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I love this loving thread
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Apr 21, 2023 06:55
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UCS Hellmaker posted:I love this loving thread It's like watching a wagon train crossing hostile land and the lead narrator is the veterinarian whom is also a necromancer.
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Apr 21, 2023 07:35
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Hooray, more mines!
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Apr 21, 2023 13:11
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fondue posted:It's like watching a wagon train crossing hostile land and the lead narrator is the veterinarian whom is also a necromancer.
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Apr 22, 2023 17:13
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Apr 22, 2023 17:26
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"do you want to Ford the-" "gently caress no I am tired of Fording anything"
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Apr 22, 2023 23:43
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Mods it's time for a new thread title.
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Apr 22, 2023 23:52
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something something ford the desert
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Apr 23, 2023 00:49
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kastein posted:"do you want to Ford the-" "gently caress no I am tired of Fording anything"
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Apr 23, 2023 02:41
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I can't afford to ford this ford in this Ford.
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Apr 23, 2023 02:44
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 I love this picture.
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Apr 23, 2023 04:09
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cursedshitbox posted:Mods it's time for a new thread title. REPORTED 
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Apr 23, 2023 08:34
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cursedshitbox posted:Mods it's time for a new thread title. Yeah fair enough
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Apr 23, 2023 14:12
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Yeah fair enough Thanks Cat Since the ford is only good at fording junkyards and there's no chevy to shove into the levee let's go ride bikes and see some old friends of the desert.     I hit a good rock comin down from the little hill this cabin is on and went full on superman over the bars. Hadn't crashed like that in probably 20 years. Numerous cuts and scrapes. Broke the light mount but nothing else. Went on to ride 30 miles.  Powered solely off the too many cinnamon buns I made.  Made it to Furgeson Lake.   Snowbird neighbors think I'm some kind of mutant for riding non e-bikes here. I agree, but I also don't. This area is prime trails for the 100+hp dirtbike. BSing with goons off world about how I'm going to fix this truck. I pour over the CL search engine once again and find a listing of poo poo tractors that could perform the task of 'move this wagon' I've been following some 80s S international 4wd trucks. 9L v8 with no turbo? no way. 8.2 turbo detroit against a 4 speed allison? uuuuuh I'll kill that too. He's anti ram so no rams. Topkicks I'd do. 4wd and with a CP3 is rare as hell. I found a pair of F550s. A pair. Twins. actually. The only two within a thousand mile drive. Both 2012s. Both from the same company. Both with nearly the same loadout and 18k gvwr/36k gcvwr. The 19,500lb gvwr would have been better but that is restricted to 4.88 gears meaning the truck is spun out at 60mph. They're at what I'd call a poo poo-tier dealer. In the name of buying auction trucks and flipping em. Their main market is 3/4 ton top trim diesels. These heavy haulers sat for a while. One truck with 110k miles, and the other with 95. The 95k miler has vinyl interior, the 110 with cloth. The one with 110k was a lot cheaper. Like 10 thou. The history report on both are more or less fine with the 110k-mile truck having a lot of weird poo poo replaced. Like its eaten a couple of rearends and wheel hubs. But the other one has a penchant for emissions parts and three? turbos. For a pre 2015 6.7 that is not out of the ordinary. The one with cloth sold literally the day before I called. Dammit, I wanted the second example to base off of. Looking like an excellent week for this dealer. Cue the longest day to drive out to LA and take a peek at the trucks. 13 hours and 550 miles in the seat of the Jeep. It does good for road trips. Really good. I'm glad we bought it. 9' flatbed. Which when I bought the truck thought was 12' and spent nearly a week designing the modifications to house the camper entirely on the flatbed only to learn that it was 9'. The width and headache rack heights were more important measurements at the time than the bed length.   The wheels/hubs were sloppily painted. The front fender black fender extensions look new. They're in with self tappers. Total fleet truck sorta stuff. It's a little rough around the edges cosmetically. That's no big, I can clean that up and that makes a huge difference in something used.   The driver's dash ball vent is missing. Small fries. Some remnants of upfitter equipment left in the cab. Aftermarket brake controller despite having one built in and linked to the truck's systems.  The tires are from 2016. Needs a full set all around. They're mismatched. Deathwhobble on the test drive in which I gave the salesman The Look.  It'd need a set of tires before I drive it back to camp. This is unacceptable. This truck was a fleet truck from Texas. As best that we could discover is that it was used to haul fracking supply materials. No, those materials are not cylons. Though with how this truck is networked... Dana Super 60 front. 10" ring on 4.30 gears, 85" wide, 14.53" discs, 1550 axle shaft Ujoints. 7k-lb GAWR.  Dana S110 rear. 13,660 GAWR, 15.35" discs, 34 spline shafts, Detroit LSD, and 12-1/4" ring gear. These axles are featured in different trims all the way up to 26k gawr.    The Beef     Hose Storage aka Medusa: Engine Edition Good thing these are modern marvels of reliability and engineering. This fucker will suck to fix. 300hp/660lb-ft pushed through a 6R140 6 speed auto. Narrow frame 6.7s are configured for durability rather than all out stop light winning power. I like durable.  The new turbo. You can't see it? Yeah me either.  The EGR valve is new. The SCR pump/heater/assembly has been replaced. There's a small coolant leak somewhere and the coolant is discolored since its at the end of its service life. Oil looks okay. It'll need a full service to ensure there's no hassles once I want to leave the LTVA. Not two weeks transpired since arriving to the LTVA and polling every source I had for a suitable truck transmission. I didn't want to buy a second truck, but once making the decision with my husband, we went for it. Paperwork and Downpayment process started, picking it up in a week so that I can sort logistics of tires and etc. My next post will be a deep dive into this truck with what I've learned about it. Till then, I'll leave you with a hex table of the truck's config that I dumped before I took delivery.  back in the old days if you wanted something in your poo poo tractor you'd need to run a buncha wire and fuses and switches and all this loving antique poo poo that belongs in a museum. Now you edit hex tables in the controller to switch poo poo on and off. Yes, I have dumped the roms of a truck I haven't physically taken ownership of yet and have already started the work of populating what the tables do.
