is the same as one I bought a few years ago under a different badge. I might recommend a cheap iwata knockoff to go with it so you can be less precious about it while building good airbrush habits. It's only like $20 more than a hose by itself and it's much less nerve wracking to pull and re-insert the needle on an airbrush worth a fraction of a good one. I bought this a few months ago because my old cheapy had a cross threaded part I was tired of dealing with, no complaints for 95% of what I use the airbrush for. If you want to be real fancy get a quick disconnect, very convenient for keeping things tidy but not necessary at all. I follow Vince V's airbrush workflow and while the typical airbrush cleaning pot is useless it is still necessary to have some way to put your airbrush down.

Thank you! Really appreciate the thoughts and the links. I'll grab that compressor, and yeah I had a feeling they're all the same as mentioned above.

You make a pretty compelling point about getting a cheap airbrush to try it out, and I can't really argue with the cost compared to an actual iwata, especially since most of the immediate airbrush work I'd be doing is priming and base coating anyway.

Also I just realized that on my checklist I need a paint vent/booth and a mask and forgot to mention those. Shouldn't type out posts late at night.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Dreylad posted:

Thank you! Really appreciate the thoughts and the links. I'll grab that compressor, and yeah I had a feeling they're all the same as mentioned above.

You make a pretty compelling point about getting a cheap airbrush to try it out, and I can't really argue with the cost compared to an actual iwata, especially since most of the immediate airbrush work I'd be doing is priming and base coating anyway.

Also I just realized that on my checklist I need a paint vent/booth and a mask and forgot to mention those. Shouldn't type out posts late at night.

If you can afford it, I would suggest an Iwata Neo at the very least, Eclipse ideally. They're not that expensive in the grand scheme of a miniature hobby and they'll be far more pleasant to use. The cheap brushes are very cheap but I found after a while they will start to clog and then they are extremely difficult to clean. This is very relevant if you spray primers as those will love to clog (even the specialist airbrush ones).

I nearly gave up on airbrushing completely after my experience with the cheap brushes where I'd spend 75% of an airbrushing session cleaning and troubleshooting my airbrush instead of actually painting. The Eclipse has far better nozzle design which is much easier to clean and is less prone to clogging in general.

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

Sab669 posted:


edit; Stupid question, how do you keep your super glue bottles from blocking themselves?


I came across this tip... I forget where (52 minis maybe?) but I didn't think it would work, but it does and it's the best hobby tip in the world and has changed my life. To keep your super glue bottles clear, just rest the cap on them after using it. Don't tighten it. Just rest it on there. Glue will not dry out, tip stays clear, no gunk on the tube, etc.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Lumpy posted:

I came across this tip... I forget where (52 minis maybe?) but I didn't think it would work, but it does and it's the best hobby tip in the world and has changed my life. To keep your super glue bottles clear, just rest the cap on them after using it. Don't tighten it. Just rest it on there. Glue will not dry out, tip stays clear, no gunk on the tube, etc.

I have been doing that to great success after seeing it on a youtube

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Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Lumpy posted:

I came across this tip... I forget where (52 minis maybe?) but I didn't think it would work, but it does and it's the best hobby tip in the world and has changed my life. To keep your super glue bottles clear, just rest the cap on them after using it. Don't tighten it. Just rest it on there. Glue will not dry out, tip stays clear, no gunk on the tube, etc.

I do this but also clean the tip off with some lab wipes after using it. It stays super clean every time

https://www.amazon.com/Kimberly-Clark-Kimtech-Kimwipes-Delicate-Disposable/dp/B07P9S8T8X

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