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Apr 23, 2023 18:50
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Sweetness, been waiting to get to this point in the story!
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Apr 23, 2023 21:27
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After watching the MCM episode where they “tuned” their Hilux, I’m curious if that sort of thing is in your wheelhouse or something you’d farm out, if you even bother?
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Apr 23, 2023 22:04
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I don't really follow youtubes or influencers. Truck people are the worst so this is something I enjoy in privacy. tbh most my hobbies are this way. Tuning: Tuning? yes. I've done a lot of it over the years. I've built a tune or three for goons even. Now, what can I do with this truck? Absolutely fuckall. This chaps my rear end for long term maintainability. This truck will learn and adapt to wear. But not always. I am not above grafting other parts in to make it do a job. This vehicle does not facilitate such. After 2013 or so there's no way to edit the tables within the pcm per federal mandate. There's a handful of tuners that will do emissions compliant tuning. That is more or less the only option now. Then there's California's CARB-EO certified tuning. This truck is technically smog exempt anyway. It is clean idle certified with 50 state emissions and over 14k gvwr. There's one or two that will do emissions deletes and tuning. This has been dwindling year by year due to federal crackdown on such. Typically involved is a questionaire and they'll build the tune and mail you a device to flash the pcm. Pricing is anywhere between $500-2k. The TCM is separate from the PCM. If someone doesn't spring for TCM tuning as a part of PCM tuning it'll result in poor shifts in gear 5 and only gear 5, eventually damaging the box. (There's a constant in the pcm for its dyno'd torque output. The pcm uses this constant for setting a percentage of its power output. The TCM wants this value too, however it has its own constant. See the discrepancy? If the engine is pushing 900lb-ft and the transmission is expecting 660.... there's problems. The TCM not calibrated for more torque results in a mushy or harsh shift which accelerates clutch wear. The PCM will reduce torque output during shifting to prolong gearbox life) Then there's the effects of running a hotter tune. The 300hp dyno certified 6.7 engine has a B10 life of half a million miles. This means that 10% of the 300hp engines will require major repairs or overhaul in 500,000 miles while 90% do not. The 7.3 PSD/T444E has a B10 of 200k and B50 of 350,000 miles. The B series 5.9 12 valve is the same. I assume similar for the IDI. Heat is wear. Heat reduces longevity. It soaks into all other subsystems. Plastics will age faster. Valves and valve guides get hammered. The turbo bakes, the pistons are cooked, etc. To what? Make it to camp 10 minutes sooner just to spend the next week sorting out how to repair the thing. Air Management: I am not for removing emissions equipment*. The power potential of the stock config of this truck is you guessed it, 300hp. This is a turbo that little 4g63 guys use for hop up parts. It's a GT32 without the double compressor wheels. It's a weedy little fucker on a nearly 7L truck engine that spins 150,000 rpm all day everyday. In 2017 the second revision of the 6.7 got a GT37 good for 550hp. It's retrofittable to this chassis and does require tuning but it does retain the emissions systems. CARB legality is a gray area afaik. Ford Performance sells a kit to make it easy. The stock fuel system is good for ~550hp. Upgrading to the 2017+ CP4.2 is good for 750ish hp. I'd prefer Stanadyne's pump anyway. These CP4s are not happy about literally anything other than Eurozone low sulfur fuels let alone B100 that the farm truck happily runs on. I don't really know what the power potential for this engine is, nor do I really care. As it sits it makes 318 Detroit power. A GT37 puts it into 8V92TA territory with hot injectors. What more does a person need to move their house? Perspective. Donk the antique makes ~195hp continuous and like 205 intermittent. To utilize the full potential of its 350whp capable turbocharger is around 5 grand in fuel system parts and involves tearing the engine down to the shortblock and building it back up. There's not much room left over 350whp shy of building the short block. Then it's... 450-500 wheel for a really undriveable smokey piece of poo poo sled puller. I'm aware of only a couple transmissions that would put up with 400 crank rear end-power. The GT32/37 is a liquid cooled variable geometry turbo. In the narrow frame trucks there's no wastegate. Both are ball bearing with the 32 using ceramic bearings that are pretty fragile. Ford apparently did not learn from the 90s. The GT37 is probably the best of all worlds with about $4k to do. ATS has the Aurora 3000 which plays nice with emissions and slots in. Looks to be a T4 housing. Not sure. Also not really cheap at $2500. The farm truck uses a bushing style turbo from Borg Warner with a billet compressor wheel. It's a S257SX-E. It's basically a friggin dinosaur. There's one for the 6.7. Three or four depending on desired power. The S362SX-E is good for 450 wheel and runs about 5 thou to retrofit. This of course requires removal of its emissions components. *ON EMISSIONS DELETES: Some of us here are old enough to remember feedback carburetors, air injection pumps (smog pumps) two way catalysts that ate 40hp, vacuum control systems with diagrams that would rival plumbing diagrams in spacecraft. Hell the RX7 used transparencies to help with understanding its system. My bike is "deleted". Not by me, no. But like 10+ years ago when KTM dropped support for the systems and well they had interesting failure modes. One of the fixes was for the dealer to drill holes in the loving gas tanks so that it would properly vent rather than volcano gasoline in a torrent when popping the filler cap. Other fun things was the twin catalysts would get so hot that it would physically melt the bike and luggage, sometimes starting fires. They also weighed 10 pounds per. Back in the 6L PSD/VT365 days, yes, I absolutely removed EGR coolers. Because at the time, there were /no/ fixes available other than the same part that would fail too soon under Ford's bullshit hot tune. Now? Nah. There's so many good fixes for the 6L they can be kept stock and functional for as long as a 7.3 can make heat and noise without any benefit of power. The 6.4 is best fixed with a Fummins. This 6.7 isn't that era of engine. Ford seems to have learned from the 6L/6.4L PSDs. Ok not entirely, but for the most part. This truck is an early one with only one NOx sensor for testing its SCR system efficacy. It's.... quirky and kind of unreliable. The EGR cooler is too cold in that it causes soot buildup and then blockage. The redesign changes its plumbing so that its on the primary cooling system keeping it warm enough to prevent soot buildup. Unlike the 6L the egr valve is beastly. It's a 1.5" or so valve with a 540 sized DC motor. The kind you'd find in a 12V drill. There's a position encoder and that's about the gist of it. This engine will run just fine with the egr valve like 30% open. The torpedo assembly as they call it with the catalyst, mixer, dpf etc? stone rear end reliable unless its emissions bypassed. Deleting this part overspeeds the turbo, blowing it up. I've read dealer stories where the torpedo ingested a compressor wheel and about half a crankcase worth of oil. It survived. Turning off the egr valve clogs the valve and its cooler. To retain the egr cooler involves vacuum bleeding the cooling system. It can't be serviced like a 1980s car. With all of this intact the engine is seven circles of hell to work on. Tbh it's one of the worst I've had the misfortune of having to service. It's worse than anything German, British, and Italian I've ever touched. I still want to try and keep this stuff onboard and working as long as possible. Especially since some have co-opted removing working parts to make political statements. Small spoiler: I have had relentless issues with the emissions system. I even got the warning that my speed was going to be limited to 50mph and further reduced to idle only.... in the middle of nowhere. I still do not want to remove its components. TL;DR: This truck is an appliance and a utility. I have no passion for dicking with its powertrain at much more than a surface level. My bike and the brick fill those roles. My entire interest is in its software/electronics. My role is to keep it working at this time. When it has 300k miles, broken enough times to annoy me, and I have a shop? Let's re evaluate then. Thanks for coming to my Ted Talk
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Apr 24, 2023 17:41
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I feel the same about my Duramax. I bought it, it's my responsibility to keep it running correctly and not polluting. I know a local guy who would delete it and I'd gain power and save fuel. I'm still not doing it, even if it cost me $2k last year for the nox sensors and DEF injector.
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Apr 25, 2023 00:07
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sharkytm posted:I feel the same about my Duramax. I bought it, it's my responsibility to keep it running correctly and not polluting. I know a local guy who would delete it and I'd gain power and save fuel. I'm still not doing it, even if it cost me $2k last year for the nox sensors and DEF injector. 
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Apr 25, 2023 00:14
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Good one everdave; you really got 'em!
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Apr 25, 2023 04:04
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Other assholes exist so it's ok to be an rear end in a top hat! Polluting the air less is good.
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Apr 25, 2023 15:07
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Any thoughts on going gas? You're not making as much power as diesel but the fuel is cheaper and the emissions gear is simpler
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Apr 26, 2023 15:25
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Yes. No. I questioned this exact thing about a week ago in between getting this new truck literally grabbing me by the stones. More on that later. It's a pain in the rear end to gain altitude compensation and I'm basically a goat. They're not really configured to run at rated power with a continuous duty cycle. The farm truck would just spend hours in the meat of its fuel delivery curve making heat and noise without much of a care. modern diesels aren't rated for continuous duty either gassers in light/med duty IME *can* put up with this at the cost of plugs/etc. Engine bay temps soar and soak everything over. Sure, run a colder plug, etc. It's heavily dependent on loadout. What kind of radiator, fan clutches, transmission/pas coolers, gears, etc. More on this later. Gasser versions typically don't have the overbuilt cooling systems. It's *really* needed out west. Our air is dry as gently caress and doesn't move heat for poo poo shy of using misters like swamp cooling. Some of the aeromatics start to go flat in 3-4 weeks making it less than ideal for sitting. Paraffin in diesel drops out at ehhh 15-20F and it can host algae sooo. 8.1 chev + boost /allison 1000? I should have. I've run 454s, 366s, 500s, 472s before. They're too old now. 440s/460s are also too drat old. :P 6L LS would need a boostie boi. I'm not really into any other combo. the 7.3 godzilla is eating cams. gently caress a mod 6.2/6.8-v10. At sealevel the godzilla makes ~ the same torque as the old idi turbo with a delivery twice as fast. This dwindles for ever thou foot above sea level. I'm posting this at almost 6000'. Basically an equivalent rated gasser would have been an 8.1 topkick/kodiak. With a 70 front they're beyond rare and go for top dollar. Then bolt on 4-7 thou of blower on and go brave the wild unknown moving the weak link around one failure point at a time. noteworthy: the 366 is a beastly engine. 5 rings and big block based. rated for industrial power and duty cycles. They're either carbed or tbi. I can work with tbi. I won't touch a factory auto carb in 2023. They're good for 3-5mpg and climb slow as gently caress. sharkytm posted:I feel the same about my Duramax. I bought it, it's my responsibility to keep it running correctly and not polluting. I know a local guy who would delete it and I'd gain power and save fuel. I'm still not doing it, even if it cost me $2k last year for the nox sensors and DEF injector. This is the way. I am working on building some diagnostic tools for testing the specific actuators and such on this truck. I plan to build/open source it all in the hopes that others can use my efforts to maintain an intact truck. tbh? I don't want the black soot on my poo poo. The old farm truck's engine left its lingering filth all over the camper, bikes, etc and it kinda brought down the niceness of it all. I'm actually gonna post about some of that next week or so. There's still blown engine on the camper two years later. yeah, I'd put a cartridge style dpf on the farm truck... if they didn't cost a fistful of Benjamins. But that's what visiting the midwest is for. I literally bought a brand new egr valve/cooler/housing assembly for $80. Never ran on the truck. That's an easy $1500 in parts. Sure, I'll stockpile for pennies.
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Apr 26, 2023 17:42
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cursedshitbox posted:This is the way. I am working on building some diagnostic tools for testing the specific actuators and such on this truck. I plan to build/open source it all in the hopes that others can use my efforts to maintain an intact truck. I assume you've already checked into FORScan - how useful is it for the new truck as far as this stuff goes? It's not open source, but a 2 month license is free.
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Apr 27, 2023 02:08
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The 366 is a dinosaur and I think memory is making them seem better than they were. I think there was an industrial 427 that falls into the same boat anchor category too. I remember 50mph, 3-4mpg, and a pile of dead ones in my uncles barn. They are pretty simple to work on but by no means something you want to drive cross country in 2023. Hauling sawdust was almost too much in 1998.
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Apr 27, 2023 02:13
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STR posted:I assume you've already checked into FORScan - how useful is it for the new truck as far as this stuff goes? This is what this is.  Since then this is now a massive spreadsheet built from several others since this truck fundamentally is parts binned with even parts of the p71 code. FORScan doesn't do actuations for most subsystems like swinging the egr servo through its travel to blow the barnacles off the actuator rod. Learned value resets, adaptives, some functions like diesel fuel conditioning module priming and stationary regen. I had to clobber the gently caress out of the pcm once with it. Turns out that function isnt possible in the post 2017 trucks. Editing pcm/tcm/apim configurations is fraught with peril. I got the APIM to play ball after months of careful research. I will not gently caress with the pcm/tcm hex configs. loving that up is a tow to the dealer. I'll be sperging about forscan and forscan-lite more later. a lot more. sorry not sorry. rdb posted:The 366 is a dinosaur and I think memory is making them seem better than they were. I think there was an industrial 427 that falls into the same boat anchor category too. That is my thoughts and the same conclusion my husband and I came to and ultimately why we stuck to something within the last decade. Ideally I wanted the post 2017 but I wasn't up to driving to Ohio to pick up a truck for more than twice what this one cost.
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Apr 27, 2023 04:09
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cursedshitbox posted:This is what this is. I figured it was FORScan. Shame it can't go into the subsystems for that kind of stuff, but considering it was originally written by a Russian dude that had a Focus, I'd say it does pretty good. The P71 stuff was really just trimmed down Crown Victoria code with a few police options thrown in (like dark car). With everything, even lights, being controlled by modules now, why not just copy and paste the non-model specific stuff?  It can change a crapton of stuff on my stepdad's '19 F-150, including disabling start/stop. I was really blown away by how many options it had vs my P71, and that was without diving into any as-built files.
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Apr 28, 2023 03:47
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I'll put together a couple screenshots of what it can do. I did enable remote start on it and some other goodies. The old site of Tumco is nearby. It's one of the oldest mining towns in the state. There's close to 300 years of work here. Primarily a gold mine.       It's hard to gauge the immense size of the quarry.  A small and unfruitful prospect.  The Office. Lining up tires for this new shittractor. Nobody stocks 19.5s. And when they do, they're $500 ea.  I managed to find some Goodyears for 50% off. The jeep makes a decent water truck/Eddie wagon.  Driving westward. A jeeper with AK plates driving in the rain like it's no big deal.  You all remember the person with the ram 3500 that broke in half? They have a close relative. With the bed/camper visibly porpoising in unison as they drove through the intersection.  These hosts are so heavy it would run the F550 close to its allowable payload. A night on the beach. Picking the truck up in the morning then going straight to the tire shop.   Some socks that I should get for MTBing.  Whatever this is. I love it.  Picked the truck up, put 33 gal in it, then on to the tire shop. Shoes on. Took a few hours. They sold my drat tires out from under me to a corpo account. Had one of their field trucks roll through and take care of the job.  Pretrip, noticed the front right headlight is out. Sunlight is waning and there's a snowstorm rolling in at elevation. Can't get the headlight apart to replace the bulb. I'll do it later. It does alright in snow. Didn't slide once. Lexus RX suv went sailing past me only to end up in the median.  The drive home went without a hitch. New, meet old. Old. Meet new.  But it's not ready for work yet. It is gonna go to the local dealer and get a go through to prepare it for service. Some other little things cosmetically I'd like to take care of and prep the truck. It needs a reverse camera for sure. Then it can be pushed into service.
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Apr 28, 2023 17:21
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Can't wait!
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Apr 29, 2023 00:41
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What will you do with the old rig?
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Apr 29, 2023 02:05
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cursedshitbox posted:I'll put together a couple screenshots of what it can do. I did enable remote start on it and some other goodies. 
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Apr 29, 2023 02:32
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This. So we're slowly approaching current day. I didn't realize remote start could be enabled with FORScan.... uh, care to share where it's hidden? I'm sure my stepdad would like that on his F-150, though I'll make sure to charge him a little for enabling it. If... it's not already on, and he's just too lazy to look at the manual. What would it take to swap beefy tires to the new truck? It's obviously wearing commercial truck tires (which probably suck offroad), but I have no idea how well the tires or wheels on Donkey would handle that kind of extra weight (if there is any). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:01 on Apr 29, 2023 |
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Apr 29, 2023 07:58
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Arson Daily posted:What will you do with the old rig? It's dead in the water at the time of this writing so it has to be at least fixed enough or towed somewhere and stored. Beyond that.. ??? I considered selling it. It's worth keeping around in some capacity. It'll run on synthetic/algae fuels just fine whereas the CP4 in the F550 won't allow for it without some modifications. refit project would entail: I'm looking for a suitable aux transmission to run with the T19/SM465 4 speed. send that into a divorced 203 for awd. maybe a 205. I'm after a 1991-1997 F-superduty frame in a 137" wheelbase with a factory 15k gvr. Rehome the truck on that with a disc brake 14 bolt out of a post 2000 chev cab chassis drw. STR posted:This. Once we're through the LTVA bit I'm gonna jog the thread some. We've been revisiting a lot of the same areas as spring 2021 and fall 2022 so there's no need to exhaustively post about them. I'd originally planned to end the thread once we got to the new truck since it's a combo of boring truck and boring same places we've been. Turns out, it's been a hell of an adventure. For remote start it needs to have the tpms transceiver and the power equipment group. For the superduty the tpms module behind the glovebox and to the side. If your dads F150 is of the '09-'14 vintage the bcm/ipc are nearly identical to the '11-16 super. You'll need the key. Ideally there's a radio antenna that plugs into the tpms module to improve range. Set these configs in the BCM  And then in the IPC for the on screen menu.  Because I'm gonna post about this probably next. I've added remote start, auto lamps/fogs and changed a handful of config with the truck pertaining to the lights out monitor, indicator flashing, and what screens show on the cluster. Being a XL there's no harness for power(memory) or ventilated seats. Auto folding mirrors and the like aren't there. I *can* add 1 zone autoclimate, or when if I need to do a heatercore, add the second blend motor for dual climate. Not a priority. The XLT cluster drops in with a lcd but I don't really need it. That's about the extent of the upgrades that's possible. FORScan if it is aware of the libraries for your vehicle will give you a nice interface. I've had to code some settings manually which isn't a big deal. The IPC (cluster):  (Enabling the "off road screen" throws an ipc setting error. Betting they use the same hardware for the base cluster as they do the up trim. This is a early shot from right around when I got the truck) Operator commanded regen and the dpf screen added.  Donk is on 8x6.5 F550 is 10x225 Donk's wheels wouldn't clear the rear hubs. The tires now on the 550 are rated at around 4klb-per. Donks were 4300lb per. 6 up vs 4. The $ solution is to convert the 550 to run 20s and 42" G275A or MPT81s. Involves a regear. Add in air/hydro suspension and it's a solid 20k dollar project. So far those tires would have made the difference in going 2 maybe 3 places I otherwise said no to. In years past, we sent it anyway which largely wasn't worth the risk of beating the rig up. I've been adamant about keeping the 350 as it is and not cannibalizing it for parts. Just in case. Donk weighed 13,200. with the 550 it's at 16,000 on the nose leaving 2k payload for towing. The F550 getting the Inverse Midas Touch. 
cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Apr 29, 2023 |
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Apr 29, 2023 17:39
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cursedshitbox posted:For remote start it needs to have the tpms transceiver and the power equipment group. For the superduty the tpms module behind the glovebox and to the side. If your dads F150 is of the '09-'14 vintage the bcm/ipc are nearly identical to the '11-16 super. I looked into adding remote start to my '11 F-150 and it's just the antenna module behind the glove box and a new key. There are sellers on ebay that sell both the antenna and two new keys as a kit. If you've got two keys for the truck already, you can program the new keys and remotes yourself, otherwise you need a trip to the locksmith/dealer.
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Apr 29, 2023 19:22
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This New Ford It's finally not cold out and I feel like shitpostin over debugging my garbage rear end code. The 2012 is a departure from poo poo tractors of old and poo poo tractors I'm familiar with. I got in working on old mechanical injected engines and got out when Hydraulic Electronic Unit Injectors were long beyond their sell by date. Common-rail is a total departure from systems of old with working pressures up to 33,000 psi and piezo-electric injectors. I've kept up with what's being used but I have not worked on any of it professionally. The bricknose is about as simple as granite rock. It also moves about as fast. With ~200hp/450lb-ft it doesn't win races but for how simple and enduring it is, this is acceptable. The 7.3 PSD in its end made around 275hp with a little bit more complexity. The 6.0 and 6.4 went off the deep end to make 325 and 350hp respectively. This 6.7? It has as much plumbing as a nuclear power plant does. Here's a system diagram I put together for the 300hp 6.7 based off the 400hp 6.7 diagram below.  * small discrepancy here with the turbo wheel pictured. the 300hp truck is technically using the smaller of the two compressor wheels you see below. I kept it incorrect for visual reasons. Why comes later. The 400hp version isn't that much different.  Major differences are in the turbo with the single-sequential-turbine, the wastegate behind it, the exhaust aftertreatment systems are ordered differently, and the egr valve is slightly different. There's no fuel injector to clear the dpf. It uses all four left bank injectors firing on the exhaust stroke for regen operation. Here's a shot of the SST turbo. Mine lacks the high speed inlet and its wheel. it's still a VGT with ceramic ball bearings and is cooled by both oil and coolant.  This is the weedy fucker I get. It's a GT32. At home on a DSM but for some reason here we are on a nearly 7L truck engine turning 150 thousand rpm to make 32 psi of boost.  The air management side is like this. The exhaust side is in the valley of the V with the intakes outboard. A total departure from every ford diesel v8 that came before.  Side note: the valve covers and intakes are integrated. The valve covers do not need to come off for injectors or glowplug replacement. They're actually pretty easy looking to get at all things considered. To cool the mad 300hp, the lubrication and cooling systems rival that of German designs.  Note the turbo gets the main galley right off of the filter. A departure from oil cooled pistons is pistons with an oil galley inside them.   Then there's the cooling system. There's two radiators, two pumps, and four thermostats. There's technically three passes. This is the primary system. It covers the block, heads, heater core, turbo, egr cooler, engine oil cooler.  Then there's the secondary system. If you look closely the radiator has two crossflow setups. Each is thermostatically controlled and serve different purposes. The EGR cooler and transmission cooler hang off of the upper (hotter) section with the water to air intercooler and fuel cooler on the lower (cooler) section.  If you were paying attention you saw me mention the egr cooler twice. There's two coolant loops within it, one for each respective system. In 2016 they changed this design to host the cooler on the primary system to prevent plugging of the cooler. For the primary system it has to be vacuum bled as there's no good way to evacuate the cooler otherwise. Most every operation outside of an oil change requires draining either or both systems. The coolants are specific to their respective systems and can't be mixed. When someone says "they don't build em like they used to" Yeah you're drat right they don't. They're so much better now than the trash they extruded out of their asses decades ago. This is a comparison in routine maintenance.  (The dpf torpedo should be pulled from this list, they pretty much don't go bad unless someone delete-tunes the truck. They'll last the life of the truck. Not the engine, the truck.) More power, fewer emissions, better consumption, less down time and maintenance, while also not making the operator deaf. Now when it does break, best get out the lipstick and the dress because I want to look pretty when I get hosed. The 7.3 held 3 gallons of oil, 6 gallons of coolant. The 6.7 holds 3.2 gallons of oil and 10 gallons of coolant. The ZF5 holds 1 gallon of oil. The 6R140 holds 6 gallons. The Sterling 10.25 holds a gallon of oil, the S110 holds 2.5. And of course what we all care about the most. The Frame  This particular example is the 18k gvwr F550 supercab in a 161.8" wheelbase.  Mild 36k-psi non-heat-treated steel. FoMoCo does allow welding on certain parts of the frame. This is to allow for maximum compatibility with upfitters. The pickup frames do not allow for this. The frame itself is made up of 3 sections welded together. if you note inset 3.  Nominal without the riveted on reinforcement.  The farm truck was 1/4-5/16". (0.2500" and 0.3125") It's overbuilt braking system.  This is coming from 13" front rotors and 12.5x3" rear drums. Small fries. This punked me so many times on the test drive. The salesperson made a point to poke fun at me for it.  I've mostly gotten used to it now. Microsoft's Sync is archaically dumb.  It's also in a mood throwing codes.  I've fixed the hvac code. Then our trucks' build sheet.  Noteworthy things. A Laughable Warranty that is still the standard to this very day. A I R C O N D I T I O N I N G Dual alternators with 352A output. (5kW) The upfitter switches and associated looms are still there. Someday I'll be able to remote start and emergency charge the house from the house. There's a specific pcm function for using heavy electrical loads in a Power Take Off fashion. All aftertreatment systems are disabled during PTO operations. helical LSD with 4.3 gears. Extra heavy front service group and high capacity towing package Power equipment group, sync, and cruise. The power group is important soon. The TPMS module is there. I do not know at this time if the wheels have sensors installed. Future upgrade to enable. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Apr 29, 2023 |
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Apr 29, 2023 23:39
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Hah, I read the turn signal bit and thought it was totally normal, and it is, because that's the BMW behavior. If you use them, of course 😉 Your thread is great, even if you could clearly do with less bs.
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Apr 30, 2023 01:13
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n0tqu1tesane posted:I looked into adding remote start to my '11 F-150 and it's just the antenna module behind the glove box and a new key. There are sellers on ebay that sell both the antenna and two new keys as a kit. If you've got two keys for the truck already, you can program the new keys and remotes yourself, otherwise you need a trip to the locksmith/dealer. That's essentially what it took to add remote keyless entry (and if I wanted, early 1st gen TPMS - I didn't want to dismount my tires just to add TPMS, so I kept it disabled despite the car having the capability after adding the receiver, cluster had the TPMS light too) to my 07 P71 Crown Victoria. Admittedly, I did buy the receiver and a shortened harness from someone on Reddit - we only have two self service junkyards here, and both are a solid 40+ minute drive from me - he offered them up over PM at a very solid price that essentially made it cheaper to just buy the parts off of him instead of going to the yard (about half of what he normally sells everything for, solid dude that's also on a lot of Facebook Crown Vic groups). Dropped the receiver into the dry side of the door with the shortened harness he included, he told me what I needed to change in the DDM (driver door module, which on a Crown Victoria, handles all keyless entry and TPMS), sent me a pin and wire to insert into the DDM plug to enable the remote trunk release and told me what wire to splice for it). Panther platform cars normally have the interior trunk release on the driver's door - P71/P7B (police version) put it on the dash (with two plugs - one with constant power, you can swap it to ignition power by swapping the plug, but it takes 5 seconds to yank the trim and get to the plugs...), but the wiring is still in the door for trunk release. On Crown Vics, the RKE/TPMS receiver is behind the passenger side C pillar on 08+ standard, 06-07 had it if optioned with TPMS (not available on the police version). If you have a 06-07 P71, the wiring isn't there at all - you can snip a sub harness and modify it enough to drop the receiver into the door (and it works just fine in there, the range is just reduced a bit - the DDM [driver door module] controls almost all of that anyway). Best part is, someone else on /r/crownvictoria figured out what it took to get rid of the double honk when locking/enable parking light flash on 06-07 models - you can ground what would be the hood latch pin on the LCM to any metal bits under the dash, then BAM the car enables silent lock w/parking light flash (06-07 P71s normally lock with no indication when you add RKE, aside from the loud AF Ford "kaCHUNK" as it locks... unless you double tap lock, then you get a double honk and double light flash - the LCM thinks the hood is always open and disables the single honk/single flash otherwise, disables unlock flash as well). cursedshitbox posted:For remote start it needs to have the tpms transceiver and the power equipment group. For the superduty the tpms module behind the glovebox and to the side. If your dads F150 is of the '09-'14 vintage the bcm/ipc are nearly identical to the '11-16 super. He has the power equipment group (I want to say that's "Group 101A" for Fords, right?), and TPMS for sure (I think TPMS is mandatory these days on non-commercial vehicles?). ONE of the two fobs he got with it has the remote start button (it replaces another button, I forget which), but the truck treats it as a panic button and just starts honking/flashing the lights if you hold it. It's essentially an XLT with every possible option for an XLT without stepping up to a Lariat (except it has cloth instead of leather); it was a dealer demo that he got with nearly 3k miles (I would never, ever, ever buy a demo, especially an Ecoboost/turbo engine, but he apparently got it for a stupid cheap price just before COVID - he managed to get it well under $30k, quad cab short bed 2.7 Ecoboost that honestly scares me when I stomp it, and he managed to get the dealer to warranty it up to 60k with no time limit?!). It's a very weirdly optioned truck, but I've owned a few ex dealer-demo cars - they're pretty much always the lowest end vehicle that can be optioned with the highest end stuff, special order by the dealer just so they can say "oh yeah, I have ONE of those in inventory, but you need to get here ASAP, someone's about to buy it!!!1111!111!!!!!1!". My last Saturn Ion, for example, was a base model, but still had the top level stereo (with the XM receiver and antenna installed!), power windows/locks/mirrors, RKE, sunroof, etc (factory sunroof in particular was a huge WTF, I've never seen another 2 with one) - it was essentially the Level 3 with the base model upholstery and black gauges instead of white (I COULD have swapped the cluster, but I would have either needed GM Tech2 or swapped the EEPROM between clusters - the latter throwing the mileage hilariously off - and I swapped in the front seats from my wrecked Level 3 anyway). The only option it didn't have was an automatic transmission. The nice thing about the Level 2 is it had 15" tires on steelies instead of 16" on alloys - tires were SO, SO much cheaper for it. The alloys looked really good (especially for GM), but I'll take hubcaps and steelies over alloys every time. The transmission on those was surprisingly decent - Getrag F23 IIRC. It was far from refined, but it didn't go crunch unless you tried to slam it into gear. TOO BAD THE drat CLUTCH PEDAL IS PLASTIC AND THE PLUNGER SPLITS IT IN HALF, but if anyone winds up with a 05-07 Ion, I can at least dig up the p/n for a replacement insert... n0tqu1tesane posted:I looked into adding remote start to my '11 F-150 and it's just the antenna module behind the glove box and a new key. There are sellers on ebay that sell both the antenna and two new keys as a kit. If you've got two keys for the truck already, you can program the new keys and remotes yourself, otherwise you need a trip to the locksmith/dealer. Bingo! Fleet (which was mostly police cars until roughly 2012) cars didn't use any kind of electronic anti-theft - no chip in the key (though I had a local locksmith try to charge me $150 to just make a copy of the key, since they had to "special order and program it even after I told them I just wanted an "emergency key, don't give a poo poo if it starts the car")" - ACE did it for $6 after they saw the car (and saw P71 in the VIN). I got sort of lucky, in that my Crown Vic was a constable car in a very spread out county (I think the entire county has about the same population as the city I currently live in). Constable car with full dealer maintenance history, but the history never showed any transmission fluid stuff on that car (or the one I currently drive). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:06 on Apr 30, 2023 |
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Apr 30, 2023 09:32
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Be careful with the aftermarket fobs. Some of them are total dogshit. I only have the one key. I'll sort a spare out later. I don't like having only one transponder key. A holdover from the Rover days. Ford and weird optioning is nothing new. Donk was practically a loaded out XLT despite being a XL. I've stripped it back to a basic XL but that's all well and fine. Though I may put interval wipers back in it. The brightwork isn't going back on. This 550 isn't that different with sync and some of its other options I don't see in other comparable trucks. It was weird to find one, let alone a nearly-matched-set. Re: plastic pedals and clutch masters. The brick runs a 1 piece clutch hydraulic system made of plastic. I've been afraid of shattering the master when its cold out pretty much since I've owned the truck. Never happened. I sorta hosed it up by introducing air into its sealed system soon though. I'd like to replace all that with something made of metal. Someday. The firewall needs the reinforcement plate before it splits anyway. The jeep has a plastic clutch pedal. It rattles and drives me nuts. Alarbus posted:Hah, I read the turn signal bit and thought it was totally normal, and it is, because that's the BMW behavior. SO THAT'S WHERE ALL THIS CAME FROM. This has the push clip quick connect GDCS hoses too. The bs doesn't end. It never ends.
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May 1, 2023 17:25
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I've passed this bridge a ton without ever actually stopping.   Some Old-School construction going on here. Love seeing this kind of stuff though it's disappearing.  Doesn't seem like it would be up for me walking across it.  A shot of the cables. I like the metal sheaths.  Random possibly overloaded beanbody F150. It was in the same spot back in 2020 too.  It's christmas time at the LTVA and that means there's a parade again. I was invited to hangout and drink too much with my neighbors while they handed out nog' to the parade goers. I brought something extra along.   Nobody expected cookies. They were a huge hit.      Followed by a potluck where I brought Lamb Kebabs.  Another hit with no survivors. Scratch hashbrowns for the following morning's hangover.  The truck's baseline as follows. The RH headlight is out because the pigtail is loving gone.  Pigtail bought, wired in.  The power mirrors are out. The full power runs through a little lovely pcb. Doorman garbage to the rescue.  The power mirrors now work. The aftermarket brake controller is the cheapest poo poo. There's a factory one installed and hangs out on the bus.  This fucker is buried in the cargo hold somewhere. If any of you fuckers wants it, it's on the house. The upfitters did some creative wiring. I'll fix this too. There's an exposed ground.  Shrinked and wrapped.  Industrial switch that goes nowhere.  Not pictured. The broken dash vent above it is replaced. Gettin' my FORScan on.  Enabled the dpf screen and operator commanded regen.  Polished the headlights. Round one anyway.   I'm unsatisfied with the outcome. Not pictured: Scraped the damaged reflective decals off the bed. The dealer performed the following: Both cooling systems' coolant replaced. Engine oil and filter change. Both fuel filters changed. Engine Oil cooler hose changed. Brake fluid flush. Power steering system flush. Accessory drive belt replaced. "Decarbonize the intake", "Update the modules", "bumper to bumper inspection". These were found to be not true. I got the truck back with paw prints all over the hood and driver's door. Some fluid of some kind sprayed all over the black plastics making the truck a greasy mess. There's oil all over the wheels from where they oiled the lug nuts. Looks like hub failures to an idiot cop. Fine enough service I guess for Ford. I'd skin someone with a potato peeler if they did this to anything nicer.   Dually jacking plates were added to the camper to clear the wider flatbed. Just need to cut some rubber horse stall mats and it's ready for the transfer. cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 03:32 on May 3, 2023 |
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May 3, 2023 02:07
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The transfer went smooth. Entirely too smooth. But before that some details. The brick has no clutch. Honorable mentions are using the jeep's winch to pull the brick out from under the camper. There's also the 8274. However this is mostly uncontrolled and at the whim of the winch. Start and warm the truck's engine up so that it lights off quickly. Lift the camper off of the truck. Shut it down, put it in 2wd-low, 1st gear. Stand on the brakes. Hit the key. Then proceed to do a slow burnout as the engine spins up the rears while pushing the fronts. It's clear. Float it to third. Roll into the throttle and gtfo. Bring it about using the throttle to kick the rear end out. Shut it down far out of the way.  Run over to the 550 and dolly it into position. The turning radius of the new truck lent itself nicely for this. Drop the camper onto the bed with a few inches to spare between the headache rack and the camper.   Part C: Glue the horse stall mats to the camper using 3M's 90.   Drill the headache rack for tiedown points. Proceed to its first milk run.  The camper sat for one month on the nose while being tendered by the jeep. This was a good test. The new truck beats on the camper a lot less. Especially with the radius arm front axle. While driving the bunk is porpoising a lot less. Our stuff inside didn't rattle out of position by much. Where the overhang transition is located there's a pair of bulkheads. With the old truck the one under the dinette was showing some sagging. This has now closed up on the new truck. The bathroom door would sometimes stick. No longer the case now. The truck bed supports almost an additional foot of camper. The truck doesn't seem to care about the three ton load. A huge win. With the new truck comes more room. A small grill follows us to camp.  The handheld $20 amazon coffee grinder up and died. Replaced it and the coffee maker with one that I had in the bay area.  This time of year there's not a lot of PV power. With metrics I've evaluated that the coach is about 600W worth of panel shy of what our actual loads are. I ordered the 400 hour service kit for the generator when we got here. It's still not here and now the generator is starting to give us fits. A 800W external setup is ordered with a MPPT controller that'll allow us to plug up to 5kW of panel into the camper. This will bring total solar to 1700W. The bbq works alright for its first go.     The bricknose now that its unloaded can be dealt with. I've decided to at minimum throw a clutch disc at it and see if that'll stick. The problem is there's 3 different clutch discs. A neighbor loaned me a floor jack to help pull the transmission. Pulling the bolts out of the pressure plate is straight up carnage.       Reminder that this truck drove to where its parked. The transmission paid the price. This sleeve is pressed in from within the case. The throw out bearing doesn't catch on the sleeve so it should be fine.   It's getting a new clutch fork too.  A piece of angle placed on the front leaf springs supports the transmission with the skid plate till parts arrive.   Total yardsale on the bed.  There's been this unsettling feeling of dodging a bullet. Or in this case, a broken Ford. 
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May 4, 2023 18:54
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